How to: Change the tubes on Tubemeister 36 - Hughes and Kettner

[@effyiew7318]

Man thanks so much for this. I need to change my tubes in my GrandMeister 36 and had no idea where even to start unscrewing

[@rolandvandenbossche9170]

Hi, thank you for this very explanatory video!

[@promixing7714]

Hi RJ, I can't thank you enough for all the time it took to document this, edit and then upload it to share with us I absolutely love my H&K36 and I'm saving this for the time I will need to re-tube it. Thanks again my friend.

[@TdawggE]

One of the best video demo's I've seen on YT - thanks for taking the time to add the detail provided in such a clear manner. I used JJ 12AX7 pre amp tubes and JJ EL84's and these provided an improvement over the Chinese tubes provided by H&K. Would like to have seen the pre amp tubes included in your video but was able to find that from a separate video. Thank you!

[@rullian2112]

This video has come in useful twice now. Many thanks for uploading. Your expertise is much appreciated.

[@jonevans870]

Thanks for the video. I just used this info to change the stock Chinese tubes in my Grandmeister Deluxe 40. It didn't change the sound at all but it sounds kickass anyway and now I have spares.

[@TheDRAMSuk]

Excellent video, great advice. Just changed the valves in my TM18 to Fenders and much much better sound.

[@rohadtanyad8908]

you do know that fender makes no tubes. they just re brand some cheap chinese or russian stuff.

[@TheDRAMSuk]

rohadt Anyad Hi, Sorry should have said for the set of JJ Electronic Valves I had previously put in my Fender Blues Junior.

[@rohadtanyad8908]

Richard Clark mesa boogie does that also. very few places manufacture tubes now, i only use nos. mostly telefunken, ge, rca or mullard.

[@jakeandlori23]

Brother I have the same amp, thank you for posting this!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

happy to be of use ;)

[@BrianSGuitars]

Hey I had an issue with the same amp where I was getting a lot of background noise using the power soak function. After watching this video I was able to swap the tube around, the two outside EL84 to the middle, two middle to the outside.. Whatever the issue was - FIXED IT! Thanks for doing this! Save me having to buy new tubes, or send it away for work!

[@axmen9]

Thank you for posting this!

[@dancolvin9761]

Great demo man, I really appreciated this

[@francesco_cangiano]

Super helpful mate, thank you!

[@dansinners]

Great video. Thanks very much.

[@MetrumWorld]

thx dude, you saved my day (and amp) ! cheers Alex

[@steveb7714]

Thank you for this excellent video. I bought one of these about 10 months ago and realized H&K put Chinese tubes in at the factory. Not being a fan of that sound, replacing those tubes with some 60's US made ones will be exciting to hear. Also thought the string trick was genius, cheers !

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Hey no problem! Glad you find it useful!

[@bordonbert]

Damaging valves by touching them is a myth! It's halogen bulbs as used in car headlights which are damaged as they are specially coated. In a valve the glass tube is only a means of keeping air off the innards. Best have clean hands of course, you wouldn't want the smell of fish and chips coming out of your amp when you run it up, but you don't need to fiddle around with the cloth if you have washed up first.

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Albert Burton This makes sense^

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

You don't know what you are talking about. Your hands have oil on them. When you touch the glass, the oil gets on the glass. Oil amplifies heat. When those tubes are hot, the spots where oil resides concentrates the heat. You should always use gloves and wipe off the glass with rubbing alcohol. Very thick glass can often keep the tubes from failing but it can impact sound and can cause total failure.

[@bordonbert]

Total tosh! The amount of oil you will transfer onto a valve glass shroud from clean hands, (I did say Quote: "Best have clean hands of course"), is minimal and the idea that it "amplifies heat" is a total nonsense. Show us any evidence that it "amplifies heat" then. What engineering principle is this based on? Or maybe post another site (not a "guitar techy" one which propounds the same stupid musical myths and legends but a proper scientific or engineering site) which backs this up with any genuine proof. There is no coating on the shroud to damage as there is on a halogen bulb. There is too little oil to transfer from clean hands to worry about. There is no problem! And as for this: "Very thick glass can often keep the tubes from failing but IT CAN IMPACT SOUND and can cause total failure." How?

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

You sir can go ahead with the myth you created in your head. I hope no readers are foolish enough to believe your rubbish. This is why every "professional" set of instructions state: use cloth gloves and wipe the tubes free of oil with rubbing alcohol. The slight bit of oil you disregard is significant at high temperatures. Sorry, if I don't have a peer reviewed study handy for you, but I have extensive experience in the field. Don't care what you think actually. Just sharing my experience with others and strongly suggest they toss your myth malarkey out the window: follow manufacturer's advice for a reason.

[@trevorwesterdahl6245]

Perhaps, you should consider why oil is used in cooking....must be some "techy" "engineering" thing going on there, huh? Can't possibly affect how even the temperature is on glass? Nah! People pour it on pans because the section with oil doesn't react differently than a section without oil.

[@timothyjay2012]

Tad Tubes are some of the best Quality you can buy these days!!

[@threeonamatchventura]

Good idea with the string but you can touch the tubes. You're thinking of halogen or xenon lamps. Great idea removing the cover the way you did. love this amp.

[@raydetone]

Thanks for the info! btw its ok to touch the tubes (already mentioned) . I've asked HK for a remedy for not being able to see the knob adjustments on the amp when on a dimly lit stage. All the pretty blue coolness makes for a very impractical working guitarist's amp. I put in some pretty ugly knobs as its at the very least necessary when no soundcheck to be able adjust & balance the 3 masters quickly onstage during the 1st few songs. And on the EQ knobs I put a black line towards the panel which gets some light from behind the tube which is good when set between 3 &9 o'clock only. Any ideas that are not so ugly :-) greatly appreciated!

[@October.Industries]

You could drill a small hole in the dial and route fiber-optics. The light from the back would probably be enough to make a pretty noticeable indicator.

[@raydetone]

That sounds cool but too intricate for me, I y some big old black knobs w pointers for volumes and and smaller version of the same for Gains. Ugly but very practical

[@sean.jamieson]

Ray DeTone Just put a speck of glow in the dark paint on the pointers of the original knobs...

[@threeonamatchventura]

they sell blue glow in the dark tape. use a hole punch to cut the tape so all pieces will be the same size.

[@raydetone]

@@threeonamatchventura since the issue is not a lack of light but blue light that is too bright coming at your eyes, I don't think this would work in this case.

[@remisellem7088]

Hi, how do you change the third tube one the right of the preamp (the one which is covered)? Cheers

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

The silver casing around the tube is removed the same way you unscrew a 'bayonet' type lightbulb. Simply push and then twist in an ANTI-clockwise direction. No glue, no screws, nothing. Tip: all three small tubes, together, are the 'pre-amp section'. The tube you asked about is the 'V1 position'. It effects your tone the most as it is amplified the most. Use a very quiet tube in this position. The silver casing protects it from unwanted noise. The middle tube is the 'V2' position. It is called the 'tone stack' and is what the 'low/mid/high' dials work with. The last tube of the three is predictably called the 'V3 position'. It is what splits your guitar signal up and sends one half to the two big 'outside' tubes and the other half to the two big 'inside' tubes for amplification.

[@MetabaronIsnogood]

Reece Jackson Hi Reece I am about to change the valves on my amp, and I began the necessary reading. From what I have read, the V1 IS the most important, as you say. However, I still have my doubt, particularly on the TM36, on which one of the 3 is the V1. The most popular opinion is that V1 is the one closer to the amp, however, as a newbie, it sounds a little strange as a rule. How were you able to define which valve is the V1 stage? Was it the same rule, or some schematics you found?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

+ Ioannis Madesis It helps if you understand a little bit of physics but basically the V1 tube is the one that has it's signal amplified the most. This means that any 'unwanted noise' in the V1 tube besides the guitar signal will also be amplified (all tubes have some level of unwanted noise.) Tungsol is one of the quietest which is why i put it in V1. But see tubes are sensitive and can pick up and amplify any random radio signals that pass through them. Since the V1 is the MOST amplified tube in an amp, it will be protected with a metal shield to block out unwanted radio noise. So if you ever want to know which tube is V1 you should first look for the shielded tubes.

[@山楂退烧贴]

The original post-stage is a 6n15n tube, can you replace the EL84 post-stage tube?

[@HazyIPA74]

Good morning. Terrific video!!!! I purchased a grandmeister 36 and TM112 about a month ago. Saturday night at church service I heard some popping and crackling coming from speaker (a lot) during practice, and also intermittent pops while playing the set. When we were finished I looked at the back of the amp saw the TSC had one LED out (I run it at 36W), it was also blinking. Any idea what could have happened? Is there a tube blown already? We had practice Sunday and powering up from cold there was crackling in speaker cabinet and TSC was same as the night before. I changed all my patches to 18W and the TSC lights as it should. Same for 1W 5W. Last night i plugged in to play for a bit. Same popping and crackling big time. Now though at 36W the lights are all off, and when switching wattage, the lights operate as normal. I’ve sent an email to support but have yet to hear from anyone. Thanks in advance.

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Tony Vitale Here is a link to my other video on the Tubemeister which is all about 'how to think about Tube Safety Control' and what those lights actually mean etc. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3-coKh7rdRnm9k However to directly answer your question, a flashing tube light under the circumstances you described means that the flashing tube is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the tube light is solid red then the amp has disabled the tube to protect itself from damage. The only time those the red lights come on when there ISN'T a fault is when the two MIDDLE tubes get disabled while operating at any wattage below 36W, OR, when you are testing them by putting your pick in the little slot to see the flash count. If the amp is on 36W and the lights are all OFF then everything is running fine. Flashing red lights means there is a problem (unless you're testing). If my amp started doing what you described I would replace the tubes pronto. Even if they seem to have 'fixed themselves' like in your case. But that's just my recommendation. Even though faulty tubes can fry your amp, TSC in H&K amps is designed to protect the amp if a tube fails.

[@HazyIPA74]

Reece Jackson thank you for the quick reply! I watched you other video. great stuff. So i'd have to replace all (4) EL84 tubes.... :( bummer since its only a couple months old. I'm hoping H&K will reply to my inquiry. Thoughts on a replacement brand? I dont see anywhere to buy OEM H&K tubes Tony

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Tony Vitale TAD are the tube brand recommended by H&K and they are very nice and warm. You don't need to buy a whole set, just use the chart and count the flashes to see what voltage your other tubes are biased at. You can then just ask the shop for a tube with that bias voltage.

[@HazyIPA74]

THank you for the info. odd that H&K doesnt reccomend their own tubes? ANy idea if my tone will be affected by having one lone brand tube even if voltage is the same?

[@HazyIPA74]

Tony Vitale O just did the TSC test with the pick and got differnt readings. latest one is 12 blinks all 4 4 blinks inner 2 5 blinks second from left ( this is the one that is blinking on 36w Thoughts?

[@StrikeEagle14]

Great video, I had the TSC saying one of the power tubes had no current so I replaced both of them with a matched pair but I still have significantly lower volume than I should on my ts18 do you have any idea why this might be?

[@threeonamatchventura]

Power tubes need replacing. did you replace the sets of tubes 1 and 4 or tubes 2 and 3? hope she comes back for ya.

[@joshrose512]

Thanks for this video!! I just switched the tubes in my amp using your video. The two middle lights on the TSC still stay on though, despite changing all four of the tubes. Shouldn't they all be off when my amp is not in standby mode? Also, when I rub the bias check, the two outside tubes flash 13 times, and then the two inside ones flash 8 and 9 times. Is that problematic in any way?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Solid lights mean the tubes are inactive. I expect u have power soak on

[@shaunm1983]

Are these amps good for clean and blues music. I really like the look of them but someone said there more for metal and stuff.

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

That's all i play :) they sound brilliant for both however a few people have commented they think it sounds 'a tiny bit fizzy' on high gain. The guitar you're using makes a difference, too. Overall i highly rate this amp for clean and blues.

[@shaunm1983]

Ok cheers dude

[@piwiiiii]

Stinkfist2000 I m playing only blues and I will receive mine in 2 days !!

[@giovanniv1974]

Really helpful thank you for posting! What kind of valve is that with the cover on it? Is that just a standard pre-amp tube as well?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Yes it's a standard pre-amp tube :) I have an Electroharmonix 12AX7 in mine at the moment

[@giovanniv1974]

Reece Jackson thanks man! I just put in a full set of JJ's with the help of your video. Really appreciate it! Have you tried Mullard reissues?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

GiovanniV I haven't tried those actually. Any good?

[@giovanniv1974]

Reece Jackson Not yet, but they are next on my list!

[@maiyanadavis7653]

hi, I just bought the tubemeister and it my two drive channels weren't working, also there was a tube that wasn't lighting up. I took it back to the store. One of the guys changed a tube that was covered by that metal thing, in the front row. Tje tube that doesn't light up, wasn't the problem? He also unscrewed both sides of the head and took everthing off. Was that good or bad?

[@actionguitar]

That blue quantum mechanics book :)

[@ashcosmo3854]

I hear an aussie accent, how much did your amp and cab set you back? They're so expensive over here I'm thinking about maybe the deluxe 20 instead

[@cgkindler]

How did you get them to send you replacement valves under warranty? Did you simply call them and ask for it, did you have to send the bad ones back? Thanks! I've got a Grandmeister 36 on the way. I've got a used TM 18 combo and LOVE it, but I have a high pitched, tea kettle like noise when it's on. It's faint but there, can hear it through the mic. I DID replace the tubes with Mesa Power and Grove tube pre amps, and I'm wondering how common this noise is - how would you describe the noise you heard and did THESE tubes cure that noise? Thanks!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Hi! After reading your description of the tea kettle whistle, that is EXACTLY the way i would describe a faulty tube sound. Note: if all tubes are working fine, this squeeling noise will not be there. This means you have a bad tube. To figure out which: If you can hear it the same across all three channels then it's very likely a bad power tube (EL84's). If it varies from Channel to channel it's likely just a pre-amp tube OR could be a combination of pre-amp/power tube if more than one has gone south on you. Note: The H&K tested tubes i got did indeed fix the noise i had. I am a H&K endorsee and i contacted my supplier to get replacements. However, The tubes that come stock SHOULD have a 3 month replacement warranty on them. Check with the place you bought it. I did not have to send the damaged stock tubes back.

[@johnyboytown]

you really do not have to worry about touching the valves, if you're that worried, give em a wipe when done. they're not halogen bulbs.

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Indeed johnyboy, i do slightly over-emphasise that lol

[@scorchio100]

My tsc has 2 solid less, no sound coming out. Manual says the anode fuse needs replacing? Do you know much about this?

[@scorchio100]

Kill myself!? ha ha I think Ill be alright mate. I contacted hughes and kettner. They told me where to locate the fuse. Simple replace

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Great! Glad you found a fix. could you please comment where the fuse is? for others with the same issue it would help them out!

[@scorchio100]

So the anode fuse you need to replace is T200mA 250V. To find it you take the 8 screws out from underneath the bottom of the head. This reveals the main board. The fuse is located in position FU1, near the large electrolytic capacitors. H&K also recommended replacing the tubes. On a seperate note, I replaced all the preamps and power tubes with JJ's. Sounds Awesome, better than before

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

thanks for the info Craig! Please note kids, do not take off all 8 screws and the sides yourself. If you completely remove the sides that could void your warranty (There are security strips attached to the inside of the plastic side panels so they will know if you've accessed the electronics)

[@steveb7714]

One more thing dude, do you get a loud popping noise on yours when switching from the Clean to the Gain channel?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Steve B Nope. That sounds like something is a miss. I'd try changing out tubes one at a time to see if it stops, starting with the power tubes, then the pre-amps. If that doesn't fix it then take it to a tech.

[@shanewilson2270]

Same procedure for GM 40?

[@TheNiggiboy]

er i have a problem i think i bent a pin in the socket so that the sound cut's out at some point

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

If you bent a pin on one of the tubes you can simply remove the tube and straighten it with your hand. If that doesnt fix it replace the tube. If you have done that and it's still cutting out then the problem is with the socket it's self. DO NOT attempt to fix anything on the amp it's self. even when they are swiched off these amps have large capacitors that hold vast amounts of electrical charge. if you touch one of the terminals IT CAN DEFINITELY KILL YOU. take it to a technician if straightening the pin and replacing the tube doesnt fix the issue.

[@TheNiggiboy]

Reece Jackson it seems to be working now i tested it for a few hours and it didn't cut out i bent the pin back :D and don't worry about me getting zapped i am an electrician i know that tubes run with about 300 volts :D

[@douglaswilson8060]

so changing the tubes voids the warranty?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

No. Removing the sides completely breaks a seal that guards the electronics from tampering. This video shows you how to access the tubes yourself, without removing the sides.

[@valeriobelluardo]

scusami ma la seconda parte del video l'hai rimossa? i want to change the 3 tubes 12ax7...please help me!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Hi! to change the 3 12AX7's simply follow the procedure for removing the amp's cover. then simply push off the little wires holding them in and remove them in the same way as i showed for the big valves. Pre-amp tubes in this amp do not need to be biased. just plug in the new ones (being careful to line up the pins with the socket) and that's it :)

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Indeed johnyboy, i do slightly over-emphasise that lol

[@gaylemullen815]

Not one person on the internet has filmed the V1 tube being changed

[@delarosa74]

Hi, Great video, very helpful! I was considering changingboth preamp and power amp tubes. Which ones did you install for this video? Do you or anybody else watching this video recommend any particular tube upgrade for the TM36? Thanks!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

I recommend Tungsol for power tubes (they give this amp a REALLY nice hot sound), combined with a Tungsol 12AX7 in the shielded preamp (v1), a JJ 12AX7 in the middle (v2) and a TAD 12AX7 in the far left (V3). Sovtek 12AX7's dont sound too good in these amps. The TAD12AX7 in V3, being a Chinese made tube, gives it a touch more warmth than other brands in the same position. If you would like to know why i recommend this just ask :)

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

In this video i only replace the power tubes. But replacing the preamps is easy as pie if ur careful :)

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Also, I changed the factory Chinese power tubes for TAD power tubes here. Later on i switched to tungsol.

[@delarosa74]

Reece Jackson Happy with Tungsol tubes?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

Yes, tungsol are the best for this amp imo.

[@filippou2]

Excuse me,where is the second part?

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

youtube deleted it somehow :(((

[@satanghost8856]

you can definitely touch tubes though

[@bluecrater5362]

F*CK THE WARRANTY IM TAKING THE F*CKING SIDES OFF. JESUS CHRIST. TIE STRINGS AROUND THE VALVES WTF MAN. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND GOOD DAY

[@TrioxinZombieGaming]

I'm I the only wondering why we are ignoring the fact he didn't bias the tubes ?

[@bpy4073]

Remember don't take out the bottom screws

[@DaveHicklin]

There ie no link .I have a tubemeister,I don't use anymore but At one time I got rid of the Chinese tubes.I also installed JJ tube.Contact Hughes&Kettner .you will need to have your matched tubes once installed do not touch them with your fingers.there's a auto bias on the amplifier built in .Go slow and don't touch anything.there are capacitors that store volts,you can get a bad shock.If you aren't familiar with this project ,be very careful.sorry I couldn't be more helpful .

[@davroz]

Thanks for uploading the video, its really useful. I have occured a noise issue on my Grandmeister 36 this weekend, when taken off standby this noise comes on after about 30 seconds - I'm considering changing all the tubes as i'm still running the stock tubes and hoping this will fix it. I've recorded the noise through the red box out, Have you ever had anything like this on yours? soundcloud.com/davroz/grandmeister-noise

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

I have had a similar issue that was fixed by replacing the stock tubes. If there is one mod i would suggest for the tubemeister series it would be to get the tube sockets replaced but besides that i LOVE this amp. If replacing the tubes (both pre-amp and power tubes) doesn't fix it then deff take it to a tech/request a replacement. I'd try removing and re-inserting the stock tubes before purchasing new ones. however if that doesn't fix it we recommend Tube Amp Doctor (TAD) tubes as replacement. the stock tubes are Shuguang brand and arent the best. cheap Chinese tubes. TAD are the best Chinese tubes on the market and enahnce hte amps warm/clean tones. Let me know how you go.

[@beamflies]

+Reece Jackson Hey I know its a different thing but my tubemeister 36 anniversary has brutal hum on the crunch or gain channel. I just got it and was wondering if this was likely to be the tubes, someone posted a seperate video which shows the issue perfectly kzbin.info/www/bejne/maquanyNqJuSm7M (JUST EDITED THIS COMMENT AS IT WOULDN'T LET ME REPLY TO YOURS FOR SOME REASON) Thanks for replying :) You know I just ended up sending it back as I had literally just received it so it was under warranty. I am hoping they just send out a replacement, kind of a pain as I loved how it sounded and the features. Anyway just to give some more details on the issue for anyone who might need them Q1. YES Q2. NO - Present with lead in or out Q3. YES Q4. YES Q5. YES - but to a lesser degree i.e. have to increase the vol more to make it noticeably as you power soak more Q6. FX Loop press or leads in \ out didn't seem to make a difference Q7. Didn't make a difference Q8. YES absolutely Main thing was that on hitting the Lead or Crunch channel with gain \ master even 1/3 way up each the hum was way too loud. I expect a little noise on a dirty channel but this was more or less unusable. Clean was not too bad, when I hit the speaker mute button it disappeared, or when the volumes were turned down to almost nothing. Here's a couple of vids demonstrating, taken in two different locations 60k apart and with different setups. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKjCfGaEr7Zmos0 kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJfUZaVrl9iSgbc Might be useful for anyone else who experiences this. Cheers, Beamflies

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

+beamflies i feel your pain man! ok i'll ask you some questions that will help you get to the bottom of it. Q1. Is the sound present with no lead in the input jack? Q2. Is the sound present with ONLY the lead plugged in to the input jack? (no guitar) Q3. Is the sound present with a diff guitar? (if you have one. it's Ok if not). Q4. Is the sound present with a diff lead? (it's Ok if you don't have a second lead). Q5. When the amp is making the sound, does it happen on each 'power soak' setting? (except 0W) Q6. When the amp is making the sound, does it happen while your FX loop button is switched on/off? (My first guess is that the FX loop is on with no cables plugged into the send & return jacks. I've had this happen to me before and had the same noise lol) Q7. When the amp is making the sound, does it happen when the reverb button is switched on/off? Q8. Finally, does it happen when there are no cables or anything plugged into the front or the back of the amp (except the speaker cable) and no buttons or lights whatsoever are glowing on the back of the amp? Settings should be -> [midi: Unplugged & OFF | Footswitch: Unplugged | FX Loop: Unplugged & OFF | Reverb: OFF | Red Box: Unplugged | Tube Safety Control: ALL RED LIGHTS ARE OFF | Power Soak: 36W]

[@beamflies]

+Reece Jackson Updated my original post :)

[@beamflies]

+Reece Jackson Sent it back for repair and it came back still buzzing so returned for refund now :(

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

+beamflies ok yeah sounds definitely defective. i'd ask for a replacement myself. sorry you have such trouble :(

[@jedsterock]

Just wear a glove!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

haha i had no gloves so i used the coin bag. although, if you're refering to the string, i wanted to make sure i didn't move the tube in the wrong direction accidentally and damage the socket (which is fragile). it's difficult to get a grip of the springs with just your fingers lol.

[@khendrabarr4962]

next time just wear gloves dude, a LOT less fuckin around ;)

[@thehandseesall]

Hahaha....no need for the elephant man hand puppet man!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

i am not sure what you mean?

[@thehandseesall]

One day you'll get it!

[@xXDirtyCharlieXx]

i think maybe you are crazy lol