How to create a jumper wire and bypass a safety switch in your Pellet Stove

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hi Thanks for the links. I have never noticed any kind of gasket, but I will check it out. I will also do the dollar bill test. When the stove is on, the flame is very crispy/torchy as you mentioned. It does not seem to be a weak flame at all.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, great to hear. If the fire looks real nice like that I highly doubt you have a gasket leak or air blockage in the stove. Keep us posted once you replace the vacuum hose. Thanks,

[@progrocker3]

You’re videos helped me change out my two motors today on Christmas. I watched the one about making a jumper to test the motors and switches. You really break it down and it was super easy just as you described. Thanks you! I also ordered the two motors and bearings and gaskets from your company about a week ago. Only complaint was with FedEx on their “2 day” shipping but it was just before Christmas.

[@EarthSense]

So glad to hear the videos were helpful and we greatly appreciate your business! Thank you so much and we hope you had a very warm and Merry Christmas!

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hi. Thanks for getting back to me. My stove does not have the sensor that is in the hopper. It must’ve been BIll before that. The wires coming out of the auger motor are connected in a white flat piece of rectangular plastic. I do not believe I can make a direct feed to the mower like you do in the video. Is the high low sensor one of the snap discs? Thank you.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the information. Ok, you have an auger motor with the rectangular connector. Yes, you would need to go to an electrical hardware place to create an adpater for that to direct test it. When you turn the stove on does it seem like the auger motor is trying to feed at all or does it seem like no power is coming to it? Yes, the high limit switch will be one of the snap discs. On your model it should be up by the auger chute covering or back wall area. Here is what it looks like for reference - pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-high-limit-switch-snap-disc-3-manual-reset-oem/

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

The stove that I have is a Quadra fire Castile. It is an older model. It does not have a sensor on the pellet door. I will check the hose again. Do you normally send a replacement hose when a vacuum pump is purchased? I cannot test my auger motor because it has a big wide plastic clip for a connector. The exhaust fan seems to be spinning at an optimal speed. I might just need to call in somebody to take a look at it. Thanks for your help.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message and reminding me of the model you have; it's coming back to me now from our previous communications. The majority of vacuum switch replacements do not come with the hose/tube, however some do - just depends on the SKU. Definitely double check your Amazon order details on that - If something is wrong, our team will make it right. Yeah, check the items I indicated in the last message - I know it's difficult to direct test the auger motor in the Quadrafire due to the connector. I just have a feeling something else is causing that vacuum switch to trip/stay open which is not allowing the auger motor to run. Does your door and ash door gasket appear to be sealing tightly? When is the last time those gaskets were replaced? How about ash build-up? How many bags of pellets have you burned since you last thoroughly cleaned the vent pipe, stove firebox, and ash cleanouts? Happy to help save you the cost of a service call if we can. Thanks.

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hello. I have a Quadra fire pellet stove from around 2003. I major jumper cable, and bypassed the vacuum pump. Pellets still do not flow into the stove from the auger. Does this mean that my vacuum pump is defective? Thanks

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. There are several components in the stove that can prevent the auger from turning and feeding pellets. What Quadra-Fire model do you have? Is it running on a Thermostat? Does any fuel feed when you first turn it on? Does the combustion blower/exhaust fan come on when you first turn the stove on? Please provide as many details as you can - happy to assist. Thanks!

[@mikeforney2971]

hello, should i try this to see if this is why the glass gets dirty fast on a harman advance? Tryed everything thought it could be the exhaust motor

[@EarthSense]

Hey Mike, No, your safety switches will have nothing to do with the cleanliness of your glass in the Advance. Most important is to have the stove and venting clean. We want to see a nice crisp torchy fire during operation. If our fire is lazy or sooty in anyway we have an issue that needs to be addressed - Typically can be resolved with thorough cleaning and checking the gasket seals. What does your fire look like in operation? The type of pellet fuel you use will play a big factor in the cleanliness of the glass. Heat settings will also play a big factor (Glass will always get dirtier when running at low heat settings). If running on low for extended periods, crank the unit on high for 15 minutes and that will help clear off the glass. If you are using a chemical glass cleaner, wipe back over the glass with water when cleaned. Residue from a chemical cleaner will cause it to get dirtier quicker. When you open the front door on your Advance you will see a gap on the bottom metal lip where the 'Air-Wash' is coming up to keep the glass clean. Make sure this gap looks uniform and use a can of compressed air to clean out any ash or debris stuck in the Air-Wash gap. Let's start there, happy to help.

[@ctlupfer]

Hi, and thanks so much for the helpful info. I have an England Stove Works 25-PDVC pellet stove, and noticed the top auger wasn't moving (bottom moves just fine). I used your vacuum switch bypass method, and everything worked smoothly. I've since replaced the vacuum switch, and wired everything back the way it should be, but the top auger still won't move. Any thoughts/recommendations? Thanks in advance!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. There must be something causing the vacuum switch to stay open and not close properly. Generally this will be either an air loss or air blockage issue. Let's check the following 1. Stove Thoroughly Cleaned 2. Exhaust Venting Thoroughly Cleaned 3. Front Door Gasket - Ensure it is sealing tightly all the way around. Same if you have an ash pan door gasket on your model. 4. Check the glass gasket to ensure proper seal all the way around. 5. Make sure the vacuum switch tube/hose is connected well and doesn't have any cracks. 6. Let's check the voltage on the combustion blower. Should be near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch. Here is a video specific to the vacuum switch that may provide additional help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnnIgq2Loriff6c Keep us posted, happy to assist. Thanks,

[@ctlupfer]

@@EarthSense Thanks so much for the quick response! I'll give your check list a try and let you know how it goes. Appreciate it!

[@EarthSense]

@@ctlupfer Sounds good! Keep us posted!

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hello. I purchased through Amazon a New vacuum pump from you. When I put that on, it did not do anything. The connectors seem to be loose on them when I attached them. Also, it has been several weeks since I have worked on the stove. When I plug it in now, the fan for the exhaust is very squeaky. Is there a way to lubricate that? I attached the jumper wire again, and the auger is working, but it is louder than it was previously. Thanks for any help you can provide. Appreciate it.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. It is possible the new vacuum switch is bad, however it would be very rare. Before we determine the switch is bad and send it back for replacement, it's important you check the following things. Each of the items below will not allow the vacuum switch to close the circuit if it detects air loss or air blockage. 1. Vacuum switch hose. No cracks in the hose. Secured tightly on both ends. 2. Ash build-up in the stove or venting. Any ash blockage will keep the vacuum switch tripped. 3. Door, Glass, Ash Pan gaskets sealing tight. Any gasket area that is not sealing tight will keep the vacuum switch tripped. 4. Exhaust fan not running at correct RPM - will keep the vacuum switch tripped. With you saying the exhaust fan is squeaking, take a closer look at that. If you have a basic multi-meter, check the voltage on start-up. It needs to be running near line voltage to lock in the vacuum switch. The harman exhaust fan is sealed bearing so there is no way to lubricate that motor. You can always run the auger motor to direct power to check for performance and noise. The auger motor is sealed too. If gears are grinding or squealing and it's making noise, it's generally a sign that it is on it's last leg. Remind us again what Harman model you have and how old the unit is. Happy to send further reference links. Hope that information helps. Thanks.

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hi. So I let the stove run, and the noise from the auger, and the fan blower noise have gone away. They both sound like they used to. I currently have the machine running with pellets to see how it’s working. Everything seems fine. The issue that I still need to address is that I am bypassing the vacuum switch. I will be ordering a new vacuum hose, and A new gasket for the stove door. The door to the ash bin does not have any kind of gasket. I am guessing because it is an older model. I will let you know how I make out once a replace the gasket, and toes. Thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@yesrealtygroup1989 Thanks for the message. Yes, it will be important to have the vacuum switch working properly again; we only want to bypass for troubleshooting purposes. The Castile Freestanding model will have a gasket on the ash door. Depending on the age, some used a rope gasket and others uses a cut-out sheet style gasket. I'll put reference links below - it will be good to check that gasket as well. You can do a dollar bill test around the door gasket. With the stove off, stick a dollar bill half in and half out of the door. Close the door and see how much resistance there is. Check in multiple areas - should be heavy resistance all the way around. Would you say the fire is nice and crisp/torchy while burning? pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-castile-freestanding-ash-tray-door-gasket-new-style-oem/ pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heat-n-glo-rope-gasket-kit-1-4-x-10-aftermarket/

[@algatti9096]

Great tips for troubleshooting pellet stoves. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Still working to diagnosing the issues.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, glad the videos have been helpful. Happy to help with diagnosing efforts. What stove make and model do you have and what is the issue you're experiencing?

[@algatti9096]

@@EarthSense We have a Caddy Alterna Pellet Furnace - an earlier model, manufactured in 2008. We bought it new from a dealer about 3 years ago and recently got it wired up. It appears the ignitor is not coming on; so, I am in the process of working through that issue. Watching your videos gives me a good understanding of how the unit works.

[@EarthSense]

@@algatti9096 Thanks for the message. We don't have a ton of experience with the PSG Caddy Alterna Furnace; it appears it uses a 300 watt igniter, part 44132. I'm not sure what the ohm range should be on this igniter, may have to contact the manufacturer to find out. Most of the 300 watt igniter elements we carry range from 30-52 ohms for optimal range - I would think your PSG igniter should be similar. Here is an igniter troubleshooting and OHM test video which you may find helpful. Thanks! kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs

[@algatti9096]

@@EarthSense As a next step, I applied 120V (from an external source) to the ignitor and the ignitor got warm. Then I tested the leads to the ignitor and am not receiving any voltage. Is there a switch that could be tripped that would prevent the ignitor from receiving 120 V? Any other thoughts to continue diagnosing and resolving the issue is much appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

@@algatti9096 Thanks for the message Al. If you are running your igniter to direct 120V power, the element should become literally cherry red hot within a few minutes time. If it's only getting warm, that is a sure fire sign the igniter is bad. I'm not aware of any safety switch in-line with the igniter element. I would suggest tracing those igniter lead wires back to the junction box or control board and see if you are getting any voltage reading at the source. Check the wires, make sure there are no cracks or breaks. Look for any charred or burn spot where the igniter lead wires connect on the board. In some models there will be an igniter fuse either in-line or in the control board. You can check to see if your Caddy has that as well. Keep us posted.

[@skokes2010]

Nice and informative videos. I recently acquired a Quadra-Fire Contour for use in a pole building. The unit worked, but the previous owner had jumpered out some of the safety features so I have replaced all of the snap-discs, vacuum switch and tubing, added a new thermostat and thoroughly cleaned out the stove. When I attempt to fire it up now, the exhaust blower starts and runs, the demand light comes on and the ignitor comes on. However, now the feed motor/auger does not start. I haven't been able to figure it out - suggestions??

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. We can run the auger motor to direct power to ensure the motor is operating correctly. Video on creating a test cord below. If the motor is running correctly, Let's make sure the door seal gasket is sealing tightly and if you have a multi-meter let's make sure the exhaust blower is running near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Let us know what you find, we'll get you back to 100% with the Contour. Thanks!

[@skokes2010]

@@EarthSense finally able to get back to this. Verified the auger motor works and the door gasket is ok. So I went back to the beginning and jumpered the snapdiscs and vacuum switch. Going through the starting sequence: Thermostat works, receive the demand light, exhaust blower starts, and the feed auger runs for 60 seconds and then stops. The ignitor works (orange/red hot) and the fuel pot heats up. If I hit the rest button, the fuel motor will restart and runs for another 60 seconds. I'm stumped lol. Any further thoughts or do I need to schedule you guys for a visit?

[@EarthSense]

@@skokes2010 Thanks for the message. It sounds like the unit is going through start-up sequence. Call light comes on, Exhaust blower starts up, unit will feed for 60 seconds, igniter comes on and the initial fire is lit. From here what takes the unit from start-up into normal operation mode is the Thermocouple. The thermocouple is placed over the firepot and will detect the heat from the fire in start-up giving signal back to the control box. There should be a ceramic cover on the end of the thermocouple. Let's start by inspecting the thermocouple and the wire connections. Here is a video on the thermocouple for further reference. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJmwhat3r7ZsoZY Keep us posted!

[@gregnewman4346]

Thanks , was able to identify my issue quickly. Part on order. Warm in no time.

[@EarthSense]

Great to hear Greg, glad this video was helpful in identifying the issue. Any questions as you go along please let us know, happy to assist. Thanks!

[@lampropoulospanos1]

hi there Thank you for your lights !!! but I need help I get the Dip sic fail alarm after 10 minutes of working I changed the pressure switch with a new one and I get the same message ,,, after I bypassed the pressure switch and all works fine any help please ?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. I'm unsure of what the dip sic fail alarm is.. What stove make and model do you have? If you are bypassing your pressure switch and the stove works fine, there is something in the stove that is tripping the vacuum switch. Check the following: 1. Vacuum Switch Hose 2. Door Gasket and Ash Door Gasket Seals 3. Ash build-up in the stove and flue vent pipe 4. Combustion blower running at proper voltage - should be near line voltage on start-up. Hope that is helpful, keep us posted. Thanks!

[@Highnz57]

Thanks for this. 👍 👍 I have an hp22 pellet stove. There's a switch that shuts the stove off when opening the hopper lid. It broke a few years ago and doesn't operate properly. I have it bandaged up with tape. I'd rather remove it and bypass the switch entirely. (I live in the mountains. Getting parts shipped out is a big hassle and pretty expensive)

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. We do highly recommend that all safety switches in the stove are hooked up and operating properly including the hopper switch. In the event the hopper lid was left open, the fire will be affected and you could have a burn back into that fuel hopper. Again, we strongly suggest bypassing only for troubleshooting and making sure all safety switches are in place and working correctly. If you change your mind, here is the hopper switch for your stove direct from Comforbilt. comfortbilt.net/products/hopper-switch Thanks,

[@estebanayala7575]

hey hope you are doing well , your videos are great .. can you please help[ out wit this .. i just bought a house that uses pallet stove to heat the house but it was not working the auger was not turning after buying a new motor and cleaning it the stove finally started working ....... after 40 minutes been on the stove power shut off and i turn it back on by pushing the buttom and after 40 minutes it happen again and ones again i turn it on and again after 40 minutes the power shut off ... what can be the cause of this ? please i need your help ..have blessed day

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Let us know what stove make and model you have; that will be helpful as we troubleshoot what may be taking place. Also let us know how your fire looks when it is burning in that 40 minute window - crisp and torchy or somewhat lazy and sooty. Also, does your room air blower come on during this 40 minute window?

[@estebanayala7575]

@@EarthSense thank you for responding i really appreciate your time.......i have a Withfield wp2 the fire looks torchy and the air blower is on

[@EarthSense]

@@estebanayala7575 It's our pleasure, always happy to assist. Sounds good, Advantage Series Whitfield WP2. Good stoves. Glad the fire looks good, tells us we are getting proper fuel to air and gaskets are good. Glad the blower is coming on properly. It's interesting that it happens at 40 minutes each time. Generally if we have a shutdown after the stove has been running for that length of time it would be one of the snap switches breaking connection. Either getting weak and failing or something causing it to trip. On your WP2 you will have a Low Limit Proof of Fire switch, High Limit Switch and Vacuum switch. You can independently bypass these with the jumper wire FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed. Suggest doing one at a time starting with the Proof of Fire Switch and closely monitoring the stove. Keep us posted with what you find.

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hello, So I did 2 things. I bypassed the vacuum pump and the auger started to rotate. I had also unscrewed the auger, and I pulled a small rectangle of paper towel out. I have no idea how that got in there. I cleaned out the auger, and I screwed it back in. When it did start up with the bypass, it seemed to be very noisy, nothing like it was before. So I am guessing at the minimum, I need a new vacuum pump. The one on the unit is a silver rectangular box. Thanks

[@EarthSense]

Regarding the noise when the auger motor turns - it could be the gears in the motor or it could be the auger shaft inside the housing. See if you can pinpoint where the noise is originating from. Thanks.

[@scottbentley2825]

Do u know how to bypass the cycling system to use an external thermostat so the furnace don't run 24/7?

[@EarthSense]

What stove make and model do you have? Happy to assist.

[@RichardWark]

I love your videos. I currently have an Harman Accentra-2 that is not working. In the test mode the fans work but the gear motor does not and I get 5 flashes from the status light, so I tested the ignition and it was in range. Also, the gear motor is not working. So, I watched the videos and tested the gear motor and it was working. I then watched the low pressure test by jumping the feeds and blowing in the tube to clean it out. Now the gear motor and auger are working but the ignition is getting warm but not firing up the pellets, could that be because the low pressure module is bad and it should work with the new part? Thanks in advance for any assistance

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Richard, glad to hear our videos have been helpful! For the igniter, it's all about the velocity of air that is running past it during the start-up cycle. This air becomes super-heated creating ignition to the pellet fuel. Glad you checked the igniter ohms to confirm it is in range. From here I think we look at any air losses or blockages as either will have an impact on ignition as well as the vacuum switch locking in and working properly. Let's check the basics: 1. Door gasket sealing tight all the way around 2. Burnpot holes open, igniter area cleared out of any fines or ash accumulation. 3. Air intake channel in the igniter area is free and clear without obstruction. (If you are not currently drawing fresh air for intake there will be a flapper door on your intake tube. Make sure the flapper is not sticking.) 4. Overall cleaning and maintenance of the stove and vent pipe - removing any heavy ash accumulation 5. Inspecting the combustion/exhaust blower. This blower should be running near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch and to provide enough air velocity for proper ignition. You can use a basic multi-meter to see what voltage it is operating at during start-up. If you need any further help or insight just let us know, we'll make sure you get back to 100%. Appreciated,

[@RichardWark]

@@EarthSense Thank you for our quick response. It was very helpful. The combustion/exhaust blower is not working. I already did items 1-4 and went to Inspecting the combustion/exhaust blower and saw that it was not working at all. I will look into replacing this on your videos and see if it is worth it. Thanks again for your assistance

[@EarthSense]

@@RichardWark Hey Richard, very glad to hear you found the issue. Here is a video on changing out the combustion blower on the Accentra FS. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKGUlZ-PfrmWptk Here is the combustion blower both OEM and Aftermarket for you to review and compare. pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-ecochoice-combustion-blower-exhaust-draft-fan-motor-oem/ Any other questions please let us know. Appreciated!

[@steveross6816]

When you have a pressure switch with both a negative and a positive port your support that you're not using left open or is it plugged

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Steve. The pressure switch port/nozzle not being used is simply left open as is. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@ronicahesbon8523]

Thank you f o r your videos, do you have one for troulble shooting the fan , that keeps going on and off on and off ?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Ronica! What stove make and model do you have? Are you referring to the convection/distribution blower? (Room Air Fan) Happy to help!

[@jenniferwalsh4725]

Fantastic video thank you sooooooo much, this will work for our Quadra-Fire 1200 exhaust blower motor.👍

[@EarthSense]

@@jenniferwalsh4725 Thanks Jennifer! Feel free to message us with any questions you may have. Appreciated.

[@knoxtrail5412]

Excellent video. I have a Winslow ps40 it seems to be taking my convection blower which works fine almost 20 minutes to engage I put a probe in between the snap switch and the housing it's not engaging till at least 160° sometimes 165. I see on the back of the yellow and white sticker it looks like it should engage at 140° also I had noticed where this mounts to the bracket that holds it to the combustion vent housing that it looks like someone had bent the housing so that the bottom of the switch actually touches the metal that doesn't look correct it looks like it should be 1/8 of an inch off of there with an air gap in between the housing and the snap switch is this correct or should it be touching the metal again the bracket looks like someone bent it in any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Yes it sounds like your low limit switch for the blower is not locking in/closing at the proper temperature. It should be locking in at 140. Look at the mount of the switch, and if you see any corrosion or wear on the bottom of the switch, sometimes taking triple 0 steel wool to clean that back to shiny metal can make a big difference. If you end up needing a replacement, link is below. pellethead.com/product/lennox-iron-strike-winslow-bella-gas-stove-low-limit-blower-snap-switch-oem/ Now the switch you are mentioning in the combustion blower housing will be a ceramic Proof of Fire Switch (P.O.F.) This switch will trigger/lock-in the fuel feed after start-up and will shut down the blower once the stove is cool. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-lennox-iron-strike-proof-of-fire-ceramic-low-limit-snap-switch/ I do believe the blower low limit switch sits in a bracket like you mentioned and there is a small gap if my memory serves me correctly. I would suggest you try to bend that bracket back strait best you can and re-mount. Keep us posted, happy to help. Thanks!

[@knoxtrail5412]

Thanks for the info yeah I cleaned it up but it's still not coming on till like 165 I did bend the bracket back and ordered a new switch from you. The ceramic one is new I got that from you guys also I always clean it like once a month or so.

[@EarthSense]

@@knoxtrail5412 Sure thing. Yeah should be coming on before that temp, keep us posted how the replacement works for you. Thanks again for reaching out.

[@knoxtrail5412]

I will do that when I get the new Switch. upon reading an old thread from like 2017 someone was having sort of the same problem one of the responses was saying that the switch should be making contact with the metal he had asked if switch and distorted or had any kind of deterioration or build up so I guess the question is should the combustion low level switch that's mounted to the heat exchange above convection fan should that switch be touching that metal? I definitely could see that if there was a gap between the switch and the metal it could easily change the temperature by 10 to 15 degrees by not touching the metal which would cause that to raise 160-165° before the temperature in between closed it up

[@knoxtrail5412]

Update. Upon inspection I noticed that the high level switch which has a reset button was in the same type of mounting bracket as the low level combustion switch. the high level switch was actually touching the metal. The low level for whatever reasons somehow must have been bent out by the previous owner and was not touching the metal. I carefully bent it back in so that the low level switch would come in contact with the metal. Upon starting the stove it did not take 25 to 30 minutes for the blower motor to engage nor reach the temperature of 165°. It engaged in about 13 minutes at about 125°.

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

Hello. It is a Quadra fire Castile stove. Runs off of a thermostat. When I plug it in, the blower fan comes on. No pellets drop. The auger does not have anything blocking it.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the information. Few Basic things to check - 1. Let's make sure there is at least 15 lbs of pellets in the hopper and the hopper lid is closed. (I'm not sure if your model was before or after they had the hopper switch installed on the Castile. Reference: pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-ecochoice-magnetic-fuel-hopper-lid-switch/) 2. Let's test the auger motor to direct power to see if the motor is good or bad. This video will show you the basics of making a test cord -kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0si=aTeEyaBXJeaAOTF3 3. Let's troubleshoot the high limit switch. Place a jumper wire between the two wires going to the switch. (Again we never want to keep the jumper in place, this is just for troubleshooting. It is crucial that all safety switches in the stove are connected and operating properly.) Let's start there and keep us posted. Also a good thing to make sure the stove and venting have been thoroughly cleaned and the door gasket and ash door gasket look and feel to be making good seals. Happy to assist.

[@JeremySzydzik]

5:05 pm My control borad quit working. Does not turn on. It's a pelpro 130. Can I by pass this control board by building my own control box? The part is on back order. Still on back order

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I just inquired with our inventory team on this control board and the arrival from factory. I'll send an update once I hear back. The control/circuit board would not be able to be bypassed. It controls all motors, blowers, and safety switches during operation.

[@EarthSense]

I just heard back from Inventory. The date they are currently receiving from the manufacturer is 02/02/2024. I wish we had a better update for you; if anything changes and they arrive in sooner we will be sure to let you know. Thanks.

[@MaxKharevsky]

Very, very helpful video👏

[@EarthSense]

Great to hear! If you any future questions or need assistance just let us know. Thanks!

[@sunsmile57]

Can you make a video FS enviro empress wiring harass, I removed all wires to replace parts and troubleshoot my stove, I did cut off plastic ties to make more room but all my white wires got screwed up….I made a real mess 😢

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, sorry to hear of the frustrations. We can certainly add that to our list of videos, however it may be some time before we could complete that. Page 25 on the link below will be the wiring schematic for the Empress FS model. This should be a solid guide as you get things re-wired. www.manualslib.com/manual/797489/Enviro-Empress-1-Fs.html?page=25#manual Happy to help however we can. Thanks!

[@leafeater5453]

Thanks man. You saved me lots of money and time!

[@EarthSense]

Fantastic to hear! Thank You!!

[@juanjoserinconrincon1789]

Hey my pelpro pp130 is not feeding and I create a jumper like that but still not working, can you please help me

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. I would suggest we first make sure the auger motor is in operable condition. Link below to make a test cord to test your motor to direct wall power. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 If your auger motor is good we can take a look at the safety switches in your stove. Let's also make sure that you have performed a thorough cleaning on the stove and vent pipe. Let's make sure there are no ash blockages and that your door gasket seals are nice and tight. Happy to assist, Keep us posted.

[@carnini]

Used this jumper feature this week due to an issue with my XXV stove not starting. Used the jumper wire and realized the safety switch vacuum tube was no good.

[@EarthSense]

Awesome Chris, glad the video was helpful! Here is the replacement hose for reference. If you need anything just let us know. Thanks! pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-vacuum-pressure-switch-silicone-tubing-hose-aftermarket/

[@anthonysaponaro6318]

Awesome, I was wondering if this could be done with the harman but with the addition of the ignitor being also in line to that switch I was not certain, I replaced my ignitor, my auger motor and my esp probe and my issue is my led on control panel for ignitor does not illuminate and ignitor does not get hot, on stoves like the Avalon the only thing connected to the vac switch is the auger motor . . . .thanks for any advice, this video in itself is a lot as I was not certain about jumping this one out for testing

[@anthonysaponaro6318]

I know some stoves have high and low limit disks /High when tripped can be reset but usually if that is tripped the entire stove will not get power, I am very familiar with many Pellet stoves just not the Harman.

[@EarthSense]

Anthony, Thanks for contacting us. Your igniter operates directly in line with your control board; no other safety switches control your igniter coming on and shutting off in the Harman. Let's first determine if your igniter is good or bad. Use a simple multi-meter and check the ohms on the igniter. Optimal range for the Harman finned igniter is 45-53. If your ohms are outside of that range you will need to replace the element. If your ohms are in that range and you have no igniter light on the board or power coming to the igniter, then in 99.9% of the cases it would be an issue with your control board. Also important to check the igniter area and clean out any ash, check the burnpot holes and make sure they are all open, and check your air intake to ensure nothing is obstructing. It's the hot air rushing past the igniter that lights your fire. Let us know what you find, happy to assist.

[@anthonysaponaro6318]

@@EarthSense thank you for the reply. I was suspecting circuit board,have no igniter light on the board or power coming to the igniter but was not sure if the vac switch was interrupting the power as I see one of the light blue wires going to it along with the auger.

[@EarthSense]

@@anthonysaponaro6318 Certainly our pleasure Anthony. Yeah the Vac switch will have no power control over the igniter element. This is a timing sequence in the control board. What model do you have? Happy to send you a link so you can view the right control board if you need to replace it. Thanks

[@anthonysaponaro6318]

@@EarthSense thank you again for the help, the model is the Accentra

[@jamesh4801]

I have a lennox winslow P140 . Stove stopped working 10 mins after startup. Trouble code was 2 short red blinking lights . It told me to change POF switch. Bought a NEW POF switch, installed it and still have the SAME problem. IF I jump it and stove works, whats next? Buy ANOTHER NEW switch? If I jump it and stove doesnt start up, whats next? control board? Thanks

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us James, happy to help. It would be rare that a new POF switch would be faulty, however we have seen that before. If it is faulty, should be able to get that covered under warranty and a new one shipped out (1 Year Warranty on IHP replacement parts). It could be as simple as not enough pellets came through upon start-up. Lets add a half handful of pellets to the firepot prior to startup so we know for sure that it is getting hot enough during that period for that POF switch to lock in. From there we can jump that switch to rule out if that is the issue or not. If no change when jumped then I think the next item to look at will be our vacuum switch - I know it's not giving a vac switch code, however we want to try to troubleshoot the basics first before we lean towards this being a possible circuitry issue. Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@jimbobrennan8011]

Thank you, trying this on my king 550 series now. It just shuts down with E2 error code

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. The manual says the ERR2 error code on the King 5500 indicates the unit ran out of fuel in operation/lost proof of fire. It provides these notes: Hopper Empty. Auger output failure or jam. Flame of fuel quality caused fire to burn too slowly or go out. Electrical Open in low temperature switch or wiring. Keep us posted, happy to help. Here is the manual for reference: www.manualslib.com/manual/266397/United-States-Stove-King-Ashley-Pellet-Stove-5500.html?page=18

[@shadowr4636]

My distribution fan in my Harmon pellet stove is not working. I connected it using a test wire, motor works. When I reinstalled it in the pellet stove it did not work. Any ideas?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Shadow, happy to help. Glad you were able to test the fan to direct power and determine it's not the motor itself. The ESP Thermister Probe along with the Control Board will allow your stove to turn the distribution fan on once it reaches proper temp. Let's start with your ESP probe. Let's do a thorough cleaning on it and see if that fixes our issue. If it does not, we may need to look at replacement of the ESP probe and/or circuit board. Video here on cleaning the probe, let us know what you find. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaWan6F9gr6IY80 Thanks,

[@shadowr4636]

@@EarthSense Hello, I cleaned the ESP probe, however I think it's the motor. I heard a buzzing sound coming from the distribution motor, so I banged on it,it came on but sounded horrible.

[@EarthSense]

@@shadowr4636 Thanks for the message Shadow. OK, so we know the motor is trying to run and comes on when you hit it - yeah I think it's safe to say this is an issue with the motor; especially if the noise emitting is not normal. Depending on the Harman model you have there are a few different style distribution fans and aftermarket options. If you need assistance on the correct replacement options for your model just let us know. Thanks!

[@shadowr4636]

Thank you, your videos are great by the way.

[@EarthSense]

@@shadowr4636 Thanks Shadow! You're most welcome; any questions or needs down the road just let us know. Appreciated!

[@mauricedelarosa660]

I’m guessing you can’t agree with me to bypass the limit switch for the hopper door on my Lopi AGP pellet stove, but my stove is in a vacation rental and every so often a pellet ends up next to the limit switch and prevents the switch from tripping when the hopper door is closed. As my rental is in the Sierras, it can dip near it below zero at night. As my guests review their experience and this affects my ratings and bookings, even if it’s not my fault, I can get blamed when they refill the hopper and the stove doesn’t work due to the occasional stray pellet. I realize that there are lots of safety features engineered into a modern pellet stove, but I can’t figure out what purpose the limit switch for the hopper door serves. So, I’m tempted to bypass it. Even if you can’t recommend that I bypass the switch, can you at least tell me the importance, from a safety perspective, for keeping the switch?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Maurice - apologies I did not see your comment until now. During operation, if the hopper was left open it can affect the combustion air flow having an effect on the fire efficiency. On a safety end of things, if the fire was ever to go up the pellet drop chute and reach the hopper, if the hopper lid was open, the air would fuel the fire. Also, sometimes folks would dig in the hopper if something was binding or jamming during operation and the hopper switch shutting off the auger would prevent their hand from being hurt the churning auger shaft. I would suggest creating notes on the hopper lid to make sure the hopper lid is always shut while the unit is in operation, and I would make a note regarding fueling to ensure your renters move the pellets once filled so they do not obstruct the hopper switch. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed, just for troubleshooting. Any other questions please let us know. Very appreciated.

[@teucer4]

My Breckwell Classic Cast does not even have a hopper door safety switch.

[@yesrealtygroup1989]

I cannot add a photo in the comment section. Is there another way I could contact you, and attach a photo?

[@EarthSense]

Certainly. You can email us at [e-mail]. Mention in the email KZbin tech support - Attention Taylor. The team will get it over to me. Thanks.

[@stephanieneumann3754]

I have quadrafire cab 50 I'm on my 2end vacuum switch in5 months is that normal

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Stephanie. I would say that is not normal. Generally speaking vacuum switches have a fairly long lifespan. We have seen premature failures, but it's pretty rare. Keep in mind there are many elements that can trip the vacuum switch and not allow it to work - here's a short video overview on vacuum/pressure switches for reference. If you are experiencing any troubles or need assistance just let us know, we are happy to help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnnIgq2Loriff6c

[@mustangpassurchevy]

I have a vogelzang model 5790. It wont ignite. I cleaned the unit and manually started the unit by lighting the pellets, but it shuts down after about 20 seconds and flashes a E2 code.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. It sounds like it's not reaching proof of fire and going into an error code. If you need a new igniter let us know. When manually lighting the fire, use a bit more pellets to start and see if that will allow it to lock in to normal operation model. If not, you may want to check your proof of fire low limit Snap Disc. Happy to help, thanks.

[@Gear1993Head]

Low limit switch. It's by the exhaust blower motor on the left hand side.

[@lorenq82]

What connectors were used to attach to the wire?

[@EarthSense]

These are just basic Male and Female Spade Molex Connectors. Make sure you get them at the proper gauge for your wire size.

[@tommywebb5345]

High there folks at earth sense.I have castle free standing stove she is about 16 to 18 years old looks like an auger feed problem. Checked out Auger motor ,motor is good. Replaced front door gasket,replaced vacuum switch ,checked snap breakers all seem to be ok.When I plug stove in the blue light flashes a series of times the only red I get is the red light on tin box behind control board. No green light . Any light you can shed on this matter would be appreciated. Control board maybe?…

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Is your Castile feeding any pellets on start-up? I assume you have tested the auger motor to direct power to verify it's working correct? How many flashes are you getting from the blue light? Let's check your combustion blower - it should be running near line voltage on start-up. There needs to be enough vacuum created by the combustion blower to lock in the vacuum switch for the unit to feed during start-up. Let's also double check the vent and make sure there are no obstructions. There's a possibility this could be a control box issue, but let's go over the basics and check the simple things first. Happy to help, keep us posted.

[@tommywebb5345]

No pellets on start up,tested auger motor to direct power tested good. I’m getting 4 blue light blinks a series of 6 times then no more blue at all. Voltage is good at fan motor. I have tried pulling a vacuum on vacuum switch manual by sucking on vacuum hose going to switch in the beginning of cycle with no luck when vacuum hose is only connected to stove I can’t really detect any vacuum hose seems clear when blowing thru it towards stove.again anymore help would be greatly appreciated

[@EarthSense]

​@@tommywebb5345 Hey Tommy, thanks for the info. When the Control Box is set to #4, the blue light will blink 4 times in sequence for 60 seconds during start-up. This is normal. Have you bypassed the vacuum switch altogether at this point with a jumper wire? Any change if so? It may be an area/cavity in the stove that is blocked with ash and will not allow the vacuum switch to close. If we bypass it completely for troubleshooting we can rule that out. We can do the same thing with the #3 High Limit switch. The only other item besides the control board that could prevent the auger motor from turning would be the Thermocouple, but generally speaking even with a bad thermocouple it would feed during start-up so I'm not leaning towards that. In my eyes our culprit is either something plugged in the stove or vent that is not allowing the vacuum to close, the vacuum switch itself, high limit switch issue, or control box issue. Start with the simple things and keep us posted. Thanks!

[@mikedavidson1970]

My auger turns but no pellet s drop😕 ideas?

[@EarthSense]

What stove make and model do you have? Double check the connection set pin collar or locking collar bolt the connects the auger shaft to the auger motor. Provide as many details as you can, happy to help. Thanks.

[@mikedavidson1970]

@@EarthSense vogelzang vg5770 I believe.. locking pin and bolt seem fine and everything turns just no pellets come down chute.

[@EarthSense]

@@mikedavidson1970 Thanks for the info Mike. If both your auger motor and auger shaft are turning but no pellet fuel is coming down the chute, the only thing I can think of is either the auger motor is turning the wrong direction, or your auger shaft flights are worn to a point where they cannot churn the fuel upwards. Your VG5770 model will use a 1 RPM Counter Clockwise Auger Motor - Direction is determined when facing the motor shaft. Let's start by verifying your auger motor is turning the correct direction. Here is a link for the auger motor and link beneath this if you need to reverse the direction. pellethead.com/product/ussc-vogelzang-breckwell-auger-feed-agitator-stir-motor-1-rpm-counter-clockwise-w-hole-aftermarket/ kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXjGZ4imn9Cqnqs Keep us posted, thanks!

[@MrTomtusti]

My intake air safety switch has 3 wires , how do I bypass ?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Tom, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have and what are the colors of the 3 wires going to your vacuum/air switch?

[@MrTomtusti]

Its a Hearthstone Manchester ( model 8330) There is a red , white , and black wire. Thanks in advance.

[@EarthSense]

@@MrTomtusti Thanks for the info Tom. I just messaged our lead tech on this - I believe it would be the white and black wire, but I want to make sure. As soon as I hear back from our technical team I will follow-up. Thanks.

[@MrTomtusti]

@@EarthSense Thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@MrTomtusti Hey Tom, here is the response from our tech. Being we don't have experience with the Hearthstone Manchester model, it may be good to contact the factory direct on this and troubleshooting. Here is what our tech had to say: If he has a 3 wire switch that means that it can be read as a normally open or a normally closed switch. I have not seen where all three terminals are connected as it is usually one or the other. To bypass a switch that requires all three terminals to be hooked up for operation you would need to build a Y jumper and hook up the NO and NC terminals to the top of the Y and the third terminal to the bottom. I am not familiar with this manufacturer or model stove so I do not know for sure if he actually needs both hooked up. Hope this is helpful, thanks again for reaching out.

[@notforposers]

I have the same pellet stove here. I’m getting sick of troubleshooting it. The auger is a never ending nightmare. I replaced the motor two weeks ago and last night (night before thanksgiving) it stopped feeding. Spent until 1am trying to troubleshoot it. Now it could be the damn vacuum switch?! Pellet stoves aren’t worth the headache and are unreliable. I thoroughly clean my stove and pipes every season and in between seasons. I’m most likely gonna go back to wood or natural gas. Too many parts to malfunction and too damn expensive. I’m over it.

[@EarthSense]

Sorry to hear of the troubles and frustrations. We are happy to help troubleshoot with you and go over common causes for things if you want. Happy to help however we can. Thanks.

[@notforposers]

@@EarthSense Thanks for the response. Turned out to be a slipping chain. Problem was resolved and I really do appreciate the response. I was super frustrated that night because we had to move our thanksgiving plans to another family member’s house. Just bad timing for the pellet stove to malfunction.

[@EarthSense]

@@notforposers Completely understandable. Very glad to hear you figured out is was a chain issue and were able to get that resolved. Always here to help if you need us, just drop a line. Thanks so much!

[@wakeywakey4289]

I Keep getting a vacuum fault reading. I bypassed the vacuum switch to see if it would run in a test. Smoke started bellowing out of the unit from everywhere.

[@EarthSense]

Happy to assist here. The vacuum switch only controls power to the auger. The vacuum switch will shut off power to the auger motor if the switch is bad, there's ash restriction in the stove/exhaust, gasket seal issues around the door/ashpan, weak combustion blower or any combination thereof. If you have smoke bellowing out of the unit, you will want to take a look at the combustion/exhaust blower. If that blower is not functioning properly it cannot expel the exhaust and smoke will come into the house. Additionally if the combustion blower is weak it will trip that Vacuum switch. Take a close look at the motor and test the voltage. If you need any replacement parts, we are happy to assist. We guarantee the best prices and stock everything for Harman. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks,

[@wakeywakey4289]

@@EarthSense Tried bypassing the switch again..For some reason today its still giving a vacuum fault even after bypassing switch signal...Cleaned exhaust so I know thats clear.

[@wakeywakey4289]

@@EarthSense Is there an easy way to test the combustion motor or do i need to remove to test? Thx

[@EarthSense]

@@wakeywakey4289 Have you checked the voltage of the Combustion Blower yet? That blower motor should be running at near line voltage during start-up. Let me know once you have checked that.

[@wakeywakey4289]

@@EarthSense Took the wires off where they plug into the( brain)? jumpered wires to the motor directly. motor just sitting there humming....maybe carboned up and not letting blades revolve?

[@dennisheagy1175]

Super helpful save me a service call thanks

[@EarthSense]

Wonderful to hear Dennis! Any future questions or assistance needed please let us know. Much appreciated!

[@twobanger21]

As a electrical troubleshooter I would tell somebody yo use a meter in continuity than bypass a safety. All they need to do is lightly blow or suck the clear tube and listen for the beep. My 2 cents.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Nick. Yes a continuity meter will work well for testing the vac switch - like you mentioned lightly blowing and sucking to create and break connection. For other switches like high limits, low limits, fan switches, etc.. they only close or open at set temps, so the jumper wire bypass can be the easiest method there when troubleshooting. Appreciate your input, any questions or needs just let us know. Thanks!

[@twobanger21]

I have seen too many failures where the jumper is left in and unit gets damaged because there was no safety. It's the Karen in me! Lol

[@twobanger21]

By the way, you are doing a great job explaining how to repair this equipment!

[@EarthSense]

@@twobanger21 Yeah, it's absolutely crucial a jumper is only used for testing/troubleshooting - safety switches are called safety switches for a reason and need to be correctly in place and functioning during operation; 100% with you. Really appreciate it Nick!

[@EarthSense]

@@twobanger21 Really appreciated Nick! Thanks so much!!

[@subarutime5089]

Cool ill just bypass all the safety switches 😂

[@EarthSense]

Bypassing is for troubleshooting ONLY. Safety switches are there for a reason - Safety. It is crucial that safety switches are connected and working properly during operation. Any questions or assistance needed please let us know. Thanks.

[@subarutime5089]

@@EarthSense but it works better when everything is bypassed 😂 😂

[@britneyystaples91]

@@subarutime5089 the lid safety switch is fine to bi pass for a few days because its common sense not to stick your hand down into the auger lol.

[@eronfitz]

It’s called a safety switch for a reason, it should never be left bypassed for any longer than than it takes to diagnose the problem

[@EarthSense]

Yes, that is 100% correct. For troubleshooting purposes only as we are indicating. Thank you.

[@spytdi]

Thanks Francis

[@garekhurt1958]

I found a paper clip bypassing this pellet stove this morning. Plugged the leads back in and it worked perfectly. Why it was bypassed, we don’t know. Sketchy!

[@kurtmiller627]

No a bad video but rule of thumb before you do any video ZIP YOUR PANTS UP.

[@EarthSense]

Thank you, yes. My mistake on that and will be sure it's up on all videos moving forward. Appreciated.

[@Subie-Driver]

Kurt Miller the fact that you caught that is scarey

[@jewishcrackerful]

Noooo leave it 😜 he’s cute 👀

[@craigforcier8609]

do you know your barn door is open... ;-)

[@EarthSense]

Yeah... My bad on that Craig. I'm double checking that on all vids moving forward :) Thanks!

[@craigforcier8609]

@@EarthSense good video and great prices. Will shop your site for parts

[@EarthSense]

@@craigforcier8609 Thanks so much Craig - Greatly appreciated. Any questions on anything just let us know. Happy Friday!

[@-.._.-_...-_.._-..__..._.-.-.-]

I have 3 wires.

[@EarthSense]

What Make and Model and what switch are you referring to? Happy to assist. Thanks.