How to drill harden steel

[@psdaengr911]

My shop instructor taught us that the fastest way to damage any cutting tool was to stress it thermally. I'm surprised that a fluid wasn't used to help transfer heat away from the cutting edges.

[@cdrive5757]

I'm surprised he hasn't responded to this. Wakodahatchee Chris

[@shopandmath]

Your shopping instructor is correct Coolant or lubrication should’ve been used

[@angusmurray3767]

Carbide does not need cutting fluid. In fact cutting fluid can be detrimental because it can cool unevenly. Carbide thrives on heat and pressure and the pair can produce a mirror finish.

[@NOBOX7]

@@angusmurray3767 Agreed not to mention an EDM drill should be used

[@theshauny]

@@angusmurray3767the only problem i see is being this is brazed carbide there is a possibility of damaging the the connection between the carbide/braze/steel

[@2000sborton]

Thank you. As a woodworker I am not up on all of the ins and outs of steel. Clear and simple explanation of why and how to do this. Much appreciated.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you Steve for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@rufustoad1]

I am giving you 2 thumbs up because it worked on something I have tried to find a solution to for days. Excellent advice!!!

[@shopandmath]

Thank you very much for the nice comment. It is much appreciated. I’m glad that things worked out for you. Ray

[@talltom1129]

This was interesting. I'm 35 years as a glazier, and when the tile guys on jobsites started using the newer hard ceramic tile, we had a tough time getting through it with basic masonry bits. And we all broke tiles soon as we turned on the hammer function of our drills. So,we had to start using the carbide tipped spearpoint bits. These were and still are expensive, so I started using my little tabletop Harbor Freight tile saw which has a built in water tray to sharpen my bits. Naturally, other glaziers asked me to sharpen theirs, too. The smart ones, that is, who didn't want to spend ridiculous money on new ones for every job. Sure, I could have built the price of the bits into the quote,but where's the fun in that? I learned to copy the angle of a new one, too,so they would function well. If you sharpen them at a 90 degree angle, they just heat up and bust loose from their braze.

[@whirlwind8825]

Porcelain tile ...use diamond bits

[@talltom1129]

@@whirlwind8825 me and whose money? They're cost prohibitive.

[@shopandmath]

Very innovative thinking

[@bpark10001]

Use hollow diamond-grit bits on tile & glass. Back both with another scrap piece & drill through tile & only partially through the scrap when drilling to avoid break-through disasters.

[@stevebelcher1527]

Thank you for this , i have always heard of this on knife making forums but never seen it put to practice

[@shopandmath]

You’re welcome and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@TurtleWaxed]

An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Please, next time if there’s something that could’ve been changed in the video or something you think could’ve been better. Let me know cause I’m going to be making another video on drilling hard material

[@zjtr10]

Thanks for the easy to understand explanation. That makes perfect sense to me. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@shopandmath]

thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray.

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

Great video, very simple and easy to follow and i liked how your focus was on both cheap & easy to acquire drill bits as well as the tools needed to sharpen them. Almost every hobbyist has a either a bench grinder or disc grinder. Had never considered using the diamond tile discs for sharpening masonry bits to tackle drilling tool steel. If you broke a tap and needed it out, 3$ sounds like the bargain of the century for cutting it out.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

Retired GM shoprat. Worked near a ring gear tapping machine. Broken, in hole taps were "set aside", and later "arced?" zapped? and ??? re-tapped. This was in the Lansing, Michigan "Forge-Plant" #2 rear axle assembly of 1969+ era. This process was utilized on Saturdays=overtime. As it was 'Splained to me..... "too much time and machining was invested to NOT attempt a repair.

[@georgedennison3338]

There are small diameter CBN & PCD, (diamond), drum bits available which work well for both creating/modifying carbide cutting tips which don't cost a fortune & work nicely for making positive rake cutting edges. One of my fav go to's for rough cutting steel, (when the piece won't fit in my saw(s)/shop is an ancient Skil 77 worm drive w/ a diamond masonry blade too worn to cleanly cut tile in my wet saw. Been using them both w/ a an air nozzle for clearing slag & cooling for 15+ years; neither the 50 yr old saw or the 'dead' blade know the word quit. A note of caution when grinding carbide, (or cobalt drills). Carbide contains cobalt. Cobalt is NOT healthy for your lungs OR body. I'm struggling w/ how to make a new diamond abrasive based grinder safe, right now. I try to batch my carbide grinding to lessen the prep & clean up work. I vacuum the grinder/saw & area before, during & after the work and wear a cartridge type respirator in the during & after phase, then go outside & blow off my body. You don't want an accumulation of the stuff in your shop. Cobalt is mildly radioactive, but has enough 'buzz' to mess up your life, down the road. Good vid, I've found masonry bits to come in handy, at times. I just saw some carbide tipped HSS bits on Ali Express for a good price. Don't bad mouth Chinese stuff until you try it; there is some excellant quality tooling out there, at a fraction of US price. (CNC has been the great equalizer & put a turbo'd the improvement in Chinese products, compared to Japan's 20-30 improvement path, post WWII.

[@jameslovering9158]

Agree with Chinese tools, same quality at prices that I can afford as against 3 or 4X in the local retailers.

[@beetroot7486]

I used these masonry bits to drill holes into bearing races. Works like a charm.

[@matthubbard8541]

Ray, once again a very informative post, thanks!

[@RECKLESSFAMILY2]

Very impressive: all for the cost of a few masonry drill bits! I am going to try to re-grind the masonry drill bits using the small diamond discs used in Dremel type tools as I already have them and only need to drill 4mm holes in hardened steel. Many thanks.

[@shopandmath]

The idea of using a Dremel is really good. I don’t think I thought of that one. Thank you for sharing let everybody can have this idea as well Ray

[@chrisbryden8102]

Not sure how I landed here but I’m blown away you cut that hole on $3 and a brain! Well done sir.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@shaundeibert3079]

Lol I could have used this info a while back. I had to put holes in a new blade for my friends tractor bucket. That was an adventure. I made slow progress with cobalt bits, constantly resharpening, I actually enjoy sharpening drill bits. The whole world disappears and its just me, the bits and the grinder. I ended up using a cutting torch which made quick work of it.

[@shopandmath]

If you have access to a torch, which you obviously do, it might’ve been worthwhile just heating that area up so it’s red hot and then letting it cool down then try drilling it because that would have reduced the hardness of the material and made it easier to drill. Depends on how accurate you need the holes whenever I could punch a hole in with the torch I’m all for it. Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated. It’s important for everyone to share their experiences.

[@saidutube]

Concise and thorough! Thank you and greetings from Patagonia Chile!!

[@shopandmath]

from chilli that’s awesome Thank you for letting me know where you’re from. I appreciate that it. It’s kind of cool and thank you for taking the time to comment with a nice comment. It is so much appreciated. Thank you Ray

[@alewis8765]

I use carbide bits to drill safes, ATMs and bank vaults. For the really hard stuff I use diamond cutters. I bought an EDM tap remover to try out on hard plate.

[@shopandmath]

The diamond cutter you’re using is it fragment welded or spray welded on? Is it the same type of cutter people used to cut tile or glass?

[@alewis8765]

@@shopandmath No idea. The ones you get at the hardware store for cutting tile and glass are usually too short. I get mine from a restricted source. But the carbide works for 99.9% of what I do. If the material is too "soft" like steel or hardened steel, diamonds are too hard and won't get very far. A few years back I was asked to cut a 2" hole in the ballistic barrier of a guard shack. The electrician tasked with making upgrades needed to run conduit through the wall. He said he'd burned up 2 diamond annular cutters, to the tune of $1800, according to him. I already knew he was running too fast, and too much pressure, and no lubrication. He was skeptical when I showed up with a couple Spyder carbide tipped hole saws. I handed him a spray bottle and told him to spray it whenever he saw sparks. Took about 10 minutes of drilling to get through. Couldn't believe that the spray bottle only had tap water. The moral of the story is that technique and cutter selection are better than expensive cutters.

[@denisiwaszczuk1176]

Great vid . As a Greenhorn in a machine shop as a lad . Boss gives me a hyd ram piston says cut in half . Friction saw and here you go . Did,nt tell me it was new and was playing trick .Thinking id be there for hours with a Hacksaw. Greeting from Australia

[@shopandmath]

Welcome from Australia I, too have had many other tricks played on me when I was new Thank you for sharing Ray

[@1crazypj]

If anyone want's to try this, it's much cheaper to get a diamond circular saw blade. It will be a bit coarse but will work to grind carbide into shape. I've been using masonry drills to drill through broken taps and hardened carbon steel since the late 1970's, well before solid carbide drill bits were easily available (or affordable)

[@bernardkinsky1637]

I do the same, even made a blade sharpener out of a old tile cutter as the speed is only 180 rpm

[@bernardkinsky1637]

Same, worked for Caterpillar my job was removing broke taps bolts and studs.

[@1crazypj]

@@bernardkinsky1637 Neat, probably works much better than mounting a circular saw upside down and spinning at high rpm

[@jeffreymason9841]

Would a cutting fluid of some type have made a difference in the breakage ? I am assuming that the bits get hot and that’s contributing to breakage , but just curious if in fact the heat does play a part and if you have used cutting fluid in the past .

[@shopandmath]

Yes, cutting fluid would help all the demos that I’ve done in my three hardness , drilling videos were worst. Case scenarios just demonstrate the ability of hand, sharpening Concrete bits If you have the ability to use coolant and air at the same time, that would be probably the best situation for most steals if it is an extremely hard steel, and you can increase the rigidity and use oil, if the temperature is not excessive, that would also be a really good situation I hope this helps Ray

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

@@shopandmath Had a former Alanson, Michigan friend who made fixtures for testing wiring harnesses. Their materials were "plastic-non conductive". Elmer LaTocha taught me to "PECK DRILL"= CUT AND REMOVE BIT, SPINNINIG TO AIR COOLTHE BIT, THEN "PECK IT SLIGHTLY DEEPER, AND REPEAT. Cuss-ed as I am I needed to "see what NOT, following this method DID! THE HEAT OF FRICTION DRILLING YIELDS A LARGER HOLE IN THE "PLASTICS' " MATERIAL. We as a society "grow in knowledge by "Paying IT Forward".

[@michaelallen1432]

The little diamond wheels for your Dremel from harbor freight are quite useful for small jobs

[@shopandmath]

I have not tried that, but it is a good suggestion for the next video. Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated. Ray

[@mrkeopele]

very nice education my friend , thank you so much.

[@shopandmath]

I’m glad that you enjoyed the video And thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@plupyduplupydu1369]

Cool. Ive been sharpening drills for many years, that magnifier helps so much. From my experience 1 in 10 bits are straight(cheap or not) which can cut many many holes. The angle of the angles doesnt matter but the edges have to be identical. Good eyes can notice an out of round bit, but a good hole proves it.

[@shopandmath]

It’s harder to see the small bits And I don’t sharpen as many as I used to

[@shanerorko8076]

I've done this to drill leaf springs, but I use a neutral angle, it makes smaller chips, but it keeps the tips stronger.

[@shopandmath]

You are correct by keeping a neutral tip. It will make this drill last longer. This video is one of my most successful videos as far as viewing unfortunately, it was a disaster to make I originally had a square piece of material that I was going to drill by hand with a hand drill, but our hardness tester was broken at the time and I’ve had a few comments where people think that I’m rigging or being dishonest with the hardness numbers so I chose something that everyone could identify as being extremely hard And I also wanted to clamp this in an odd position to an Ibeam or the side of a table To demonstrate The ideas behind this was to demonstrate how you can drill harden material with very little cost with out expensive equipment. If you watch the video on the shop tour, you’ll see that our shop is equipped with everything and if we don’t have it in our shop, one of the other shops at the College has it I never made this clear during my video presentation and I will try to do it with my next drilling video

[@YoutubeTech82]

Really good work man.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@danielpullum1907]

You might have had a Hastloy insert which is still harder than HSS. Stellite (I worked at a Union Carbide plant in 1966) where stellite was manufactured. It was only a few points below most tungsten carbide. It was hard. I don't remember the exact chemistry but it had cobalt, chromium, and ???? It was not machinable, so it had to be cast and them finished by diamond grinding. We made many turbine blades for jets using Hastaloy which would maintain strength and stability in a red heat. We made thousands of valve seats for Caterpillar by casting rings then grinding to final shape.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for sharing I only have one piece of Stella and it’s a late turning into. I keep it in my laptop bag, along with carbide diamond tip, and ceramic as a demonstration to show students the cutting materials Ray

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

I had never though of using a drill to harden steel, interesting concept.

[@cdrive5757]

What? Did you actually watch the video? Wakodahatchee Chris

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

@@cdrive5757 I already know how to drill hardened steel and don't need to drill harden steel.

[@cdrive5757]

@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA Considering KZbin's reputation for ??? Titles, spelling, grammar, etc, your point seems trivial.

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

@@cdrive5757 You sound like a very sensitive person.

[@cdrive5757]

@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA I'm glad you feel that way. My parole officer thinks I'm combative!

[@ronaldsookoo2022]

Nice video I learnt some thing new thanks

[@NoferTrunions]

Awesome pace and information density! I'm dealing with some kind of "undrillable" automotive unibody reinforcement sheet steel (around 14ga) which HSS does nothing. What's worse, they have to be hand drilled AND there are obstructions: will have to use either a compact right angle drill OR a 12" bit extension.

[@raysfix]

send metal has its own problems for drilling, especially where it wants to pull the drill in to the material after you break through the surface this causes the drill to slip inside of the chuck and damages shank there are some tricks to prevent this from happening, such as reducing clearance or drilling with a negative rake If the material is plated, or has a coding like titanium by trading, there are some bits available that will melt the metal, but I think that they’re only available with a Rigid set up and not compatible with hand drilling

[@KW-ei3pi]

Great video. Thanks. There is another method of drilling hardened steel that I used when I was a teenager working in a Chainsaw Shop. We sold milling attachments for chainsaws and had to drill holes in the chainsaws bar to mount them. The tip of the bar was hardened in those days before sprocket tips. It was impossible to drill through them with a drill press. It just burned up the drills. So we used HSS drill bits in a hand cranked drill press that applied pressure via a large hand nut. Cranking very slowly while applying pressure, we could easily drill the hardened steel. It took a bit of time, but not as much as you might think. Regards.

[@shopandmath]

thank you for sharing. It is much appreciated. I do have on order a red hardness drillbit but apparently it takes six months for this thing to come from China and it’s like $200 for a 3/16 bit. It uses high temperature red heat to melt through the material which isn’t really drilling but when it comes in, I will make a video on that as well.

[@michaelallen1432]

That is really good to know. This was an awesome video.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you, Michael for the next comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@miles11we]

When drilling hardish material that isnt harder than your hss drills, i find that grinding a small flat at the edge (so its a neutral rake/cutting angle instead of positive) will let you drill a lot of materials that would otherwise just dull your drill in a few seconds, its slow though, chips dont curl up and evacuate as well as a normal grind.

[@miles11we]

Obv isn't gonna go through actually hard stuff but its come in handy with materials that just wouldn't drill well but were softer than the hss

[@alecgarner]

I do this to drill through saw plate, it's a cheap and effective option.

[@andyb7754]

Very interesting information, thank you.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray

[@dizzolve]

what is the technical name for those diamond dressing sticks? when i do a search for diamond dressing stick i get all kinds of results. what is the material in the stick called? Thanks! I'll be dressing a Norton surface grinding type diamond wheel

[@sawaab.a3756]

Some useful video ideas are how to dial in a micrometer or how to grind drills I graduated the course and struggled with these 2 topics. Great video tho!!!

[@shopandmath]

I have videos on both of those topics. In the how to read a micrometer, it shows taking a micrometre apart and what you have to do to adjust it to dial it in or reset The drill making video is older one of the first videos that I created. Good hearing from you Sawaab Have you seen the new campus?

[@simon3065]

Great video, thanks for sharing

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for your nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray

[@pauloconnor7951]

Impressed. Would be fun to drill some junk - discarded- no longer used safes. :)

[@barry7608]

Neat thanks. I sharpen my own HSS drills on a dressed bench grinder, and get very good results even down to 1/8. Taught by my father. I found this fascinating and ‘doable’. Would cutting fluids help or hinder? Take care.

[@shopandmath]

Yes, cutting oil would absolutely help I was trying to demonstrate, which I didn’t explain well in the video or at all How I could do this is cost-effective as possible. We have all of the equipment in the shop to cut any type of material at any hardness. I wanted this video to be about the ability to drill something hard, not necessarily as hard as a cutter, but in your own backyard using Minimal tools with minimal cost keep in mind I went through three drills and each drill cost me one dollar each Canadian so not a real dollar Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@pnfoster]

Was hoping to learn how to drill hardened steel. Will keep looking.

[@godfreypoon5148]

Same. This seems to be about how to harden steel with a drill. Never heard of drill-hardening before though.

[@deeperm8763]

Hey this video is cool. Would you have any tips or ideas on best ways to drill out or remove. A broken piece of Easy out bolt extractor tool if possible Thanks 🙏

[@shopandmath]

I would use the same technique that I used in one of my previous videos on how to remove remove a tap by using a guide plate kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIS2mXt-Z7qma7Msi=l5ookITZoDb7UuJn Best of luck let me know how it goes Ray

[@chadherbert18]

I drilled holes in 24,000 low carbon steel rings for a Chainmail shirt that I wanted to rivet. I went through dozens of titanium, carbide, and steel 1/32” bits (cleared the hardware store out a few times 😂), but many just dulled, so I’ll try sharpening some as per this video to get more life out of them! :)

[@59CRUISER1]

Great video, very informative. What interests me is your safety helmet. Who is it made by & can you supply a link, cheers.

[@shopandmath]

I think you’re talking about the magnifying headset? I picked that up from an Amazon return store I think so it must be available on Amazon

[@Ben.last.name.]

I'm curious about the runout in the diamond grinding wheel on startup. Seems to present itself again during the dressing operation and also in the 8x footage you see it a bit as the drills is sharpened.

[@shopandmath]

It’s a visual illusion. It has to do with the bit rate of the video so when it speeds up and slows down it looks like it’s a wobbling

[@mikesgabellone5089]

iused to do this in the late 70s but forgot about it, thanks

[@shopandmath]

You’re correct this trick is not new but it’s a good cost-effective way of producing holes and harder material Now, you can buy bits from Bosch and Dewalt without having to sharpen them

[@stephenlett9208]

Great video Ray

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@WilliamHalle]

3 in one oil works great in s shop, and will preserve your tools against heat damage. Heat is especially a factor with brazed tool bits. Putting a nice sharp edge on any drill bit is easy if you have a diamond flat sharpener, in the same idea as a 3 by 8 inch stone.

[@shopandmath]

if you don’t have a diamond wheel, some people have been commenting about using a small diamond wheel on a Dremel now I personally have never thought of that, and I will be incorporating that in on one of my next videos just to see how it turns out Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@steveclark..]

​@@shopandmathWhy didn't you use cutting oil or any kind of lube when you drilled that hole?? That and slow speed, you probably would have completed the hole with the first drill bit.

[@jimsvideos7201]

Hard or hardened, if I may. I've recently seen "multi-material" bits at home despot that are outwardly the same as the masonry bits, but they have cutting geometry ground into the carbide, where the masonry ones seem to be ground without it.

[@shopandmath]

Yes, a lot of the companies that make quality tools also make them as well. I have some from Dewalt and Milwaukee They have a neutral, rake angle

[@carlosmorgan8123]

Eso amazing video thanks

[@shopandmath]

Thank you it is nice to get a positive comment Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@maxenielsen]

Marvelous! Thank you!

[@shopandmath]

It is nice to see positive comments. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment it is. Much appreciated. Ray

[@markloubser2433]

Excellent info, thanks

[@shopandmath]

Thank you Mark for the nice comment and thank you for taking time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@dionysosvaden3509]

An outstanding presentation! Special thanks for being considerate and lowering the irritating background volume. 99% of youtube videos have a volume which destroys the eardrums and renders the useful speech useless.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment I’ve recently picked up a noise cancelling microphone hopefully the shop videos turned out a little bit nicer

[@kabuti2839]

That is how i drilled out some head bolts i broke off. Did not modify the bits.

[@nickb3005]

I really like that lighted magnifier headset you got. I've not seen that style before. Can you tell me where to buy that style? Thank you!

[@shopandmath]

The magnifier was bought from Amazon. Sorry I don’t have a link for it.

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very interesting. Nice work sir

[@shopandmath]

thank you for the nice comment. It is very much appreciated and thank you for taking the time to comment. Ray

[@dc6233]

It seems one reason the bits were breaking was you were using a drill press. If it were solid mounted in a Bridgeport, or similar machine, I think you could have got away with one bit. Your masonry bit is also fairly long, letting it wander. It's an interesting concept, in the case I ever have to drill something super hard. Wasn't that a HSS end mill that you were trying to drill? how would you drill a similar 7/8ths/1" (whatever diameter it is) pure carbide end mill??

[@shopandmath]

This is my third drilling video and I’m trying to make a video that anyone with even the cheapest tools can sharpen a bit that will cut hard material. I may not have conveyed that sentiment through the video. In the shop that I was at we have millions of dollars of equipment and I could’ve just easily did it on the CNC machine, but I wanted it something that we could do at your house or if you needed to get something like a hard bolt out of your car and use a hand drill Next video. I’ll try and do better. Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. Ray

[@job38four10]

I'm assuming this works on truck-spring to, I always have to torch drill on that stuff which ok since I'm not using truck-spring as truck-spring, but still like to get a round hole..........

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for your comment. I’m not exactly sure what truck spinning is.? It might be called something different in my area

[@mjwint]

Do you have any indication of what type carbide is used for the bits?

[@shopandmath]

sorry, I don’t know what type of carbide or grade of carbide is in these drillbits I was just trying to demonstrate how for very little cost at home and you can drill through very hard steel. I would’ve brought the Anmol up to the hardness tester to find out the exact hardness one. Unfortunately, we just moved it and it’s still in lockdown mode or transportation mode. I pick those Drill bits up from the restore, which is the cheapest place. I could find they only cost me a dollar each no tax Canadian. If you watch the shop tour video you will see that I have access to millions of dollars worth of equipment and an excellent environment to machine almost anything my friends keep telling me that I need to make videos that the average person with the most basic tools can still drill out a broken tap or Harden Bolt at home. Sorry I couldn’t answer your question. Ray

[@chauvinemmons]

I always save broken carbide stubs sharpen them like a flat screwdriver adding the relief like a regular drill but much flatter 150 deg and run relatively slow never over 800

[@shopandmath]

thank you for sharing And thank you for commenting, and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. The little things we save that most people would consider scrap can be quite valuable, especially if you resourceful

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but grinding carbide is a serious health hazard... wear a good mask for safety... I have done this masonry bit trick many times myself... works great ! 🤗 😎👍☘🍻

[@shopandmath]

Thank you I did not add that in any of my comments. I’m generally a pretty safe person. I appreciate the tip thank you. Have a great day and thank you for commenting. It was much appreciated.

[@quantumss]

You should know that you could use a "green" grinding wheel to grind carbide.

[@shopandmath]

Green wheels will work but a diamond wheel is the best It’s kind of like using a paintbrush to paint the car, or gun one is obviously better than the other

[@Richard_L_Y]

Is the shank part of the end mill actually hardened though?

[@shopandmath]

Yes, this end mill is through hardened

[@michaelwmauser1]

I bought a pack of 15 each 5/32" Diamond Hole Saw Drill Bits from Amazon for $7 and used just one to drill out a broken screw extractor.

[@shopandmath]

That certainly is a cost-effective way of doing it Switch off part about buying stuff from Amazon or the Temu as you never know what you get sometimes Thank you for sharing

[@johnnyrotit844]

Is it possible to just buy a cobalt drill bit for metal if I can't make it?

[@shopandmath]

yes, it is possible to go to cobalt drill. They can be a little bit. Pricey, there are a few other brands that make carbide tip drills that drill freely. Milwaukee and Dewalt Bosch makes a set.

[@bpark10001]

I leave the negative angle in, but sharpen the cutting edge. The tip will then not break so easily. Drilling force will be higher, but that is OK as most of the load on the edge is in compression, which the carbide can take. (If you look at drills for removing taps, they have negative edges.) You need to slow the speed, apply sulfur cutting oil, & drill steadily rather than peck so much. Contrary to popular opinion, "carbide" is not pure tungsten carbide; it is a composite of powdered carbide bonded with cobalt which can melt. You need to limit tool temperature with reduced speed & coolant, just like when using high speed steel. Be very careful when encountering intersecting cross-holes (as you did in the milling cutter)& at break-through.

[@shopandmath]

Those are all good tips. Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@andrerousseau5730]

Why did you decide to use dry drilling? Wouldn't flood-cooling have helped avoid the breakages?

[@shopandmath]

Coolant or oil would have been preferred I was doing it on a drill press and didn’t want to make a mess My parameters for this video Number one accessibility for everybody with limited tools (someone with a drill press, or hand drill and a grinder could make these drillbits for around $10) Second Pick material that everybody understood was extremely hard. Unfortunately, our hardness tester was in shipping mode from the move still And I could not tell you the exact hardness of the material. So I picked something that is easily recognized by everyone and they understand that it’s extremely hard. Third Demonstrate an easy and basic set up I currently have three videos, including this one on drilling harden material. Do you have any ideas for my next video? Thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray

[@LockBits-ts6eo]

Thanks mate!

[@shopandmath]

thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It was much appreciated. Ray

[@robertpeters9438]

I think a bearing right above the part would reduce the run out of the drill bit and possibly reduce carbide breakage.

[@shopandmath]

you are most likely correct The reason for me doing this is the type of videos that I shoot are one and done style ideally, I would’ve he treated my own piece of material brought it to the hardness tester, but I’ve had people tell me that I swapped the material out which obviously isn’t true but still it kind of puts the I’m being scammed in the air so I decided to choose something which everyone can identify with and see. I understand that that’s hard because it’s an endmill Thank you for contributing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@miguelcastaneda7257]

Carbide bit slowest speed you can constast pressure...had to do reapairs on machines many times

[@brad2548]

Excellent

[@shopandmath]

Hi Brad, thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@TheOneAndOnlySame]

Hmm going faster, with cutting fluid and light pressure?

[@donald4416]

If you do that I can slowly drill this hoke in chain saw clutch bit bigger for needle bearing cage slide in straight I can always high speed dremmel it with easy wilth emery paper

[@johnbesharian9965]

Should work on dovetail, tenon saw, miter saw and other back saw plates, etc., as well as any other hand saw saw plate, all of which which are made of spring steel.

[@danl.4743]

Brilliant! 👍

[@raysfix]

Thank you and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray

[@xONEWINGx]

0:52 Stellite is not basically high speed steel. It doesn't even have iron/steel in it. Its tungsten carbide "glued" in a matrix with cobalt.

[@raysfix]

You are correct. I am guilty of dumbing down my comparison I was just trying to convey a comparison of metal that people would be able to understand Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and comment. It is much appreciated. Ray

[@rmerrick123]

What's your suggestion to drill out harden steel bolts stuck in the frame of my Jeep?

[@shopandmath]

For bolts, I would use a drill that has cobalt in it. Dewalt makes them and Milwaukee makes them unfortunately since it’s in the frame, you will have to use a hand drill If you have a good drill sharpening skills, you should be able to do it with one drill no problem if you have difficulty sharpening drills and don’t have access to someone who does I would suggest getting more than one I would also suggest drilling out the centre of the bolt, and using an easy out to remove the rest of the bolt If the bolt still has a head on it, there are multiple ways of removing that using extractors which do not require drilling. Wish you all the best let me know how it goes. To stop the drill from wondering if you can put a Centre punch Mark in the bolt .

[@rmerrick123]

@shop and math , yeah...not only in the frame..but on the underside in the rear wheel well. In a very hard to reach spot of course. Thanks for the tips.

[@shopandmath]

@@rmerrick123 A couple more ideas that you might want to consider I don’t know if it’s possible to get an easy out or stud remover into the position that you’re trying to get at I have used a Dremel type tool that has a 90° head to get into super tight spaces, then modified and easy out basically made it shorter to fit inside the tight space use an air chisel to place the easy out inside the hole And removed it with a ratchet wrench Best of luck let me know how it goes Ray

[@ralphsawyer9535]

Best way to hard tool a hole... carbide drill and constant compressed air blowing those hard chips out and cooling the hardened tool steel. Drill at a fairly fast rpm, depending on drill diameter, and peck... cut and get out, cut and get out, all while using your air hose or even a spray mist with the coolant shut off so its just blowing cool air. Carbide needs some rpm, especially smaller drill bits. You can use a good American made 10% cobalt bit if interupted cuts are involved, bc interupted cuts will destroy carbide. But you can't run the cobalt as fast as carbide. Flood cobalt bits with coolant. I'd say 800 rpm for a 1/4" carbide bit, 300 rpm for a good American made 10% cobalt 1/4" bit. Might want to ride your quill lock just a little when breaking thru so you dont knock the corners off your bits.

[@shopandmath]

That’s a good explanation. Thank you for sharing. Most cobalt drills at 5%. I haven’t heard of a 10% one. Do you know the manufacturers name? There are many types of cobalt drill bits, but the most common are M42 cobalt drill bits (composed of 8% cobalt) and M35 cobalt drill bits (5% cobalt)

[@ralphsawyer9535]

@@shopandmath You are so welcome and I hope you have good results. I've been retired for about 5 years so I cant recall the brands that make hss-cobalt 10% but I know they were American made. You got my curiosty up so I've kind of been looking around on the web with no luck, only 8% like you said. I will check my tooling later on to see if I have anything that will jog my memory. The 8% should work too with a little slower rpm and flood coolant. I could always tell a big difference between American hss-cobalt and imported, in all grades. I see MoMax makes a 10% but all I've found there are square bits, drill blanks, and part-off blades. Maybe try TRW Putnam or Cleveland Greenfield?

[@funlovingJohn]

Try using lub coolent spray, it may help.

[@CMAenergy]

When I use a masonry bit and sharpen it I also do the leading edge that is the top part, as Those bits are never accurate in my estimation, and they never give me a true clean cut. I sharpen them as I sharpen a standard HSS bit.

[@shopandmath]

That is a very good suggestion. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@racedouge1]

Thirty year toolmaker, Carbide and turpentine for lubricant. Like butter

[@shopandmath]

Have to try that thank you for sharing

[@NTSRFR4]

How much did those drill bits cost and your time? Did you figure that in to the $3 cost? No cutting fluid? I don't quite understand how the dressing thing works. Does it just clean out the built up debris?

[@shopandmath]

it was a total of three dollars because I used three bits The idea or concept of this was to drill hardy material as cost-effectively as I possibly could using only machines that I have at home This concept might be a little hard to understand and it it would take a long paragraph to explain properly I have access to millions of dollars worth of machining equipment and my buddies keep telling me yeah you can do this but what happens when I’m at home and I break a bolt working under a car or something like that how do I get that out? There is bits available that you can buy made by manufactured by Dewalt and Milwaukee They are considerably more expensive I hope this answered your question Ray

[@yolisurich4025]

Why didn't you use some cutting oil?

[@shopandmath]

I didn’t explain this very well in the video I was trying to demonstrate drilling the material with minimal cost, and also with tools that you most likely have at home and you wouldn’t have the good cutting oils that I have at work If you watch the shop tour video, we have everything to remove material regardless of the hardness or type of material in our shop. I didn’t use any of the EDM’s or CNC equipment or tool cutter grinders sharpen the drill. I wanted to do everything by hand in a fashion that could be repeated Basically in a home shop. I probably should’ve explained that a little bit better in the video. Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment

[@bensonideas295]

Thanks fo sharing

[@larrydixon4553]

Thank you.

[@shopandmath]

you’re welcome and thank you for taking the time to Comment it’s much appreciated Ray

[@Joe_Damageo]

What material is the diamond dressing stone?

[@shopandmath]

It’s aluminum oxide with a weak bond

[@michaelsheppard4227]

I have 2 stainless steel 1/4" bolts broke in a lower unit on a boat. Drilled through both bolts with a cobalt bit but then I broke a ease out in one of the bolts. So i got 2 more cobalt bits and 2 dremel cutters for hardened steel. Wish I'd known of this trick 1st. Now to destroy the bits and more than likely the dremel cutting tips.

[@shopandmath]

I love this type of challenge If you use a guide plate, you can drill the hole so precise that you can use the same quarter 20 taped hole if you use a guide plate, you can drill the hole so precise that you can use the same quarter 20 tap hole Let me know how this project goes Ray

[@michaelsheppard4227]

@@shopandmath I got them out with the dremel last night. Had to drill out hole to 5/16 but it's all good. It took forever to cut that ease out out. I can't believe 1 dremel bit done it though. Now to re-thread it tonight and then put back together and get back on the water.

[@JMP1649]

@@michaelsheppard4227 In future if same problem, consider left twist drill bit. If broken bolt not too tight in threads left twist drill bit can back out broken bolt by drilling in reverse rotation.

[@philosophyofvalue8506]

I think you mean hardened steel. To drill harden steel as a compound verb you could work harden it with the drill bit cutting edge. To drill hardened steel you can use a stellite drill, if you know how to use it. Carbide tipped drills are not adequate.

[@ralphwaters8905]

I often need to drill a #6 machine screw body drill thru stainless, and HSS is not cutting the mustard. (pun intended. Sorry.) Do I just need better HSS, or maybe cobalt?

[@shopandmath]

Stainless steel can be tricky. It depends on what grade it is and it also depends if it’s been work hardened. If it is being work hard, solid carbide has a very difficult time getting through it. If it’s not work hard, I would recommend a cobalt drill or maybe a split point Walter drill. Hopefully this helps. Ray

[@WL-mt4mv]

I have used carbide tipped glass and tile cutting drill bits for cutting hardened steel without reshaping the bit.

[@shopandmath]

I have a couple glass bits in my toolbox from when I was a little kid and I used to cut glass back in the day before we had all the fancy windows we used to have paint glass windows with the holes drilled in with the plastic handles to slide the windows open and closed I was going to make a video on using those as well or using them as an option, but I just couldn’t bring myself to damage one of those tools because I’ve had them for so long Thank you for sharing and thank you for commenting and taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@WL-mt4mv]

@@shopandmath You can get a set of 6 bits from Harbor Freight for less then $10.

[@borisj4054]

You can buy them. Called Artu titanium carbide tipped drill. Clean holes through hardened files.

[@shopandmath]

you are correct they do work well I have the ones from Milwaukee and from Dewalt both of those brands in my personal opinion I would still want to add more relief to the back clearance angle Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@barrykilts4506]

What about concrete bits?sorry I didn’t watch all the way thru first but what about using oil or any lube?

[@cellorange-yo8jw]

nice bro

[@seemooreb.9724]

👍

[@chrononaunt]

Just sharpen a negative angle on the tip of your masonry bit. It takes less then minute. Try it. You find it works just as good if not better.

[@shopandmath]

thank you for sharing and I will have to try that tip. Next time I sharpen a bit. Ray

[@philcamp8621]

What about a diamond coated drill bit?

[@shopandmath]

It depends They generally only do diamond coating real diamond coating on carbide. The diamond coating is a throwback from about 15 years ago. It’s a technology that they used on the space shuttle to deflect heat. On high-speed, steel or cobalt it wouldn’t do anything Think of coatings Like a chocolate covered cake those small Vashon cakes or Joe Louis the coating on the outside is hard very hard and the material behind. It is soft like a cake. The backing material must be very hard and tough to hold onto the coding on the outside to prevent it from flaking and cracking off I’m hoping that I explain this well articulated enough that you can understand what I’m trying to get at Ray

[@williammorris1763]

I'll take that night and day. 🔥

[@barry7608]

I thought you may have paid attention to the vertical edge and cutting ‘point’ at the circumstance?

[@shopandmath]

I did my best. The eyesight isn’t as good as it used to be, and I don’t sharpen drills every day like I used to so some of my hand eye coordination skills have gotten a little rusty. I probably should’ve used a larger drill like 3/8 or half inch but that would’ve risen the price per drill considerably Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.

[@Guds777]

Ahhhh, hahahahaha. I did read it as, how to drill harden steel, as in how to harden steel by drilling in it. Done that been there. Drilling 30mm hole in Hardox and even the carbide didn't work on it, fun times... :D :D

[@glasslinger]

Will a drill doctor machine do this OK?

[@shopandmath]

I have a drill doctor. I’m not sure if the wheel inside will sharpen carbide.

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

When you can figure out how the average machinist can enlarge the so called clearance holes in 123 blocks (other than edm) you’ll become a world wide hero.

[@shopandmath]

Thank you for commenting Ray

[@MAZEMIND]

Subscribed

[@raysfix]

Thank you

[@georgew.kreideriii4033]

You were drilling the shank part of the special drill bit. Almost all shanks are softer than the sharpened end. They temper them this way so they will have some give when drilling and will no break as easily. That said where you were drilling was not as hard! You would have to use a diamond bit to drill the other end!

[@shopandmath]

I think you have an email mixed up with a file they keep the handle or tang end soft so that it doesn’t break under pressure