How to Build Concrete Driveways In Sections by Yourself - Keeping Things Simple

[@gregvancom]

Here's a video that will provide you with a better idea about how much concrete you might need and how to make it easier by pouring it in smaller sections. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qofbXpJ7o9h8grs

[@MikhailFromUSA]

gregvancom how do make those splitting lines? You pour the first block but when you add the next one the line won’t be there, you have to make it somehow. This is the most difficult question for me

[@haroldblanton1555]

Can you do a garage floor the same way?

[@Entrepreneurusa]

@@MikhailFromUSA Pour one section add wire mesh strip and leave it sticking out , next day remove the wood bend the wire down to prepare for the next section break the edge with a hummer to create a better bond for the next section . Ones you do it clean it well than smooth it together with a trowel. I did a 12x12 that way in 4 sections no effort what so ever 2 hours every late afternoons To avoid heat , looks great and I saved hundreds

[@TheWarySamaritan]

Enjoyed this video. I've been pouring since 1979 and my biggest pour ever was an 1100 cubic yard monolithic pour; I had 20 finishers, we started out under lights and finished off under lights. Here in California I've been making segmented pours like this for years, but when I started doing it I was a 'little guy' and had to do this because I lacked the money to hire the crew. Thank you for making this video to help out people. You shouldn't have to go broke if you're a homeowner just wanting to pour a small slab or a driveway now and then. I respect it immensely that you're trying to help people.

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for the kind comment. I worked on a project that had about 20 trucks or around 200 yards one time, but 1100, that's nuts.

[@johncraig446]

Awesome thanks

[@ajjmunoz]

Youd be surprised how little videos there are on KZbin stating you can pour in sections. I've asked professionals and others online and everyone says you can't do it and gets an attitude. Thanks for your content.

[@speedwayman100]

sure you can do it but if you're doing a big slab its alot of work even if you are making small pours but you can save money

[@Lilmiket1000]

Because people who make money from it gets really angry at anyone trying to save money or learn skills for themselves most the time. They don't realize some people just like to learn and try things on their own and that some things are just simply out of some peoples budget. Like for me, I was quoted 1700 just to frame a 9ft long wall. no drywall or anything. just the frame. I priced the lumber myself and it only came out to 50 dollars. and it will only take an hr or less to do. Everyone I tried to ask for advice on the project refused to help because they want me to pay them lol. Silly they want me to pay their whole months rent and some for 1hr of work. and I just barely make 1700 a month.

[@tarnocdoino3857]

I got into property management 14 years ago on the administrative side. I switched gears and went into the field 8 years ago. As a result of my experience, I bought a home this year. On $1500, I’ve painted, put in a new floor, new toilet, sink, tub surround, new supply plumbing and just replaced my sewer lines. I’m watching this vid to do my patio for about $200.

[@cmennenger]

I've done over 100 foot of driveway like this no issues. Mostly because I didn't have the money to do it all at once.

[@cousinvinny63]

@@Lilmiket1000 I don't mind a contractor making a living, but it's getting to the point that only the upper middle class and rich people can afford them. So basically, contractors are pricing themselves out of business....

[@dumpsterfire6351]

Hey greg! With your guidance i poured almost 6 yards of driveway extension 1 yard at a time 👌 Im a first timer and it came out great! Thanks for the videos

[@gregvancom]

Now that's awesome and glad everything worked out and you're welcome.

[@treeamigo8447]

Exactly what I needed to hear. Ive got a 20 yard driveway project. Wish me luck.

[@dumpsterfire6351]

@@treeamigo8447 you got this np 😉

[@Hunterhunter-ir9nz]

I poured a 21x21 patio years ago doing this. 9 - 7x7 pads on 6” of compacted gravel. I used bagged cement so I did a 5” thick pour. One section a day with a small mixer. I Staggered the pours to let them dry. Worked well. I don’t have the confidence to handle a truckload of concrete all at on time. So I did it this way. The hardest part was wheelbarrowing 3 truckloads of gravel over 3 days time.

[@dubeckvids3110]

Hello, I have a question for you. I am looking at doing a small concrete driveway in sections. Someone mentioned to me you can get (A Gravel and portland cement) for your concrete mix. Or is it better to get a load of concrete sand and a load of gravel plus your portland cement to make up your concrete mix

[@Hunterhunter-ir9nz]

@@dubeckvids3110 20 years ago I poured a few sections of driveway with delivered rock. You can call the gravel yard and order "60-40 mix. And then you buy the 94# bags of portland cement and mix it. But I'd only do this is you have a LARGE mixer. My father-in-law had one. Think commercial size. Otherwise I'd get a Harbor Freight mixer and buy the bags. I made mine a little thicker, 5" when I did it, 5" of cement is 40% stronger than 4" if I remember correctly. If using the premixed bags I'd added a small amount of portland cement to each mix. 1 small shovel. I used 2 - 60# bags per mix into that mixer. For a driveway I'd put down a base of 6" of crushed cement "21AA" and I'd rent a tamper from Home Depot like I did and tamp every 2" of base. You don't want all of that work/time/money wasted! Last time I saw it a few years ago, it still looked good. No cracks! You can sell the mixer after. You will not mix up a driveway in a wheelbarrow, trust me.

[@XboxSpecialist]

Dump truck load of limestone is about 700 delivered

[@michaelbeck402]

I work with a structural engineering firm. If you were to drill a few 1/2" rear dowels on each side to tie together the small slabs, they will be more resistant to moving and work as a unit.

[@oceano_drive241]

I am a contractor. This will not work, because I cannot charge you tons of money and will be out of business, lol. Great video!

[@leehancock2782]

Its a lot of work. Plenty of business 😂

[@mssburr]

Naaa there are a lot of non physical people that dont want to DIY.. So your Job is safe....lol

[@gamingexpress2549]

Haha this was funny!

[@freedomranch6094]

Nailed it

[@beneficialmusikgroup8690]

😂😂😂

[@Stuntdriver44]

Thank you so much for this video, this may be one of the greatest how-to videos on KZbin

[@gregvancom]

Glad you think so!

[@SicanguLakota4rmSouthDakota]

Best video Ive seen yet. Ive never laid concrete before but yoi definetly boosted my confidence that i can do it myself with a couple helpers with good ol’ fashion elbow grease minus no heavy machinery

[@gregvancom]

Great to hear!

[@StephenNu9]

Very good. Showing the rebar passing through the notches of the wood was a useful insight.

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful.

[@pattojumpship]

Great vid, animation and detailed explanation, I'm sure you've saved a lot of people a lot of money. Right on man. As a contractor myself, I'm amazed at the amount of contractors out there who insist on mass pouring over sectional pours. The cost in labour and multiple truck deliveries is way more on mass pours over sectional pours and if you use a fibre expansion filler in-between pads, if needed, then theres no need to cut expansion groves, saving more time and labour.

[@gregvancom]

It's hard to tell if I've saved them a lot of money or added more frustration to their life, but let's hope that I have. Good point about the control joints.

[@laughterofelijah]

This is exactly what I was hoping to find! I've been trying to work out how to pour my own patio without tearing up our yard with heavy equipment. Thanks for the thorough walk-through and diagram.

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome and glad it helped.

[@Klinginsmithj]

Did you end up pouring your patio? How did the process turn out?

[@angelonicassio7131]

Wow, I have suspected that this could be done. However, there isn’t a single video on KZbin about this, until now! Thanks so much and for all of the tips:)

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and it was actually a video suggestion from one of my viewers.

[@angelonicassio7131]

gregvancom it may have been me as I asked you about this since I couldn’t think of any reason not to do it this way. Thanks for the tip about notching the form boards for rebar. You will have saved us thousands and I am excited about this project now...

[@gregvancom]

Yes, it might've been you and it looks like a video that others appreciate also. Thanks for providing me with another video that could help those who watch it well into the future.

[@sandraanderson5114]

I have been watching a lot of videos on the topic of pouring a small foundation (I wanted to put up a shed) and your video is by far the most informative and concise video I've watched so far. Thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You are so welcome and thanks for letting me know!

[@d.kaiser2029]

Wow! I've been mulling this one over for about 24 hours now because I have a mixer, can't afford to pay for a truck (especially since I would have to pay extra for rural delivery), and I need some slabs. You just saved me thousands! Thank you!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and glad I could help.

[@d.kaiser2029]

@@gregvancom I'm struggling with the design of my current project that I need to finish before I get shoulder surgery. The southwest wall of my house needs an awning or our AZ house will be cooking this summer. I can't attach the awning to the house unless I want to pull permits. It's going to be a steel awning built over an existing wood deck. Eventually I want the deck to be a part of the awning, but I can't afford (both time-wise and financially) to do it all in one shot, especially since the deck is going to be expanded. Do you have any ideas on how to build a steel awning over an existing deck and then connecting the two or should I just leave them separate? If you're too busy to deal with this ridiculous question, I understand. Haha.

[@brooster87]

Great help. Thank you so much. I want to do a garage floor 40x30 so your image was great for 10’Sections. I have a mixer so this will make a huge difference. I wasn’t sure about the new pour and letting it dry and pouring it up against the old but this answered that very clearly.

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful!

[@slaydesantis294]

I have concrete slabs that make up my driveway. I'm going to do it a slab at a time. This video gave me the motivation to do the project! Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You can do it!

[@harrycorrea2547]

PROTECT THIS GUY AT ALL COSTS!

[@PaulBishop-wo5ck]

Thanks you made that sound simple as i will give it a try as it will be the first time i would of laid a driveway Paul from Nottingham ENGLAND UK

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome.

[@dallasbeus2117]

I poured a small patio/pad for my shed, 9' x 12' over 10 yrs ago using 3' x 3' squares and it turned out great and is still going strong. I also did a small concrete patio in 3' x 3' squares and left the pressure treated lumber in place and it also worked out really well.

[@pauljfreeman]

Did you use rebar?

[@petmot3324]

Great idea to explain the process on diagram / computer ...straight forward.👍

[@djohnson3678]

that is exactly how we do it. plus we also use metal twine like wire to tighten up the cross overs [so the rebar does not move] . awesome video !!

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for sharing, watching and commenting.

[@heroknaderi]

Wow incredible I’m pouring a slab for a 20x24 shop and will do it in sections 😎

[@thirteenfox7885]

Hey Kevin how did your pour go? I wish I could do this with my shop I'm putting up 40x50 it'd take me for ever to do it sections at a time

[@regularguy9264]

The sections can actually be poured such that they have a gap between them. This gap can then be filled with pavers. This looks great and prevents having to damage the surface of the freshly poured concrete.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent idea and I've also done that before, using bricks. It looks great also.

[@eXiteVideoMagazine]

Neal Johnsoh for sure! They do this in Japan a lot. Usually a row of red brick in between two sections.

[@SoapAcademy]

Even a strip of grass would be beautiful.

[@funkmonster]

Soap Academy even a banana Bush or a strip of canned pineapples

[@houstonfirefox]

Very informative! Thank you! Loved the animations lol

[@MechInvent]

This was a really great video. I don’t want to accept the fact I need to pay 6k for a 1k material pour. Sections are the answer !

[@gregvancom]

Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.

[@crspcritter]

Ive poured a bunch . By hand . 9’ by 16’ biggest. I was thinking 3’x 3’ sections for driveway. Many thanks . Where there’s a will ;there’s a way -😀

[@BlastReadingSeries]

My favorite part is the vapor barrier on the ground!! This is a better slab than any a big cementer could do.

[@gregvancom]

We don't use vapor barriers for driveways, but would love to hear why you might.

[@danmantyla3315]

I think I've learned more from this guy than anybody

[@rafiqa1621]

diy in sections, certainly makes alot of sence. thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.

[@choleaoum1383]

Can’t thank you enough for this video, thanks Greg.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for letting us know how much you enjoyed the video.

[@gsc01972]

I would buy and install fiber Concrete Expansion joint boards...install between slabs or against buildings, for me it's a must!! Great video on DiY..👍👍👍

[@gregvancom]

Sounds great!

[@stoneyj1a1]

Do you seperate the slabs with mesh or something?

[@gregvancom]

You can separate slabs, but it will usually be better to connect them with mesh or rebar. Provide more details if this did not answer your question.

[@cmennenger]

Great video. I've done pours like this myself.

[@gregvancom]

Definitely a good way to build things out a concrete and thanks for the kind words.

[@أبوحذيفةبنمحمد]

Thank you for your videos, I appreciate you taking your time to explain the whats and hows for DIYers like me. I have a few questions and perhaps you have already mentioned them but I have yet to find a clear answers on this anywhere online. Q1 - Should I or should I not use any expansion joints in between where my garage floor ends and this new driveway will begin from, like in between the two edges of concrete? Currently what I have is, on one edge is old concrete slab from my garage floor and the other edge is the asphalt, which is what I am planing to get rid of and have a driveway made up of concrete. Q2 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between where the entryway sidewalk ends and where the side of the driveway begins? I plan on making both on separate days. Q3 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between the side-edge of the entryway-sidewalk and the side wall of the house (concrete)? Q4 - Is it a good practice to have the expansion joints in between the sections of the driveway where the control joints are automatically being formed with this sectional approach or is it not? Because it seems, since the control joints will already be present, the expansion joints are no longer needed, like a redundancy. But then again, because these sections are being made with a time delay in between and I am also hearing from the folks at my local hardware store that I have to have an expansion joint in between two concrete slabs to help prevent damage to concrete due to expansion and contraction and that they are typically used in between concrete slabs and to separate slabs from structures. I am confuse to whether or not I should have to have the expansion joints, please help. Q5 - Lastly, how can I know the correct amount of clay/sand/gravel to lay under the driveway and under the sidewalk, like what condition of the soil sets the bar to use how much and which kind (clay/sand/gravel)? If there is any video that you may already have which mentions anything on this, please let me know. Thank you so much in advance.

[@aspensulphate]

How about doing some research instead of expecting someone to write you a book in a comment section?

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

Love it thank you! We want to make a patio but install a large and heavy pergola with solar. Thinking 4 inch thick for the patio but the anchor bolts call for six or more inches of concrete. Would I just dig down into the dirt at each corner to create enough concrete depth for my anchors? Of course being mindful of rebar placement.

[@donnyluv4235]

Very informative video. I've laid pads for monument signs so I know what will work, but this just confirmed and showed me some good tips. Thanks much.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.

[@flightmedic7169]

Thank you so much for your educational video. I want to pour cement for a basketball court for my kids and it was going to be so expensive that I’ve decided to do it myself.

[@gregvancom]

Go for and I would love to see some pictures after it's done or even during the process. You can get our email address at our website.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

I like the animation. Your notching suggestion works. As you say, pay attention to using straight lumber for form work. Laminating two 1x4s together before notching is well worth the extra effort. Apply diesel liberally. But don't get it on your re-bar.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent ideas and thanks for sharing. I like the one by four ideas and you could always use 1x4 or 1x6 that weren't straight, then snap a straight line near the edge and cut it to create a nice straight surface that can be used for a screed or the top of the form.

[@craft_tecassociatesagencie7579]

Well explained.

[@colink769]

Very educational thank you

[@7777walk]

Very nice. Great Info. Thank you, I will use your method.

[@charlene274]

Thank you for posting!!!!

[@gregvancom]

Our pleasure!

[@Freedom20244]

Do you have a Vedic on sidewalk where the garbage cans stay toward the backyard door? Nice jobs

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link to the "outdoor" section of our website that might be helpful.www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/outdoors/index.html

[@arcraider937]

If your going to try this method. Do yourself a favor and rent as big of a mixer as you can find . Not only will the pour go faster ,you'll also get better results. As the time saved mixing can be spent finishing .

[@gregvancom]

They have some big mixers out there so let's tone it down a little. Maybe rent a concrete mixer that you think will work for your job. If you're only mixing forty - 60 pound bags, then maybe a smaller mixer, but over 100, then maybe a larger one. I think what this person is suggesting brings up a good a point and thanks for sharing.

[@TOMTOM-nh3nl]

Thank You

[@mikebennett938]

This is an amazing solution, thank you for posting this. Could you use a similar solutiuon for pouring vertical walls in sections? I'm thinking you could use an almost identical method but using vertical forms. I'm guessing it would be approximately the same as lifting pre cast panels in place. I have a farm and getting any serious concreting equipment to site is logistically impossible, short of a large helicopter!

[@bwnco]

Good video.. you can even use just busted up cinder blocks to hold re bar up. Where im at its to code an everthing..

[@chuckspeer2163]

Your video is very helpful thanks

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome

[@WarriorsCollectionNetwork]

Thank you for this video. I will be doing all my concrete projects like this.

[@gregvancom]

Fantastic!

[@AtomicQuotient]

Awesome video, thanks

[@gregvancom]

Glad you liked it!

[@mediamedia2806]

Exactly what I am planning to do. I would like to add that apart from saving some money, you end up with something you know exactly how it was done... And in my experience better than what professional would do. Also, I plan to use armature as well, but also in sections. And drill edge boards to put through rebars and weld them. This is for sure slower, but fully flexible especially if you don't have exactly rectangular area.

[@edbouhl3100]

I will never be able to afford to pay someone to take as much time getting the details right as I do.

[@gemxlily2344]

Can you dry pour a driveway

[@benjamindantzie8053]

Great explanation for my DIY project. 👏👏👏

[@gregvancom]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@dbsstudent9278]

I own a mobile home park and I'm updating a driveway to concrete I may try this method! Detailed and great video. I'm a 1 person DIY on this. I'll link the pictures to you if I actually do this method

[@gregvancom]

I would love to see your pictures and thanks for watching our videos.

[@manncura]

Sorry if someone already asked this, but how long do you wait to do the next section? Are you waiting hours, a day, two days? And between the two section you just put the fresh concrete in direct contact with other slab? Thanks so much, love the graphic and animation.

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide you with an exact time, for example 24 hours or a week, but can suggest doing the next section anytime after you feel comfortable that the concrete slab is dry enough. Keep in mind that if you're pouring more than four sections, you could always pour the next section a few hours later if it wasn't located parallel to the one you recently poured. Let me know this doesn't make sense.

[@mauricioacosta7492]

have you mixed latex into any of your solution mixes?

[@bludog4657]

A gracious thank you, amazing explanation.

[@5milekings843]

Great Video Thank You

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome!

[@zhugeliang777]

what about a house slab with footings? also would I have to come back with a saw to cut joints between them? Or is the trowel enough to mark joints before the concrete dries?

[@dtm6215]

Love this video !!

[@gregvancom]

Thank you!!

[@streetgainer]

What about expansion joints?... shouldn't there be some space between the dry pads and the newly poured wet pads to accommodate the expanding of the pads against each other ?

[@gregvancom]

As far as expansion joints go, I would look around the area where you live and if everyone has expansion joints in the driveway, then I would put them in yours and if they don't, then they might not be needed.

[@tacosforus1688]

What about a slab foundation with grade beams and rebar? Does pouring it in one go or in multiple make a difference in performance of foundation?

[@brucegregory6829]

Simple calculation for concrete volume in cubic yards: The only factor to remember is .003 So { L (in feet) x W in feet x Thk in inches x .003 = Total cubic yards } A project using 80# redimix bags uses a factor of .133 So { L x W x D in inches x .133 = Total 80# bags }

[@Piccolo8291]

I plan on doing this for a foundation for a metal building. It is going to be a 40x80. Quite big but I would like to do it in sections also.

[@nestormiguecardenasa7159]

Thanks and great video step by step how do it.💪

[@gregvancom]

No problem 👍

[@gluemanred]

After notching the formwork for the rebar, you can use spray foam to seal the bottom of the notch, cutting it flush with the face of the formwork once it cures. After pouring and removing the formwork, a quick clean with a wire wheel/brush and onto the next section

[@gregvancom]

I wouldn't worry about filling the holes, because the concrete when wet would usually get stuck and stop flowing through them. It doesn't need to be a clean edge and after the forms are removed, the next batch of concrete will simply flow around the deformed area.

[@SatnamSingh-vs1fp]

It’s really help full

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for letting us know.

[@quangtran3]

1. Do you need to separate each section with some sort of material to account for expansions and contractions of the concrete? I've seen pressure treated wood being used, but I just wanted to know if this is really necessary. 2. If you have rebars going through different sections and water or oxygen seeps in and contacts the rebars, in the long term, wouldn't the rebars rust away? Potentially your whole rebar system would be eaten away by rust. Thanks for the video.

[@gregvancom]

I would simply look around your neighborhood and see if they're using any expansion materials for their joints and if so repeat the process when building your driveway. I cannot provide you with a standard answer, because I think different building methods are used around the world. As far as the rebar rusting, you're right if it's exposed to air it can deteriorate over time.

[@paularrowood5485]

There are three better options to using bare steel rebar. 1rst is epoxy coated steel rebar. 2nd is fiberglass rod rebar. 3rd is basalt (volcanic rock fiber) rebar. Both fiberglass & basalt are much lighter than steel but equal or exceed the required strength as steel reinforcement. If anybody has interest in these alternatives , there is much info on the internet about all three. @@gregvancom

[@crooxy01]

Hi Greg -- Can I break up a single control joint section into multiple pours? I've read that if control joints are too close together they will actually increase cracking and should be spaced 8 to 12 feet apart for a 4 inch slab. I'm not confident I can do a section that large by myself in one pour. Can I split an 8 x 8 section into 4 separate 4x4 pours and NOT add control joints in between them or does a single control joint section have to be the same pour? Thanks!

[@andredavis9883]

This is awesome!!

[@gregvancom]

Thanks

[@melainelee]

i will be doing a wet pour diy for a 16x12 pad ... in between slabs.. doing it this way .. will the joints be ok or will they shift???

[@davidcastle65]

Thanks this helps

[@rgenericson5361]

Perfect! Just answered all my questions! Thx!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for letting us know you liked the video.

[@aaromon43]

using this method to pour a 19x25' 6" pad for my pole barn. thanks so much!

[@gregvancom]

Excellent!

[@treasurekings5631]

How did it go?

[@ponz7989]

Do you need rebar if you are pouring a pad for a shed? My instincts say yes but I wanted to make sure.

[@rashellyohn5128]

Can you section pour a foundation for a 4 horse stable that would have to have the tensile strength for approximately 5 tons. What size should the forms be as far as thickness of the 2x4’s or 1x4’s. Thank you

[@versus023]

Great video! How would you go about pouring a slab if you have 4 walls. Exemple: you have a crawl space and you pour concrete. How do you screed ? Do you put anything between concrete and the walls ?

[@gregvancom]

I don't have a video on that yet, but put it on my list.

[@rachaeldauteuil509]

Thanks Greg! Love the animation, Great video!! Easy to understand and extremely helpful. Two thumbs up. Thanks again :)

[@gregvancom]

You're very welcome and I always enjoy hearing comments like yours.

[@michaelmilner1863]

Can u do rebar in each section alone or does the rebar need to join the sections. Doing big slab in small sections but don't want rebar laying out till who knows when I could get to next section. Thanks in advance..

[@dillardstreet432]

nice

[@jeremybaumgart]

Greg, Why wouldn't the interconnected rebar between adjacent poured pads negate the effectiveness of the expansion joints? Before seeing this, I would have assumed that each pad would have it's own independent rebar reinforcement.

[@gregvancom]

I understand exactly what you're referring to and if you wanted to keep them separate, then go for it, but the rebar connecting the slabs together will also prevent it one section from raising or lowering due to soil erosion, settlement or tree roots. Let me know if that makes sense.

[@jeremybaumgart]

@@gregvancom I see what you mean Greg. I like your videos btw. On the subject of preventing slabs shifting around, in places where tree roots are not an issue, I know of one contractor where i live (where ground freezes over a foot deep at times) who dug down and poured 4 concrete piers below the grade where his adjacent pads are going to be poured, this way when the pads lift and shift around in a freeze, they will be able to drop back to plumb once the ground thawes out again. I really liked the sound of the idea and wondered how common this process is. I would guess they leave the top of the pier just slightly above the height of the top of the gravel bed that's going to be the base for the concrete pad, then they pour the concrete pad on top of that after the piers cure. I didnt see it done myself but it seemed like a decent idea. I was thinking they could just embedd a short stainless steel bar so that it sticks up a couple inches out of the top of the pier when its cured, that way the slab has something to ride on and keep it directly in line with its pier base. The process must also involve placing a membrane (like paper or something else dissolvable) over piers before the pad is poured over them so that they will not interonnect. It would be cool if you created an illustration of this process (if you approve of the idea).

[@gregvancom]

@@jeremybaumgart I don't know if any sense, but all footings need to be poured below the frost lines in the area, to prevent them from lifting. Let me know if this makes sense and I am going to put your suggestion on my list of videos to be made in the future.

[@giuseppemanzoli-chef]

Amazing, just what I needed 👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@gregvancom]

Perfect!

[@yousifdelvalle4162]

could you make 4 separate rebar grids instead of one full one?

[@gregvancom]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYXCpXuvZ7-BrJY this should help.

[@petersamuel6597]

one of the best videos, my question how to create a slope for example on a patio back yard with sections thanks

[@gregvancom]

You would need to build the forms accordingly. Instead of the forms being level, make sure that they are sloping. Let me know if you need more information or if you're having a difficult time figuring out how to install forms so that they are draining water away from your building.

[@cmennenger]

A very typical drop of 1/4" per foot. That will shed water fine.

[@Z-Ack]

Watched a video of a guy who did a trick with the string you use to initially lay out your outline...

[@domdraper3221]

Hey thanks for the video. I have to do a retaining wall. I have the specs from an engineer for the re-bar. I am curious. Could I pour the wall up to a certain height, and then pour the rest later? I would love to do the first half meter and then slowly extend up. Will the concrete layers stick together?

[@gregvancom]

Contact the engineer for more info. They will probably want it all poured at the same time.

[@dlee0710]

My current paverstone driveway heaves due to water getting in through the joints between the stones. Wouldn't the expansion joints go all the way to the base causing heaving to occur?

[@ishowyouapple]

Absolutely excellent. Animation helps a ton too! Thank you. Could potentially save thousands, but I’m wondering why everyone tells me to pay up pros if I want it done.

[@gregvancom]

I'm with you, I like doing things myself I can and if you like doing things yourself, then why not give it a shot. The good news is that you can pour one section and if you don't like the way it turned out or it took too much effort, then you could always hire a professional. However, you're never going to know if you don't get to try.

[@AlabamaTree]

Can I lay a 16 x 16 slab in 4 sections and lay each section 1 week apart?

[@gregvancom]

I don't see why you couldn't.

[@tylerjones6039]

Can this method be done for flat work. Like doing a floor inside my shop?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, but some flat work doesn't have control joints. If you don't mind having control joints, then absolutely.

[@AniishAu]

great video, but I'm not clear how often (if at all) I need expansion joints between sections. I'm also not clear on what my options are for making those expansion joints.

[@gregvancom]

Contact your local building supply or lumber yard for those materials.

[@hippo-potamus]

Could you rebar each section independently?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, but it won't provide the same structural support.

[@melissatrapp5918]

When the concrete is done section by section like you demonstrated in this video; once the first concrete section is done, do you place a ‘form’ on the side of the already set concrete? Or does the concrete acting as the form? I'm just wondering as if you used a piece of timber as the form wouldn't it have a big gap between each section of concrete?

[@gregvancom]

The new concrete slab can be used as your form.

[@ttsstt1000]

Lovely views thanks for sharing knowledge very cool

[@gregvancom]

You're absolutely welcome and thanks for watching.

[@Lilmiket1000]

This is awesome info man thanks so much!

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome thanks for the enthusiastic comment.

[@lildeanc]

How long do you wait between each slab and letting it harden?

[@gregvancom]

I like to wait 48 hours.

[@jeffherring6279]

Ive seen an expansion material on joints before, Ive never poured concrete before, I was wondering if you could pour in sections against an already existing concrete wall like the wall of a garage in a new home. Is that expansion material needed.

[@gregvancom]

Sometime it will be required by your local building codes, but you would need to check with them to find out.

[@harishgadamsetty6368]

Great video. How long do I have to wait before I can build an outdoor kitchen. Was going to use landscape stone for counter.

[@gregvancom]

It all depends upon the concrete. I've seen workers start working the next day and some wait a few weeks. If you're not sure, wait at least a week.

[@MrCsl08]

Would cold joints be a problem later down the road? Especially in cold climates with snow?

[@gregvancom]

I would love to say no, but there could be problems with weather, soil and design that could create problems for both types of pours. Feel free to provide a list of problems and concerns and I will be glad to provide opinions.

[@UltimaStealth]

Correct me please if I am wrong. Pouring seems secondary to the digging and leveling and framing. Would it not be better to do that then just get a truck to pour? Is there a big cost savings to manual pour vs truck? Depending on drive size of course.

[@gregvancom]

I don't think you're wrong, all of it is important. You can check with your concrete supply stores for more information about pricing.

[@michaeld954]

Would this work for a garage slab

[@gregvancom]

I don't see why it wouldn't, but you might need to check with your local building department or building authorities to verify. The reason reason why I think it wouldn't be a problem would be because I've seen plenty of garage slabs cut into sections with concrete saws as a way of providing control joints.