How I got STRONG Fingers in 30 Days (Crazy Results)

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Thanks to all of you for supporting this random dude who just loves climbing a little too much... I can't believe we're at 3k subs and uploading a video with the first "Official" sponsor (Warm Tap Water will never be forgotten). As you'll see in the video all my principles of technique still stand and it's a testament to what can happen when you use your strength with good movement skills

[@D4NKN4]

This shows how technique is so important, my fingers are or were stronger than you on 20mm, I could do 105lbs (pre A4 pulley injury, rn its at 75lbs) and I could barely do v8s. While injured, I took way more time reading beta, watching other people's beta, looking at body positioning, practicing slabs, and now I can do some v8s even with weaker fingers. Great vid!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Ohh man injuries suck! But they are always good situations to change your focus and I think you did pretty well with the cards you were dealt. Now when you come back even stronger you can climb even harder!

[@felixbaker8709]

So you're saying you hung bodyweight +40kg two-handed (i.e. >50kg per hand) on a 20 mm edge (e.g. Beastmaker 1000 small edge bottom rung) before and then you started your training from 23 kg one-handed? This does not make much sense to me. I would not sell these results as actual gains in this case, it seems more likely that you got used to the exercise. I can also hang in excess of bodyweigth +50kg on a 20 mm edge and can easily do at least 60kg 20 mm lifts. Something is off here.

[@Allen_lena]

Yeah, something doesn't add up in terms of being consistent between the 2 tests. Either he was training with the 15 or 10 mm edge, or it just doesn't make sense that he couldn't lift half his bodyweight on a completely straight arm (also, keep in mind, we're a bit more than half as strong in a one arm hang).

[@christianmaslak]

I think you've watched the wrong video. He states that he went from 23 kg no hangs(picking the weight up off the floor) to 50something kg no hangs(picking the weight up off the floor). In that time frame that's obviously not a straight up muscle strength increase, but rather getting used to the exercise as you say. I see nothing fishy here.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey Felix! Thanks for your comment, it actually helps clear up a few things. The pandemic training was 4 years ago, in the middle I picked up a few injuries and for the last 2 years I've been doing no training and focused on technique so there is a part of my fingers healing up + regaining strength. I do find something kind of your results strange, personally I don't feel even close to being able to pull on one hand half of what I do on both. For me it feels a bit like the difference between a one arm push up and a 2 arm one. Having both hands allows to do much more than the individual parts. But that might be since it's my first time on a pick up board. I think what you say of getting used to the exercise is a valid point, in the first week it felt easier each session and as I mentioned the biggest impact was me feeling that my pinkie and index we're much more engaged. The whole video is mostly revolving around me climbing Haigyo and how feeling more confident on my crimps made me try climbs I would avoid. Unlucky I got injured 😢 the finale I would of loved is to have a day 30 of results and after that getting the send making it more about climbing that pure numbers. Not trying to be fishy I purposely put my previous results and share what I've climbed in the past so that people have the whole picture

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Just made a really detailed answer to Felix. But the tldr is that I'm not even as close to as strong as in the past for many factors and also something I do not understand how you guys can pull half on one arm. Maybe I lack experience on one arm hangs or something but I'm not even close to it 😂

[@jerrysenderson]

Crazy to see that you can lift more weight with the Unlevel Edge vs the Port-a-Board!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Yeah! The edge is deeper and having the lead more distributed helps out a lot!

[@HealingMushroom]

Can you go more into how your training was programmed in detail? How many sets, reps, days per week etc. Thanks!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Of course it's on 2:35 But just in case It's Max hangs at 80% (of your max) I would do only 10 reps which are 3 second holds. Of course I would warm up by increasing the weight slowly. I would do this 3 times a week. While I was climbing before the injury I never felt that the load was too much and after the injury it since the training was the only finger load I was getting it felt a bit easier but that was basically the last week. If you try the protocol I would do 1 week per month of cutting intensity by 40% and then another month long cycle. Just curious, do you mind sharing your training/climbing experience? I'm always curious who watches my videos 😂

[@Apo_strophe]

Hi! I was looking for a similar hangboard but do have the means to buy the weights to train at home, would you have any recommendations for training at home without weights? Thanks a lot, love your content

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey man, I love your name 😂 Training in general or fingers? In general I would do bands and a ton of calisthenics but in general I try not to over do it since it's gonna take away from climbing energy. If you mean fingers you could use something like the port-a-board and fix it to a floor or even a sling to your foot. The thing is it's probably best to add something like a Tindec Progressor if you're doing that since it's best to measure how much you pull

[@tylermorgan4344]

This video was incredible!! The ending was so cute!!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Thanks Ty! I think I'm learning a bit more about the production side of the videos so the next few are going to be getting better and better

[@LFSJack]

Nice video, thanks :) i have two questions though: 1. did you increase the load during the 30 days? (from the initial 80%) and 2. did you go climbing on the max hang days? cheers

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey Jack! I only increased the load if it felt like I was pulling way below 80%, when I got injured since this was the only stimulus my fingers were feeling extra crispy 😂 My climbing days depend a lot on my shifts so there was a few days where it overlapped but 95% we're on different days. My 2 cents on that is that I usually didn't do much crimps so the load wasn't as high and since the rep/set range is low the load never felt like it was going to lead to injury or problems

[@rockrasslingroy]

Nice! Sorry to see the injury foil your plans but you made improvements anyway so thats a positive. I think you might squeeze out a little more from your lifts if you shorten the rope so that you can use your legs to lift the weight stack. Keeping your arm straight and engaged and your back straight as you already did. I'm probably a bit older so i only tend to do max pick ups once a week on a day where i don't climb to avoid tweaks. I can pull about 60kg on 20mm but im going to try an unlevel edge soon!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Thanks for the kind words and the tips, I'll adjust it for sure! I'll aim for 60 kg over the next year 🤣 If you use the Unlevel Edge tell me how it went for you!!

[@JackitSings]

How come you can two hand hang 1:24 bodyweight+43kg (if bw is same as now then total 106kg two handed) on 20mm edge during the covid period but only pulling 2:05 23kg (46kg two handed) at the same edge at the start of this test? It is like a 60kg decrease in two hand hang???? Even after 30 days of getting used to the hang, you are still only pulling 11:50 33kg (66kg two handed) which is a 40kg decrease from your peak. Are you really gaining +10kg actual strength or are you just getting back into season? Either I misunderstood the information or something doesn't add up here.🧐 If it is just you getting back to your peak, I don't think people who didn't do any training before will magically increase their finger strength so dramatically like you did if adapting the same protocol. This might be misleading and cause potential harm to beginners whose fingers are not as tolerant as an experienced climber.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey Jack! Thank you for your questions. I am really transparent in all my videos which is why I share ALL of my data even if it would be easier not to 😂 The 2020 results were 3 months of only doing that with no climbing 2 handed. I think there are quite a few reasons for the results being much lower on day one, and no I'm not only meaning I got much weaker (that's just 1 part). In the middle I had elbow issues and finger injuries with chronic capsulitis on my middle fingers, my horrible technique led to increased load on fingers. I worked for the last 2 years on not doing any finger training and improving technique so that this would not happen anymore. Which would explain the getting weaker part. I think it's also important to share that the tests are completely different 33 on one hand does not = 66 on both. If you have ever tried 1 arm stuff like a pull up or push up you'll see there is a huge difference. I do think this is not as intense as a one arm pull up but it's still a very significant difference. I do really want to emphasize that this video is not me saying hey beginners do this or that finger strength will solve all your problems. If you see any of my videos you'll know that I advocate for technique more than anything else and that was the key to my gains at BPUMP up until now. I do think that the training routine is something accessible to the average climber since it's a % of what YOU can do and the rep/set load is low. This was on purpose since I focus 90% on climbing and 10% on training. Sorry for the long message but I'm glad we can have this type of talk, I'm not trying to be misleading I could of just as easily not added my results in the past and no one would have said anything but I want to share as much as possible so that people have the whole picture

[@JackitSings]

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Sorry to hear about your past injury. Now i understand your intention better and the reason of such significant strength loss in these 3 years. But i think it will still be better to specifically acknowledge at the end of the video that your previous training could have contributed to this insane strength gain so people who adopted this protocol and not see the same amount of gain will not be confused. Anyway, thank for the long reply👍

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

I see what you mean, I thought it was obvios that this was just my experience and not a promise that anyone else would get the same results. If you see my channel most of my videos are exactly that, sharing my improvement and ideally getting some useful tips that you guys can try out yourself. But something I've been realizing lately is that each video is almost like its own world and most people haven't seen any of my other stuff and know nothing about me or how I do things. Thanks for the insights and being a chill human being, some people in the comment section think this is my full-time thing and if I don't mention something I'm hiding it or something, but the truth is I'm just learning every day as most of us, the only difference is my mistakes are very public 😂 Have a nice day man, I'm glad these types of "discussion" are still possible

[@ClimFreeFeelRain]

OH YOU ARE IN TOKYO ? I AM REALLY CLOSE TO MITAKE !! I go sometimes with friends, should we see one day ?

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Yeah I work at BPUMP Tokyo, I'm usually there 😂 When my foot heals up I want to go back to mitake!

[@JieFong]

I find your results to be a bit skewed, the white crimp block used does not have a back portion so your fingers are going through the hole. Due to this, it looks like you're really pulling off 30mm on white block vs 20mm on wood block. 10mm is a huge difference, hence why you can pull so much more on the white one.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Thanks for your comment, I think you raise a valid point and I'll also add the fact that my GF was the last testing weight made the final results a bit wonky. It's harder to keep consistency on results for the unlevel edge but that's the great thing of using both training tools. The results on the 20mm are consistent with the unlevel edge gains. I think if you would give it a try it would be best to record results from a 20mm edge at the beginning and end but try the unlevel edge. I could already feel the engagement of pinkie and index on the first week completely different than usual

[@erlebniskollektiv5132]

Just considering Emil Abrahamssons newest video, it doesn't make sense at all, that you climb that hard at b-pump and start with 23 kg max. No matter concentrating on technique or having had some injuries. Sorry, seems off to me too!

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hello! I'll also say watching the video it surprised me. I think the different pick up devices have different builds which might make it easier or harder to pull more weight. Just as Emil did in the video I blocked my self from allowing my fingers to extend. I'll also say watching the video it surprised me I've tried pairing up the Tindec progressor and the Port a Board to measure the finger strength of some climbers stronger and weaker than me and we were all in the range of 30-45~ They were V3 to V10 climbers here at BPUMP

[@garretehrick6137]

Gainz 💪🏽

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Solid training on good gear + patience = results 🔥

[@martincrash1]

buen video compa... buscate un micro bueno, te sorprenderia lo que se mejora la percepcion de la calidad de los videos con eso... segui postiando compa.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Tengo un buen micrófono! Creo que el problema es que no se usarlo tan bien jajajaja Es el dji Mic 2 todavía tengo que aprender a modular la voz por que cuando hablo demasiados intenso es como que se clippea

[@timothygoy1188]

One of the most underrated climbing channels in my opinion, thanks for consistently sharing your advice and progress! Im from Singapore, do you plan on visiting anytime soon?

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Thanks Tim!!! I'm glad you feel that way about the stuff I make 🔥 I would love too! I don't have any plans to leave Japan in the near future but it's a place I've always wanted to go so who knows 🤔 Are you coming to Japan anytime soon?

[@timothygoy1188]

I just went to Osaka in May, but I have to go back to try B-Pump! Please continue working there 🤣🤣🤣

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

😂 I'm trying my best Ideally I would stay here for ever but we'll see what the future holds. If you do come send me a message on IG!

[@mixolt23]

dont shrug, lift with the legs for the future

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Thank you!!!

[@matejnovosad9152]

You are NOT an average climber :D I think you are quite a bit better

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Yeah... It's kind of hard to name the video "not average climber with average finger strength pick up boards for 30 days" but that's why I shared the graph by lattice with my finger strength which puts me at around V5/6 average on fingers. Plus it depends where you're at... Here at BPUMP I'm an okay climber but nothing special

[@NoahJames003]

Yet another reason for me to not to do dynos 🙏🏾

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Lol, I wouldn't shy away from them! You learn a lot. I think it was just bad luck combined with not being there 100%. I had already said "bye, I'm going home" and then did it. That was the big mistake IMO

[@NoahJames003]

Yea I get that i definitely sus out which dynos I do try when outside season starts to peak. Currently hiding from any sideways or downward dyno lol

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Ohh yeah, makes sense. Gotta peak for them trips haha Yeah I would say downwards are a bit more dangerous so it's probably a good call. What do you have planned for the outdoor season?

[@NoahJames003]

Currently I want to solidify V6 outdoors but I have a V7 project that has been calling my name. Is this the same foot injury you had in another video? Hopefully you back in action for that v9 soon

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Sadly no 😂 The nail one on my left foot is ugly but fine, this was on the right foot, but it's been improving and now I can walk mostly normally. Time for the winter training arc 💪

[@johntheguru]

Dissappointed to realise it's an advert. Of course it's magical results. All validity vaporised when you're paid to sell it unfortunately.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey John, I see what you mean and I don't think anything I would say would make the video feel honest to you. It's a shame that I got injured, I tried to make the video mostly about how those improvements translated to climbing and not just the raw numbers. I don't think it really matters if the final result is 30 or 40 or 200% for that matter, what I care about is climbing. I do think I managed to share that up until the injury though.

[@matejnovosad9152]

Yo. You messed up the face censoring of your gf. You can use the YT Editor to cut the couple of frames off.

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey! Thanks!! She was having a bad makeup day 😂 so when she saw it she said it's okay it's just a frame. But I really appreciate you're kind enough to point it out

[@Chippz]

first

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

You have a special place in my heart 🔥

[@alisoncurran9631]

Cool video but you're definitely not "average" 😂😂🙄

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Hey Allison! I know, the truth is I would want to write "not average climber with average finger strength trains Max hangs on pick up boards for 30 days" but the sad truth is no one would see that video. I try to be as transparent as possible which is why I shared the graph by lattice with my finger strength which puts me at around V5/6 average on fingers and also my training background including previous results. I don't intend to sell this as if anyone will get these results which is why I shared how it affected my climbing throughout the video with the goal of getting Haigyo but sadly I got injured

[@alisoncurran9631]

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing tbf, not a very catchy title for a video 😂😂 always appreciate your content, thank you 🙏

[@CrispyCrimpsClimbing]

Thank you for the support 🎉