How to Get Back into Climbing Shape - Mini Training Cycle

[@Snailmailers]

“Work on 3 grades below your flash level”. Me: negative V1 it is then

[@movementforclimbers]

Lol! Gotta start somewhere :-)

[@Morgan8378]

Lol same

[@tyguyshark]

So, stairs and ladders - got it!

[@dodostarforce]

In england, pubs are opening before climbing gyms or any indoor gyms :-(

[@charlescoonce9209]

It’s like they don’t want us to make early gains

[@vegardt3433]

Early grains it is then!

[@StarWarsSaint]

Always love the atmosphere and music of your videos, have really helped a beginner climber like me to get started to learn what and what not to focus on. Keep up the great work!

[@movementforclimbers]

Thank you! I'm very particular about music choice, so I'm really like you dig it!

[@WelchJosh]

I found that my stamina and strength have completely disappeared however, my technique has vastly improved and I'm climbing way better. Just.... the pump comes so fast.

[@totheair247]

So true, the pump and the skin burning about 30 minutes in

[@rafiqmalik2818]

Good to see u back

[@rohan1_]

Local gyms just reopened 3 days ago, perfect timing! Also, congrats on the sponsor

[@mitchell8182]

love the bloopers :D great video

[@movementforclimbers]

First day back in the gym = lots of bloopers :-)

[@ejl74]

Miss your video!!! Glad your back!

[@rrrents]

Surprised that no hair product companies haven't started sponsoring him yet. I mean ... look at this hair!

[@WonderWendyyy]

I love the style of your videos! I'm always learning something new. Would you mind eventually doing a video on the art of falling? Just got back to the climbing gym recently and I'm noticing my fear of falling has heightened after not climbing for a while + having a scary fall outdoors. I have lower spinal issues (from snowboarding in the past) and I think it's more sensitive right now since I haven't been able to train my back/core muscles as much. Would be really helpful to know your thoughts on the subject. Thank you!

[@movementforclimbers]

Thank you! Are you talking bouldering or sport climbing falls? I also suffered a lower back injury a long time ago and am super cautious about taking unnecessary falls, especially in bouldering.

[@WonderWendyyy]

@@movementforclimbers Definitely bouldering please! I down climb as much as I can before I have to fall, but sometimes I'm pretty pumped at the top and know I need to bail. Or when you aren't confident with the top out / Finish holds and fear takes over haha. I know it'll diminish with repetition but would love to know your perspective on this topic. Thank you!

[@matejkristek]

Great video actually! Will follow the routine now, when I`am back into climbing gym after 3 months :)

[@samastill1018]

Oh yes, the climbing daddy is back.

[@daphnevanderhoorn8417]

why is this the top comment and why did he like this

[@ThemenschMusic]

@@daphnevanderhoorn8417 you are asking the Important questions 😁

[@kieranbrown3492]

Always the best content

[@kylem_climbs9988]

Remember that if you want to do routes, the grade conversion from hueco to font to YDS is very rough... as a v10 boulderer i have only climbed 5.13a, but according to the chart i should be able to do 5.14a.

[@ibraelgu]

Thank you very much for sharing your routine with us

[@bogdansofiea7563]

Very good, just that I would take each week you have said in a 3-4week blocks or I would do each category of training for 2-3 weeks

[@movementforclimbers]

Totally agree that for a full training cycle you should dedicate 2-3 weeks per block. But if you're coming off the couch after 3 months like most of us then our bodies would break apart after the first endurance training session. A short mini cycle is good for getting the body back in shape so that it can handle the rigors of training again.

[@bogdansofiea7563]

@@movementforclimbers so the best approach would be a mini cycle like this and then going through longer training blocks? I mean kinda the best of both worlds :))

[@movementforclimbers]

@@bogdansofiea7563 Yup. The mini cycle is to get your body conditioned so you can handle the rigors of a full training cycle.

[@WyandWombat]

Getting back into climbing was quite the wild ride. I feel like I lost the least in finger strength and the most in core strength. In addition to that I got fatigued EXTREMELY quickly (after about an hour on my first session as opposed to 3-5 hours on typical sessions) and fucked up a muscle in my shoulder on an easy climb.

[@fufumccuddlypoops5502]

Nice, this will help a ton!

[@jimmyflipper8093]

Good practical advice. ☺🤘

[@adamloeffler3617]

Lol that blue 8 took me for a ride too

[@baaiiimmmm]

Thank you man !

[@MM-yl2kk]

Do you define flash level as the level where you always flash or where you have the potential to flash?

[@chase3464]

I had the same question. I took it to mean where you can fairly consistently flash since I know I can fall off V2+s at my gym but can often flash V4s.

[@leoingson]

Level, where you consistently flash, maybe 80% of the time.

[@movementforclimbers]

yup, what Bla Blum said. If you know the beta from watching people climb it then it should be a high percentage flash potential. I've definitely fallen off of easier grades that I didn't take the time to read properly.

[@Iamarock86]

After my first time climbing in three months my forearms are suffering, they’ve never hurt this much but I guess I expected that haha

[@domenichughes5272]

ayyyy how'd you know i'm getting my cast of next week lol

[@thesii213]

Any thoughts on finding an intermediate shoe or the best rubber options? Thanks!

[@travisjamesmajor]

My biggest issue coming back is my skin. Literally every single time I climb I get a couple flappers, and then spend days letting them heal, only to have them reappear within a few boulders.

[@movementforclimbers]

I would recommend climbing as statically as possible with minimum impact when contacting handholds. Flappers usually happen when you hit a hold at an angle with some force. Stick to higher volume on vertical terrain at first to gradually recondition the skin. If you really want to do overhang, make sure you keep strong body tension.

[@travisjamesmajor]

@@movementforclimbers This is incredibly helpful. I'm a big fan of the channel so really appreciate the reply!

[@plasma350]

How do you warm up your fingers to prevent injury?

[@Quintinia]

Probably just as part of your normal warmup, doing some climbs that are not too strenuous for you and don't require any intense gripping or crimping

[@leoingson]

The pros bring a portable hangboard, Ondra has a video on that.

[@movementforclimbers]

A natural progression would be starting on big holds, then working down to medium holds, then eventually to small. When starting on small edges, I prefer to climb mostly vertical terrain with static, low-impact movement, and gradually move up to steeper climbs with bigger moves. Also good to transition between different hold types (crimps, pinches, slopers) to ensure that the hand is warmed up in all positions.

[@jorgerusailh6820]

I watched one of your old videos and someone mention regripping, I observed your movements with more attention and only notice that sometimes you made some minor adjustment in your hand's positions. Is regripping that thing? Thanks.

[@leoingson]

Yes. Takes extra-energy, try to avoid.

[@movementforclimbers]

Generally speaking yes regripping should be avoided as it does take extra time and energy to make small adjustments. This is especially true for easy to moderate sections of a climb or any movements that you have dialed. However, for hard sections/moves that have bad holds it's necessary to utilize regripping to get the best hand positioning on a hold. If you watch pros climb hard boulders you will notice a decent amount of regripping to adjust to the perfect hand positioning. Anything short can drastically affect the ability to execute the move.

[@jorgerusailh6820]

Thank both for your answers. I enjoy watching climb videos. Always open to learn more.

[@Rampagedd]

oh how my strength has eroded.. thanks covid, first day back on wall last Wednesday...oh my. grip strength is in trouble 😧

[@dario2691]

Hey what grade do you climb?

[@movementforclimbers]

Highest grades in the gym are 5.13B and V9. Flash level around 5.12/V6. Highest grades outside are 5.12D and V7.

[@chase3464]

Thank you for showing it is possible to climb well in a mask.

[@StarrWolf64]

Its not if you actually exert yourself. Its not recommended to wear a mask for anything activity that increasing breathing intensity

[@Jagknorr]

StarrWolf64 but people train running with masks on all the time. For less air flow. In a way it probably could help your climbing breathing.

[@StarrWolf64]

@@Jagknorr I dont know about all the time. Its definitely not a good idea unless you're a top level athlete trying to maximize your training.

[@leoingson]

@@Jagknorr It's thought to have a training effect. There is no science backing it. Might work well for asthmatics (Bas Rutten claims it helped him).

[@movementforclimbers]

Thank you. It's very subjective of course, and I am careful not to overly exert myself. I got pretty winded filming some of the power endurance drills.

[@blakebradley829]

What now

[@tihamerstudios]

I never was in shape... *so* *i* *think* *im* *done* *here*

[@mnkeymasta]

aaaand, Newsom just closed all the gyms in LA again...

[@beatlefire8035]

Still without a shirt I see

[@movementforclimbers]

Some things never change :-)

[@tene3377]

Quick answer : just climb

[@AceandDuce]

I am a massive noob when it comes to climbing but if you aren't forced to be within 6 ft of people at your gym you should probably try to avoid wearing a mask if you can. It drops your blood oxygen level by ~10% which normally isn't that big of a deal but when exercising you are limiting the amount of oxygen you can get in. I should be clear not one of those paranoid conspiracies it's just a thought for you.

[@biggyoni]

Is this dogpatch?

[@movementforclimbers]

Sacramento Pipeworks. Not sure if Dogpatch has re-opened yet.

[@lukedyer9797]

What kind of mask is that?

[@khakicam5400]

Ninja, clearly

[@shinraninja]

imagine having to wear a mask while climbing lol

[@caramonfire]

I have been since my gym reopened. It's not easy. Long climbs are especially hard so I've been bouldering most of the time. It's getting easier each time though.

[@rohan1_]

@@caramonfire Lmao your endurance will be elite once this all blows over

[@movementforclimbers]

@@caramonfire I feel your pain. Also hard/impossible to bite the rope for far clips. Bouldering is where it's at. 80% sitting around and socializing :-)

[@FromDrea]

Wearing a mask climbing is awful.... hated it.