How to Choose a Denim Jacket (Why I chose the Levi Type II)

Рет қаралды 21,754

Жыл бұрын

Denim jacket categories:
1880-1905 Levi Triple Pleat Blouse
1905-1953 Levi Type 1 506xx blouse (jacket)
1953-1962 Levi Type 2 507xx jacket
1962-present Levi Type 3 557xx jacket
Wrangler 124MJ (originally Hudson Overall Co and then later Blue Bell Overall Co, which ultimately changed to Wrangler in 1943)
Lee Storm Rider
Lee 101-J
Mister Freedom Ranch Blouse (based on Levi Triple Pleat and Wrangler)
Car/rail coats and chore coats
I think the Lee and Wrangler and Mister Freedom jackets are great for a western/country/cowboy vibe, or if you just want to look different from most people. The Levi T1 is great for ultra vintage aesthetics and those who want a roomy/box fit, either for looks or their body type. Levi T3 looks the most modern and will blend in; it’s very cool and classic, however I don’t love the slim fit or the lack of unique vintage details. Levi T2 provides all the greatest qualities of T1/3 IMHO, in terms of form and fit and features. T2 is the best all around denim jacket design of all time IMHO.
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Пікірлер: 66

@renangaidheal1320 Жыл бұрын

I'm of the view that once we get to Type 3 these jackets have evolved to less work function, more fashion---that's not a bad thing but it does help explain some of the quirks of original Type 3s. (I can't think of Type 1 or 2 as anything but "old style" thinking about my 15 year old 1973 self.) As you correctly pointed out, the first Type 3s had no side pockets, and we rarely had anything to put inside, and two chest pockets were big enough only for a pack of cigarettes (or, umm, other smokeables discreetly invisible..) . My first Type 3 came about 1973 (ahhh, I remember that LZ concert...). I was too young to drive so no keys, obviously no phones, and you put your wallet in your jeans, so you didn't miss side pocket absence, the look was that V formed by the two side stitches that replaced the pleats. Cold hands? No one cared or thought about it and because no one over 25 wore these jackets, there were no further practical concerns. The "tight fit" of the Type 3 was so that you could use it sweater-like, even layer over it for the hard flex. Open it and you're dancing the night away. The older styles were for people who actually worked for a living, not some semi-slovenly hippy hitchhiking to a Dead concert (where some lovely would sew on your patches). Nowadays we think about things like practicality in addition to fit. A farther off the radar Type 2 with some fine style you might think about is from Dawson Denim---a two person shop in the south of England using Japanese selvedge. What distinguishes their Type 2 is a longer collar, a decidedly more British working look, I think, in comparison to the Levi standard.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

I always LOVE your historical perspective from your own experiences! I really should have you on the channel for a chat about how all this clothing functioned in its original context. It’s fascinating how these garments continue to be relevant nowadays and yet are judged based on completely different standards. That’s the main part I’m mostly missing: the original meaning and message and function and context of these clothes.

@rhodabaruch4 4 ай бұрын

Thank you! I’ve been looking for a video doing JUST what you are doing here. It’s incredible you can recall all that and not lose me, all while driving!

@thevintagefuture6567 4 ай бұрын

So glad it all helped!

@wocho1470 Жыл бұрын

Great review, thanks

@zachariahadams Ай бұрын

I had a triple pleated jacket and loved it.

@doublestrokeroll 8 ай бұрын

Willie Watson! 3:32 That guy is a phenomenal singer/songwriter.

@user-en8ek4dg4s 6 ай бұрын

Very nice information

@stefanhnavetsea1588 10 ай бұрын

great video and insight man, that picture with teenager in type1 standing in front of a parked car in the garage cut off the top two of the box stitching on the front pleats on each side, and also flip up the waist cuff thing around the hemline to get a shorter fit and more top blousing effect going, maybe that was the trendy way of wearing it back in the day giving illusion of wider chest and slim waist probably cinching the back as far as he could, my fav is also type 2, but as I happen to live in indonesia where custom ordering a jacket is very affordable so I have a "type 2" hybrid with a cinched back and 2 inside pockets in 16oz selvedge and all tonal stitching.. in regard of fit I think (only from pictures) type 1 pattern is more T shaped with sleeve sewn straight or almost straight from the shoulder so you need to get it in a roomy fit sort of kimono fit otherwise the sleeve would ride up and there would be tons of creases under your arm if you buy it in your chest and shoulder size, whereas type 2 onward the sleeve is already connected to the body under an angle so you can have this is more true to size and you can get a trimmer look type 2 fit if you want it so.

@lt3880 6 ай бұрын

important to keep in mind the different types suit different fitting pants. type 1 is not suited to slim fit jeans, works great with 501 or relaxed. type 2 is more versatile, type 3 is best with slim jeans. I like the type 2 because its more subtle than the others with less gimmicks.

@thevintagefuture6567 6 ай бұрын

Very good points 👍🏽

@dbluntson5243 Жыл бұрын

Dope video man. I bought the type 1 blue indigo from Levis and it fits me perfectly at TTS. I watched your review video and thought about the “shrink to fit” procedure you mentioned. I’m glad I tried it on first. Lol. You have so much insight and I’m glad you are humble enough to admit your mistakes in an effort to prevent others from doing the same. I’m looking for a type 2 jacket now. The type 3 is too popular, for the lack of a better word. Plus, I can’t stand the Vs in the front. I like the waist cinch on the type 1, it’ll allow more layering in the cooler months. Later.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

The Levi T1, nice! Always great when you find a good jacket that fits nicely…Thanks for the feedback on the videos too; I’m so glad it’s all helpful! Hopefully it makes the hobby dinner for everyone….Hope you find a sweet Type 2! I really love mine, but in the end it’s all about fit. I tried on some much nicer ones in a store a while back, but the fit wasn’t right. So the less expensive one was the bomb haha

@_calvinkao 3 ай бұрын

just stumbled upon your channel and I definitely love the type 2 jacket much more than the type 1 or 3. Some of the points you mentioned were why I copped the type 2. Just feel like it looks good and fits great. Plus you do not see a whole lot of people wearing it

@thevintagefuture6567 3 ай бұрын

that rocks! Yeah, sounds like we were thinking the same. Btw, which brand of Type 2 did you cop?

@_calvinkao 3 ай бұрын

I actually copped a Orslow one for a decent price on Grailed. Personally one of my favorite jackets and I wear it a ton

@thevintagefuture6567 3 ай бұрын

Oh that’s awesome! I really love Orslow. I’ve never owned something from them, but I’ve been wanting to. Their stuff all has a great look about it. They seem to have a good eye for design.

@blueband8114 Жыл бұрын

I would definitely go type 2 myself. To me it looks better, less common especially here in the UK.

@colinfdunphy3994 Жыл бұрын

@cheddarbuttersworth2441 Жыл бұрын

I have a type 2 and type 3 and I am glad to have them both. The type 2 is boxy, a little oversized and cut a little shorter which is great if I need to fit a sweater under it to wear in colder weather. The type 3 is a little slimmer and longer and looks less silly if I am just wearing a t-shirt. They cinch belt on the type 1 just doesn’t do it for me. If I could only have one jacket it would be a type 2 with hand warmer pockets (I miss those on my type 2).

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Ah yes, T2 with hand warmers would be the deal if you could have only one.

@road_king_dude 15 күн бұрын

Love the history and the breakdown Brothah! Man I have no style!

@thevintagefuture6567 12 сағат бұрын

Thanks so much! Just start wearing things and your style will develop!

@JosephPratt1986 2 ай бұрын

Very nice video! I have three denim jackets. One is from a brand called VRST, which is from Dick's Sporting Goods, one is from George, which is from Walmart, and one is from Brooklyn Cloth.

@wagenknechtparteiling Жыл бұрын

I thought the same about the Type 3, but than I bought the naked and famous, 012778. Fits like a Type 2, has pockets that are useful. my iPhone 13 Mini fit in. What's also nice, it doesn't have the adjustment straps. very comfortable loose fit and in rotation with my Sauce Zhan mixture of the Type 1 and 2.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Oh cool! Sounds like a great Type 3. It’s great how modernizing these jackets often makes them more useable.

@wagenknechtparteiling Жыл бұрын

@@thevintagefuture6567 by the way.. something totally different. you mentioned once in one of your videos that you own a red tornado? could you probably share your thoughts about Chinese brands?

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Ah, no I don’t own Red Tornado, I was just looking at them and almost bought one. I hear they’re legit though. Great for the price and good fit.

@Ohios1Cheesehead 5 ай бұрын

So yeah... I bought an iron heart type 3 14oz because I wanted the hand warmer pockets. Didn't realize the slim fit. Until the tags were off lol. Now I LOVE my jacket because it cost so much lol. I kid, but I wish I'd have known about the slim fit. I lost some weight for other reasons and now it's much less annoying. And do really love it. Just not the slim.

@thevintagefuture6567 5 ай бұрын

Bummer that the jacket is on the slim side 😄 My brother and I each had the same exact experience with our Unbranded Type III jackets haha…Still a cool jacket. However, my Type II is comfortable and looks good too, which is nice.

@georgeleorgebeorge2354 Жыл бұрын

I’ve had the TCB 50s jacket for a while, which I really like except for two things: the arm holes are a bit tight and the sleeves somewhat slim, and also it kind of puffs out a bit at the waist. This week I got a 30s TCB from denimio which I still have to soak but whose proportions I am liking a bit better (I prefer the 50s two pockets though). What I found about the 50s was that it stained everything blue for ages, especially my chinos where my wrists touched the pockets area. It’s a bit better now after a couple more washes. Another great and informative video ❤

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Wow, that’s interesting about the 50s sleeves. Mine fits me just fine, but now that you say it, I’m realizing they would be snug if my arms became more meaty. I did a couple soaks early on, so I didn’t get much bleed, but this probably reduces high contrast fades (which I’m fine with). Enjoy that 30s jacket! And thanks for watching!

@coyote4936 9 ай бұрын

I always called them Jean jackets. I only heard them called trucker jackets recently

@kennotbrain2953 8 ай бұрын

Wearing jacket in truck.. Then. Look trucker

@franzdoreza5230 Жыл бұрын

I think the Lee rider and storm rider are the best simple design that isn’t all western and I like the zig zag stitch and cut..Many designers like RL have done inspired by Lee denim.. I also love the type 2 because of its balanced design.. I just don’t know how the vintage Lee riders 70s approx, compare to the modern rider jackets..Thanks for the video.. please let me know if you have any knowledge on the Lee fits.. ✌🏼

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Unfortunately, I don’t know much about vintage Lee items. I totally love learning about it though. And you’re right, the Lee jackets rock.

@nathancreel8547 Жыл бұрын

I have the sugar cane type 2. Wearing it right now. The construction is very nice for the price. Felled seams, no chain stitching. Nice selvedge on the inside. I like the fit on the type 2 best as well. The type 3 is really not that slim. I should measure mine side by side with this type 2. My type 3 is a new manufacture Levi’s I bought to wear at work so I did t have to worry about it, but I’ve switched to the type 2 for comfort more than anything. It does look way better on me too. I ended up with a size 40 and put it in the dryer to shrink to fit. 😂

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

You have some cool jackets! The Sugar Cane is another one I was scoping…And yeah, T3 might be more relaxed than I’m remembering. OR it varies brand to brand. Can’t say I’m positive how the original T3 fit, other than from pictures. But even then, it’s hard to know cuz we don’t know if the wearers upsized or downsized

@xXcangjieXx 6 ай бұрын

Hello! I also have the Sugar Cane type 2 in a size 40. Been wearing mine for quite a bit now and it's soon time for the first wash. How much did yours shrink?

@nathancreel8547 6 ай бұрын

@@xXcangjieXx depends on it you dry it, but eventually with washing it will shrink a fair amount. Mine was a bit oversized and is now perfect. I dry mine in the dryer. It is maybe a touch bigger than a Levi’s medium type III after several washes. I could measure it but I’d guess about an inch in the sleeves and length. Not much in the width. It should be a one wash from the factory so shrinkage is supposed to be less than that which is probably from me drying it in the dryer.

@xXcangjieXx 6 ай бұрын

@@nathancreel8547 Glad to hear it because mine is slightly oversized as well. Since it's one wash I assumed there was no shrinkage left.

@nathancreel8547 6 ай бұрын

@@xXcangjieXx I was in the same boat, and it definitely shrank some unless you got the one that is slightly aged. They sell both, and mine was one wash/unsanforized. There’s another with an “s” on the end of the number that was aged just a bit, and I have no idea if it will shrink. I would guess they are the same jacket and sizing though so should end up in the same place eventually size-wise.

@reazallykhan8614 2 ай бұрын

Type 2 is the best cause of the flaps….I chose type 1 with hand warmers ….very unique ….made by Levi’s in Japan…..I wished I could post a pic

@thevintagefuture6567 2 ай бұрын

YES lol

@nurohim9465 7 ай бұрын

🔥

@Godzillah 6 ай бұрын

I saw one jacket which type one u described here but I skipped it because it's size xxl. It's has one pocket and adjuster in the back I knew it was special but it was too large.

@Nicholas-V Жыл бұрын

I don’t mind the Type 3 as much but I went for black since everyone and their mother has an indigo one. Plus it gives some contrast when you’re doing denim on denim. I love my RGT Sashiko Cruiser though, it’s a more modern take on a Type 2.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Getting the black was a great move. I tried a black Freewheelers T2 on at Brogue the other day, and really liked it, for the reasons you described. I’m not familiar with the RGT; totally gonna go look that up.

@Nicholas-V Жыл бұрын

@@thevintagefuture6567 RGT (Rogue Territory) is actually manufactured in Los Angeles. Snake Oil Provisions on Figueroa carries a lot of their stuff if you want to try anything on. The Sashiko stuff is usually preorder or limited drops that sell out quickly.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Oh that’s awesome. So many great places I have to visit when I’m down in LA 🤔 😄

@harveythompson1756 3 ай бұрын

All three types have their individual unique style and look so it would be difficult to choose one over another, and of course it depends on the individuals body size, shape and personality and also how a jacket is worn , ie tight fitting or somewhat oversized. However, when forced to choose one over the others, the Type 2 may be favoured... but dont be influenced by anyone on KZbin ,as what is 'right' for one ,may not be right for another.

@thevintagefuture6567 3 ай бұрын

Well said 🍻

@jasonc158 Жыл бұрын

same thinking here and I got two ironheart type 2.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Oh nice! Iron Heart seems great; though I’ve never tried them. Seems like a fantastic pair of modernized Type 2s. Enjoy those!

@jasonc158 Жыл бұрын

@@thevintagefuture6567 highly recommond ironheart, worth every penny.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

Thanks! I’ll keep it in mind. I’ve never heard a bad thing about IH.

@drzaius844 Жыл бұрын

I have a couple of type 3 Levi’s that I bought in high school in the 80s. Both are faded into oblivion. Back then we would wash Levi’s to make them fade as fast as possible, because dark denim meant your mom just took you to Miller’s Outpost for your new school clothes. It was like now when you have brand new work boots and you feel self conscious. Anyway. Recently I got a hankering for something denim that will fade well, to wear to jobsites on cool mornings so I just bought an Iron Heart IH-123-OD (‘23 spring line) work jacket and the cut is so good. I respect the heritage styles but it’s nice to have something different. Type 3 especially is so common.

@thevintagefuture6567 Жыл бұрын

This is so great. I always love hearing about what it was like back in the day. I totally get the wash wash wash to fade thing haha The Iron Heart sounds so cool!! It really is the greatest feeling having a denim jacket that rocks and fits well.