How To Drain & Fill Coolant + Thermostat - Chrysler 4.7L (Dakota, Durango, Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500)

[@peternemec1269]

From one car guy to another, I appreciate your tips. 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Glad to be of service. Pay it forward.

[@lozano813able]

Wow, this video was really well done. Very informative and quite knowledgeable! Good stuff bud

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it,

[@JustAboutAnything66]

Thank you so, so much!!! Wish I'd found this video sooner, I could not find the dang plug on my 2000 Dakota 5.9. I Googled every combination of terms I could think of for info on where the plug is located. Some said it was on the passenger side (which is where it's been on every vehicle I can remember working on) some said it's on the driver side. All said it is facing the engine. The aggravation induced fog in my brain finally cleared, and I decided to look at a replacement radiator online! Well, what do you know! There it was, driver side on the SIDE of the radiator! I crawled under and found it, turned it a quarter turn, and it stopped. From there, I had no idea I needed to pull the dang thing and turn some more. So it was back to Google. I typed "radiator will not drain after drain-cock is turned" Your video had a huge thumbnail three results down! Everything looks pretty much the same, except my thermostat is on top of the motor. Thanks again, learned some other stuff too.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out and you got it all sorted out. Good idea on looking at the replacement. I too got stuck on having to pull on the plug to open it up way back when I first did this job on this truck 15+ year ago. Luckily it was mentioned in the factory service manual. No idea why it was designed that way, but it works.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out and you got it all sorted out. Good idea on looking at the replacement. I too got stuck on having to pull on the plug to open it up way back when I first did this job on this truck 15+ year ago. Luckily it was mentioned in the factory service manual. No idea why it was designed that way, but it works.

[@JustAboutAnything66]

@@petrocksgarage *Face Palm* Forgot about downloading the service manual for AC clutch gap at the beginning of summer. 😆

[@petrocksgarage]

@@JustAboutAnything66, the factory service manual is one of the first things I buy/get/download whenever I get a new (to me) vehicle. Pays for itself in the first service. Not those cheap Chiltons or Haynes manuals. The real factory service manuals. Worth their weight in gold, IMO.

[@danielhirschberg5669]

Fantastic video! You sound like the main guy in polar opposites the hilarious adult cartoon, you have a great voice!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@kevinbrady4963]

Thanks for the video. It's also relevant for the 2006 Mitsubishi Raider. It's basically a Dodge Dakota with the 4.7.

[@petrocksgarage]

Oh cool. I didn't know that. I'll add it to the description. Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@d.mar.2624]

Thanks for uploading. This seems to be relevant for the 2012 Ram 1500 4.7L V8 as well. Some of the layout of the components you worked on are in similar spots. I'll be doing this for mine later.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. The 4.7L was used in a ton of different makes & models (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep etc), with mainly slight modifications to the locations of some components. Hopefully I hit the main points and my video helps you out. Good luck.

[@darrellharvey8118]

Excellent video, extremely informative and complete in my opinion. Thank you for your time

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@jaustin0001]

Well done video. Very helpful and informative. Thank you!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@TTT-du6oj]

Excellent,Thanks

[@petrocksgarage]

Glad to be of service

[@wdaig1004]

Good communications and visuals. Very helpful.👍🤓

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@willcruz3198]

Excellent video! I've got a little more room to work with in my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Yeah, you can practically swim in the Ram engine bay.

[@paulmiranda7612]

Nice job. Well shown and edited. Wish you could do spark plug and wires on a 1999 Chevy Silverado

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re Silverado: I don't have access to one. I don't know anyone with a Silverado, at the moment, that I'd be willing to work on. My videos are of my friends and my personal vehicles. Mostly my vehicles. But plugs & wires shouldn't be too difficult. Do each plug & wire one at a time so you don't mix them up. Try to route the wires the same way the old ones were. Make sure the new plugs have the correct gap (gap should be in the owners manual). Don't expect them to be properly gapped out of the box. They could have been banged around in shipping or messed with at the auto parts store. Better to check then be sorry, IMO. Screw the plug in hand tight and then give it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to tighten it down. Put a little dielectric grease in the plug end of the wire. Thats really about it. Nothing fancy. Hope that helps. Good luck.

[@paulmiranda7612]

@@petrocksgarage thanks for the time. I changed the thermostat today. burbed her after the flush so far so good. No leaks is a great sign for me. One plug and wire at a time is good advice thanks agsin

[@SteveRobReviews]

Well instructed buddy . Lots of great tips too. 👍

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Trying to get through a backlog of videos while on quarantine and can't go anywhere.

[@Rarebreed6]

Thank-you Sir... help me out alot good Video... much appreciated good day.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@paulmiranda7612]

There is probably a lot of people that wish they knew about this video.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks again. I appreciate it. Spread the word! 🙂

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

THERE PLENTY OF VIDEOS LIKE THIS..

[@adonvonpanzern]

furthermore, I would recommend waiting till the next day after your coolant service, pulling the bleeder screw and running the engine a bit at op-temp (letting it warm up with the screw pulled not pulling it while its hot) to let any air trapped in the engine out and adding coolant as needed. the 4.7 can be cranky when it comes to heat and the aluminum valve seats like to go and try to join the piston.

[@petrocksgarage]

While I do agree the level should be checked and topped off after some miles have been put on the truck, I don't think it's necessary to let the truck run with the bleeder off. Having the bleeder off while running won't help anything because the cooling system will be open. The system is designed to be closed so pressure can build up to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If you do the initial fill & bleed correctly (where the blender & radiator cap hole are the highest points in the system), there shouldn't be a lot of air in the system. Any air in the system should exit through the radiator cap and into the overflow reservoir. That is how most coolant systems are designed. But if you want to run with the bleeder off go right ahead. It's your ride and will not hurt anything unless you let it run too long and possibly overheat. Good luck.

[@adonvonpanzern]

@@petrocksgarage, thanks though! Was just doing my research before i do a timing/gasket/lifter job on my 2010 4.7 dak.

[@petrocksgarage]

@@adonvonpanzern, thats a big job. Good luck!!!

[@Jbe_theName420]

I could not remove the coolant bleeder screw when I had my radiator changed. It's striped. It was at a friend's brothers house. He put the radiator on fine, but when it came to this last step, well. I added coolant, took almost two jugs. My friends brother put the radiator cap back on and told me to start the truck see what happens. I thought ok, he may know what he's talking about but I saw a few KZbin videos showing something else. For one,he didn't even know about the bleeder screw or that that radiator needed to be bled, he just knew how to install the thing. I drove it anyway after checking it over and over nearly each time I drove it. I saw the coolant level go down, so I thought I might be doing it, I might actually be, wait, nah, screw that, I see videos like these and look black at my work and then I look like this 😮

[@Jbe_theName420]

I'm going to Home Depot tomorrow to buy a t60 torx 3/8 socket and see if I can get that screw off. Any suggestions? Your video shows you using an Allen but my truck has a torx. Was your bleeder screw easy to remove?

[@petrocksgarage]

​ @Jbe_theName420 , these motors are 'special' in that they have this bleeder screw because the thermostat is towards the bottom of the motor. Most cars have the thermostat towerds the top so they don't need the bleeder and can be bled by letting the motor run with something like the no-spill funnel I use in this video (or repeated hot-cold cycles from normal driving). As long as the motor hasn't overheated since you changed out the radiator you haven't done any damage to the motor. Make sure the coolant is topped off at the radiator cap and reservoir every couple days, and before a long drive. Run with the heater on to make sure air isn't trapped in there (good thing it's starting to get cold outside). It should bleed itself out after you get a good amount of milage on it. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge and pull over and shut off the engine the moment it starts to get too hot (i.e. outside the 'Normal' text on the gauge). As for the stripped screw: I'd start with penetrating lube and lots of it. Let it soak in there for a couple hours, reapplying periodically. Maybe also soak a rag or paper towels in penetrating lube and wrap the rag/towel around the bleeder to help keep it moist? Might help to get the motor up to operating temps before trying to turn the bleeder so the heat from the motor can help to break it loose. Avoid drilling it out or heating with a torch if the bleeder housing is still on the motor. You don't want shavings getting in the engine or the housings gasket or other plastic bits around it melting or burning. If you can take the housing off then have at it! Home Depot sells Map (yellow) and Propane (blue) gas torches that work well. Map gas runs hotter than propane. Propane will get the job done, but will just take a little longer. I have not seen them with a torx head. Always with a hex. Yes, mine has always been easy to remove. They shouldn't be on that tight because they are standard pipe threads. Maybe yours got replaced at some point and over tightened? If you replace it, make sure to replace it with one that is the same type of metal as the housing (steal?). Dissimilar metals can weld themselves together over time. Maybe pick one up from a local junk yard or pick-n-pull type place. Chrysler 4.7L V8s are in a TON of makes and models over many years, so one should be available. Good luck!!!

[@davestewart9146]

Really helpful video, thank you 👍😁

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@NXT_LVL]

Saw another video where they left the bleeder screw out to watch for flow/bubbles. Though with that type of filler/burp funnel wouldnt that now be the highest point? Either way MOST everyone including myself didn't know about the bleeder. I've just checked levels and added maybe a 8-10oz over the years total based on the overflow tank dipstick. Came with Red antifreeze from the factory so I've used the Orange if needed.

[@petrocksgarage]

If the truck is jacked up in the front or the truck is not level the bleeder screw may or may not be the highest point. But it will be close and can still be used to bleed air. Correct, the filler funnel does become the highest point. I wouldn't remove the bleeder all together though. It would likely create one heck of a mess and get a bunch of coolant on your accessory belt, which effectively ruins it. Hope that helps and good luck.

[@NXT_LVL]

@@petrocksgarage Thanks! Yeah thats what I was thinking too as i'm seeing it run out down the block and onto the ground while its "bleeding" in their video. My truck sits pretty level now But i have jack stands to offset it if needed. Got a funnel kit from amazon in a few days ago. Saw I had a comment notification from you and wanted to say Thanks.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck.

[@samhilverink3695]

Any tips on getting that top bolt back in

[@petrocksgarage]

For the thermostat housing? I usually disconnect the housing from the hose and hold the housing to the block from underneath. Get the bottom bolt in a couple threads so you can still move/wiggle the housing around. Then get the top bolt in. Hope that helps.

[@ericpope7835]

What is the correct way to fill the coolant? Should I remove the cap and fill it to the level of the drain / overflow? Because every time I check it, it is low, but there is coolant in the resivouir.

[@petrocksgarage]

Following the steps I show in the video should get you there. But either you've got air in the system and need to bleed it via the bleed screw like in the video, or you've got a coolant leak somewhere. Could be external or internal. If, after bleeding, you still have low coolant I'd rent a radiator pressure tester from your local auto parts store and try to find the leak. Good luck.

[@joshsandoval7069]

Great vid

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@YokohamaMike]

Thanks

[@petrocksgarage]

You're welcome.

[@alfredodirks3537]

Isn't there a gasket between the block and the thermostat housing???

[@petrocksgarage]

Yes, its the rubber ring around the thermostat.

[@speaklifegardenhomesteadpe8783]

Thank you so much!!

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Glad to be of service.

[@JonJonChannel]

How to drain and fill coolant for 2013 Mustang?

[@petrocksgarage]

Sorry, my videos are primarily on my personal vehicles. I don't own that vintage mustang. I do have a video recorded, but not edited, for a Fox Body/SN95 era mustang though. I'm not sure how similar that would be to a 2013 though. Good luck.

[@mikeblakeman8730]

What coolant do you recommend for the 4.7?

[@petrocksgarage]

I don't really recommend any specific brands. Use whatever is available in your area and is rated for your vehicle. Most brands websites have a guide to show what they offer for your year/make/model. I typically buy the concentrated coolant and make a 50/50 mix of it with distilled water at home. Its significantly cheaper then buying the 50/50 pre-mix and you get more coolant in the end (2 gallons). The 50/50 pre-mix is good in a pinch, but you are paying a really high cost for half a gallon of water and half a gallon of coolant. As for the color (Orange DexCool vs Yellow Universal), both will work just fine in the 4.7. But don't mix the two. Use one or the other. I recommend using the same color that is in your truck today. Only switch if you are going to do a complete flush of the system,. not just a drain & fill. Hope that helps.

[@mikeblakeman8730]

Cool,Thanks for the info.

[@petrocksgarage]

@@mikeblakeman8730 No problem. Good luck.

[@juansanchez-ju6gj]

How many gallons or quarts did yours take. I to have a 4.7in my jeep

[@petrocksgarage]

It entirely depends on if you get the fluid out of the block or just the radiator. So it's hard to say. If I'm just draining the radiator, and don't have any coolant laying around, I typically buy 1 gallon of concentrated coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water and mix them together to make 2 gallons of 50/50 mix. If I'm draining the radiator and the block then I buy 2 gallons concentrate & 2 gallons distilled water to make 4 gallons 50/50 mix. It's the same as the 50/50 pre-mix at the store but at half the cost. Extra coolant is always good to have around to top off the coolant periodically. Good luck.

[@juansanchez-ju6gj]

Ok thank you I was doing this as a first time for myself and was making sure everything was as is like in your video Appreciate the video very straight forward and alot of help

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Good luck.

[@devinmoore7746]

What color of coolant did you use?

[@petrocksgarage]

Prestone yellow/green universal coolant.

[@devinmoore7746]

@@petrocksgarage thank you! Also when removing the front crank seal while doing the timing chain do you need to drain the oil?

[@petrocksgarage]

@@devinmoore7746 I would because I want fresh oil running over the new chain when I'm done.

[@CameronDC-Grimes]

Aren't you supposed to drain from bottom of engine as well(where is that plug at?, use heater on high to empty heater core and engine of all coolant. I think the manual stated you needed to bleed with engine on and warmed up to get all bubbles out. I'm not positive, just trying to make sure all 3.875 Gallons (14.5 Quarts + 1 Quart in reservoir) of coolant is emptied and flushed in my 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 (Engine N). If you have sludge or sediment, is there a way to keep the sediment from entering heatercore or messing up pathways in engine/water pump? I've never flushed my Jeep before and I think it's well overdue and needs HOAT coolant (Zerex G05 Coolant). Was gonna buy 2 Gallons of Zerex GO5 Phosphate Free Concentrate HOAT antifreeze and buy 2 GA of distilled water to make a 44-68% mix, aiming at 50-55%. The Zerex G05 is the Mopar equivalent Any tips?

[@petrocksgarage]

No, pulling the thermostat will drain the motor of the majority of the coolant. There may still be a little left behind, but its nothing to worry about. It will get diluted by new/fresh fluid. Using the heater will not empty the heater core or make any fluid flow. The heater controls on the dash just controls the fan and vents. Coolant moves from the water pump spinning, and only when the engine is running. No, the service manual does not state to have the motor running to bleed the system. Its not needed on these 4.7L engines due to the placement of the thermostat below the motor and how the coolant passages are routed. The coolant will get to both sides of the thermostat no problem. After you've bled the system via the bleeder screw, you run the engine with the heater on high (including rear heat if you have it) to get out any air that may have snuck into the heater core. If you have sludge or sediment in your coolant then it is already in your heater core & engine passages. I'd advise getting a bottle of coolant flush and following its instructions, and fill/drain with water a couple times to get all of it out. Only then would I fill with 50/50 mix of (distilled) water/coolant. Use whatever coolant you can get that meets the specs in the owners manual. Brand doesn't really matter. Only that it meets the specs in the manual. Hope that helps. Good luck.

[@rondavid772]

What about using the drain plugs on the side of the block?

[@petrocksgarage]

It's unnecessary for a maintenance style drain & fill. Most of the coolant is drained via the method I show in this video. But if you want to pull that plug you can. It won't hurt. Good luck.

[@DerrickJones-ux7ri]

I tried to remove the lower hose to my 2000 Dodge Durango and it's a bitch to get to nit didn't see the thermostat housing that's attached to the lower radiator hose .

[@petrocksgarage]

Hoses can get a P.I.T.A. to remove sometimes. They tend to adhere to the tube they attach to. Twisting them to break that bond tends to help. As for the housing, you have a 4.7L? That is what this video is about. IMS, the T-Stat on other motors in these trucks is where the top hose attaches to the motor. Hope that helps. Good luck.

[@hurricane3789]

So many damn steps 😢 I thought it was a quick job

[@petrocksgarage]

It can be quick after you've done it a few times. 🙂

[@hurricane3789]

I’m draining now 😂 hands big should I change thermostat as well ? Truck been sitting a year and half

[@petrocksgarage]

@@hurricane3789, if the T-stat has been in the truck for 5+ years I would replace it or at least the T-state gasket. Especially if you remove it to drain the block. The old gasket may not seal properly if its stiff or cracked. Good luck.

[@mrdanger4851]

If you Flush the system you will DOUBLE these steps 🥴

[@petrocksgarage]

Kind of true. Just the drain & fill part is repeated for a flush.

[@butternut741]

I m not a speed reader had to go back several times to read what you typed in so no thumbs up

[@petrocksgarage]

Neither am I (dyslexic). I usually just pause videos when text appears. But you do you. Sorry I didn't make the text stay up longer and thanks for the feedback.

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

THAT'S WHY YOU GET THE DRAIN PLUG FROM THE BOTTOM , JUST LIKE THE TH,STAT ,

[@petrocksgarage]

I'm really not sure what you are referring to here. I do get to the radiator drain plug from the bottom. Its the only way to get to it since it is at the bottom of the radiator.

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

TODAY I TOO WANNA BE A MACIANIC , BUT DON'T EVEN KNOW THE BASICS

[@petrocksgarage]

KZbin University to the rescue!!!

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

Just because the heater is blowing hot air doesn't mean it's got all the air out !... my dodge is blowing plenty of heat but still overheating and hoses about too burst from Preston not Abel too circulate and believe me so not even the bleeding job worked out not even th,Stat replacement and not even water pump replacement and not even the many things I've tried working out

[@petrocksgarage]

Yes, you are right re the heater and air in the system. However, you are assuming that air in the system is the cause of your overheating. My guess is air not being able to flow over the radiator fins efficiently, a problem with the radiator (damaged, clogged internally or externally), clogged coolant passages in the block or the system not being able to hold pressure. Good luck.

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

MEANING GET UNDER THE VEHICLE TOO GET TOO THE DRAIN PLUG NOT THROUGH THE HOOD IT'S MUCH EASIER

[@petrocksgarage]

@@ElmerPacheco-j9j, yes, thats what I do in the video (@1:00, @1:19 and @1:55). I'm not understanding the issue here.

[@ElmerPacheco-j9j]

CAN'T TELL !!!

[@petrocksgarage]

It's ok. You can tell me. I won't tell anyone else. I promise.

[@bryonlee3036]

SOA SANSOFANARCHY

[@petrocksgarage]

Don't you mean SONS, not SANS? Either way, I'm not sure why you're referencing a TV show that has been off the air for 8 years on a video that has nothing to do with motorcycles. Just curious.