How to fix decals silvering - scale modelling tutorial

[@Maddog-nb9vu]

I usually put a lacquer gloss coat (GX100) down before decals as its a pretty tough protection layer. Not only to for better adhesion of the decal but also to protect the paint underneath. I have found that some stronger decal setting solutions such as Tamiya Mark Fit Super Strong, Mr Mark Softer, Solvaset among others can damage the paint or leave stains. I use AK RC often and have had some issues with paint damage using an acrylic clear coat using stronger setting solutions while none with lacquer clear coats no matter what setting solution used.

[@MMScaleModels]

Same here, its just safer and more convenient IMO

[@fermiticus4034]

I had a terrible time with silvering, for a long time. Even with a gloss. Back when "Future" was all the rage, I tried it as a gloss, and it just looked like a cat took a chunky piss on my model. I went to Minwax clear gloss(lacquer), and tried "Future" just under the decal...excellent results and have not had any silvering issues since. The "Future" will leave behind a little residue around the decal area, but that'll completely disappear with another clear coat (gloss or flat).

[@nikoladze77]

Either way with cartograph decals there are no issues at all :)

[@MMScaleModels]

The ones in the video are cartograph so issues can arise if not treated properly... or at least thats my experience

[@Territory.Beyond]

I have achieved absolute decal perfection more often with matt varnish. In my experience it can be more problematic to apply decals over gloss. IMO It's all about the smoothness and quality of the paint finish (before varnish) that is the critical factor.

[@MMScaleModels]

I get your point but isn't gloss inherently smoother than matt... all things equal

[@TouTheoudoulos]

Personally i dont even varnish, decal goes straight on paint and only use softeners, hardly ever had issues.

[@Territory.Beyond]

@@MMScaleModels In theory that sounds correct. Maybe there is something about the way the decal film adheres to a nice smooth finish that helps. After application of Mr Mark softer and adequate drying time, I sometimes lightly sand the decals with a fine polishing sponge. A final coat of TS-80 renders the decals faultless.

[@pavelsilenkov3649]

Where did you manage to buy hyper sol?

[@MMScaleModels]

Their website, long time ago. obchod.agama-model.cz/hypersol-20ml/

[@pavelsilenkov3649]

@@MMScaleModels Thanks)

[@tesarus8461]

Some decals are more forgiving than others. Cartograph decals are exceptionally good. Bandai on another hand... They are thick and softening solution melts them to a state when any touching makes a mush out of them.

[@fermiticus4034]

The Asians make some exceptional kits...but can't seem to get decals right, and most(in my experience) are almost impervious to micro-sol...or are destroyed by it.

[@tesarus8461]

​@@fermiticus4034In general I agree. However recent Hasegawa is quite nice in that regard.

[@RichardsModellingAdventures]

Great content. Tamiya decals are the worst decals IMHO, it puts me off the amazing kits they produce. I paint my own markings when I can. With decals a smooth surface is important, be it matt, satin or gloss. Spray paint has a texture many people seem to overlook.

[@MMScaleModels]

True, smooth surface is key. Which in my opinion is easiest to achieve with gloss... especially with leveling thinner.

[@stuartshallproductions7409]

I used to think the same thing, however the trick with Tamiya decals is to soak them in hot water, then if the surface is properly prepped they work just fine. Have used them several times since and other than being a little thick they work great!

[@RichardsModellingAdventures]

@@stuartshallproductions7409 The thickness is deffo hard to overcome. I'll try the hot water though :)

[@Lee-eeL86]

​@@stuartshallproductions7409 I second your comment. Tamiya used to have notes in the old F1car kits to use hot water and a hot damp towel with thier decals. Works very well indeed. Tamiya "Mark Fit Strong" also allows you to put a decal on a Matt surface without silvering.

[@justasuggestion8216]

Anyone else have issues with Mr Mark Setter and Softer eating your paint?

[@MMScaleModels]

Do you have varnish over the paint?

[@justasuggestion8216]

@@MMScaleModels yes. I've been using Alclad gloss for years. Seems just in the last three builds, if I miss the tiniest spot of setter or softer it causes damage. But microsol doesn't always get the decals to settle as well as Mr Mark setter.

[@charleswillis2509]

Thank you.

[@WasatchModeler]

Proven wrong here: kzbin.info/aero/PLNTBZROJP42Qfp4tpJek-CnA9BP9gOUxU

[@WasatchModeler]

The two surfaces look the exact same as well.

[@TheUglurk]

@@WasatchModeler There was a good test, but the main thing - we don't need gloss surface to make good decal without silvering. Here is another point - To get best result, set decals on gloss varnish! Not a gloss surface, surface could be any, matt or gloss, whatever. Use gloss varnish as a decal set solution.

[@MMScaleModels]

@WasatchModeler I am sorry but you are proving exactly nothing. Your gloss coat is rough... that defies the point of having a gloss coat.

[@MMScaleModels]

@TheUglurk You are asking for trouble... i can imagine you mean waterbased acrylic gloss. If you try that with laquer its gonna be a mess.

[@sylvainplante9882]

Here we go! To gloss or not to gloss… that is the question! I would say, do the fuck you want and stop arguing about it. Both methods have their pros and cons. All and all, it’s the final result that count. Cheers

[@MMScaleModels]

True

[@sunguar]

Why does my comment keep vanishing?

[@Chilly_Billy]

Maybe it had some silvering? 😊

[@sunguar]

​@@Chilly_BillyNo it was about the FB discussion.

[@MMScaleModels]

Maybe external links?

[@sunguar]

@@MMScaleModels Maybe because I typed the FB group discussing your video.

[@sunguar]

They called it 'just nonsense"

[@simonmowatt]

100% agree that gloss is the way, not only for reducing silvering, but also for ease and accuracy of placement of decals.

[@MMScaleModels]

And protects the paint from the chemicals

[@Brent-Nelson68]

That’s just not true.

[@MMScaleModels]

what is not true?

[@TouTheoudoulos]

If the paint is rough from start, all a gloss coat will do is gloss the rough paint, paint has to be smooth also

[@paulsmodels]

There is no set way to fix bad decals. No magic formula, and no special trick. Some decals are just bad, and they will never look good. Some can be laid down on the model with nothing done to them except to just let them dry, and they come out perfect. There are lots of videos out there that claim to have the fix. It's just a crap shoot boys.

[@WasatchModeler]

What about the array of setting solutions out there?

[@MMScaleModels]

There might not be a concrete step by step solution for every decal out there but same principle applies