How To Convert Existing Truss Roof Flat Ceiling To Vaulted Ceiling Using Rafters, Post and Beam

www.homebuildin... Click on this link for more information about remodeling, house framing and building repairs. This video will provide you with an example of how you can convert an existing trust roof with a flat ceiling to a cathedral or vaulted ceiling using conventional roof framing rafters, posts and beam. Remember to always check with a structural engineer before making modifications to a building and I would like to also add that the examples used in this video won't work for every building. These illustrations are examples that can be used for education.

[@stevep41]

well done. clear instructions, no fluff, several useful tips that I wish I had known last year before lifting a 1000 lb beam into place!!

[@randyphelps3041]

this was exactly what I was looking for, well explained and sound from the engineering side! Excellent! thanks so much!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad you liked it.

[@charlesmccullough158]

I have a detached garage with unfinished walls and ceiling, that's framed exactly like the model '25 x '30. And this video is what I was looking for, been brainstorming how to raise the ceiling to use the garage as a work shop. Great video!!

[@gregvancom]

I don't know if I have any videos on that, but you can always check out the website. They would probably be in the remodeling section under framing.

[@andrewrossnagel9433]

Dude you knocked this video out of the park, really great job

[@gregvancom]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@oldowl4290]

I remodeled a 100 year old condemned house and we did exactly this because the ridge was severely sagging. There were no trusses however but we cut loose all the original rafters and had attached new 2x6s onto them. We then jacked the new beam up into place literally pushing the original ridge beam out of the top of the roof. We used 12 ton bottle jacks on each end and had tripled the wall studs/posts under the jack points.

[@larryaltman1872]

Stumbled across this quite by accident. I'm not a carpenter or engineer, by trade, but I've wanted to do this in my family room and connected kitchen for some time. Was told by carpenters that it wasn't possible, that the roof would likely collapse. That didn't make sense to me since you would likely start by sistering 2x6s or 8s to the rafter part of the truss. I'm going to share your video with a local engineer and go from there. Loved the video. Thank you for sharing. Larry Altman

[@gregvancom]

Let us know what you come up with for the remodel design.

[@mattsavage]

OMG, you just saved me a ton of headaches, once again!!! I was trying to figure out how to get a ridge beam up over the rafter ties, which are already 10' over the finish floor. man, i came up with some crazy medieval contraptions thatwould've made Davinci proud, but this is just ridiculously easy! Thanks agaiin!!! Love your videos!

[@gregvancom]

You're absolutely welcome and comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated.

[@JWSmythe]

I found this video because I was pondering if it would be possible to convert our ceilings to a vaulted ceiling. I sort of expected it to be undesirable. Your way looks really nice and strong. Now I just have to get the money together to pay someone to do it. :) I'd like to think it's a DIY job, but not without a team of experienced workers to help do it. I know my limits, and this one is going as far as knowing what I want a contractor to do for me.

[@HawkGTboy]

Same. I’m a DIY guy but this is something you pay a professional for. Reminds me of that line from Dirty Harry… “A man has got to know his limitations.”

[@Bryanfuel0]

I’m curious, did you ever go through with this or get quotes?

[@JWSmythe]

@@Bryanfuel0 No, I didn't. It's a lot cheaper to just think about what could be done, rather than having it done. :)

[@codycash9338]

This helped so much. I’ve been trying to engineer some thing in my head and have been getting paralysis from over analysis lol. I’m converting a 70s concession stand up above my race track into my temporary new home and future VRBO and I think this would just be awesome. Everything is tin at the moment And it needs some life to it

[@georgeballow7028]

Have a 36 x 20 attached garage. Great video, but my thoughts are to make that a giant room above. Might be almost as easy to take off the roof, remove the trusses, then frame conventionally. Cleaner approach but wasting the remaining years of the roof. Maybe the roof plywood could be salvaged?

[@PhpGtr]

I found this channel while trying to figure out why every shed replacement I was looking at seemed to have no rafter ties or proper beam support. Drove me nuts. "They're just sheds" I guess they say. Well, if my original shed had been built correctly, I wouldn't be replacing it. 2 weeks later, I am going to build something that should likely support a locomotive on the roof.

[@carmfully]

When your spouse keeps on asking for vaulted ceilings in an old house, you simply play them this clip and also explain that the entire roof deck will need to be redone for your cold climate. Discussion over 😂

[@borkbork3950]

Ahaha that's how I got here 😢

[@HawkGTboy]

It would be easier to sell and buy a new house with the ceiling you want.

[@charles5a]

​@@HawkGTboy No. It's not such a difficult job, but it's a gut job on the inside. The issue is having the idea like he explained in this excellent video. You'd need an engineer to size the glue lam beam. I had this exact situation in my house 25 years ago. It took me 5 years to figure it out 🤦‍♂️. Ended up with what he showed, except we cut a hole in the side table to slide the beam before touching the truss parts

[@t.c.3027]

Vid is very educational & informative for the layman as I am! thanks Greg, keep em coming!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@GarciaJustinBArchPE]

Great talk about the conversion... I might add that the roof needs to be designed as a rigid diaphragm to more efficiently transfer lateral loads to the perimeter walls which will put limits to the length and height of the beam/post design. Also, might add that uplift may govern the design in some cases especially if one end is open, i.e. like a garage or patio

[@gregvancom]

Sounds good to me. You do bring up a good point and that is the fact that there are other things to consider when doing any modifications to an existing structure.

[@yassirc3681]

Exactly what I had in mind. Just needed an expert's explanation. Many thanks! 👍

[@HawkGTboy]

I’d love to do this but it’s not a job that can be done while your family is living in the house! 🤪

[@justinhc123]

Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge. So clear and precise. Such a blessing!

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful!

[@turbojoe9111]

Fantastic Video. Have a client looking for this exact build. Now I can contact the engineers and move forward. Thank you so much!!!

[@gregvancom]

Our pleasure!

[@imabeapirate]

For a 30+ ft span, it was cheaper for me to use 2x6x20 beams sistered at a vaulted angle, rather than move to a center beam by more than half. It gave me the added height, but also makes for an attic space to insulate which has helped keep the shop more bearable.

[@annahopp]

Thanks for confirming that I am not insane. Sounds like an expensive project since I also plan to lower the garage ceiling at the same time.

[@gregvancom]

Glad to help and thanks for the contribution.

[@PlantBuildThrift]

Phenomenal information. Thanks for this.

[@JNedoCT]

Perfectly explained...

[@gregvancom]

Thank you 🙂

[@kentschubert]

Extremely well done. Than you!!

[@JenniferCocker]

Gonna go ahead and cross this off the ol DIY list

[@gregvancom]

Exactly.

[@KevinEsch-p6r]

Very helpful - thanks!

[@souiemotown6220]

Very helpful. Thank you very much.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome!

[@randolphwhitely6552]

Good info! I don’t know what certain terms mean, but I get overall idea…

[@jonq8714]

All this did was confirm that I will NOT be undertaking this project. Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

I hear yeah:)

[@mauriciodomingues5146]

This is super helpful. Thanks for making this video. I wonder how you would go about installing tongue and groove or shiplaps as a finish?

[@wictimovgovonca320]

I was thinking of doing something like this, but I was concerned about aligning all the rafters so that the beam would lift into place but not leave a gap between the rafters and ridge beam. Normally you install the rafters individually to the ridge beam so a tight fit is easier to achieve, but here tolerances matter as you are fitting to many rafters at once.

[@krehbein]

Nice video, but, at 5:58 now that you've cut the center of 2x4s out there's nothing stopping the walls from being pushed out from the weight of the roof. Unless thats a slow process that happens over time, not a couple days?

[@tombrownrigg8794]

Thank you. Great idea

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful!

[@joeytuckey1517]

Awesome explanation. Thank you!

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome!

[@michaelsolano8733]

These are fantastic videos!! Thank you!

[@NoName-ml5yk]

Thank you!

[@chadspinalbosd007]

Awesome i really want to get of my cieling dry wall and build by walls on the way up where the room divides. Build a loft like storage with a ladder in every room with a ladder to climb up. Use foam to insulate and put big sky lights on the roof instead. And rerun the electric, pipes, and a/c vents neatly and make it look industrial

[@llew-AZ]

Make sure you check reactions on the beam ends. You might need to add a larger footing condition @ both ends of the run. Typical footings can only take so much load transfer, based on depth and width.

[@gregvancom]

That's a very good point and even though this covers the framing, you can watch some of our newer videos for more information about footings on remodel projects like this one.

[@llew-AZ]

@@gregvancom worked in truss design for 35 years. It's all the things I go over with individuals excited to cut out their original flat ceilings. It's the small things that will really kill you for cost.

[@MrJohnnynapalm7]

Excellent video explanation. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@gregvancom]

Glad it helped and thanks for watching.

[@wm2427]

Can you do this with only half of the trusses? For example if you wanted to cut out a space for a loft but didn't want to remove them all, just essentially remove 1/4 section.

[@Khalid.Al-Bahi]

Hi Greg. Thanks for the beam raising trick. Very DIY oriented. Bringing the topic of trusses and rafters, could you please explain using plywood gusset instead of metal connectors in trusses. Unfortunately there are no truss factories nor that kind of structural engineers over here. It will help me taking my carpentry skills to the next level. Especially that maximum lumber length here is 12'-10" which limits the run and the pitch when using rafters.

[@gregvancom]

+Khalid Al-Bahi Bummer about the lumber lengths.

[@Khalid.Al-Bahi]

LOL. Tell me about it!! But, isn't engineering all about using what you have to build what you want.

[@gregvancom]

Exactly!

[@jamesholz1151]

Thanks for giving me some idea on what's involved. I'll probably pay someone to do it and stick with drywall and painting!!

[@brentolsen9589]

Wow, very clever (my highest compliment). I need to alter my engineered trusses to add space above a car lift in my 25X40' garage/shop. No one is interested; they tell me I have to replace the existing trusses with new engineered trusses. How do I find an engineer locally to design the alteration with your rafter method?

[@mst5321]

Amazing instructions

[@gregvancom]

Thanks

[@saby8765]

Love it.

[@rockscrambler6700]

Pure Freaking Genius!

[@DinkyDingus]

What would be the process of adding a walkable floor to the upper section? I have a very large attic above my garage that I would love to covert into an actual living space, but it is trussed up. I am looking at doing this exact process but am unsure about how adding a floor to it would work. Thank you

[@larryhooverpedofilekillerc4177]

Thank you for your time in all you do,but I had seen this being your first video I hope to see more have a nice day. Catch you later.

[@crucialmarsupial3413]

your videos re fantastic - thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You're very welcome and thanks for watching!

[@khalkhali1960]

Great work

[@gregvancom]

Thanks

[@bruce-le-smith]

pretty cool, thanks for explaining that! It still boggles my mind that putting a giant heavy beam way up in the air somehow stops a structure from falling down. I know there's math, but it seems counter intuitive. Could you explain the physics/forces of how that beam works?

[@gregvancom]

I'm not a structural engineer, but might be able to provide you with a video that will give you a little more information. I will post a link here when the video is done.

[@bruce-le-smith]

Thanks that would be awesome, and I would never hold you liable for anything, and would obviously seek professional advice in a contextual situation if I was ever planning/executing. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You bet.

[@homrundude]

It’s all about thrust....if you vault and don’t have anything at the top to support the load a horizontal thrust will be applied at the top of the wall and the rafters want to push the walls out. This is the main point of ceiling joist to resist this outward thrust. Couple of problems here is adding a much larger concentrated load at each end of the new ridge beam that the existing footings more than likely cant support. Also by vaulting you can’t brace the gable end wall in the attic so you would have to come up with some special bracing or balloon frame the end wall.

[@holmessph7]

It works because the ridge beam is held in place by columns on both ends that ideally extend down to the foundation. The ceiling center can’t move downward because the beam is held up by said columns. Some people could use rafter ties which have a look some people want as well. The beam isn’t really the glue holding anything up, it’s the columns though in this case

[@dandrechesterfield5411]

Well I guess I won't be doing this

[@Daviidx2]

D'andre Chesterfield 😂😂😂

[@azteca8037]

Why not?

[@Philosophy546]

I came here to see if I could this in my garage. Left with the same thought 😂

[@townsendliving9750]

So in the video you mention if you wanted to move the ridge blocks you'd need to remove the sheathing on the roof and re nail. I'd imagine at some point in depth into a project like this it would be easier and maybe more cost effective and less labor intensive to just strip the roof off and restart. Get pre engineered pre assembled trusses and just build a whole new roof. Am I correct on this thinking?

[@gregvancom]

You bring up a good point and sometimes it will be easier, but it might not always be cheaper. There are a lot of things to take into consideration and doing a project like this and engineering will always be one of them. Heating and air-conditioning, electrical wires, plumbing and anything else that can be in the way, can create problems.

[@townsendliving9750]

I guess that comes down to the value someone puts on thier time.

[@gregvancom]

True, if you're going to do the job yourself, then time might not be an issue, but if you hire someone it might.

[@danielmendoza1774]

It's not as easy as going with prefab or custom trusses. As pointed by the author, one must consider AC unit mounted on roof, HVAC ducts running through attic, electrical attic wiring, and attic plumbing especially these days with PEX water lines. While a remodel is certainly "doable", expect to leave the house vacant 2 to 3 months and spend around $30k to $40k for a vaulted ceiling on an existing gable roof for a 1,400 SQ FT home. EDIT: Keep in mind that the walls will need to be extended to meet with the height of the new vaulted ceiling or you will take the walls down and create an open floor plan.

[@jasond4752]

@@danielmendoza1774 What do you mean when you say the walls will need to be extended? Do you mean you have to make them wider to maintain the original height where the ceiling meets the wall? And how could you take the walls down? I'm not understanding anything you said in the edit portion of your comment.

[@stevesmith730]

Great video, Thanks! Just what I needed...

[@gregvancom]

Glad it helped!

[@keepondoubletruckin8466]

Thank You

[@jasond4752]

I'm curious if steel brackets and flitch plates could serve the same purpose of a ridge beam. Maybe this is nonsense but I thought I'd at least explore the idea. In my case I have no ridge board, my rafters meet face to face. The idea is to make large 1/4" steel brackets with through bolts that bolt to the sides of the rafters where they meet at the top. These brackets would be following the rafter size and angle, basically the shape of a boomerang and around 1 foot long on each leg. Then bolt a flitch plate along the side of each rafter and mechanically tie it into the top brackets. This solution makes sense to me as an alternative because it seems the only problem with removing the rafter ties is the roof is now able to bow and the rafters could spread away from each other from the downward force and in turn push the walls outward. But with a solid mechanical connection at the top and flitched rafters I don't see how any bowing or pushing movement would be possible.

[@chrispalffy3511]

Very helpfull Greg, thankyou.

[@hanhhuynh5243]

Thank you for letting me know Greg.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome.

[@rogerc2364]

Awesome representation

[@gregvancom]

Glad you liked it and thanks for letting us know how much you liked it.

[@JJCGCAZ]

Great video thank you!!👍🏽

[@mcmc7746]

Awesome video. Could I just modify the existing flat ceiling truss to a scissor truss, as opposed to a raising a ridge beam with a true vault and rafters?

[@gregvancom]

I've never seen an existing truss remodeled. However, you can check with a local truss manufacture or structural engineer to see if they have some ideas.

[@tonykovatto4425]

thanks for taking the time to make this video very informative.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@FlyingSolo77]

So at the end you would remove the truss's remaining chord and ceiling joist and also the channel supports for raising the beam. The only thing that would remain from the truss would be the rafter part? Thanks.

[@Crazie0nee]

Is there a video to turn cathedral ceiling into bedroom?

[@dpoarch]

any thoughts on how to get the top rafter strap in across the top? alternatives like some kind of tie through the original ridge blocking?

[@briangilson9704]

I am about to do something similar. The structural engineer advised that we needed to put an entirely new beam basement and new Wally columns. Can you explain why this would impact the basement?

[@gregvancom]

You have to install support posts to transfer new loads to foundation. You might need new footings also.

[@alexcisneros2699]

Thanks so much. DIY op. 👍

[@gregvancom]

No problem 👍

[@charleschi843]

Is the beam necessary? Can't your new rafters just extend all the way up to touch on the crown?

[@c1985paul]

"that's up to the engineer" I'm watching your video because it's my house getting remodeled and I am essentially the engineer. Very helpful video though.

[@gregvancom]

So are you removing the roof framing? I would love to see some pictures of your project if you don't mind emailing them to me, but I understand if you don't.

[@edwardsilva5456]

I HOPE YOURE RIGHT...... BECAUSE I HAVE TRUSS ISSUES:0/

[@gregvancom]

It sounds like you should contact a structural engineer. This video is only meant to provide ideas for builders and in no way will suggested video remodeling or repair methods work on every project.

[@edwardsilva5456]

@@gregvancom ITS A JOKE..... "TRUSS" ISSUES.

[@geraldwinston1242]

@@edwardsilva5456 😄 😁

[@kokiter2674]

Seems like this changes the lateral force along the outside walls after removing the bottom chord of the truss. Have you ever seen issues with the outside walls bowing or failing?

[@gregvancom]

We have other videos on house framing you should watch. It's difficult to answer your question because I've never visited a project like this one or more decades after it was remodeled.

[@ryan-pt2nf]

This worked great for us, thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@chosen122]

Hey sir I have a question, would a beam in the middle of the roof be needed if only one room of the building is vaulted ceiling and everything else is flat ceiling? Every room will have ceiling joists and only one room will be vaulted.

[@tonyfoxxbuilds1920]

How would you break down the cost of a project like this? Great video! I may be working on a brick house raising the ceiling. Havent seen the house yet.

[@gregvancom]

I would contact a contractor in your area if you're looking for building estimates. If you need more information about raising the ceiling, then email me some pictures and I'll see what I can do.

[@JeffArndt-s8f]

Greg. Would you be willing to consult remotely on a project where we have a similar request? I can send you video, photos and detail regarding the renovation.

[@triaxe-mmb]

If you need to take the roofing and sheathing off, would it be more efficient and faster to redo the framing with the ridge beam and rafters, or is this the most efficient way to deal with this kind of modification? Does the situation/response change if I am also extending the roofline out?

[@gregvancom]

To verify whether or not the project could be done more efficiently or faster, would depend upon the project. It will be up to you and your engineer to figure out what will actually provide the best results or save you the most money.

[@bryantward]

This was a great video. Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@caseystockbridge]

Great video. Thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching. Definitely one of my better videos.

[@reddash9454]

This looks like my present situation and I actually have the central walls… do i still need a ridge replacement?

[@gregvancom]

You will if you currently have rafter ties.

[@rb3207]

Hi Greg, for the ridge beam conversion....structurally speaking....would you ever just use the the existing 2x4s from the trusses instead of adding rafters connected to them?

[@gregvancom]

If you're talking about redesigning the truss and modifying it into a shape that would be used as an alternative to installing a ridge beam, then you would need some type of an approved design.

[@thrasherd84]

How common is this type of conversion? Having trouble finding a contractor that even thinks this is possible. Thank You.

[@gregvancom]

That's a difficult question to answer. I only did this once and only had one customer ever ask to have it done. If you've already had a couple contractors and they have provided you with realistic and rational reasons why it can't be done on your particular project, then it might not be able to be done. You can always contact a structural engineer for more information.

[@chrispequot8884]

What if your only replacing a section in the center with conventional framing, is there a way to support the ends without a post?

[@GameboyZoneRocks]

Very curious on this question too, but i doing think there’s a solution

[@gonzalom2629]

Hello can you tell me how make fit a rafter /2/ 2x12 when the house it’s finished and frame and it’s and my way walls.

[@jonathanmcadams-nx5zp]

I could do it in a matter of weeks by myself and I am kicking myself in the but that I didn't do it when I had the funds and the time before my dad died and I was watching over him full time from home and could have done it then. I am in a 3,200 square foot home on the beach on Tybee Island, Ga. The difference for me to vault the living room and kitchen ceiling just partially would be under $4000 by myself because I have done it three times now in other homes and one time in my own at this point and did my parents bathroom which I put a skylight in and did their master bedroom with a custom beam up top of both bedroom and restroom. I have 2x4 joists and rafters which sucks and on such a large and sprawling home it really is limits the things I can do to the home. It prevented a rooftop deck and prevented me from the kitchen ceiling being vaulted and the living room because I was just going to do the middle of the 30 foot x 30 foot living room which is smack in the center of the row of trusses that span the length of the room and the master that is on the same pitch and same side of the house is right behind thar room and is already vaulted. I was just going to do the middle of the 30x30 family room and maybe just 17x17 of the very center of that room and just extend the electrical and tie into it for lighting and extend the cieling fan and install a new fan and then some switches for the new lighting on the wall in an easy spot but inevitably put some remote controls on the wall too for the fan and lighting. I only opted out at the very last moment because my father passed away two years ago next month and I went a bit insane drinking and drugging myself into an oblivion. I may still do it. Without the sky is lights and the proper beam I would use, I could do the job myself for under $600 I kid you not. That includes 24 2x4x12s, 8 pieces of 4x8 foot drywall at 1/2 inch thickness, 2 5 gallon buckets of lightweight joint compound, a 100 foot reel of 12/2 copper wire, a tasteful miniature ceiling fan, some nice LED lighting both for the vaulted section up top and on the bottom to where the 8 foot ceiling still is, 2 dimmer switches, 2 regular switches, 4 gang box, 2 gang box, 2 sky lights and a roll of flashing and tar and nails and some paper, 1 beam I build from scratch with 2x6x16s and putting 3 together and wrapping them in pine and filling and staining them along with rustic looking metal straps and hand forged hardware for them for looks but would attach with some custom stuff I make from Metal 1/3 inch thick and 2 inches wide, and then a case of spray foam insulation or 2 bats if of it, and the drywall tape and screws and framing screws I would use and the air conditioning ductwork I would have to extend so I need 20 feet of 8 inch and the insulation wrap to wrap it but I have plenty of metal tape for that and mastic and y Some mesh tape too. I would also need 2 gallons of primer and 2 gallons of ceiling white Behr premium semi gloss bright white. And then the rest of it I have like wire nuts and the drywall nails and screws and the tools of course. I think with the skylights and the beam and the fixtures (fan and lighting) I would be at around $1500 but only because the skylights are $280 each and the ceiling fan is $200 and the lighting and wire is another $250. So the lumber is under $300 and that include the custom beam I would/will make. Without skylights and with reusing the fan I have and going inexpensive as possible on everything I could vault the curling for under $600 easily. Probably more like $350. . That is just 6 sheets of drywall and 20 2x4x12s and two tubs of mud and joint tape and a roll of wire and four led flush mount lights and a few dimmer switches and boxes and two gallons of bright white cieling paint and primer in one and finally I just use a faux beam I diy for under $35 made of Portland cement and dawn soap and epoxy resin I have left over and make some straps from some scrap metal bands I have laying around and paint them black and make them look rustic and use bolts to tie in the look. Yeah. Hahhahaa

[@miacondo]

Great video. How much do you think a project like this would cost today ? I know varies by region and such . I’m in Florida. Just looking for a general / reasonable idea of potential cost.

[@gregvancom]

You would need to contact a contractor in your area for an estimate.

[@stephenhudson5253]

Once you have the beam installed we can remove the rest of the trusses?

[@gregvancom]

I wouldn't remove the sections of the trusses that are attached to the roof sheathing.

[@dirtysanchez8431]

Thanks Greg. What is the best way to get the rafters in to my attic? I've removed the gypsum and insulation from my ceiling, I thought I could just slide them up but the middle wall is too high. Do you think I might be able to cut a small hole in the roof and get them in that way?

[@gregvancom]

I don't have a method that would work on every project, but it sounds like you have a few obstacles in the way that might either need to be removed or like you said, a small home might need to be cut in the roofing and sheathing. Feel free to email me some pictures if you haven't figured it out already and I'll be glad to take a look at it.

[@chinocool7481]

What if there is no existing beam (2x4 beam) In the center of the roof ? Could i cut the very center after done with the support? To put the beam in..?

[@AmyHeist]

Hello, I am not a builder or contractor, nor do I know all of the technical terms (wish your video had labels for the structural parts so I can learn) however I have a few questions: I have an existing attached 24 x 24 ft garage (8' ceilings) with trusses similar to the ones in your video. We'd like to convert the garage into a great room with vaulted ceilings. I have been told that we will have to raise the roof. Question: would we be able to suggest this process (in the video) so we do not have to raise the roof? There is no mechanical or plumbing (only minor electric and insulation) in the attic. Would this process you show in your video remedy the need to raise the existing roof? I have done a little research and have found that raising a roof for a 24x24 garage can start at $23k and go upwards of $50K...If there is a way to get the same look (vaulted ceiling) without compromising the integrity of the building, but also saving money, I'd like to know if this is feasible in my situation? If you have an email I can certainly send some pics for you to look at and of course, I would have an engineer give the final okay...I'm just wondering if I do NOT have to raise the roof?

[@AmericaChat]

I love the TRUTH 4 walls and a roof

[@gregvancom]

Definitely

[@wolfe2118]

This is a fantastic video! I'm working on a 30' wide pole building with trusses 48"OC where the previous occupant cut out 4 trusses and "re-engineered" them to allow for motor-home clearance. I like the extra clearance so I have been considering engineered I joist until I came across this. Would it be better to use the I joists 48" OC the rafters 24"OC? Do you have a better suggestion where I can retain the ceiling space in this 16' area of the building?

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link to our website for garage remodeling. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html if you can't find what you're looking for then email me some pictures of your problem, but keep in mind that I cannot provide you with structural engineering information.

[@cheese99999]

What does a job like this cost to do in 2 car garage?

[@vinylcabasse]

how much does this sort of thing cost? weighing the pros and cons of doing this versus just exposing the rafters, maybe painting or staining them

[@gregvancom]

Check with local contractors for estimates.

[@jimmccullagh3255]

Greg, Like Ramona I am looking for the follow up video to see how you finished the framing. thanks

[@JohnSmith-gu3ub]

My house didn't have the middle support peice. The engineer said we can put the ridge beam below the existing ridge beam structure so the rafters will not be attached to the new ridge beam like this. I don't really understand what the new beam will be connected to. The beam will be supported by posts at the ends and one in the middle that goes to the basement.

[@gregvancom]

The beam can go under the rafters, but should hold them up with either having them sit on top of the beam or some type of wall or bracing holding roof up. Ask the engineer to provide you with more information.

[@Jookyforever]

The temporary wall layout would not work unless those studs are sheathed or braced by something in their weak axis as they will buckle. You can get creative with various angled braces, but sticking osb on them without too much nailing part of the way up may be the easiest way.

[@gregvancom]

It might not work in every situation, but it worked for me in every situation I ran into. I don't see a need to use structural panel sheathing, but it's always going to be better to make your temporary supporting wall stronger, especially if you don't understand much about house framing and engineering.

[@gregvancom]

I wasn't trying to be mean and there are plenty of other ways to build a variety of different things. Anyway, what's up with boob a cocka.

[@sanjayarya233]

Hi Greg...good evening...excellent video. Where are u located...I really want to convert the general truss I have in the attic to Attic truss to get cathedral ceiling and transform Attic to living space. I am in South East Michigan.

[@gregvancom]

Sounds like we are on opposite sides of the U.S.

[@sanjayarya233]

@gregvancom Can u still help me located a builder who understands what you showed....when I talk to any general contractor they seems to think its not possible 🤔...Please work with me on my attic project

[@LightGesture]

How would you do an over hang on the ridge side? Make a longer beam, but what about the roof rafter,? Do you nail a 2by on the ends of the rafter tails and run it long?

[@gregvancom]

If you have a supporting wall under the ridge or beam, then you can build the vaulted ceiling on one side. If this didn't answer your question, then provide more details.

[@johnjones7400]

What's going to keep the side walls from being pushed out? Especially in the middle where they are far from the end walls. The bottom of the trusses could have helped do that, but once they're removed, it seems there's only the stiffness of the walls.

[@gregvancom]

That's a good question. The beam at the top that's used to support the ridge will prevent the walls from spreading. It can actually be one of the reasons why a larger beam might be required.

[@johnjones7400]

Ok, I think I get it. The beam carries the weight to its ends, rather than distributing it down the rafters to the side walls like conventional trusses. I definitely see the value in having a structural engineer, but I still like to understand how things work myself. Thanks for the reply!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@ztylerr]

Looking for a video on how to do slopes ceilings

[@benshimeda9018]

A lot of work and materials to put in a ridge beam that serves no purpose. Cut the rafters at the beginning so they meet in the middle. Leave the blocking between rafters of the original trusses. Add collar ties to a portion of the new, larger rafters to prevent rafter spreading. Boom. Done.

[@gregvancom]

I don't know about that?

[@fredandrieni770]

If I was placing the 2nd story on a 5/12 truss roof could I use open web floor trusses expanding the full width of structure (since the load factor with the current roof trusses is the outside walls of the structure) and install the floor trusses (32' long x 24" thick) from one side of the structure to the other side of the structure (outside walls) and then screw and glue every roof truss to the floor truss where they touch (every 18") and then remove the part of the roof truss that extends above the floor truss so that a standard framed room could be built on the floor joist trusses?

[@fredandrieni770]

Also, the reason for the above keeping of the roof trusses and aligning the floor trusses next to them is so the ceiling will no fall down and because the coffered ceiling below them is attached to the bottom of the roof trusses.

[@gregvancom]

You would need to check with a structural engineer for more information, but I have seen floor trusses span long distances like you're talking about.

[@gregvancom]

I don't understand your question completely, but if you're suggesting that the roof trusses need to be vertically aligned with the roof trusses, then this would also need to be answered by an engineer. Feel free to rephrase your question if I didn't answer it.

[@ILoveAmerica2424]

Help us out with how we should insulate this type of ceiling and how can we create spacing for condensation and drywall. Exc.

[@gregvancom]

I will put it on my list, but currently am about three months behind. I will place a link here when the video is completed.