How to French polish your guitar. Video 4 of 9.

[@octoBadger]

Pablo teaching French polishing is my happy place.

[@SC-SA]

I have never seen such a detailed and clear instruction. Thanks a lot.

[@ahmadronald6389]

I realize I am kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good website to watch new series online?

[@rowanmiguel8435]

@Ahmad Ronald Flixportal xD

[@ahmadronald6389]

@Rowan Miguel thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) Appreciate it!

[@rowanmiguel8435]

@Ahmad Ronald you are welcome :D

[@stumans78]

About to polish my first solo build. So been studying these videos. You really are a fantastic teacher/builder craftsman. You bring a real sense of calm and pragmatism to proceedings which I hope I can emulate some day. Thanks Pablo.

[@RavCadoch]

Excellent series! Pablo explains clearly and in such a relaxed and engaging manner. A true master at work!!

[@Andluth]

A beautiful series! Thank you for documenting this for current and future woodworkers and luthiers.

[@becomingalulabro4536]

Wow, I have only a few coats on and it’s just amazing the beauty that’s already coming out!

[@Neraxia]

I can't decide what i like best, the workmanship or the filosophy behind it all. Just suscribed anyways.

[@hillguitars]

Great video Pablo, will help many people with their polishing!

[@redkitekk]

hillguitars thanks Stephen, I am very pleased you like it.

[@Transcendental9]

Pablo, thank you for this series its facinating.

[@harryodum5598]

Hello again Pablo step 3 came out beautiful with patience. Now I'm ready to carry on one step for 4.

[@paulmiller3523]

Great and very detailed videos on this difficult topic!. Pablo, thank you very much for that!

[@astakic]

Thank You Pablo . . good explained as usual . .

[@RicZalewski]

I am being hooked into attempting french polish again. my initial experience was not too good, but the way you do it gives me confidence. I don't think that I can tell the difference in terms of sound but the reputation that comes with it is worth pursuing it. It shows you that as a luthier you can go the extra mile, actually the extra 100 miles, this is soooo much slower than spraying nitro. Don't blame nobody when right in the last minute you screw up because you applied too much pressure, it is all like an intuitive process, a challenge that no robot will take it away from you. Sos un groso Pable sigue asi!!!

[@pmscalisi]

I like the fact you’re not required to use toxic lacquers and having to have specialized spray equipment. I’ve done one French polish project as well as hand applied varnish and other oils. They turn out really nice with a feel that you just can’t get with nitro or other similar procedures.

[@salmanalmukhtar3164]

Thank you for the valuable information

[@petervanrooij2181]

Thank you very much. I need to learn to be more patient en thorough.

[@marioamayaflamenco]

So excellent and useful. Thank you for sharing. I always wonder who your camera person is.

[@kitaez9343]

Thanks for the kind advice 4:57 XD

[@ccaissie113]

Rosewood's extra expense is not just the wood, but the special techniques to keep it from bleeding and staining everything?

[@TheSULTAN7777]

thank you 👏👏

[@carnel7326]

Thank you so much for all your videos sir. Your way of filling the grain on the bridge seems great but I was wondering why not use pumice instead ?

[@redkitekk]

You can do it with pumice and it will be fine. You just need to find the way it works for you.

[@Daantjer]

5:00 haha

[@pollyvincenzi]

👏

[@GuitarQuackery]

Do you ever do the finishing on the body and the neck, separately, and then assemble the guitar, like they build Martin guitars?

[@redkitekk]

No, I know it is easier to polish that way. I just prefer to use the traditional Spanish method.

[@GuitarQuackery]

@@redkitekk I am personally more knowledgeable about steel string guitars, so I am wondering if it is a common occurrence that guitars of that caliber will eventually need a neck reset. I have seen quite a few nylon string guitars that did need a neck reset, simply because it is not possible to lower the saddle much on a nylon string guitar, especially if it's a bridge with 6 string holes. However, all of those guitars that I've seen, that needed neck sets, were nowhere near the quality of instruments that you build. As I'm sure you know, on Martin guitars it's pretty much just a matter of time when a neck reset will be needed. But those are steel strings guitars, so I'm wondering how nylon string guitars, at your level of quality, typically age. As you know, it is much easier to do a neck reset if the finishing was done separately on the body and on the neck. So, when I asked my question it was also coming from the idea of easier serviceability, down the line. I'll have to check out more of your videos but I'm wondering if you might have any videos that show how you might deal with finish repair after a neck reset. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I also want to compliment the camera work. Whoever that person is, please send my regards.

[@TrevorMag62]

Would be interested in advice on offset sound hole designs (eg, Tacoma Chief style), where there is an area of soundboard all around the fingerboard (instead of a centre hole). You can't cover that area with long with-the-grain strokes.

[@MoGiMaL]

That's why he shaped the rubber in to a point, so he could do the areas beside his fingerboard. You can do the same on your guitar, as a side ways stroke or come across it in a circular pattern.

[@lyndamcardle4123]

Hello Pablo I note that in this video, you have the shape of a violin back or top hanging on your tool board. Would it be safe to presume you also make violins too ?

[@redkitekk]

Lynda McArdle yes, I also make violins, it something I started to do only a few years ago.... so I am no expert there, my main instrument is the Spanish guitar.

[@astakic]

Hi Lynda, Pablo is a great Master and if you really would like to get more insights of luthier mastery I warmly suggest to attend his courses . . I was last September for 1 month . . it was simply life change . . Pablo is very methodical, patient, detailed, he explains absolutely everything..no hiding of tips . . very practical and on spot problem solver .. you can see in his work decades of work in filed where he is really the best . . moreover, take a look who was and who is playing his instruments and how much they cost . . it speaks itself . . I am not Pablo's promoter, I am just disclosing my personal experience . . .

[@lyndamcardle4123]

@@redkitekk Thank you for your reply.

[@lyndamcardle4123]

@@astakic Hello Aleksandar..... I don't doubt what you say here. Pablo exudes method, patience, attention to detail and perfection....just look at his informative videos......a real artisan...

[@squeezy99]

For the top, back and sides did you use the 1lb or 2 lb cut?

[@josephtixier2404]

HOW? I've been trying to french polish different instruments but the rubber keeps removing polish at the last moment and random places. I really don't understand how much you rubber needs to be charged. you seem to charge it a lot but then say it should not be too wet. Then you add a little bit just before you apply and imediatly say "oh its too dry"... I don't get it. how much polish do you need to put and how often?

[@redkitekk]

Joseph Tixier sorry it wasn’t a clear explanation for you. If you are removing polish I think it must be because you work for too long in the same area. I put 4 o 5 drops of polish on the rubber and I wait for the rubber to soak it in before take it to the guitar. Try to do less polishing and wait 24 hours in between sessions, I know in the video I say you can do 2 o 3 sessions in one day, but if you are removing polish it is safer to wait longer to make sure the polish dryers enough before the next session.

[@josephtixier2404]

@@redkitekk So sorry if I seemed to be frustrated with your video :). Your videos are very helpfull, clear. They feels like watching a friend work. I think its also a mater of "feel" and experience. I mean, you can't describe "wet enough" or "friction" with a video... I tried to replicate what you did (and other people on youtube) and didn't understand what I was doing wrong. Indeed I though the idea was to keep working on an area until it is completely dry and you can only see the "cloud" of ethanol behind your pad (I never saw that). I saw this in another video (from a magician then I guess. magic must be involved). He was mentionning that the pad should feel almost dry. in another one, the pad was soaking wet and drooling when he pressed down on paper (but magically not when pressing down on the wood).Thank you so much for responding and sorry again for my rage. I was watching your video after my 10th attempt (sand off, re do, sand of, re do) and my head poped :D.

[@josephtixier2404]

as you are experienced, you must know what I felt : going well... going well... going well... hoo its shiny! yes finally.... oh thats gorgeous! going well... going well... wait... what? HO NOOOOOOOO! I'm trying to french polish traditional african instruments made with bamboo, calabash and tropical woods.

[@prettyfly6750]

In the video you mentioned that you would repeat this process 4-5 times. Would this be 1 session(of 4-5 applications) or this would be 4-5 sessions.

[@redkitekk]

Yes, that would be one session.

[@lyndamcardle4123]

Do you also treat the machine head slots on the inside of the headstock ?

[@redkitekk]

Lynda McArdle yes, I brush French polish in the slots.

[@pfmcnamara]

This is the spot that I have the most trouble with. It would be great, Pablo, if you could show how you do the slots in a future installment of this series.

[@lyndamcardle4123]

@@redkitekk I presumed that, as a perfectionist you would but, nevertheless, it's nice to have this confirmed. Thank you. No reply necessary.

[@redkitekk]

Hi Paul McNamara, it is really quite simple, it is a difficult area to access so nobody would expect to see polished to the same degree as the rest of the guitar. As long as you have a couple of coats of shellac brushed in and you make sure you don’t get runs of polish into the slots when you polish the head you would be ok.

[@LeandroSilva-ho1ti]

My friend, I'm from Brazil, tell me one thing, please, how do I make the exact marking process at the top of the wood the circle?

[@redkitekk]

Leandro Silva I am sorry, I don’t know what you mean, can you try to explain a bit more or in a different way? Thanks

[@LeandroSilva-ho1ti]

I'm sorry I do not know English right, I'll try again, what is the procedure that goes to get the exact measurement in the circle where the sound of the guitar comes out, here is called how to take the correct measurement of the wood

[@banjoist123]

Isn't the pad called a "munecea"? (doll)

[@redkitekk]

Muñequilla

[@carlotomass119]

Can I French polish a door ?

[@redkitekk]

Of course.

[@Gledii]

thanks a lot for sharing. look, how many coats shall i do per day? 1 session means serveral coats in 1 day or just 1 coat? thanks

[@redkitekk]

Gledison Fonseca to do one session should take you 15 or 20 minutes and you can repeat that every 3 or 4 hours.

[@Gledii]

@@redkitekk thanks for the tip. Look shall i wet sand between the sessions or just at the end if necessary? Cheers

[@redkitekk]

Gledison Fonseca only when necessary, and I would do it dry.

[@Gledii]

@@redkitekk how many sessions do you do per day? im currently doing 3 full "coats" per day and i have already a glossy layer. however im not sure when is ready in order to avoid to sand it through the wood . thanks

[@redkitekk]

Gledison Fonseca when you look at the reflection of light on to the wood you will see if there are any imperfections, if that is the case then you need to do a little bit of sanding in those areas, if everything is good then carry on polishing and only do the sanding if necessary.