How To Fix Tacky & Uneven Epoxy Resin- Table Top Epoxy Tips & Tricks

Is your Table Top Or Bar Top Epoxy resin still tacky after several weeks? Read our full fix tacky epoxy article here: epoxycountertopdiy.com/what-do... and our full article on uneven epoxy here: epoxycountertopdiy.com/how-to-...
If your Epoxy Resin is not curing after a few days, the chances are that the epoxy mixture is not going to cure altogether. This is almost always due to incorrect ratios OR less than thorough mixing of the two parts together.
As much as we wish there was a magic formula to fix epoxy, it is simply not the case. You may even see other videos online about pouring a new layer over the soft or uncured epoxy. However, this is not the proper way to fix epoxy. In order to fix tacky epoxy it needs to be scraped down and then sanded down as best as possible. This could be done with a putty knife, paint scraper or similar. As much of the soft epoxy as possible needs to be removed. New epoxy can then be applied.
For uneven epoxy or finishes with surface bubbles , sanding is usually the best way to re-create a level surface. If epoxy is wavy or uneven it could be due to incorrect mixtures. You may notice soft spots or spots that feel rubbery. Soft or rubbery areas should be scraped down and then sanded as well. A new layer of correct epoxy can then be applied.
Video by: epoxycountertopdiy.com
Our favorite table top epoxy: amzn.to/41Xn8SV

[@gfexc]

Best video on repairs. Easy language, to the point, without the blah, blah,blah. A lifesaver video. I was about to pour a new coat on top of a bad mix, based on internet info. I was able to save the counter with no problems after seeing this vid...Thanks

[@epoxydiy6356]

Awesome to hear! Thanks for the kind words.

[@nicklutz795]

I've done numerous DIY projects, installed countertops, bathtubs, toilets, epoxy is the mist difficult DIY project I've ever done

[@sarabicreations3936]

Thank You! I didn’t want to throw away my project

[@GaryBehling]

I did a pour epoxy over a painted table and I guess I missed a few spots or the epoxy did not spread to fill up all those spots. I then went and mixed more to put into those spots but for whatever reason it did not fill them in properly and now I have a mess. The second coat remained tacky for days. I have now tried to scrape off the tacky part and then sand. Should I recoat the entire table or just those spots?

[@TerrapinCreations666]

You can sand it right after scraping? Won’t that just gum up the sandpaper almost instantaneously? I mean even after a really good scraping there must be lots of sticky goop still on the wood, no?

[@andrewsbbq7876]

i did a beer cap table the epoxy is still tacky after 5 days of curing can I use ur scraping off method and redo just the same?

[@bolulembut1132]

please help! 5 days ago i did tabletop my table about 150x50cm using epoxy coating with 1:1 ratio. today i check out my table its hard enough but bit feel like it has elasticity ( i tried to stab my finger nail on it and its leave my fingernail marks and immediately recovery , it also leave my fingerprints easily and when i touch it bit sticky but not tacky like your video), what the problem its called? what is wrong with my tabletop? my room temperature about 84-85f . how do i fix it? can i just sand it off with 220 grid sandpaper and repour new epoxy on it? please i need your help

[@ashlytriem75]

Hi! I poured my first epoxy project the other day. The gentleman at the store said to line the frame around the desktop with plastic so it would not stick to the boards/frame. The plastic came off nicely, but now I have high edges all the way around it. Can I sand down the edges and re-pour a thin coat to get it back to glossy, or do I sand it and buff it out with a polishing compound? Or is there another way? TYIA!

[@epoxydiy6356]

Are the edges sticking up higher than the surface area? Yes, you can sand them, but you will lose the shine/gloss. You could then pour a new coat over the entire project so that the edges are fluid with the surface.

[@rosaleencook1005]

I poured my first epoxy project doing my bathroom countertop. I have one of those integrated sink and countertop. I attempted to pour epoxy over counter and let it drip into the sink. I made a mistake tapping the drain instead of letting the epoxy drip through the drain, so now I have harden epoxy over the drain. How do I fix this? I cut the epoxy to exposed the drain, but now it looks tacky. If you or anyone know a quick fix without ruining the whole countertop I would appreciate very much for some advice. Thanks in advance

[@thisisthau3228]

Hi, I need help! My husband bought a coffee table from an artist. The coffee table has drawings in sharpie so we would not be able to use it until we covered the surface. I decided to do it with resin and I unfortunately did not mix enough, so now the surface is not even WHATSOEVER, it has some pits. I've watched your videos on how to fix that BUT I can't sand the surface primarily because I'm afraid of scraping the art off. My question for you is: Is it possible to fix the issue by pouring much more resin and letting it to become even by itself? Or should I do something else? Help me save this coffee table please 😭 Thx in advance

[@epoxydiy6356]

Hey Thauani, is the epoxy fully cured now? What brand of epoxy did you use? If it is self leveling epoxy, yes, it should fill in those voids and self level. However, most epoxies require thin pours of no more than 1/8" or 1/4" per application.

[@thisisthau3228]

Hi, it's fully cured now. I used the Envirotex Lite: Environmental Technology 32-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-fJdDbKQXESP7

[@epoxydiy6356]

If its cured, you could sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper, clean the surface thoroughly and then pour a new coat on the surface to fill in those voids.

[@legendarycustomleathers8387]

Can i touch up burnt epoxy by sanding the area and doing a small coat on the damaged area rather than redoing the whole surface?

[@epoxydiy6356]

You will need to sand this area down, sand the entire surface and pour the entire top in a new layer. If you try to pour just the area that you have sanded, you'll likely notice a line where the new epoxy meets the old. In order to get a fluid/continuous looking top, you must pour the entire surface again.

[@susana8578]

Great video. Learned a lot.

[@epoxydiy6356]

Awesome! Thanks for watching.

[@jeffersongrove]

Hi, i have has a couple of pours recently that seems like it has set properly, seems solid until I go to sand it, and it goes gummy or toffee like and smears all over the table top. i feel like i have done everything correctly but obviously something has gone wrong. do you know what the cause of this would be? its pretty devastating on a river table on the final pour as it you cant see through the soft sanded resin and there is no way to get it off. what do you think oi did wrong? I can say that both times it has happened, I mixed the batch, then put the container in another container of hot water to heat it up and get rid of some bubbles. not sure if that has anything to do with it? Thanks, Marcel.

[@epoxydiy6356]

This is usually a result of incorrect ratios. What type epoxy are you using? Are you using graduated mixing container to measure out the epoxy prior to mixing?

[@jeffersongrove]

@@epoxydiy6356 Hey, Im using a 2:1 ratio resin that is made in Australia, called Super clear (could also be called Platinum super clear) both times it happened I was using a measuring cup and was mixing small amounts (75ml) the cup I used 75ml is about the smallest amount I can mix as it only realy has markers every 25ml, and I'm not sure if you can weigh out the ratios when mixing? on the second time it happened i may have put in a touch more of the hardening part (part B) but thought this would only make it set harder? Also I have transferred the both part A and B into smaller containers with taps for easier use, not sure if that would have any impact, but has only happened on 2 pours so far, so Im assuming not. Do you think I should use more detailed measuring containers? would putting more part B also cause this effect? do you know if its ok to weigh out the 2:1 parts instead of measure? for instance 10G of part A to 5G of part B? Thank you for your advice and assistance!

[@epoxydiy6356]

Regarding weight, this will be dependent on the specific epoxy. Unfortunately, we do not have that specific epoxy in the US (at least not that I have heard of). Some manufacturers do provide ratios by weight. No, adding additional hardener, will not make it the mixture harder. In fact this can cause the epoxy to not cure properly as you have suggested. The ratios need to be exact as well as adequate mixing.

[@jeffersongrove]

@@epoxydiy6356 thanks heaps.. that was helpfull, I will assume that i just got the ratios off a little. one more question, I had a batch of 2:1 epoxy is a 30L kit, so was 20L part a and 10L part b.. i have used about half of it, and it sat on the workshop for about 10 months, not the hardener seems to be a bit cloudy and has got lumps in it. Is this because there was air in the container? is there any way to get it back to normal, or is it ruined now? Thanks heaps for your time to answer questions! Love your work!

[@sheilenecreecy6620]

Im working on my first river rock coffee table. My first 4 pours were somewhat successful, hardened beautifully. But my final pour failed and did not fully cure, some spots were more wet than others. I was able to scrape and chip off most of . I've sanded the surface as much as I could until the gumminess was gone. I still have some craters in the surface but its smooth with scratches and cloudiness. It all wets out when I wet it. For the craters, when I fill those, will they appear clear? Or will u still be able to see the imperfection? Thank you in advance.

[@epoxydiy6356]

Normally, I would say yes, that should work, but it's hard to answer without seeing it. You were able to sand down all the soft areas? If you pour over soft epoxy, it will always be soft underneath the top coat. The new coat should fill in your craters. This problem is usually a result of an incorrect ratio OR not mixing long enough. Make sure to pour by the correct volume and mix very thoroughly. Good Luck!

[@sheilenecreecy6620]

@@epoxydiy6356 Yes, the remaining surface is hard. All of the gumminess has been removed. It took some time to remove it all; lots of acetone, scraping, chipping, and sanding. I think my containers I used for mixing were not big enough and so to keep from spilling, I may have been too gentle with my stir. Thank you for responding. I will go ahead and test a small area as you mentioned.

[@epoxydiy6356]

That makes sense. Those patchy soft areas are a result of the two parts not fully reacting with each other. Definitely be sure to mix thoroughly.

[@autumnwinter6354]

I did my own wood counter tops and did the seal coat first and everything came out just fine, but then I did the flood coat. I had to do it it in 48-52 degree weather in a trailer with no heat or AC I know I got the ratio right but for some reason some spots are still a tad bit tacky in the thickest spots, like you can touch them but it hasn't fully cured. It's been four days and they have all been in the 48s-50s except at night when its in the 20s. This week is suppose to be warmer in the 58-63 range will more time allow it to cure fully or should I say forget it and scrap it down?

[@epoxydiy6356]

What type of epoxy are you using? Most epoxy requires temperatures above 75°. If cooler, the epoxy may not mix properly or self level properly. 48° is likely way too cold to try and mix/pour epoxy. The epoxy probably was very very difficult to mix.

[@autumnwinter6354]

@@epoxydiy6356 i used MAS table epoxy

[@epoxydiy6356]

You'll have to check the directions, but my gut tells me that the temperatures you have asked about are far too cold. It will be very difficult to get a proper mixture and the epoxy will not self level properly. If you can scrape it down, scrape it down. If you cannot, you might want to use Isopropyl Alcohol 99% or whatever MAS suggests. This will usually help to cut the tackiness, so that it can be sanded down. Again, check with MAS on what they suggest for tacky epoxy. Stay away from anything with ANY water in it.

[@autumnwinter6354]

@@epoxydiy6356 thank you!

[@daniellantz3994]

heat it up

[@jeffersongrove]

Hi, I am about to pour a self levelling epoxy top cote to a dining table I made, but the table is not 100% flat, it bows down in the middle (like 4 or 5 mm in the worst places from the edges of the table). I cant fix this as it has stones in it along the edges, so I cant plane it flat. can i still use the top cote? or will it all just run into the middle of the table? will it look bad if it is deeper in the middle? any help is appreciated.

[@epoxydiy6356]

You may want to pour the low area first and let if cure. Most epoxies call for 1/8-1/4" pour at a time. This should be close to what you have mentioned. Once that has cured/become tacky, you can pour additional layer to build up and cover the stones. What type of epoxy are you using?

[@jeffersongrove]

rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254123561197 Basically this one, it’s a 1:1 clear pour on epoxy gloss coat. Do you think it will look odd if it’s 5mm thicker in the middle? I was thinking if it will I could just either paint it on like a lacquer or just use a clear lacquer?

[@jeffersongrove]

If you have an email, I can sent you a pic of the table to give you an idea? Not sure if you can send pictures on this?

[@Meg.EliteMarketing]

How would you epoxy a raised surface like a fireplace hearth??? ♥️

[@epoxydiy6356]

Hey Meg, do you mean the front/top, what exactly are you trying to apply the epoxy to.

[@Meg.EliteMarketing]

Epoxy DIY the bottom of a fireplace that sticks out BUT sits right on top of the floor (no where to run off!) I have an old floor down now so it’s okay... I will be covering it up lol!

[@epoxydiy6356]

Is this an actual fireplace or just for looks? Will it be producing heat? Many coating epoxies will start to soften around 120°

[@bobbybrowning5898]

If it wasn’t mixed properly, will it eventually cute and harden? We did a second pour and I believe that it wasn’t mixed properly. Now there are some cured spots and some tacky spots... like leave fingerprints tacky.

[@epoxydiy6356]

How long has it been curing? Most likely if it's still tacky, it will probably stay that way. The most common cause of tacky areas is incorrect mixing/ratios. This can happen due to incorrect ratios or if the tacky areas are few and closely congregated; due to not scraping sides and bottom of the container as mixing. As a result, the last of the batch, the sides and bottom of the container which were not properly mixed are the last to leave the container and often at the surface which leave tacky areas. Are the tacky areas thin enough to scrape off? In other words, is the epoxy still liquid enough to scrape off?

[@bobbybrowning5898]

Epoxy DIY so we’ve had it curing for about 5 days and it’s still sticky. Don’t think it was mixed properly. Have been working on scraping the sticky spots and sanding but it’s not really working. Kinda making it worse... HELP!

[@epoxydiy6356]

How large are the areas? How many areas in the project? How large is the entire project? What type of epoxy did you use?

[@roadstar499]

Hi, i coated a PLa 3d print with similar epoxy a day and a half ago... is tacky but not anything like your sample in the video... is there any other way it can be fixed? your method will destroy the statue unfortunately... i am really dis appointed i was sure i added enough hardener...thanks

[@epoxydiy6356]

Unfortunately, if the epoxy is still tacky, it usually needs to be removed and coated again. Is it cold where you are located? You might want to wait a few more days to see if it sets up any better.

[@roadstar499]

@@epoxydiy6356 Yes it was in high 60's when i applied... its been 4 days now and it is less tacky then it was at 2 days... the brush i applied epoxy with is solid and not at all tacky... maybe in a week it may be good.. next time i am using my gram scale so i am sure i mix 50/50 ...thax

[@mporado5377]

I poured a table that cured and was completely dry for at least 2 weeks. Now it is a little sticky in the middle. Any ideas?

[@epoxydiy6356]

This is usually related to incomplete mixing. What type of epoxy did you use and how long did you mix for?

[@razz4taz]

I need help with my table. I've put 3 coats of epoxy on it. Cuz I don't have the money to buy in bulk. Anyway. 3rd layer yes! I'm done. Nope! I've got 2 areas that are kinda sticky. Not much but anyway. How thick of a coat do i need to cover this up? Please help

[@epoxydiy6356]

Is the sticky area thin enough to scrape down? How long did you mix the epoxy for? Normally, spotty tacky areas are from a mixture that was not fully mixed together. Most recommend mixing for 3-5 minutes. Were the first two coats tacky as well? Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make sure I get you the right info.

[@razz4taz]

@@epoxydiy6356 I know it's thin enough however it's not that sticky, more like tacky. It's kinda touchable. I mixed each batch 3 mins. Here's where I probably did wrong. I almost had enough but didn't. I didn't want to buy another kit. This has costed a lot more then planned. I still had a little bit in the bottles from the other kits. Mixed it. Poured it on. I was gonna call it good. Even if you could see a few spots sticking up. Plus my taped cardboard edges are stuck. Can't I just go over the table with another coat?. Table is 2.5ft round. Will the 8 oz (16 oz combined)be enough to cover the top?

[@epoxydiy6356]

What type/brand of epoxy is it? Each has its' own coverage chart. If you go over soft/uncured epoxy it will remain that way. The top coat may cure, but the base layer will remain soft/uncured. With the cardboard/tape you might be able to rip it off as best you can and then sand that area down.

[@harrison298]

I wish mine was that liquid... I'm trying to remove partially cured resin. I mixed it correctly, but it turns out the epoxy I was mixing can't cure below 65 degrees, and I did it in the winter. I wish I could just throw these chairs away and never touch epoxy again.

[@endl3sdrmzz]

I have a question. I have worked with table epoxy several times now. The surface looks great but the side of the table still does not look smooth. It looks like many runs on each side. How do you ensure that each side look smooth after the epoxy cured up?

[@epoxydiy6356]

Working with vertical surfaces can be tricky. As the epoxy is flowing over the sides, you can use a foam brush to make sure the entire side is fully covered. You should do this as the epoxy continues flowing off the side. As the flow is slowing, you can then use a plastic edge or even a stirring stick to run along the underside knocking off the drips. If you do have any drips left after the epoxy has cured, they can be sanded down.

[@endl3sdrmzz]

@@epoxydiy6356 Great tips! I'll be trying it out on my next epoxy project. Thank you so much!

[@Detroitblue]

FYI I am here because I had a tacky Epoxy fail. As mentioned in the video your sander will not sand sticky epoxy so you will have to manually scape it off. How ever applying Acetone with a rag really helped dissolve the uncured epoxy fast. My Ryobi cordless multi tool also was a good aid.

[@epoxydiy6356]

Good to hear, so were you able to remove all of the uncured epoxy?

[@Detroitblue]

Indeed as a matter of fact I was able to dissolve and peel back below a 2 in 1 primer paint which I applied over the 1st layer of epoxy. The 1st layer cured perfectly, however I wanted to fill in some spotty patches with color in order to get a even appearance. This was where things went wrong for me I think. Because I did notice that for some reason the paint had failed to completely dry even after a couple days and I am not sure why. I have seen it done and recommended by others. But anyway I went ahead with the second coat of epoxy which only partially cured as well. But again in patches. Then I wiped the cured epoxy with acetone to remove all left over debris but it didn't effect it. I also used 320 which left it super smooth. I am going to try the paint over again and if it fails I will wipe using the acetone and skip it next time.

[@daniellantz3994]

Long story short I’m trying to finish a countertop for a local record store. I’ve poured all of the countertops and they look great and everything was Shiny and smooth. There were a couple of soots I didn’t like so I sanded them with sandpaper ranging from 240 grit to 2000grit. Now my countertop isn’t shinny and it has small scratches from me sanding. HELP

[@daniellantz3994]

Do I need to just keep wet sanding with the higher grit until I see results?

[@epoxydiy6356]

Daniel, what type of epoxy did you use? You can try to sand up to 3000 grit. You might also want to try to buff with a yellow foam pad and Finess It II (must be #2): amzn.to/37x40jx However, to achieve the highest gloss/shine you should pour a new layer of epoxy over the top.

[@AndyHardCore19]

If the areas are a little tacky and you can’t scrape them, can you just sand them, clean the surface then re-pour?

[@epoxydiy6356]

Its very difficult to sand tacky areas. The epoxy will gum up the sand paper. How large are the tacky areas and are there many spread out throughout the project?

[@AndyHardCore19]

Epoxy DIY they are spread out throughout my project. The funny thing is the epoxy is hard. But just a little tacky in some areas.

[@AndyHardCore19]

They are just small areas by the way. I did my bar top with the epoxy. I did 3 gallons on it. It came out to a quarter inch thick all together. And I was planning on using another batch to get it a little thicker. But I wanted to take care of the sticky spots first

[@epoxydiy6356]

Did you mix 3 Gallons at once? Were they all in the same mixing container? What type of epoxy did you use? Depending on what type of epoxy you used, you might be able to wipe the tacky areas down with something like Isopropyl Alcohol 99% and then sand these areas. Once the tacky areas are removed, you can pour a new layer on the top. If only certain areas are tacky, this is usually a mixing issue. Did you scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you were mixing?

[@Detroitblue]

Just to be clear what is the absolute longest amount of time you should expect to give Epoxy to cure and not be tacky? I am using the Stone Coat product, Floor kit. 2:1 ratio base to hardener. My basement is only about 68 Degrees or so kind of cool. .

[@epoxydiy6356]

Each manufacturer is slightly different. You might want to reach out to them and check to see what the cure time is.

[@Detroitblue]

After reading many comments here I noted that you always asked them for the manufacturer of their epoxy so I wanted to get in front of that and give you all the details. However I actually am aware that the stated cure time is 24 hours. But looking at this repair video I thinking that one Epoxy can't all be that much different from the next . You made a point that you waited " two weeks of drying time" before addressing the examples of tacky results. So I was wondering should I give my stuff much more then 24 hours hoping it will cure more before I strip it off.

[@epoxydiy6356]

A flooring epoxy is different from a coating epoxy like this. The directions/bottle label should indicate how long it should take.

[@Detroitblue]

Thank you for your time. Prehaps it unclear that I my question was not about the nominal drying time of my product but the general wait time to be certain all hope for hardening is lost. I gave it about 6 days and then stripped it off. Thanks again.

[@katinatorrens4633]

How do I start over on a epoxy countertop?

[@epoxydiy6356]

What do you mean by start over? Has the epoxy cured? What is wrong with the countertop?

[@salemkid1979]

@@epoxydiy6356 mines cured quickly like in a day or 2, but isnt 100% even, i just ordered an orbital sander, will this help smooth it to look more like glass?

[@epoxydiy6356]

It will help to remove the imperfections. However, you will likely need to pour a new top coat to get a glossy finish. Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface before pouring an additional coat.

[@salemkid1979]

@@epoxydiy6356 ill do that, i need to also get a blow torch, last time i tried to use a hair dryer as a substitute, hopefully coat #2 will make it look better after sanding and cleaning etc.

[@Optimization_Coach]

How to get scratches out of epoxy countertops? Is there no way without sanding ????

[@epoxydiy6356]

Yes, you can: buff with a yellow foam pad and 3M™ Finesse-it™ II. It must be #2 (VERY IMPORTANT to get #2) amzn.to/2Z8LecJ

[@Optimization_Coach]

@@epoxydiy6356 thanks. Would that be the glaze, polish or compound? A few types it seems

[@Optimization_Coach]

@@epoxydiy6356 ty got it

[@epoxydiy6356]

Awesome. Please let us know how it works out for you.

[@batoulothman6138]

What should I do if i got water in my resin 😭😭😭😭😭😭

[@epoxydiy6356]

It really depends on how much. If it's too much it can set off a reaction.