How To Clean Your Bike Chain In Less Than 3 MINUTES!

[@gcntech]

Got any bike cleaning hacks? Let us know in the comments!👇

[@adredy]

washing machine !

[@tomgier8548]

Yes, five simple steps: 1. Wax your chain. 2. If the chain is dirty use clear water. Using rain or puddles substantially reduces after-ride chain maintenance. 3. Job done. 4. Sell redundant chain cleaning products. 5. Go to the pub while everybody else and their dog are still cleaning their chains. Handling advice: reapply wax every 200-300 km. Easy-to-use chain waxing products are available online or at the local bike shop you least distrust. Cleaning time varies depending on amount of mud, puddles and/or rain availability, and chain length. You're welcome😜.

[@chrisprice5806]

the park chain cleaner and similar work well to circulate the cleaning solution. but a rag works better to finish cleaning the chain with because you can spin the individual rollers. WD-40, dish soap and water are great and the petrochemicals in it actually break down in the sewer system per the amount that is commonly dumped. we are talking about like a 100ml. or if its poured on soil the ground will digest it actually.

[@dvdp4513]

Stop using degreaser on your cassette! Your bearings will love you for it.

[@vasipro]

Hack: use pressure air to fast clean the chain. Cloth it's not enough. Alternatively you can use the dryer. It needs to be 0 moisture when you apply the wax or lubricant.

[@MattCantor21]

A tip for people who keep their chain on the bike whilst lubing it… To get the lube into each roller best as possible shift to the big ring at the front and the big cog at the rear (cross chain) as this’ll make a gap either side of the chain rollers, this will help get the lube inside the rollers better. Happy riding!

[@davidcuellarjustiniano1341]

Good tip mate, thanks!

[@pedallinraw]

It’s lube it’ll get into the rollers regardless 🙂👍🏻

[@casualguy393]

@@pedallinraw pushing out the gunk is a bit easier with larger gaps though ;)

[@drill_fiend1097]

I guess either extremities are fine for 1by?

[@MrClearme]

Isn't it stretch the chain?

[@MrAppoline]

I'm impressed that the clean cloth still looks clean after being used to dry the chain, jockey wheels etc in

[@csababalazs3343]

The clean rag puzzles me...while I'm all the steps the same, for whatever reason can't get the same effect as I see on GCN videos... The same here, I have a new chain now and I will use it with wax-based lube.

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

I waxed my chain for some years. It did not stay as clean as expected. Recently I went back to lube (the one from Decathlon with teflon), applying it with one drop per roller, and my chain is much cleaner.

[@sotecluxan4221]

Chain is never dirty, when always wiped. Esp. after fresh oiling. People do not grasp this simple fact.

[@curescuelias9722]

Go for wax... It's the best thing so far for me. I love how the chain is now, the oil is too dirty for me!

[@cyrusf.4039]

A cheap air compressor goes a long way here ( you can find them for less than price of a good floor pump and they also help in seating your tubeless mtb tires as well). I find that you can still displace a lot of water and soap with compressed air even after you've wiped it down with a rag. Then let it air dry a little longer and then add your lube.

[@BrammyS]

10/10, quick and simple explanation.

[@Mincher]

Watch this video in double speed and you can do it in 1:30.

[@DaigoroToyama]

Exactly the information I needed. Just bought the Muc-Off degreaser. Time to get to it!

[@alysmarcus7747]

this is fantastic. so many get all clean each bit one by one. Blimy! i'm disabled and i can ride - crouching in my driveway for ages not so much. And no one - NO ONE has ever said dry the chain - !

[@michaelhayward7572]

After lubing, i like to run the chain thru every gear on the cassette. That way the chain slightly angles left and right and helps the rollers get more of the lube. Obviously rear wheel off the ground for this to work.

[@jwarmerdam7578]

also helps get some grease on all cogs on the cassette to prevent any rust forming there.

[@michaelhayward7572]

@@jwarmerdam7578 not where i ride. My lube is either Muc Off or WD40 Dry lube. I ride 50/50 tarmac and dirt roads. After EVERY ride, even as little as 40k, the drivetrain gets washed, cleaned, dried, and lubed. No grease!

[@jwarmerdam7578]

@@michaelhayward7572 fair enough :) it's awfully wet here, so that's why i do it.

[@calada1212]

Im an engineer in rotating equipment (which spins from low rpm up to high rpm 100~10,000rpm) n we deals with troubleshooting problems mostly caused by malfunction from bearings n seals n my advice - clean ur bike but Dont Overdo It! Dont use any degreaser nearby bearings unless u want to overhaul.excessive usage will eat ur grease n seals which will make ur stuffs spin faster but yes it will wear extremely fast.remember, wear components will damage other components faster if left uncheck. For me I just relube with dry/light oil n wipe with rags few time.long last for full year

[@c.s.4273]

Soaking a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pulling the chain through it is all I do. That's it. Nothing else. Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions. No special expensive chain oil, chain wax and no degreaser or anything else needed. Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to its viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is. Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included. There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain. If you wipe off excess oil your chain stays clean. Oil has a very high ability to crawl everywhere, wiping off the surface causes no problem to the lubrication as the oil finds its way to the places where it is needed. So even a dry wiped chain is still lubricated inside and the oil stays there as long as it is not washed out. A dirty chain is a chain not wiped off properly and was too oily.

[@ABHI-dl4dc]

I do this way after every ride i spray some WD40 degreaser on a rag small amount only, then run the whole chain through it and then use a brush, after that i floss the cassette, chainring, and Pulley wheels then just hold the lube nozzle run the chain again (not putting the lube per roller just rotating the chain few drops) then let it set for some hours then i wipe it 😁🙂also after every week i clean my chain showed in this video .

[@rodneyzoo]

Thanks for your video instructions! Two questions: 1. Do you just throw away the rags you use, or somehow clean them? and reuse them? 2. Is degreaser environmentally ok to wash down by rain or down an outside drain? Thanks again!

[@stevenbell482]

Nice Tips, I usually let my bike dry off - after I dried it with a cloth, in my washing room - 25° at all times. The next day all is nice and dry and then I lube it up! Greets

[@softbingan]

Degreaser applied in this way will destroy the grease in those hard to reach, expensive areas like bearings in the bottom bracket and the cassette unit.

[@ranitbose9609]

What is a better way to apply the degreaser?

[@juanhuman6271]

Use a chain degreaser tool. This only gets degreaser on the chain. Then remove the wheel and apply on the casette.

[@TheNovaNorm]

A cheap, stiff brush that I use is a NEW toilet brush. The longer handle lets me stand behind the bike and ratchet the cassette with the brush. WD40 works miracles with this manner of cleaning. As you do it, watch the pedals go round backwards three revolutions and that means you've done the whole chain.

[@uralmutlu4320]

Do we have to rinse the degreaser? I sprayed the chain and the cassette with the degreaser and wiped it off, twice. I left it to dry overnight and I will apply the lube today. Im not sure if I should rinse it or not.

[@tmreyno]

Exactly how I do it. Also, I swap two chains. Use a sonic cleaner to soak them occasionally with added mild degreaser solution.

[@MattCantor21]

I’ve just bought an ultrasonic cleaning machine and a tub of Silca wax lube to dip my clean chain in, I don’t mind putting in the extra effort to get my chain and cassette spotless as it’ll prolong the performance and life of your components.

[@zlatkomustovic1147]

Hi GCN tech. I just wounder can you lubricate on top of chain roller and under pn each side? Or just lubricate on top ?

[@MichaelMa]

The degreaser is going to kill the grease in the freehub and bottom bracket. I just wipe with a cotton towel and then relube. Some lubes do an amazing job keeping grit out of the rollers. Never once did I think I needed a degreaser. If I have any grit, I use the lube itself to flush out the grit. RnR The Gold. I swear by this stuff.

[@jefferycampbell2243]

I prefer the R&R Blue myself, even for dry roads. It runs quieter and seems to last longer than Gold.

[@ljadf]

I've used gold for a while, but I always degrease beforehand. I might try skipping that step and see what happens.

[@johnnygabriel4730]

I'll try this thanks

[@corsatdr]

I have some doubts. I clean the chain with a degreaser and then lubricate the chain. I need to pass the chain through water after the degreaser? I need to wait for the chain to dry before lube? Natural or with air? Thanks

[@mwj5368]

So the chain cleaning tool like Park Tool makes that has the little brushes that cleans your chain is a waste of time and this method does a better job? I use "Simple Green" is that good? Thanks for this interesting video!

[@Gingerlion777]

I was always told not to go over the chain with a cloth after lubing. But i might give it a try

[@shanegreen2583]

How do you keep your chain brush maintained? Mine seems to just smear oil even though I use a degreaser on it

[@markreams3192]

Finish Line makes a brush called the “grunge brush” which cleans three sides of the chain at one. I find it very effective!

[@DustyMoth.]

Timely video..chain clean incoming tomorrow morning, so this is very handy. Cheers, Alex 👍

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

I am surprised by all the comments about “don’t spray…” because you’re harming the hub bearings and Bottom Bracket bearings. If you’re just spraying on the cassette and on the chainrings why are you people freaking out? Unless you’re riding sub-standard equipment there are lots of seals on hub bearings (which are buried way deep inside the freehub body and the wheel hub) same goes for your Bottom Bracket. Calm down people - how many of you have actually taken apart freehub bearings, hub bearings and Bottom Bracket bearings? I don’t mean removing them from the bike I mean actually taking them apart once removed from the bike? These units are very well sealed and provide excellent protection from water ingress etc. Breathe people 🧘‍♀️ this video is fraught with many issues but it’s not the spraying that’s the point of contention.

[@MarquitoRH]

Saved my typing

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

@@MarquitoRH 😂

[@climbinsimon]

Couldn’t agree more!

[@AndyLeeJordan]

Thank you 🙏

[@2NDFLB-OUNCE]

▪️ Okay, so what are the actual issues of the vid, then ? 🧊

[@ShakeNBakeUK]

now this is the kind of video my limited attention span can deal with :D

[@sandy_knight]

When you say 'degreaser' do you mean like a solvent degreaser or a bike-specific detergent? I'd be a little worried about solvent degreaser getting past my free hub bearing seals.

[@zoellar11]

Love this video. i thought it was my sproket making noise when recently riding but came home and wash the bike....and saw that the chairn was rusty and dirty. YUCK. I'm cleaning my chaing as soon as a I buy some chain lube oil. THANKS.

[@DeTaPix]

Last point about wiping of the chain after lubing can still lead to over-lubing. Ideally you'd: 1. lube 2. wipe 3. ride hard for a bit 4. wipe again

[@suxcesss]

I don't understand why overlubing is a problem? Cause dirt can easier accumulate?

[@traybuk]

@@suxcesss yea

[@omniyambot9876]

Exactly. I actually wipe my chain every ride and whenever I meet my bike chain for about 4 days after cleaning it and then just wipe it every week. It's super super clean and shiny. My chain is now 1 year old, slight stretch. But the degreaser spraying like a mad man and applying lube quickly is not a good idea.

[@BixbyConsequence]

That is indeed the step many miss. Riding causes some lube to seep out from the bushing interfaces, where it sits on the outer plates waiting for dirt to stick to it. I find it takes 4 or 5 cycles of riding and wiping to get to that "dry on the outside lubed on the inside" state of affairs which then lasts a long while in good weather.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

@@omniyambot9876 one year does not provide enough context. Please state miles/km ridden AND elevation gain. I ride minimum 10,000 miles AND climb 1,000,000 feet per year. I see a time reference given often for things like “I ride Gatoskins and haven’t had a flat in 2 years” and yet the person rides once a week and not even 50 miles. By the way, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that and it’s great the person is riding but it doesn’t provide enough context or tell a complete story.

[@RichChh]

one would think that a degreaser would dissolve grease/ oils etc, but pressure (not power washer pressure,) would be needed to get all the grit, together with the degreaser, out of the crevices of the chain.

[@Ed.R]

I've never understand how you ever get the degreaser and water out of the chain. Surely it can't be good mixed with the lub. I always use white spirit kept in a jar and reused. Finnish with a coating of hot wax. Only time my chain gets wet is when it rains. This method is a lot quicker though but I bet the chain doesn't last as long.

[@lechprotean]

the chain is going to wear out anyway and weather in the UK means it's going to be wet from rain every other day anyway. I still want to try the wax method, have you made your own mix or using premade wax?

[@Ed.R]

@@lechprotean It will still wear out but how clean it is inside makes some difference to its life. Very true in Wales most days are wet at the moment and wax isn't as water resistant. That's its biggest down side. Made so much worse by the vast amounts of salt spread on the roads. I just use old candles melted down. Did add a little engine oil to one mix but no idea if it made a difference.

[@KarlosEPM]

Adding oil or grease for sure makes a difference. I ride in Belgium (similar gray/rainy weather) and if I use only wax (candle) I get rusty spots on the chain. Do not over do it though. I eyeball it... about 25:1 wax to oil ratio. It shouldn't be brittle or smear easily... it should have the consistency chewed cool bubble gum you find under a child's desk except waxy and not sticky. :)

[@chocolate_squiggle]

That is not a 3 minute process, though.

[@KarlosEPM]

@@chocolate_squiggle Not at all. But it's way easier to clean after the first (long) setup. But yeah, it's only worth it if you ride long hours/distances frequently.

[@boatman222345]

If you can complete this chain clean/lube proceedure in under 3 minutes I've got a job for you as head mechanic on the Ferrari Formula 1 team! That said while this routine would suffice for a maintainence clean it fails to remove the most damaging grit from the inner surface of the chain. The only way to properly clean a chain thoroughly is to remove it from the bike and dip it in a solvent tank...I personally use kerosene as it's cheaper and just as good as expensive biocleaners and be used many times if you allow the sediment to settle and pour the clean kero into another container. Using water as a rinse is an invitation to corrosion as water and steel don't get along well. That said is you do use water the most effective means of drying the chain is to use a wet vac witht the crevice tool attached as this sucks water out of the inside of the links.

[@ABHI-dl4dc]

Can i use a hair dryer? 😅 To dry off the water after diping the chain in kerosene

[@pj9375]

I don’t use degreaser or water. Just a clean white rag to clean. When applying lube, you want to apply it to the internal part of the chain not the external as shown in this video. So lube on the bottom parallel nearest the ground not the top of the chain. Leave overnight, or pedal and wipe off excess. Wipe of chain after each ride, relube every 100miles. Done.

[@cajun2577]

Hi Alex and Ollie, love the show. I have Question regarding chains. Have you guys done an efficiency/ drive train plows test on Lubed vs. Waxed chains? Keep up the great content. Cajun from New Orleans

[@philipwaldman]

Started hot waxing my chains a year ago. Haven't looked back since. They hold up really well, especially on epic rides in the worst of British weather

[@casualguy393]

WD40 loses 2-3 watts over the very best waxes currently available, and is actually more efficient than most of the waxes.

[@PtWhiteBelt]

They haven't, but I'd look to independent, 3rd party testers like Zero Friction Cycling. Your bike-related lubing will never be the same.

[@casualguy393]

Here is 1 ... /watch?v=qinJjb8_nEs

[@retroonhisbikes]

What a great way to transfer road grit right inside the chain chains roller, Good tip. I’ll stick to waxing the chain, might take a bit longer but i do it less often

[@SDLearmonth]

isn't ideal for a wet country like most of the UK, especially up north

[@retroonhisbikes]

@@SDLearmonth i know. I avoid the wet, an ultrasonic bath is so much better at removing the grinding paste

[@casualguy393]

I use WD40, but be careful about waxes. Metal on metal grinding removes wax a lot quicker than people let on. It's hard to tell when it is gone because manufacturing tolerances are so precise now, but pay attention to it.

[@retroonhisbikes]

@@casualguy393 rewax every 300 miles

[@coletamburri425]

Is it April first?

[@CrasyFingers]

i usually spray it with a garden hose and wait overnight for it to dry then spray with heavy duty silicon lubricant is that good? or just i spray right away, i noticed some orange on my chain i don't know if it's rust or dirt

[@evieemaya88]

how often should you clean your clean an relube it? Is it do it after every ride or just if it gets muddy?

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Great video! You guys always have great content.

[@DeTaPix]

It is quicker and results in better result to remove the chain. 1. Remove the chain, wipe off, using toothbrush or similar clean in a small plastic container filled with degreaser to just submerge the chain 2. Let chain soak while cleaning components on the bike 3. Rinse the chain under warm/hot water and dry off with compressed air or hair drier. Much less mess and much better results.

[@lechprotean]

I guess both methods still require cleaning the cassette and chainrings but it's easier with the chain removed. Removing a dirty chain is messy in itself, I'd probably give it a wash beforehand anyway.

[@matteo.ceriotti]

Where do you do it? The dirty degreaser dripping out after cleaning the chain is some of the most staining things ever.

[@Dabelgi]

Hi can we do the same thing on ebike ? The degresser does damage the motor when it was in crankset ? Sorry for my bad english îm french 🤣

[@a.nick20]

Thank you 👍

[@thegrowl2210]

I would rather take an hour and clean the drivetrain throughly, and wipe off any excess after the first ride with the freshly lubed chain, as I find I can't get all the excess out initially by just backpedalling. Keeps the chain relatively clean for longer, doesn't get nearly as much black gunk all over the pulley wheels and between the links, and keeps the chain running smoothly for a good amount of time. Take the time to lube each link individually and save yourself money in chain and lube as well. I don't clean after every ride, and things work well for me.

[@Ricobass0]

What about if you use a waxy lube like Squirt? A degreaser won't touch that.....and... how did you prevent getting dirty degreaser all over your rear rim and tyre?

[@SlingsAxes]

2:15 Why are we applying lube to the outside of the chain?

[@aabrothersID]

Is that okay to spray degreaser directly to the cassette and roller? Wont it get into and "destroy" inside?

[@hasanhamdan3966]

Hello, I am very afraid to clean dust and mud off my chain, free wheel, and cassette, specially using water because a lot warned me not to use water specially around the front and rear hubs, and near the bottom bracket because water can destroy the inner grease and may causes rust, an help please!?

[@supnongl]

If you're a fair weather cyclist then run multiple chains and wax them. No more degreasing, no more running your chain through a stupid chain cleaner. Bike stays cleaner and with multiple waxed chains you can rewax at a time that doesn't clash with riding.

[@Membrillo81]

I've just moved to hot waxing. Only ridden 30km so far because of reasons. So far so good. I'll wax one or two more chains if it convince me.

[@tomahoks]

Chain cleaner….I'm gonna buy one, thanks for the tip.

[@remitournier2526]

I've been doing that for close to a year. I live in northern France and ride in all weather. Never degreased my drivetrain again. Wax is at its best when it's muddy, it doesn't attract dirt. Rince with a hose and a bit of soap and a soft brush. Dirty ride = bike fully cleaned in 5 to 10 minutes effortlessly. Swap chain if it really was wet and mucky, otherwise every 200-300km. Your drivetrain will last forever and it's the lowest friction possible, backed up by numerous independant research. A definite game changer for me. However it's not best suited for ultra endurance riders...

[@jamesshepherd9154]

I second this, waxing is the best!

[@isaacyoung1868]

I'm doing this for the last two years.. only 2 things i don't like about it is how the wax accumulates on my cassettes and how the wax shavings tend to make my training mat look really grungy and requires frequent vacuuming. But it's a small price to pay Other annoying thing is that i generally have no idea when it's time to swap the chains.. like, i don't want to wait too long and worry that it's lost its lubricating power and the chain is grinding and i don't want to do it too soon because that's more work and would defeat the main point

[@rainbowios98]

I lube every two roller because if you start to over lube the chain and starts to build dust and small rocks which you have to keep wiping off

[@massaka17]

That's what the last step is for: use a rag to remove the excess of lube which would only work as a magnet for dirt.

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

A fine toothbrush to brush the links after applying degreaser will help as well.

[@danielhertercasagrande1686]

I prefer to put WD40 on a a cloth and pass the chain through - spraying degreaser will destroy the grease inside between bolts and rollers - as oil is thicker than solvant it is not given that new lubrification reaches all these places and cleaning is much quicker - disadvantage chain looks not always 100% clean but only 95

[@stephentait8734]

#askgcntech: are all greases created equally? how do ti know if i have got the right grease for my freehub, as Mavic are saying to use there mavic branded ID360 grease, or can i use other grease. thanks

[@Bjorntveitan]

easy as possible and quick 🌈

[@worldninjasport]

Thank you!

[@doggaki]

So good video...!!😀😀

[@seel1823]

Is that brush necessary? I don't have one

[@operabuff1949]

Great video!!!

[@philipwaldman]

Hot wax! Nuff said..

[@MohdAdrian]

Bike protect before lube?

[@moonknite1]

Can you change out the seat?

[@melvinkuhh]

In the winter on my commute bike I have issues with my chain rusting even though it is waxed, do you guys have a good fix for a rusty chain? I always dry and relube after a wet ride btw.

[@casualguy3938]

It doesn't take long for wax to rub off when you have 2 metal surfaces rubbing together. It is rusting because the wax (protectant) is gone. Try WD40. It lubes the rollers, and even after you back pedal while wiping with a towel, it leaves a very thin film on the chain and thereby preventing it from rusting. Also, since the rollers are coated with WD40 it is impossible for water to get and stay inside. I easily get 15,000km out of a chain in dry conditions, so you should be able to get at least 8-10K in wet conditions.

[@casualguy393]

Use WD40. Your chain will never rust again.

[@melvinkuhh]

@@casualguy393 thx man

[@casualguy393]

@@melvinkuhh YW braddah. Waxing can be great if you have time and are meticulous about chain maintenance. I used to work on salt water fishing boats where we tried wax on some steel surfaces, but it never protected them for any appreciable amount of time. Especially metal on metal friction is going to wear the wax off incredibly fast. Much faster than people realize. The very best wax we used couldn't protect the steel for even a month when all we did was spray the boat every day with fresh water and dry it off with a soft towels. Now think of how much more friction your chain gets after pedaling it for 1000s of revolutions. It might have chunks of wax outside, but I bet those rollers are cleared of wax shortly. The smoothness in rotation is probably more to good tolerances with excellent chain manufacturing. The chain only starts making noise or feeling dry once corrosion (rust) sets in. Connex makes a stainless steel chain, but virtually all the rest are going to get rust on the rollers. Then you are screwed because the rollers are going to get pitted even if you remove the rust. Simply put, WD40 prevents that by making a barrier between the metal and oxygen without being so thick to cause excessive driveline friction. Plus, it's cheap and easy to apply in a couple of minutes without removing the chain.

[@bewster7]

Yay another cleaning video

[@As2ronaut]

Please do an indoor version of chain cleaning, you can’t do it same way in 3 minutes without a dirty mess and further cleanup the corridor.

[@glennet9613]

Good question. I live in an apartment and nobody will appreciate me cleaning the chain even outside. I wash the bikes on the bike rack in a car wash, but cleaning the chain all I can do is wipe the dirt off with a rag and lightly oil it.

[@ivygee6507]

very informative! i'll give it a try ☺️

[@shaunjasper5465]

Would you do it in the same way with disc brakes? Or would you need to be more careful as the disc can get contaminated?

[@sir.bendover3299]

More careful

[@thedtnewt]

What kinda shoes are those?

[@stevefraser7501]

Don't wet lube at all - use wax! As a dry lube, it's always clean and prevents dirt grinding away your chain and cassette.

[@MrWaggerz]

Same goes for spray on degreaser, pretty much a sure fire way to destroy you free hub.

[@jamesparsons9437]

@Mark Law Just mix paraffin wax with teflon, see the youtube channel 'oz cycle'

[@massaka17]

@Mark Law squirt is good

[@antoniolaza736]

@Mark Law i just melt some paraffin wax and i'm ready to go (i couldn't find teflon to protect it from rusting but as long as you clean and dry it after wet rides you are good to go) i bought 500g of paraffin wax at smt around 4 euro, it's not expensive at all and you can easily reuse it just first watch a tutorial because you need to deep degrease the chain, good luck

[@MattCantor21]

I use Silca Super Secret wax lube.

[@sideshowdrummer]

So this degreaser can I buy that anywhere does it have to say for a bike or is it just a degreaser for anything?

[@albert_parera]

Is it necessary to clean the excess of lube?

[@Talos353]

Yes, the lube is for the inside your chain links and nowhere else really. The lube on the outside of the chain just attracts dirt.

[@albert_parera]

@@Talos353 thanks!!!

[@antoniolaza736]

if you don't want the excess lube to attract all the dust and turn your bike into black panther, then yes, you should clean the excess lube

[@HYP3RK1NECT]

Hay que tener cuidado ese tipo de limpieza "express". Por que si le echas poco agente limpiador, no se limpiará correctamente y el aceite nuevo se contamina con el viejo y otras impurezas. Y por el contrario si se le echa mucho, se penetrará en la maza trasera o el motor, apelmazando la grasa interna de la misma y dejando pegado los perros (trinquetes) del núcleo. Lo mejor para limpiar la transmisión es remover el cassette, la cadena, las roldanas y el volante o juego de bielas, limpiar profundamente y colocar los componentes en su sitio con la aplicación de grasa para los puntos de movimiento y apriete, y aceite nuevo para la cadena.

[@TK-ov4hn]

I would like to see a GCN debate between chain waxing and petroleum lube. I am leaning toward wax.

[@trepidati0n533]

Depends on who has deeper pockets unfortunately. If they really went into it then GCN could really only endorse waxing in terms of cost/performance.

[@TK-ov4hn]

@@trepidati0n533 that’s kind of what I thought. I guess they have to pay the bills. I am just really tired of how fast chain lube gets black and nasty.

[@casualguy3938]

Check FastFitnessTips here on KZbin. He proved that WD40 is only 2-3 watts slower than the very best waxes currently available, and it doesn't require any special tools or equipment to apply. Metal on metal grinding removes wax a lot more quickly than many people let on, but you won't grind off WD40. Plus, "WD" stands for Water Displacement, meaning your chain will never ever ever ever rust. I spray it on, backpedal, wipe it off. I use a brush if there is still grime on the inside plates, but sometimes I even use a little bit of water pressure to force it out, then spray with WD40 again.

[@casualguy393]

FastFitnessTips showed that WD40 is only 2-3 watts slower than the very best waxes. Easy to apply, cheap, displaces water so there is no rusting, and all you need is a rag.

[@trepidati0n533]

@@casualguy393 The WD-40 does not get the dirt out from the actual link of the chain which is where almost all critical wear happens. Most people who wax will get 10,000 km out of a chain and never replace their cassette or crank....no other system can even come close to boasting that.

[@chrisridesbicycles]

I have my road bike on the indoor trainer for months and I use a indoor specific white lube. However the chain still gets covered in black dirt after a week. Why is that?

[@kisielekrlz]

My guess is that those are remains of old lube and dirt from the past oitdoor rides.

[@lechprotean]

the dust sticks to it. consider wax or some other type of dry lube and don't use too much

[@antoniolaza736]

even indoor you still have particles of dust, that's why, they just stick to the chain, it is what it is after all

[@arifazhari7598]

I use WD-40 like simon say and do. I am done in 30 seconds. Spray, wash , spray done.

[@DancingMachine1]

Oh WD-40 also works as a degreaser? Didn't know that. Will try, thanks!

[@arifazhari7598]

@@DancingMachine1 actually WD-40 it self has some degreaser specific product. WD-40 original formula mosty work as grime remover then you must apply second application for lubrication. It won't last long but enough for short ride.

[@MarquitoRH]

WD stands for WATER DISPERSANT developed by NASA. This was their 40th recipe

[@casualguy3938]

Smart man. WD40 repels water thereby preventing rust, and works well as a lube. It has been scientifically proven by FastFitnessTips to be only 2-3 watts slower than the very best waxes currently available(it's actually faster than most of the waxes), and it doesn't require any special tools or equipment to apply. Just a can of WD40 and a rag used every 200-400km depending on how wet and dirty your rides are.

[@cipo36an203]

This is a terrible a piece of advise… that’s totally cosmetic at best. By doing as shown, you are not removing any of the contamination causing wear once it penetrated in between the plates or under the rollers . There is no 3’ solution. As a side note the muck-off products used to lubricate have been lab-tested terrible by zero friction cycling.

[@ebikescrapper3925]

I make my own chain degreaser - one part liquid soap, one part white vinegar, one part isopropyl alcohol and a dash of lemon juice. Apply to chain then use a wet non stratch dishwashing scrubber then give the chain a good clean. Rinse with plenty of water, wipe chain down, apply oil then wipe chain down again. In my opinion the spray degreaser is a waste if money.

[@RandomApina]

According to Finnish enviroment laws, using degreaser that way can get you fined or imprisoned for up to six months

[@2010-paswg]

that’s crazy. i wonder why.

[@R900DZ]

What do you propose instead ?

[@theforgottenbrawlers]

thanks.

[@Mirrorwriter]

That is fast! However, spraying that much degreaser into your bottom bracket and into you wheel bearings hurts my eyes. Take the weel off at least.

[@ericgasparro2545]

Wait is that a rim brake bike? 😍🥰😘

[@armadillito]

Surely you can't relubricate a chain 1 minute after rinsing it? I would want to leave it at least an hour or two

[@lechprotean]

if you you dry it reasonably well, it's better to lube straight away - prevent rust from forming. Air compressor is a good option to dry the chain.

[@casualguy393]

I spray WD40 on it before cleaning and backpedal to get it inside the rollers. Since WD is a "Water Displacer" spraying with a bit of water afterwards is perfectly fine. Wrap a towel around the chain and backpedal again to remove most of the excess WD40, leaving only a thin film on the outside is good for 200-500km depending on the weather conditions.

[@laurafegely2662]

This bike was really easy to assemble kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.

[@halfred8011]

I prefer using an old toothbrush + Gun oil to clean my gears/chain and regrease it using another toothbrush with greased applied to it

[@ShepherdsChapelonYT]

Theseasonorg explains the whole Bible. God bless.

[@uphillfreewheeler]

It's much better to apply the chain lube to the bottom section of the chain.

[@MarquitoRH]

For all the people terrified about bearing damage watch Simon’s video where he deliberately tried to get water ingress using a HP jet washer. And then form you own conclusions.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Ah yes I remember that video! Thank You Marc

[@jasonleslie6366]

Hose pipe? Surprised to hear this from an English gentleman rather than one of my locals here in the Deep South of the USA. Lol!

[@alanscyclingadventures4945]

Personally, I use a degreaser that doesn’t require a rinse. It completely evaporates in about 30 seconds to a minute and leaves the chain nice and dry.

[@backuptimmy4124]

Could you suggest what degreaser is that?

[@stevek8829]

How does the grease evaporate?

[@alanscyclingadventures4945]

@@stevek8829 the degreaser rinses it off while it’s liquid, then quickly evaporates, leaving behind a clean and dry chain.

[@alanscyclingadventures4945]

@Yippee Skippy I posted the name of the product in a reply and it was deleted, so I guess that isn’t allowed. (Moderators, if it IS allowed, let me know and I’ll edit my original post.)

[@ljadf]

Hmm, GCN might frown on advertising a different degreaser on their Muc off advert. We're all slaves to our sponsor overlords.

[@MellowYellowCJ7]

After I degrease and wipe the chain, I run my chain through a Park Tool chain cleaner with Alcohol to rinse off any remaining water, then I wipe again and lube. Let it sit while doing something else, then I wipe again.

[@casualguy393]

Perfect. I do something similar with WD40.

[@Jari1973]

One question for everyone! Which one is better: Do this after every ride? Or wax the chains?

[@trepidati0n533]

If you learn how to wax efficiently, always wax. In the end it actually saves you money.

[@antoniolaza736]

as long as you don't have to ride in wet conditions wax for the win, also you can wax a few chains at once and just swap them when you have too, less time spent on melting wax, the downside, tracking the milleage (not such a big deal, just use an chain wear tool though) chain cleaner, less money, less overall time, long lasting chain, less power lost, more milleage between cleanings, just give the fresh chain 15-30 mins on the first ride after waxing to get rid of the extra wax and everything is fine (in indoor using, i recommend using a huge mat to avoid wax going everywhere, still better than lube though)

[@casualguy3938]

WD40. It repels water and stays on longer than wax. It is only 2-3w slower than the very best wax, and using WD40 doesn't require anything but a towel to wipe off the excess.

[@casualguy393]

Use WD40. it displaces water, is easy to apply, is cheap, and only 2-3 watts slower than the very best waxes.

[@Jari1973]

@@casualguy393 That was good :) !

[@MSWW]

Wax for me. Clean + longer lifetime. Never going back.

[@otroleonarbe]

What about polluting the environment when you wash out the degreaser?

[@dvdp4513]

THE way to go if you like to shorten the life of your bearings! (Strange that GCN promotes this kind of maintenance).

[@RuiPedroRocha]

Just a couple of questions: - how about using degreaser on a disk brake bicycle? - how to dry the cassette (and chainrings)?

[@matthewbaynham6286]

Never clean it, I just add oil and it's a black gunky mess but the wheels keep turning.

[@kuanhau4323]

Are you serious with this video? I thought it was a joke when I saw it. Videos by Si 7 years ago were light years ahead of this.

[@janmertens3792]

Wrong title for the video. it should be: How to clean a bike chain that is already clean in less than 3 minutes. Why didn't you use a real dirty chain for the demonstration? For example after a 180km ride in wet and dirty conditions. Because that is what i really want to see.

[@grege8420]

Last time I used degreaser this way, I ruined my bearings... Now, I am using wax...