How to flatten the sole of a plane | Paul Sellers

Paul Sellers shows how to flatten and shape the sole of a bench plane. This technique is the first step once you have bought a new bench plane or have acquired a used plane. without this fairly simple step woodworking planes may not function correctly and may even damage projects or surfaces that you are working on. Also check out this video on sharpening a plane: • Video . To find out more about Paul Sellers or the projects he is involved with visit paulsellers.com .

[@lucktraveler4242]

In Summary: - Back off the iron so it's not protruding at all - Check the tension so it has a nice click down - the tension affects the straightness of the sole - Put many sharpie lines across the sole - Start with course 120 grit - Rub 2 or 3 times - or a few more on anything nice and flat like a granite tile - Remark with sharpie - Rub again - Repeat until it's flat - don't bulldog it. Press down but not so much that you alter the shape of the plane. - Switch to finer 240 grit - That's flat enough for all your planing, but let's do an extra step... - Feather the outside edges by propping up each edge on a steel ruler and stroking about 30 times on the course side - Repeat on the fine stone. - Put heel on steel rule, and swivel the front edge to make it feathered in as well - File off the half moon of the heel - Now use the fine sandpaper and smooth over each corner to keep it from gouging any of your work! - Done!

[@chriscox52282]

Took me a minute....didn't know why I needed to put a heel on my machinists rule. Then I realized the heel is part of the hand plane as well, haha. Always a learning curve, even with vocabulary. I'm just glad I can stop trying to get to the center. Haha

[@JoeWalsh786]

Still relevant 12 years later! Thanks for posting.

[@PhoseCraft]

Great video. I have made my students flatten the soles of their planes for a few years now, using the same method. After seeing this example, I will be asking them to relieve the edges too. So refreshing to see great quality demonstrations of traditional techniques on KZbin. Keep up the good work Mr Sellers.

[@kristopherdavis5824]

Wat grits would you reconmend?

[@sorianobhong9288]

Dear Mr. Sellers, I just want you to know that I really admire your works.. I love wood working and I've learned a lot from your videos.. how I wish I could meet you in person. please don't stop posing your videos. GOD bless you.

[@RobRobertson1000]

Thanks. hadn't thought of the importance of leaving the hardware in to replicate the conditions and tensions when actually planing.

[@labrat7357]

Hi, I like that side relief idea. Thanks. I have lots of planes but my favorite is an old Stanley No 5 that had a back corner broken off, so I cut it back to aprox No4 length but got rid of that silly half moon bit by only cutting back to 1/4 inch behind the handle and shapping to the same smooth radius of a No5 with no half moon bit. I like the feel of it and it's a nicer plane to use than a standard No 4. I do not understand why some manufacturer does not just make them that way. All the best.

[@ForestWoodworks]

Every time I think I've watched the oldest PS video on restoring or bringing back a hand plane, BAM! Thanks YT!

[@deadnthehead4557]

Damn, man I have been trying to flatten out my cheap box store plane for days, and I have spent literal hours using sandpaper. I know it's a cheap plane, but I took it as a challenge to try and make it work decent. The sole had grooves, not scratches but grooves that were perpendicular to the block. I'm still working at it when I have spare time, but you made this look so easy

[@jmpurser]

I found once I stuck a sheet of 100 grit to the tile I could just lay another sheet on top and the grit of the first sheet would grab the second enough to hold it still for planing. Saved me a lot of time and glue in a rather long session today.

[@joshjenkinson1929]

Thought I’d share some good info on flattening I’ve learned through experience.... Be careful with thin flat surfaces - they flex very easily, creating a belly in the sole of the plane. A great solution that creates a perfectly flat and inflexible surface for relatively little cost is to use float glass glued on top of a thick layer of plywood (I used 8 pieces of 3/4” ply glued together). Use a thick layer of PVA glue or epoxy so that the float glass has nowhere to bend into the plywood surface once the glue cures.

[@davidmiller2201]

I did it, I took an old Corsair plane, loooks like a #4, sanded the bottom, it took 2 hours at least, and had to use 80 grit because somebody had filed a little bit off the mouth but I took it down to flat then went yo 120 and 220. I sharpened the blade from 400 to 8, 000 after taking all the nicks out of it on a mechanical grinder. I put it all together took a test on pine scrap and got everything leveled out took a beautiful cut and it leaves a beautiful finish. I went to my oak which I'm making a mallet from. It took out all of the heavy saw lines from my table saw and the other side had a finish or something on it and it took it right off within 10 strokes everything was smooth both sides. It would have taken taken me an hour to sand all this down as deep as those saw marks were but the plane took care of it in abut 7 minutes. 4 pieces 3 1/2 " X 3 1/2" I want to thank you guys for all you've taught me and anybody out there wants to know, these techniques work and I've learned something new. Again thanks.

[@johnmeeley7940]

Seven years and to this day relevant. Thank you, Paul.

[@rider660r]

It's been relevant since the 1st plane was made......not just the last 8 yrs..

[@jurikristjouw]

10 and counting i guess 🙂

[@Paul.Sellers]

Definitely file off the corners to 'ease' them, but feathering the edge in as shown by elevating slightly on cardboard or a ruler replicates what has happened to older, well-used planes and it's this that makes the p[lane so comfortable in use. I am about to release a more extensive blog on this and other aspects of the #4 plane so watch put for that. We will do another filming session on it too, to clear up ambiguity.

[@savethebrits91]

Such a great video, very easy. Short and well explained

[@watermain48]

Always a pleasure to learn from you sir...thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@Paul.Sellers]

You need both. Both of these planes have a great function for us. $ 1/2" for wider and slightly heavier work without the mass of the modern-day heavyweights. Both 4 and 4 1/2 are lightweight bantams in the mix of things and you can do far more with them than any other plane. Watch pur upcoming videos for more.

[@mamaflux]

Paul, what kind of sand paper are you using in the video? How do you make it stick to the granite tile? Strange questions but it beats me. Thanks for the useful videos and keep the workbench series coming!

[@ekwinix]

Just picked up a Stanley No 4 and am going to prepare it using this technique. Thanks Paul.

[@jimbo2629]

Great video. Years ago one of my Stanleys was a poor plane. I couldn’t believe how far off flat the sole was when I got round to checking. No KZbin in those days. I put it on my long belt sander with a worn out 80 grit belt. I sanded it till I got even fine scratch marks. It took about two minutes. The result was a dramatic improvement. I wonder how flat the sanding surface is when gluing paper to granite or glass, as we are assuming the paper is constant thickness. This makes me wonder if it is worth going higher than 250 grit.

[@awbg34q23g2]

I love Paul Sellers. Don't need no darn flattening stone, got this piece of granite tile left over from the kitchen remodel...

[@briarfox637]

+awbg34q23g2 As long as its flat and stays flat

[@jrmym2]

+awbg34q23g2 I use a discarded foot stone... yes, kinda macabre...

[@stevereid4525]

Mister Sellers i have watched so many of your videos i feel like i have known you all my life.I have recently been bitten by the hand plane bug. I started out with one a buddy of mine gave me and I now have eight. some were flea market finds.anyway with you and your videos help I have just about got them all shaving nicely. I to wish i could meet you and shake your very talented hand. Thank you.and may GOD bless you. Steve

[@88stds]

Mr. Sellers, you make woodworking so delicious.

[@Zepheriah]

Aww you're kidding me. I spent about an hour today grinding down an old #4 with a dipped edge. Now I ought to go and put the dipped edge back on.

[@tomalcolm]

Best video on the subject. Love it.

[@headknocker8999]

Thanks again for the great tips Paul.. My Stanley No 4C, 9 1/2, Bailey No 6C, & Bedrock 602 are gonna get some attention..

[@robertw.1499]

Hi Paul, I only rediscovered my passion for woodworking just three years ago. I‘m 61. I have purchased many tools over the last couple of years, mostly good quality. I‘m looking to buy either a number four or five plane, not sure however which make. Lee Nielsen and Veritas are quite expensive and I‘m not sure I wish to make that investment for something I wouldn‘t use very often. You showed a Stanley No. 4 here. What do you think of Stanley quality these days? I remember my school had Stanley planes, some 45 years ago. I have heard they are now made outside The UK and the quality has suffered. I watched your restoration of an old wooden body plane recently. Gave me some good tips for the old ones I purchased a couple of years ago. Your thoughts would be appreciated, thanks 👍

[@usd25674]

Tremendous information. Thanks for your posting

[@jmpurser]

I just finished flattening a newer (20 years old?) #4 that had hardly been used before being stored. I started with 100 grit sandpaper stuck to a large flat tile with GM Super 77. I did two runs of 100 strokes but was just barely making a dent in removing the marker lines. I switched to 60 grit and went another couple of thousand strokes before it was done. Very nice looking plane now but WOW my arms are tired.

[@TheLastPharm]

I have a question and I sincerely hope someone can help, but is this flattening process the same for older style planes with a corrugated sole? I just bought a Stanley that was made in 1931 and I want to put it to good use. Thanks in advance!

[@blackfender100]

Great tips as always Paul thank you.

[@Paul.Sellers]

Yes, coat them periodically with furniture wax or better still Boshield. Boshield is a developed product used on aircraft and lasts much longer as a rust preventative. There are other oils such as camelia oil but Boshield does the trick. Google a spray can.

[@jndnbrr]

Mr. Sellers I really enjoy your videos! Having said that, I am wondering what grit are you using for the coarse and fine abrasives? Thank you.

[@LewiUberg]

Do you do classes? Thinking about taking my family on a trip to England, and since there aren’t much furniture/cabinet making courses here I Norway I was thinking maybe someone in England was still doing something like that?

[@darkdoink]

Mr. Sellers, I have one more question. I am a home builder and I do almost all the work involved in the construction process. That said, my planes don't always get used, and they tend to get a little rust on my freshly flattened soles and sides over time (I flatten the sides using the same process, just for looks). Is there anything I can do to help slow or even prevent rust from forming during the time I'm not using them?

[@mukymik6414]

Very good video, who would have thought about relieving the edges?

[@darkdoink]

Mr Sellers, if I were to take a file to the edges of the sole, are the side and front reliefs worth while, or is filing the edges not a good practice?

[@BETAmosquito]

I picked up a stanley #4 with what appears to be a twist in the sole. Put it in a flat surface and it rocks just like a twisted board, leaving at least 2mm of space between the front corner and the surface. Would it be possible to to flatten it uaing this technique, or is it a write off?

[@Offshoreorganbuilder]

Thanks for your clear and helpful presentation.

[@leemarrett]

I have an old Record 4 1/2 -- now I'm seeing you're happiest with your #4, do you think I should get a #4 or am I just as able to do everything I need with my 4 1/2?

[@geeborg6912]

Hej Paul, Just wondering if there any negatives regarding flattening the sole of a plane using a 300 / 1000 grit Diamond Sharpening Stone, such as those used by James Barry. The reason for enquiring is that most of the KZbin videos demonstrate sharpening plane soles using sandpaper, but I’ve never seen anyone using a Diamond Sharpening Stone. Your comments / advice would be appreciated. Med Vänliga Hälsningar

[@DeWaltCarpenterUK]

Hi, Mr Sellers i recently came by a few Stanley and Record planes 2 Smoothing planes and 2 Jointer planes and i was looking at reconditioning them as their a bit of a mess and i was wondering what you glued your sandpaper onto to flatten the sole's of the planes.

[@ExpiredToast11]

he said in this one he used a granite tile. theres another video where he uses plate glass to sharpen a blade

[@markobrien4940]

Hi paul have you noticed the quality of the steel in stanley planes these days the quailty is not as good as the old stanley planes the same for marples chisels pity they are using cheaper materials in these highly branded names of hand tools whats your view on that mark

[@JohnJohnson-go1hw]

Paul, you appear to have a bench plane fetish! ;-) In regard to bench planes, in all the time I did high class cabinetmaking, I never used anything other than a No.5 1/2 and a No.7! Add a couple of Clifton shoulder planes and a low-angle adjustable-mouth block plane to that and I NEVER felt under-equipped. Each to their own, though, and it's a pleasure to see someone passionate about the subject and about teaching others. All the best.

[@leonardnoel888]

MAGIC. THANK YOU.

[@gordslater]

sometimes sold as "photo adhesive" for mounting photographs to backing boards (matts) Don't try to use the stringy/lumpy construction-grade spray adhesive. Learn from my fail :) So obvious in hindsight but had me confused for 5+ minutes one sleepy afternoon

[@uptish1]

Excellent Sir!! very informative !!! Thanks a lot sir!!

[@jaddle]

Ooof. I did everything in this 7 minute video, and 2 hours, and four sheets of sandpaper later, the plane is almost flat. I think maybe this well-used tool was just a little bit more worn out than I had thought, and a lot more than the one in the video! I should have used coarser sandpaper, at least to start!

[@chrischurch4551]

Yeah, I haven't bought a used tool yet that I didn't wish i started at 80 grit

[@mkamp]

Paul, great video. As always. Give that you say it's fine to only have one plane I am wondering if there is any way to stick with the simplicity theme and use your diamond plates to do the job? Maybe even only the 250 plate when taken out of the holder? Thanks.

[@kurasoe]

Mariano Kamp The diamond plates will go down fast, especially the 250, when trying to flatten the back or sole of a tool. The paper on a guaranteed flat surface is best and leave the diamond plates for sharpening and honing your edges.

[@mkamp]

Benjamin Fisher Alright, no way around getting the glas plate too then. Thanks.

[@kurasoe]

You can also get a nice granite surface plate from Wood River at Amazon or Woodcraft for less than $40.

[@briarfox637]

+Mariano Kamp I bought the granite plate from woodcraft a couple years ago. Love it.

[@Keithmwalton]

I’m working on a 5 1/2. The entire sole is flat except the last inch and a quarter of the heel. It rises up a lot. I can fit a feeler gauge .005 inch in it. Is this an issue?

[@ForestWoodworks]

I'm only replying with info I've learned watching Paul, not trying to be an expert. I think you're actually good because the back is the area where he talks about having an eased edge anyway so the heal doesn't catch on your work when you're pulling the plane back after a forward stroke. In other videos, he also talks about the area around the throat being the most important as well. Overall, I think it's the forward areas of the plane that are engaging and referencing the work surface, not the heal. Hope this helps and I hope I explained well enough, and accurate. Feel free to correct me though 😇

[@BensWorkshop]

Have you considered re-doing this video now that you have better camera equipment? (Not that it matters as it does convey the information).

[@solobassoon]

Occasionally a plane is used at a shooting board. How do you make sure that the sole is made perpendicular to the side of the plane? Is there a method for that?

[@rabfulton4729]

+Hans Henrik Larsen If you are shooting to join two pieces you can shoot one board face up and one face down to cancel any error.

[@andrewford80]

You only need the blade to be perpendicular, apparently. Use the blade adjuster to do so.

[@jimbo2629]

You can use a wooden plane and easily square up the side to the sole. Also they present a good side area to stop wobble.

[@silvermediastudio]

Assuming the blade is square in the plane (you have to check this), use a machinists' square to check if the sides are square to the sole. If not, either adjust it, or compensate for it with the blade adjuster. A machinists' square is very useful even for woodworking. You don't need a $100 Starrett, $30 gets you a nice one.

[@ratansharma951]

First of all my regards to you, Master Woodworker. You can flatten the sole on even a rock I presume. I am not a woodworking person, but have watched your videos, very attentively. It is knowledge mixed with humility. However, in the present video, you say you are working on a granite block (due to flatness). To me it appears an MDF or similar board, shaking violently as you are working, which seems against your principle of flatness. May be nothing for a master like you, but difficult for a rookie. If ever I am able to learn anything a lots of credit would go to you, and of course to our real Master, Mother Nature.

[@headknocker8999]

I'm gonna try the Boshield & try it on my table saw too.. Thanks for that tip too..

[@neriyahoren3580]

Where can we write questions to Paul?

[@edgarmilson8686]

Hello Paul, I noticed the board your paper is on keeps rocking about an 1/8 of an inch or more. Does that affect your ability to flatten this plane?

[@stevejohnson1685]

He's using a granite tile, which is very flat & rigid. The whole tile is rocking up and down, so the surface it's presenting to the sole of the plane is still flat, relative to the plane.

[@Bennetts74]

Great video

[@Paul.Sellers]

Light mist of spray adhesive on back of paper. I used 3M sandpaper. Nothing special. !50 then 240 and finish. no point doing more. Wood is abrasive too and that will smooth up the plane sole and sometimes roughen it so no point going finer.

[@k3ith29]

I messed up and bought a corrogated hand plane😞

[@balbino108]

Very Good! Thank You!

[@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549]

Oh great Paul! Now I have to go and flatten my flattened planes. LOL! Thanks!

[@shaihal9090]

Hi, Mr. Sellers. i want to buy old STANLEY plane no 5. it will be my first hand plane. what do you think about quality of STANLEY 5? thank you.

[@johnpurser2798]

QUALITY wise the Stanley Bailey planes are the same, made by the same company, abused or cared for by the same people, and sold by the same honest to dishonest people. What changes with the size is the length, width, and weight of the plane along wiht how suitable the plane is for specific purposes. Personally I like the longer #5 Bailey planes (the Jack Plane with a 2" wide iron) better than the #4s (Smoothing Plane). They just fit my hand and feel right to me. I would take care to avoid the "#5 1/4" planes. These were narrower Jack planes made as I understand it mostly for trade schools. You're getting the width of a #3 plane (also a smoother) but the weight of a #5. The #5 1/2 however has an iron that's a full 2 3/8" wide and is a good, but heavy plane. The #4 (2" wide iron) and the #4 1/2 (2 3/8" wide) are excellent smoother planes and if you watch a lot of Paul's videos you'll see him do EVERYTHING you can do with a plane with a simple #4 or #4 1/2. I hope thay helps. John

[@shaihal9090]

John Purser thank you

[@TheJagm80]

Hello Mr Sellers, can I use this thecnique with a #6 plane?

[@kurasoe]

Al Gonis This should work with any bailey pattern plane including all the Stanley's.

[@TheJagm80]

Benjamin Fisher Thanks!

[@briarfox637]

+Al Gonis In fact, the plane he is demonstrating on is the Bailey.

[@mercoid]

pure gold

[@bigpardner]

I'm confused. How do you back the iron out with the lever locked?

[@johnpurser2798]

bigpardner, the lever cap should not lock the iron and iron cap down so tightly that the adjusting nut (the brass knob in the back of the frog) cannot move the blade. If you're experiencing difficulty moving the iron when the lever cap is fastened down then you've likely got the lever cap screw screwed in too far. As Paul mentioned the lever cap should "snap" down but it shouldn't take a lot of force to do this. Or perhaps your iron and frog aren't smooth enough where they meet to allow easy adjustment. I hope this helps. John

[@herminigildojakosalem8664]

I hear you've made changes to your audio capture set-up. I'm sorry but I must say I miss the "old" quality of your audio. I will continue watching though as I have to "see" what you have to say. Thank you still, Mr. Sellers.

[@knightlylad]

Thank you for a great tip, problem solved!.

[@814h8]

Currently grinding away on a #6. Taking me ages.

[@Compl33tR4nd0mZ]

Paul, can you please do a video on Japanese wooden block planes and Japanese saws if possible? Thank you :-)

[@Mr_Rick]

awesome!!

[@louiscypher7090]

in your sharpening video you said that it's not good practice to lay the plane on its side. do as I say not as I do type thing? just giving you a hard time.

[@briarfox637]

+Louis Cypher He mentions why its not good practice; it was developed as a practice for schulerin because they would damage the plane irons. Craftsman were rarely seen lying it on its side. I've personally always sat it down on the sole and never had a problem. The benchtop will not damage the plane iron. It really can't.

[@headknocker8999]

+Briar Fox Unless the table is metal & the blade isn't retracted then the side would be the way.. Paul is great & knows more than most..

[@bountyumbara8199]

When a Stanley plane is put it on its side, its horizontal weight slightly changes the setting, also the crucial parts of the plane often accidentally bump on something small that wasn't seen before on the bench, then the plane needs to be re-adjust over and over, mostly while it's being used. This video is about the sole, anything changes on the adjustment won't matter. And the sole was marked anyway.

[@chrisdugger9527]

I've been using my plane for 2 years now. Better get to flattening the sole instead of throwing it in the garbage.

[@Brother-617]

How would you use this plane on a shooting board? Don't you need the edges to be flat for that application?

[@sigung01]

Amazing, who knew.

[@Kikilang60]

Thanks.

[@AndrewWilkersonAWC]

He says in the video. 120 and 240grit.

[@beepIL]

I do not understand why any other manufacturer can produce flat surfaces for so many other products around us, and we need to "accept" a reality where a woodworking tool such as a plane would need to be flattened by us rather than expect the manufacturer to deliver a proper flat sole to begin with, why do i need to be the one to complete the manufacturing process? I don't get this... Would you be fine with having to flatten a table saw fence for example? no... Why are we fine with flattening plane soles?

[@InfectedByEli]

I think this video was for re-flattening old planes.

[@laikmiandu]

why dont you flatten the sole of the plane on your diamond stones? Are they too small?

[@PineappleOranges]

My guess is that he wanted a coarser grit. The diamond stones he has are 250, 600, and 1200, respectively.

[@nowerries]

my experience to the dmt diasharp stones tend to load up when lapping tools, I use sandpaper as well. The dmt duosharps with the polkadot pattern work better for lapping, but then with those I find that they wear fast.

[@adamlynch4607]

The reason for using abrasive paper is it's a lot cheaper than diamond stones. I find modern diamond stones including DMT Diasharp wear quite quickly so clogging them up with flattening planes as well as the wear is not advisable. That said I always do my spoke shaves on the diamond stones.

[@maktaki7843]

6 no rende hediye eder misin

[@rjlundeen]

Magic Marker, not a sharpie.

[@alangeorgebarstow]

Other felt-tip marking pens are available: many of them being superior in quality to "Sharpies" and "Magic Markers".