wee did this route 2 weeks ago. It took us 9 hours, included taking the wrong way on the 3 60m traverse, we didnt have a good guide book, so we climbed straight up, then downclimbed again, simu climbed the traverse, due to only 55m long ropes. Maybe because of a bad guide book, but i found route finding in the route very tiring. There are some hightlight pitches on the route, however on the second half of the wall you do so much annoyingly easy, hard route finding pitches that there are way better multipitch routes in the dolos. Scenery is great though. imo they should have saved some bolts on the first half of the wall and used them on the second. bolting made little sense in this route.
@Cragcloud5 жыл бұрын
I agree! I lead both 4c slab pitches at (10th and 11th pitch) and I navigated by some ropethread another climber had left behind. There where only a couple of bolts on these pitches - and they were pretty long! I don't mind climbing with run-out as long as I know where to go - and that was not pretty clear. I led the 15th pitch too, which is 5c and follows a dihedral. It was a great and fun pitch, but midway the route breaks left and exits the dihedral. There is a bot on the face you exit to about 3-4 meters from the dihedral, so it is pretty hard to spot. You should definitely count in added route-finding time. But as you saym the scenery is amazing, and it is still a fun climb :)
@HochstartHarry Жыл бұрын
Im ok with runouts, since im from saxon swiss, but i doubt we could do it in less than a day, it took me 4h to climb a 7 pitch trad mixed route with one of my buddies, but i lead all those. If we get a nice system going where my other buddy leads aswell and we keep buddy 2 in the middle i think 4h for 10 pitches should be doable. Id really love to throw myself at it, sounds right up my alley. Any things i should be aware of? Bad rock quality ect?