How to get perfect, repeatable cuts!

Whether it's a track saw or a basic circular saw it's easy to get perfect, repeatable cuts if you know how.
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[@2000bvz]

Oh my god. This is so helpful! And so well described! Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. (and I just subscribed!)

[@mingn.z.8300]

The idea is great, but more important: the explanations are the best!!

[@jhenderson4078]

Saw the original video on your other channel. Best tip I've ever seen on YT. So simple, but pure genius at the same time.

[@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect]

Glad it was helpful!

[@larsmortensen]

Now that’s brilliant- quite ingenious actually! Thx for sharing that.

[@dannyboy9817]

Flipping heck, what a simple but genius idea. Going to make one of these for my Makita track saw asap. Thanks for sharing this. Great video as always 😊.

[@jandykane]

I really enjoy this tip! But I wonder if it is, in fact, necessary for the stop block (on the left) to actually be perpendicular to the front edge of the cutting board. The stop block is just being used to register track and spacers against a straight edge. Thanks for the great video.

[@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect]

It needs to be perpendicular to the face not the edge so depth of material doesn’t make it inaccurate.

[@DeafMaker]

I've seen it before, but it's great to see it again. Always useful to have these reminders. Lovely the colour coded French coat cleat design. 👍

[@apmeehan]

Haha I too was admiring that Makita & (presumably?) Milwaukee colour coding system. 😚👌

[@selianboy8508]

KIFS as they say - Keep it Simple! Great reminder of your dedication to the DIYer.

[@tompreston8506]

This is an amazing tip, even though the tracksaw increases my accuracy I spend ages faffing with the measurements and worry about getting everything square, I'll be making something very similar for my workbench!

[@alanphillips5853]

tracksaw is next on my list, you have just confirmed that what I will be using it for will be possible and even moreso having seen this!

[@tonysutton6559]

The track saw is my current favourite tool. I was amazed at the accuracy and cleanness of cuts I was getting as soon as I started using it. Next is the nailer like the one shown in this video but that is because its the sortb of tool that overgrown schoolboys dream of.

[@GegeLaBidouille]

That is what I call a Stanley screwdriver 🤣 I can't wait to see you using it !!!

[@MrTsjies]

Best tip I've ever seen on KZbin 👏 Thanks

[@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect]

Glad you think so!

[@apmeehan]

Magic. I am genuinely excited by the prospect of cutting my tape-measure + pencil usage down to a fraction of what it was.

[@brucecomerford]

That was great. Thanks mate.

[@jamie-ck6js]

This is super useful, thanks Stuart. I especially like the idea of keeping some precut spacers, so often we quickly need a strip of 50mm ply etc.

[@CP104_]

I love the simplicity and concept. It's great for everyone who has a lot of scraps available. But before you cut up a bunch of birch ply and mdf of different lengths and thicknesses, just be aware that professional parallel guides have really come down in price (as low as 70$ for Chinese Woodpeckers/Tso copies). You can use them on any thickness material, set them to any measurement fine adjust and cut thin rips as well.

[@GrahamClarkson]

What a simple but clever idea. Thank you.

[@Meaus1]

Great tip thanks mate

[@LoisMaudson]

Enjoyed the video

[@SM-eq1vr]

Great stuff, how do you deal with different thickness of material

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

Great tip (& way to make use of scraps). Thanks for sharing it.

[@pedromimoso8804]

Very good. I like Tools and Stu 😁😁😁

[@craftygriffo]

You beat me to it. I noticed the "Tools and Stu" sign as well.😄

[@nigelgarnham1573]

Awhile back you did a video on the T14 router from Trend. You fitted the plate and router into your workbench. I have the same router that I have bought recently and would like to see a video on you setting it up ready for use and using it for various fun jobs. That would be a great help to me as there aren’t many demos re the T14 in a table. What do you think, would you do that?

[@markdyballuk]

Thanks Stuart, great idea

[@terrytopliss9506]

Good idea Stuart.👍👍

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

Superb idea thanks

[@StevenMurray-mt7om]

Stuart. Great tips👍

[@graveurgraveur2691]

Thank you!

[@Blue60]

Hi what day are you doing your review on the Brad nailer Cheers

[@milandjordjevic5949]

Thumbs up for this Tip 👍

[@jonaslarsen3231]

Great video! I actually made this last weekend. Following the guide in the other video. Could you make a video on how to make none square pieces square. I guess there could be a similar principle to this ? 🤔😊🙏🏼

[@jamowallace]

New workshop Stuart? 😮

[@tonypotter5589]

Hi Stu have you put a hold on the ‘proper engineering channel’ I loved it

[@nickdawson9270]

Good idea. Just an observation. Ideally the stop should be square but does not need to be precise. What is vital is that the spacers were cut to be a precise match with each other.

[@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect]

It needs to be square to the face, not the edge.

[@nickdawson9270]

@@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect Thanks Stuart. I'm not clear what you mean. Another important feature is that the stop has to be straight, i.e. not a piece of PSE which could have even the slightest bow. If you use two identical small pieces of known length as offset spacers but one is in a hollow, the resulting cut will not be parallel. I suggest that ideally the edge of stop should be also be trimmed with the track saw, maybe sheet rather than PSE. Obviously this issue not a problem if the offset spacer is actually the prototype piece for the project.

[@lesblack413]

Took me a while to understand that what you are doing is off-setting the track by the amount of the off-set blocks. I must be getting slow in old age. So, if the Makita saw track is 185mm wide and I want a strip of ply 285mm wide, then my offset blocks would need to be 100mm wide. Hope I'm correct here. Brilliant - would not have thought of this tip. Thanks.

[@InternalizedSun]

This is a really great tip… however: I got the Bosch GKT 55 GCE tracksaw and I’m starting to regret buying it, because the base of the saw is wider that the matching tracks, so all these amazing tips doesn’t work with this tracksaw. Any clever ideas for similar setups that I just cannot seem to get my head around? Nice “side channel” - didn’t know about it until now, so just subscribed of course 😊

[@nicholascaldwell6079]

Ah I was going to try this and I have the same saw as you. Damn. Too many odd little frustrations with that saw.

[@jimgeelan5949]

Make your own track, strip of ply fixed to one edge of a piece of ply wider then your saw base make a cut and boom your done 😊

[@InternalizedSun]

@@jimgeelan5949 Thanks - but it’s really sad because the aluminium track is so much more convenient to use and keeps the saw straight both left and right, but also due to being light-weight and thin. Making it in ply will be, not only a lot heavier, but will also reduce the cutting depth capacity - and quality ply is stupidly expensive here in DK and not really something you can by in the local hardware store either. Dang it :(

[@tonysutton6559]

Am I over thinking this or would using a spacer board that is thinner or thicker than the piece to be cut mean that the track would either rise or dip at the cutting edge resulting in the cut not being exactly square?

[@andyc972]

Thanks Stuart great tip, looking forward to seeing more of the new workshop set up and of course the tool review !

[@MarkClydesdale]

I had been tempted to buy a Ryobi tool a couple months after watching one of their adverts. However, they stupidly wont deliver to N Ireland. So rules out me even considering any of their tools. Just checked again and it's still the case.

[@davidfisher92]

I’ve only just seen Tools and Stu….? Did I miss this in the other videos????

[@tonysutton6559]

With the price of sheet materials, off cuts of that size would not go in the scrap, they would go in the "just in case box" at least until the next big shed tidy up (usually when it's so full of junk that I can't use my lathe or pillar drill). Am I being tight?

[@jwatkins123]

How does the new Makita saw compare to the old Parkside one? Worth the cost to upgrade?

[@maxbee4460]

Yes, good idea, but your track saw template has to be the same thickness as the strips you’re cutting, if the template is 12mm you can’t use it for 18mm and vice versa.

[@RB-xg2vz]

It’s amazing for cutting cement boards as well - just get the special blade

[@ReheatedDonut]

Hi Stuart, I wonder if you have a solution like this for someone with only a circular saw, but for non-sheet goods. e.g. repeatable squaring of timber or ripping boards in half / thirds etc? I can make any required jigs, I can't think of a fast / elegant way to implement.

[@robinguitar]

Tools & Stu?

[@richardstevenson2727]

👊👍

[@geoffh3431]

Am I correct in saying this only really works for material that is the same thickness as the material you make the guide from ie 12mm in your examlpe?

[@nickdawson9270]

You could make two or three cutting boards for 9mm, 12mm and 18mm depending upon need. For materials less than 12 mm the splinter guard is not effective so the blade would lift the material and you could get a lousy cut. A solution would be to cut say two thickness of 6 mm together or 9mm + 3mm. For materials greater than 12 mm, ultimately the saw blade would not be plumb to the surface. You would need to lift the track with thick shims made of off cuts of say 3mm and 6mm stock.

[@ProperDIY-ToolsandEffect]

I should have said - best to have one for each standard thickness you use.

[@chrisoverman7551]

Why not fix the track spacer down to the cutting board?

[@nickdawson9270]

How many different cutting boards are you planning to have? That's why not.

[@Connortime1098]

Absolutely no idea what you mean with the wooden track bit. 😂

[@didee3900]

From what I understand you cut the wooden track and put it under the metal track to make the saw level to the wood you are cutting for the repeat cuts. Otherwise the saw will sit too low and not give you the accuracy.

[@pinkplonker8776]

Great stuff but get those gloves off with rotating machinery!

[@jeffbaker8808]

Gloves ok - far away from blade. Nail gun and no glasses though.

[@DK-ff9hp]

@@jeffbaker8808 Best leave the gloves off altogether or you have to remember to take them off when you do need to get close to the blade. We all take the easy/lazy route of "it will be alright just this once" - until it aint alright!