How To Drywall Metal Stud Framing

[@ConstructionKronies]

🚧 Wanna See More? Check out this playlist: bit.ly/ExpertFramingLessons

[@meagaindave2049]

Nice work, Chris. For those who may not know nor noticed, always put your toe at the bottom of the T-square while using it. It keeps the bowing of the metal to a minimum. And, yes, drywallers here in the States call it a "router" vs "drywall cutout tool." 😉🍻👍

[@ConstructionKronies]

Yes bro! Great point, plus I run my thumb along it to keep it tight to the sheet! 💪🙏

[@devon2981]

Hey buddy, having a good time watching your install video. I’m a commercial taper and painter, so the drywall is really important to me. I wish that everyone over here payed as much attention to detail as you do.

[@ConstructionKronies]

Appreciate that! I'm actually happy that tens of thousands of other guys are out there trying to learn more too. It's a good sign. 👍

[@onebleachpiece956]

This video has helped a lot man 😁. Do I know where to start, as soon as the framing portion of it is finished? I always have trouble trying to figure out which wall to start from (the building has exterior walls), but after that, everything falls into place

[@ConstructionKronies]

Right on bro. Yeah we will start on the exterior wall, tie in floaters and if there is insulation we try to make it so for example, a long hallway with rooms we do the inside first then you can fly down the hallway and insulate, then we will go every other room so again insulate two walls a room. Hope that makes sense.

[@all-starjumppartyrentalsan65]

Hi. I enjoy watching your channel. I am going to start drywall a commercial insulated concrete form (ICF) building. I was wondering if you recommend installing the sheets horizontally or vertically? The ceiling slopes from about 28’ to 26’ Same question for the metal stud framing in the building. Those walls are 12-24’ tall. Also what do you think is a fair price for finishing the drywall to a level 4 finish? Keep up the great work 11:21

[@ConstructionKronies]

Hey friend, that's awesome man thanks! I really like stand ups, and lay downs (horizontal) can be very useful as well. Thr most important thing is to have the right staggering from front to back of the wall, and on laydown at 32" min butt joints land. Is the entire building ICF? Did they frame / furr it out with steel stud? If so do stand ups (vertical), wood lay down, also in areas it makes more sense for taping like in bathrooms, so you only have 1 joint at the middle, ceiling and corners. Hope that helps!

[@ConstructionKronies]

And install drywall @ $0.60 and tape $0.50 / sf + $2.00 / lf for any corners, returns, plastic(trimtek)

[@all-starjumppartyrentalsan65]

Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to answer everyones questions!@@ConstructionKronies

[@RaymondGettler723]

Thank you for all the videos that you make. I feel good every single time I watch your videos. I feel like I'm actually being productive instead of just brainlessly scrolling through foolish things. Thank you again. Keep growing.

[@ConstructionKronies]

Bro! Best comment ever! Thank you!

[@RaymondGettler723]

@@ConstructionKronies I appreciate you brother it's the truth.

[@customcraftsbybruceslaton4872]

Another video I would like to see, is how to build a TV shelf into the metal stud framing before sheetrock is put up. I plan on putting a permanent shelf in both bedrooms and the living room.

[@ConstructionKronies]

You are in luck! I have an entire series coming on interior home renovations. You will see how I build those shelves in the first videos. I am just waiting for spring to actually come and the weather to warm up. I'd say a month tops.

[@michaelarciniega9572]

How’s it going brotha do you stagger ur screws in the joints or is it preference?

[@ConstructionKronies]

Hey my man, it's going well, hope the same or better for you. I would say preference. I screw the bevel joints every 1 foot and usually keep the screws side by side. For the butt joints stay an inch up/down.

[@jacksondrumfoster]

So i’ve got a diy project coming up that involves framing a metal stud wall up against an existing wall, with drywall on both sides. Any tips for possibly framing and drywalling one side on the ground and standing it up?

[@ConstructionKronies]

Yes bro, remember to square it before drywall, measure corner to corner and make sure the number is the same both ways, use two screws in the top and bottom track through the end studs. The concrete or floor may not be level check that first and then get your measurements from the high side and you may need to use shims when standing it up. Then just drywall the back side, stand the wall up and.you can also screw through the brown side of the drywall into the studs of the other wall with 1-7/8" or 2" screws. Once it's up drywall the inside.

[@leecarey2516]

Question: The stud to bottom plate is below the dry wall and won’t interfere with it. But, the stud to top plate screw would seem to interfere with the dry wall lying flat against the metal. How do you ensure the drywall is flat top to bottom against the metal stud?

[@ConstructionKronies]

Use the wafer head framing screws and you'll be all good. The sheets are beveled toward the middle of the sheets, countersink the drywall screws just enough not to break the paper but in enough to cover with mud. This is a non issue, the sheets won't pop out with the wafer head screws. The drywall screws are bugle head not to be confused.

[@RanchoCaliBoy]

What kind of screws do you use when framing on metal?

[@ConstructionKronies]

#8x1/2" Philip head wafer screws. You can get them fine tip for light gauge and self drilling tip for heavy.

[@budmonk2819]

Thank you. I'm using metal studs in my basement and every time I try to use the self-drilling screw with an impact drill, it does not go through as easily because the stud is flimsy. There is a gap between the stud and the wall and the flimsiness is driving me crazy.

[@ConstructionKronies]

That's because your using the wrong screw, you need the black phosphate screws for light gauge steel. They have pointy ends. Hope that helps bro! Also you can use carrying channel, install it every 4' or in the middle knockouts of your wall tighten it up.

[@stevez3152]

A drywall screw gun works much better...hope your basement turned out well

[@MXb7R]

Which drywall gun would be the best for installing sheetrock on outside walls with heavy gauge studs and track?

[@ConstructionKronies]

I use the Hilti 4500 and 5000 both guns are great. I highly recommend the Hilti.

[@delorenwhite3411]

I'm getting back into the drywall business after 15 years it seems like a lot has changed. I will be following you. 6:16

[@ConstructionKronies]

Appreciate that! Anything I can do to help!

[@customcraftsbybruceslaton4872]

do you use regular Drywall Screws? If not, what kind do you use?

[@ConstructionKronies]

I do but regular may mean something different to you. For single layer we use 1-1/4" regular for light gauge and self tapers for heavy gauge. You also need to get screws made specific for wood or steel.

[@danielroberts7627]

I do the same metal stud/drywall work that you are demonstrating here. Very informative video! I think you explained everything very well man. Just curious though, we always stagger each sheet by a foot or so, every other sheet we stand up. I.e., stand up a twelve, then an eleven, the back to a twelve, etc…. Just curious if you do that? Or maybe it doesn’t get topped out? Or maybe it gets a ceiling? Awesome video man, not knocking anything, just genuinely curious! Keep up the great videos!

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thanks my man. Yeah some guys stagger the sheets like that but I don't really know why. When. If we lay down sheets yes stagger at least 32" but stand-ups are designed for steel stud specific and are staggered from either side of the wall. I think that some regions may specify you to do that I don't know for sure but I've heard of this before. Thanks again👍

[@danielroberts7627]

@@ConstructionKronies appreciate your reply! Like i said before, keep up the great videos man! We always stagger our seems…..whether it single layer, double layer or triple layer. Double layer, 5/8 drywall for fire rating…. 3 layers is for sounds….movie theaters. Inspector will never let us get away with stacked seems!! Love the info you are providing! Keep it up man!

[@adambomb7331]

So you prefer a router over a drywall cutout tool?

[@ConstructionKronies]

haha we call them drywall routers up here in Canada but yes I like the cut out tool, I have the Hilti SCO! haha good shit bro!

[@caring-assoul_]

Why do the existing surrounding walls not have the horizontal metal bracing running through the studs, what’s the reason behind that?

[@ConstructionKronies]

I think you mean the furring wall, sometimes those are against the base building demising walls and are for plumbing and electrical so they ask us to leave it out. All the other walls get it every 4'.

[@IssacBailey-zm7bq]

What screws are you using?

[@ConstructionKronies]

1-1/4" drywall screws

[@Z-add]

How many sheets of drywall do you install in one working day?

[@ConstructionKronies]

The goal is 80, the most I've ever done is 120 in one day, with 1 helper. If you can do 50 minimum that is what companies would want from their workers.

[@rixxky499]

Do not screw in the seam until the next sheet is screwed in place tight to the lead sheet. That way it can't protrude inhibiting the next sheet to sit tight..

[@ConstructionKronies]

Yes bro! I go back after the section of wall is all tied in to screw off the bevels. I only screw in 2' 4' and 6' with 4 in the bottom then go back 1' in the bevel and 16" in the field.

[@gregsweller]

Why do you insist on 1/2” space on the bottom and not willing to use the 5/8” drywall to space it? Great video.

[@ConstructionKronies]

If you use the 5/8" try to use the bevel of it. You will notice using the 1/2" makes it a lot easier when screwing into the bottom track, never miss. More misses when you use the 5/8", especially on concrete. The other reason is for caulking and fire stop. You ideally want 1/4" to 3/8" for that, more than enough for any liquids to spill, you don't want it to get sucked up by the drywall. Thanks man!

[@damngumadedis2136]

What is a simple definition of deflection?

[@ConstructionKronies]

It allows for 3/4" movement up and down. This gives you advantages like using standups. Contraction and expansion. All buildings move, especially new ones still settling in. In places with winter too.

[@Andy.Fujimoto]

What size Olfa knife do you use?

[@ConstructionKronies]

I use the 1" so I can use it for anything like itch as well. The small olfa is flimsy to me.

[@Andy.Fujimoto]

@@ConstructionKronies we use single fixed blades.

[@JohnSmendrovac]

Fantastic work

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thank you very much, thanks for the comment 👍

[@leronjames3346]

I always enjoy your videos Thanks for making them

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thanks man! Means a lot, I enjoy making them and it makes me happy to hear that!

[@johnp4871]

Wow man. You're extremely professional. I'd be proud to be half as good as you lol.

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thanks bro, just practice is all👍

[@GoFishOffice]

This was great!

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thanks!!

[@timleary9355]

Awesome! Thanks Chris! 👍

[@ConstructionKronies]

Thanks my man!!

[@JohnnyBlueJeans55]

Dude, you would have to kick it in the ass to make it in the Chicago District Council of Carpenters Union. The expectation is 100 sheets minimum, 4x12x5/8” for a two man crew. Lock that screw gun in the on position and go to town. Two guys, one cut and carry, the other guy runs screws.

[@ConstructionKronies]

No, I don't do that shit anymore. I respect it very much and know the hustle but it's too much. 100 sheets of 5/8" each day is a ridiculous ask for anyone, it's supposed to be 40 per person and that's on a gravy run. When your doing units like condos it gets even harder. Plus the unions here have lowered thier rates, not me, I charge 60 to 90 cents per square foot for board when the unions are paying 22 cents, no thanks. Asking that much is dangerous, people aren't machines and the quality will suffer no? But mad respect to you !

[@giovanyhernandez573]

Amazing video thanks!

[@ConstructionKronies]

Cool man glad you liked it 💪

[@rixxky499]

Had a supervisor tell me I couldn't use a drywall screw gun to screw drywall to metal studs. A big argument ensued, I threatened to walk off the job. Guys a wacko

[@ConstructionKronies]

Sure you can use a drywall gun we do all the time. Cheers bro!

[@davidworldwide6111]

I’m definitely going to need your help bro

[@ConstructionKronies]

Sure, anytime. I do almost daily live streams from site and always answer the comments. There are other ways to reach me by email and on Discord or membership services if needed. But I always say explore the free stuff first I bet you can find the answers just by watching my playlists. Appreciate that's bro!

[@Z-add]

Isn't their a screw feeder for the drill.

[@ConstructionKronies]

There is yes, I've used them in the past but I prefer using my hand. For certain things for sure I could justify it but not for the stuff I do.

[@greaterbw]

Can you come to Kansas City and do drywall and framing for me 😂🙏🏽

[@ConstructionKronies]

I wish! Would love too, catch a Chiefs game, heck yes! I can't tho, not yet anyway!

[@Sohal_entertainment]

brother the time you took to screw that sheet, i would finish the job

[@ConstructionKronies]

Dude, we are filming here. Did you watch more than first 2 minutes or what?

[@anthonycruz5446]

NO Glue?

[@ConstructionKronies]

Negative. Never need it on steel stud. The only time you use glue is in residential wood framing so you don't have to use screws in the field. You still need 2 screws in the field and perimeter.

[@bdubs8620]

Looks like you’re fastening the hard side first… if framer knew what he was doing layout was pulled from soft side ..😮

[@ConstructionKronies]

You can screw in either side first just don't counter sink the hard side first. We call that back boarding very common practice. On heavy gauge steel it doesn't matter the studs won't twist, it's more for a light gauge studs to screw soft side in first. If that makes sense!

[@bdubs8620]

@@ConstructionKronies you’re very slow

[@jeffwhite3822]

Why didn't you stagger your butt joints? if it's a finished wall they should be.

[@ConstructionKronies]

No man, never ever stagger your butt joints that's a complete and total myth. This is steel stud and another reason it's superior to wood.

[@jeffwhite3822]

@@ConstructionKronies I guess all the inspectors in St. louis city and St. louis county don't know what they are talking about then.

[@ScullyPop]

Beastmode

[@ConstructionKronies]

Dude that emoji is the emoji I've ever seen 🔥🔥🔥