Five ways to reduce layer lines on your 3D prints - Adaptive layer height and more!

[@nitzerebbhead]

I knew about adaptive layer heights, but really didn't know how to use them properly until this video. Thanks!

[@terryarnott4333]

Wow! Magic Bullet indeed. Adaptive Layer height is a game changer. I have used .1 layer height before to improve the layer lines on very low angles that showed very obvious stepping, but is multiplies out the print times, but I had never heard of the Adaptive Layer height before. Being able to print the bulk of the job with .2 or .4 and only drop to really small layer height where it's needed is brilliant. Thank you for bringing this to our attention. 2 thumbs up from me.

[@anthonystownsend]

You can also turn off the one wall on top layer, I do that for most prints. Using concentric or Archimedean Chords top layer also helps to hide the top stair steps.

[@AlienShrmp]

Thank you, that is a very good tip

[@NeonDreams7]

You were killin' it on the troubleshooting scene 6 years ago when I got an Ender 3, and you're still making waves today. Thanks for everything

[@mixtermuxter8602]

YES - the tips for min and max layer height are really handy!

[@mikropower01]

I am new to 3D printing, do it now for 2 weeks and find here more interesting settings and tips to improve my 3D builds. Thank you!

[@AndrewAHayes]

combining adaptive layers with a scarf joint also fets rid of the seam, this is a must for any rounded parts.

[@SOHCHEAD]

I've found if you use hybrid tree supports and independent support layer heights in Ocra 2.1.1 you can have adaptive layer prints with tree supports. It's a neat addition for more complex prints.

[@jasondominguez5392]

8James​@@SOHCHEAD

[@ernieoporto1111]

In the 8 years I have been 3D Printing I constantly see that Fuzzy Skin setting and have always wanted to give it ago, but I never have. I’m going to give this a shot TONIGHT now!

[@squidcaps4308]

I have about the same amount of years, and also going to print my first fuzzy skin tonight.. but i had that idea yesterday, for a temperature&humidity display housing.

[@darrennew8211]

It works great to hide the gap between two parts you're going to clip, screw, or otherwise put adjacent. Totally hides the seam.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

If you do it, to it on a part that does not require tight tolerance. You can however disable Fuzzy skin in areas that require tight tolerance, but I can't explain it completely right here, you basically have to model parts that fit perfectly into the areas you don't want to be fuzzy and disable fuzzy skin on their common overlaps. There are many videos here on youtube that explain the process, It's actually extremely easy.

[@jaguarke069]

@@SmokinjoewhiteAre you referring to the modifiers in Orca Slicer (eg)?

[@yuripolak]

​@@Smokinjoewhite I wish they do fuzzy skin paint tool, so you can apply only on the surfaces you want... It would be awesome

[@SpencerPaire]

Speed-adaptive layer lines seems like a game changer! And using fuzzy skin for a stipled grip on any kind of tool seems like a free upgrade. Thanks for this video! These are some awesome tools!

[@Jaws425]

Just found your channel. One of the best descriptive videos I have seen. I appreciate how you showed all the printed samples along the way versus just saying "click this - do this".

[@grimmx]

Wow I played with adaptive layer height before, but didn't realize you could push the layer height down to 0.04, that fixed the last bit of stair stepping I was getting before, thanks!

[@terrain4print]

Thank you very much, I had missed the automatic setup of variable layer height. Very nice addition to the toolbag.

[@FranklyPeetoons]

For years I've been watching your videos and they've always been interesting and often helpful. This one in particular is extraordinarily useful for the mid-level hobbyist.

[@algauthier]

As is the case with almost all your videos, you do a superb job of giving enough detail to make the concepts easily understood and also immediate actionable while also not providing so much detail that it’s overwhelming. It seems easy but must take a lot of effort. Thank you for creating such great content. It allows so many of us to save time and frustrating and embrace the joy of 3d printing.

[@m3rty1lm4z]

I found a lot of answers to my all questions with your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge/wisdom on this topic.Glad we have you! Keep going!

[@juggalizzle75]

Omg! I didn't even know adaptive layers was a thing. I've been wasting so much time. You have taught me so much over the years and continue to do so. Thanks for everything you do

[@MotocrossRider155]

This is a total game changer. The adaptive layer higher height is something I knew I needed but didnt know how to use it.

[@UncleManuel]

This has to be the best explaination & demonstration of variable layer heights! It is amazing how far slicer software has come compared to just 6 years ago. 😲 I had a Tevo Little Monster back then with complete changed electronics (f.e. Duet3D Smart Effector) and this magnetic ball effector holder. I never got out of the PLA testing phase (unsatisfying print results) and quickly lost interest and sold it (yeah, "life" happened). 🤷‍♂️ I actually thinking about getting back into 3D printing with a Bambu X1-C and armed with fresh modern KZbin knowledge (material moisture, printer settings, slicer settings). 😎

[@harlamTK]

As someone new to Bambu printers (and 3D printing in general) this was a great intro into some of the settings I can start playing with to improve my end print now I have the basics down. Really appreciate it!

[@billyoung9538]

I'm very, very new to 3D printing, but this video has me the most excited about the potential, because my biggest issue has been layer lines, and the work needed to fix them. While I have yet to try this out yet, the potential of this has determined that I'm going to try UltiMaker Cura as my first slicer software, because that Adaptive Layer height looks amazing.

[@Poorgeniu5]

The combination of adaptive layer and fuzzy skin really sells that cast iron look!

[@8PG1]

Excellent tutorial my friend thanks so much for helping us make our print shop that much better!

[@josephpk4878]

I've finally printed a model with OrcaSlicer and am highly impressed with the entire process - it's a nice merger of the best of both Cura and PrusaSlicer. Painted z-seams, with a vertical line option. Impressive wipe and gap fill functions. Archemedian Chords solid fills (and more). G Code viewer... the list goes on. So far, it's produced excellent prints and I can see myself using Orca for the majority of my printing needs.

[@JonDaiello]

Great overview! I haven’t gotten into layer heights yet so this will be great. And the bonus of variable layer heights is perfect. And, it’s great to see it in Bambu Studio, which is what I use. thanks!!

[@umbratherios5614]

Lots of awesome tips in this vid for those who wanna experiment!

[@nahuelise4055]

Thanks a lot for this advice,its super useful,also i liked the very last point of having a basic calibration dialed in before diving deeper into more advanced settings and tips like the previous ones

[@sleepybear101]

Cool! I didn’t know about the variable layer height, definitely gonna try it on my next print. You could also try ironing for the top surface though.

[@larrybud]

Ironing wouldn't really help in this test case since the lines we see on the top aren't planer, they are separate layers.

[@greg4367]

As always, educational and well worth the time to watch. I learn something from every one of your postings. Yhank you.

[@JustisSaayman-y8y]

Dude this is amazing! Thanks loads for this video. I knew most of it but damn that adaptive layer thing is something I have never played with and WOW!

[@potrzebieneuman4702]

Excellent video. I've recently changed to a dual feed extruder unit for my Ender 3 and the difference i astounding. I expected things to be better but the prints come out smooth as butter compared to the old single feed.

[@Justcallmerita]

Great tips! Bookmarking this video for sure. Can’t wait to try these out.

[@matttavani]

That was a seriously good explanation of how to get the best results!

[@jeffharrison5265]

Great information!!!! Layer lines are the one thing that drives me nuts. Thanks so much for sharing this stuff.

[@MiroSays]

Those adaptive layer lines were the top tip for me! I am currently printing almost non-stop and have prepared overnight projects. Adaptive lines save me an hour each on those projects and any curved surfaces will probably look considerably better!

[@aidanm7225]

Got to love waking up to another awesome tutourial , cheers for all your work mate

[@sjoerdvandereerden5676]

Great video! I'm gonna give this a go!! For the top surface I sometimes use a Hilbert curve infil. This gives also a sort of textured look.

[@vahpr]

That's great, I regularly print models that can benefit from this, thank you!

[@byronjamest]

Thanks for this, never realised adaptive layer height was an option. Such a great tip!

[@junx82187]

Great video man. Thank you. Informative! Helpful to all newbies in 3d printing.

[@WillPeterson]

I would like to mention one other thing: on this model, the very top rounded dome is the obvious location of layer lines. RE-ORIENTING YOUR MODEL is another huge important trick to use in combination with the other things you have described here.

[@YASYTU]

pretty good video format. gets to the point, shows examples. nice!

[@JamesTenniswood]

Amazing difference, thanks for sharing

[@windforward9810]

Thanks gave me a lot of things to think about. As a former lazy machinist like you I hate sanding or any post processing. Being retired i don’t want to spend all my extra time sanding so this will help. The fuzzy looks a little like a casted piece that was not totally cleaned up, so I’ll be using a little of both and lots of filler spray primer.

[@jorgesantander7454]

Thank you for the tutorial on the adaptive layer interface!

[@oceanman207]

I've seen the adaptive layer height button but I've never used it, thanks for the vid!

[@magatsu82]

great video. You should have mention ironing as well, I know it is not useful for every case but when you have flat top surfaces it really makes a difference.

[@twobrothers1877]

This was an awesome video! Just got into 3d printing and didnt know this existed and was setting my entire model with a lower print layer and just accepting my fate lmao. My only thumbs down is it felt like I was watching cable TV with all these ads for a 12min vid...

[@veganmo]

I really appreciate your videos. I’m going to start playing with these settings today. 👍👍

[@petermg22]

Great video, LOVE that mask! I'm surprised that you didn't try the smoothing option as well. This is what I use with adaptive layer lines, quality set to MAX, smoothing radius set to 10. It makes a significant difference. I think that's the only thing missing from this video.

[@SavetheRepublic]

Great info, thank! ❤🎉

[@proaudiorestore8926]

I use adaptive layer lines now with every final print I do. Printing faster now has just really given me access to better quality since I have never really been too fussed with print times. If I’m prototyping then sure, I’ll bang it out at 0,28 until the part is right, then it’s adaptive all the way.

[@hobbyistnotes]

Interesting, I haven't actually used the Adaptive Printing before and I am printing a lot. Thanks for the info.

[@kevinsmart2165]

Hi there Michael, great video as always! One thing that could have warranted a place in this video, or in a part 2 perhaps, would be the printer motion system. In my experience, coreXY and delta produce much more consistent layers over bed slingers. I'm sure your experience would be similar.

[@James-u9z2v]

This was really helpful information, great video as always. Thank you!

[@aeynosarturii8053]

This video earned you a sub. Very good information in this. Thank you.

[@michaelhaas9053]

Amazing video, thanks! I never got the UI for variable height in Orca.. until now 🎉

[@Nitro150Cl210]

Great video! I use variable layer heights on almost all of my prints, and the only drawback I see are for the chamfers I place to limit the impact of elephant foot on the first layer. On adaptative mode, the layer height is stuck on max value which is a killer in visual quality for chamfer at 45deg. Otherwise great addition to the 3D printing toolkit !

[@genemaster74]

G'day and cheers for your excellent channel. This big old boof just keeps learning, this is how to use this function, i have looked at it but never played around.....didnt want to break something. thankyou from Brissy

[@MrUniq]

OMG I have never used adaptive layer height! Layer height has been my bane!

[@Jnijst]

Excellent video and techniques !! man this is great engineering

[@TYGAMatt]

I made a bunch solar garden led light holders with natural nylon in vase mode with fuzzy skin. The rough surface does a great job of diffusing the light and look way better than the original product. Oh, and I changed all the plain old boring white LEDs to fancy colours. The green and blue look very nice 😊

[@3printed]

Perfect video on time, I was tinkering with the same settings on Orcaslicer and its clone New Creality Print Slicer 5.1

[@pawelg3800]

Thank You! Very usefull informations.

[@S.A.S.H.]

Superb tip-combo!

[@shanewright9946]

excelent explanation thank you

[@AngryGinger79]

Thank you for this video, some great suggestions!

[@philipershler420]

These are really wonderful ideas!

[@ZsoltBoda]

great tutorial, thx!

[@guilhermecarvalhotrindade2625]

This was top notch advice. Thanks!

[@CorinShadowblayde]

great video, Michael

[@handznet]

Great tip and result

[@djnuhnums]

Love all your videos!

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Yet another great video. Thank you.

[@KeithZim]

Thx. I've seen these texture but did not know how it happens!!

[@Ace01010]

I've been using Ironing and it's been great on my prints

[@Dimble]

I use matte filaments most of the time. Printing at .16mm layer heights the results are pretty good regarding layer lines. Combined with adaptive layer height gives great results.

[@Badbufon]

adaptive layers seem great, crazy that no one really talks about them

[@thmo_]

With each video I'm still eagerly jumping up to see whether it's the SV08 Toolchanger Part 2, still love all the other content as well tho!

[@FedericoAlbano83]

same here.... i wonder if he had to ditch the project because it was not working...

[@thmo_]

@@FedericoAlbano83 nah I don’t think so. He stated in another comment that the firmware was already talking to multiple tool heads and that he was waiting for parts. Those things probably take some time, as well as compiling all the details to publish on GitHub since people inevitably will ask for it. I sure hope we’ll get the video soon tho, but good things take time.

[@davidpyo3455]

same, development work def takes a while tho

[@TeachingTech]

It is being worked on. Some time waiting for components to come from China, now waiting for design. The trouble is I don't have a Voron 2, the the DraftSight guys don't have a Sovol SV08. It's hard to meet in the middle in a way that is easy for viewers to follow, but we'll get there.

[@thmo_]

@@TeachingTech excited to see whatever you get done! Quality work needs time, we get that 👍

[@1993staycool]

For the top layer, I can also recommend ironing to get it smooth. I make sure the top layer filling pattern and the ironing pattern are mostly perpendicular to each other to produce the best results

[@KingCreationsAU]

Another great video, go you!

[@alfvicente]

Good tips, I would add for round objects, change the top layer infill pattern to concentric.

[@milz0]

Fantastic Info! ❤

[@MakeKasprzak]

Great as always

[@ThePerizzo]

thanks for your video 👍

[@DeeSnow97]

for those lines on the top surface i'd recommend trying out ironing.it's not perfectly consistent unfortunately, but it's incredible how much smoother you can make your top surfaces with it. an interesting pattern also goes a long way

[@Garoninja]

I might use that flocking trick. Got a project that would be perfect for

[@filiepmaes9071]

Very great video, Thanks Michael

[@kellyjean4981]

I will have to play around with this. Thank you

[@kitebabe05]

very helpful and interesting

[@fernandezvonschwephausen1979]

Great Video!

[@MrDivinePotato]

This is great info, thank you!

[@avejst]

Great video as always :-)

[@theeox]

I'll be honest half way through I almost clicked off the video because I didn't see using different color filament as really a viable option. I'm glad I stuck around to learn about adaptive layer lines which I didn't know anything about. Another thing to consider is topside ironing. That should help smooth out the top portion that you have.

[@JeromeDemers]

great video! will try these tips!

[@DingoPaints]

Just what I was looking for

[@adcrane]

Another great vid!

[@rsmeaton]

For round objects like your test model, concentric top layers help to hide the stairstepping even further.

[@compudude]

Great tips!

[@illusionmanager]

What should be implemented in slicers is some anti aliasing. Reducing a complete layer down to 0.04 mm is fine, but is only needed in some areas of the model. The model in the video is easy, but having any slanted surface could use some anti aliasing. First print the parts on the edges where anti aliasing is needed at half the height, then print the rest at full height. You could even do 4x,8x or 16x anti aliasing. There is a bit more to it than I mentioned, but you'll get the idea. It will even speed up the simple thing in the video as all the internal parts are printed at full height.

[@mtrivelin]

Great video. Have you tried "concentric" instead "zig zag" on top layers? I believe that is a better choice.