How to Build a Ford 302 Small Block - Part 3: Clean, Camshaft, Crankshaft

Today we get our Ford 302 Windsor Small Block back from the machine shop! We had the crankshaft journals line honed, new camshaft bearings installed, the piston bores machined 0.030 over, and the crankshaft balanced. In this video we will be focusing on the three C's of engine building, cleaning, camshaft, and crankshaft. We also plastigauge the crankshaft bearing clearance because so many people asked about it in the other series. Thank you so much for watching! If you have any questions please leave them below.
Permatex Ultra-Slick Engine Assembly Lube: www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...
Camshaft: www.summitracing.com/parts/su...
Forged Internal Balanced Crankshaft: www.summitracing.com/parts/es...
Stroker Kit: www.summitracing.com/parts/ES...
Plastigauge: www.summitracing.com/parts/su...
Main Cap Bolts: www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...
Standard Sized Crankshaft Bearings: www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...
LS Playlist: • Building a GM 5.3L V8 ...
Instagram: / ryansgarage408
If you have a car question ask it completely free at www.2carpros.com/questions/new
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions

[@jafo4u508]

Find these videos so relaxing to watch! I'm not sure if I will build an engine or not, but I do enjoy these videos greatly!

[@davidhill7071]

I ran across your video, looking for SBF 302 builds, and I like how detailed you are. I've seen other builds but never saw detail like the main cap bolt washer with the beveled side. I'm a veteran, so attention to detail was instilled into me. Now, let me get to part 4.

[@2carpros]

Thank you so much for serving our country! I'm glad you are enjoying the build and I hope this series can help you build your very own SBF. Thanks for watching!

[@TheRaulr151]

Just finished all these steps following along here. I did have to take my cam out after I installed because I didn't notice the dowel was not installed. Press made easy work of it and back in she went. Thanks so much. Will be building my stroker following this series and some parts from Summit!

[@outsidethelines2162]

Had to come back to watch, this is sooooo good!

[@oleandreasjensen5263]

Exellent video. - and a very good teacher. Thank you so much for sharing !

[@2carpros]

You're very welcome!

[@outsidethelines2162]

So glad this series is back! Waiting for the next!

[@madrabbit9007]

Liking that Ford blue on there. Much nicer than those all black builds you did previously. Black is fine for a grocery getter but not for a hot rod.

[@2carpros]

It certainly films a whole heck of a lot better! I like the black on my big block because my Camaro is white and black. But yeah I wish I painted the LS red or purple or something. Next time! Thanks for watching!

[@sevans66]

Nice work mister!

[@2carpros]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@BuilderBroker]

These videos are phenomenal

[@outsidethelines2162]

Right?!

[@doradosleatherworks496]

Let’s go he’s backkk

[@albertgaspar627]

If you ever have to align hone the mains on a low deck Windsor, consider that the K code Challenger 289 used thicker sized 2 bolt main caps. That, along with threaded Boss 302 core plugs can add bottom end strength before you go to girdles. I'd recommend the 351W/302HO firing order on the cam, only since the non HO 302 fires both front cylinders at the same time, which can cause harmonics when you're pushing 500 hp and testing the main webs' capacity to keep the main caps from walking. I agree with a lot of your tips in this video, but I'll just remind you when you use compressed air to get rid of excess cleaning fluid, it doesn't make it disappear, it spreads dirty fluid around your engine building area. A shop vac or a cloth might be a better idea.

[@KingJT80]

yeah the firing order things may or may not affect things like the main webs in the long run. but its a free fix. but girdles dont do anything but hold whats in place after it breaks. it doesn't prevent breaking stuff. id buy PRW billet main caps and replace the middle 3 main caps before i messed with a girdle. A well known racer and so cal engine builder of fords and mustangs , ben alameda, said that about main girdles on 302s on his channel.

[@dexterbrown5850]

This is so cool. Thx

[@2carpros]

Thanks for watching Dexter!

[@Stangnotch03]

Good video

[@2carpros]

Thanks for watching!

[@danielsanchez-rubio8500]

Ur a god. This helps a lot.

[@2carpros]

You are too kind! Thanks for watching!

[@lonewolf1936]

Question. Could i use this exact stroker engine on a 69 mustang? I know its for the bronco but could i use the exact set up? The mustang is mainly for streey use. Just want some power behind it. Any info would help and be greatly appreciated

[@kailuagarage]

Looking good. Might be too late now but would be interesting to see what areas of the block were clearanced to allow the stroker crank to spin.

[@2carpros]

Thank you! You know what's funny? To my eye all of the clearance was done to let the connecting rods spin. But I will definitely show it in the next video it is awesome to see the mill work. Thanks for watching!

[@TheMotorEddy]

Take a look at 28:00 in the later video kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHqtl6xtqdiGgdU You can see the lower part of the cylinder has been clearanced for the rod bolts.

[@nickstewartroc]

Looks good, though around the 19:11 mark it looks like you shaved some bearing material with the crank?

[@2carpros]

Nah thats a bit of WD40 dripping off the crank. Thanks for watching!

[@ashturner3842]

No that is definitely metal shavings@@2carpros

[@bryanspanglerracing4574]

Do we need to apply ultra torque lube on the main bolts for the plasi gauge check?

[@j.p9935]

Hi I’m from Germany and have a Ford f100 from 1973. it’s really nice to have your videos! I want to rebuild my 302. Thank you for that! Can you tell what it cost to buy all the new parts ? Just what you spend on new parts, not the machine shop price or anything else? So I can calculate :) 😎 thanks!!

[@2carpros]

Awesome! it was probably like 7000 USD but this was a little while before inflation went nuts. Thanks for watching!

[@j.p9935]

@@2carpros oh okay! Thank you! 🙏🏻

[@billybodine4541]

Great video. I can't seem to find the link for the Summit Racing camshaft selection tool. Please help.

[@TomLevy-qr9zb]

I have a ford racing 347 that came with a 1954 Mercury Monterey. I was wondering if I can install a stock 302 Ho roller cam (.444/.444) and lifters in place of the cam and lifters that are in it now?

[@cornelio13173]

Hi everyone, I really appreciate these videos. thank you very much for making videos like this available. I am trying to build my very first engine with the help of these videos, however I need some help from you guys. So I bought a used engine that came out of a 1985 ford mustang, the engine is a 302 5.0 roller Cam and is going to be installed in my 1970 Ford F100 automatic transmission. so, I already installed the pistons that are .20 over. I need your experience on choosing the right cam, I want to go one step higher on the camshaft for better performance but using the stock heads and intake, pretty much all the stock parts. I was told to stay under 500 on the lift, and 250 on the duration with a 110 lobe separation. can you guys provide me with a link on the camshaft even a whole kit with time chain and lifters please. I will really appreciate if you can provide me some guidance or even better, a link or right numbers. thank you.

[@steveamnmn]

As counter-intuitive as this may sound, in your relatively heavy vehicle with the small displacement V8 and automatic transmission, you need low and mid range torque to enjoy your truck's performance way more than additional, high rpm horsepower. The stock, GT mustang engine makes decent torque but is horsepower-constrained by its small port heads and marginal intake system. No single component upgrade, including any camshaft suitable for this application is going to give you a significant bump in high rpm power without upgrading the whole top end of the engine, and it will also make the low and mid range softer...which will disappoint you. I'd recommend staying with the stock GT cam and adding 1.7 ratio rockers which will speed up the valve action and take you up to .472 lift. Absolutely replace your old valve springs; cheap, and will make a big difference (talk to your machinist). Save your cam money to apply towards a set of better heads (used, rebuilt GT40 or GT40P will be cheapest). Shop around for a good, used dual plane intake such as an Edlebrock Performer or equivalent. Bottom line, with this motor/vehicle combo focus on torque rather than high rpm horsepower until your budget allows for all the breathing components necessary to support the higher rpm. Free advice (fairly priced) from an old guy who's been building these engines since the 1960's.

[@robertwest3093]

Now this is the right way to clean an engine before the rebuild. What do you do with these engines when they are finished? Are you building them for yourself or customers?

[@2carpros]

So this is going in my best friend's 1981 Ford Bronco, I will be doing a series on that. Thanks for watching Robert!

[@BradM766]

Hey I can’t find that camshaft assembly lube online, and there’s no link in your bio. Any other suggestions? Or can the permatex ultra slick be used for the entire thing? Seems more like a heavy paste/grease though. What should I use?

[@fmizia1]

Hey love the videos, I’m following along as I build my 331 stroker. I had a how to question: what is something I can do when I put the crank in, and torque down to spec in sequence and it does not spin? I’ve taken it apart, re-cleaned and put back together twice and it’s not giving any spin for me? Thanks!

[@albertgaspar627]

one thing you can do, is tear regular typing paper--not the thick bond stuff used for legal work--into three strips. This paper is as thick as plastigauge once compressed, but by using three strips you can lie them in at the 10 o clock, noon and 2 pm position and clamp down the cap and see which paper strip gives the most resistance pulling out--that's where you are binding up around the perimeter of the main bearing. Otherwise you could just use a micrometer to locate too.

[@thaddeusrex1]

You talk about a cam selection tool on the Summit site, and say you’ll provide a link. I don’t see the link, and can’t find the tool on the Summit site for the life of me. Help please?

[@user-tj8oi6hx9d]

do you guys use the stock main caps for the new crank

[@michaeldowney8429]

Don’t you typically want to install all of the bearing caps and torque them down sequentially before checking the clearance with plastigauge? Not just tightening down one cap? Amazing video, incredible attention to detail. Any plans on doing an in depth video on a T-5 transmission rebuild?

[@alertgasper]

yes, it's easier to check all mains now than have to rebuild later because there was an issue that got missed. and 5.0tussin channel here has some T5 rebuild videos.

[@frankysausage395]

How many times do you have to say spaced up?

[@viprz5444]

Are there any other cams you would recommend? I have a 1972 302 block so roller cam is out of question. Im looking for a flat tappet cam, im going for gt-40 heads. Any recommendations?

[@KingJT80]

retrofit roller cam and link lifters is what you should have used

[@robertschneiderjr280]

i love the video how to build a 302 into a 347 stroker i have a 302 block out of a 1968 Galaxy i want to use the same kit for a 1971 Maverick with a 5 speed .i would like to know what set of heads would work with this kit the block i have didnt come with anything the guy i bought it from got rid of everything.

[@2carpros]

I go over and link every last thing I use in the series as it goes on including heads. I think that's the next video in the playlist. Thanks for watching Robert!

[@robertschneiderjr280]

@@2carpros yes and i have written everything down after each video.this has been an interesting series i watched all of them so far.i wont be using everything since my build is different than yours.keep up the good work and thank you.i always use Summit Racing parts.

[@TheMotorEddy]

At 33:54 you say crank end-float should be .001" to .0015", but Ford specifies 289/302/5.0 engines at .004" to .008". Where did you get your numbers from?

[@2carpros]

We like to run the endplay tighter than that. 0.008 seems really big to us. Our machine shop also confirmed 0.001 to 0.0015 is right where you want it. Thanks for watching!

[@petesell808]

I recently purchased an SBF. I have to tell you I am a GM guy so I know nothing about Fords. I am looking for the engine casting numbers and I noticed on your build it appears your ID numbers are in the same place. Mine are too rusted to read. Please help to newbie Ford guy. What possible year engine did I purchase. I have a picture of my cast number but wasn't sure how to attach.

[@dieselyeti]

What's a realistic estimate hp/tq for this motor and the stock stroke? (Given high flowing heads and the right cam of course)

[@2carpros]

Right around 380 would be my guess. Thanks for watching!

[@kevinsmith8507]

He also did not show putting a little sealer on the very back main cap like your supposed to

[@2carpros]

Sealer? Under the main cap? I put it on with the oil pan gasket but that's not in this video.

[@countryfella94]

@@2carpros I believe Kevin is referring to the dab of silicone put on the main cap where it meets the main seal

[@natchoh5point0]

Did you end up measuring for bearings clearance for the cam and the crank? Or did you just use the bearings that came in the stroker kit and let the machine shop handle the bearing clearance for the cam?

[@2carpros]

I do show the plastigauge for the crank, you can do the same for the rods. Did not measure the cam bearings the machineshop did that for me and said it was good. Thanks for watching!

[@richardvanhyning8011]

Do you just let the WD-40 kind of air dry or do you recommend drying it off with compressed air or a cloth?

[@2carpros]

I just leave it on there. You could wipe it down with a cloth, but I like to leave it wet to ensure a nice coat of WD. Thanks for watching!

[@richardvanhyning8011]

@@2carpros Thanks for making this series and for responding.

[@hunterlibby5510]

When you drop stuff off at the machine shop, did you have everything in cardboard boxes with bubble wrap to protect? I've never dealt with a machine shop before

[@2carpros]

You can if you want to, its not a bad idea. Thanks for watching!

[@Saul48]

Im Building My 302 Using Your Videos As A Guide And Just Wanted To Know Before I Start Ordering Parts, Are The Links In Your Description Parts To A Regular 302 Build Or Specific For A 347 Stroker?

[@Saul48]

Looking For The Right Camshaft & Crankshaft For My 302

[@2carpros]

The only thing that is different is the crankshaft, everything else will work with a 302. But if you do go with a stroker crank you have to tell your machine shop so they can clearance the block. Thanks for watching!

[@Saul48]

@@2carpros So I Found This Crankshaft On Summit For 302’s #ESP-103023000 Would I Get Better Results With This Or With My Stock Crank Machined? Looking For More Horsepower Sorry To Bother Its My 1st Engine Build

[@averagejoefishing5245]

@@2carpros hi! Im also building a 302... but mine is a 1995... a roller cam with Hydraulic Roller lifters... so at least i know those 2 parts do not match this video series... but as far as i know everything else should be ok. I actually ordered the cam he used and had to cancel my order after i realized that mine was a Roller. If yours has the "spider holder" in the lifter valley, then is a Roller.

[@taysonhale8389]

What camshaft bearings did you end up using? Did you just reuse the stock ones or did you have the machine shop replace them?

[@2carpros]

The machine shop replaced those for me. Unsure which brand. Thanks for watching!

[@averagejoefishing5245]

Hey man. Sorry to bother you. Got a question. If you got time. I plastigaged the crankshaft. Specs on the book say .0001 to .0015 clearance. Plastigage show .003 should I just order bigger bearings?

[@2carpros]

I'd try different bearings for sure. After that if the problem persists, I'd take it to the machine shop and explain the problem. Maybe they machined the block a little wrong. Thanks for watching!

[@averagejoefishing5245]

Thank you. I called a couple of machine shops around town and I've narrowed it down to crappie work ethics from my original machine shop. They didn't even check the crankshaft. They just polished it apparently. I ordered a set of .001 under bearings. I that don't fix it, then more machine work it is. Also, your series is what made me decide to rebuild my 95 302. I'm just glad I checked their work before I had a damaged engine in my truck.

[@donaldfischer1428]

You mentined checking the balance of the new crank. Should you also balance the dampner and flexplate attached to make sure your entire rotating assembly is all in balance?

[@2carpros]

I don't believe so due to us getting an internally balanced crankshaft. Thanks for watching!

[@JayneAmos]

It is very, very important to match the balance of your flywheel and balance of your harmonic damper to the balance of your crank (entire internal rotating assembly). If your machine shop balances your motor internally (like the one in this video), you MUST purchase a non-stock, neutral balance flywheel and damper. Otherwise, extreme vibration and engine failure will result. FYI, early 302 motors were 28.2 oz. externally balanced, and later "HO" motors were 50 oz. imbalance. Even though it is the best setup, NONE of these engines were ever internally balanced by Ford, so no OEM, internally balanced flywheels or dampers are available. No problem finding them in the aftermarket.

[@doubledenman]

Why did the main cap bolts have to be machined?

[@2carpros]

They didn't. You don't machine the bolts. We even got new ARP ones. Thanks for watching!

[@MrStag-rq1lf]

May be a dumb question, but what did you use to lube the main bolts?

[@SP-zg6lb]

I have the same question

[@KingJT80]

ARP sells it and it comes with the main bolts

[@craighansen7594]

Good video but I disagree with not checking every bearings oil clearance. Yes, well machined parts will almost always be a good fit. Just learn to check them anyway. A good example is a 340 Dodge I was building as a mild street engine. The main bearings oil clearance was just barely in stock specs but on the tight side. Higher rpm and tight mains are not a good combo. The bearings were available .001 inch over( looser) a little more money spent brought the clearance within just what it needed. Learn to check everything, it's a nice feeling when all checks ok!

[@2carpros]

Thank you for you opinion! I feel differently as I said in the video, but hey it doesn't hurt to check everything which is why I showed how to do it. Thanks for watching!

[@repurposedperformance5762]

What’s an oil gallery?

[@2carpros]

autorestorer.com/articles/is_it_an_oil_galley_or_a_gallery-1223#:~:text=the%20transport%20of%20the%20oil,that%20holds%20the%20relevant%20material. Thanks for watching!

[@colemalwitz3972]

Im 22 with a 1970 mustang… has a 302 swap in it and thinking about boring it in the future. These videos make it seem a lot less daunting (besides the scary toll it will take on my wallet)

[@2carpros]

Do it! This is perfect for you. Thanks for watching!

[@sweettooth80]

Would pb blaster be ok to?

[@2carpros]

I wouldn't. WD40 is my go to . Thanks for watching!

[@sweettooth80]

@@2carpros thank you

[@johnnyllooddte3415]

how much did your chevy engine cost

[@2carpros]

Which one? We did a big block Chevy and a LS. Thanks for watching!

[@raymondjunk6996]

interesting I will watch more later.

[@bagsy24]

I'm afraid at 19.08 you inadvertently scraped a bit off the thrust bearing putting the crank in, I don't suppose it'll hurt at all. Just me being an ahole. other wise a brilliant series, cheers.

[@2carpros]

Fair enough. Honestly the thing ran 440hp on the dyno for multiple pulls it's all good. Thanks for watching!

[@richardferguson3965]

10:25 his wife is a happy girl lol

[@2carpros]

Yes. Yes she is lol

[@youtubewatcher7329]

I am just a casual viewer and don’t really understand what is going on, what does he mean when he says “sent to the machine shop?”

[@2carpros]

So I don't do the machining. A machinist does that with really big expensive machines. It's a whole profession by itself. They resize the bores, put in new cam bearings, make sure everything is concentric, and balance the rotating assembly. Plus a dozen other things. Thanks for watching!

[@2camsam]

That is one tiny cam for a 347

[@2carpros]

Can always size up! It made really good power with it though! Thanks for watching!

[@stunnindunning]

Saucey lobes

[@Auxbeam]

Hi Do you interested in adding some high quality lighting kits for your car?We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20yrs history and we're looking for sponsorship!

[@jerrymeek2436]

SO, you trust that the bearing journals are "all the same" because they use computers.... BUT, you don't trust the balance on the crankshaft, because they use computers.... hmm..

[@soldozer]

You dont need all that gunk all over your cam lobes. That's ridiculous.

[@2carpros]

Disagree. Thanks for watching!

[@soldozer]

@@2carpros 275 million cars in the US start up multiple times a days without the cams being caked in grease, and none have an issue with it.

[@2carpros]

@@soldozer The also have already been broken in. I know this is roller but I'd much rather be safe than sorry.

[@brucetstockford7592]

@@soldozer It is required, before initial startup, for protection during break-in.

[@chadhendrix6026]

It’s not 1.5 hundred thousandths. It’s 1.5 thousandths or .0015”. Great video though.

[@BradM766]

I can tell you’re from up north because you use some of the weirdest wording to describe things… “gingerly”… “gawl”… “engine isolators” (wtf?) 😂

[@2carpros]

Born and raised in SoCal! I never thought my speech patters to be odd. Thanks for watching!

[@BradM766]

@@2carprosAll love brother, I’m just being facetious. Thanks for the vids. I’m rebuilding my first 302 for a 91 Bronco and I’m struggling. Appreciate your insight.

[@jesseduke694]

Lol! I've heard it all now! You think checking your bearing clearances are unnecessary??? Those words are only spoken by a man that will eventually be known for building engines that fail. You believe becouse they are using computers that your clearances should be assumed as safe? Obviously your not familiar with operating CNC machines & the process.

[@soldozer]

Well he's getting free parts from Summit, so he don't care. It just has to last 5 minutes.

[@2carpros]

LOL I show you how to do it and you still complain. Unreal. This is my engine building methodology I have been doing it for years and years, building dozens of motors that rip for years. You want to measure literally everything. Go for it. In my experience I have found it is often unnecessary.

[@2carpros]

@@soldozer I still have a lot of my own money into this project.