How To Clean Your Scuba Regulator

[@bloodymarvelous4790]

The great thing about the MTX-R and the MTX-RC is that you can easily take the front cover off. That makes cleaning the inside a lot easier. It'll also give you access to the mushroom valve.

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

Yeah, they were designed for easy maintenance in the field. No fiddly pin you need to remove or smooth front cover that needs a tool to unscrew to get inside

[@paulbaratta1566]

Great video, getting still in the 30s F here in New England USA and water temp 40 degrees! Bringing in my regulator for annual tune up next week. Can’t wait for April, no dry suit diving for me!

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

Looking forward to the end of this month when we can get back to diving as we come out of lockdown.

[@mcoop571]

Dive shop owner told me years ago to NEVER put a second stage underwater without the regulator actually pressurized, and NEVER let the second stage go above the first stage when everything is still wet. I have gotten used to washing it thoroughly beside the tank in a five gallon bucket, then removing it and carry/hang it by the first stage to dry for a few days, again never letting the first stage get “below” the second.

[@diveinstructordaniel1095]

I would really appreciate a video about how to clean Drysuits properly 👌 great video

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

Good idea!

[@burakkrayoglu8534]

It is easy to pull apeks hose protectors. Yet I can't move the mares BCD inflator hose protector, no matter how hard I pull. I see you have the same BCD inflator hose. How do you move the Mares hose protector which is on the BCD inflator hose?

[@ronszarzynski5981]

How do you like the MTX-RC? I am in the process of buying my first regulator and am between the XTX50 and the MTX-RC.

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

I have an MTX-R and and MTX-RC and love them both, but to be brutally honest, you cannot go wrong with an XTX50 - proper trusty workhorse.

[@ronszarzynski5981]

Thanks for the feed back. I learned to dive on the XTX50 and like it, I like things you don’t see everywhere which is why I’m leaning towards the MTR-RC, plus I live in Illinois so there is cold water diving in my future but also warm water diving when I travel. Just wasn’t sure if the extra cost was worth it. There are not a lot of owner reviews out there online which has me a little worried, but that’s probably because the regulator is over kill for most divers.

[@ellvis6897]

@@ronszarzynski5981 the MTX RC is hella sexy I have a couple of pairs and their bulletproof, performance is exceptional never had any issues atall either. Go for the bling my friend stand out

[@ronszarzynski5981]

@Ellis thanks for the advice that’s my main draw to it. Have you dive it in warm water, does it work well in it with the adjustments backed off?

[@ellvis6897]

@@ronszarzynski5981 I dive primarily in the UK in freshwater and salt from around 3°C to 18°C, you will have no problems atall in warmer water, the adjustments are great and you can fine tune to your personal preference. Very easy breathe when fully open. The MTX RC are my joint favourite Regs aswell as my Tungstens, the MTX rotating turret is great for hose routing though :)

[@Chogogo717]

So, I see there’s a little salt residue on the end of the regulator that butts up against the tang o-ring (yoke regulator). They always say to have your dust cap installed when submerging your refs, so how do you clean that up?

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

I used to wipe round that rim with a damp cloth, and then a dry cloth, to get that little bit of salt residue gone. But all my regs are now DIN fitting, which is a far-superior fitting anyway, and you don't have that issue.

[@Chogogo717]

@@ScubaDiverMagazine yeah, I’m regretting not getting DIN as much as I’m regretting not getting a metric SPG. So much easier to do the math in metric for dive planning.

[@marineboyocean]

That is an old wives tale ! Water can not enter the hose if you press the purge valve as long as the dust cap is on the first stage and the hose connected to the first stage and the first stage is kept higher than the second stage. It’s basic physics. Water cannot enter with out displacing air.

[@ScubaDiverMagazine]

I have had that brayed into me by several senior service technicians. I think perhaps the main issue is you see people depress the purge button and then vigorously slosh their second stage around in the rinse tank, and you see plenty of bubbles coming out of the reg as they do it, so water must be getting in while they are doing that.

[@DiveMonster]

wouldn´t basic physics also account for the pressure of the water, even in a 30 cm water barrel it would compress the air, and a (very) small amount of water would enter, and remain there after the purge is released? Seems like the old wives paid more attention in basic physics and preferred, not to have any water and moisture inside during storage time of the regs. 😉

[@marineboyocean]

@@DiveMonster You obviously don’t understand Physics! They are just the Facts.

[@DiveMonster]

@@marineboyocean exactly... I agree that physics are facts. therefore you have to calculate with the water pressure, even your reg is just 30cm deep in a bucket. As a diver you really should know better... well I guess you are "just" a free diver ... that would explain :-) A diver would know the pressure stuff since chapter 1 of his/her very first dive course. Some manuals even have graphics to that. Take a glass upside down to 30 cm and you see that water already compresses the air. That would be the water which also could enter your 2nd stage and hose. So yeah, the old wives and each diver who paid a bit attention to their first course will understand that.

[@bloodymarvelous4790]

@@marineboyocean Water will get into the hose when you depress the purge valve on an unpressurized regulator. That bit of water will turn into vapor, and will get to your first stage where it will condensate and start corroding vital parts. But you're free to do it your way of course. Nobody's going to stop you.

[@71sagittarius]

Don't press purge... water in the hose... Easy solution. Just disconnect and dry them. Job done safely.