How to Double your Storage Space with this Cheap Garage Lift

How a simple $100 electric lift doubled my storage space in my garage allowing me to lift items to my attic area. 2 hour install that will save precious space & stay organized.
Hoist: amzn.to/3uXQmpN
Trolley: amzn.to/3RFlEKR
Clamp Bracket: amzn.to/46SudX7
Gusset Brackets: amzn.to/3REYMev
Lifting Net: amzn.to/46WetT9
Unistrut: amzn.to/48f4Bor
I make no claims as to how this can work in your house. Always consult with a structural engineer before using any lift system at home. Never even use any lift for people, pets or stand on or under it during use.
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Amazon store: amzn.to/46McQYY
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As a member of the Amazon affiliate program I earn commissions on sales using my links.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal.

[@SilverCymbal]

Hoist: amzn.to/3uXQmpN - Trolley: amzn.to/3RFlEKR - Clamp Bracket: amzn.to/46SudX7 - Gusset Brackets: amzn.to/3REYMev -Lifting Net: amzn.to/46WetT9 Unistrut: amzn.to/48f4Bor

[@acecabezon]

Hangar brackets and connectors are "unavailable".

[@outlawofga]

​@@acecabezon.. Get the welder and torch/ plasma cutter and get started.... Being a drag racer for 44 years, machine shop Owner. I built many of the tools/items I needed. You just might enjoy it, good luck my friend. 👍

[@michaelsachse6672]

As a few others have pointed out, the collar ties you attached to are not designed to take a load in the direction you are applying it. This is a recipe for either buckling of the collar ties or joint failure at the rafter connections.

[@reubenj.cogburn8546]

I built an elevator for my house with one of these 15 years ago. It was nothing more than a hundred-dollar Harbor Freight special It worked flawlessly the whole time and was working when I sold the house.

[@JGLuxe]

Smart.

[@ChristinaPalik]

Do you have instructions on how you built it?!??

[@reubenj.cogburn8546]

@user-hv6th4kp3t I am sorry, I do not. I did it totally off the cuff and my tendency is to overbilled things so that I ever have to repair them. My guides were c-channel steel and roller wheels that traveled vertically. And a frame with 6 x 6's, with a pulley system that looped the floorboards,, and doubled my capacities. I literally had a 3 by 3 elevator, but lifted more than one ton. I know because I tried it. Being that things have changed so much over 15 or more years, I cannot assure you that what you buy today is what I bought back to them. I'm simply sharing an anecdote from a capable man.

[@michaelredpath8729]

Is there any chance you could tell me what you used for the rails on the sides and and the weight that it can lift

[@geod3589]

Just remember to buy a hoist and not a winch. A hoist is designed to lift, a winch is for pulling.

[@jake6483]

My first thought was a winch from harbor freight, Until I had the realization of what you commented. I didn't really know if it would work or if there was an actual difference.

[@bmk789]

What's the difference?

[@everettstormy]

​Typically a hoist has a brake built in so it doesnt drop the load on you. But if you havnt noticed, winches dont just un wind when you let off the trigger. Its really not and issue judt not osha approved. Que the "no actuallys" but also its a 12 winch vs usually a 120v hoist. So you can install it in a house.​@@jake6483

[@why6212]

How does it know what direction its pulling 🤣 what if you set up a pulley?

[@WontSeeReplies]

@@bmk789a lift lowers and stops weight on demand. A winch might free spools when it isn’t pulling.

[@jmackinjersey1]

As someone that has a license to and has operated many overhead/bridge cranes, I'd suggest a few things to give you a better overall experience. 1. Spread some grease inside the Uni-Strut where the bearings are rolling on it. Your bearings are rolling freely now, but after a few months of use, those bearings will start to dig into the steel. Over time there will be grooves, humps/valleys etc., and as you roll over them, your trolly will stop abruptly and your load will swing. Heavy grease will lessen the amount of damage to the steel. 2. I would move the Uni-Strut at least 8 inches, if not a full foot more toward the outside wall/garage door. As you have seen already, when you lift a load that is not square, the longer piece of the load is going to catch on the edge of the ceiling or railing. 3. Always have some sort of tag line on the load, This will allow you to have more control of the load as it is lifted/lowered and should you need to rotate it, you will be able to use the tag line to do so. Use the tag line on the load as well as the tag line on the trolly as you move it laterally. This will allow more control and stop any swinging or sudden stops. 4. I realize that your winch is capable of lifting 1k lbs., but have you tested the tensile strength of the Uni-Strut to make sure that it will not open up or flex while it is under a heavy load? If it were to sag or flex, then it is quite possible that it will open and allow the bearings to fall. I agree that you would be better adding more 2 x 6's, almost doubling them, to prevent the sag/flex. 5. If it is possible, get another piece of Uni-Strut and attach it to the end of the one you have now. You should be able to move the trolly laterally so that your load will be at least 3 feet away from the edge. 6. Speaking of the edge, you need to have either a net or a sturdy gate that you can close/secure once you have lifted the load, BEFORE you try to disconnect the load from the hook. This will prevent anyone/thing from falling, should the load become unsteady/unsecure once it is lowered onto the upper floor space and unhooked.

[@blondeguy08]

Also not to mention this is the fastest way to get your home owners insurance canceled.

[@monohydrate2]

@@blondeguy08 This setup looks like a death trap. I have never seen an attic with a giant hole in the middle like that. I can picture someone reaching for the load and then falling head first into the concrete floor.

[@mikexkennedy]

6. You can see 2 metal brackets on the posts and the wooden beams he uses to make a rail behind him in some shots. I'm surprised he didn't mention that he does close the gap up when not in use.

[@rrome6178]

You are one of the most valuable sources of information on KZbin! As always, thank you for an honest and thorough review of products.

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you, that is very nice if you to say

[@InnerCircleUS]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I purchased the same trolley system you have a week ago and I've been searching for a method of installing the unistrut brackets for my hoist, perpendicular to the ceiling joists (as you've done), because I didn't like the idea of simply screwing them into the 2x4's. The Gusetted L Brackets are a perfect solution. I think I might also add another 10' piece of Unistrut above the trolley for added support. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this detailed video. I can now proceed with my project with much more peace of mind because of your quality and detailed video.

[@warrenrdup6322]

Viewers should be careful they understand their structure and its design before cutting joists or hanging anything from rafters. Our garage was spec’ed with attic trusses. After looking at KZbin hoists/elevators I consulted a structural engineer-she required extensive mods to the structure in order to cut any bottom chords (equivalent to joists). I’m now going a different route with vertical steel I-beam supports from floor to top chord, sort of like the Galaxy lifts.

[@warrenrdup6322]

Also consider weight allowance per square foot of storage in the attic once everything is up there.

[@yougetagoldstar]

I recommend enlisting the services of a man to do that type of work. Historically men have worked to provide for their families; and to this day men work to provide for their families. Women, however, by and large, work to "make it in the world" or to be able to be "independent". For many reasons this prevents men from providing for their families. Women are not supposed to be in the workforce. They were not made for it and it doesn't come natural to them. The number of women you see in the workforce (especially masculine occupations) is not the result of women feeling a natural desire to do it, it's the result of someone telling them, "Go and enter the workforce! That is what we believe women should do now." On the contrary, historically women naturally want to become housewives and mothers. If you read the words of the famous women's liberationists/feminists during the 60s, when all this craziness started, you will hear them express confusion over how many women preferred to be housewives and mothers, and even went to school to find husbands so they can eventually leave and become housewives and mothers. More important, God commands women to be housewives, mothers and helpers to their husbands because that's natural, it's what he created them to do. All this works with reality. When you deviate from that program, bad things happen. One of the bad things that is happening is reported by the Centers for Disease Control, which show that women suffer more stress related illnesses than men. I could go on. So, aim to support men as they work to provide for their families, it will do better for society in the long run. Resist the urge to support the self centered "women's empowerment" nonsense.

[@JoaquinGTP]

@@yougetagoldstarYou should probably seek out some therapy. That was some unhinged stuff you just spouted. Wow man.

[@keithowen3599]

​@@yougetagoldstarI feel sorry for you, if that is truly your world view

[@freda1078]

@@yougetagoldstar What rock have you been living under for the past 20 years. Women can and do the work of men, and some of them better than a man.

[@ghostridergale]

Another thing you could do to strengthen your trusses. I use to work for a company that built trusses for homes and other buildings. Many trusses have a web between the roof part of the truss and the bottom made out of 2x4’s angled usually close to a 45 angle. Find the center of the 2x4 on each end and cut a 45 from the center on both sides. You can cut one end, then put in place on the top roof part and then mark the bottom using the lower part of the truss. What you want to end up with resembles a W OR at least a V between your truss. Then use some 1/2 plywood or thicker if you prefer? The truss company uses metal square cleats that’s pressed on both sides of the truss on every joint where the web touches the top and bottom of the truss and then ran thru a press to sink the metal cleats into the wood. Obviously you’re not going to have that option! But a good piece of plywood on both sides of your truss where they meet the top and bottom of your existing truss will do the job fine if you glue it to the truss on both sides and just a nail here and there to hold it in place. Once the glue dries it’s stronger then the 2x4’s themselves and you won’t have to worry about those trusses plotting on you! I do something similar on the ends of the trusses where you put those grade 8 bolts. Believe it or not the glued plywood to the trusses are a lot stronger than those bolts in the trusses and no chance of the trusses splitting on you! Think of it as a laminated beam that’s made for longer distances without a support beam underneath to keep the beam from bowing or breaking! The trusses themselves aren’t glued at the joints unfortunately, they be a lot stronger if they were! But adding the plywood glued to the trusses will make a huge difference in strength! With lifting huge amounts of weight, I rather go over kill then be sorry when something goes wrong and costs you a fortune to replace it! Sometimes it may hold up fine in the beginning, but after numerous uses sometimes the wood will get fatigue over time and break when you least expect it to happen!

[@rosegold7975]

I tried reading this and it gave me a headache. Nobody can understand what you are thinking, so do a better job typing it out.

[@davidbennett1471]

Makes sense to me

[@ghostridergale]

@@rosegold7975 Now I know why they’re sending out pictures on items you buy rather than writing out instructions normal people have no problem reading! Unfortunately most people can’t make sense of the picture instructions either! But if I could figure out a way to put pictures on here, I would draw a picture just for you!

[@danilo352]

I admit I had a bit of a hard time following as well. Having said that, @rosegold7975 could’ve had more tact on commenting instead of coming across as entitled. The OP gave of his time to share knowledge. We should be thankful for that first and then ask for clarification.

[@ghostridergale]

To put it simpler terms, you sandwich two pieces of plywood between the truss where there’s a joint ( 2- 2x4’s coming together) with glue and a few nails or screws I personally rather use! On those rafter ends where the truss over lapse, you have to glue a piece of 2/4 to the underneath the bottom 2x4 of the truss so you have a even surface to work with before adding the plywood. Your new 2x4’s cut for the webbing would sit inside on the 1 1/2” thickness making them flush with the existing truss. So just glue and sandwich the 2 pieces of plywood over where all 2x4 meet together. Probably a couple pieces of plywood 24”x 24” on the webs would work fine

[@davidwilliams1060]

Fantastic, thanks. I’ve been trying to design something like this for years and you’ve answered some longstanding questions. Besides lifting into the attic I’ll be lifting snow tires into a rack.

[@inspiringbuilds]

The hoist trolley is a game changer. I would also add more unistrut for a longer track to save time and labor especially with heavier items. 👍

[@watsonrk1]

Exactly what i plan to do with my shop! I left a 4' section of the ridge beam sticking out the front of my shop and placed a 3x5' door diectly under it. Opens to allow the trolly system to slide into the shop. Intention was to pick-up a pallet, so really a little over 2' would have worked. I can pick the load up even with the attic and slide items off the pallet, right onto the the upper floor. Or as you've shown, slide the cargo net load directly into the attic. Excellent video!

[@johngray8250]

Might want to consider adding stop blocks to each end of the Unistrut to prevent the trolley from running out too far. They're commercially available or you could just fabricate something. Video was really well done and informative.

[@davereichert]

Something we did when we got items delivered to a mezzanine gate at a previous employer was to have the receiving portion gated from where you're standing to ensure that it prevents you from accidentally leaning over the mezzanine floor during the process of getting it onto the target floor. In that situation you could be tempted to reach or lean too far, leading to a bad fall. I don't really know how best to describe it, but there are some things you can do there to maximize safety. Also - Instead of drilling into the rafter tie, perhaps there's a bracket that could slide overtop of it you could mount your Unistrut to which would probably distribute the load better.

[@lelenbates3367]

If you have trusses do not mount a hoist to them because trusses push the weight forces of the roof to the outside framing so the bottom chord is being stretched outwards horizontally and that is how they are able to use a mending plate in the middle. If you put any substantial weight in the center of a truss you will snap the truss or loosen the mending plates. If you want to lift a weight install a LVL beam or something similar that spans the distance

[@markkempton4579]

Great topic! Thank you. The trolley system is the big value add here! I'm glad you admitted that you're just going to fill the space with more junk. I hear acceptance is one of the early steps. :-)

[@simongchadwick]

It's not junk, it's some of Chris' STUFF (kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6fKf2ideNp_l8U)

[@TexasRanchu]

Love these one off videos u would think people would not watch, but in reality they are educational and entertaining

[@jimmbrooks]

The best channel on the internet!!

[@SilverCymbal]

Very kind of you to say

[@jimmbrooks]

​@@SilverCymbal it's true Chris, your like a fellow dad buddy that I look to for lawn care and new tools. Keep up the work and don't change. As a fellow new Englander that knows what your dealing with.

[@jhamby8773]

It’s so funny you just did this - I’m an avid watcher and I’ve been researching this for MONTHS.

[@scottcohen8767]

A longer track would allow you to move the bulkier items and save time versus manual movement. Also, Unistrut can be curved with different radius which might be helpful. At one of the places I have worked they had a monorail lift with a track switch. It made it super easy and efficient to move around heavy items. Your price and ingenuity are awesome!

[@Laguna2013]

Ive got what must be a commercial grade hoist in my boathouse from the 50's. Its complicated because one motor spools two Cales running fore and aft. I like the sliding channel set up with yours.

[@stuartkorte1642]

After this video a couple weeks ago, I purchased the cargo net. I’m in the middle of moving my shop and the net is a game changer for getting stuff from my loft.

[@SilverCymbal]

That's great to hear. I totally agree. It has changed my entire space and how I look at storage. I need to do an updat video, as I have doubled up some beams and other small upgrades,

[@krusherkid]

Just wanted to chime in on the pool chems. Keep any sanitizers outside in a deck box or similar. Otherwise they will cause things in that area to rust over time, no matter how well you think you've sealed the container.

[@TheDroppedAnchor]

Rigging in a shipyard requires a small length of rope tied to object being lifted. This allows a helper to control to load from swinging wildly

[@hottroddchevelle]

I think it will be plenty strong for the weight of items you are lifting. When I was 14 I lifted a chevy 396 with a chain hoist supported by a single 10 ft 2x6. Not a smart move, I know, but I was amazed how much weight a 2x6 on edge can support.

[@chickenfromspace769]

Amazing video once again ! The only thing I would do different is blocking off the ends of the rail so the hoist can’t accidently fall off 👍🏼

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you very much

[@mathew00]

That attic is epic!

[@Fish6699]

Very Nice 👍 this is the System I initially thought of for my Attic above my Garage, but unfortunately I have Trusses and will have to add more supports when I get the Money and Time for it. Please don’t take this the wrong way, but your Videos or more Your Experience level has greatly Improved over the Years or you just saved the Slightly more involved tasks for later. I’m a Tradesman all my life, Son of a Tradesman and got Tools for Birthdays and Christmas from 9 years old and went to work with Him on Weekend’s and Holidays from 11 Years old. I’m guessing you have one of the best Houses in your Area by now.

[@beerbottleboyyy]

I was literally looking for something exactly like this for my attic, thank you so much for the great idea!

[@oldManLoo]

Very cool, exactly what I was think about doing. Thank you !

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you, glad it was helpful. I am loving this so far.

[@gmans7859]

Really Love finding Inspirational Videos like this. Thank You for showing us!

[@ZachAttack8258]

I enjoyed the video 👍 Just an idea but the gap in the railing is a bit of a safety hazard when you aren’t using the lift. A rope or temporary railing might just save you (or someone else) one day.

[@stompylee]

Nicely done. I was waiting for that last bold to prevent the rollers from coming out. Till then I kept cringing. 😂😂

[@ronh9384]

Excellent video Chris. I wish I had a big attic space over my garage so I could do this!

[@SilverCymbal]

I appreciate that, having lived in apartments and condos for 20 years I am thankful for having this space every day. I remember changing my oil in the shopping mall lot for years, its nice to have my own space

[@michaelosmon]

I saw one of these setups where the unistrut with the hoist had a few trolleys on it and rode on another layer of unistruts so you could move the hoist around any direction

[@sus8e462]

Hope you added stops at the ends of the channels else the hoist could slide out! (At least didn't see/hear that before you started testing it). Great idea on upgrading all the hardware--better to have a huge safety factor with the structure over the hoist rating!

[@lorenrickey5481]

I have never seen those trolley rollers with the flanges. I’ll have to look into them.

[@dkat1108]

Great job with adding bolts to rafters you could also beef up all the rafters with cross supports and sister in another rafters lots of ways to so this....

[@steven_marque_official_channel]

As ever, I have nothing helpful to add to the narrative, but everything to add to the accolades for yet another great one! You make me want to buy a new house, just to apply all of the fantastic ideas on your channel from the start. And truly, if there had been a KZbin and a Silver Cymbal in 1992 when I moved into my house, I would have! 😊 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Friend.

[@Scott4271]

WOW, what a magnificent attic!

[@TheKingOfInappropriateComments]

I've been using those cheap hoists for years. The motors are good but the 1/8" cable is junk and hard to find replacement for without the clear jacket which also deteriorates.

[@Russianmafia10]

I actually just did something like this in my garage and it's amazing

[@rudyardgomeas6042]

I suggest a box/platform for your items, this way they are always flat and stable. Great job.

[@m3rdpwr]

I have a ranch without a floor. I bought the harbor freight electric winch but I have not put it up yet because there's cross bracing that keeps me from running a 5 to 10 ft piece of strut. I don't think I can remove the cross bracing without compromising some integrity. I have to come up with an alternate idea as it is a low roof line being a ranch. It won't be lifting anything more than let's say 20 to 50 lb. And I use the wording cross braces loosely. It's just a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 towards the peak running across every third or fourth roof rafter.

[@dalesworld1308]

If you were concerned about joist/truss strength you could always just add some posts from the floor up to the joist right where your railing is. That wouldn't eat up any floor space and would be fast and cheap.

[@AngusNB]

0:35 "over 1000 pounds" is only when you double the line using the pully block. These are really 660lb. hoists. They are great though and all most of us need. I built a small garage 10 years ago. It's 20'x26', with a small attic space, 8' wide x 5' high, in the roof trusses. I designed the trusses with a heavier bottom cord and no cord up the middle. I left the space open, in the ceiling, between two of the trusses, about 6' from the back, so I could use an electric hoist. I also put gullwing doors in so I can close it off as the attic is not insulated but the ceiling is. I also have pulldown stairs 8' from the front. The opening is about 20"W x 90"L so I am limited but all I really use the hoist for is the summer/winter wheels and tires for my truck. Even this small attic has given me a lot of extra storage space and the hoist makes it easy to use.

[@redsquirrelftw]

This is really cool, when I build my saw mill I might put in a setup like that so I can lift logs on the mill.

[@rosario5972]

I'd love to add this onto my garage one day. My suggestion would be to build a platform that you can hook into.

[@keything8487]

BAD ASS !!!!.......wish my garage "attic" was that big !!!

[@WontSeeReplies]

I would’ve carried everything up and down those stairs without the thought of a lift ever entering my simple mind.

[@littlehills739]

may be look into trap doors with center hole for the cable - lift through they close

[@yassm]

nice work man

[@arnokilianski7889]

You can also use barn door track and dollies.

[@norcalnewsnetwork]

I would install a mezzanine gate. This would allow you the ability to not have to go over the top rail with all of that weight regardless of what it is. Just my opinion. That is a great tool to have. Be safe!

[@ahmedmakada2724]

lovely from South Africa

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you!

[@WrongTimeWatch]

My workshop attic is not big enough for a system like this. Do you plan to insulate your ceiling? Id like to see your plan for that if so.

[@7_of_9]

That's not an attic, that's a full blown apartment

[@Dan-qt7kq]

Great idea, but don’t put a lot of faith in the unistrut. I’d be afraid of the SWL(safe working load) of the strut. But for small stuff, yep you nailed it.

[@Laughinghawg]

I LIKE IT!. Don't have a tall ceiling garage .......... but if I did, I'd be on this like white on rice!

[@davidfloyd6084]

Use the set up you have but instead of bolting through the side of a rafter. lay another piece of unistrut on top and sandwich the beams between top and bottom using all thread it would allow you to more evenly distribute your weight. also those rafters were meant to support the house for piece of mind i would add bracing from rafters to walls below going all the way to the floor

[@vivian9803]

Stairs and a hoist - lucky man!

[@TheBoomtown4]

One word of caution, as I have one of these setups is that I noticed the motor is only attached to its red frame by two bolts. When I received the first hoist, one of the bolts had sheared off. That’s the weak point in this. I welded a little cage to surround the hoist and keep it from flying out of the red shroud. Also I mounted mine upside down under the sub floor of my loft, then mounted a pulley to the ceiling that the cable runs through. Less weight to fall down on someone’s head potentially.

[@fernandopenah]

Or strapping the unistrut using square u-bolts that straddle the joists. Less parts and don’t even need to drill the joists.

[@homecraftsolutions3506]

good job with the trolley. A bit over-engineered for strength unless you are planning on lifting engines or something really heavy. better safe than sorry though.

[@PammyRock]

Really cool video!!!

[@Docapri]

You should screw another 2x4 or 2x6 (on the flat) to the top of the collar ties to strengthen them.

[@ztechrepairs]

This is awesome!!!

[@Mike61259]

I'll never understand people who find cheap things more important than quality & safety. Do it right or don't do it.

[@gwp1ohio]

Just what every Designer/Engineer loves to see... a hoist put in place after the structure is built....oh and by the way, those are collar ties....lol

[@justingizinski1348]

Came here to say the same thing, definitely a little cringe

[@MrHarryhere69]

Like the rolling system.

[@cc-to]

I get the urge to pause the lift to judge whether it seems secure, but I would expect that starting the motor under load is stressful on it and on the support structures, so I'd so that sparingly.

[@SolarTechFL]

I need to add the roller to mine nice idea

[@AaronHGottscH]

Personally I would add lumber below the collar ties where they attach to the roof rafters. Right now you went to the trouble of adding the brackets for strength but how much does it help if the lumber it's attached to is just nailed or screwed into place? I would place lumber below it on either side and maybe even install blocking between the collar ties to reduce any deflection of dimensional Lumber.

[@thomaspaquette9991]

I see you hiding that Allett Stirling. Nice mower, can’t wait to see a video on it.

[@GOAP68]

$300 parts list in description, not $100. Still a good value at $300+

[@ronaldtaylor1672]

Great video. I am looking at doing this as well. Would you happen to have any pictures of how you braced the floor joists for the open area of the top floor. I have a full walk up loft and I would like to put an opening like yours. I am just not sure how to keep the structural soundness. I am just trying to get ideas on how to do this. Thanks for any pictures/ideas you may have.

[@SouthernKillafornia]

Great idea and very well thought out!

[@jankas64]

Im going to use my same but 240 v to make a lift from basement to attic in my house in sweden. Got same brand and model. I will though use stealbeam tshaped. Total hight 27 foot. Great winch😊i paid mine myself😅

[@amoledor]

Keep in mind that whatever rated hoist you get is half that rating for the single line setup. The rating is for use in a double line setup. His safe rating is essentially 665 lbs., not 1320.

[@EricReitzel]

Looking to add something like this for under my Ladder rack in my truck to get generators,table saws etc on and off.

[@bwedesign]

Collar ties, not studs. And I'm glad to see you bolted them to the rafters, instead of relying on the nails.

[@SilverCymbal]

Yes, correct I definitely mispoke with that.

[@Scotty2hotty-xc6gi]

You need to double up on those Joyce going across the ceiling and I would not drill through them. I would hook up over the top of them drilling a hole just makes them weaker check for knots in the other piece of wood you add up there also!!!!!

[@Roll2Videos]

Tag line 😊

[@CKexploresNYC]

Was waiting for you to ride on that 😔

[@kahvac]

Excellent video ! Thank You !

[@substation996]

straps like seat belts they lock with sudden pressure

[@JB50713]

Wow that's handy.

[@cedaroakfarm8596]

Appreciate your ideas and planning for the hoist. I am going to install the same unit, in fact pretty much the exact same system in my barn here on the farm but I'm adding more cross rafters as mine are 4 foot spaced. How long is the electric cord with the AC plug? I have an outlet in the rafters but may need a short extension cord. Good video, thanks.

[@richardtalbot9215]

In case you're still reading comments, I noticed the opening between your garage and attic is rather large and permanently open. Do you get any undesirable up/down drafts into the garage in the different seasons?

[@claudenormandeau9211]

My recommendation is you should be using ASTM A 325 Bolts for structural fastening. Not Grade 8. Grade 8 have no shear strength rating for this purpose as you have installed them.

[@OU81TWO]

False. SAE J429 bolts have 150,000psi tensile strength. ASTM A325 have 120,000psi tensile strength. Shear capacity is a percentage of tensile strength and is about 60%. The numbers say SAE Gr 8 has a higher shear capacity. There are reasons why GR 8 hardware is not used in structural applications but it's not due to lack of shear strength.

[@claudenormandeau9211]

@@OU81TWO google it you will learn something

[@Samlol23_drrich]

I usually stand right under mine and look up to make sure its working properly. But seriously we'll done. I have a situation that can accommodate something like this but not in the center of the room and I would need to cut ceiling sheetrock and make it hidden and it would be a lot of work. Thanks for the video. Great

[@SilverCymbal]

I know you are kidding but after watching other videos where people are putting their kids in them, they are nuts thats why I mentioned it. I feel safer riding my motorcycle with no helmet (NH) before I would stick my kid in one of these or under it.

[@Samlol23_drrich]

​@@SilverCymbalyou were too fast on the response!

[@timmannchicken]

I have been looking for something like this, to transport me throughout my attic! 40 degree pitch 14ft ceiling. Specifically the uni-strut and trolley system.

[@thomaspierce9458]

Thanks for posting this video! I noticed the Mitsubishi Box. Any suggestions or links, please. Thank you.

[@BUZZDAGEN]

Double up all the wood that's taking load and think about the load you're putting on the floor/previous ceiling.

[@williamrgrant]

Nice build!

[@jmpersic]

Cool, but I see one structural issue. The unistrut length is such that a single L bracket and rafter above will carry nearly the entire load weight at certain points in the carriage travel (primarily at either end). Is this desirable?

[@freda1078]

Nice job, great ideal.

[@deadmanswife3625]

Congratulations

[@shrimpinpat]

Most attics around me are joisted in a way that its just a cobweb of 2x4 but the "floor" cant actually bear weight other than the drywall below . IT SUCKS

[@rock_machine01]

Keep in mind I believe that slotted strut you’re using is only rated at 300 pounds

[@raulcamarena65]

is there a workshop tour video?