How To Clock Threaded Components --- Shop Gem !!

[@joepie221]

For anyone planning on leaving a comment about the corrosion factor or thermal expansion properties of aluminum...Don't. This engine will never see steam or the moisture associated with it. It will be tested and run on compressed air. Thanks.

[@jamesdavis8021]

I have built four steam engines and, I have never run them on anything but air.Boilers and live steam are not something I want to play around with.Just my thoughts .

[@scorpion2nz]

@@jamesdavis8021. Well then you do not build steam engines . A steam engine is only a steam engine when it runs on steam

[@BensWorkshop]

It's a shame it'll never run on steam. Still, your engine, your rules.

[@Sodabowski]

Whatever, this won't be in a life-supporting application anytime soon.

[@oldtractors]

I restore full size (10" bore) and half size (5" bore) steam engines with aluminum pistons, cast iron rings, cast iron cylinders. They work fine, but what do I know?

[@gjkozy]

Great tip Joe, I used to watch my dad use this trick to clock gun barrels to receivers.

[@jamesdavis8021]

I went to the channel you recommended. I am very impressed with his work.When someone takes the time to lap his tools,you know he is serious about wood carving.His patience is phenomenal.

[@joepie221]

People that can do that type of hand carving just amaze me. He is very talented.

[@tomondulich8113]

i did your method for threading blind holes. worked like a charm. thanks for all your posts. they aren't in vain

[@kendog4570]

Hey Joe! I do this all the time when indexing fluted rifle barrels and various muzzle devices. Have several cheat sheets on hand for the various thread pitches I usually work with. 16, 20,24,28, etc. Your vid confirms I am thinking straight!

[@joepie221]

This technique is perfect for that application.

[@larrysperling8801]

i use a similar technique to clock gun barrels . i assemble the parts then put a witness mark on the two parts. unscrew the parts one full turn to line up the witness lines again. put a dial indicator on one of the parts zero the indicator and turn the two parts into alignment.the amount you need to remove will be the indicator reading. sneak up on that reading.

[@generessler6282]

Hey Joe. You _really_ need to add "Let's do it" to your tee shirts. Seriously... I enjoy these videos immensely. My dad was a machinist among ~10 other trades. Your approach reminds me of his, rest his soul. Thanks for that.

[@joepie221]

Thats a nice compliment. I miss my Dad as well. Thanks.

[@stratocaster1greg]

Joe those parts are beautiful. I made 3 copper washers yesterday for brass bolts holding door frame to boiler.

[@dolata000]

Very kind of you to give Mssr Gautier a shout-out. His work is indeed quite impressive.

[@daveticehurst4191]

Joe, another time do not bother with the aluminium washers. Make some copper ones and anneal them, much better at compressing than aluminium. Regards from Australia.

[@jamesdavis8021]

I agree.Copper,once annealed,will seal better and,not degrade.

[@darrellabell8380]

Thanks Joe for all the awesome and informational projects you meticulously do. Thanks for all you do! Can't wait to see it all working.

[@joepie221]

Check back later today.

[@cameronmccreary4758]

I used to clock threads with the barrels for the P08 Luger pistol. The threads had to be tight a quarter of the way before torque. They were also very slightly tapered.

[@chrisstephens6673]

If you did the same but stopped at the thread diameter, the little ledge left would centralise the washer. Sometimes when a fibre washer is used in a situation like this it gets pushed off centre and bursts out.

[@bobguarnieri280]

I've used this approach many times, works great. You can also try and swap the parts around as the thread start location on each part (male and female) is different.

[@pirminkogleck4056]

HEY JOE ! THE SERIES IS ALREADY A LEGEND ! I LOVE IT ! thx for your time and effort !

[@robertlark7751]

Have used this technique many times. Always happy with the results.

[@joepie221]

Excellent

[@DavidHerscher]

I friggin love the new intro. Reminds me of a classroom edutainment video from the 90s. Fits the channel perfectly. I realize it's not "new" new at this point, but I wanted to point it out.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Mission accomplished.

[@StuartsShed]

Brilliant shop tip as always. I have clocked threads using that technique before - really great to see it presented so clearly.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@roberthiggins1142]

As always you shop gems are just awesome. I cant wait to see the final build.

[@joepie221]

Finished it last night. I'm very pleased with the result. Video will post later today.

[@3gunshooter60]

I've done this on muzzel breaks and barrels into the action, but I've never done it on something that small. Good work sir.

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@dwayneruthig242]

Good tip, Joe. I'm a woodworker and have wondered how to do this on wooden threads.

[@bt410382]

with every new video, I learn something. thank you.

[@mikepelelo5657]

Good practical shop engineering using simple math. Thanks for the video Joe!

[@Halli50]

I just love these little gold nugget tips!

[@skwyrz1]

I learn a lot from your video's, I would learn tons from one showing your mistakes and why they happened. I hope one day you will compile such a video? Unless of course you never have made any mistakes and I am still waiting to meet that guy.

[@joepie221]

The only mistake I made on this engine was the steam chest cover bolt pattern. I made it square by overlooking a crowded dimension. Not a big deal. But I did make a mistake once. ---- I thought I made a mistake but didn't. :)

[@mrc1539]

Have been clocking threads by guess and golly for ever , never dawned on me there could be such a simple solution. Thanks so much for the tip . ( another big flat spot on my forehead 😂 )

[@joepie221]

Save room... :)

[@kevinhillgrenjr2248]

I use a shim kit with different thickness copper washers in it.

[@maxmclanahan6821]

As always joe when a common problem comes up on something that does not fit just right and you aske your self what can i do to make it right I say go aske Joe Pie . Esperance speaks volumes . Thanks again Joe

[@joepie221]

Glad to help.

[@stumccabe]

That's certainly the most elegant solution. Thanks Joe.

[@paralleler]

As with all your work, his was great! Thank you! It's even more fun when you have multiple valves, elbows, and pipes like with a water glass on a boiler. During the dry fit, I'd try to tweak components with a the tap and die. Challenges challenges...

[@GoCreatehms]

Adding a chamfer to one side of the thread relief groove, the side opposite to the thread, so that the max chamfer diameter is the thread outside diameter, then the chamfer centralises the sealing washer when the fitting is tightened. I.E. the grooving tool will be chamfered on the left side to form the thread relief groove leaving a chamfer groove. Hard to explain without a picture so hopefully you follow what I mean. This is a great build, I built the single cylinder version many years ago.

[@ikkentonda]

Nice tip, but shhhh … Joe was likely hoping nobody would notice the off-axis washer after so carefully torquing the part into perfect alignment. 😉 It takes a brave and skilled man to display their work in tight closeups on the internet!

[@edwardhugus2772]

Thank you for the link! That was an amazing piece of artwork. I may have been good at my job, but that is a skill set I never had sadly. Thanks for the clocking refresher also. I think a good refresher if youre interested would be cleaning up existing threads on the lathe....getting the tool to start in an existing thread (either to clean them up or extend their length if needed)

[@joepie221]

That guy is a true craftsman. I do have a video on chasing and repairing old threads.

[@edwardhugus2772]

@@joepie221 ok, I'll look. Thanks!

[@TomokosEnterprize]

JOE ! Great to see you mid week with some tips and tricks, schooling or refreshing old once known but forgotten old dogs. Over time (many years) we get a feel for adjustments like this is fine but it is always not like riding a bike so we need instructors like you to give us a pat on the back with a remember when, eh, remember and when the cobwebs get cleared and awayyyyy we go, LOL. Thanks a bunch and these two look just like a machinist made them. They realty are good lookin pieces eh! ONWARD MY FRIEND !

[@petergamache5368]

This is another one for the bookmarks! Thanks, Joe!

[@glencrandall7051]

That appeared to be rather simple. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

[@charlottewilcox4406]

Hello Joe, great tip, and Sylvian is a true craftsman like you, another great tip.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Interesting subject. Time 04:23. Oh, that calls for "feeling", experience, how much torque the brass thread will handle without collapsing.

[@joepie221]

"The Feel" is a very important part of this trade for sure. My buddy Chet taught me that very early on.

[@scottthornton9237]

I always wondered how great gunsmiths got the screws to align on every screw! Now I know. Thanks Joe!

[@joepie221]

You Bet.

[@EIBBOR2654]

There is one other shim that you could use that are used on aircraft. In the USAF it was called "Peal Shim" but it is also called "Laminated" Or "Layered" shim. They come in a variety of materials Aluminum, Brass, copper, carbon steel, stainless, titanium, Plastic and more from a number of sources like McMaster-Carr and local supply places. They can be bought as washers, sheets or ordered in shapes. The peel layer thickness is usually .002" or .003", but I've seen them made with .001" layers. The peel washers can be used like crush washers depending on the material they are made from. The only problem I've seen with this peel shim is that you might have to experiment a little if there are torque specs and height requirements as they tend to crush or squeeze down a little more because of the glue layer. I've used the peel shim to level parts on a mill to level odd shaped parts or to help hold difficult parts in a vise. All of your info was good, I've had to use the same formulas rifle barrels and to figure how much on turn on a screw till move for and adjustment.

[@joepie221]

Interesting. I'll have to look into peel shims.

[@shadowmanxyz7805]

Thanks for the video. Very informative. Looks like you have a good quality part seeing how you had to torque it to its vertical position. Now its secure giving great quality fit.

[@joepie221]

It all ended well.

[@ikkentonda]

Particularly useful for clocking ball handle lever arms. Build a Quorn if you want LOTS of practice. The hardest part is figuring out where you want to clock them!

[@ChrisB257]

Math (and skill) wins the day again! :)

[@roadshowautosports]

As usual you prove that you’re surveying my home! I think of “how people do this, how they do that” and there he comes with a solution! My privacy has been breached and my lawyer will contact you!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Thank you for yet another simple solution vídeo! Happy 4th!!!

[@Rustinox]

And again, a very useful tip.

[@raymondhorvatin1050]

great tip very precise

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@2lefThumbs]

Nice job Joe👍 I *was* wincing when you decided just to torque the first one in though😂

[@joepie221]

i could feel the washer. It was no too risky.

[@brucewood8046]

Ah, just in time! I have to clock a crank handle tomorrow! Thanks, Joe! Woody

[@joepie221]

Good luck!

[@brucewood8046]

@@joepie221 Got 'er done! Thanx again!

[@samec88]

Nice to see the model engineering 6" Adjustable in use. Great work as usual

[@joepie221]

May have been my 4"

[@rexmyers991]

So very clever yet so obvious. Wish I’D thought of this solution.

[@BeeGeeTheImp]

I learned something new. TYVM, Joe.

[@angelramos-2005]

Fair and square.Thank you,Joe

[@joepie221]

It is now. :)

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍 that is a very useful technique.

[@johnwinter9399]

i have this problem with coolant pipe elbows on VDI tool holders, i usually just pack it with a spacer until it turns to the right spot. It would be nice to do something like this as a more elegant solution

[@mathewmolk2089]

A trick that I WILL using. Thanx, Joe.

[@lonnalachner7344]

Always learning ❤

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks for the tips!

[@Enigma-Sapiens]

Excellent video and How-To Joe, thank you!

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good video mr joe pie

[@ajosepi1976]

All great tips, but I think you missed one. If you have multiple parts that are the same that need clocked, try them in different positions first. You may get lucky. Great video.

[@patrickmazzone9066]

Excellent tip thanks

[@ron827]

EXCELLENT application of simple math again. BTW, I believe "unloosen" would be tightening just as "unthawing" is freezing. :-)

[@joepie221]

Its actually a real word. Just not commonly used. Google it. Quite popular in the NE US.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Pretty neat! Think I would have assembled in the round, marked out, and then machined the flange ears. But this way looks more professional.

[@dougberrett8094]

Very cool Joe. Now try doing it on a tool joint that gets torqued to 70,000 ft. lbs. Same process with one additional step. You need to measure the amount of twist you gain from the box expanding and the pin elongating. Did this years ago in the oil patch. Make up the joint to just touching, apply full torque, measure the angle, then apply this to the timing or clocking calculations.

[@joepie221]

I'll pass

[@dougberrett8094]

@@joepie221 I don’t blame you. I did not mention that the threads were tapered on a shouldered connection. Timing had to be cut into the treads rather than fixed after. Had to meet API stand-off requirements on both ends.

[@paulmorrey4298]

Thanks Joe

[@matthewfolbre1635]

I've actually done all of what you mentioned before at one time or another.

[@michaelryan6884]

Nice advice, Joe! Stay cool!

[@joepie221]

Trying.

[@ghl3488]

So, tightening until you hear a crack and then turning the part back a quarter of a turn isn't the right way? Where is my calculator then. Thanks Joe. Regards from Wales

[@joepie221]

I see you're feeling better. :)

[@ghl3488]

@@joepie221 Yes, thanks Joe. I'm having a go and still kicking. There is no alternative! regards Gareth

[@dieselguy62]

How hard would it be. To change where the thread starts on the part? which should change the clocking of it. Probably way more work than it's worth when it's ready to alter the face or the shim. I used to have boxes of shim washers like that in various thicknesses. Used them daily rebuilding fuel system parts

[@thingmaker3]

Cool trick! Is there any way to do something similar with pipe threads?

[@joepie221]

Heavy torque or go get the tap and go deeper.

[@donaldsimonds7513]

Good thanks 😊

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Ah Joes' wisdom doin its thing👍TFS, GB :)

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Great to know, thx Joe for sharing.

[@joepie221]

You bet

[@tomlutman2041]

After you over torqued the first fitting, did you untorqued it, or simply a torque adjust? Either way, good stuff to be reminded of.

[@EZ_shop]

Great tip Joe. Ciao, Marco.

[@donkintz281]

Nice great tip thanks

[@mqeqeshe1]

To precisely clock something made of steel requires very high precision. Put a tenths indicator on the lathe bed such that it displays carriage movement (z-axis). Snug your carriage lock and use a rubber mallet to coax the carriage along. With this technique you can make extremely fine adjustments.

[@bwyseymail]

Carriage? Why would you not use the compound for such small movements?

[@mqeqeshe1]

@@bwyseymail The compound would work I suppose. You'll have to deal with backlash and you'll lose the zero on your DRO if so equipped. Setting it at an angle would allow for very fine adjustments in the Z direction. As usual there is more than one way to do it. I like using the tenths indicator because its fast, no backlash, and no interpolation required.

[@mog5858]

keep up the good work.

[@derkarhu5079]

Clock? Now I have to watch the video!

[@egx161]

What if in a similar situation it needs a specific torque? More calculating. Thanks

[@Henning_S.]

You can tighten it to that specific torque before measuring the angle.

[@thomassutrina8296]

This is half a solution since the position along the center axis to the center of the part changes. A full solution is the situation where the angle and distance both must be within a narrow limit. That same math can be used to set the angle in the lathe or the position of the tap angle when set against the face.

[@joepie221]

I respectfully disagree. This is a solid and proven solution. Only a CNC lathe or thread milling program adjustment could possible achieve what you suggest. Adjusting the helix position on a manual lathe or with a tap is nearly impossible.

[@allanrichards3752]

You have shown the "Rolls Royce" way of doing this but most people I have seen messing with steam engines use a combination of various thicknesses of copper washers. Also if you freshly anneal copper it will squash up a fair bit too. I've not seen aluminium washers used but they should be fine with steam.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Good One !!

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 thanks

[@johnm840]

Clever, Had no clue how you going to do that. Now folks will think I'm the expert If I give the answer....

[@rkalle66]

Hopefully the thread which is now getting deeper is not interfering inside with moving parts.

[@joepie221]

Certainly a consideration to be aware of.

[@ramonching7772]

Considering there is so much trouble to make it work. It's no wonder all full scale design I have encountered, it will just bolt the flanged pipe to the body.

[@joepie221]

I can see the benefit.

[@MrRctintin]

Thanks, Joe. What would we use for metric threads, when the pitch of the thread is in millimetres?

[@hoppercar]

Do the math the same way

[@russkepler]

It's easier in metric as the pitch is expressed in terms of travel on the thread. If you need to clock a thread back 45 degrees you need a washer with a thickness of 45/360×pitch.

[@MrRctintin]

@@russkepler thanks Russ

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Exactly the knowledge I was looking for. Great tip 👌. Thank you. 👏👏👍😎

[@JasonTHutchinson]

Can't you also remove some of the thread?

[@Gumbatron01]

Not in this case. Because the fitting bottoms out on the gasket surface. That is the surface that controls the clocking angle.

[@JasonTHutchinson]

@@Gumbatron01 Removing part of the thread will change the engagement angle of the part. So by changing the start of the thread, would that not also do the same thing?

[@Gumbatron01]

@@JasonTHutchinson Removing material from the end of the thread on the brass flange will not change where it clocks when tightened. It would only change where it starts engaging. To change where it clocks when tightened, you would need to remove material as Joe did on the shoulder, or by counter-boring the threaded hole by a similar amount (which, in this instance would be more difficult).

[@joepie221]

If the part bottoms out in the hole, removing some thread will work. Otherwise, you have to work with the contact surfaces.

[@JasonTHutchinson]

@@joepie221 That makes sense now, thank you for the explanation.

[@dlstanf2]

A thicker compression washer?

[@rustbeltmachine]

That absolutely could have worked.

[@joepie221]

Or thinner.

[@mattw7949]

How to clock threaded parts... crank them down with a wrench. :D. Just kidding. Great video... just funny when the first one ended up perfect.

[@dennyskerb4992]

👍👍

[@TheRootbeerfreak]

Now you just have to center the crush washers under the fittings! That would bug me :)

[@joepie221]

Not a big deal. They will walk under pressure anyway.

[@jeffmays3608]

I prefer to face .001 or .002, remove part from lathe, see where it clocks and repeat 14 times. Your way not too bad though, hahaha. Just kidding, thanks as always

[@joepie221]

Good one. :)

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Now show us how to clock slot head screws so that they can be aligned alike.

[@marossgnv]

Same concept

[@joepie221]

Adjust the underside of the head, or reduce the overall length if they bottom out.

[@hi1172]

Yay!!! First comment!!! Love your videos

[@joepie221]

Good Morning and Thanks for tuning in. :)

[@danielbuck]

I guess just slathering it up with red loctite, clocking it and waiting for it to dry is a little redneck 😂

[@joepie221]

Whatever works. :)

[@tgfcujhb7583]

Just another way to skin the cat.......👍👍👍

[@joepie221]

Yep.

[@minbannister3625]

Joe sent me.

[@bheckel1]

wintergatan can help with the clocking of the crankshaft for the doorbell. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpOQc5J4nJhkkMk another favorite is kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHLHopSwnt2oiLs I actually like the music in the second one a lot better.

[@bheckel1]

starting to imagine 100,000$ door bell. It hangs nest to the front door. The longest brass tube should be 8' longish bout 2" dia wall thickness I have no idea. one chime for each note in the opening of amazing grace. otherwise pipe organ tubes.....either as repurposed chimes or original air blown. the possibilities are endless. If I make one it will be the 80$ parts version with 140000 hrs into it.

[@ophirb25]

It is mostly laziness in my case, so I resort to a different solution.....🤣🤣🤣