How to Flush Your Brakes Using Motive Bleeder - 370Z

[@whackozakko]

Per FSM: Proper bleed order = Rear Right, Front Left, Rear Left, Front Right. Ignition should be off and negative battery terminal should be disconnected to prevent damage to the ABS actuator. Also, I strongly recommend you use a GOOD 8mm flare nut wrench (this car uses metric measurements) instead of a 5/16 combination wrench. The banjo bolt used to bleed the brake caliper is extremely susceptible to being rounded off using a combination wrench, unless you use the box end. Using the proper bleed procedures and tools ensures you'll get the job done correctly.

[@videomaniac108]

Yes, it would be fine to use the 8 mm wrench size but the 5/16" size wrench is 7.9375 mm and will not be a problem, as long as the wrench fits over the flats of the bleed nipple fully without having to be forced.

[@XenomorphLV426]

What happens if you do the wrong order?

[@InCountry6970]

This is the first Motive bleeder video that explains the air you see in the line from the pump to the master cylinder. Thanks for explaining that, I thought it had to have all fluid in the tube. Good job

[@irokdayellup]

This, a thousand percent.

[@Wrangler98]

And the only video that recommended to top off your reservoir with new prior to hooking up the bleeder, made sense to me

[@kaj750]

FWIW: I highly recommend putting the box end of the wrench on the bleeder, then then tubing. You really don't want to want to strip that sucker.

[@videomaniac108]

I highly recommend your suggestion.

[@harisbuza8862]

kaj750 or a pipe spanner if handy

[@swissarmychainsawadams9541]

Good idea. I loosen mine with a socket first. If it's an older car, I put penetrating oil on the bleeder screw the day before.

[@kevinrose4975]

@kaj750 Is there a link for a visual reference to what you're advising? I want to understand.

[@kevinrose4975]

Another question, should I flush my brakes before replacing rotors?

[@K03sport]

hmmm, your motive power bleeder builds pressure a lot faster than mine. my bleeder is from 2009-2010, but it takes a lot more pumps to get to 10 psi than it took yours. Anyway, after several uses, I've decided to use it dry vs putting fluid in it. for all of those putting fluid in their bleeder, I suggest finding a way (a bunder or string from the hood) to hold the hose as vertical as possible to allow the air trapped in the hose, and reservoir, to make its way up. also, not covered in this video, is teflon tape on the fitting threads btwn the pump and the adapter section of hose. Also, expect the hose to fail after about 5 years (ask me how I know...)

[@roninmantis7584]

Seems like this would be less cleanup, but may take a little longer. Still I think I would spend the extra time.

[@RedondoBeach2]

Based on your admitted nervousness about successfully completion of the job 16:55, why accelerate to this speed 17:24 without being 100% certain the brakes work properly? For others who might be watching this video, and who might also be uncertain of your own work, do yourself a favor; test the brakes several times at speeds below 10 mph in an area with little/no traffic or pedestrians. Press the brake pedal hard at low speeds initially to build pressure in the brake lines and test for leaks. Then pull over, check for leaks, check the master cylinder fluid level again, and then briefly try testing the brakes at higher speeds. Afterwards, check for leaks again, and check the fluid level again. Regarding wheels: aftermarket wheels only reduce resale value. Stick with factory components or buy a car that has factory wheels that you like.

[@twiki1559]

I would cover everything (especially the master cylinder) with rags/blankets as "splatter/spray guards". We're talking pressurized brake fluid here. And the rags could possibly save a paint job and would only be a minor inconvenience. I love my 82 911 too much to take the risk. I just got my Motive bleeder a couple days ago. Can't wait to use it. Great video. Thanks

[@videomaniac108]

I would recommend using either the box end of the combo wrench or a flare wrench, for better engagement of the bleed nipple with 6-points of contact versus the 2-points of contact with the two parallel prongs of the wrench you used. These bleeder nipples are typically made of cheap and soft metal with flats whose points will round easily under the high torque you might have to exert to break free a nipple whose threads have some corrosion on them. Two point contact places a lot more stress on those points, making them tend to round. Using a pressure bleeder like that is the way to go when flushing brakes, better than the 2-person pump or the vacuum method at the bleed nipple. I've never been able to get brakes bled properly with the vacuum method, because of the tendency of air to escape past the threads of the bleeder nipple even after I'd applied Teflon tape to the threads. On the subject of good wheels for the Z: I am in the process of installing a set of forged magnesium monoblock wheels from Litespeed Racing in LA. They're painted to match the color of my car and are super lightweight, 14 lbs vs the 23 lbs for the forged aluminum(19 x 9J & 19 x 10J) Rays Engineering OEM wheels on my sport model. The only problem is that they're extremely expensive. The wheels are highly engineered for strength and light weigh with vey thin spokes that will allow your brake calipers to stand out in the calipers are painted a bright contrasting color. My car is a very glossy all black with wheels to match and so the red Akebono sport brakes really pop, especially with these new wheels. The model of these wheels is the RS5 RR, which is available in a wide range of colors and finishes. Another thing to note is the effect of the choice of tires on this car. I'm running Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2(240) tires that are a kind of transitional tire between a full-bore track tire and a maximum performance street tire. The only caveat in using them is that they're not good in standing water, necessitating careful steering inputs and brake applications but otherwise fine for daily driving. They're about 6 lbs lighter than the OEM Bridgestone Potenza S007 tires that the car came with when new. I believe this is due in part to the use of lightweight Aramid fiber in the belt plies vs the steel belts that most tiremakers use. This takes mass away from the point where we most want it removed, the outer circumference of the tire that reduces the moment of inertia the most. These particular tires also have stiffer sidewalls as compared to Michelin's Pilot Sport 4S, thus improving steering response. The tires also have a better transient response to impulse loads from the road.

[@1dlb]

sweet exhaust note .... that fluid looks pretty clean to start !!

[@shawnb50]

I know this is old but I have been looking for confirmation that these pressure bleeders will actually fill and flush a completely empty/dry system. Logically it seems like it should when I think about how it works but in practice Im unsure if it will waste brake fluid or need an excessive amount with the master cylinder starting dry. Also, if they if the master cylinder is dry, when you are pressure bleeding, would it make sense to pump the brake pedal while under pressure to get air trapped in the master out, or will it get out without pressing the pedal at all, and if do press the pedal will it potentially cause a problem where you could potentially push pressure back the wrong way or something, idk... I'm not an expert on how brake systems work or even how hydraulic systems work but I really would like to know what to expect before attempting, as I have never seen any videos discussing these things in much detail. I would prefer not having to prime the master cylinder the way I have seen described as proper without this pump, but at the same time I don't want to second guess if the thing actually bled my brakes safely and properly. Also I have heard doubts that this works for the clutch well enough but I again have not heard any explanation to why, it seems like the clutch would be a simpler system to bleed than the brakes, all I can think is that you may have to potentially press the clutch pedal down for some reason no matter what to get things flowing right, idk honestly.

[@sick370zvlogs]

I’ve done brake flushes and stuff but for other cars but when it comes to my car I’m really nervous haha thanks for the video ! I also have the movie bleeder

[@AsianBlackR3501]

You could use a funnel to fill the brake fluid.Your old brake fluid does not look that dirty. Otherwise, it is good DIY video.

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

Your OLD used brake fluid looks like my NEW brake fluid! Good contraption, but it won't fit on my 92 GMC truck. If you decide to work on your car more, get the 18V 1/2" Ryobi impact driver. Buy the 4 AH battery pack. It has saved me lots of time and sore arms. Home Depot I think... Get your impact sockets at Harbor Freight.

[@GC2560]

Again, unless you have changed all four sets of pads, you needed to have checked what the fluid level was before you started. You need to have the new fluid at that level. Fluid leve in the master cylinder is a guide to wear on your pads. Topping it up to full negates the level marks. Just a thought.

[@e_desta]

Good video, well done. One thing I would have done would be, I would put plastic cover under or use a hospital bedding protection cover to prevent spills; works very well as they are designed to stop any major leaks. Just a suggestion.

[@videomaniac108]

I have a 2019 370Z sport coupe 6M with 19" Rays forged aluminum wheels(245 F, 275 R) and the car handles great. The OEM tire is the Bridgestone Potenza S007 and they have fantastic grip. I would recommend checking out the Volk racing wheel section at Rays Engineering. I'm planning on probably getting Potenza RE-71Rs to replace my tires soon. I think that the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S would be a good choice for this car.

[@MRM-wp4gr]

It looks like this would work without putting any brake fluid in the Motive tank. Probably just air pressure would do the same thing as long as you start the bleed with the master cylinder reservoir full when starting each wheel.

[@TomKrall]

it does.

[@kaj750]

Yes. Then remove the Motive cap from the reservoir to add any additional fluid. I like doing it dry because I waste FAR less of my expensive fluid and there is also less mess!

[@jamesdewer]

Ya, you don't want to under fill. Any f up at the caliper and it's do over?

[@mattpkp]

Umm you can't save or reuse brake fluid. Once the container is opened it is garbage.

[@MOORESKILLZ96]

I think the FSM says to disconnect ABS sensor or the battery before flushing brakes.

[@thecarizon504]

Maybe, I have not had an issue but I will look into this next time.

[@WrongFromWright]

@@thecarizon504 Its true. Disconnect the battery or abs sensor. Also, for G's and Z's, Rear Right, Left Front, Front Right, Rear Left.

[@yphanolim2703]

Do you have to apply the emergency brake when doing this work?

[@thecarizon504]

No but it's good practice to do so when jacking the car up. Only time you absolutely shouldn't is when changing your pads/rotors.

[@yphanolim2703]

The Carizon thank you so much sir.

[@jamesdewer]

Typically the ebrake is cable actuated. If you yank off the disk either front or rear, (differs by manu.). You'll see a secondary set of mini brake shoes. Yah, I know it's pretty neat. There's a drum brake within the disk.

[@myg35rage23]

Subscribed. How many liter of brake fluid did you use?

[@chiliewhilie84]

Are the akebono considered sports breaks

[@DaytonaBlueHr]

Would this be the same for a 350z Hr (07-08) and would this bleeder fit the the brake master cylinder?

[@kevinrose4975]

Im using the Motul rf 660, how many bottles of brake fluid is needed for this process?

[@j.a.3138]

do you have to pump the brakes if you have this kit?

[@thecarizon504]

No, this illeminates the need to pump your brakes to bleed the fluid.

[@catdog4723]

Nice video! Thanks

[@Z33Garage]

Wheels: Black RPF1s /thread :D

[@andrewyu3]

Awesome explanation. Thanks for adding useful videos for the DIY'er.

[@zumik83]

There is a lot of wasted brake fluid in this video. On the first caliper, yeah, you need to let it drain more because of what's left in the reservoir and the ABS pump, but for the other callipers you only need a fraction of what you drained from that first one, because the reservoir and ABS pump is already flushed. You only need to flush the brake fluid that's in the lines on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th calliper and that's very little amount. 1.5 L should be enough, 800 ml + 300 ml + 200 ml + 200 ml, maybe even less than that.

[@sundancer3700]

Agreed, But he is using the cheap stuff. We just used Motul Dot 4 for a track day and two 500ml bottles at $520 filled the system flush

[@jeffreysantos9070]

Stick with black wheels. 20" will be awesome!! Btw very good video 👍

[@alanchanthavisouk8557]

What do u used to clean your motive bleeder?

[@whackozakko]

Turn it upside down over a catch pan and use brake cleaner spray and let it air dry (don't use any towels that are going to leave lint in it).

[@bennett4881]

I am soooooo sad that you hadn't decided to do this exact video for the Akebono big brakes instead of the base ones. Believe it or not, the fact that the Akebono calipers have two bleeder valves each truly lodges a wrench in the gears of my understanding of this process. I do recall that you mentioned how in the scenario of bleeding the bigger brakes, that you must bleed the outside facing valve first before the inside facing valve. And yes you are correct that you start with the farthest caliper and do so in chronological order from farthest to closest. A question: • how exactly had you determined when to tighten the bleeder valve after loosening it and allowing the old fluid to fill the container? It seems as if you simply closed the valve once you observed the old fluid reach near the top of the container, but this confuses me because there doesn't seem to be any clear designation as to when you should close that valve and move onto the next one.

[@henrycruz45cal]

He bleed out too much. You bleed till you see clear fluid coming out of the Caliber

[@amac8487]

Ok guys... stoplight... Hahahaha. I can imagine the anxiety. Great video man!

[@WrongFromWright]

The "catch can" should be below the bleeder valve.

[@whackozakko]

When using positive pressure, it's not important. The air bubbles will travel up the tube more easily than down the tube and you're not risking back flow as long as pressure is maintained in the power bleeder.

[@garfieldshirley4263]

Thanks for this post, great video

[@jamesdewer]

After I'm done I spray the weeds

[@godvsevolutionmythgodvsevo1038]

Why do you have the catch container in the up position instead of below ?

[@thecarizon504]

The pressure fron the bleeder means it doesn't matter if it's above or below the caliper.

[@TrillYungWavy]

The motive bleeder is a game changer

[@miked2503]

Anyone ever seen a cleaner engine bay?

[@sublime660]

most likely metric too lol !!! the right size will help !!

[@arrow_head24]

How much new brake fluid bottles you ended up using?

[@thecarizon504]

1.5L

[@edcreasia8961]

Hey, where did you get your recovery bottle with the magnet attached to it ? I looked on Amazon and didn't find one with a magnet. Maybe I can super glue one on. I would appreciate it if you could tell me where you got yours. Thanks, and great vid.

[@thecarizon504]

I can't find the EXACT one, but Longacre model no. 52-45200 is pretty much the same thing.

[@edcreasia8961]

@@thecarizon504 I finally found one on Amazon... allstar performance ALL11017 with magnet and check valve.

[@BernardManansala]

That is a CLEAN 370Z Do you even drive that thing?

[@titito14ify]

So is this the same process when you install the Akebono upgrade?

[@thecarizon504]

You'll want to do this after installing the akebono's, yes.

[@titito14ify]

Awesome, thank you, you’ve probably said this before but what direction do slotted and drilled rotors go?

[@okaythen001]

Is there an exact amount of brake fluid to bleed from each corner?

[@1dlb]

just until it runs clear ... not that long - the first side passenger rear takes the longest

[@03056932]

If nissan recommends having the engine running on flushes with the 370 like they do the 350, did you not because your pressure pump negates the need for it? I may well be wrong but I thought their suggestion was for abs system purging reasons?

[@WrongFromWright]

Bottle should be below the caliper, it's a 10mm, and the sports model had 2 piston calipers in the rear and 4 piston calipers in the front. Both front and rear calipers has 2 bleed nipples.

[@leontube007]

Nice work! Beginners luck

[@LosAngeIesCA]

I think it’s a 8mm if I’m not mistaken hahah I never used a SAE wrench on my Z

[@thecarizon504]

Yeah it is most likely metric but I didn't have a metric wrench small enough (definitely not 8mm, maybe 6?)

[@MOORESKILLZ96]

@@thecarizon504 Try using a brake line wrench or flare nut wrench

[@gookiecrunch]

You creating a close loop by blocking the y tubing... you need it open for air pressure to pass through.

[@GC2560]

You had the correct spanner, and you used the wrong end. Suggest also, that you use split ring spanners. Easier to get on and off. Open ended spanners have a tendency to strip the edges if not used correctly or sized properly. By the way what did you do at University?

[@thecarizon504]

That's funny, I have used the closed end of the cresent wrench in subsequent brake jobs. Must have slipped my mind when I was doing it in this video. Also I study Electeical Engineering.

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

@@thecarizon504 Looks like you are doing ok. Get in a career field that could last 40 years! Don't work 40, though..Have fun, make good money, save it, invest it and retire early. ( make more videos)

[@williamnickerson7166]

Jump fluid into an open oil container ... may be easier.

[@husky500cr]

Good video. Step by step, a lot of the other videos are skipping steps that you are showing.

[@johno7149]

that's not a shade tree mechanics garage, looks to sterile!

[@nicksharrow4408]

right rear...then left rear...right front than left front

[@jckgoldness]

Nick Sharrow rear right, front left, rear left, front right...

[@iamher6422]

Good vid, but why would you even take off without testing your brakes first. Pull out of your driveway and brake & go. The Main Street is somewhere you DO NOT want to test your brakes.. 🤷🏽‍♀️

[@henrycruz45cal]

Next time just bleed till you see clear fluid coming out of the caliber. You wasted a lot of fluid.

[@AntLive29]

Video should be 4 minutes TOPS

[@gateslattes4686]

Fucking Nissan bring it to a mechanic They don’t charge a lot for Nissans