How to check your cars A/C compressor clutch coil. 3 Easy Ways!

[@easylearn9350]

A very clear and informative explanation of how the AC clutch should be tested safely. Thanks for sharing this video!

[@Prolbuilds]

You are welcome

[@hsk2451]

Thank you Sir for the very informative tutorial/guide - from Singapore!

[@Prolbuilds]

Awesome 👌 thanks for watching

[@bebetohernandez196]

Awesome explanation thanks

[@nigelhosein7822]

Hi very good video having some issues with my ac clutch keeps short cycling the freon is good the pressure switch is working.

[@Prolbuilds]

Hello, In an A/C system there are many variables that can lead to a fast cycling of the compressor. To better assist you, when you have the A/C gauges hooked up to the low and high side with the car running and A/C on, how low does the low side gauge go down before it cycles? And also, how high does the high side go up before it cycles? This will give me a better idea of the health of your system so I can further help. Without this info I could send you in the wrong direction. Thanks for watching.

[@AbhishekSingh-l7y8n]

Thanks for explaining the complete mechanism in a very clear way, is it normal to hear sound every time when electromagnet pulls in metal or it depends upon design ?In my car i hear it every time but i dont hear it my friends car when A/C is on

[@Prolbuilds]

This is a very good question. I have noticed on some model vehicles the sound is quieter than others. I would say its due to the design of the compressor clutch coil combo. Even though it's quieter, I have been able to hear an audible click or smacking sound. But there might be another design that I'm not aware of that operates very quietly. If you don't mind me asking, which make and model vehicle does your friend have? Maybe I can dig up some info on the type of A/C system that's in his vehicle. Thanks for watching!

[@AbhishekSingh-l7y8n]

Thanks again for taking your valuable time to reply.My car model is Honda Jazz 2015 model .My friend's car is Peugeot 208 Diesel engine, i recently recharged A/C gas for and noticed that clicking frequency is lower now, is it because compressor has to work for less time or less loaded now?

[@Prolbuilds]

​@user-mz7nk5wo6v I would like you to imagine a pump. This pump has a suction side where it pulls freon and a pressure side where it pushes freon. This pump is your A/C compressor. Now, this pump has two switches. One is for the suction side called the Low Pressure switch and one is for the pushing side called the High Pressure Switch. These pressure switches help your A/C system work properly. Basically, they turn on and off your compressor clutch coil. So, when your compressor is working, it will start to push freon throughout the system. But if it's low on freon, the low-pressure switches will turn off the compressor until there's enough pressure to turn on again. Think of it like a sweet spot that the system tries to maintain. So when you added more freon gas into the system, you have helped it. Now, when the pump runs, the pressure on the low side doesn't go low right away and the compressor turns on and off less. I hope this helps 🙏 Later on, I'll make a video on this subject. And you're welcome. I'm more than glad to help

[@yabasvlog3439]

Great work

Hi there, thanks for uploading. I replaced xenon bulbs and the coil started not working. First question is there any relation with the bulb installation, second is that can someone damage it easily intentionally, if yes how to prove it? As the third and the last, is it possible to fix the coil or replacement is mandatory?

[@Prolbuilds]

Hello, some manufactures connect multiple components on the same circuit, it might be possible that they share the same fuse. Usually something like your headlights and a/c coil are not connected but start by checking your fuses. Then check your relays. Yes, someone can damage it, your a/c coil more than likely works with 12 volts, if you double the voltage to 24v or even 48v and connect it to the coil, more than likely it will burn the coil. 24v and 48v battery packs are small and easy to carry, I hope this isn't what happen and it's just a bad fuse. Proving it would be difficult, sometimes coils just burn up. But there is some good news, you can just replace the coil on the compressor. I hope this helps

@@Prolbuilds oh man, you are fantastic. Your reply is very helpful for me. I just talked to the car service, they said they don’t change the coil only but the compressor entirely. I knew that the coil itself could be replaced but usually the electricians do it instead of mechanical people. Will try and post it here. Have a nice weekend!

[@mjgrayback6111]

Good job sir tngks

[@paulrambo9620]

Thank you 👌

[@Prolbuilds]

You're welcome!

[@peterbeley1800]

Thank you very much! Very useful video!

[@Prolbuilds]

Glad it was helpful!

[@filmmakingandstuff4993]

Thank you so much this is exactly what i needed!

[@Prolbuilds]

Glad it helped!

[@ntamichael9343]

Where did you turn your multimeter to? How did you set you set your multimeter for testing ac compressor

[@Prolbuilds]

Set the multimeter OHM (Ω) or Continuity

[@headhuncho3914]

Continuity

[@efrencruz6132]

Just set it to continuity with a sound symbol similar to wifi symbol.

[@matthewcleary6259]

Great job

[@gcxred4kat9]

I was sitting in a Starbucks line yesterday w/ ac running, smelled a burnt odor and my ac stopped blowing cold and ac light was blinking. Did a little homework, put in a new relay, hit ac button and ac made a howling noise. Guessing bad bearing and blew the relay?

[@Prolbuilds]

Yes, try disconnecting the serpentine belt and spin the compressor by hand, if you hear a similar noise or you can't spin it, the compressor has locked up.

[@EMC2AlbertJans]

What happens with when you try to activate the clutch by turning the ac on inside the car when there is no refrigerant in the airco system? Does the clutch engage and the airco pump is destroying itself Or Is there a built in safety in all systems so the ac pump is not engaging when there is no refrigerant in the system?

[@Prolbuilds]

Good question, yes there is safety system in place. The low-pressure switch is wired into the electrical circuit to prevent the A/C compressor from turning on when there is low pressure or no refrigerant. You can bypass the switch just to test the circuit. But you should only do this for testing. Just like you motioned the compressor will run until it destroys itself. (I have seen this happen before) Also, there is a high-pressure switch as well. This prevents the system from building too much pressure. Together these two simple switches play a very imported roll in our A/C system. Thanks for the question this subject will make a great video!

[@1776FreedomNow]

will the ohms be off if it's hot outside?

[@Prolbuilds]

Yes, it would be affected by heat. The resistance of all materials changes as their temperature changes. But I don't think hot weather would change the readings too much. If you are having a high reading on an ohm's test, try this to make sure your leads are working well. Place your DMM in the resistance (ohms) function, plug the leads into the DMM and touch the probe tips together red to black. The meter should read about 0.5 ohms or less for good quality test leads. You may isolate a problem to one lead or the other by testing them separately.

[@laxonetrc]

Thank you.

[@Prolbuilds]

You're welcome!

[@johndavid3598]

Continuity is the setting

[@bismarkaziamatey278]

My clutch makes a clicking sound but it doesn't engage the pulley

[@Prolbuilds]

The clutch mechanism may be worn or damaged, preventing it from fully engaging the pulley. Inspect the clutch assembly for wear or damage. Replace the clutch assembly if necessary.

[@cracklejackle5991]

look at this. I hooked the ohm meter to the clutch coil. it shows 9 ohms. So the coil is not opened. but no voltage going in. Unless I did not run the engine to determine any voltage going in. Fuse and relay are good. I have a 2005 dodge dakota V6.

[@Prolbuilds]

So, if I'm understanding this correctly, you only have power to the coil when you run the engine. If this is the case, then that is normal. If you had power to the coil at all times, then you would have a dead battery within an hour or so. Now, here are some other things to check for: I have found a/c compressors with a good coil, but the clutch plate is broken or has fallen off. Also, your system works with a high-pressure switch and a low-pressure switch. If one of these are bad your coil will work sometimes or not work at all. If you can, put a set of gauges on and check your freon level. If you don't have enough freon the coil won't turn on, or short cycle. And the clutch turns on and off too quickly to cool down the truck. But if your system has too much freon it with do something similar. I know this is a lot to check for but by doing a process of elimination you can determine what is faulty in your a/c system. I will be doing a series of videos on all these topics. Hopefully you can get your system working before then.

[@Tnc3448]

Thank you

[@muntasirmahmood4374]

Hi, I need some help/advice! My cars AC stopped working about 2 days ago. It was really hot and I did notice that the engine was struggling when i started it but soon went normal. AC had been working flawlessly but after driving for 20 mins at a traffic light there was black smoke coming from the engine Bay Area. However the AC was still working for another 5mins until there was a really strong swampy smell and then the AC stopped working and all I get now is hot air. I checked using a scan tool and the AC relay and internal AC button are working. There are no error codes and fuse has not blown. When the engine is running the AC will not engage. I can spin the compressor by hand and it does spin freely. I don’t know whether the compressor grenaded itself or whether the electromagnet coil burned up due to too much refrigerant pressure? As if the compressor had locked up then that would explain the burning smell being from the belt rubbing but that isn’t the case for me. Car is 2015 Volvo V40 1.6 D2 (Ford/Peugeot Engine) What do you think? Do you think the compressor died or the electromagnet?

[@Prolbuilds]

Hey, Sorry it took a bit to respond, I just saw this comment. Good job checking all those things, I'm leaning towards a mechanical problem vs electrical based on everything you just explained. But I could be wrong, so I have some things I would want you to test and try. You mentioned that the compressor spins freely. When you did this test did you spin the pulley or the center of the compressor? I wasn't there so I just want to make sure we don't overlook anything. Also, I have seen the clutch system come apart and smoke for a bit. Have you done an ohm's test on the coil? You can have a shorted coil. If the coil seems to be fine, then test the voltage on the wires going into the compressor. With the a/c system on you should see 12 -14 volts at the connector. Basically, you are playing a game of detective. Inspect the wiring harness for signs of burning, and the belt with pulleys for signs of rubbing. Something caused the smoke to appear. I'm leaning more towards mechanical because the fact that you have no codes. You also mentioned the engine was struggling. A 2015 vehicle of any make and model should have some type of computer system or a/c control module that should give you some type of fault code if something was wrong electrically. " Most of the time" It is difficult to really say what is wrong without being there, I hope this helps you. When you do figure it out w/b, I'm interested in what you find, and also someone else can read it to help fix their problem. Thanks!