How to choose a belay device for climbing

Рет қаралды 6,472

WeighMyRack

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 16

@drstrangelove85 8 ай бұрын

It feels like the audio and the video isn't in sync :D

@LankyBastid_ 8 ай бұрын

I'm really surprised that there was no mention of the Edelrid Giga Jul for multipitch climbing or all-around climbing. You can use it with or without assisted braking, and it has the extra loop for multipitch climbing, and you can use it for rappelling, making it incredibly versatile. In the future, I would recommend also mentioning whether a device can be used for rappelling or not.

@WeighMyRack 8 ай бұрын

Thanks for the feedback! With these videos it’s always a challenge to balance providing concise answers to the questions we get and providing a whole course on belay devices a-la @hardiseasy

@drytool 3 ай бұрын

Alpine-Up for widest range of use.

@zacharylaschober 8 ай бұрын

Think single tube non assist devices and two tube non guide devices need to be done away. Merely from a cost standpoint, ABD tube devices win, and on simplicity for use, but choice of carabiner and rope will play a significant role in how well these devices perform. Any mechanical ABD has a higher learning curve and often greater difficulty overriding the brake when paying out slack fast, but you will acquire skill with a device while you acquire skill to belay in general. However, this difficulty overriding is the reason these devices are great for big days, sieging climbs, long projects, and uses such as ascending or descending a line where you need absolute reliance on the device. Plus, carabiner choice is irrelevant, and rope size and conditions tend to matter less. Love my Mammut Smart as a left hander, but have a GriGri for bolting.

@cynthiastandley5742 Ай бұрын

Why did you not include the CT Alpine Up?

@WeighMyRack 17 күн бұрын

That's a fair question. In my experience, it just feels larger and bulkier, and somehow more complicated than other options on the market that perform the same functions. It's not a bad device, by any means, it's just not one of my favorites.

@jamiemcbarron 8 ай бұрын

Surprised I never seen the gigajule

@arnoldkotlyarevsky383 8 ай бұрын

Best device in my experience. It does everything well. It makes the megajul obsolete. It doesnt have the low-angle issues mentioned in the video. Genuinely, the best device on the market for people who do not want or need a camming belay device like a grigri.

@harrygoetz2657 5 ай бұрын

You may want to check with the gym where you plan to do your climbing. Some require a mechanical device.

@WeighMyRack 5 ай бұрын

Couldn't agree more. Each gym has their own requirements and if you're looking for a device to use in the gym, you need to determine what their requirements are, for sure.