How To Do Perfect Vacuum Resin Infusion of a Carbon Fibre (Fiber) Part - Basic Tutorial

[@stevesloan6775]

Ten years ago!!! That is top shelf dedication. This video is still so relevant in 2021... Well done! 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎🤓

[@mjremy2605]

Now I see why carbon fiber is so pricey! What a process, wow! This is an excellent video and very well explained. Thank you for the demo and your dedication to producing beautiful carbon fiber products. You are a master craftsman!

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you found our video useful!

[@ebbonemint]

Wow, I’m 10 years late to this video and the knowledge is still invaluable. Having issues making a mold for a car door

[@easycompositestv]

Well, reach out to our technical dept if you’re using (or planning to use) our products; we’re happy to help.

[@TwinStarGenny]

@@easycompositestv Do you have a US supplier? I hope I don't have to pay the international shipping

[@MikeMasson728]

I'd also love to know if you have a US supplier.

[@raziehberah3386]

This is the best video I have seen about Infusion. Thank you for sharing

[@TheRaulr151]

This is the best tutorial I have seen on this process! Very detailed step by step. Thanks !

[@j121212100]

love the sound of those scissors!

[@loczaczix]

Funny thing is that I'm watching videos on how to do the infusian and only now I realised that I was working in company where we were doing exactly that but without resin itself. We were preparing the release film spiral lines etc for other department to lay it in gigantic molds. Parts were like 5m by 30m big. Thanks for great video.

[@easycompositestv]

You're welcome Prezydent, I'm glad this video has helped you to understand what it was you were doing!

[@BARCLYFARMSTED]

I was impressed as to the quality of the video we should all be so thorough. Thank you

[@easycompositestv]

Haha! Yes, they are good shears! They're made specially for us by William Whiteley of Sheffield. The blade angle is specifically for carbon fibre and then our touch was to have the serration put on the upper blade not the lower blade so that they slide through carbon without snagging it accidentally. PTFE coating keeps them sharper longer too. You'll find them on the Easy Composites website.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, definately. Lots of our customers do this and they say it improves their results. Strangely we've never needed to do this and we always get bubble-free perfect results but so many of them do it that there must be something in it. The catch-pot itself is generally what people use as a degassing chamber. You could degass several smaller batches in there if you had a lot of resin to do.

[@easycompositestv]

@xzu : We tend to trim all our parts with a Dremel using a Perma-Grit tungsten carbide wheel - they're amazing and last forever. Never trim using anything with 'teeth', always a gritted edge instead; teeth will chip the composite around the cut line. Once trimmed we use a Perma-Grit block to smooth the edge and then finish with different grits of abrasive paper (up to about 800). To finish either the part is lacquered or we just wax it and leave it at that.

[@dendihadinarta4469]

I'm from Indonesia, I can communicate via WhatsApp

[@boxer951]

I would say that is the best looking carbon fiber part i seen made on youtube. The materials used here look like good quality,like the actual carbon fiber looked perfect compared to others. Anyhow great videos. I hope my parts come out half as nice as this.

[@easycompositestv]

Thank you very much; that's generous comments indeed. Of course we're biased but I would agree that the materials we use and sell are often quite different from a lot of what's out there and - no surprises - that does have an impact on the end result. We'll never compromise on quality and I hope that's what people know us for. Anyway, stay tuned and I wish you all the best with your project.

[@zooknz1711]

Nice work guys, both the video and the finished part.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Zooknz, we're glad you liked it.

[@easycompositestv]

You can slow the resin flow using a line clamp on the resin feed. Alternatives are additional resin feed ports and or creative use of the infusion spiral and mesh to ensure the resin gets where you need it.

[@easycompositestv]

@vr6k3 : 'Post Curing' at elevated temperature is an excellent way to improve the mechanical properties and the Tg/HDT (glass transition temp/heat distortion temp) of a carbon part. The recommended post-cure cycle depends on the resin. With our infusion resin the recommended post-cure is 8hrs at 60*C which gives a HDT of 90*C. You can post-cure in the mould (even still vacced down) or demould first. If you demould first you'll need to ramp the temp up very slowly to avoid distortion.

[@willk3807]

2:37.... Tip... Lay the carbon so each layer has the weave direction different with each layer. This will result in a much stronger carbon part. Two layers of stagger sheets will be stronger and lighter than the four layers seen in this video. All that said....guy knows what he's talking about and Bob's your uncle

[@eriktempelman2097]

Well done! Will use this video in class in Delft. Congratulations.

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Eric, we have a new video on resin infusion in a couple of weeks as well, it’s the final part of our Arctic sledges series.

[@man9161]

@@easycompositestv M

[@easycompositestv]

That is why if you do it yourself you can save a lot of money and using a tutorial like ours, its not hard to understand the process and even a complete newbie with a bit of practice will start making nice parts.

[@koenrad]

Wow, now I understand why carbon fiber parts are so expensive. Great tutorial thanks.

[@bahaatamer1245]

marvelous... I'm building a race-car fuel tank out of carbon fiber tomorrow and I never manufactured anything like that before!

[@syprix]

This is so amazing I am gonna buy this kit and watch this video 100 times.

[@easycompositestv]

You need a split-mould and then, like Johnx says, you need something creating positive pressure on the inside, consoldating the fibre and resin to the outside of the tube. Once it's cured you would separate the two halves of the mould to get the part out and extract the bladder/expanding core from the inside of the tube. Composite tubes, particularly where the outside is the 'A' side are pretty complicated.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, they definately are. If you visit our forum; talkcomposites you'll find people making quad rotor bodies, dynamic soarers and all sorts of other RC planes where they're using resin infusion to make incredibly strong and light laminates.

[@DanFrederiksen]

a video on how to make the mold would be interesting. getting it smooth must be important and the right surface material

[@easycompositestv]

The only way to use the resin infusion process to create a double-A sided part (smooth finish both sides) would be to use a matched mould (so a front mould and a back mould) and then use an internal flow medium that the resin could flow through. The one we use most often is Lantor Soric (you'll see it used in our bonnet making video series), this means you don't need mesh for the resin to infuse through the part and so you can have a closed mould (like with RTM) allowing for a double A side.

[@aardvark9100]

You say "actually" a whole lot in this tutorial. To be precise, 41 times. Just amused me :) Great process! Some sites charge for their videos like this. Thanks for posting!

[@samievans9632]

Thank you for the information and a decent video.

[@gowthamramvasu4140]

Great and useful video. Perfect for beginners to understand

[@easycompositestv]

Thanks Gowtham, I hope you enjoy some of our other videos as much.

[@Gaza647]

Absolutely fantastic and wonderfully informative video

[@easycompositestv]

Really appreciate the kind feedback Osei, glad you enjoyed!

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, you can do this. You might actually still find that peel ply would be fine as rather than using a perforated film which you could then paint with a 2k paint and flat to get your smooth surface. It only takes a single coat of paint to fill the texture of a peel-ply into a smooth finish. The other film to consider would be a breadwrap which is much more perforated than a P3 perforated film and so would be less restricting on resin flow.

[@easycompositestv]

@DanFrederiksen : If you're starting with a CAD model the first thing would be to have the pattern CNC routed from tooling block (probably a high density polyurethane block) by a CNC company. It's not that expensive and they can work straight from Solidworks files. You would then hand finish and seal the pattern before setting up any flanges/barriers, coating it in release agent and then covering it in an epoxy tooling gelcoat and reinforcing the back with resin and glass or mould making putty.

[@markpaxton9670]

Fantastic instruction, you make so clear and easy to take on board. Excellent

[@easycompositestv]

-1 bar or -1000mbar or as near as you can possibly get. 99.99% vacuum is what our pump pulls and this is really what we would say you need. Anything less than an almost total vacuum will have a negative impact on the surface finish of your parts - the tell-tale sign generally being pin holes in the surface or tiny air bubbles in the laminate. Infusing under a near total vacuum will eliminate this.

[@monkfry]

That's how you do it son. Excellent demo. One question. Who makes those badass scissors and where can I buy them? I have several sizes and brands for different applications but god almighty the sound those make is music to my ears. Probably not so laboring on the hands too I bet. Nice vid.

[@Principe6900]

A few questions: 1) Would it help to degas the resin actively (via vacuum) in order to achieve a better result (air bubbles, etc.)? 2) If you cut the resin outflow as shown, what resin-fiber ratio do you achieve? 3) When closing vaccum hose as soon as a mix of resin and air is getting in, where resides the residual air inside and why does it not harm the product/laminate via bubbles? 4) Would leaving the vaccum hose open (pump on) after cutting resin inflow achieve a better resin-fiber ratio?

[@danielschipper1572]

Great explanation

[@derraswaderra6474]

Thanks for the video, and your passion Thanks again

[@easycompositestv]

You're welcome Derras :)

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, dead-right. It's 200gsm 2/2 twill 3k fibre. It's pretty much the most common weave and weight of carbon fibre. If you're having any trouble sourcing it then please get in touch with us, we stock thousands of metres and offer next-day delivery.

[@easycompositestv]

@Zyworski : You can degass but we've never found it neccesary. If you do, you need to be very careful that the resin does not exotherm in the pot whilst degassing causing it to gel prematurely. You need to be infusing 10 mins after mixing at the latest. The RICs (resin infusion connectors) are connected to the tube inside the bag, ours are designed for a 9mm OD tube to be pushed into them. Since the connector is *inside* the bag though, it doesn't have to be an airtight seal.

[@proboxpepper6752]

Thank you very much for your video, it helps me a lot with my learning! Cheers!

[@ME262B2]

Amazing! How about a tutorial on making a part sized oven. what I would like to build is multi part, how about bonding of structural parts to carbon and non carbon parts. One project Th think many of us would enjoy is that of making bicycle wheels, Aluminium rim hoops, aluminium hubs, etc. Thank you again! wow

[@Pushyhog]

Great videos. Filmography. Pro.

[@easycompositestv]

@RiMartinsRi : For the purposes of most composites 'room tempertaure' is assumed to be 20 degrees C. You'll find that pot-life and cure times are generally quoted for 20C or 25C, lower temperatures will slow down the cure (and elongate the pot-life) a lot, much below 15C and you're in danger of many epoxies not curing properly at all. For general composites the lower the humidy it the better. Only condensation cure silicones and some 1-part adhesives need humidy to cure.

[@easycompositestv]

@raining0724 : The mould used in this video is made of epoxy tooling gelcoat (the bright green finish that you see) and then backed up (reinforced) with epoxy mould making putty. Both of these materials are included in our Mould Making Starter Kit or can be purchased separately. The import thing (if you're going to use a chemical release like we do in this video) is to ensure that the mould's surface is made of epoxy, otherwise an epoxy part may stick in the mould.

[@DIYRockets]

Thank you so much for the video. Very helpful... in fact the only one I could find that clearly explained the whole vacuum resin infusion process! I do have a question though... why not clamp the line that is connected to the resin and let the vacuum pump pull out ALL of the excess resin into the catch pot?

[@easycompositestv]

+Clayton Birchenough : Well, you can do it this way round but if you do you're almost guaranteed to have some pin-holes on the surface because the laminate will become too dry. The trick to a perfect cosmetic finish is to let some excess resin into the laminate (just fractionally over the optimum 60/40 ratio) which will work miracles for the surface finish and eliminate any pin-holes or voids.

[@jimfarey]

I watched this even though I'm never likely to do it. So satisfying. Wish you did a couple of litre bag to attach to my vacuum cleaner so I could get a better pressure on my shoe outsole carbon layup haha

[@easycompositestv]

You can get the bags from a lot of supermarkets and home DIY type stores for use with basic wet lay up. They do not support the level of vacuum needed for resin infusion. You can see the simple vacuum bagging in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZuVZ5Zpi5pnibM

[@jimfarey]

@@easycompositestv this is incredible. Exactly what I needed to see. Thanks, you're so good! Defo recommending to everyone :)

[@ovalwingnut]

Always top-notch How-To videos. Thank you.

[@zacharylunn6209]

This is what i do for a living. Cool to see how other people do this process

[@salvatorecristiano2030]

Is it dangerous? I mean, do you have to wear some kind of masks?

[@MrSmashSr]

salvatore cristiano to trim it/sand it after it’s cured yes- but in the dry fabric state it’s safe to cut without a respirator. If you use the resins in a well ventilated area you shouldn’t need a respirator either, but that depends on your individual sensitivity to the fumes

[@smartmonkey777]

Very thorough explanation , thanks for this mate !

[@easycompositestv]

Hi, We use Perma-Grit tools which are tungsten carbide tools (like tile cutting tools). They're fantastic and last forever (you'll find a good range of them on our website). You would to the initial cut with a permagrit wheel in a dremmel and then finish the edge using a permagrit sanding block (or just some coarse abrasive paper wrapped round a block) before finishing the edge smooth by using finer grits of abrasive paper. A black wax crayon does a nice job of sealing and polishing a cut edge.

[@zliminator]

In addition to pulling a vacuum on the resin to get the air out before infusing the part, I've seen guys make a mixer that uses a rotating magnet under the resin container and a metal bar inside the resin so you don't introduce air into the resin by hand mixing.

[@easycompositestv]

Even using this type of mixer arrangement it's quite difficult to ensure there is no airation of the resin. Generally, we don't ever find a problem with it but if it's a concern or is causing problems then the only foolproof method would be to vacuum degass the resin, either in the catch-pot itself (being careful how you put that in and out of the system) or in a dedicated vacuum degassing chamber. We sell these on our website.

[@neung8528]

What kind of Vaccuum Pump , should I choose ? (such as how many L/min , how many BAR. ) you have a specification recommend for me. Thankyou very much for answer

[@easycompositestv]

A pump similar to JAVAC CC-31 is ideal: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-pumps-and-equipment/composites-vacuum-pump.html

[@easycompositestv]

@zliminator : Because the infusion is done under a full vacuum any 'air pockets' caused by the fibre 'bridging' wouldn't actually be 'air' pockets, they would literally be *empty* (no air or anything in them). Then, when the resin is allowed to flow into the part it will automatically want to fill these empty places with resin (because the resin is a path to ambient air pressure so it's effectively pressurised). The most likely thing, if you have 'voids' is that these will fill with resin.

[@p.ramkiran4967]

Thank you sir for the best explaination about Vacuum Resin Infusion. I am curious to know the material of Mold used could you tell me what kind of material it is?

[@easycompositestv]

The mould in this video uses our EG60 Tooling gelcoat and EMP60 moulding paste.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes, we got a pin-hole free, high gloss surface finish (flick the video to 'High Definition' mode and you should be able to see this). That's the difference between how we do resin infusion we our equipment and resin and how other people do it - in a sense, that's the point of this video to show that it can, reliable, be done if you follow all the steps. Take a look at the TDS for our IN2 infusion resin (link on our website) for all the specifications, including viscosity. It's an amazing resin!

[@ndaschakladar1]

Thank you for the excellent video. Do you have a video tutorial in making this or any mould?

[@easycompositestv]

Yes we have an excellent mould making tutorial which you can watch here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5iup3etZqppZqc

[@easycompositestv]

You can degas the resin if you wish, but letting it stand for a few minutes gets rid of most of the large bubbles. Most of the rest are drawn out by the vacuum pump during infusion. The Aimed for ratio is 60:40 fibre/resin. If you leave the vacuum pump on continuously then you can suck out too much resin ruining the surface finish.

[@easycompositestv]

Hi Don, I'll certainly bare this in mind. I'm not sure that making composite wheels is really a project for general enthusiasts, there's some very real precision required. Certainly assembling multi-component parts is something that we've started covering more with our recent tutorials (the bonnet/hood making guide for example) and we'll have more soon. Stay tuned!

[@easycompositestv]

@SquirrelFromGradLife : You're unlikely to find a resin-to-fibre ratio lower than 40% resin; pre-preg is generally around 40-42.5%, infusion will always yeild around the 40% mark. Much lower resin ratios would actually jeopardise the structual performance of the composite because there is actually an optimum amount of resin, not just 'less is better'. Regarding post-curing, you can post-cure our infusion resin to improve the mechanicals but it wouldn't change the process for the infusion itself.

[@RiMartinsRi]

Excelent video and tutorial. Is it possible to do vacuum resin infusion on a sandwish foam core part?

[@groundskeeper5292]

Wow. I thought it might be complicated. Looks like something I could do in the basement at home!

[@Rand0mManic]

Using a heat gun or hair dryer can make the resin runny to fill spaces and get rid of the air bubbles.

[@truebreed89]

I use this technique alot

[@ViralKiller]

didn't have a vacuum bag so I T-bagged it instead

[@aniksupri99]

Thanks for sharing, very helpful to me...

[@teuluPaul]

Fantastic video - Many thanks. Website URL noted - I'll be over to get some stuff in due course!

[@easycompositestv]

The mould, the RICs, the hose from the pump to the catch-pot, the catch-pot and pump (of course), that's about it. If you're really pushed, sometimes people re-use the vacuum bag but that's really a lot more trouble than it's worth. Your chemical release agent is semi-permenant so you probably won't need to apply that each time. The rest is disposable.

[@easycompositestv]

If you're making a flat sheet then a sheet of glass is perfect because they're hard to scratch, have a fantasticaly flat, glossy surface and are cheap and easy to get hold of. Prepare the sheet of glass using a chemical release agent (to stop the resin from sticking to it) and you should be fine.

[@carbonmods]

@apelabs1 : When using an epoxy gel and polyester to reinforce the mould (not a conventional system but it does work) I would recommend 'double gelling' with the epoxy (just a few hours between the two layers) then letting that FULLY cure before reinforcing with polyester resin and CSM. No need to a polyester gel. As for the pre-pregs we'll suggest a 75 degree curing pre-preg, vacuum only (no autoclave). A vac pump and a decent but simple 'hot box' oven is all that's needed.

[@easycompositestv]

Yes you can do that and it will not have any negative impact on the infusion.

[@easycompositestv]

Resin infusion has been successfully used on a large scale for boat hulls, aircraft parts etc so it is theoretically possible. Obviously you would need to approach your FAA representative for advice to ensure your work complies with the necessary standards.

[@jameskuria1664]

This tutorial is amazing. How can I import your products to Kenya

[@easycompositestv]

@RiMartinsRi : Yes, definately. We'll make a video to show how it's done but basically you need to perforate the foam core (approx 15mm centres, 3mm holes) all the way across its surface. The resin will then make its way along the top skin (guided by the infusion mesh) and then drop down through the holes to wet out the bottom skin. We make a very large table (with a 30mm core) in this way and it infuses perfectly. You can get core material that is ready-perforated for infusion.

[@easycompositestv]

@jnnojpuy Yes, we ship to the US. Because of shipping regulations, there is a surcharge to pay if your order includes 'dangerous goods' but our website will calculate this automatically and show you the shipping cost on the checkout page.

[@ryanmitch7993]

Awesome video and cant wait to make some parts after Christmas however I have 1 question, when you put the carbon weave into the mold you didnt use anything to contour it into place? Does the vacuum pull it all into place? Or would there be a process of applying the first layer to shape into the mold? Thanks

[@easycompositestv]

Fabric drapes into curves so for most cases, no need to use anything to hold the fabric in place. Also when under vacuum, the force holds the material in place.

[@thessolonki]

seeing you had no leaks did you actually let the mould cure without the vacum pump running ?

[@easycompositestv]

@gaucholon It's a 2/2 twill, 200g, 3k fibre we use here. 2/2 twill drapes nicely so it drops into the compound shape of this part easily, 200g 3k is nice and light so again it's easy to conform it to the mould.

[@Stephane1995]

What i'm planning to do is make a foamcore wing for an rc aircraft.... it's quite easy to shape the foam, and then vacuum bag it with composites, as this has been done before numerous times... the only thing i want to do different is use vacuum infusion instead of wet layup. But i think ill just use perforated release film and then polish away the tiny dots made by it.

[@rippedanny]

BEST TUTORIAL EVER COMPLIMENTS FROM ITALY :)

[@easycompositestv]

@DanFrederiksen : We use a company called Pentaxia in Derby (UK). They do machining for F1 teams and work to the highest standards possible. They machined an epoxy tooling block (we supplied the block) that was 30cm x 80cm which we'd arranged patterns for 5 induction funnel rings onto for less than £200. If you think that it would take maybe 3 days to hand-work those patterns and the finished result would be nowhere near as accurate then I'd say that's good value.

[@eliosman9333]

Thank you for this great tutorial!

[@easycompositestv]

You're welcome Eli, we're glad you've enjoyed it.

[@shizukesajdm]

Really great video! Thank you so much!

[@easycompositestv]

Glad you liked it, thanks a lot.

[@andrew19682008]

Brilliant. Would love to see a car wing mould and make for an Audi a5? Interested in making them for myself. What would i be looking at kit and cost wise?

[@learnbytrying]

For structural parts like rear wings with a greater nominal wall thickness, you have to go beyond what's shown in this video. Search for composite sandwich structures with aluminum honeycomb cores and videos about how to do threaded inserts.

[@SquirrelFromGradLife]

@easycompositestv Good to know and its quite a nice thing for a single person operation to be able to make carbon fiber parts like that. But does the optimum resin amount and post curing not depend a lot on what kind of cloth and resin used?

[@nivinebou2789]

Very interessting video ! Though, i did not understand why during the sealing of the vacuum tape, you put extra tape ?

[@easycompositestv]

The extra pieces are pleats to allow extra bagging film to be used to ensure enough film is there to avoid bridging.

[@nivinebou2789]

Thanks a lot ! @@easycompositestv

[@apelabs1]

I'm going to make a mould using an epoxy gelcoat but with polyester resin and glass reinforcement, after the epoxy gelcoat has fully cured do i need to add a polyester gelcoat or go straight to resin and glass? RE: Prepreg, is this low temp curing? hot box? oven?

[@Maticus07]

Is it possible to make a whole body of a car this way given you have all the proper molds? By that I mean doors, roof, and the rest of the body.

[@bg108060]

Can you make a video that shows how to make a mold for the vacuum infusion process

[@240SSONLY]

great job chief... thanks for sharing... very pro job... good tools, good materials, good mold...

[@dytch2220]

Would this method be suitable for structural carbon fiber automotive parts or is another method necessary? I've heard that automobile manufacturers us a process that involves a large autoclave. What's the purpose/benefit of this method and is it necessary?

[@YOLO-tq3el]

this was some good stuff

[@easycompositestv]

You can still use a moulding process and resin infusion if needs be. It would be very fiddly to do on small tubes. Large diameter tubes could be done around either a mandrel or a split moulding.

[@JustinHallPlus]

how do you plan to shape your part without a mold? I guess you could do a few simple shapes like wrapping around an object, but you would have a hard time using a vaccuum technique with that, and it probably wouldn't turn out very good.

[@erlenjorgeconceicaodejesus1641]

hi my name is Erlen de jesus ,im brasilian idont speak english very well but even i need to aask some questions to you.my work naval carpentry .then the great team at easy composites found the innovative application method fantastic this is revolutionaing repairs and naval and offshore maintenance knowing that i woldd like to know if you are giving a course on this application method

[@elsiequirog2233]

Hi! Thank you so much this video, it helps a lot how make it easy. But can you give me an idea of how much is the ideal weight of sound box of cello?

[@easycompositestv]

@dytch2220 : Yes, you could certianly use resin infusion to make structual parts. Furthermore, parts made using resin infusion could be made to have structual properties equal to those of parts made from pre-preg carbon. The actual part made in this video weighs in at 60% fiber, 40% resin. Many of the pre-pregs we use are 60/40 so the fiber content (giving strength to the composite) is the same. There's no room to explain all the pros and cons of the processes but get in touch for further info.

[@DanFrederiksen]

this seems very elaborate compared to just direct wet lay up. if this is 60:40, what can you get with careful wet lay up?

[@pk3.14]

Isn't the resin likely to discolor and yellow when exposed to sunlight? How do you prevent this?

[@easycompositestv]

The IN2 is a very modern resin and naturally has very good UV properties. In fact, we’ve been making parts using this resin for about 8 years now and we’ve yet to see one that’s noticeably discoloured. That said, it’s right to think about UV protection for epoxy. In video 2 you can see that we use a UV protective gelcoat into the mould first and so the epoxy is underneath that gelcoat. Alternatively, you can lacquer/clear coat the part using a UV protective 2k automotive clear coat.

[@pk3.14]

@@easycompositestv Good answer! My car's clear coat has never yellow and in the sun 24/7. I'll use this if permanently outdoors. Also watch the part 2 I missed somehow. Thx!!!

[@Maticus07]

@easycompositestv Thanks for the response! But I have another question, where could I get molds? Would they most likely have to be custom made or is there a place I could go to and purchase them? Or is there a place that would have both molds already made but, if needed, can be custom made as well?

[@dawgtv]

I really liked this video.