How to Build the Kenworth W-900 Aerodyne Cnvtnl

[@icenesiswayons9962]

Your ducting did,t line up because you moved you cab and sleeper back and forth to suit the build. I built this same model and caught that error in time, left the cab where it was meant to be and adjusted the camper to fit not vis-versa. Still great work, paint, decals. My decals came out crappy!

[@RightOnReplicas]

IW, Thanks for the information! -Doug

[@nicholasgaming3832]

Right On Replicas hi

[@truckerray7533]

I had one identical to this one in high school back in the 80's accept the cab & sleeper was molded in silverish light colored gray & the decals were orange in color with black outlined pinstripes! It was a "Snap Tight" version! I painted the cab & aerodyne sleeper in a silver metallic paint! I detailed it as best as i could & turned out very nice! Thanks for sharing this video & bringing back the memeorys of my Kenworth. It was my favorite big rig model

[@RightOnReplicas]

TRay, Thanks for the wayback! -Doug

[@truckerray7533]

@@RightOnReplicas Thankyou, sir.

[@3dsmaxrocks699]

I had this same one too back in the early 80's. Mine had the Turtle Wax packet so you could wax it.

[@truckerray7533]

@@3dsmaxrocks699 Yes, so did mine. . . . .I forgot about that, lol

[@genelegate1308]

My mom found this kit at a yard sale for $5. The seller had started the frame but gave up. Good news was it appeared all parts were there, bad news was no decals or instructions. It was an interesting build and turned out great!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Gene, Congrats! It sometimes hard to assemble a large kit without the instructions. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug

[@devinrussell2372]

For the advanced modeler,the chassis and the engine can be plumbed prior to priming and painting using Plastruct styrene rod of different sizes.There are after market photoetched big rig sets available for big rig kits in this scale;being a 1:16 scale big rig,that would be a kit in of itself;$30.00 MSRP just for the 1:16 scale photoetched set for this kit.An after market air and electrical line set for the trailer hook up,is also available for around $12.00 to $16.00 MSRP.For a contest model,you would want to buy some after market hood fender mud flaps,vinyl hood latches,alcoa rims,fuel tanks and fuel tank straps,air ducts,exhaust pipes,air cleaner caps,air horns,cab clearance light bezels,smoke stacks/heat shrouds and grab handles,grille mesh,and grille that is all made out of machined and polished aluminum.I know that would be lots of work;and would probably take 2 to 3 years to complete a super detailed version of this kit,but it is totally worth it if you plan on winning first place and best in show in the big rig category at the IPMS model shows.

[@RightOnReplicas]

DR, Those are all great suggestions DR. It's also why we don't do a lot of super detailing here. If I only built one model to review every two years there would be much to talk about in between! -Doug

[@ennisanderson2719]

A really great build !!! I have the solution to getting a good flat surface to bond. What I use is a sanding board with 2-3 grits. I used a good sized piece of Plexiglas scrap I got for a $1.50US. I attached most of a sheet of 200 grit with a quarter of 100 and150 grits. As for attaching paper to Plexiglas, I'm using masking tape to hold them on. I also leave an untapped outer edge for all. If you have alignment pins or anything thing that "DOESN'T BELONG" ! For things like the fuel tanks you should a perfect seam. For something like the engine and radiator the flat faces should have some extra glue, so that when you put them together you get a nice bead of glue running completely around the parts. A few hits with your emery board and you shouldn't see a trace of a seam. I usually use a circular motion. It's perfect for taking off stock to get " that ONE PART, YOU just have to have" ! (and you don't want to build from scratch either!!! ) Something else I've found is that you're going to want to kick your own butt, too! That's because YOU didn't think to do it first ! Then you're going to be mad because you can't get along without it !

[@RightOnReplicas]

E - Those are all excellent ideas. I'm sure many of the readers here can use those ideas! -Doug

[@justt_a_catt2519]

Your truck is really great but you also do such a good job on the little tiny details on the dash board!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Thanks GV, practice makes perfect! -Doug

[@douglasbrenner9411]

The best way to address the seam on the chrome fuel tanks, is to carefully sand and polish the seam smooth, removing the least amount of chrome possible, then cover the sanded area with Bare-metal foil. The edges of the foil are barely visible, but it looks A LOT better than that unfinished seam.

[@RightOnReplicas]

DB, that's a good suggestion, thanks!

[@richardboyes792]

Great stuff I have this in the stash going to add working lights to mine and curtains and carpets also going to modify the grill and get some suitable mesh keep posting your great work

[@RightOnReplicas]

Rich - I leave seeing these kits super detailed like that. Have fun! -Doug

[@stebo59]

Great job Doug. Great video to. I have the 1/16th scale Peterbilt that I want to get started on. Thanks for the inspiration buddy.

[@RightOnReplicas]

SJ, You can do it. Just take your time and test fit everything! PS - please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers. -Doug

[@truefilm1556]

Wow! That is one sweet looking truck/tractor! Very realistic looking. Chrome parts look insanely crisp and shiny! The only thing that caught my eye were the air horns. On the original they are of course shaped and hollow inside like trumpets. Here you can see that they are just slightly hollowed out - as if they were "closed". Perhaps there is a way to make these look a little deeper inside without risk of breaking anything? Guess an oil paint wash won't look good (?) Anyway: thanks for sharing! Please keep up the great work!

[@RightOnReplicas]

TF - You are right. I think they borrowed the math data from another model. You could drill out the horns and then work a #11 hobby blade around to "ream" them out. or use a tapered Dremel bit for a better shape! -Doug

[@Dunkaroos248]

I built this kit, it's really big but comes out great if you put the time in. I was disappointed that my kit was missing the dash

[@RightOnReplicas]

MP - Sorry to hear about your missing part. You can order missing parts from Revell for current kits! -Doug

[@timothygray5776]

Doug new to you're channel really like you're videos watched this video made me pull this truck out and start assemble also just finished kw k100 cabover that you built watching that video made me want to build that one also do you know if revell is going to re release the fruehaf trailer that fits these 16 scale trucks thanx keep up great work

[@RightOnReplicas]

Tim - Thanks for following along. I've not seen any indications from Revell regarding that reissue but they're out there on the online market. They're a little pricey but it beats waiting if you need one! -Doug

[@stevencreiter5763]

Thanks for the info about the paint, will look for the Krylon Yellow

[@RightOnReplicas]

SCR, Great, I'm guessing you could find some online too! -Doug

[@MikeCindyWhite]

Lots of styrene there Doug! Nice kit, thanks for the review and well done on yours buddy!!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Thanks Mike, we be jammin' -Doug

[@charlie418791]

Nice kit,Doug ! Lots of extras.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Charlie - This kit packed tighter than a tin of sardines! -Doug

[@charlie418791]

Like Mr Chesterfield....so round,so firm,so fully packed !!

[@stanleyparham6837]

I got a new black mate ed grand hauler 1/14, so will those 1/16 fit on 1/14? I a trying to build a. front hood latches open and two side open door on my grand hauler.i buy alll metal on full of rail frame and axles and suspension and els already. now I looking for the best model

[@RightOnReplicas]

Stanley, I don't think it would fit properly at the different scale sizes. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug

[@stanleyparham6837]

@@RightOnReplicas oh ok thank

[@davethebarbarian2363]

I'm finally almost done with mine!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Dave - Way to go! -Doug

[@stevencreiter5763]

Great build, one question. What and where can I get the yellthat was used for the engine?

[@RightOnReplicas]

SCR, That was just some regilar Testors Yellow bottle paint with a touch of orange and black shot through an airbrush. Krylon sells a CAT yellow that is very close at Farm and Implement stores! -Doug

[@Jewels99687]

Another question, I know (remember) the stacks are general two piece chrome that never seems to meet up just right to look like a real round stack. Is there a way to make this seam disappear? I have tried rubber bands, filing, clamps, tape, etc....

[@RightOnReplicas]

J - Yes, you can glue the parts together and sand/fill the seams. You can then paint the parts chrome silver or send them to an elctroplater for replating. There's also Molotow chrome pens out that may work for refinishing. -Doug

[@franciswurtz2851]

I was wondering if they make trailers for this size of model truck, and wherte could you find one?

[@RightOnReplicas]

FW, I'm not aware of any. This would be a scratch build project for sure! -Doug

[@PhildeFays]

@@RightOnReplicas I built this truck long long time ago and bought a trailer for it; this was the Fruehauf flatbed trailer Monogram Kit 2503. In a shop which is closed now. Don't know if still available on the market.

[@devinrussell2372]

Those kits have been out of production for almost 30 years.If there are any unbuilt 1:16 scale trailer kits still out there,they would sell in the triple digits;$300.00 to $400.00 on websites like Ebay.But if they were to re-issue these big scale trailer kits,they would sell for about $67.00 MSRP.

[@maxbrandt6]

Impressive model at 1/16 scale, for the die-hard big rig guys for sure! I'm just curious, what primer do you like to use or recommend?

[@RightOnReplicas]

Max, primarily i use automotive primer but sometimes DupliColor spray it there's not a lot of small detail to consider! -Doug

[@alfredogontijo8044]

Que lindo,meu falecido pai era caminhoneiro, e tinha o sonho de conhecer estes caminhões clássicos americano, muito bom Doug.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Alfredo, estou surpreso que eles não sejam vistos no Brasil! -Doug

[@HungLikeScrat]

You can putty those air tanks and use a chrome paint pen to cover the putty.

[@RightOnReplicas]

BF, That's an idea! -Doug

[@norellpolk]

They made 6 trucks back in 1981 kenworth arodyne cinventional.freightliner conventional and freightliner cabover.peterbilt cabover.peterbilt 359.chevy bison.gmc general both conventional and kenworth k100 cabover and bj and the bear truck as well

[@RightOnReplicas]

NP, You'll see many of those in our Playlist "Big Rigs", thanks! PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers. -Doug

[@Jewels99687]

Couple questions, I am just getting back into models after 35-40 years and noticed that your primer paint wasn't "full" coverage. Is that ok and does it work well? Second, when gluing parts together after primer do you still need to scrape the paint clear or will the glue pass thru? I am using model master "liquid" glue with the metal tip.Also, on one of my lower skill level cars I have recently built I did wash the parts on sprue in hot water (not to hot LOL) with dawn soap, rinsed in warm water and let for several days. I then started painting thinking I was good to go but when (after a week to let paint cure well cuz I got nothing but time) I went to scrape some areas to glue and huge chunks just flaked off. What did I do wrong or any ideas of what I can do to make it better)Allen

[@RightOnReplicas]

J -All great questions. 1st Welcome back! A light coat of primer is really all that's needed but for exterior parts you want complete coverage to avoid shading differences in the final paint. You need to scrape paint and plating form parts for good banding. Sounds like there was still some water on the parts but there are a number of variables here. The type of paint and plastic can affect surface adhesion too. Were the parts primed first? Anyway, you're doing the right things - just make sure the parts are dried and there's no pockets of water that can seep out from nacelles etc.. -Doug

[@Jewels99687]

great, next is what about air brushing? I have never used an airbrush in my life. I have spray canned and liquid brush but never airbrushing. How easy/hard/recommended/type of paint (oil or water based)?

[@RightOnReplicas]

J -Airbrushing is both hard and easy. It has a learning curve and once you've mastered the basics of thinning the paint, using the right pressure and keeping the spray gun moving - it gets easy. I will have to do some demos on the subject soon. The paint used is really just any paint you've been using that is properly thinned! Thanks Doug

[@ChaseStepp7]

Where can I buy one?

[@RightOnReplicas]

Chase, These kits are now out-of-production so your best bet is to put in a saved search on eBay and wait for one to come up for sale! PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers. -Doug

[@harrypeavey8125]

surprised monogram did not include a jig frame, i have 4 of the first issue and they had jig frames

[@RightOnReplicas]

HP, that would be he!pful! -Doug

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Awesome build. Working on finishing my kw flat top. Have you built any other 16th scale builds? Keep up the awesome builds. Thanks

[@RightOnReplicas]

CH, Thanks but not many 1/16 scale kits. Those are hard to come by at a reasonable price. How many do you have? -Doug

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Right On Replicas 3 peterbilts, 5 kw's plus 1 I'm working on, 3 freuhauf trailers, a 55 bel air hardtop, a 55 belair convertible, 57 nomad and a 57 t bird. 2 57 belair hardtop in 12th scale

[@RightOnReplicas]

CH Wow, that's allot shelf space! - Doug

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Right On Replicas those all need built

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Do you have a video of your built models and stash?

[@plasticbuzzardmodelshop9715]

Nice kit if you have the space. Thanks for the review.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Tom - You're right about that! You might have to clear some knick-knacks off the shelf! -Doug

[@colinjohnston8519]

funny you should post this, I am considering the peterbuilt 1/16 truck atm as I can get it half price. it's so big though, still undecided. thanks for the review.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Colin - If you've got the space this is an IMPRESSIVE kit for your shelf! -Doug

[@gavensingh9117]

Is this a snap on or a glue on kit?

[@RightOnReplicas]

GS, It's your lucky day - everything is revealed in this tutorial video! -Doug

[@RJDCR]

wow awesome kit

[@RightOnReplicas]

Thanks Rob! -Doug

[@justt_a_catt2519]

watching your videos,my models are better than better.

[@RightOnReplicas]

GV, glad we can help!

[@thejunkman]

I build and did some heavy weathering of a variation on this kit with the flat top sleeper. It really does build up nicely. www.thejunkmanadv.com/the-junk-mans-blog/under-glass-kenworth-w900-116th-scale-model

[@RightOnReplicas]

TJM, Very nice build! -Doug

[@gruppenfuhrer45]

Watching you build would’ve been better but cool model.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Thanks for watching BB! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug

[@nathanroberts355]

My going to build a kenworth truck model a wooden one at gordonvale mens shed

[@RightOnReplicas]

Nathan, Very interesting. Thanks for the sharing and please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug

[@calvinehlert4756]

gotta laugh, there's no sleeper "escape doors" for the sleeper but steps were included! a lot of detail can be added to this unit because of its size!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Cal, could be an incredibly tight panel fit; but your probably right! -Doug

[@calvinehlert4756]

@@RightOnReplicas I retired from a Ford/Kenworth dealer after 39 yrs and the last 2 yrs I pre-delivered a little over 100 KW'S-most went to the oil field in western N Dakota! the escape doors came with or without a tinted window and were above the toolbox doors. option of one or two door's could be ordered. by the way, I was able to get a KW & Pete back when the original ones came out but messed up and passed on buying the companion flatbed trailer! I seem to remember thee was a Frieghtliner cabover too but i never saw one. you did good on the build by the way!

[@RightOnReplicas]

Cal, thanks for the information. Very interesting! -Doug

[@norellpolk]

Monograham snaptight

[@lelandfoster8910]

my step dad works at kw

[@RightOnReplicas]

Leland, That's pretty neat. I'm sure he would love to have you build a few KW's for him! -Doug

[@fredericia01]

Wrong colors, you painted the wiper knobs red and yellow, they should be alu, you painted the brake knobs black, not correct, from left to right they should be red, yellow and blue.

[@RightOnReplicas]

Fred, thanks for the detailing info! -Doug

[@fredericia01]

You are welcome, when detailing dash on semi truck, the knob shaped like a stopsign is allways red, the square button is yellow, and the round one is blue, kind regards from an old trucker :-) @@RightOnReplicas

[@RightOnReplicas]

Fred, Thanks again, great info! -Doug

[@jodilynn7928]

who are these idiots, who design the final chrome parts, chrome the air cleaners, power steering res. lubeafinder not sure how to spell it lol. i would love to work there just to say what to chrome & what not to chrome, just sayin.

[@RightOnReplicas]

JL, I'm pretty sure it all comes down to cost! -Doug