How to do the oil change For Mazda RX7 FD3s 马自达转子RX7更换机油

My FD is due for another oil change now, I didn’t film the first one but let see how I did this on my rx7, hope you guys like the video.
Safety reminder: Always use Jack stands if you are working on the car, unless you have 8 Jacks like me😂, I am going to get jack stands soon.
Enjoy it.
Music used: Adrenalize
Artist: Root Basket

[@jonathanwagner1697]

Thanks for the tips, just got myself a 92 RHD FD Type X in California that I need to change the oil on, helps to know exact levels and sizes.

[@danehamilton1899]

Nice car mate, from a fellow black fd owner here in the BOP NZ, Oil is cheap change it often I say.

[@zhengsumihiro3939]

Just trying to change oil for my fd by my own, thanks for the video. btw do you speak Chinese?

[@Jimmy_Wei]

Yes I’m Chinese

[@SLOBeachboy]

Is there any particular reason that you are using 6 jacks when you only need one. Hopefully its not because you think this is somehow a safe alternative to using jack stands, because it’s not. The car can be knocked off of six jacks of this type just as easily as two. Jack stands are cheap so there is no reason not to use them. And now that I think about it, you can also get a low profile aluminum floor jack like mine pretty cheap as well. And this plus two jack stands would make the job quick and easy. Of course in those instances where I can reach the drain plug without having to put my head under the car then I have no need for jack stands as I would not be hurt even if the jack should fail. By the way, you should also get a regular oil drain pan because by raising the front end up that high simply so that you can drain it directly into the old oil container you may possibly be leaving some of the old oil in the engine that would normally be drained. Besides it’s pretty easy to transfer the old oil from the drain pan to the container. And lastly you only need to dip your finger in the oil once or maybe twice and slide it around the gasket to get the required “thin layer” of oil. No need to actually pour oil all over the place because it does nothing but make a mess. Anyway I wish you the best of luck but as someone who has been working on cars for over 40 years and on my FD for 20 I would have to say that this is not exactly the best car for a novice mechanic to be working on.

[@Jimmy_Wei]

Thank you for your advice, of course I have already got 2 Jack stands after this and it’s always a learning progress. a little bit old oil doesn’t bother me too much. It still have some old oil in the oil coolers. But yeah. your advice is gold.

[@SLOBeachboy]

@@Jimmy_Wei No problem! And actually that’s a good point about the oil coolers, particularly if you have two. Anyway, just wait until you have to replace all the vacuum hoses. You’ll find yourself screaming curse words that you did not even know were in your vocabulary - particularly when trying to get the old brittle hoses off without breaking the plastic nipples on the many vacuum solenoids. Although, now that I think about it, you actually seem to have a later year JDM model in which they supposedly simplified that vacuum line mess.

[@EnzedDev]

WHere did you get your washer from bro? which size etc is it

[@Jimmy_Wei]

From Mazda when I get the oil filter. Should be 14mm.

[@jerrylee9625]

Looks like you have an oil leakage around the oil pan. Worst case scenario would be the turbos themselves. I'd definitely recommend getting the area thoroughly cleaned and try to find out where the leak is coming from. There's a lot of debate on what kind of oil to use (mineral vs synthetic) and everyone has valid points, so just stick to what you're using now. Personally I use lighter 10w-30 mineral as I mostly drive mine at night time (cooler temperature).

[@Jimmy_Wei]

Yes, I checked it the leakage is around the oil pan gasket. During the last 5000kms of driving, not much oil loss. Usually about 3-4 drops a day, and I drained out about 4L oil, I’ll get it checked before the next oil change and maybe replace the oil pan gasket first.

[@SLOBeachboy]

Jerry Lee - Actually there were no credible debates about this at all while this car was still in production and in fact, using synthetic oil could void the warranty. This is because according to Mazda engineers synthetic oil does not burn as cleanly as mineral oil and therefore leaves more deposits behind in the combustion chamber. Synthetic was used in many rotary engine racecars of course but in such cases they usually used a separate oil reservoir filled with two-cycle oil to be injected into the engine. And I suppose you could also just use premix and disconnect the oil injection pump. Of course there are now some synthetic oil manufacturers who claim that their oil burns cleanly enough to be safe in rotary engines and if you believe them I guess its worth a try. And since none of these cars are under warranty anymore I guess there is no problem on that front. Personally, while I use synthetic in all my other cars, I still use mineral oil in the RX7 and I put so little mileage on it that oil changes are still fairly infrequent anyway.