How to change model airplane engine bearings (part 1 of 2)

[@paulshuttleworth7793]

This video maybe 11yrs old but just followed it to successfully strip an OS70FS I acquired on the cheap. Thank you for the content.

[@extra330sc]

Great two part video. I’ve been flying RC for 30 years but never had a need to do this level of engine work on any of the engines I’ve owned. Your process and instructions were great. I replaced both bearings in my OS 46AX after 10 years. Thanks a lot.

[@chevy362000]

How do you know when a baring is going bad? I have a OS 46AX and I can hear a metallic sound or mabye more like the engine is dry. What surprises me is that this engine has only a gallon of fuel and is 3 years old. I didnt use it for 2 years and it was always kept inside away from the elements.

[@extra330sc]

chevy362000 , glow fuel is hygroscopic (it attracts water vapor from the air). The water gets into the bearings and results in rust. You can feel the roughness in the bearings when you turn the shaft. You can hear it too. Your bearings are probably rusting due storage. The single best way to to significantly reduce the effects I described is to use a light machine oil after you’ve flown for the day. First, drain the tank, then start the engine, allowing it to run all the fuel remaining in the fuel line and engine. Open the throttle and squirt a few drops of oil in the carburetor. Spin the engine with your starter for a couple of seconds then close the throttle. You’re done. NOTE - when sucking the oil into the engine, it MAY run for a few seconds even with the glow igniter disconnected. Be prepared. I’ve been using Marvel Mystery Oil in all my glow engines for years and rarely have any trouble. I ran my O.S. 46 for years before they finally gave up.

[@chevy362000]

@@extra330sc I do appreciate your quick response. I am going to follow your advice. Marvel Mistery Oil I never heard I could use it for that too and I love how it smells. Thanks for all the info you have shared today. Alberto

[@extra330sc]

chevy362000 , no problem. Glad to help. If you buy a pint of the oil that will last you for quite a long time. The tiny bottles the hobby outlets sell is fine but it’s overpriced. Check it out on Google or Amazon.

[@chevy362000]

@@extra330sc One last question putting bearings aside. What are the signs of an engine going bad besides low compression? and what is your oldest engine still in service? Thank you in advance.

[@juliecheal5691]

A friend of mine suggested that the rear bearing on my SC61 needed replacing (he recognized this from a 'humming' sound, and it did sound odd). I thought I would never do that as I had no idea where to start. This video was fantastic in giving me confidence to open the back and have a look. A few minutes later I had the blow torch out and set to the SC61. 2 days later, having received a new rear bearing in the post, it is replaced and running great. Without this video I would not have had the confidence to even start this, so thank you very much.

[@xjet]

Julie Cheal You're welcome. You might find some of the stuff on my RCModelReviews channel to be useful as well.

[@lissethdiaz9525]

xjet ..hi !! I have a biplane nitro engine but the engine stuck due to lack of use .. can you tell me what can I use to wash the parts ??? Gasoline or other liquid ?? Thanks!

[@deweylee2449]

Lisseth the best thing to use is rubbing alcohol or plane fuel will work. It is never a good idea to us gasoline.

[@seanjensen7335]

Really appreciate the video! I have a couple old TT pro .46’s that have been in storage for a long time. Both were in need of an overhaul, so it was great to have a how to video!

[@billtoppa]

Great information. I replaced the bearings in my Saito 180 and had no luck getting the rear bearing out by heating. I devised a system to remove that suborn SOB. I will post a video soon.

[@dennyhoffman5587]

GREAT VIDEOS !! VERY HELPFUL !! I have a 28 yr old Shuttle RC Helicopter with an OS 28F engine. I haven't flown this for at least 15-20 yrs! So I cleaned it up to put on eBay... and of course, the engine was froze up tighter than a drum! I'm a good wrench man... I've built 1000 hp drag cars from scratch, and rebuilt JD tractors as well! So I was not bashful about jumping right in on this new project! I found & watched both your videos a couple of times, got the tricks down and had mine apart in no time!! The oven at 300 for 10 min worked great for me. Found that the handle of a kitchen wooden spoon was perfect for knocking the front bearing out! The main bearing is rusted & pitted and the front one is "just ok". Everything else seems to be good. Now I just hope I can find replacement bearings! Your videos saved me countless hours of digging around for info and probably saved the old 28F a trip to the scrap drum!! Thanks for all your time putting these together and sharing them with everybody ! Very well done! Denny H / Omaha, NE.

[@andrewjackson7476]

28 year old Hirobo Shuttle? Shuttle's not THAT old..? wait I guess I AM... I would expect that, if or when you get it flying, that you put up the vid, and share. I would do it myself; except that I got so frustrated, and just sold the heli, and kept the tranny.

[@Balenzo]

Priceless. Your video has just helped me to remove the liner from my OS 50 SX-H that was so tight. Without it it well who knows what landfill it would have ended up in. Just doing the bearings now. Thanks again.

[@angargoy7181]

Very well for the explanation now I can change the bearings without problems. Thank you

[@zero00tolerance]

This is sooo much work ! motor is the future of RC

[@wg1997fly]

Thank ya xjet. Your video helped me a lot when I took the barrings out of my supertigre st 25.

[@crossthreadaeroindustries8554]

Great help, thanks for the share, used this info, today, to rehab a Fox .35 CL engine after plugging it into the mud.

[@garysamolin1812]

Excellent step by step video. Clear, methodical and precise. Thank you very much.

[@robertsalser848]

Guy's, Go get an old crock pot with 50/50 antifreeze and water mix to clean all the parts after it's apart, all the black on the cylinder will come off with an old tooth brush. About a day or two in the bath usually does it, polish the outside of the cylinder with a fine scotch bright pad or steel wool, you have to clean and blow it dry anyway, this just helps putting it back together easily. GO get you a small puller at the auto parts store, usually used for pulling battery post, under ten bucks, to pull the drive washer, put a little tension on it then the heat. If you will oil your engines with ATF after you fly, you will go years without replacing bearings, especially on 4 stroke engines. ATF has the most rust inhibitors of anything on the market, you just cannot have rust in an automatic transmission, I have torn down transmissions that were in a junk yard sitting outside with the pan full of water, and was still able to use the hard parts inside. This is a good video, I usually use a magic marker on the rod, just wipe it clean, the rods hardly ever get dirty. Have fun

[@MmFord45]

I gotta do this to an engine I recieved from my uncle to make it operable again. this will be my frist time, thanx for doing a detailrd thorough video.

[@873Mike]

Thanks for a great video. I just finished replacing the bearings in a well used Saito 125 - 4 stroke. I have to say though that my experience was not nearly as smooth as yours. Everything is easy except getting the crankshaft and bearings out. Getting the new bearings in was a bit hard but not nearly as bad. To get the crankshaft out I eventually went to the hardware store and put it in their biggest vise on display and it took all my strength before it finally started to budge a little (cont.)

[@thomasmann9175]

many thanks for these great vids. Taught me to do the job, gave me confidence, saved me money, and greatly amused my kids when I told them to get dinner out of the oven :)

[@spaccolasfalto]

thank you! excellent video that taught me how to remove the bearings thank you very much! I'm Italian grazie! ottimo video che mi ha insegnato ad estrarre i cuscinetti grazie mille!

[@SANDSCORCHER]

Excellent presentation. Many thanks for such an informative lesson Sir 🙂👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@e-rj8984]

Perfect instructions 👍🌷

[@rajasohail8401]

Great sir, bundle of thanks for this effort

[@pixuma]

wow! best vid on this subject by far!!

[@julianneale6128]

380 hours, wow! I have an old Thunder Tiger GP-42 I bought new in around 2000. It used to run very well and still has excellent compression. The issue I had was that I ran it on fuel with synthetic oil, which wasn't good for lubricating the brass crankshaft bearing. A little play in the crank which promoted an air leak eventually made it run poorly and I was always dead sticking it in...

[@rtoebak76]

Got the bearings out. Thanx Bruce :-) 🇳🇱

[@turtlemann14]

you should keep the nut on the crank, it works well to save the threads

[@VintageTechFan]

4:50 .. that method is fine only if you are going to replace the bearings anyway, because they are definitely toast after doing that.

[@markclegg9906]

great vid, just what i needed to know. thamks

[@jorgenelsonfelix52]

Hello very well excellent. Don't have any video with some engine with hubs . Argentina . 👋😷

[@MartinVenter371]

Best video ever!!

[@873Mike]

Continued: I was then able to finish it off at home. I was lucky not to crack the case. When you reassemble a saito, you just need to have the piston at top dead center and have the mark on the timing wheel at 6 oclock and then your timing will be correct (its in the engine manual). In retrospect, this bearing replacement was maybe not worth the 5 hours it took me, but it was interesting to see how 4 stroke glow engines work. Would be easier on a newer engine.

[@user3141592635]

Seventy-one people does not like reason. I prefer to use a gear-puller to get the prop-drive off the shaft, maybe with some slight heat. Reason for this, is that I might want to save one or both bearings afterall. I Do not like to knack them if I can avoid.

[@markymark3075]

That's great thanks, good for os ax max

[@Triple_J.1]

Came here to see how to remove the rear ball bearing race on a Thunder Tiger .46! Grey info. The cylinder liner was nice and lose in the block, the piston is still tight at TDC. But the carburetor was stuck solid. Ended up soaking the whole thing in 50/50 Ethelen Glycol with the carb and o-ring still attached, then it came off slick.

[@Idekubagus]

very good explanation Thx sir

[@72secondprize]

Good video. Really helpful.

[@slimjam44]

Great videos Xjet! John Wells Overland Park, KS USA

[@MrMoterKid]

I think it does, since I took that old mcculloch engine apart and its very similar to taking apart a model airplane engine.

[@orange70383]

My dad has several of those style engines he bought in the 1940's, I need to find them if he hasn't tossed them in the trash long ago. He had many new wooden props from the 40's also.

[@AzidChannelExplore]

how to increase engine speed, is there anything that needs to be changed?

[@TheAndrewFernandez]

Thanks for the excellent video. Just one question. What are the tell tale signs of a worn bearing? Cheers

[@TheAndrewFernandez]

Just put my Saito 72 to that test and it seems to have passed. Many thanks.

[@BlažPetrinčič]

Nice work....

[@francoisclarinval5371]

Merci thanks from Belgium. I have just repair my engine

[@mattis09]

thx for the video!!

[@MrHector0309]

Does this work for bigger engines such as a dirt bike 2 stroke engine

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

does this procedure work the same for a 2 stroke weedeater engine??

[@Jer0tube]

I tried dismantling my OS 46 AX II engine and could not get the con rod off of the crank with cylinder liner removed and back plate removed, the piston and con rod no matter what position I had the piston at would not clear the crank, any suggestions?

[@Denso2131]

Sir, Im new to this hobby and its my first time to change my engines piston and piston ring. Can you do a video on how to change the piston and put a piston ring, connecting rod, pin. Pls help. Tnx

[@kokman62]

Hi Bruce hope you can help me I'm looking at a blue max,plane , no motor just found a motor market place its a Os max 40 la as recommended a 40 to a 60 for the plane , what are this motor like or have you have any recommendation cheers Robbie

[@xjet]

The 40la is a pretty weak motor for a 40-size. Given that the minimum size for that plane is a 40 I'd try to find something a little more grunty. the 40la is also a very light motor -- just over half the weight of a normal 60-sized engine so you might also have a balance issue.

[@kokman62]

@@xjet Thanks for that as i,m new to this fun, that helps me a lot

[@jimvanscoyk414]

The front bearing procedure is wrong. You either need a bearing with just 1 shield or get a sealed bearing and remove the shield on one side. It is very easy to do. The new bearing with be open to lubrication on the inside and shielded from leaking on the outside. If you notice there is a notch in the crankcase in the front that allows lubrication to get into the bearing. Leaving it sealed keeps that from happening which will lead to wearing out the bearing prematurely.

[@BW5659]

On a ringed engine what do you use for a ring compressor to re-install the piston?

[@xjet]

The cylinder sleeve of most ringed engines has a chamfer at the bottom so that if you carefully lower the sleeve onto the piston (using lots of oil), that chamfer will automatically compress the ring as it goes into the bore. You just have to make sure that the ring-gap is lined up with the little peg in the ring-groove or it won't fit.

[@BW5659]

***** Thanks, works great on my Super Tigre 61's. Now you wouldn't have any idea where to purchase a piston and ring for a OS 1.08 since I broke the piston and ring not knowing how to re-insert.

[@kjellringstrom6217]

A good idea would be to leave it soaking in same fuel it have run on, usually ethanol for a day. Using force to pull apart is not wise.

[@shizlnit]

would this be the same for RC car engines?

[@mattpreece4092]

Hello, Did you ever fly your new KPY 10cc in a plane?

[@kiazzamassaequipe199]

Friend need your help! I got a motor like the one's dismantling, but this engine is stopped long ago ... Following his tips to dismantle the engine, I could do just as you do! When it comes on the heat and make the central axis to change the bearings, I think the engine is stopped the long axis did not move with the beating I gave. I warmed the play and was unable success! What do you advise me to do ?? GRATEFUL

[@andrewjackson7476]

Try putting your engine in your freezer. Wait until engine has completely frozen. An hour or two, or even overnight. Now keeping the engine as cold as possible, using a mini torch, heat only surrounding of the bearing. The idea of this is that freezing the engine makes every part contract. Then quickly applying heat to the surrounding are of the bearing. This will expand, what is holding the bearing in. Think;; maximum temp differential. The bearing might just DROP out, using this method. To thoroughly de-gum my engines, I heat a pot of antifreeze/radiator fluid over a stove top (low heat) and dip all the parts in. This is actually is a lot less caustic to the engine parts; and why wouldn't it be? Your car has it in, for years at a time, without having the radiator being eaten up, from inside out. If I feel that the new bearings are well made, and do not contain any machined shavings, I do nothing else prior to install. If I see shavings, I dip them as well and lube them afterwards. I don't know what has made your engine stop working, way back.. but if you can get your hands on a new sleeve, I would replace the old one. If you NEVER EVER want to replace the sleeve again, and want your engine to run with brand-new cond. of 99.99% of new compression/performance, you should preheat the engine head EVERYTIME prior to starting. This is a lots of work, and forces you to carry extra equipment, but when you realize that all ringless ABC engines start to loose compression(performance) IMMEDIATELY, if not preheated to prevent parts scraping pinch, during startup, you just may adopt this method. After several flights, your engine compression is similar to a 100,000 mile car engine. I use a mini torch or a heat gun on med high setting. I will be ordering a engine warmer to see if it gets hot enough to get the job done. www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__51642__TrackStar_12_volt_DC_Nitro_Engine_Heater.html?strSearch=engine%20heater

[@kiazzamassaequipe199]

YEAHHH!!!! OBRIGADO AMIGO DEU CERTO TANK'S MAN... CONSEGUI RETIRAR OS ROLAMENTOS!

[@andrewjackson7476]

Vinicius Henrique Porto Silva Very Nice..

[@guillermoderivas5494]

can i reuse the bearings if they still good? cuz the head of my engine is leaking for the muffler, so can i replace only the engine body and reuse the same old good bearings?

[@xjet]

So long as you do not damage the bearings when removing them then you can re-use the bearings but since they are so cheap, it would still be a good idea to buy new ones.

[@guillermoderivas5494]

yeap u right i should put the new ones!

[@gezimbuzo6803]

a seks

[@jonajonesyboy]

That is an excellent and very informative video, many thanks , but why have 10 idiots put dislikes ??

[@johnhess351]

Why do my connecting rods never come off?

[@mrnick8171]

Hey is dat engine called a 21 fsr abc i have one in my kyosho land jump

[@1430sl]

what ist the name of the oil? thanzs!

[@PietriMatteo]

I tried, but the tree doesn't move. I warmed up well with the thematic phono, but it doesn't move, I'm afraid of damaging the engine

[@sideswiped6874]

boy I am glad I watched this video, I sure would not let this guy work on my engines! I'm surprised he didn't use a bigger hammer

[@JamesMorlan]

Thanks for the info. I assume "aluminium" is a regional pronunciation for aluminum? Just want to make sure it's not something completely different. I would not even tap on the front bearing directly with a hammer - I would place your aluminum block flat on top and tap on that - no sense risking the engine at any time. :)

[@todd812]

why don’t you freeze the bearings and use cold spray on the crank from the inside

[@irishsiri100]

The inexperienced modeller could easily do some damage with the blowtorch. I find that dunking the crankcase in boiling water for 20 or 30 seconds usually heats it enough to do the trick.

[@canadianmaple09]

It's spelled and pronounced "aluminum" in Canada as well.

[@vjjames4567]

where do you get your parts?

[@sed6]

Try boca bearings. You can search by engine for the correct set. They usually offer several options, go with stainless.

[@MrMoterKid]

No problem!! :-)

[@mikkei3532]

This in not good way of mounting bearing in 9:40 with hammer.... You shoud choose a cold /hot metode. Heat a aluminium and mount in a steel frozen bearings .

[@kokman62]

Vintage Super Tigre 60 Blue Head model engine with muffler S/H on ebay $155.00 + 54.00 freight is this a good motor ,thanks

[@xjet]

I'm not a great fan of the SuperTigre engines. Look for a Thunder Tiger 46Pro, ASP46 or an OS55AX if you want a good reliable, powerful engine.

[@kokman62]

@@xjet thanks for that. I have been lookup engines, have you heard of saito FG 11 motors and i see the os motor is popular

[@archienepomuceno76]

how to check the engine pinch of that?

[@andrewjackson7476]

If you have the head off the engine block already, rotate the crank and you should see that the piston should have pushed the sleeve out of the block at least a 1/3 of it's length. When your engine is assembled on a plane, just remove or turn out the glow plug, so that the air can escape. Then turn over the propeller and feel for the pinch. You should be able to feel a solid resistance of the pinch, for at least 1/6 of the rotation. If not, you are loosing compression big time.

[@DatBlueHusky]

i see some blow by on the piston

[@beachboardfan9544]

Why no piston rings?

[@xjet]

Most small RC engines don't have rings... they often use an ABC setup (Aluminum piston running in a Brass liner that is Chrome plated). This produces less friction and significantly reduces the risk of seizure in the event of a hot-run.

[@beachboardfan9544]

@@xjet Do they just bleed chamber pressure to the crank case then, or is the clearance between the piston and sleeve so tight that its a non issue?

[@xjet]

@@beachboardfan9544 The piston/bore seal is actually better than when using rings because there is no ring-gap to allow gas through.

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

oh ok thanks !!!!!

[@brando555555]

Did he say 380 hours on that engine??? Wow that's a lot. I'm used to .21 offroad engines that run for maybe 8-10 gallons if you're lucky, that's probably 40-50 hours of runtime at the most.

[@benfrenchh1]

Me too. Cannot get con rod off

[@wagnersantos4651]

quanto gusta um motor deste pequeno

[@calvinbagby3773]

I.have a.old o.s.maxsx.motor. 32.can.any.bye. Tell me. About it

[@TheRumbles13]

Are you having a stroke mate

[@claytonjester]

380 hours, wow!!!!!!!!!!!! good engine though

[@Techdeckmaster261]

Can u send me old front bearings

[@meltechanoop]

haiii nice

[@giffy5775]

SO many mistakes in this video.

[@angelreading5098]

How can thee be mistakes on something so simple as warming up components to remove them ? it would be more constructive if you to tell us what you are on about ??

[@evanleebodies]

Any thoughts on replacing the standard bearings with ceramics?

[@xjet]

A few people have tried and they've usually gone back to steel bearings after a while. Ceramic bearings are a little more fragile (when subjected to shock loads) and really don't like any form of dirt (which is hard to avoid with an RC engine because they don't have air-filters). Far better to use a good quality steel bearing with phenolic cage and just change them when/if they wear or corrode.

[@irishsiri100]

The inexperienced modeller could easily do some damage with the blowtorch. I find that dunking the crankcase in boiling water for 20 or 30 seconds usually heats it enough to do the trick.