How to Buff and Polish your Guitar's Finish

[@Guitardoode]

Tried this and was floored. Using this method got the arm sweat stain off my Les Paul I hadn't been able to buff out for decades using guitar polishes.. It looks brand new, sealed and removed every single one of the little scratches and swirls it had from the years. This doesn't work good, it works PERFECT. Do have to say though that I did take the time to go find all of the exact same products Will is using here, and followed his instruction exactly like he lays it out, you do that, and there's no way you can't do a fantastic job. Every guitar I own looks like it just rolled off the assembly line now. THANK YOU SO MUCH WILL!!! Very awesome to share your knowledge with us all and we greatly appreciate your time!

[@Aniki82]

Oh that's nice :) We can see your joy !! fountain of youth for you precious guitars ^^

[@generationomega2633]

Re: Guitardoode's - I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of the points I forget. My advice is: WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. Trust me... I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience.

[@chrislane7283]

1. Get piece of paper 2. Get o pen 3. Write down steps, pause video if you need extra time for extra little details.

[@Xxmeca421xX]

What size buffing pad? 5 or 7 inch?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

@@Xxmeca421xX i use 5" and 10 ' pads

[@leviathan_is_me]

Wish we could see more of this guitar after all is said and done. Such a beautiful job done.

[@richpeltrick1492]

I also used this method on my 30-year-old Les Paul custom today and am awestruck by how well it came out. I had to use a D/A instead and was nervous about it but I decided that needed to get done at some point in time. The final product was very good as I wiped away thirty years of arm sweat and all those tiny scratches. I may not have attacked it hard enough with the rubbing compound as I still have a couple of small hazy spots left but I'll get those on my next go-round next year. Those four compounds did the trick and did not burn through as long as the pad kept moving. I'm very happy to have found this video... as instructional as though we're students of his.

[@generationomega2633]

I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of POINTS I FORGET. My advice is, WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience. It costs money AND time. Thanks again, Will. You've already upped my game greatly

[@lucaskinney449]

Just followed your exact steps and process using the exact same products. I am absolutely amazed on how it turned out. Can't thank you enough for this video! Cheers!

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Great to hear!

[@objuan6]

Viewed this video, and applied the resulting wisdom to several different woodworking projects. Results were amazing, thanks for video, J

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

@Ken... yes, this procedure works great for any type of finish. The thing w/Nitro is, you have to wait until it cools down (after buffing out) before you wipe the finish down. The buffing pad and compound actually "melt" the top of the lacquer slightly, and when you're done with the buffer, let the finish cool down for about 5 minutes before cleaning/wiping. But, if you do this to a satin finish, you'll end up with a glossy finish .... is that what you're going for?

[@74dartman13]

I watched the whole series from beginning to end. By far the best videos on KZbin for creating a sunburst finish! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! I feel confident that I can create a quality finish on my guitar kit now. I learned so much...thanks again!☺

[@DTM-ch7jy]

Thank you. I'm currently building a Precision Guitar Kit myself and it is coming along fine. It will be that much better because of your video.

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Best of luck!

[@dustinkeller29]

Thank you. After searching for a few months for a finishing system/method that was simple and relatively inexpensive I decided to go with what you have presented in your video. I finished my first guitar with fine result. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.

[@MrScrofulous]

Really great tutorial. I just bought an LP Custom that someone has scratched all over with what looks like a kitchen scourer. I'm planning on polishing it out myself and this is exactly the information I need.

[@Webbsongs]

Thank you Sir! Been searching for this info a few days. Great video and great demonstration, all the best from old Brit rocker living in Finland.

[@mrcoan7553]

Will, I've watched and rewatched several of your videos. I so appreciate your through advice. I hope my daughter's guitar turns out halfway decent. Tomorrow I finally polish!

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

@Quad1000, Yes this works with ANY clear coat finish. The thing is, with acoustic guitars, the clear coats are much thinner typically than an electric guitar. Plus, there's a lot more "open" or exposed pore wood surfaces on an acoustic (the entire inside of the box is unsealed, unfinished wood) so you have to be careful when polishing and using wet buffing compound. Tread lightly with acoustics, but this does a great job period ...

[@syphonslaw]

Sorry, where did you get the polishing pads and where did you get the compounds?

[@XtQSushi]

***** Same Here. Does someone knows where to find those?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

+Will Kelly any good Auto Parts or Auto Paint Store will have the necessary supplies ... The polishing pads fit on to a 3/8" drill chuck, and the compounds are usually marked for relative abrasiveness ... I use "KIT" Plexiglas polish for my fine polishing, it does a fantastic job and is finish friendly ... Use one pad for each compound type, so you don't cross contaminate them with other abrasive types

[@jimdixon6307]

THANK YOU WILL!!! I have been struggling with finishes for quite a while. I'm building Latvian Kokle's (a baltic psaltry) and get 50-100 hours into something only to screw it all up with an amateur finish. You're details and step by step has given me the best results by far! One thing I'd like to add (if someone is nosing around for help with acoustic finishes), if you're lacquering raw softwood (w/o the sunburst) such as spruce, a french polish type application (piece of sponge wrapped in cheese cloth) of clear dewaxed shellac before the lacquer seems to even everything out and makes the finish even better.

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

To polish the edges of any flat sided guitar, I use the SIDE EDGE of the buffing pad, and wet/apply compound to the sides of the pad and work on the sides while the body is lying flat.

[@fugabe]

I really appreciate the time and work you put into making this video. Such a big help on my project... Thank you!!!

[@ThePreAmpChannel]

I had similar success as Guitar doode. I Have a Gibson SG that my strumming arm dulled the lacquer decade's ago. I was able to bring back the original gloss without thinning the finish to much. I used similar products but not the same brand names. I just made sure I used the same "heavy, medium,fine method" and it turned out great.

[@generationomega2633]

Well, it looks like I'm learning the hard way how important the prep and sanding is. These buff and polish videos are awesome. The smooth, mirror finish is incredible... but when I shine the light just right I can see what I think is the bad sanding technique in between the lacquer coats. Looks like I'll be covering those high gloss swirls with a satin finish. I guess that's why we work it out on an inexpensive kit, and work our way out... and up. (And I'm all ears for hot tips.) Your videos are priceless, Will. Looks like I'll be back trackin' before I get rolling on my more expensive LP Jr. Thanks again, Sean

[@CharlesNotBronson]

Thanks for this detailed guide! It's my first time to try and restore a bass. It's electronics are fine, thank God, but the way it looks now is a bit "personalized" so I'll try to fix that and reset the way it looks since it's got a new owner now. 16:46 now this makes me wonder how the pro's in this field do it. 😅 Especially since my newly acquired bass is a around 20+ years old.

[@johng2880]

I wish I could rewire my brain so that my shop was as organized as this one.....

[@C_Gu3]

This is how I like to keep my garage. Everything is well lit, organized, and I never keep anything that I'll never use. Better to throw it out rather than accumulate a bunch of junk to get in the way!

[@TomTobin67]

You should see my workshop and especially my workbench. A messy workspace is a sign of genius.

[@jefflitchfield4950]

Check out Joe Dispenza on rewiring your brain.

[@powerhouse1981]

Listen to organization hypnosis audios.

[@JazzSkyDiver]

what a beautiful sunburst you put on it ! It's rare to find sunburst on the side of the guitar but it's so preferable

[@tomk1tl39]

I'm so glad that I "accidentally" got on to this site....was trying to find some buffing compound for my new Jazzmaster paint job....this was my first paint job on a guitar body....I used nitrocellulose lacquer in "spray cans".......next time, I will grease my wallet hinges and get a good spray gun to do the painting....lesson learned. I'll got look for all those items as Stew Mac has everything on B/O and can't wait that long at "holding my breath". Fortunately, I have the old Johnson Paste Wax I used on my wooden floors so that is one item I won't need. I will be doing all the buffing/polishing by hand so this will take some time...I know, I'm just a masochist and love pain ! ! ! Thanks a lot Will for this instructive video.

[@klieglite]

thanks will, great post, very clear and well presented. will definitely try this at home!

[@bilbobaggins2083]

Nice video, great job! For old bodies I like to use the 4" pads. They allow you to work around areas that need to be taped off. Also, I use a German car product Klass Glaze as my final application. 3K grit wet, MG's cut, MG's Medium, MG's Polish, Klass All in One Cleaner wax and finally Klass Glaze. POP! I may have to work in the Kit product on my next batch.

[@Sysiphistication]

Will, Like your shop and it's organization, like your advice and products. Thanks for this knowledgeable video.

[@AussieWoodyGirl]

Just the info I've been looking for. Thanks so much

[@polishbroadcast]

Super informative. Thank you for sharing. I loved that you showed the actual process instead of describing it only.

[@st.apollonius5758]

Great videos very helpful...It's a shame though that after all those processes we never got to have a good look at the finished article.

[@fablepunk]

Yeah you're right, and for me at 13:03 it doesn't look good at all. You can still see lots of tiny holes in the finish.

[@karenammon1351]

Thank you for the informative lesson. I used Scratch Out ( plexiglass cleaner), a dual action buffer (~3500 rpm) and Chemical Guys BUFX_107_HEX5 Hex-Logic Ultra pad to remove swirls from my Martin Custom Guitar (~$10,000). And guitar now has a pristine finish. This pad works great!

[@johnnymittens77]

What a great tutorial. Excellent work Will... Very helpful.

[@adriangonciarz]

You are an awesome tutor, clear instructions to follow. Will give it a try on scratched guitar soon, maybe starting with 2000-2500 paper first

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

I'd really start with no higher than 800 grit/wet. The wet factor increases the abrasiveness so it's really the equivalent of using 600. Be very conservative and DO NOT sand edges ... wipe the surface constantly and clean the sandpaper constantly for the most professional results. Good Luck@!

[@Somchiman]

Thank you for sharing this, it is really helpful for taking care of my guitars!!!!

[@kiwibass]

Hi Will, what a great series of instruction videos - thanks for putting them "on da 'Tube"! I'm lucky to have stumbled across 'em right now, as I'm just about to do some major work on one of my basses - including a total refin. Hey, that's what I call perfect timing! :-) I also dig your way of taking your time, guiding the viewer through the individual steps in a very calm and most informative fashion. Although I've done quite a bit of guitar (re-)finishing before, I've found that there's still so much to learn, and I can hardly wait to get started with my next project. All the best & kind regards from Heidelberg, Germany

[@paulus0109]

What a good video! Just at the moment starting my own project i found your channel. This is very helpfull. Thnx ever so much.

[@dvdsmlprstylr]

your videos are incredibly helpful. watching other ones as well to get more of an idea of the sort of thing I need to do, but your's are more descriptive and thorough. thanks from leeds, uk!

[@biochemistamr]

Wetting the surface and the pad is and excellent idea , I tried it the yesterday and things went great. Thank you.

[@mpmonzon]

No sanding needed?

[@skorpian34]

My finish repair attempts need to improve. They are poly finish but I'm still going to incorporate some of your tips. I'll be watching more of your vids, nice work :)

[@engleharddinglefester4285]

Holy cow what a great series many questions answered holy cow thanks so much!

[@sicmonic]

Great video!

[@Galva101]

Very good video, but I still have two questions. How should I polish the sides of the guitar? With the same method? And if there are any curved surfaces on the front and the back (the guitar is a Strat), how are they polished properly? I mean how do I avoid "polishing away" the lacquer on top of the curve? (sorry for the bad english)

[@djpetuh]

Hi, Will! Thanks for the video. I have one question. How is it possible to buff all those hard to reach areas of the guitar? I mean the areas on the guitar sides between the horns, cutaways. Is it possible to reach there with your normal buffing pads or you should use some smaller/different shape ones? Thanks in advance.

[@kaiying74]

Awesome instructional video, thanks so much for putting this together.

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Mathius, I do show how to buff the sides, if you'll watch the video... just turn the buffing pad ON IT'S SIDE, and use the edge to buff the sides. The cutaway needs to be polished and buffed by hand, using soft cloths ... don't try to force the 5" foam pad inside the cutaway, it's too tight to fit... You can always buy smaller buffing pads w/arbors, such as those made for cleaning Auto Rims ...

[@jasoncotter3518]

Would would I need to get in the cut outs? The tools for the sides?

[@cathalwhelehan]

great breakdown of the steps and materials needed but I think you may have mixed up the pads you used on the final two steps using the drill - it looks like you picked up the pad marked "KIT" for the fine cut stage and then the fine-cut pad for the Kit plexiglass polish. Probably quite easy to do when you're distracted by making a film of yourself. Anyway, thanks for the great run down on what to do and what pitfalls to look out for - very helpful indeed.

[@costaodiego]

Hello there, nice tips, but i got some doubts, how do we do the inner side of the horn and the top of a Les Paul where some of the surfaces are uneven ?!

[@jeffparryncc1701]

I use a thing called Mr Sheen. It makes any surface very slippery. Great for getting fingerprints of black guitars.

[@dalepanasewicz5935]

You showed us how to polish the large flat surfaces of the guitar. How do you polish the edges of that guitar?

[@olddogmusic1]

Great vid Will. Off to buy my polishes now. Thanks for the tips.

[@SandersAmps]

Who knew there was so much to a good buffing? Thanks!

[@TheJosephPhillips]

A million thanks for the advice 👍👍

[@yippy327]

Great demonstration. Looking forward to trying these techniques. Only disappointing thing was.... I was looking so forward to you showing your work. Wanted to see that gleam. :-) Thanks again.

[@jasongaretthatcher]

I didn’t see you mention polishing the roundover or the sides? What do you do about that?

[@FrankGuest]

Thank you for all the tips! I'm in the process of building my first guitar. Once it is done (Hopefully in a week) I will post a video of my process. I would love a professional critique of my process to make my next project better. I have made a few mistakes so far, but I am hoping it will still turn out good. Thanks again for your help with my project!

[@EdgarasJnr1]

It's easy to keep the drill flat ant not polish on an angle with that body shape you do. But how do you polish the very very round edges of a strat?

[@geraldmoore3725]

Really great info Will. I've been using nitro for some time and you've really made it easy by showing how to keep that finish looking A1.

[@TheBinaryWolf]

My experience is that poly from Lowe's or Home Depot does not harden sufficiently to buff without leaving a haze. Can you recommend a gloss polyeurethane product that comes with a hardener?

[@spinningman326]

what size pad? also extrafine, fine, medium or coarse? Do you match the "grit" of the pad to the polish? Thank you!!

[@barchetta3]

Very informative! Quick question about level sanding...I know with the initial 800 grit, you sand until there are no more shiny spots. Any advice for how you know when you’ve sanded enough with the finer grits?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

The same answer Jonathan, no more rough spots... You can see the difference in texture between the grits, and when going to a finer grit, the texture shows against the old, rougher finish

[@barchetta3]

Ok, will take note of that. Thanks!

[@SRKanai1]

Specifically which pads would you recommend we use for the polishing/buffing? I heard you say that they're abrasive. I see an extra fine there. What are the others?

[@Clown321321]

Enjoyable content, thanks!

[@worldofameiso5491]

The only thing I would add to this is shake the bottle before you dispense the compound, apart from that I think this demo is spot on

[@David-zb8br]

If my guitar has some bare wood areas and some painted ones, should i use car polish or wood polish?

[@robchorz]

I am planning on trying this process on my Rickenbacker 4003 bass whose paint has faded over the years. I am concerned about the first part where heavy cleaner turtle wax is used. On he Turtle wax website there are postings of customer complaints that it scratched their car finish. Any advice on how to proceed to not scratch? How long should I apply it for? How hard should I press down? Thanks.

[@EmtonGuitars]

I know this is an old video but can you speak to how to do the sides of the guitar since you're using a large pad in your grill chuck

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

I use the SIDE of the buffing pad as my working surface, not the flat top. Wet and apply the buffing compound to the SIDES of the pad, and use the drill at a 90 degree angle to obtain perfect rounded contact with the sides/cutaway on the body. Be careful not to burn through the lacquer as you work...

[@KP11520]

Hi Will, Thank you for the tutorial! It helps remove the apprehension that turns into procrastination of me polishing up my older Epi Dot! Is there another video on how to get the same level of success on polishing the sides of the guitars? Thanks!

[@barryshteiman]

Hi Will, should I start the buffing after the last layer of lacquer cured ? or add a final wet sand before that? I guess the polish flatens things out anyway, but wanted to ask to make sure.

[@dmanrunning57]

I build bass guitars and basses only. They are neck through design and custom from scratch without the use of a kit. I don't like high gloss on the back of the neck but do like it on the headstock and body. What are your suggestions for blending from a high gloss area into a satin finish on the neck?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

+Darryl Betts Do all the finish in satin first, then tape off the areas that you want to keep satin, and finish the fine polishing. Reveal the satin areas by untaping the instrument ... should give you what you want ...

[@Joseguillermo1]

the alleged one is ... after polishing, the transparent one should take the corresponding hardness? or wait more time to polish?

[@mikechallgrenguitars9189]

... is this a lacquer finish - looks really good - good procedure...✈️✈️✈️

[@harrywilliamson33]

Any tips on taking out any dings on a black or maple top guitar

[@manicjamm]

Mr. Kelly, I'm doing my guitar neck, but I've seem to "RUN" into a little problem. I've seem to on my first application of lacquer all was going well till my second coat "in which I waited over a hour" but I developed two small run's going down the neck. My question is can I just wet sand it down with 600 till it is level with the rest of the coat or what? "HELP" !

[@drRomantico89]

Can I do this after wet sanding with a 2000 grit ? I have an old guitar the clear coat looks sun faded

[@silverdragon0000120]

is this good for a satin finish? i have a schecter hell raiser extreme

[@m.a.c.8366]

thanks for this vid' Will K, info is very informative...

[@stax56]

Exactly what I was looking for . Perfect explanation.

[@1958HHH]

Never seen the neck and body finished and polished before setting and gluing the neck. Would have been nice to see the neck being glued to the body after doing so. Other than that this was a nicely done how to series on spray can finishing a guitar.

[@FelipeTrotamundos]

sorry, how many days do you let the recently applied lacquer rest or dry before you can start to polish it? thanks

[@josephalaguna]

Thanks Will.

[@ronjon5386]

Are all the pads the same just using different abrasives?

[@TrungDuong1992]

One of the best and well informed video. Does this apply to Piano polish as well?

[@conway5901]

Where can I purchase these foam pads.

[@writerNB]

Interestin vid- thanx for sharing. I've restored a few guitars, but the "finishes" are a bit of a mystery. It would be nice to avoid luthier buffer wheels (that are expensive), but I do wonder what RPM your drill needs to be turning for a good buffing speed? 500 RPM? My old drill might be too fast. Ryobi Drills (as seen in the vid) can be set to 500 RPM, so that might do the job? Currently, I am restoring an old 70s acoustic. Front finish is fine, back is another story- heat damage - cracking the finish - needs to be removed, then a new finish applied- trouble is... I dont know where to start? Do I sand it out, then re-varnish, then buff it out? Which sandpaper should be used? Which varnish? Do I use varnish at all? Advice welcomed...

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

The optimal RPM for buffing depends upon what type of material you're working on... Too fast will melt/burn the finish of softer materials like lacquer, and too slow won't work well with harder materials like Poly. To remove the old finish on an acoustic, you have to know what youre working with... if it's lacquer, then you can use some Thinner and mesh pads, if it's Poly, then all bets are off ... I've had alot of success with freezing/cracking off really thick Poly finishes, but since there's no chemical that will remove it without damaging your guitar, I'd say very careful sanding if it's Poly. As far as all you other questions, watch some of my videos on "How to Spray a Sunburst Finish" and it'll answer all your questions ...

[@RobertCorrington]

Hey Will. Thanks for the video. I tried a slight variation of your technique on the back of an Epiphone Les Paul. It didn’t go well. I used Maguire’s Ultra Compound (rather than the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound) on a 6” polishing pad I got for O’Reilly’s auto parts. After ten minutes, I wiped off the excess with a 420 GSM microfiber cloth. Since some of the computer dried, I added a squirt of water which made it easier to wipe up. This did a great job of getting out the larger scratches and didn’t leave many smaller scratches, with surprised the heck out of me. Next I used Maguire’s Medium Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad which left a ton of little scratches and dimmed the finish. I expected the dimming, not the six tons of little scratches everywhere. Ten minutes later I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. Next I used Maguire’s Fine Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This didn’t seem to do much one way of the other. Next I used Scratch Out on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This brighten the finish and removed some of the smaller scratches, but the overall result was very disappointing. Next Scratch Out on a new 6” microfiber bonnet strapped to a random orbital polisher. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. The finish was noticeably brighter and many of the smaller scratches were gone. Unfortunately, many of the larger scratches left by the Medium Cut Compound remain. Any other ideas? Thanks.

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

For the larger scratches, you'll probably have to start with polishing papers, maybe around 800 grit and work your way up to 3000 grit, before you start the polishing process. Polishing alone won't take out large/deep scratches

[@GIBKEL]

I did a nitro finish over a cerused finished ash…..now I’m paralyzed by the fear of wet sanding an uneven finish….any tips. I ended up with a light nitro (13-14 light coats) and yet you still have a sense and a feel of the grain from the brush tear out in prep for grain filling. It’s beautiful but not sure of what to do now. The unevenness of the grain has me concerned I will blow through the high spots and create a strange(Bad looking) finish. Anyone out there been down this road….any tips? I had to do one of the few finishes that isn’t covered that well on YT or forums. Damn me for ever seeing a Collings!

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

the beauty of Nitro is that you can apply coats OVER and OVER ... so, start flattening the finish by light wet sanding very conservatively, then once you start getting level, spray a couple of thin "flash" coat of Nitro to even it out, and then try some light wet sanding again. Eventually the finish will flatten out, and you will NOT have burned through the clear coat ...

[@kenthompson43]

Thank you Will, your video is VERY informative :)

[@Atomic_Johnny]

I have a Tele I'd really like to do this to. How do you buff the edges and smaller areas around the body? The flat surfaces seem pretty straight forward but I'm curious about the smaller areas. By hand or smaller buffing wheel or?

[@chazzylicks488]

can i do this to my satin bc rich mockingbird to gloss it a bit? but can i use the dunlop polish and wax instead since i have them already?

[@musicadenza]

Hi Will, thanks for this very helpful video. I did follow you put a drop of something into the distilled water, but I did not catch that well. Can you please let me know what that is? A drop of soap? Or? Thanks, Tony

[@dylanlee4776]

i bought a guitar with a very poor poly coat applied over top of another very old poly coat. is there any way to just remove the top coat? i doubt they even sanded down the poly before applying this coat. but no telling how long ago that was and im scared to do anything becase i dont want to ruin the original finish if it is savable. any ideas would be great. it looks awful and a very high end guitar

[@cctn2012]

could you buff the satin finish of a lp studio using this method for a glossy shine?

[@EthanMondy]

Thanks for the video, Will.

[@brendanbehan2289]

Any ideas as to get rid of guitar haze on a 81 Yamaha 335 Super Axe, tried buffing but no joy I think its to deep,

[@fondledetesticles6021]

Great video, thank you ... :-)

[@gospelaccordingtojohn8959]

How do you polish the sides and neck?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Use the SIDE of the round pad, with compound applied, to polish the sides of the guitar. For the neck, I always just use a soft cotton cloth and rubbing compound to clean the rear of the neck.

[@gospelaccordingtojohn8959]

@@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs thanks so much

[@classicalguitarchase]

Will do you have any tips on poly finish repairs and/or polishing?

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Poly is much harder than lacquer, so it can withstand alot more sanding/abuse than lacquer. It takes twice as long to polish a Poly coating than a lacquer coat... so just keep the techniques the same, but be more aggressive on the polishing stages..

[@classicalguitarchase]

@@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs thank you so much

[@WillKellyHardKnocksGtrs]

Put one drop of common Dish Soap in the bottle, to act as a surfactant ...