How To Check And Replace Your Motorcycle Wheel Bearings | The Shop Manual

[@RevZilla]

Keep your bike rolling smoothly with new wheel bearings. RevZilla has you covered: rvz.la/3P4OIuK

[@Subboxstoker]

Ari has figured out how to get paid to work on his bike. Excellent

[@vintagealchemist4328]

He's been doing since MC Garage Days. Mad Lad

[@AriH211]

Gotta embrace episode topics wherever I can find them!

[@mykheaton]

And rightly so :)

[@xb5883]

Yep, and Zach taking the long way to work

[@roscocsa]

I can send him my 80’s goldwing if he needs a project…

[@johnhoaglun1]

Simple and straightforward. Thanks to Revzilla for making the content from Ari, Zack, and Spenser available to us.

[@rayhan4502]

People may think this video is useless because it's a basic knowledge, but for me it really help cause no one around me know anything about bike

[@GaLaKtIkclan]

Another thing to mention here, is you'll notice the bearings are NTN bearings or will most likely be some other common bearing brand which you can buy yourself from a bearing supplier for usually much less than the motorcycle specific kits you'll find online that are OEM or aftermarket (All balls/pivotworks etc...). As for the seals, these can also be purchased from a bearing supplier, you'll just have the measure them with some calipers. Take a picture of the markings on the rubber sealing rings on the bearings and that will usually have the bearing partnumber and enquire at a local bearing shop or online. If you're unsure, be bet is just to take the seals and bearings out and get the guys at the bearing shop to measure them out for you and they should be able to supply you with identical ones even if they're not the same brand. This also works for other bearings and seals on your bike, especially internal engine bearings. OEM and Motorcycle aftermarket kits are usually a bit on the priceier side, so this can save you quite a bit of money at times, this especially saved me a lot when I had to get engine bearings for my WR450f

[@tolga1cool]

Definitely do this! It saves a ton of money. OEM markup on bearings is sometimes 5-10x. BUT!! Make sure that the bearings are the exact same spec as the old ones. Ive had it before that a bike specified some non standard bearing clearance spec

[@gregorytubbs3444]

​@@tolga1cool Good point. This reminds me of an air compressor bearing that was sold only by the manufacturer. You couldn't get away with buying a common name brand replacement.

[@joepi5]

​@@tolga1cool this is almost always the case at the rear axle because there are 3 bearings. All motorcycles I replaced the wheel bearings in had a C3 clearance bearing in the "middle" bearing, so in the wheel hub on the side of the chain.

[@rhemyis]

@H Sqrd oem bearings are more expensive not only because of the price policy but because of the high quality they offer, a quality bearing means more than just two rollers with some steel balls between them, the market is full of counterfeit products and those NTN bearings that you mentioned are highly targeted by Chinese being a reputable company. So, buying a big brand for a cheap price might be a good deal for your pocket but no so reliable for your motorcycle. If prefer buying oem for jobs where I must be sure I got a high quality part and wheel bearings are included in this category.

[@GaLaKtIkclan]

@@rhemyis you're not wrong. But if you're buying bearings from a reputable bearing supplier, there is a very small chance that you'll be getting counterfeit bearings

[@grosbeakmc]

Everything you need to know and nothing you don't, presented with excellent narration, editing and production - just what I've come to expect from The Shop Manual. Ari and team - thanks and please keep 'em coming!

[@neil1266]

It's very hard to simplify a process that you know off by heart and make it easily understandable by anybody,Ari has this understanding and ability and it's plain to see. I cannot stress enough how important being able to do this is,well done Ari a fantastic explanation as always.

[@ReQuiem_2099]

I don't know how well these videos do on the KZbins, but know that they are incredibly valuable and appreciated by those of us that watch! Keep up the awesome work at Revzilla, Common Tread, HSLS, and can't wait for the next big adventure!

[@sawyer4981]

This video saved my bacon. Was replacing my tire and never thought to inspect the bearings. Sure enough, one of them had a rough spot it was hanging up on. Was on the verge of going. Got em all replaced and am worry free for the foreseeable future!

[@dare92]

I replaced my bearings 4000km ago (last year). They are already shot because I hammered the second bearing too tight against the center spacer, causing it to side load. I ordered new parts and I will try this again, this time making sure the second bearing is only snug against the center spacer and not fully seated. This is also documented in the wheel bearing installation instructions by All Balls. For people reading this: do not hammer your second bearing too tight against the center spacer.

[@JT-fd3tf]

Anyone else feel that resting the wheel directly on the brake disc is asking for trouble? See 3:24. I take 99.999% of everything Ari says at face value, but this seems a little off, considering it's so easy to support the wheel on the rim and not the disc. Love these videos!

[@mackan98502]

my favorite series on youtube. cant get enought of Ari.

[@mcwopbrother1]

I'd like to complain...quit giving heartfelt messages at the end, making us feel like you care. You and Zach shouldn't be allowed to exist for being better riders and people than most of us. Obviously kidding. You guys are phenomenal and a huge reason I still look to Revzilla first and even if it's a doable amount more I buy from them rather than someone else. I live in an area where I can't really support local and they do nothing to encourage it anyway..so....well.....I appreciate everything ya'll produce and please never stop. Hope you both start making more money for your efforts because your obvious real dedication to riders is hard to find. But seriously...smoking us all on track, knowing more and being kickass humans on top of it just seems like we should ban ya'll lmao.

[@CaptLawrence]

Are you following me around because I swear this is the third time I've struggled through a job and then you post a handy guide when I'm done lol. Now I know what all I did wrong!

[@billiondollardan]

Dude I feel like I haven't seen Ari in years. Idk if I'm just not getting notifications and stuff but it's cool to watch the video

[@Joshuawelds]

Imagine a world where every used bike for sale had Ari Henning as it's previous owner. The confidence/peace of mind as a buyer would be life changing.

[@AriH211]

I take a lot of pride in fully rebuilding well-used CBR250/300s and offering them for sale to new riders. Buying used (and cheap) shouldn’t have to mean you’re buying a basket case.

[@jamesberry276]

Great video! Every detail covered and shown well. I watched for yet another answer to what is the best bearing grease and came away with alot more knowledge on Every aspect of bearing check/change. I thank You very much! 👍

[@blipco5]

For a FREE DRIVER TOOL… After you remove the old bearing, take it too your bench grinder and grind off about 1/32 inch off the surface of the outer race (this prevents it from getting stuck in the bore). And the same off the end of the inner race (so it won’t contact the inner race of the new bearing). Wear leather gloves because it’ll spin like crazy. Easy peasy. 👍

[@sam2920]

Good tip, thanks.

[@jeffreymurillo3131]

5:35 That bearing removal tool is awesome, makes the job so much easier.

[@motomuso]

Another solid vid. Kershaw knives indeed! Believe it. I sent in my Ken Onion Leek Serrated for a lost safety slide. In addition, the point had been slightly bent. They sent back what was basically a brand new, razor-sharp knife at no charge.

[@GuillermoChancey2]

Thanx Ari! I love when Ari uses his Versys for these videos. I have one just like it and it's very fortunate for me.

[@Syedsai-k8t]

Miss you so much back then on mc garage. Sorry didn't get back to this new channel earlier. Glad to see you back! And you have recovered fully from your facial injury during ur mc days.

[@tolga1cool]

I would have liked a bit more focus on the rear wheel also, since oftentimes the sprocket carrier has its own bearing which can be much much more of a pita to replace then the wheel itself

[@jiikooo]

I know how to change bearings maybe even my eyes closed but ari's how to videos are so well explained and entertaining that if he made a video how to but the key in to the ignition, i would watch it 😁

[@OG_Mereles]

I don't even own a bike and love this show.

[@Quadrenaro]

I went over the bars yesterday on a track, and I'm feeling it today! Luckily the only thing broken was a light.

[@TheCornflake76]

Old bearings come in handy for driving the new bearings in when you don't have the right socket or specialty tool.

[@CIarkNova]

Same with old fork seals, double stacked when installing new ones!

[@Quatra05]

The SM vids are some of my favorite! The knowledge conveyed, paired with videography excellence makes for a video that is not only captivating, but also incredibly informative. Thank you for always going the extra mile to provide excellent content 👍

[@roykessels]

Solid video! I'd like to add grease to the inside of the new seal, to make it last longer and give the bearing another layer of protection.

[@DmitriyAdv]

Good tip on cleaning/greasing the collars and seals every time the wheels are off. I don’t know why so few people do this. It makes the bearings last so much longer and your wheels roll smoother. I also always check the OEM catalog for bearings and seals. They are often cheaper than aftermarket kits like “all balls” and higher quality.

[@JA-jg5le]

Agreed. Too many amateurs on social media questioning good practice

[@SSS-mp8th]

I know how but I probably won't, still thanks Ari at least now I know what's involved.

[@addvali]

Absolutely perfect how-to. Just did the wheel bearings on my Versys (the only difference is that the sprocket hub also has a bearing in it) using this as my guide and it came out perfectly! Thanks Ari!

[@CptSlow89]

Bought 1996. Kawasaki EX500 in 2008. Had it for 14 years and never replaced any bearing. No problems only put some grease in the front one.

[@wilharnecker2575]

Thanks Ari! Nobody does these vids better than you!

[@hugieflhr03]

I’ve been riding for 40 years and I never had a wheel bear problem until I bought a 2009 Buell Ulysses.

[@AriH211]

Those are notorious for failures! The bearings don’t use proper seals 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@hugieflhr03]

@@AriH211 they really do need a separate seal to keep them dry but I’ve found many sealed bearing to have very little grease in them from the factory

[@SoybeanAK]

Literally perfect timing! Just got a new bike with a squeaky front end, was about to call the shop! Thanks a ton Ari!

[@Lemmon714_]

My 81 CB 900c still has the original bearings and everything else. It went to the shop once to check the valves. They adjusted one valve.

[@Sikkasfoo]

How many miles does it have?

[@hunterman600cc]

There's just something about watching him do it that instills confidence.

[@gthaley_81]

I'll be honest, I never even considered the wheel bearings and I'm now very curious to inspect them on the bikes as I'm an experienced auto mechanic and I'm trying to transition from entrusting my bikes to the shop to handling most of their care myself (it's not as straight forward a transition as most people assume, I'm learning). Curious as I watched this video, I pulled out the TSM on my new SCL500 and noted that it also has a bearing in the driven flange (the wheel sprocket assembly), so there's 3 in the rear wheel assembly. I enjoy learning, and I plan to have my dad watch your video on fitting your bike to you as I think he can make use of some of the pointers. Keep up the good work, guys.

[@fattymcgee123]

Perfect timing. Wheel bearings and seals arrived today, but from FortNine as I'm a canuck.

[@mikeskidmore6754]

Don't blast directly on your wheel bearings with a Pressure Washer..

[@williamwintemberg]

Exactly!

[@Xiph1980]

Hey, I just happen to like my bearings as shiny as the chrome on my bike!

[@ducksoff7236]

Yes its better not to but if you are properly maintaining your bike in the first place it isn't going to matter much. For one the shock and swing arm axle mounts are blocking stream. Next the grease you should be using is protecting the seals. Next the seals are completely blocking the bearing. Plus the bearings themselves have their own seals. So if you do happen to blast the area where the bearings are hiding behind. Just smear on some grease to replace the little you may have washed off. Should kind of do that anyway regardless on if you gave it a direct blast or not.

[@mikeskidmore6754]

@@ducksoff7236 If you want me to Pressure wash your bike with my Hot Water Pressure washer @ 2,000 PSI .. I can blow the Lips off the seals and blow all the grease out of the bearings. The only way you can add grease to swing arm and linkage bearings is to disassemble them and add grease. then put it all back together with new seals. My Yamaha Snowmobile has many grease Zerks on the Suspension system. Too bad the skid keeps breaking and I am replacing it with Diamond Air Suspension. I had some 1970's Yamahas that actually had grease zerks on the swing arm. Also the zerks on my Snowmobile skid just leaked grease out the sides. I had to weld some zerks and JB Weld others so the grease went where it was supposed to go .. My Buell has some nice Rubber Dust seals that go over the wheel bearings and seals .

[@josephmicallef1110]

Very good description on what you do on your bikes, keep up the good work.

[@steveross2797]

OK, just my .02c worth: don't put the bearings in the freezer. Doing so introduces condensation into the bearing upon removal from the freezer (think of the outside of that beer you just had watching this vid!). Far better is to heat the hub again and give the bearing bore in the hub a wipe of grease. This will do two things: make the bearing slide in easier and prevent corrosion damage between the steel bearing and the alloy hub. Agree with packing grease into the seal lip as I've seen several wheel spacers badly grooved from lack of lube, allowing grit to grind away at both seal lip and spacer. BTW, I use a wheel bearing remove/install kit from eBay: well worth the money!

[@durtkillon]

I used this video to change out the bearings on my 650. Thank you!

[@TheCdubbleyoo]

Discuss difference between normal drag and dirt/wear/bad grease friction

[@johnnyblue4799]

My shop manual for the 954 Fireblade specifies to install the right bearing first even if there's no circlip. It doesn't say why, but I think it has to do with the distance collar (spacer) and how it will adjust when you torque the wheel. If you're driving your second bearing too tight you'll squeeze the spacer tube too much. If it's left a little too loose the whole bearing will be pushed in when you torque the wheel (pushed by the inner race, which is bad). Torquing the wheel squeezes the inner spacer, the inner bearing races and the outer spacers against the fork legs. Ideally, when that happens, it should happen without repositioning the outer bearing races in their bores, or the bearings will have some lateral preload which is not good for ball bearings. They're designed to take radial load only. That's why it is important to install the bearings in proper sequence and not hammer excessively on the second bearing, but only until lightly squeezes the spacer between the inner bearings races (it should lightly rub against the inner races, but not move on its own and not be impossible to reposition it either). For this reason I prefer a press, not a bearing driver. With a driver it's easier to overshoot. Also, respect the order of tightening the wheel axle and the pinch bolts, for the same reason.

[@rickconstant6106]

If the hub, spacer and bearings are made with the precision they should be, then locating the outer tracks positively against the shoulders on both sides should give the exact distance required between the inner tracks for the spacer to take the clamping load from the spindle without exerting a lateral load on the bearings.

[@johnnyblue4799]

@@rickconstant6106 Maybe it should, but given the tight tolerances for the wheel bearings, machining the wheels and the spacers with such precision is not economical. It's far easier and cheaper to leave one bearing not fully seated. I found this in an allballs pdf with installation instructions (all vehicles/wheel bearings): "... 5. Tap the second bearing in until the inner race just touches the center spacer. See fig 1 Fully seating the second bearing may cause both bearings to become side loaded causing premature failure. ..." It's also my personal observation while replacing the wheel bearings on my Fireblade.

[@DarkIzo]

exactly what you said, one bearing might be the reference bearing that HAS to be in spec, the other might "float" or if the inner part of the wheel is conically shaped, its to help align the spacer

[@Chrispychrispin]

You should always look in the workshop manual to see which bearing is fitted first. The second bearing might not sit 'home' against the hub/wheel when its tight up against the bearing spacer. The problem that might arise if you fit the wrong bearing first is that the position of the discs and calipers is referenced from the first bearing sitting against the hub/wheel. With new pads in the calipers you might not be able to get them over the discs when you refit the wheel!

[@DarkIzo]

one tip for installing the spacer: when hammering/pushing down the second bearing, get slow when approaching the spacer when installed, the spacer should be hard to move by finger, but it should still be movable. too easy to move means there is too much room, too hard or impossible to move means you probably knocked the spacer against the first bearing, possibly causing it to wear prematurely, since the inner race is pushed outwards causing higher pressure on the bearing

[@sv650nyc7]

Exactly. That was quite an important oversight, especially since it's very easy to hammer the second bearing in too far since it won't have a stop like the first one. You have to work slowly and feel the room the spacer has after every hit.

[@matjazpajek4390]

Interesting. On my nc750x, manuals calls for both wheel bearings to be fully sitted, one on the iner sleeve and the second on the spacer. If you don't do that, you can not install dust seal flash with the hub. Any thoughts?

[@KensGarage1]

Nice add on tip Darklzo.

[@zomoto1390]

Is there a particular side in which the bearing should be installed first?

[@hugoharmstorf6234]

Always a great day when a Shop Manual video drops.

[@mikeskidmore6754]

Very well Presented showing three different Methods.. I never used heat, but do always put my bearings in the Freezer. I will try using a heat gun. I don't like to use a torch one something painted very much .

[@johnsims4694]

Very professional, easy to understand. Thank old old biker

[@John-mb7yl]

My favorite motorcycle mechanic Ari ❤❤❤ who explains so well n makes it look effortless 😊

[@mikeskidmore6754]

I bought a 2008 Buell Ulysess last summer with 15,000 miles on it. I replaced the rear tire, I noticed one of the wheel bearings was a bit dry. I was planning to order new wheel bearings promptly. One of my first Trips with the new rear tire was 107 miles one way to pick up a lady for our first date. I had also adjusted the Clutch . Primary chain and changed engine and Primary oil. The bike started making strange noises on the way home. I stopped to check the rear wheel bearings.. All was tight .. The noises kept getting worse. The last three miles I rode at 15 mph in second gear.. One of the wheel bearings had completely fell apart. I found out that the Buell was Notornis for wheel bearing failures and that Buel came out with an update with 3 larger wheel bearings instead of two small ones. I found one of these wheels with the bearings and axle shaft and spacers necessary to do the conversion. I installed the bearings with my press and have since order the tool to remove and install wheel bearings have not used it yet. I have motorcycles that I have bought new and used form the 1970's and 1980's that I have never replaced a wheel bearing on .. but I keep checking the. All Balls seems to have wheel bearings to fit most any motorcycle or snowmobile ect.

[@bluessrv1]

Great video! Love the Motion Pro line of tools. They've got some really neat stuff that, although a little pricey, can save your blood pressure from going through the roof!

[@aayushpoudel2362]

Please make a video on cush rubber.

[@southpawscientific4122]

Barry Henning makes motorcycle repair look so easy

[@derrickmosley80]

This was a great and thorough video. I believe I need to change my bearings because I hear a howling noise, and will be ordering my parts from revzilla.

[@steveh100]

Thanks Ari, learnt loads, this is definately something I'm going to do consider everytime I change tyres now.

[@justmyself1000]

Thank you again Mister Ari! I already know how to do most of these things but I love watching your videos just to double-check. And even learn possibly a different way of doing things.

[@louislopez55]

Hey Ari, can you tell us about your forearm workout?😮

[@wfodavid]

Simple stuff that can keep you from sitting on the side of the road or ruining your or race day. Solid vid!

[@ezequielcosta954]

My bearing was too tight and in spite of these doings it didn't come off,there was very little room for slamming because off the central spacer. What I did:got the dremel and opened a door on the bearing for one of the spheres come off,then it disassembled...after that I was able to remove the central spacer and slam the other one off easy! But...I still had the outer ring of the one I dissembled in place so I put all the spheres one by one again and mounted it..then just slammed it out easy from the other side👌 Hope it helps someone! Cheers from Portugal!

[@davidalder6558]

Thank you Ari. Informative and well presented. I always enjoy your channel. Dave from Nova Scotia Canada

[@smason]

Far less intimidating than it seemed. Many thanks!

[@TwoWheeledPotato]

I had an issue with my wheel where because the inner spacer between the drum brake and the wheel was missing the rear wheel bearing wore out to nothing in about 300 miles and the wheel was canted over. by the time i noticed the cage had collapsed, ran under the bearings and made the entire bearing difficult to spin. i got quite lucky that i caught it before it got worse, because if it did the entire bearing would have siezed solid due to the friction. this also made the chain hard to adjust because the wheel would move forward and backwards on the axle. Thanks for the guide!

[@_sam317]

I just replaced mine few hours ago. Definitely will try that freezer trick on my other bike. Thanks Ari

[@AdventureGlide]

Thanks for the how-to! Is there a guide to how long bearings usually last?

[@AriH211]

That’s hugely variable, and depends on how and where you ride. An enduro bike’s bearing might only last a summer while a touring bike’s will last 10 years and 100,000 miles. That’s why it’s important to inspect them regularly.

[@fabriziobianchi3126]

Grazie...veramente grazie per questa intervista!!!...immenso Luciano!!!

[@magellanicspaceclouds]

I had to do this to my Grom recently. I also used AllBalls.

[@STho205]

Very well presented and realistically done for the avg shadetree with a bike. I do the tactile inspection every tire change, but since I carry the wheels to a shop that mounts and balances for $15 if I bring them in (only $30 if they have to remove wheels)...I think at this point in age I'd just let them replace the bearings since they have a shop press.

[@Firestorm637]

⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ Your review/installs are the best. Straightforward and very informative. Thank you

[@KensGarage1]

As usual excellent content and instruction on a very important maintenance item. Thanks.

[@csn583]

I usually DIY but it's so easy and cheap (1/4hr labor ea) to have this done when getting new tires mounted. Just do it every ~5yrs/10-15k mi.

[@farmoboy83]

never changed bearings on my 75000km 300cc scooter or 65000km sv650. Scooter dwily ridden even on heavy rain. I suspect bearings last a lot more than what manuals say

[@CptSlow89]

Yeah, they last like for 20+ years on road bikes.

[@zeebco1341]

great instructional video! one part of Ari's method I'd question is the use of a torch to pre-heat the hub to facilitate bearing removal. In Ari's front wheel, the brake disc mount bolts thread into the wheel hub, very close to the bearing bore. I've seen some factory service manuals say to use a threadlock (i.e. "loctite") on the brake disc mount bolts. These thread lock compounds have heat limits. Ari did not remove the disc bolts and re-apply loctite in the video. I'd wonder, then, would this leave a risk of rotors coming loose down the road? IDK maybe this isn't a real problem.

[@michaeldobson8859]

Nice job. Very effective to demonstrate multiple methods. Not everyone has shop tools. Maybe you could have mentioned to do an inspection if the wheel continues to vibrate in use after balancing. Vibration is a sign of failed bearings if the tire / wheel is properly balanced.

[@rickconstant6106]

My 1978 Triumph Bonneville still has its original wheel bearings and they are perfectly good after 60000 miles. They don't make them like that any more.

[@jhask64]

I just replaced my front bearings on my Kawasaki Voyager with 53k. They seemed fine, but I don’t want to risk it. 👍🏼

[@user-hf8ie8mf3n]

I drifted a little during the middle, but got my bearings back….👍🤪🇨🇦

[@CubanRider]

Lots of great info Ari. I've also heard landing those wheelies under power is key to preserving the bearings. 😉

[@DearMajesty]

More applicable to the steering bearings, but I suppose it can apply for wheel bearings too

[@tjclarke4604]

I have a little trick you will all thank me for. Rather than the torch applying heat, try this instead. Take one of the cans of "Dust Off" that you use to blow out your PC, but turn it upside down so it sprays out the cryogenic liquid and hit the old bearing and rim with that, it will slip right out. Same application for the new bearings when putting htem in. No need to wait for the freezer. Trust me, you'll love this little hack.

[@skandix]

Perfectly explained!

[@1986XRV8]

Great information, Ari!

[@sanjaywright681]

This is so awesome.. man I needed this

[@avrc9285]

would like to see more of these how-to videos - great job as always sir, thank you !

[@michaelhayward7572]

Fortunately no mention of pre 2000 HD wheel bearings.....taper rollers with end float, so, a clock, a calculator, and various spacer lengths req'd and/or a lathe....oh what fun and joy.....

[@Bobby-wn5yr]

Thanks for this Ari. You taught me how to change my bearings years ago in your old video and I’ve done it 4 times since - so simple! One lesson learned - do not as some people say use the axel to tap out the bearing. It fucks uo the thread lol.

[@diyeveryday67]

Thank You Ari!!

[@aj5434]

--great video ... now another video on "steering head bearings" ... please. Thx. (which is better, ball bearings or tapered roller bearings)

[@AriH211]

Tapered all the way

[@boilermaker1337]

@@AriH211 Higher load capacity, more precise (adjustable play or zero play with preload), but more expensive.

[@Hansengineering]

This is a very tightly produced video. No fat in the script.

[@Marcel_DL650]

Good timing. I just wanted to give it a go. Thanks, this is a very helpful guide a usually. I really appreciate your help and guidance. Your such a treasure for the motorcycle community. Keep up the good work! 👍

[@KRColson]

This is a fantastic video! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Cheers!

[@valeja2002]

You the man Ari, how did you know I was changing tires?

[@docsamson2299]

I used to try to get by on jobs like this without dedicated tools. It usually worked "okay" but sometimes? Not so much. I then realized that I'm saving a ton of money by doing it myself, so why not make it easier with tools designed to do the job correctly? So, I now pay myself ahead of time with proper tools...

[@AriH211]

Same here!

[@milaventurasprod]

I have an old bike that needs to do that, this will come in handy. Thanks Ari for the clear explanation, learned some handy tricks

[@peterhallbus1114]

Nice video, I had to replace a broken wheel bearing on my sons dirtbikemoped, tapping out a bearing that was in pieces took a lot of work, had to dremel out the outer ring of the bearing to get it loose (heating the rim was not enough). If you have any tips on a better way to get that out please make a follow up video.

[@EBthere]

Thanks Ari and RevZilla!

[@x-man5056]

Having the right tool is easier and makes the outcome better. Often spares your knuckle too.

[@grimey5.565]

I love RevZilla. I buy all my gear from them. Their content is also fire. Very informative videos.

[@todayletsbuild2153]

Great video. The extra time taken to preserve the bore in the wheel is great. It is amazing how some good maintenance when not thought out can cause future issues. Great work Ari..

[@Zook500]

great as allways! though il point out that old BMW wheel bearings are set up differently (more like headstock bearings)

[@andrewmasonwerdna]

This is what makes my already happy day, happier! Thank you Mr. H