How to do a Full Bust Adjustment- Pattern Drafting for Beginners

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If you're larger than a D cup, it can be really frustrating to get patterns to fit. If you go for the bust measurement, it's big everywhere else...If you go by the overbust, there's no room for your tatas...
Watch this! I will show you how to make more room for your girls without compromising the fit everywhere else.
Hooray!
Pattern tutorial suitable for beginner+ or intermediates.
English subtitles are available on this video.
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[@Rileygirl746]

WOWZA ! I watched your tutorial yesterday and left a comment and last night made my pattern alterations starting and stopping my iPad to catch up with you step-by-step. My main concern was keeping the high bust measurement the same which is the area that I always had a problem restricting the front armhole which I thought was too tight but actually needed to be smaller.. Your method for FBA retains the high bust while adding the FBA but the MOST AMAZING result of your tutorial was that It lowered the dart with the redrawing of the dart to my apex.!! I did not have to do the FBA and then cut out the dart and move it down. Yours is the only tutorial I have found that does that and therefore it solved all my personal fit issues. I have sewed for over 50 years and could never sew for myself because I never got the adjustments correct. I am 77 and so excited to get going again.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Oh hooray!!! Sandra this makes me so happy!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗 I'm so glad you found this useful 💜💜💜

[@Faystory]

The BEST full bust adjustment explanation and demo that I have ever watched! And I have watched a lot.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Awww hooray!! That is awesome to hear and thanks for commenting 🥰 let me know how it goes if you try it 💜

[@DebraWickerson]

The best explanation that I have seen on FBA. Thank you

[@rhondacronkhite606]

Excellent tutorial. The little details help it to make sense.

[@kathrynd1936]

My new sewing routine always starts with following this tutorial to do my FBA on any pattern. FBA = FAB.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

😂 Love that! 🥰🥰🥰

[@kimberjinbodatu7761]

This is honestly the best bust pattern manipulation tutorial ive watched so far 💗 thank you!! You’re doing aMAZING ❤

[@LaurraineBarrington-mf4op]

Hello Serafina, I have now watched your 3 videos for making a bodice block which explains about transferring the body measurements to the pattern & answers my last question. Thank you for making it all so clear.😊

[@sherryh9921]

I have been reading many sites and watching videos on this topic. Yours in the BEST. I understand how it's supposed to be done now. Your use of the changing pattern pieces and explanations of each measurement and how to use them made all the difference for me. I also appreciate the PDF instruction booklet. Thank you so much!

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Thanks for your feedback Sherry, I am so happy you found it useful 😁 xx

[@zabnol]

Excellent explanation and demonstration of an FBA!

[@elainemartin5784]

Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I've watched quite a few and that was the clearest one yet. I've subscribed to your channel as you make sense.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

This makes me so happy! I'm glad you enjoyed it 💜💜💜

[@rowinamediastini7839]

This is the best Method I've never seen or imagined 👍😉 ! Thanks so much ❣️

[@abdoabdoabdo9538]

Thank you for this amazing work

[@annemcpherson6142]

Thank you , you’ve explained this process perfectly and made it easier for me to understand

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

I'm so happy it's helped 😁

[@Lanmn]

Very well explained. Very useful too

[@TheFondasue1]

Very helpful!! Thank you!!

[@robinmazariegos1]

This was the best!!!! thank you so much!

[@eonarts]

This is my SECOND time doing this! I was in a beginning flat pattern class and wanted to make the block that I used my size which with my slight body disphoria was a size 12 rather than an 8. I did an FBA and made the side dart 3.5” total (from the original 1.75”). As I worked on the fit of my block my size slowly went to a 10 and suddenly there was too much fabric around the apex! So I went through this again and now I’ve scaled it back down 1/2”. Hopefully this will be the end and I can move on! I love how your video is so easy to understand (especially along side my class which has a lot of slash and spread)

[@elter1979]

Thank you very much for this tutorial, Your explanation makes it very easy to understand. Thank you for the pdf also. Much appreciated

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You are super welcome! Thanks for watching 🥰🥰🥰

[@slastenushkaslast3402]

The going into corner of armsyc to protect the high bust meaurent is so good :)

[@gladyscolon9494]

You video was very informative. I will replay it to do a FBA to a blouse pattern that I can't seem to get the FBA correct on. Many thanks!

[@lisaammerman9846]

Thank you so much! Your perfect instructions ended my struggles

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hooray!! Oh that's so good to hear 🥰🥰🥰

[@LindahsArtHouse]

Looking forward to trying this. Thank you! New subscriber! 🧵 💕

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hooray! And welcome!!

[@nancydann6338]

Excellent tutorial and thank you for the PDF.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You're so welcome 🥰🥰🥰

[@Knittyneeds]

Greetings from France 🥰 Congratulations🏆🏆🏆. Absolutely stunning. A big Wowwwwwwzzzy. Watched many videos and yours is THE BEST with additional detail and so well explained. 😮😮😮 Thanks for sharing caring and making me SMILE 🥰🥰🥰❤️❤️❤️🌹🌹🌹👍👍👍 A big hug from my Newfoundland and me 🤗🤗🤗

[@maureencoe3473]

Enjoyed your tutorial, it was so easy to understand. This will be so helpful to my future sewing projects. Thank you very much. A New subscriber

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Thanks Maureen! I'm glad to have you in the gang 🥰🥰🥰

[@qormi1000]

Thank you Fina.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You're so welcome. Let me know how you get on! x

[@SHAZIANAJAM]

Excellent! I was working on size 10 pattern during my last smester and have to work on my own body measurements in my spring smester. i was looking to adjust my bust measurement and your video helped me a lot.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hooray! This is fab to hear. Our bodies are VERY different to the mannequins they give you at college & uni, I wish they used more inclusive shapes & sizes.

[@marianredmond9366]

Excellent

[@nz-nz]

Great tutorial thanks!

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You're so welcome :)

[@dianarutecki9810]

Best ever example thank you

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Yay! Let me know how you get on xx

[@LaurraineBarrington-mf4op]

This is a brilliant tutorial. I now feel confident in making the adjustments necessary for a good fit. Can you help further by explaining how to transfer the nape to nipple measurement to find the bust point onto the pattern from the body measurement as the pattern stops at the shoulder seams. Thank you for your clear patient instructions.

[@Rileygirl746]

Brilliant method. By slashing at the bottom of the armscye it does not alter the high bust measurement and there is where mine ends up too wide and affects my arm movement. At least I think that is what my issue is. Otherwise I may need some other adjustments. I have always been able to sew for others but never fit myself. I am going to try this right now. I also have to lower the dart, but I can do that.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Exactly! Slashing it to the corner also means that you can hinge the pattern, so you're not having to add in an extra dart or anything 😁 Let me know how you get on with this and thanks for commenting 💜💜💜

[@sharmilachandool4603]

Thank you for this video because i alway end up with very big armholes i have big bust 44DD and back small and my high is 4 ft 11" i never get a proper fit with ready made clothes .this really helps me thanks . Could you make an video drafting a basic block pattern without the mannequin please i don't have an mannequin. Thanks in advance ☺️

[@mkrekeler2]

I love your video. I struggle with FBA for some reason. I have a question I'm sure you can answer. My high bust is 38. My full bust is 42. If I use a pattern that matches my high bust but the finished measurement at the bust is say 44 higher than my full bust; do I need a FBA?

[@valeriepoole1535]

Hi thank you for a very informative tutorial. I would like to know if you do a video on a fba for a waist only dart. I need the fba adjustment, but need to keep the waist dart, but add no other dart to the garment, as it is an empire style pattern. I've got so far, but am stuck as to how to refine the waist dart, and make the hemline even, which has a slight curve to it. Not sure if you can help but would be glad if you could. Thanks ... Val.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Thanks for your question! I need further info: you need to do an FBA on an empire line style? Dart under the bust? If you could send a picture, I'd be able to get a better idea of your question. Thanks 💜

[@valeriepoole1535]

Hello, thank you for responding to my question. Yes there is a very small dart dust under the bust coming from the waist. There are no other darts in the pattern, I need to do a fba as my bust is 44" and an H cup size. I am not sure how to upload a picture to You tube, but I may be able to send it to you via email. I think I can follow your instructions up to a point, but the query may be in the width of the top compared to the waist. I think it will come out larger. I will see if I can email you the picture of the dress on the pattern. Many thanks for your help. Val.

[@melissaquinn1463]

Fingers crossed, I think this will work. I have an added complication. My pattern is hip length with a football shaped waist dart. This is where a mock-up will be handy. I'll just pinch out the vertical dart while fitting my client. Things may change as I'm working through the design lines and proportions.

[@lynnejones257]

Hi, thank you for your comprehensive full bust adjustment video. There is six inches between my upper bust and full bust measurements. Do I create two darts first and then expand, or do I expand the single dart and then make it into two? Many thanks Lynne

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hi Lynne, based on a 6" total difference, you'll deduct the 2" that already exists within the block and divide the remains 2" (as the block represents half the body). So your FBA amount will be 2" :)

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You'll probably be ok keeping one dart, if you want to split it into two then do it after you've adjusted your block, otherwise major headaches would ensue 🤣🤣

[@Lanmn]

Thank you for this tutorial. I wanted to ask does it matter which direction we close the shoulder dart..left or right ..on the cloth?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hiya, thanks for your question:) no, it doesn't matter, but I prefer to push the fabric away from the neck, because if you push it towards the neck then the inner dart fabric will need to be trimmed away :)

[@juliegonzales649]

Hi, can you tell where you got your design ruler? I have been looking for one like this and I can't find one. Is it a good thickness? I appreciate your help.

[@noels29ed50]

I only have the dart to my waist. You mentioned at the start you might need to move around to the side to do the adjustment. How do I do that?

[@TinaSalamander]

@FinaMakes - I used the link for the PDF but it took me to a page for a skirt block. How do I get the PDF for the FBA?

[@pj595]

Thanks, this is helpful. Could you list the types of rulers that are helpful for pattern drafting please.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hi Joan, sure! I have a video explaining the equipment that I use and I go through the types of ruler in there :) take a look and let me know what you think 💜 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJqqppqHhrSmoac

[@pj595]

@@thecreativecouturestudio that's grand, thanks

[@lynnejones257]

I enjoyed your video. What if you only have waist darts? Do you create a bust dart for FBA? Thanks Lynne

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Yes, for best results. Draw the new dart line position and open it up to incorporate fitting. Then mark your bust point on and draw in the new dart lines/legs. Let me know how you get on xx

[@judithaltoft4690]

Hi i watched your video on fba, it was very good but could you tell me as im a 42 in bust so an inch fba but do i size down on the paper pattern, hope you can help and thanks for the great tutorial x

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Apologies for my delayed response! I need a bit more info- what size pattern are you using? Choose the pattern size based on the overbust, rather than bust measurement (if you have the physical pattern and they haven't supplied the overbust measurement, then you can measure the pattern yourself to see what it is). Most companies use a 2" difference between overbust and bust.

[@petrasbodyworks2448]

Thanks Fina. You mentioned that the bust measurements should be through the shoulder blades. At what point of the Shoulder blades?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Measure through the widest point of the bust- making sure that the tape measure is parallel to the floor. The shoulder blade area is quite big, so it's wherever the tape measure hits when parallel. X

[@minnieshao8108]

Hi thank you for this tutorial does this increases the front length

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Only over the bust :) the side seam length stays the same xo

[@veenam.r9802]

Thank you mam. Waist dart n bust has become more.n upper bust width also become more.pls make d video on how to take 2 darts on bustdart side and waist dart side.thank you again

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hiya and thanks for your question! I've made this video and will release it very soon. I just moved house so everything is currently in boxes! :)

[@fezzehbabaki1054]

❤❤❤

[@terryash3303]

Does that method increase the length of the bodice from bust point to waist ?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hi Terry, yes it does, but only across the bust area (not the side seam). Think of the bust as a spherical shape- by lengthening AND widening you ensure that the garment stays level 😁

[@sandraobrien8705]

What do you do please, if your upper bust is between two sizes? My full bust is 2 inches larger than my upper bust but my upper bust is 39 inches, so between size 38 and size 40? Do I use 38 and add a full bust adjustment of one inch?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

If you have a pattern with multi sizes, then cut in between the two size lines. It doesn't sound like you need an FBA. Or- if you have to choose one size, go for the larger one and take it in where needed 💜

[@Nadine-xb4oj]

Can I use this method also to reduce the bust size? I find I have problems with patterns because to fit my waist I always have too much space on the bust area, and trying to adjust my darts get really high up. How can I reduce a bust size without changing the waist measurement?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hi Nadine, apologies for my delayed response!! To reduce the bust size, follow the steps up to where you cut along the lines, but instead of expanding them out, overlap them to make them smaller. Measure your overbust and bust to check the amount. Let me know how you go x

[@mariakelly1534]

If the pattern is drafted for a C cup but I’m a B cup size, can I use your tutorial to make the adjustment?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Sorry for the delayed response! A dressmakers cup is different to a bra cup, so if you think your bust is smaller than the pattern I'd advise making it up and pinning out the excess. An SBA (small bust adjustment) is just the opposite of an FBA. Cut the same lines, but close it out instead of expanding. Hope this helps 💜

[@aandjmom1]

I know this is a year later but can SOMEONE please explain how to match up the NEW SIDE SEAM with the original BACK. SIDE SEAM? NONE of the FBA tutorial video NEVER address this issue. thanks in advance.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hiya, good question! The side seam length doesn't change- your dart gets bigger :) So when you sew it out, the seam maintains the same length. xo

[@aandjmom1]

@@thecreativecouturestudio okay. thanks. It just look so weird after its done.

[@lupa1445]

My difference between overbust and full bust is about 12 cm, or 4.7 inches - Could you consider showing what a full bust adjustment with that amount would look like? Just looking at my crazy-looking body block that doesn't have any darts between overbust and bust is making it feel completely impossible. Thank you so much in advance for any reply or advice.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Hiya 😁 Does your block have a bust dart anywhere? If so, the first thing to do is to move it to the side seam, then you can follow this tutorial. You don't actually need to do a very extreme FBA- the block will allow around 2", so you're left with 2.7"(7cm). Split that in half (because the block represents one half of the body) and your total amount to increase the block by is 1.35" (3.5cms) ooh decimal inches make my head spin 🤣🤣

[@lupa1445]

@@thecreativecouturestudio Hi! 😊 My block doesn't have a bust dart anywhere, because the tutorial I used didn't include them - I think I searched for body block drafting without darts because I wanted to make a more masculine style basic button up linen shirt without any darts. I thought about just extending the width right under the armscye(overbust) to be as wide as the full bust - but if I added the width there, I think I'd end up with a super wide armscye? I am a total complete beginner at this, I haven't even made my first mock-up of my body block because I ran into issues in the drafting process. Do you have a body block drafting video?? Thank you so much for your advice & time and again in advance for any additional answer!🌼🌻🌸🌹😊💗

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

Ah ok. With the dartless/masculine shaped block there isn't built in allowance for boobs... The FBA is based on hinging the bust dart to add more width & length into the front bodice. To do an FBA on a dartless block is really intriguing! I'll think about this and try to make a tutorial :)

[@lupa1445]

@@thecreativecouturestudio Hi again - thank you for your reply! It'd be really great to see a tutorial like that, but I'd also just love to see how to add my own bust dart in my self-drafted body block - since my self-drafted body block puts all of the extra width into the side seam rather than into the body of the pattern piece. Thank you for your advice and help & I wish you a nice day :)

[@polaris299]

When I attempted the download of this PDF, I got a PUP warning and then a warning about a Trojan virus. Is there a way to fix that?I'd really like the print-version of this tutorial.

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

That's so annoying! Thanks for letting me know, I'll fix this today. X

[@polaris299]

@@thecreativecouturestudio Thanks very much, Fina. I was able to safely download the FBA file. I really appreciate having this guide. I always end up with lots of excess fabric in the upper bust area of me-made tops and now I know how to correct for that. Thank you so much. 😃

[@deenachouhan]

Mem i am indian i seen regular vedio this draft how apply to cloth .?

[@thecreativecouturestudio]

You can either trace it off on to paper, add seam allowances and then pin it to the fabric, or you can use a tracing wheel & carbon paper- pattern on top, fabric underneath, carbon paper between a (carbon side towards fabric) and then trace the lines. Good luck 🥰

[@deenachouhan]

My measurment blouse Length =14 Shoulder back=12 Shoulder front=11 Apex length=10. 5 Upper bust=34(round) Full bust=38(round) Waist=30(round) Backneck depth=10 Front neck depth=7 Problem face:- 1. Armhole under wrinkle 2. Shoulder fall 3. Tide front chest Upper bust=34&fullbust=38 (4inch difference how cover I face very problem is armhole wrinkle mem plz solve my problem . I can not speak english but your vedio see regular.

[@sourivongkhemphet5252]

👍👍👍🙏🥰💐

[@alishiri8230]

Very dood

[@amingad4]

❤❤❤