How to Build a Ford 347 342 331 306 302 5.0 SBF (Part 1)

Please Subscribe, so I can keep great videos coming your way! Fast Frank Motorsports build of a 347 stroker. Dyno graph posted at fastfrankmotorsports.com was produced with only a few hours on the engine. Numbers will improve ~20hp/20ft-lb once completely broken in, and using synthetic oil.

[@19jody72]

Fixing to build my first motor (complete motor) will be a 331 small.block ford Glad I found you videos!! THANKS!!

[@ess2586]

Thank you for doing this. As a first-time builder, I am learning a lot here.

[@fastfrankd]

Glad to hear it, happy to help!

[@richhanewald]

Agreed! I'm about to embark on my first old-school 5.0 build(Ive done plenty of modulars), and this video helped me understand some "gotchas" before they happend. Much appreciate this!

[@hectorortega9131]

The first thing you wanna do when you bring the block home from the machine shop is Wash it real good with soap and water.

[@johndoe-zb8bm]

Good video, I appreciate the info!Will be using your info for my rebuild!Thanks.

[@Treachery93]

Brilliant series! Excellent questions as well! Thank you. I learned al lot!

[@fastfrankd]

Glad it was helpful!

[@randycordes464]

Great video showing the steps to put lower end together

[@fastfrankd]

Glad you liked it

[@johnbehneman1546]

GREAT VIDEO AND EDUCATION. THANKS FOR SHARING. I LEARNED SO MUCH.

[@timsharp472]

thanks for the vids, good information. Am using your vids on my rebuild now

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks Tim, good luck!

[@19jody72]

tim sharp same here. Building my first complete motor..331

[@alertgasper]

Thanks for this video, very detailed (i agree with using threaded oil galley plugs versus press in--doesn't take long or much money to do it once and correct). I will add, tho, I like to put a block on its bellhousing area and let gravity help me drop in the camshaft before the crank gets in the way--easy for me to reach in the crankcase and guide the cam in. you can even install it dry, so you aren't pushing lube off the last cam lobes, and then get in there to grease up everything before going to the crank installation (after of course everything's been test fitted).

[@FLBuckeye]

Great video! I have watched a lot of these and most tend to not include all the details and why things are done. I hope you have thick skin because these type of videos seem to bring out the nit pickers. Keep up the good work! I hope to do one of these builds some day.

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks, will do!

[@Cobra427Veight]

Some important tips to stop people getting caught out might be handy , Like removing the pin/silicon hole up , stuck in the rear main cap for rope seals , not required for neoprene / rubber seal types .

[@mymusic684]

This is awesome fr

[@ryandaly3948]

Great video, if I could add anything to it, I would say make sure you give the block a good cleaning after coming back from the machine shop and make sure all your threads are clean and if not, run a tap down them. A lot of times we assume the blocks are just ready for assembly and in many cases they are not!

[@cesar9496]

How do you clean your block? If you don’t mind me asking. Thanks.

[@fordmands6806]

Great video's

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks!

[@jimmymccormick142]

Great video Ford powered forever baby

[@P8P89]

Currently have a 302 block being machined, should take a few weeks, in the meantime I have your videos to watch and learn! Thank you for the insight Frank!

[@fastfrankd]

No problem, good luck!

[@williamforrest4371]

Put that 302 in the junk yard GO BIG BLOCK, BIG BLOCK HAS BALLS SMALL BLOCKS GOT NOTHING

[@matrixi4i]

Awesome video . No bullshit . Just as it should be

[@fastfrankd]

Appreciate it!

[@xX_RED_Xx-bj1rn]

how much power is the engine making

[@ishorneramsey4244]

What main bearings did you get for this build?

[@johnnyjohn8073]

I noticed that your engine block has a 33 on the top towards the rear. My Ford engine block has a 35. I looked all over the Internet to see what the hell this 35 means but with no luck. Then I was on the Compcam.com website looking at some simple upgrade of timing chain & cam when I finally discovered what this 35 means. This is what the website says about engine blocks 33 like yours, and engine blocks 35 like mines. Big Block "FE," Uses "33" Prefix (Compcam.com) Ford "FE" engine family was introduced in 1952 and was available as either a 332 or 352 versions. Later the range was expanded to introduce 390 - 428 versions. They have been out of production since the mid seventies but remain popular today. These engines utilize a shaft rocker arm system and can be most easily recognized by the fact that the intake manifold is very wide and extends part way under the valve covers. Almost all of the parts in the "FE" series are used only in this engine and are not interchangeable with other engine families. Small Block Uses "31 and "35" Prefix (Compcam.com) This is the standard engine in most V8 applications. It has been around since the early 1960's and remains very popular today in many configurations. The small Block Ford engine is commonly referred to as the 5.0 engine found in the Mustang for many years. This engine has become one of the most frequently modified engines Ford has ever produced. There are a few differences in the valve train of this design, but for the most part , they are the same. One thing to remember is that the 221-302 engines have a very short deck height, requiring a short pushrod. The 351W engine, on the other hand has a tall deck and a longer pushrod. The 1985-1995 5.0 blocks differ from the earlier blocks in that the lifter bosses are taller to accommodate the hydraulic roller lifters, the base circles of the cams for these blocks are larger because of the higher position of the lifters. These engines use either a prefix '"31" (302) or a "35" (351) camshaft depending on the firing order. SVO V8 Race Engine, Uses "35" Prefix: This engine is almost always found in all out racing, and is a cross between the Windsor and Cleveland designs. It utilizes a Windsor type block and Cleveland type head. The newest of the head designs is referred to as the "Yates" head. So according to this, I have a 351W. However, according to the Summit Racing website, based on the characteristic features from the front view, I have a 302. I guess I got some more research to do, or I'll simply wait till I take my engine block to the machine shop on whether I have a 302 or a 351.

[@abdulhassan1107]

Thank you very much for the informative videos. I noticed that the part where you should install the rear main seal was missing, or did I miss it while watching?

[@fastfrankd]

I can't remember where in the process I did it on this one. Since the engine stand blocks easy access, sometimes I do it after removal, or maybe it accidentally got edited out of the vid.

[@terrycook605]

hi Frank, great videos. I learned a lot. What brand of rockers did you use on this build?

[@fastfrankd]

I believe that engine had Ford Racing 1.7's.

[@jett-rampartflyer2852]

Great informative video! I have an '88 F150 w/ speed density.. wondering if going to a 347 stroker I would need ecm programming of some sort? Heads and cam, plus the 347 cu. in. might not work well with speed density setup.

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks! Speed density algorithms rely on the ECU knowing the approximate volumetric efficiency of the engine at all RPMs and loads, which will be very different for a cammed 347 than the OEM engine. It will not be able to handle that, so ECU changes/programming will be necessary.

[@alanb2845]

Brad Perkovich usually you can convert your 88 speed density to mass air. I don’t know about the f150, but I was able to convert my 88 mustang to mass air. Just took a mass air loom and connector along with an A9L pcm.

[@Dogleg1957]

Anybody ever use a 3.5" crank in a dart block. Thinking of going with that and honda rod journals. Is this doable.... Not worried about oil Consumption. Just wondering if you get a rod that will work in that combination

[@thomasgarman7662]

What assembly lube is that?

[@anthonysuppa3075]

What was the approximate cost with the machining and components you selected?

[@19jody72]

So when you torque the main bearing caps.. Then loosen them.. Put the same bolts back in the same holes?

[@fastfrankd]

Sure

[@tajjjjat3766]

hey frank I have a 302 gonna start to rip everything apart what should I do with the block? get machine shop to clean it up hot dip? I don't know the terms , super new to rebuild ford motors , former aircraft tech for to build 331 give me some information to follow? guide of somekind

[@fastfrankd]

Standard procedure would be at least hot tank, bore it, torque plate hone it, and install new cam bearings and plugs. Can do more if block needs it.

[@garrettforchrist2700]

Great video! Just curious, can you use any year of 302 blocks to build a 347, or are there preferred years that you would want to get?

[@fastfrankd]

You can use any year for 347, but 1986 and later are roller blocks and easier to make power.

[@ws678ta]

Hello Frank, I watched all 8 videos. Great job! I have one question. What was the crankshaft end play in thousandths. I watched part 1 twice and didn't see any material removed from the sides of the thrust bearing ,#3. I set most of my engines end play at .004-.007. I usually only build the 60'-70's big three Detroit engines. Maybe specs are different on roller engines. I am about to rebuild my non-roller Ford 302 in my '55 Ford step-side truck, again. Thanks.

[@fastfrankd]

The crankshaft end play check must have slipped through the video editing cracks, sorry! I don't recall having to remove any thrust material, so I'm sure it came in at .004-.008"

[@jakeeyeington92189]

@@fastfrankd so was it 4 thou or 8 thou.was between 4 and 8 isn't an answer.did you even put a dial guage on it? Going by your answer,I think not.

[@fastfrankd]

Why is it hard for you to believe that I can't remember the dial gauge value of a single measurement on an engine I built 10 engines ago when it was in spec and no thrust material needed to be removed?

[@Headsup9550]

I have never heard of a piston ring dimple going "down". I was taught and been told many times since that the dimple is there to let you know which side of the ring goes "up", have been doing it this way for 25 years and i just verified on the Hastings website that this is in fact the correct orientation. What brand rings were you using??

[@fastfrankd]

At what time in the video do you think I say this? Piston ring go dots up. However, oil spacer rings go dimples/bumps down so they do not rotate.

[@luisrosario8709]

How can I learn how to do all this work ? I’m in process of buying a fox body but I want to get more horse power and torque maybe put turbo or supercharge im not sure but I want to learn how to build an engine.

[@GorillaCookies]

Using a torque wrench to loosen those main cap bolts or any bolt is a perfect example of what not to do with a torque wrench if accurately torqued bolts , nuts etc is what your after. Just saying

[@fastfrankd]

This is a myth. See my reply to another comment saying the same thing for my technical explanation.

[@ricktichenor5843]

How much did the machine shop charge you? What’s the name and location of the shop? Great video!

[@fastfrankd]

This engine was many engines ago, so I really don't remember... machining cost varies from engine to engine depending on core condition, intended application/HP goal, and budget.

[@drtb69]

Could or did you do video where you tap out those oil galley holes....or did you helicoil those? Thank you.b

[@fastfrankd]

Just use 1/4 npt tap until 1/4 npt plug fits to the proper depth.

[@drtb69]

@@fastfrankd thank you

[@edwarddemedina9682]

When you cleaned up the rag in the lifter bore how did you do it? Did you just have the machine shop do it?

[@fastfrankd]

rat tail file

[@WesternReloader]

Hello Frank, I’ve watched all your videos. I’m not building my 302 up to race, but I do love power and manual transmissions. My Stroker will be going in my 1980 Bronco. It won’t be a daily driver but I do want it to last as funds for me are hard to come by. So 331 or 347? Thx

[@fastfrankd]

331 is a little more reliable, less maintenance, and less work to build due to the shorter stroke, 347 will get you about 8% more torque/power for the same combo.

[@ronniehaley384]

Man I wonder if that's why they say oil leaks in the cylinder walls or gas and oil , I may have that wrong , they say they use oil bad bc the clearance neededin c wall ?

[@albertgaspar627]

Oil can leak into a cylinder, and thus not leave a puddle, either by going past the rings or thru the valve seals (if its from the valve seals, it will happen when the car sits overnight, so if you get a puff of blue smoke when it starts and then goes away as everything warms up and expands, it could be the culprit). If you don't bore with a torque plate (or at least, a large stack of washers under each head bolt torqued to spec, if you're machining some oddball engine and can't get a plate), you get bores that are out of round and don't seal. If you overbore the low deck Windsor past .04 inches, you end up with really thin cylinder walls that can distort at high RPM and lose seal. If you don't put on the rings right, of course, they'll lose seal on their own. If a fuel injector gets stuck open, the overdose of fuel can clean the cylinders dry of oil, and also cause the problem you mentioned.

[@dufus2273]

they will use oil if the bottom oil control ring goes over the piston pin hole. so have that oil control ring ABOVE the piston pin. this area is called compression height. from the center of the piston pin to the top of the piston

[@pagosplace3065]

What block did you start with? Year and model if you know please.

[@fastfrankd]

Factory 5.0 roller block, '86-'95

[@markpalmer7832]

Are all thes motors the same block?

[@fastfrankd]

This series documents building one motor, and the steps are applicable to all of the displacements listed as they utilize the same block.

[@terrelwilliams926]

Your dyne link doesn't work. What did your engine do far as hp and torque?

[@fastfrankd]

Fixed

[@hitmancw]

Did you have it balanced before assembly, or was it balanced from manufacture

[@fastfrankd]

Scat sells rotating assemblies as balanced kits

[@hitmancw]

@@fastfrankd that’s what I needed to know , having a vibration issue when I rev my 331. Was trying to figure out if that was an issue. I’ll search elsewhere for the issue. Thanks for the information

[@jasonsmith1449]

Recommend to use a rubber malot hammer I never use a hammer on the crank shaft

[@fastfrankd]

Hi Jason, thanks for your comment. V8 crankshafts are heavy, from 50-100lbs depending on exact engine platform. That amount of weight, combined with the high shear properties of engine assembly lube means substantial force is required for any movement to align the thrust bearing. Ideally, a large deadblow hammer would be used if available, but a steel hammer can be used with care without damaging the crank. A rubber mallet will just bounce off without appreciable aligning force.

[@jasonsmith1449]

fastfrankd I used a rubber mallot hammer before

[@fastfrankd]

If you feel you are getting sufficient thrust bearing seating and alignment using a rubber hammer, by all means continue your preferred method on the engines you are building. Thanks for watching!

[@notchit3542]

Do I need notches for a 331?.....and is there a secret recipe to never have a front and rear main seal leak????

[@fastfrankd]

No notches required for 331. The Ford Viton rear main seal is a nice upgrade for better hi temp resistance from rubber standard seals. The front can be sensitive to how you pound it in the timing cover, use a large enough diameter installer and keep it square. Use conventional oil for the 1st 500-1000 miles to condition the seals, or even all the time, synthetic leaks easier. Be sure to lube seals for install, ID and OD. Avoid high rpm when possible, externally balanced cranks have more flex at high rpm.

[@notchit3542]

Thank you fastfrankd. I will keep that in mind and avoid synthetic oil. My main goal is to have a 331 from my old DSS 306. Hope to achieve around 320 and 320 RWH in my 3150lb notchback, supported by 185AFR, 65mm stock Cobra, 70mm mas, 30lb injectors, & blah blah blah...mainly to have a street car that have useful hp & torque. I have seen many big horse power car in the pass, and lot's of them carries useless power for a street car. Little nerves since I'm a dummy when comes to motor. Any ways, I'm sure I will ask more questions along the way hahaha....Thank you

[@fastfrankd]

If you have a 5 speed, 320rwhp is very attainable with that combo, and you'll easily do 350+ on tq. I have a 331 dyno chart on my website for a similar combo, made 350rwhp/400rwtq with a few extra tricks. I actually still have the cam from that combo available for sale if interested. Contact me at [e-mail] for pics and details.

[@notchit3542]

Thanks I will check it out and your site.

[@MegaScott]

I just built an Eagle 331 rotating assembly with internally balanced steel Crank and H beam rods that required some clearancing. Common front seal problems stem from not centering the front cover before tightening the bolts down (on older front covers with no alignment dowels). The rear requires a bit of sealer on the back parting line of the main cap and in the split seal engines, offset the seal a little and use a tiny dab of sealer on the parting line. Also it helps to place a dab of sealer on the inside corners of the oil pan where the rubber seal meets the pan rail gasket. Lube up the front and rear seals with grease as Frank says before installing.

[@eduardogonzalez-mk8tf]

What year is the block?

[@fastfrankd]

It's a roller block, don't remember what year this one was.

[@eduardogonzalez-mk8tf]

I have a scat crankshaft 331 but it has a small flange like yours where the rear main seal goes is that a problem does it have clearance? Because they told me I probably have to take it to a machine shop and have them remove it

[@fastfrankd]

The scat 331 crank takes a 1-piece rear main seal in a 5.0 based block.

[@chucksgarage7165]

I’ve always heard you should never use a torque wrench to loosen anything. Don’t know if it’s true or not……

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks for comment! As long as you crank up the handle so it doesn't click, it's fine. I have a more detailed reply to other comments on this.

[@scootergeorge9576]

How 'bout a 221, 260...

[@dufus2273]

that's a 289 block I believe.

[@MegaScott]

The 2 bosses in the middle lifter valley for the Roller cam spider are a dead give away for a late model roller block. 289 Blocks all have "289" cast in the lifter valley.

[@strydyrhellzrydyr1345]

What .. I never heard anyone build with a piece of plastic or whatever on the bearing caps...

[@chancehackenbruch5529]

How could you tell exactly where to notch the cylinder sleeves?

[@fastfrankd]

I discuss this in the video.

[@fastfrankd]

Just to be clear, it may be in this video or Part 2 or 3.

[@allexandrecrf]

OLA, YOU SELL ENGINE V8 302 AND 347 TO SHIP TO BRAZIL? WHICH THE BOTTOM PART COMPLETE?

[@fastfrankd]

I'm sorry, I don't ship engines internationally.

[@brandonknight7240]

Who taught you sir?

[@fastfrankd]

Smokey Yunick

[@johncasor9698]

.002 on main bearings really... what is the max clearance ??? mine is back from the machine shop, crank is std size, did not need to be turned down.. so happy, it is at .001 clearance.. i think that .0025 is max clearance, at .003 oil presser from the oil pump, will shoot oil out the sides of the bearings, and flood the walls of the cylinder,, you think??? anyway on Eric the Car Guy videos. i just saw a video where he was with a engine builder he was watching the install of his engine because he still does not know how to install crank and pistons ??? but the installer was really great until i saw him install a HALF OVER SIZE ROD BEARING to make it tighter WTF ... have you ever in your life seen anyone do that... order a half size larger rod bearing and only install half of it not 2 shells which would be the Whole size larger... i was confused as i could get... i have built a engines in my life...

[@fastfrankd]

Optimal bearing clearance for a given journal diameter depends on engine application because crankshaft deflection increases with increased torque and rpm. For stock 5.0 build/street/strip .001 is good, highly modified 6000rpm stroker is .002, full race 7000rpm+ sustained is .003 and high volume pump. I have used plus size "X" bearings to achieve clearance, but only as a pair.

[@deerchaser7395]

Don't loosen a bolt with a toque wrench

[@fastfrankd]

It is perfectly safe to loosen a bolt with a torque wrench as long as the torque wrench does not click. Otherwise it would be impossible to torque a reverse threaded fastener. You can increase the torque setting of the wrench prior to loosening if required to prevent clicking on break-away torque.

[@jakeeyeington92189]

@@fastfrankd bullshit.

[@fastfrankd]

Do you not believe in the existence of reverse threaded fasteners?

[@unrulysoldier2140]

Audio gate is somewhat unpleasant. Do you really need to gate the audio. ?

[@fastfrankd]

It was an automatic internal setting on the device I was using.

[@presas95]

.

[@aclo982007]

I stopped taking this video seriously once the plastigauge came out.........

[@fastfrankd]

Thanks for your feedback. Although a dial bore gauge is considered a superior measurement method by some builders, the reality is that the overwhelming majority of hobbiests have been using plastigauge successfully for decades (which is the intended audience of this video). Personally, I have built multiple engines that have each endured 5000+ racetrack miles of operation without bearing failure. Furthermore, some of the customer engines I have rebuilt were factory assembled crate engines with failed bearings, obviously not assembled with plastigauge. Given this experience, I'm not too snobby about measurement technique.

[@abdulhassan1107]

@@fastfrankd that's right, there shouldn't be a major variation between both methods especially when you're doing a DIY project. Precision measurement tools aren't cheap and require skills to hold correctly. The pastigauge and clay or play dough should be fine for the common builder. Hell, I've seen videos of guys using feeler gauges to check piston to wall clearance but that's too much!

[@williamromero4445]

I love ford design and models. But I hate there motors. Maybe it just me but I always seem to have problems with them so what I do now is just stick a Chevy motor in them. I’m just saying. 💪