How to Fix Messed Up Chainsaw Drive Links

[@ChrisNeff]

I want a tee shirt with a Wilson Forest Lands logo and the new motto, "Don't do weird things with your saw."

[@oakiewoodsman]

Love it!

[@jmar5787]

The best part was the deer in the background @2:50 asking what the heck is he talking about now!! Finally getting back to work!!

[@realityawayfromreality3494]

Two of them. One on the little slope, and one hiding behind the wood pile.

[@danamoroso-xjq]

I have never started a chainsaw in my life and still can't wait for the next tips and tricks :D

[@stevefox410]

The first thing I try when my drive links are burred up after throwing a chain is to locate the burred links (it's usually only one or two), and position them in the sprocket rather than trying to fit them in the bar. Then I get the face plate back on and loosen the chain tension quite a bit. Then run the saw full bore. This usually takes the burrs off as the drive links go into the guide rails of the bar and the chain will spin freely. Then tension back up and you're good to go. I'm not sure why loosening the tension helps, but I find that if I don't loosen the tension, the chain will just get stuck again as the burred links enter the guide rails. This works great if you only have burred drivers in one spot, but sometimes, as long as the chain is loose, it'll file off some elsewhere on the chain too, it just depends on how bad they're burred. I mainly run smaller saws (ms 261), so maybe this trick might not work on a saw with more power, but it works 90% of the time for me and I don't have to stop and file off the burrs.

[@RGreen-rt1fk]

I run a Stihl 310 with an 18" bar. The saw usually comes with a 20", but 18" is plenty for my needs. I keep a 24" in the truck for the very rare emergency. It's rare that I throw a chain, but yeah, when I do, I just make one of those 'circles' that are sometimes a puzzle to unfurl. The drive links are now exposed. I lay it across whatever solid surface is convenient (usually the tailgate) and use a flat file to remove the burrs. It's often just 3 or 4 links, but as I said, it's a fairly rare occurrence and easily remedied. Not a big deal.

[@davidstephens7486]

Love the dry humor. 🤠

[@henrikeder1398]

Love your vids very entertaining and educational Greatings from Germany

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

I've thrown a few chains... and am too frugal to chuck them.😉 While holding the chain in a vice, with the drivers facing up and the rivets between the jaws, I've used a 3/8" drift punch and hammer to bend the drivers back into alignment. Then I take a few strokes with a mill file to make sure the damaged drivers are reasonably even with the others. There is enough slop in the bar groove for the drivers to be slightly uneven.

[@Delgwah]

Yes, done that to, an awful lot because I took the stock 8 tooth of and made the chain faster with the 7 tooth. The chain links bent on the aluminium L bracket screw heads.

[@MrT-xj6ue]

Best channel on KZbin

[@oakiewoodsman]

Loved that last video you referred too! I thought it was super funny and enjoy your content.

[@outhere8690]

I've been enjoying all of your videos since I began watching, and I've learned some good advice from them. My advice to you is that there are always complainers & internet trolls just looking for a place to play. Don't spend much time concerning yourself with or addressing them. If a subject becomes necessary for debate & people can keep it healthy & civil, that's fine, but otherwise let them squawk, or just delete them. Take care sir & have a great 2025.

[@lesahanners5057]

Here it's the pesky vine maple and hazelnut thickets that will get you, or worst yet, the salal and rhododendrons. Not only do you get the joy of chain-jumping but the brush soaks you to the skin, even if it hasn't rained in a week. I used to help my dad clear the brush back of our place, and salal was the worst. But I mustn't forget our pasture full of scotch broom. This was before we moved to wheat country. Then it was scrub oak, poisen oak, and oregon grape, with ticks and snakes in it to keep things interesting. One thing about the latter, if your chain jumped in that stuff their was no reaching into the brush to help free it. It was get out the long handled shovel and pry it loose. Thanks for another video Michael. Never boring and often very scintillating.😅

[@diafragm]

Top advice cheers! 9:15-9:40 for favourite going at it part, great use of a capable saw!I

[@lga11863]

Saw a video where a professional logger addressed this issue. He put the chain on very loose and rand the chain around the bar a few times. The burs worked themselfs off and good as new.

[@BonitaGreen-z3h]

This is exactly what I do, it works, then tighten it back up. You don't have to spend all the time to remove it, file it and then reinstall it.

[@olsno26]

Yep, quickest way to get rid of the burrs.

[@stihl0256]

This works really well for the careful guy. If you are accident prone, get a file.

[@janking2762]

Keep it loose or the chain may run hot and you can deform the bar.

[@blaydCA]

Works fine if the chain isn't too trashed. Isn't helping the bar much ...but bars can be replaced cheap enough when they expire.

[@jhake56]

Yup, I have that happen to me all the time as I run an 18 inch bar. The shorter bar doesn't has the flex as Mr Wilsons "Big Johnson" bar. I have to fix mine just as he describes. Thanks for sharing.

[@matthewbeaver5026]

Spur sprocket will typically damage the drivers more than a rim sprocket.

[@raymondmcdonald7085]

Too funny! You had an audience behind you!

[@parfproduction1345]

Beautiful lighting and exposure. Nicely done.

[@frontyardfirewood]

As a experienced chain thrower, I can say the star sprockets homeowner saws, or husky top handles, booger up the chains with burs, the round sprockets on the pro saws, not so much boogers. Just my 2 cents.

[@Delgwah]

I’ll buy 4 of those 2 cents👍🇨🇦

[@woodcutter59-x7v]

So true

[@billandbarbarabush5886]

Just happened to me today. I use a Dremel tool as a file never worked for me. Cutting in branchy stuff seems to be when it happens. I am using a Makita 16" bar battery powered saw. I do have a 038 Stihl 24" bar saw, which has to my best memory has never done this in the 40 years I have cut with it. I am not complaining as the Makita is terrific and I now cut all of my firewood with it. I cut fir, live oak, and pepperwood.

[@billandbarbarabush5886]

..and Madrone

[@kenbrown2808]

yeah, brush can get under the cover and catch in the fins, I think. the only time I've thrown a chain on my personal saw has been cutting brushy stuff.

[@geckoman1011]

Yep. Happened to me yesterday trying to work through brushy stuff. Anything small enough to be whipped around it's problematic.

[@matthewbeaver5026]

You can spread the bar groove doing. That. Only mention it cuz I just got done squeezing bars today.

[@ozyrob1]

Exactly how it happened to me. Trimming small stuff.

[@scottbailey.fingin]

More great advice Mr. "W". For your amusement: The chain leaps free, a metal snake, Landing with a clattering shake! Burrs arise, a wicked plight, Refusing snugly to take flight. The groove resists, a stubborn foe, "Get back in there!" I loudly crow. With file and force, I wage the war, Against those burrs, I evermore! Perhaps it's tension, too darn tight, Or maybe sharpening, done in the night, By drunken moonlight, a hazy gleam, Leading to this chain-throwing dream. But fear not, friend, for I have a plan, A gentle touch, a steady hand. A file applied with care and grace, Those burrs succumb, without a trace. Just please, dear friend, I must implore, Don't try to catch the chain, I implore! For safety's sake, let it fly free, And avoid such chainsaw glee! *And remember folks, don't do weird things with your chainsaw.

[@joepodunk284]

You write that? That was pretty cool my friend,😂👍👍👍 Gonna forward this vid to an ole logger buddy and tell him to read this Lil Diddy, see if he's heard it before 😂 Nice job 👏

[@scottbailey.fingin]

@joepodunk284 The screen aglow, a flicker in the night, Joe Podunk watched, a wondrous, strange delight. A video played, of words both sharp and keen, A chainsaw chain, a concept unforeseen. The comment shone, a gem of wit and grace, A flick of wrist, the chain finds proper place, A file's caress, a gentle, guiding hand, To mend the break, a masterful command. Joe's eyes did gleam, a spark of joyful fire, This clever mind, he mused, a poetic desire. He sought his friend, a logger old and wise, Read this, he urged, a challenge, a surprise. The author's name? his friend inquired with care, A mystery, Joe said, a genius beyond compare. Perhaps, he mused, a kindred spirit's art, Inspired by the chainsaw, a skillful, knowing heart. Though I myself, he added with a wink, May claim a small part, for the pleasure it did sink. Deep in my soul, this verse, so strong and bold, A testament to ingenuity untold. Glad you liked the poem as much as the video. Mr. "W" gets most of the credit. Scott

[@ericglaude4953]

Michael, your commentary is always educational and valuable to me and I will say for most of us on the channel who share your core values and perspectives. For that that don’t agree, I say that just too bad and go watch what some other happy mindless brain rot material on some other channel. I have to agree with the comments I have read so far, I rarely throw the chains on my long bars, and mainly on my little T-Handle Stihl that I use for branches and slashing around to make up burn pile fuel. Swinging around that 32” to branch will test those shoulders too much and I can control the branch piles that I make much better with a smaller bar to deal with. However when I throw the chains because of a pinch on a decelerating chain or some other stupid move, the smaller driver itself can actually bend and then you really are done. I’ve tried to straighten them out with a hammer and a vise, but that will lead to uneven bar rail wear and all the good stuff you already mentioned to us. Sometimes it ruins a new 3/8P or a .325, but again it’s my dumb move usually that does it in. So don’t do dumb moves with a chainsaw. I do find the Stihl chain a tougher chain overall, but like you preach to us, you have to keep that chain sharp if you want any chain to perform. Thank you for the excellent content on Forestry management and Conservation methods that you use, and would like more of that in your future videos.

[@danhenderson783]

Throwing a chain with a rim sprocket rarely causes burrs. A spur sprocket can and will chew up the drivers.

[@josephbryson1565]

That old chain still has lots of life..geesh. lol I also find the aluminum chain catch seem to do it more often than the husky and westcoast dog chain catches t 5:19 hat are a hard composite.

[@yearginclarke]

I rarely get burrs after throwing a chain. However I remember the first time it happened to me. I was fairly inexperienced with saws at the time. Initially I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't fit back in the bar groove. The drivers were pretty burred up in this particular instance. After a while of messing around unsuccessfully, thankfully I finally figured out that I should file the burrs off, and got back to work. I also didn't know about bending the bar to put a chain back on at that time. But I soon learned that trick. I've never had any problems caused from bending bars 19 years later, and have never heard of anyone who has.

[@ridgerunner4273]

I run a 24” bar on my husqvarna saw, I have the most problems with it throwing a chain than I do with any other saw I run. And as far as the burrs, I have a cheap battery dremel I picked up at northern tool for under $20. Works great on getting them ground down.

[@I00kingin]

Thanks!

[@TheReal1953]

Yeah, file the side burs and then find a round file to match the hook on the good drivers.....then reform the hooks on the bad ones. Helps the divers clean the bar rails like they're supposed to.

[@robdavis8307]

When you stick your big bar deep in the brush, keep the power up. 😂😂

[@dylanvice2871]

This happened to me for the first time the other day. I was using my father n laws Husky 555 and I felt awful about it. Told him I have no idea how it happened. Been running my Stihl 180c for a season and a half without issue so I was completely puzzled! Thanks for the video and stay safe!

[@MitchellsBackyardLogging]

If my chain burrs up alot of times if it isnt really bad i put it on the bar not reall tight and slowly run it until it wears the burr off and them i tighten the chain on up it may be a little awkward at first but it works most of the time

[@oakiewoodsman]

I have done this too Wes. I like this channel buddy

[@MitchellsBackyardLogging]

@@oakiewoodsman it may not be optimal for the bar but it works for me most of the time i like this channel as well alot of good tips and u can tell he knows his stuff without acting like his ways the only way or he is the only one who can run a saw

[@oakiewoodsman]

@@MitchellsBackyardLogging 100% I always scan the comments to see if any friends are around on other great channels.

[@im2bz4stupidity]

About every third time my wife sneaks one of my chainsaws out, for some ill advised notion, she manages to do what you described. Easiest way I've found to deburr the chain, is a Dremel, with a sanding disk.

[@tt600pch]

When I millwrighted we also had to babysit the operator's saws. We had 460 and 046 Stihls for the debarker operators. Thery would regularly have to whittle out a 31 inch plus log from the steel confines of a 30 inch hole. There was a lot of steel to hit on a 30" Cambio debarker. The chains were thrown and usually had a driver burr. The chains were often broken as well. Around 1994 I also witnessed the aftermath of a small brand new small Stihl that went through a wood chipper. Come to think of it I have seen some things...

[@Delgwah]

It got stuck and out threw👍 I wouldn’t do that, maybe, but it happens.

[@blaydCA]

I worked for a Major power equipment dealer in another life. Chippers eating saws was rare, but not unheard of. Those chipper blades weren't cheap either. Pole pruners were the biggest repair item, and huge money to repair or replace.

[@tt600pch]

@@blaydCA The days of people using tools like they owned them are long gone. The chippers I worked on were 100-150 HP driven and had could eat a 12" log. The worst thing in a chipper's life is a hammer head or roller chain. Yep, seen and repaired aftermath of both. I honestly miss the rush of the job when I was younger.

[@blaydCA]

@@tt600pch Asplundh was one of our major clients. Definitely PRO level workers. Even so shyte happens. The biggest damages to equipment was from the landscapers that had low end workers. Prior to the equipment dealer stint I owned a Landscaping company but was selective on who operated what machinery based on skill level and training.

[@trimbaker1893]

Yepper, happens to me too. Not a long bar or short bar, 28" bar for me on my old husky 460. I take out the flat file and get each driver cleaned up so it doesnt widen the groove in the bar. seems like it happens at times where I was doing something weird with my saw. Oh the shame...

[@leethurston4774]

I think it’s more of a husky vs stihll thing. Good video man

[@lowellfunk8974]

I really enjoyed the bird chior in the middle of the video. But I'm not sure what song they were singin and also how you trained them...😅😂❤

[@kmac6601]

Was thinking of when I throw chains - softwood blow down work with lots of bar pinching, and also when being lazy trying to finish a cut after kissing a rock - chain gets hot and sloppy.

[@TailgateTinkerer]

Perhaps part of the problem is the chain catcher design. On my Husky saws it’s a ln aluminum “L” whereas some saws have a roller or rounded chain catcher. I’ve had quite a few under full power and really did a number on quite a few drive links. Sometimes a few swipes with a file fixes it, sometimes the distortion and number of links damaged makes the repair more costly than the chain.

[@Bushman9]

Yeah, my huskies have bent drivers after throwing. Doesn’t happen often, which is good as I haven’t even tried to straighten them out.

[@joepodunk284]

"Most of the time when that happens I'm sticking the bar where I just shouldn't be putting it", 😱 "I'm talking about chainsaw bars" Glad you cleared that up with us!😅 LMFAO! At that one 😂

[@BillHale-p9d]

When you said burn some gas, I was hoping for something to fall and go boom 😂

[@andysmith8544]

I could use a couple days of "maintenance cutting" but with 3' of snow on the ground that's not gonna happen anytime soon. Chains always come off in small brushy stuff, not bucking up decent sized logs or limbs. We definitely get more and worse burrs on the smaller limbing saws.

[@adambooth3858]

I've seen some larger saws have a chain catcher that bolts between the dogs and has a plastic cover. I wonder if this style of chain catcher is less likely to bugger the driver teeth than the style that looks like an aluminum hook and bolts onto the case.

[@ozyrob1]

The worst thing is when it happens to a never sharpened new chain. Its the first time I've experienced the burring and it happened with a brand new chain.

[@RC-ml3ne]

Thanks for the good videos and tips--we appreciate your work! Here in WNC I was bucking up a really big oak that came down in Helene, using the 36 inch bar. First of all, I do not like the longish bars because they are trouble--difficult to mount, time consuming to sharpen, and they overweight the saw, but when you need one, well, you use it if you have one. So here I was preparing some saw logs, merrily cutting away on this giant chestnut oak when I foolishly decided to clear off a little brush. Whamo, I threw the chain! This seems to happen more frequently when you try to do a weed-eater's job with a chainsaw, but with a 20 inch bar you just file off the burrs on your damaged drive links and then you are off and running. This is not a slam dunk however with a 36 inch chain. In this case I threw the chain on the metal relying pile because it was well used and had maybe one two sharpenings left in it. Here is a tip and I do not recommend or endorse this, but with the 20 inch I have actually forced the chain back into the bar groove where it does fit and simply started and revved up the saw. Since the bar is harder than the drive inks it will sometimes seat itself and more or less "grind off" the burrs, and then again, maybe it won't! So don't come to me if this does not work for you but if it does it sure beats squinting at a chain that must be first immobilized and then struggling to file off the burrs.

[@marcweber4599]

Hats off to you sir! Some folks got wacked real bad from Helene. I hope that you, your family and friends are doing OK.

[@BertsCustomCuts]

I did that just the other day. I'll be doing a video and cleaning up the bur. Video vill be up in about 2 weeks. I did a video awhile back with the 5ft bar and threw the chain. I slowed it down in video and was alazed with the way it flew.

[@oakiewoodsman]

cool man

[@dallasfinch1100]

I rarely throw a chain hard enough to damage the links, when I do, I toss the chain into the trash and get over it.

[@jbbolts]

It's an awkward shape to file. I try and have a few sheets of emery cloth around 120 grit I think or it could be 80. It deburs the chain quick enough and the cloth conforms to the shape of the driver.

[@robchandler755]

What your chain. New chains stretch more. When you put a chain on run it a minute and check the tension again. Keep it adjusted as needed.

[@saltymofo5870]

Mr. Wilson, the reason you cant remember filling the drivers is the same reason I can’t remember filing the drivers, you use Stihl chain. When running Oregon or Carlton or who ever makes Huskies chain, the drivers are a lot softer on these. I absolutely wont run anything but Stihl chain.

[@HarrisT]

2nd this. I’ve had Carlton and Oregon with burrs, factory out of the box. Stihl is the winner

[@gorrister2977]

Sad but true. I prefer Oregon anyhow. Stihl kills too many files per chain, but doesn't stay longer sharp. Dirt is always the winner. So I prefer to file easier. But yeah, 20" bars jump when hitting bushes and yeah Oregon drive links get notches. You can also put them on the anvil and smack them with a hammer.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

@@saltymofo5870 I only use Stihl chains and assure you drivers can be damaged… I describe my repair technique elsewhere in these comments.

[@brucemccune]

I have two Stihl saws with short bars and never had this problem. I recently bought an Echo electric with longer bar and have had this happen twice already, so I'm keeping the chain a little tighter on that. I believe it came with an Oregon chain. Pretty slow taking the burrs off with a file, so I've used a dremel tool with grinding bit. That worked fine, just a touch on each driver.

[@amosbackstrom5366]

​@brucemccune the longer the chain, the easier it throws

[@AldoBarbosadeAndrade]

I would like to suggest a video about chain oil. I know many people who use used engine oil to avoid spending money on the correct chain oil.

[@kenbrown2808]

that's exactly how I fix the chain when I find another crew has thrown it so many times the fins are buggered up. it generally takes me about an hour to do all the fins.

[@TailgateTinkerer]

Perhaps part of the problem is the chain catcher design. On my Husky saws it’s a ln aluminum “L” whereas some saws have a roller or rounded chain catcher. I’ve had quite a few under full power and really did a number on quite a few drive links. You mentioned the sprocket causing the damage….hmmmm. Sometimes a few swipes with a file fixes it, sometimes the distortion and number of links damaged makes the repair more costly than the chain. I typically use a 24” bar, so the stresses of a shorter bar may be a factor as you say.

[@denniskisling4084]

As newbie I have thrown several. Have learned to adjust chain at first sign of stretch. When I do make a mess it only takes a minute to debur a lot of links with a die grinder and a medium scuff pad

[@Traconian2]

I use a 12v Milwaukee right-angle die grinder to remove burrs when I bugger up a chain, fortunately it doesn't happen often. I also use the 12v Milwaukee straight die grinder with a 7/32 bit to sharpen the chain quickly in the field, or I just replace the chain, or I just grab a different saw.

[@thedarkmasterthedarkmaster]

East coast west coast stuff is silly. Gulfcoast is best :3

[@dp3797]

When I bugger up the drivers on a chain, I use a Dremel tool to fix it.

[@I00kingin]

me too

[@gunterbecker8528]

It mainly happens to cowboys 😅

[@migx7749]

the forest at the beginning looks like it has been planted and looks perfect

[@StingrayBay]

I use stihl chains. Usually, they only come off just as you say... doing weird stuff. Nearly always when effectively hedge trimming with a chainsaw. The small twigs of some hard wood can end up cut into pieces just the right size to fit sideways under the sprocket cover. If they fall between the sprocket and the bar the drive links can grab them and feed them onto the top of the bar between the chain and bar. If it's too big it will probably jamb at the tip as the twig over tensions the chain, but if it's just right it will go around the tip far enough to derail the chain. It nearly always happens when I'm far from home, so I never have a big flat file only the sharpening files. The depth guage file is best but I have manage to flatten the burrs with the round file when desperate, you just rest it on the near side of the burr and take a few cuts, job done. Moral of the story don't scrub cut with a saw and you will probably never have it happen😂

[@beerdrinker6452]

Nice video.

[@swere1240]

ive had this happen acouple times and your right it sucks having to file each link down. the last time it happened i just put a new chain on and when i got home used a dremel instead of a handfile . still sucked but wasnt as bad. and the only time i really ever throw a chain now is from hitting a twig like you said

[@Earth_Care_Cowboy]

All the chains that I’ve thrown that have been buggered up as you call it, I would take into the chainsaw shop and the old chainsaw tech would take a flapper disc on an angle grinder and knock all those burgers off takes about 30 seconds then he would grind the chain with the Simmons for me and I was back to work. We throw a lot of chains when we’re cutting fire line especially if it’s a Saw that’s got a lot of hours on it and the sprockets getting worn as soon as you start hitting small vine maple or scrub Oak without using the front of the bar you’re probably gonna throw that chain like you said take a little flat file. You would use on the breakers off as much as you can put the chain back on loose, and then start the Saw drop the clutch revving up a little bit and usually those birds disappear pretty quick tighten the chain to proper and continue to fight some fire. That’s how we do it.

[@apostoloskokalis3431]

Mr Wislon i hope fires didnr affect you and ur beautiful forest

[@AustinL911]

Can we get a video with your thoughts on the LA fires and what lead to them?

[@JohnComeOnMan]

I divide bath soap bars with a chainsaw to distribute to my family. Is that doing something weird?

[@tree_carcass_mangler]

No, no, no. Not at all.

[@Chillituber]

I use a Stihl 500i with a 32" bar. Threw a chain once and buggered up my drive links. Used a Dremel with a medium coarse discharge to sand down the links.

[@Morgan2XL]

Cheap blue 400 grit diamond grit hone makes fast reajustments to the work hardened links that the file won't touch. Same rig - between brushing, limbing and finding fencing wire while falling I through a new chain 4 times in one day and not once in the rest of the year.

[@blaydCA]

500i... That like putting a bar and chain on your 1 ton truck axle and logging! I'm getting old, and downsized to a little 182 now that I'm an old man... Oh well..

[@Chillituber]

​@@blaydCA I am getting old myself; 67 trips around the sun. I did not want to have to tune my saw every time I wanted to use it.

[@blaydCA]

@@Chillituber I haven't needed a chain saw in a couple decades of desert living, as you can cut a tree down with a power pole trimmer if you're patient. My circa late 1970's- 1980's Stihl hasn't had parts availability in decades. I can still knock a 30" caliper tree down with that little Stihl.... A couple of tanks of gas and a nap in-between. LoL Tis what happens when you buy a Summer Camp with actual trees!

[@marvinmoore5712]

Sounds great keep it going 😊

[@blaydCA]

I've stuck my bar into places I shouldn't be putting it plenty of times! How else do you polish the rocks?? PRO TIP: Once you thoroughly ruin the bar, even damaged chains WILL fit, burr and all.

[@kairos_01-d5d]

All my derailments have been while cutting limbs or really small stuff. I see your pet deer came by at 2:49, behind the woodpile, looking for a treat or curious about your saw information?

[@bobrees4363]

The worst chainsaw I have ever had for throwing chains is my current small saw, an Echo CS-310 with a 14" bar. Did not matter if it was a new chain, old chain, tight or a bit loose. Nine times out of ten, it would burr the drive links when it happened. The best way I found to work the burrs down is to use a belt grinder to just touch the burrs. I had gotten the bar pinched badly when the saw was new, I bought a replacement bar for it and haven't thrown one yet (one tank of gas). I do not remember ever burring the links on any other saw when they very occasionally did throw the chain.

[@hobbyfarmer62]

Haven't tossed many chains and only had 2 that got burs on them and yes they are oddly hard to file off.

[@kknows3512]

Are you running a rim sprocket?

[@geckoman1011]

I threw my chain yesterday so this poor to mediocre advice is very timely.

[@playdiscgolf1546]

This happened a couple time and I just bought a new chain, but they are expensive and I took my sharpening file and fixed it pretty easy

[@piotr84ru]

I wonder how would you deal with Prunus padus L. and Sambucus L(no idea about english names) infected pine forest. I tried with nearly the same saw+bar as you and I was... exhausted after one fuel tank. These bushes are terribly tangled and tend to create new roots from branches touching ground. After you cut them then dont want to lie on the ground, they just spread with branches in all directions like fireworks. Actually they're bit simillar to pine crowns but scale times 3. Any advice other than "burn it" ;) ?

[@piotr84ru]

Prunus padus L. small branches are in fact extremmaly elastic(like wire), and Sambucus L. stiff like steel

[@anemone104]

I use small saws and short bars by preference. In 35 years, I have seldom had a 'chain off'. The ones I remember were when cutting bamboo. If you regularly have chains flip off on short bars, there is something wrong, usually the chain is bagging off the bar when at rest. Fixing burrs? If few and not too large, just like the demo' here, but it's rare that I get burred drive links through my workshop. I have had chains through which have been burred. I suspect that if the chain will go back on the saw, operators do that and spin the saw up. I do get long chains with drive link burrs through occasionally. I tend to chop out the burred bits and make the chain down for a short bar and make up a replacement chain and dress any damage to the guide bar. If you've had a 'chain off', check the chain catcher. Over here in a work context, we regard the chain catcher as a safety-critical component. In event of an accident or injury bad enough for riddor* to kick in and especially where the site is sealed and gear involved is sequestered, a chain catcher that can be shown to have been missing for a while will generate questions. Chain catchers are cheap and (on pro saws) easy and quick to change. * Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations. It's a set of health and safety regulations in the United Kingdom that require the reporting of certain workplace incidents. Of course if the accident is severe enough for police and ambulance, consequences, investigation severity and PAPERWORK tend to increase.

[@VBCJesusSaves]

A rotary tool (aka Dremel) with a grinding bit will easily handle those nasty burrs. I've done it far too often when trying to cut small brushy material with my saw when I should have been using a trimmer with a brush cutter blade.

[@janking2762]

That’s an old Maine farmer joke….

[@joepiker]

There was a time, about 20 years ago, when I was experiencing a lot of chain throws. I was doing a lot of brushcutting (kind of like what you were doing in the video). Maybe it was the saw , probably the bar was worn. I would file down the burs on the drivers, just like you did. It was a hassel, but really only took a few minutes. I had a guy working for me who also had the same problem. We were cutting a lot of manzanita ( the worst for this ) and deer brush. But I did notice the laminated bar he was running did it more often than my solid bar. These days I have been running an MS 460,and MS 362 with Stihl bars and very rarely throw a chain. Better bars, I think.

[@southernadirondackoutdoors]

I see damaged links more on the chains of small saws. Chains like the Stihl 3/8 Picco and the Husqvarna equivalent.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

I think the chains come off more like how you roll a v-belt off a pully... you catch an edge and roll it up the inside of the bar groove.

[@danlynch6194]

I often throw and burr and kink chains when clearing trail with a 16" bar & spur sprocket. It seems to happen when the chain pulls small brush into the clutch cover and creates a jam there. Of course I try to avoid sawing small brush, but if I must saw brush, I believe it is better to saw it with the top of the bar, so that the brush gets pushed away from the saw, instead of pulled into the clutch cover area. To reinstall a burred or kinked chain on a short bar, I release chain tension until the chain can fit over the bar even if a few drivers refuse to go in the slot. Then I try to spin the chain around the bar by hand. Sometimes spinning the chain around the bar by hand is enough to deal with the burrs and kinks, but if not, then I fire up the saw and spin the chain under power. That has always removed the burrs and kinks. Then I have to take up the slack in the chain. It's a PITA, but it works, no filing necessary.

[@jefflary5457]

It is amazing to me how close those deer come to you when they know you are there. JeffinMaine

[@bwillan]

If you are out in the field, just put on your back up chain. You know the one you should carry, but forgot. LOL.

[@hphillips7425]

Lightly use a 3m / 3” sanding disc with the chain on a board just like you are showing

[@Techno_Nomadic]

MS 261 18" rim sprocket. Stihl chains. Get burrs everytime.

[@Delgwah]

Hmm

[@nate-408]

I get the last laugh cause I file the trouble drivers and tell both the chain and saw breaks over get back to work!

[@Delgwah]

I get it on, trash run it loose, buggers the heel of the bar a bit. And tighten it a bit more. It will get you through the day. But remember bars are not cheap, so be careful out there. PS some times it’s so bad, better to go to town, and maybe visit. 👍

[@BillRoss-s1x]

The deer behind the woodpile doesn’t seem to care

[@dlivelyb]

I wonder if a chain comes off (is thrown) when there is a ‘kink’ in the guide (slot in the bar) of a certain angle or greater. Of course the chain is also probably ‘running loose’ at the same time. So if you have a longer bar, even though it is more flexible, is it harder to develop a ‘kink of a certain minimum angle’ while using the saw? With a shorter bar, and doing ‘something dumb with the saw,’ maybe that’s when one makes a ‘kink’ in the bar (definition would be a localized bend that exceeds a certain minimum angle) and throws the chain. It probably also matters where this occurs on the chain path, guessing that the gap between the sprocket and the bar is the most likely place for this to happen (in which case, a stiffer, shorter bar might be more prone to making a ‘kink’). Don’t know, speculating here.

[@chuck750ss8]

Rarely throw a chain my 2 Stihl chainsaws. I have an Ego limb trimmer that will throw a chain on a regular basis.

[@amosbackstrom5366]

There's a simple solution for this problem, make the chainsaw do the work. Put the chain on loose and run it, this knocks the bur off in two seconds. It works best if you start the bad links on the top of the bar, by the chainsaw body. This lets the chain get some momentum before it encounterers the tip sprocket, where the burr is knocked off.

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

Vines are my nemesis... it's like they have fingers that pick the chain right off the bar!

[@christophermislinski5930]

There's a deer behind your wood pile at 2:50... maybe she's trying to learn some forestry management from you!

[@lpeterman]

Sharp eye! and well spotted -- I had to go back and look, sho 'nuff there she is.

[@craig243ful]

99.9% of the time i throw chains when im tired and in a hurry

[@WhatDadIsUpTo]

Dremel makes a battery-operated rotary grinding tool & a stone bit that would be far and away faster to dress a boogered drive cog than a file. Just sayin'.

[@mikevee9145]

Admit it, you were trying to throw the chain at the end there.

[@flintknappingtools]

Go woke, get BROkE!

[@raymondmcdonald7085]

You look like you are working somewhere around Gold Hill.

[@hosocat1410]

Certain things can just go unsaid. Like how we all know that west coast guys run longer bars than necessary because they're compensating for something.

[@Delgwah]

Shorter seasons, lol😂

[@PaulHodgson-gm6lg]

Huskies don't do that, because they have a floating sproket. Sthil's don't come with a floating sproket.

[@Bushman9]

What?… no slash burning? Boo. Hiss.

[@ad-xp3ik]

good video but could have more aggressive clickbait