How To Edge Plywood - You've been doing it WRONG !

How To Edge Plywood. In this video Rob shows you the right way to edge plywood with a hardwood banding to make your project look awesome. Rob clears away all the misinformation about how to edge plywood and teaches the right way.
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[@Tool-Meister]

ROB, Nearly 10 years ago I took one of your 1-day classes covering Plane Restoration and Hand-Cut Dovetails at the Woodcraft Store in Tigard, Oregon. That introduction got me off my duff, and into my shop where I mastered both skills to the point virtually every project is "touched" by one or more hand planes and I knock out "sufficient" hand-cut dovetails for a wide range of projects.. I just want to say you keep getting better, improving your communication skills, and providing USEFUL material both live and here on KZbin. Thanks sir for sharing your skills. It's often said, those who can't do, teach. That hooey! In order to teach, you must have mastered the topic. You sir are surly a master of what you teach. May the Lord be with you and yours. From Hillsboro, OR and most sincerely, Steve

[@jodybanks5344]

He’s deadly accurate with a plane steady hands . Old timers learn from a man like him. Pleasure sitting in and learning more about ply wood than I ever had in my 45 years . Thanks

[@CW1116]

You are a great wood worker and teacher. I feel like a novice after watching you with your specialized equipment and knowledge of wood, glue, tools and techniques. Thank you for the multiple lessons and info. Your camera operator is top notch, also.

[@coachk7674]

That was an outstanding video, It brought back memories of high school wood shop and Mr. Knolls, without a doubt the teacher who left the impression of effort matters and especially when working with finish wood. Thank you Rob.

[@leeclement7716]

New to your channel and I couldn't turn this episode off! I learned a lot in just the few minutes I took to watch. I like how you explain everything your doing and why you do it. I especially learned a lot about planing. I'd really like to Learn from you in person! keep up the great work!

[@robertvelovski1192]

Really enjoy your work and teaching Rob. When I was an apprentice here in Australia, back in the day the master joiners that I worked with taught me that by forcing the glue in the end grain with your finger a few times it will fill the end grain and the glue will hold.

[@RonFinlay1]

Among the best videos and knowledge on the net. Fabulous - skill, experience, and quality. Bravo

[@YellowPinkie]

This is a guy that is confident in his abilities and knows why he is confident. Great viewing!

[@Masso1973]

Man, learning 20 new things a minute make for light giddiness and a lot of ideas flashing through your head for future projects. Absolutely great video, exceptional teacher, thank you!

[@mikerobbins1292]

Downright vertiginous am I!

[@rolotomassi1333]

That plane blade on wood is one of my favorite sounds in the world

[@DrMarkFosterEdDGCDF]

Excellent job Mr. Cosman. Thank you for sharing. Using a plane is at the top of my teaching list when I'm working with beginners. I recently had my 5 year old grandson working on an edge of pine using a 4 in plane. He loved it and actually got pretty good at it. Thank you!

[@travismdunlapbluecollarcow3301]

Rob, I have been watching your dvd's and video demos for years for ideas and for learning more about good woodworking. I built my first dovetail tool chest after several videos of yours and practicing handcutting finger joints and then dovetails in scraps until finally cutting dovetails for my first DT tool chest. I was extremely proud. Not perfect but it turned out great. that was years ago. I messed up sold it to a client for a hope chest for good amount. Lately I built four desk boxes with two drawers per desk box and used more of a power tool approach and semi mass production method. Afterward, the desks were horrible but, I have decided I am going to take my time and not go for mass sales lol for the price benefit. I deep down want to start over on all the desks. But that's just me. I enjoy and appreciate calm better quality hand and powertool work not based on "how fast can I make 4 t0 8 of these." So thank you for reminding me why I like to build furniture and do woodworking; for the great peace and relaxation that comes after a nicely completed project to be proud of. Sincerely, Travis from Mississippi, United States

[@marsian6034]

Yes, Rob! I do like your work and your style of teaching... and this new video format, too. Thank you!

[@alessandrosuppini943]

Thanks Rob, I’ve learnt a lot from watching your video, really like your style man! 👍

[@pauldugas4952]

Every minute of this video is a learning opportunity. Thanks Rob!

[@cdgregOG]

I appreciate your attention to detail and sharing your knowledge with others

[@MrGunner296]

Thanks Rob - I never would have guessed the MDF core would outperform the laminated plywood on an edge joint. Very cool!

[@Highstreeter6]

I didn't think I'd be staying tuned in for the full half hour, but I was riveted by it all. Every minute was a gem. Learned a lot; well done.

[@marcinwasniowski5477]

Same, now I'm grepping online store for new wood planer I can afford :D

[@chubbicheecook9629]

Block plane

[@timbirch4999]

​@@chubbicheecook96293/8" no.2 carving gouge!

[@hansdybka1331]

i always enjoy a detailed explanation on a subject...good viewing

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Thanks for your helpful hints. Always learn something by watching your videos. I have done the edge treatment for many years, woodworking now for over 65 years, using the tape method, and have found it works every time for me. Also on edges that might have a heavier use, table sides, I use biscuits spaced every 2-3 inches, as well. This is like using a spine but does not cause the possibility of misalignment.

[@coalbuster]

Thanks for making this. Glad to see someone who appreciates the aesthetic importance of the "sharp line." I've seen too many guys make beautiful pieces out of wood only to sand everything down at the end until it looks like a Fisher-Price toy.

[@FreedomMath]

Well said!!!!

[@dirkroggeveen5764]

Thanks for sharing this Rob, learning all the time, thanks to you :-) great job!!!

[@eldonbrown9855]

thanks for imparting your knowledge about woodworking and tool maintenance. I will be watching your videos often.

[@westsailole]

Whow, what a skill! This guy knows what he is doing. This is woodworking on a high level. Entertaining and very educational. Subscribed of course.

[@rolandsimpson1781]

Good addition for using masking tape for gluing on edge banding. Works well for quick repairs. I like the green 3M tape because it stretches just enough for extra tension.

[@AffordBindEquipment]

I was going to mention this and then saw your comment. True masking tape stretches a LOT and makes for great clamping. I have found it hard to find. I also use the green tape. If you sand the top edges of the banding, it will keep that sharp edge from cutting the tape when it's stretched over the top.

[@MrSoorajsurya]

Great content . Detailed in a manner that's technical- always better at sending the right message across. Btw- here in India, very few woodworkers have access to clamps; at most, you may find C-clamps used sparesly. We tend to use masking tapes a lot more. It could be for edge banding plywood with wood strips or pvc edge bands or even hdp laminate. Wrt wooden strips, most woodworkers would hammer pin nails post gluing; plane the overhang and then cover the nails during the process of polishing. FYI for anyone interested.✌️

[@ianblackman1953]

Totally agree with your view in radius. Great work.

[@nunya7065]

Thank you for explaining that. I learned something today about glueing wood together and the way the grain runs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Have a great day.

[@remkojerphanion4686]

I am in no way an expert on woodwork, so you may disregard my 2 cents, but here it is anyway: I have found it beneficial to use a vacuum cleaner to clear dust particles from MDF edges and end grain of other wood sorts, so that glue can get into every tiny nook and cranny. Thanks for the video by the way!

[@earlfinn5489]

Sound advice!

[@DMarkAgostinelli]

If you think about it deeper. You may realize that you don’t have to do that with the saw dust. The reason why: saw dust acts like a cement. When it makes contact with the glue, it becomes saturated and sort of joins and mixes with the glue and turns into a sort of cement with the glue. Actually making the joint harder.

[@alfredo4988]

This was the best presentation of useful information I have ever seen on youtube or any where else. You did an outstanding job on the presentation, so I would have to believe your finished products are of a very high quality. Thank you.

[@ericksonjustinAK]

I don't have the space or time for woodworking, but I have time for this video. Ahhhhh something so cathartic about woodworking and your teaching and voice hits the spot during these crazy times. Thanks.

[@peterblake548]

I have always used my male & female router bit set on the router table and have never been impressed with the results...never again. Rob, you are a great teacher thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@samiches2008]

I always enjoy your teaching style, Rob! Practically every second of each of your videos is filled with important details and void of fluff. You offer "no BS" methods from a seasoned pro, yet without the cantankerous attitude that pops out from experts when someone questions their methods or offers an alternate...well, maybe a "teeny-wee-bit" cantankerous, which is perfect in my book. I like that you have extensively used the methods you teach instead of being like many of the KZbin videos that offer the "BEST" or "RIGHT" way to do something, only to find out it was the first time they did something and just happened to make a video of it. I like that you are willing to accept new methods and that you test those methods against your standards. Do you think you'll use the masking tape method on your own pieces in the future?

[@CharlesReiche]

I use biscuits to index my edges. A great reason to use a low utilization tool in the shop.

[@urwholefamilydied]

Wow... I feel privileged to watch you work in your shop. That oak edge you did was masterful.

[@garrisonaw]

Why in the world would anyone downvote this video? Rob gives an enormous amount of useful information in half an hour.

[@unnecessaryexprmnt]

Great video and considerations for the job. Love your planing work. Of course, I always say, if you can’t hide it, make it a feature. So for that reason I typically make my edge bands a different species wood (like an ipe band on maple). Then people appreciate the beautiful color contrast, and don’t think it’s a hiding mechanism.

[@mcsenn]

Good idea, you can even carve out some of the main plywood, and let the opper ander lower vener stay, so that you can make your dark or red wood go in between. Looks amazing!

[@efrancis19]

Great video, as always. The masking tape trick is commonly used by luthiers to install purfling and binding to guitar bodies. It actually works really well.

[@dannyh.7490]

And it works better than those stretchy band clamps that Rockler sells ! What a joke those are !

[@paulrobinson5833]

You don't need a lot of pressure if pieces are fitted properly,overclamping can squeeze too much glue out.

[@ghadman1061]

You got skills man, love the shop. Brings back memories.

[@chrisammann4041]

Rob, what a pleasure it was to watch your video, and on a topic I didn't realise I had an interest in until I started watching! I love your style of explanation - knowledgeable, clear, detailed and analytical. Subscribed.

[@jimc4731]

I would like to see you do the edge band on the cross cut edge. JIM

[@crustyoldfart]

It's always a joy to watch a master craftsman at work, and there is no exception to that here. I would say that the thought I take away after watching this one is that it is more a master class in the use of hand planes. The ones in use are clearly of the highest quality - advanced design and superbly finished. This makes me realize what a hacker I am, since I don't have the skill required to sharpen the blades, the knowledge to make the fine adjustment, nor the skill to apply the cut. As a result I have for years now used a farrier's rasp for my planing needs, and smaller rasps down to rifflers where necessary, I find these tools are fit for purpose in anything I have attempted so far. That said, I mean no disrespect to what is on show in the video - quite the reverse in fact.

[@leehaelters6182]

Harold L POTTS, it’s a good ole boy can publicly admit he uses a farriers rasp instead of a plane. No insecurity in your character!

[@crustyoldfart]

@@leehaelters6182 Thanks Lee I'll take that as compliment albeit a possible back-handed one. But you're right I build things for pleasure and see no need to emulate the exacting standards and methods of masters in the craft.

[@leehaelters6182]

@@crustyoldfart, was a trifle snarky, I'll admit, but absolutely sincere about strong character!

[@738polarbear]

Using a plane by no means makes someone a master I am not being critical when I say you must be pretty inept if you cannot sharpen a plane blade.

[@crustyoldfart]

@@738polarbear I take it that the remark about being inept is directed at me. I think ' lazy ' might be more appropriate that ' inept '. What none of you could know is that my use of a rasp in favour of a plane grew out of building model ships - an activity which routinely uses files, rasps and rifflers for the fine detail necessary in small parts, and where use of a plane would be impossible. O and BTW there is a big difference in the skill sets required between the different activities of sharpening a plane blade, setting up the plane, and using the plane.

[@kettch42]

Great information. I value your experience based advice. 10/10 will watch more.

[@hudacekf]

Yet again another phenomenal video, thank you Mr. Cosman!

[@HBSuccess]

Rob I use something sold by Luthiery suppliers as “binding tape” on thin edge bands. It’s a lot more reliable and provides way more clamping pressure than masking tape. I’m sure there are cheaper sources for the same stuff.

[@seaotter52]

Perfect timing. Getting ready to do some plywood work that will need edging. Going to use the tape method because length. Please tell your friend that it's a winner idea!

[@guitarchitectural]

lee valley sells veneering tape that has more spring (and grip) than painters tape - it's all I've used for edge banding for 15 years and it has always worked perfectly - on long pieces i use a domino (if it's around) or dowelmax for alignment

[@seaotter52]

@@guitarchitectural Great info. Thanks

[@Nico-bu6bj]

I've been using masking tape since I was an apprentice more than 20 years ago. Every shipwright here does it that way.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I knew you were getting ready to edge band so I released this video for you!!!!

[@seaotter52]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Project turned out great. Thank you

[@theothermarshal]

Excellent content, as usual. I appreciate your continued pursuit of higher quality finish products and this video is especially helpful to me. Thanks!

[@brianfalls5894]

Rob, many thanks for a very informative video. You're a good teacher

[@mbgoldberg]

Rob, thanks for the info. I was expecting to see you do a rub joint to get the glue to get tacky quicker.I get bored quickly when holding it in place so I rub the pieces back and forth to set up quicker.

[@kennethtalbott2233]

me too.

[@epop3014]

"Can't get this pencil to work..." love it.

[@Silent-G]

I love your videos! I always learn so much. Keep up the great work!

[@ronyoung9920]

Thanks for taking the time. I built some pine plywood cabinets and did the similar edge banding. I used bessey edge clamps to hold in place. I’ll definitely try the masking tape next time. Ron.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

It seems to work great

[@ottomaselli7762]

Hi Rob. Nice video !! How much time should i wait for the glue to set , before planing ?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

on edge banding I would wait 30-45 minutes

[@jayherde0]

Rob - would turning the clamp end for end help keep the glued strip from 'walking' with the screw on the clamp?

[@leehaelters6182]

Jay Herde, a good way yes, as long as you have a caul that allows you to center the pressure, but then that is more to juggle.

[@andrewmccauley5568]

I love your edge clamp. So amazing.

[@georgevalenzuela2489]

Great video Rob! Thanks for sharing!

[@TeamProsperity]

Nicely done Rob. One thing I’ll mention that I do is to size the end grain. I mix like a 10 to 1 mixture of tight bond and water and brush that onto the end grain and let is set for 30 minutes. This will seal the fibers and prevent the end grain from sucking in the glue and then I glue as usual. Seems to give me an exceptional joint. what do you think?

[@woodroofguy]

I

[@johnkirwan762]

"Get out your glue spreader", "don't be a wood miser"- two gems of advice 😂

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

maybe we should start a quote book?

[@bmedicky]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Put 'em on a T-shirt!

[@jameswatters9592]

the one I particularly like is: " it might fool a novice "

[@thomasweaver905]

Excellent techniques, enjoyable to watch a great craftsman. Well worth the watch.

[@DIYerGuy]

Those were great demonstrations on how to edge-band. What was especially interesting is how the cross sections of the plywood don't hold glue as well as the MDF because of the edge-grain of the inner cross-sectional layers, and the proof that the MDF is stronger. And I especially appreciated that there was no distracting music being played at all so that the focus was on what you're saying and doing - this is so important and so many videos make the mistake of adding totally unnecessary and distracting music. Thanks, I've just subscribed.

[@markhenrychristensen]

I honestly thought "Boring... why does it even come up as a suggestion!?!?". Boy, was I wrong... not only did I learn a lot, but I was quite entertained, and guess what!?!? It was so good, I subscribed too!! :)

[@larryschweitzer4904]

I've heard the thing about not using too much pressure in clamping. Where did that come from? Old wives tale? Not that a lot of pressure is needed but can you use too much? To answer that question I did some testing. Material, hard maple (reputed to be more difficult to glue.) I fished a piece out of the scrap barrel, no idea how long since it was machined. The faces were just as they had come out of the molder, no prep. 1"x 2" x 6" I put Original Titebond on one face, put the parts between two 1" pieces of machined flat steel. Using a 20 ton hydraulic press put the full force of the press (40,000 lb.) (3,333 lb/sq. inch) on and left it to dry. Two days later I cut a V notch in the end so it ended directly on the glue line. Back to the press. Using a steel wedge in the notch I put pressure on until failure. The wood failed, not the glue line. I had actually made several samples and the result was always the same. I had intentionally violated everything I had heard about proper gluing. Stock was not freshly prepared, was a machined surface, not dead flat. Glue applied to only one face, extreme over pressure. I made sure that the test force had been applied in such a way that it was acting on the glue line.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

wow....that was a good test. Well then maybe we cannot starve a joint of glue?

[@thomasfoster7100]

doesn't the machined surface imply more pockets for the glue to hide in? Cool test, it just seems to me like those rules of thumb are for opposing issues.

[@larryschweitzer4904]

@@thomasfoster7100 I think there are three kinds of machined surfaces. Those that are produced by blades like planers, jointers, routers and molders. The rotary action will always produce a scalloped surface. The worst thing about them is the pounding action that presses the surface, crushing the fibers and producing a sort of polish. No tool is ever absolutely sharp, at least not for long. A hand plane or the powered equivalent will produce an extremely clean edge. But that assumes absolute control so there is no side to side variation. A well setup shooting board comes very close. The next best is a straight line rip saw with the appropriate blade. The blade has a shearing action and the chain feed system is pretty good at holding the work. Sanding could work but there are a lot of variables. Glues like Original Titebond will tolerate up to about a .004" gap (US Forest Service Lab) Epoxy requires a gap. Plastic resin glues, urea formaldehyde and Resorcinol all set hard and are brittle when very thick. Resorcinol is absolutely water proof. Urethane glues are very good but I hate the mess created by the expansion as they absorb moisture. Titebond3 has one major failing. It degrades when subject to moderate heating, heating from the sun....

[@leehaelters6182]

Larry, great research and experimentation, thanks for that. Your conclusion seems quite valid, but two points: this may not apply to an overly tight tenon, I suppose, which might still scrape off the glue ahead of it as it is forced home. And regarding edgebanding of ply or mdf, there is the sponge effect to consider, that is, the deforming of the glueline by overly compressing the substrate in too few clamped spots.

[@larryschweitzer4904]

@@leehaelters6182 Tenons should always have the glue applied to both the mortise and the tenon to avoid what you are talking about. Gluing to the edge of ply & MDF are both sort of problematic. The spongy short fiber nature of MDF edges isn't ideal for gluing but for the purpose of a non structural edgeband insignificant. On ply you are gluing 1/2 the area to end grain, also not ideal but again for an edgeband not of much importance. The trouble with porous surfaces like MDF & end grain is the rate that glue soaks in and is no longer wet, be quick! As for over compressing, if you mean structurally damaging it, true. But that's a totally different issue and only likely to occur with relatively thin bands. A bit of common sense should be applied. To illustrate the irrelevance of the need for lots of pressure consider the use of rubbed joints. Rubbed joints on parallel surfaces don't require clamp pressure to preform well. Some glues will tolerate up to .004" of glue line thickness. Others will be brittle at that thickness, Epoxy needs some clearance, try to never clamp it tight.

[@territodude]

Hey, great video. I enjoy that you are to the point and no BS. Also, I would like to commend you on your audio, so many people don't have that part down at all and your audio stays level and easy to listen to, thanks!

[@mouradbelkas598]

Thank you for the tips, greatly appreciated

[@Super--Star]

I love the layered look of Plywood edges, I guess I'm watching the wrong video ;)

[@kevinwilliams8581]

Dude, I came here to say just that! A good quality high-ply plywood edge looks great when sanded smooth and finished with a stain and poly or the like. I would never cover it with banding. If the application requires the edge to not look like plywood, don't use plywood.

[@Super--Star]

@@kevinwilliams8581 Exactly, just use MDF.

[@geoffhubbard7815]

One suggestion that I do; when placing clamps, use the adjustable end on the longer board; it stops from pulling the work to one side, even if the clamp foot sticks and twists. (Because geometry. :-) )

[@independent900]

Good tip, thanks!

[@edwardromana]

Just love your work bench with the peg clamp

[@BEKenna]

I'm not a woodworker - I really enjoyed and found your vid, entertaining, educational and well done. Thanks. Brian

[@dukeengine1339]

This time I thought, reading the title: “this is not going to be that much interesting to me, but let’s watch it anyway...” What a stupid thought... I really found it very interesting! It will help me a lot. What about a veneering surface video, when you don’t have a press to be a pro?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Great idea Duke. I will tell COL Luthey to add it to the video list

[@darwinanderson7401]

RobCosman.com SAAASSsAZMSK SIEZMIM

[@JackSampierJr]

RobCosman.com yu ty

[@Helliconia54]

I have a ts16.set up for cruising, i have lots of ohotos but not inyoutube.all on facebook

[@ThePremiumChicken]

Someone showed me that putting a bit of salt will keep the glue surfaces from sliding around. But this is a great tutorial. Thank yoj

[@patsullivan9399]

Some glue manufacturers have warned that salt corrodes glue.

[@gastank43]

@@patsullivan9399 Some salt manufacturers have said that glue taste better with salt. Just sprinkle some sand in it instead i guess. Probably works the same.

[@ssn608]

@@gastank43 if so... NOT playground sand (rounded) but rather paver sand, I would think. Paver sand is a sharp sand, meaning that under a microscope the sand has sharp corners and edges instead of being rounded like a good playground sand.

[@bryanbrett6037]

You know.....it's really not that difficult....just give it and be done. If you pay attention to what you're doing , while you're doing it , it's really quite easy..

[@bryanbrett6037]

Glue it! Damn I hate spellcheck

[@scottwillis5434]

Great video! Very clear pronunciation, no annoying background music, clear command of the subject matter, clear and easy to follow demonstrations. Wondering whether MDF core shelving would sag more, less, or the same as hardwood plywood?

[@steptoenson8285]

Hi Rob, must admit that having used all sorts of edgebanders on both shopfitting and residential projects. Anything from a 3mm thick fore edge will come out perfectly with the masking tape trick. I also use the masking tape trick when mitering cubes and other compound mitred bits and pieces.

[@danielgeng2306]

Good morning Rob, actually Ammed’s idea would compliment your method as well. Put a couple pieces of tape to hold it in place while you clamp it ! Thanks for another great video ... ps I had a feeling your method wouldn’t include a roll of pre glued edging and an iron ;)

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

thanks for watching and commenting

[@danielgeng2306]

RobCosman.com of course, life is a little busier than a few months ago, but I still wear the tee shirts every day and PHP is still my cause. God Bless ~ thanks for taking the time to do the videos !

[@jobersudyobodou9362]

I use hockey tape, the kind that you use for tying on shin pads. It's stretchy, so you also get some holding force to press the edge banding onto the plywood edge.

[@leehaelters6182]

@@jobersudyobodou9362, Hockey Tape! Right up Rob's alley!!

[@Psychlist1972]

Most of the plywood problems (like voids, thickness inconsistency, dips, etc.) are solved with Baltic/Russian birch. It costs a bit more, but I got so sick of the standard "cabinet grade" plywood from the big-box stores. FWIW, I hate click-bait video titles. I've never seen anyone edging plywood "wrong", and it's not something you even addressed. I personally think it's better to avoid that part of the title, even though KZbin does tend to optimize for that kind of junk. I will say that not using a riving knife on your table saw during rip cuts counts as "wrong" in my book :) Nice super-sharp hand-plane on the shooting board, though. Regardless, I enjoyed the video.

[@silentscribes]

I still have voids all the time in that precious "Baltic birch" your speak of. Referring to Baltic birch like its all the same grade is like calling all circular saws skill saws.

[@Psychlist1972]

​@@silentscribes "I still have voids all the time in that precious "Baltic birch" your speak of. Referring to Baltic birch like its all the same grade is like calling all circular saws skill saws." Not sure why the condescending tone, or what you're actually purchasing that is full of voids, as I have never heard of Baltic/Russian Birch with the kind of voids we get from the box store plywood. I know it can have tiny knots in the inner veneers, and I guess if you hit one of those just right, you could have a small void. Nothing like what I have in regular ply, but could happen. Also, I have heard of a Chinese equivalent that does allow the typical voids and is sometimes mistakenly sold as "baltic birch". I buy B/BB birch in 4x8 sheets from a local plywood distributor. (Many people think Baltic/Russian birch is only sold in 5' sheets. The 9mm I have here has an origin of Kostroma, Russia clearly marked on the side, and came in a 4x8 sheet. I haven't looked at the stamp on the 15mm and 18mm I have here) It stays much flatter than anything I've ever bought from Home Depot/Lowes, has never had any voids or loose plugs (stuff I've bought in the retails stores has had enormous voids), and has thicker veneer. Local Home Depot / Lowes just refer to hardwood plywood that is "cabinet grade" and has birch on one side and maple on the other. They sub in various vendors all the time. The thickness vary across the sheets, and also on a single sheet. The veneers have weird overlaps that they deal with by sanding. It also turns into a ski jump rather quickly (due to how it's made and then how it is stored). It also has enormous voids and loose plugs. I have one right in front of me with a 2" wide void in the edge in the layer right under the veneer. A tall cabinet I built upstairs from 3/4" (nom) "cabinet grade" actually required bracing to keep it from bowing out so much. That was with a glued/screwed back, and a fixed shelf 2/3 the way up. It's just not good plywood for cabinetry. It took me a while to realize that. After almost two decades of using the retail stuff, trying various brands from different stores, and then paying way too much for cabinet-grade domestic plywood from another hardwood supplier, only to have similar issues, I'm glad to have finally found a supplier with good materials, and a consistent supply. They do have a minimum purchase amount ($250), and are only open for pickup 4 days a week, in the first half of the day, but were happy to work with me. The folks even put fresh cardboard down on my pickup bed and loaded it all for me. Even the lowest quality Baltic/Russian Birch I've bought from woodworking stores is better than the stuff I got from the big box stores. They just never had it in quantity. FWIW, I also tried ApplePly, but that price is pretty nuts for anything but art pieces. It costs 2x the Birch, which was already $30 more than the cabinet grade plywood sheets at Home Depot/Lowes. It looks fantastic, though.

[@HondoTrailside]

@@Psychlist1972 I have had baltic birch that has voids, usually the stuff is imperial. One side can have very neat "Dutchmen". Still can be very nice. The metric stuff or aircraft birch is immaculate. Another choice is marine ply, if it comes in cheaper, or if one wants the colour. With a few exceptions I hate MDF. I get that for the commercial guy it is a money maker, but plywood is a miracle wood product, while MDF is more like industrial waste, so I get to choose for my own uses. If one looks at plywood, and prices out what the equivalent venner would cost, not to mention the assembly, it is an incredible deal.

[@Psychlist1972]

@@HondoTrailside Are you counting the dutchman as a void? The B/BB stuff I have has those football-style patches on the BB side. But they are not voids. I could get even higher grade Baltic Birch, but for my use, the cost doesn't make sense. The B side is perfect inside cabinets, and no one ever sees the patches. There's another kind of patch that can be used (looks more like fingers than a football), that's a bit uglier, but I haven't seen that on any of the baltic I get. MDF can be a pain, IMO. That is, unless you get the water-resistant stuff. It's far more common in the UK/EU than in the US, but my plywood supplier also carries it. It paints much more nicely than the stuff from HD/Lowes, and as with the plywood, it's much more consistent. But still, it throws a ton of dust no matter how much dust collection I throw at it, and it's heavy AF, and I'm not getting any younger, so I try not to work with it all that much.

[@johntaylor1359]

Why has your voice changed so much.....it's deeper. Abso superb tutorial rob thanks

[@randykniebes5364]

THANKS for the detail for attaching the hardwood edge to the plywood. I don't have that great of a hand plane, but I got some great ideas and understanding of what I need to do to make that great edge...

[@davidrobins4025]

Beautiful work. Thanks for showing us how

[@kennethmiller2333]

Plywood is the concrete of carpentry. Not the prettiest (though it can be remarkably beautiful, just like ground-faced concrete can create a striking look), but strong and versatile.

[@midi510]

I've never seen MDF with veneer before. At first I wondered why he was calling it plywood.

[@timwelch175]

Hell, I've been at this quite a while, and I've never even HEARD of it or seen it in any stores. No voids is great and all, but MDF is not something I like playing with in my shop due to it being cured with formaldehyde.

[@midi510]

@@timwelch175 Better stay away from Aspartame. It turns to formaldehyde at 86° F, much lower than the human body temperature. Artificial sweeteners are basically neurotoxins and they really screw with your metabolism.

[@timwelch175]

@@midi510 I didn't know that. Thank you. I've steered clear most of my life just on flavor alone but I did not know that.

[@woodbeard9861]

watching u feels like that u are the inventor of woodwork! So helpful and nice to watch! Thank u!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

thanks but way too young!

[@Bogie3855]

Helpful as always Rob. Thanks.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Sure beats iron-on banding. That's for sure.

[@Timmermon63]

Thomas Russell detest iron on banding

[@salsachris5678]

I HAVE HAD MANY NIGHTMARES WITH VENEERED PLY BEING SO THIN IT ONLY TOOK THE SLIGHTEST TOUCH OF THE BLADE AND YOU WERE THROUGH . I EVENTUALLY STARTED SETTING THE BLADE AT A SLIGHT ANGLE SO IT FADED AWAY TO THE MIDDLE OF THE PLANE WHEN YOU VIEWED THE BLADE FROM THE FRONT END .AND THEN FINISHED THE FINAL LIP WITH A CABINET SCRAPER TO FINISH UP .

[@cliveramsbotty6077]

i'm not deaf

[@airgliderz]

Suggest removing your caps key.

[@738polarbear]

Does it really matter it's in capitals? What's wrong with all these Nancy boys complaining?

[@salsachris5678]

@@738polarbear i know ! i didnt notice caps lock was on and couldnt be arsed re doing it some people seem to get very stressed over nothing

[@roybailey9554]

You can always tell a real professional Carpenter, they are always open to others suggestions , at least give them a try anyway, best wishes Rob from the UK 🇬🇧 , and thank you for your videos , they are brilliant 👏 😊

[@letsmakeamillion]

love how you proved yourself right at the end

[@cowtowneric]

while I haven't been doing it wrong, I use 1/4" edge banding with the tape fastening all the time. , and rather than a router I use a lipping planer to get it down to a couple of thouu, and then use a hand scraper rather than a plane to finish it off flush. The fingernail test tells you when you're down to absolute flatness. I put tape on the non-cutting edge of the scraper to avoid marring the ply surface. . To me i't risk management...one pass with a block plane that is too aggressive and yer through the 1/64 veneer.on the ply

[@karryhardman8735]

I like a shave hook with a slight curve so the cutting edge curves up away from the plywood never touching it, coworker likes curved a scraper. Cut with the grain. Route the detail of you choice. Made 100's of cabinet doors this way.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Tip: Lift the plane slightly off the wood on the backstroke. It prevents blade wear by 50%.

[@jimschmitz4821]

Great Video, great technique, Great teacher!

[@jimbopreps8187]

Love the patches, former 3rd ID and 2nd ACR soldier

[@marekward6202]

I didn't really get this. I edge with many methods; mostly how the customer requests. . I was hoping to see how I might be doing it wrong. Guess I'm not who this video is aimed at.

[@gamesdean2621]

Just watched to find out I wasn’t doing it wrong. 🤣

[@alanreynolds5985]

Me neither. I feel cheated.

[@santetrisciuzzi3135]

@@alanreynolds5985 ⁷⁷⁷

[@mickenzie5863]

Yup. I was thinking, "Whatever gimmick he's got up his sleeve, I'm probably not going to change.". Turns out his "gimmick" is exactly my procedure.

[@steveiv9250]

Awesome tutorial Rob Thankyou , definitely worth subscribing to. Cheers 🍻

[@timdales8300]

Love that planning jig!!

[@user990077]

11:48 Hard to understand why some wood workers have a piece of furniture for a work bench. My split top workbench based upon Andre Roubo's classic design was built with Douglas fir 2 x 4's and 2 x 6's (milled on all sides to square things up). Paul Sellers makes a bench out of pine. It is not the end of the world if I accidentally drill a small hole or spill some stain on it.

[@ouodo]

Hard to understand? Let me help you with that; it looks nice and he'd like to continue working on it and keep it looking nice. Do you have some kind of problem with Rob doing what he wants in his life? I have a hard time understanding why guys like you feel the need to openly criticize others choices. What do you gain from typing your stupid little.comment on KZbin? Go back to your shitty workbench and get to work.

[@chrisjordan4210]

When you look at all of the tools you have, which is the one you use most of the time, might as well have it look as good as the planes and saws.

[@guitarchitectural]

It's a joinery bench - the entire point of some workbenches is handtool wood joinery... everything from planing to jointing to sawing and fitting. It needs to be both heavy and flat and trustworthy. That's why he refers to it as his "good" workbench - no doubt he has other ones which take a beating, get spilled on, glued on, etc. But nobody who does serious jointery wants glue marks and crap all over their joinery bench, because it throws off the accuracy - it's like critiquing a machinst for not setting his anvil on his surface plate - of course he wouldn't. you're critiquing a guy who used a $600 jointing plane to shoot the edge of his edgebanding for a demo - don't confuse him with Steve Ramsay or Adam Savage, the guy is a master craftsman.

[@user990077]

@@guitarchitectural Oh. OK. Thanks for info. I felt bad making the comment because this guy is a real master and I love his content. So a joinery bench is to a wood worker what a granite block (some are rated down to a millionth of an inch over a four foot span for example) is to a machinist shop. Now I get it.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

In a hand tool workshop your bench is a reference surface to measure flat from. My bench is a scandinavian workbench, a copy of Frank Klausz's and Taige Frids design, Old school woodworking handed down through generations. It was a pleasure to build and it is a pleasure to use. If you want an quick and easy workbench that will perform close to mine but without the Bells and Whistles, check out my Cosman Workbench made from MDF and plywood.

[@cortedemico]

"you can 'plainly' see that..." lol

[@Johnbro8]

Thanks for sharing your skills

[@nopelosi2012]

Great video Rob. Greatly appreciated! 🤠

[@WalkerHomestead]

@robcosman at 6:40 you are not using your riving knife..... biggest safety risk with a table saw, along with blade height set too high.... Curious why someone who has a status such as your self in the woodworking world would perform such a cut without a riving knife. It suggests to others who may not have a lifetime of experience in woodworking that it is okay to perform cuts like that without a knife.... I love your videos and appreciate your knowledge. But having personally seen the consequences of such actions, I would hope that more caution was given in the future and if you do remove such a safety device, at least explain to the viewers why you did remove it and also explain the risks of doing so. Again I appreciate your knowledge and techniques, just don't want to lose focus on the shop safety.

[@pcb1962]

Agree, no good reason not to have a riving knife fitted

[@johne.osmaniii7217]

I do not like MDF, or particle board, or OSB, for any types of end use around wet areas, ... ie kitchen/bathroom sinks, tubs, or drains, ....

[@maxrothman3558]

Rob - just found your video and commentary about using MDF plywood. Never would have believed the demo at the end with strength test until I saw it! Will definitely look for some of it in the future and may switch. Seems a good product and is always less expensive too! Great video series and lesson material about edging. Thanks!

[@JaimePradoRodriguez]

¡Muy buen profesor! ¡Felicitaciones desde Cali, Colombia!