How to glaze a window sash with Dap Latex Window Glazing

In this video I show you how to get professional results with Dap Latex Window Glazing. What is window glazing? It's what seals panes into sashes, keeping out air and water. The most common brand is Dap, available in most big box hardware stores. It comes in two types, Dap 33 which is oil based, and a latex version in tubes that fit into caulking gun. Oil based window glazing takes a long time to dry and need oil based primer. With a couple of common tools and practice. You can get professional, cleanly glazed windows and have them painted a day or two later.
Thank you for your interest! Please comment, ask a question and subscribe to my channel "The Homestead Craftsman".
Website Coming soon!
www.thehomestea...

[@pastorpresent1134]

First you should put a thin layer of compound on the wood to embed the glass into for a better seal. Next 'prime' the wood with linseed oil, penetrol, floetrol, even paint primer so that the dried wood doesn't suck the moisture out of the glazing compound too quickly. This makes for a slower cure time and better adhesion.

[@MeepChangeling]

That's true with putty. The product he's using is laytex. Wood doesn't suck stuff out of it. No oil needed. He tells you all of this in the video. If you check on the sides of your head you'll find these things called ears. They allow you to hear sounds other people are making. These sounds are called "words" and allow them to communicate information to you.

[@Mainly-melty]

@@MeepChangelingactually your incorrect you do need to use a oil based primer first It says so both on the dap website and if you call there 800 number Now all that crap you wrote about using your ears has made you look …. Well maybe think about ridiculing someone for no reason next time and you won’t look so bad ?

[@CapitalCityKate]

Very clear and simple instructions. Sooo helpful. Thank you!!

[@computercrazy123]

After reading the comments on this video, while it may not be the perfect method, at least he might inspire people to save their old windows, instead of horrible vinyl replacements. When I started to get into old windows a few years ago, I re-glazed the old windows in my bedroom with the same method he's using. Now, I am starting a side job on a large, historcal commercial building downtown (20-some plus huge windows). Strip the paint, oil-based primer, back-bed with Dap 33, set the glass, face-glaze, prime glazing, then 2 coats of finish paint. My point is, everyone has to start somewhere, and learn from their mistakes. So don't hammer the guy!

[@prominentsinglesinternatio4168]

If your just doing windows I would agree but as a professional painter who has to get a 3200 sq ft exterior painted in a week with 20 plus windows that need glazing knowing 33 glazing does not properly set to paint within a week tube glazing has been a life safer.We bed it, Use our points and once we run the glaze out the tubes we gently run our fingers come back the next day it's ready for prime...Will agree if you have the time and are looking for a more professional look your way is the way to go..In business you have to know what makes since & what doesn't.

[@stuartbrook6127]

It is important to bed the glass into a tiny bit of putty on the other side of the pane to stop moisture penetration on the other side.

[@MeepChangeling]

No it isn't. 1. This is laytex, not old fashioned plaster of pairs crap. It gets squished in there by the tube action real good. Better than you can jam mud into the crack with a fingie. 2. You're far better off just putting a silicone sealent on the other side of the window once it's dry to 100% airproof and water proof the panes. 3. Frankly you should be getting a modern window that wont poop all your heat out of your home in the winter.

[@TheVantard]

May aswell just use latex caulk. This stuff is garbage on anything deeper that 1/4 inch. The most frustrating product I have ever used

[@OvGraphics]

No good deed goes unpunished Mr. Craftsman. No need for the yippy yappy putty snob critics to attack you like that. (As a complete beginner I take to heart their point about the points but the way some went about it with their noses out of joint and sticking straight up in the air just ticks me good.) I for one have your vid stashed. Best one on the net for the tube putty, hands down. Dap ought to reward you. Great job and a huge help and thanks! And PS for Putty snobs. Those that can't...criticize. Where are YOUR vids demonstrating your excellent self-professed talent? Hmm?

[@TheDailyPracticeBlog]

Wish I could like your comment more than once. Seems to be a lot of glazing virtuosos out there but no videos demonstrating their prowess.

[@lindseydutton7824]

One of the very best "how to" videos I have ever come across. Nicely detailed and orderly presentation with an excellent review at the end with handy reminders.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Lindsey Dutton Thanks

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Good question, for this particular window I did not use them since they are only small panes of glass. I case of larger panes I would, Many older windows with divided light like this example did not use them. On a large window you should, it would make it easier to install and just support the glass more I do not feel that the points would be any advantage in this case and would just ad another step, expense and time. Thanks for asking and be sure to subscribe!

[@yukokanegawa6636]

Thanks for the video. You saved me a lot of time because I started using the oil based one and I haven't cleaned the windows good enough. And I was using my finger with nitrile gloves on and the gloves would get too tacky after a couple of minutes. Then I realized I must be doing something wrong here. Thanks , sometimes simple things go along way in making life easier.

[@simplyraw1369]

Same! I HATE this oil glaze! Hopefully, This will work easier!!!

[@Chriserf]

My first time using DAP, and I just need advise on how to apply. You gave even more helpful hint on the tool. Thanks, I feel more confident apply task at hand.

[@hilyete1]

For novices: If you haven't used a caulking gun before, you'll notice that usually there is a small wire "rod" on the bottom side of the gun that is held in place by a screw that allows it to be folded back out of the way, or swung to the front where it sticks out like a bayonet. That little rod is used to slip down the opening of your caulking tube nozzle to break the aluminum seal.

[@Mainly-melty]

Great video very helpful Can you report how the dap has held up now these years later ?

[@danan9037]

Thanks for putting out the video, nice techniques, especially tooling off the compound. I'd add a couple things: prime the rabbets and let dry. DAP calls for a thin back bead and glazing points. If your interiors are stained use clear silicon. The pro-tips of having a little container of water and two rags are key. Well done

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Thank you and your welcome! I'll be posting some more videos on windows soon. I made two arch top stained glass windows and window frames that hinge like double doors. I plan on making a video just to show them so people can see how simple it is and that they can do something similar with little to no experience. I'll post a link to this video once I make the video but if you would like to get updates of my videos subscribe to my channel. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your projects.

[@forliberty1805]

My husband has been glazing windows for over 25 years and he said this involves way too many steps taking much longer. Customer's wouldn't be able to afford us if we did it with that many steps. Just use the caulk gun on the side (instead of the end like you were using) and it fills it in nicely.

[@shannonmcghee4887]

For Liberty thats why its a diy vid

[@spikeboston2012]

This is perfect if you need a speedy paint job and don't want to wait a decade to paint. So the customer can have painted windows in 2 days and not the unsightly white glaze for a while

[@DanielRodriguez-cv6bh]

O

[@freedomranch6094]

Great work and voice. Nice to see honest pride of work in a youngster. You’ll have a good life. God Bless

[@downhill240]

I'll use the things I learned here in the next 15 minutes!

[@kjhfamily8352]

Thank you! I had to replace the window in an old barn that blew out in a storm. It might have been oil based, but it was so old that most of the paint was pealing off. So I sanded it down really well (yes, I used a mask, and maybe it was even lead based paint from 100 years ago, so I probably should have used an N95), then I used water based primer (2 coats) then latex outdoor paint (2 coats). Bought the DAP 33 for the glazing, and after reading the instructions realized I couldn't use it because it was for oil based paint. So after several other searches on what to use, I found your video and will do the DAP latex glazing and give it a try. I appreciate the video, it gives me more confidence, since I've never done this before. I already had my points in before watching this video. I had purchased points at the hardware store, but found my Dad's old points from years ago. I guess he did this himself too, but he's not around so I can't for his advice. Another video suggested I place a small bead behind the glass to seat it, so I'll do this too. Keep up the good work, I'm going to use your technique!

[@dieselXJ]

You didn't bed or pin the glass... its great you can work the sub par product. I only use dap glaze for bedding (something ya didn't know was needed) FYI glass needs to be set( or beded) in glazing before its glazed

[@joshweigel1131]

a lot of caulking guns have a metal rod for popping the foil or poking through dry latex

[@kevinm5564]

Was thinking the same thing. Also, the kid needs a better caulk gun. That think looks like it requires a lot of effort on dense material. Ace sells one with higher pressure per pull that really helps and it's only 8 or 9 bucks

[@sandrabien-aime3527]

Thank you!!! I needed replace a pane on my french door and was looking for how to complete the job because I broke the moulding. Great job!!! You made it so easy!!!!

[@cattafin]

Nice job tooling the glazing. I am a professional painter and know you've done it a lot because inexperienced people do not get that result. I have used the Dap 33 for over 20 years but recently tried the tube and it really is great. I noticed you did not use any glazing points to secure the pane in the rabbet. That is potentially dangerous because since glazing stays somewhat soft and flexible for a few months until it cures and the latex glazing in the tube for caulk guns never really gets hard. Anyone that might push against the glass from inside,like a child or someone Windexing the,could push it right out.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Nick C I've taken apart a lot of windows, with many of them not having points. For panes this small and especially on my own project, I just don't worry about it. On a larger pane, I'd use them. If one pops out, I'll fix it. Thanks for the comment.

[@cattafin]

Yea, you're right about that.

[@pcsunbum]

Aren’t glazing points necessary to hold pane in place?

[@KameraShy]

YES! Further, it is necessary to back putty between the frame and the glass. Otherwise it won't seal and you risk breaking the glass.

[@VJification]

Glazing points hold the glass in place so that it dose not fall out. Glazing keeps the water from rotting the wood.

[@dustbat]

@@VJification You guys saved my questions and my time watching this any further.

[@breakmanradio2530]

​@@KameraShyYeah, you're supposed to (1) apply putty to the muntins (2) place glass in muntins and (3) apply muntin around the edges.

[@breakmanradio2530]

​@KameraShy I worked with a guy yesterday and he also skipped the step of applying the glazing BEFORE putting in the new pane of glass. Wtf do I do now?

[@debron3005]

This was very helpful. Broke a window and was able to get it replaced myself with help from this video

[@robertpellarin5560]

I started using DAP latex window glazing a few years ago, mainly because I thought it was a good idea. I had a lot of difficulty dealing with it, just because it's softer, stickier and tough to tool when fresh.I tried a different approach that I've now been using very successfully. What I do is apply a heavy bead of the latex caulk all around the window without worrying about how pretty it looks. I just make sure that it goes right to the edge. I then leave it for about 3 days, to let it set up. The I go back with my sharp Olfa knife and carefully trim it to the angle I want. Leaves a nice, even smooth finish. You probably waste about one-third of the amount you use, but the time saved and nice finished look make up for the small extra cost.I still follow the traditional approach of bedding the glass first in the latex and putting points in to hold the glass (especially on larger panes). Doesn't take that much more time to do this.Thanks for putting up that video. I think it's a pretty decent product!

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

On most of these windows I squirted all the latex compound onto a board and tinted it with black chalk line chalk. It dries it up a little and makes it easier to tool, with the grey paint, I didn't want to see the white compound from the inside, it worked good. I've also done it with oil based Dap 33, works good there too.

[@shanec9672]

I just reglazed some windows for a friend, and was similarly frustrated when I attempted to tool the glazing after finishing it. I'm doing another old window project soon, and on top of the tips in the video like having water handy and cleaning your knife and all that, your comment is exactly what I was looking for to get a better looking finish without spending all of the extra time applying the oil-based version of the compound and waiting for it to cure. Thank you!

[@davidk3119]

Is it necessary to put the glazing behind the window as well as well as above it as shown in the video? Also, do you need to use push points? Thank you!

[@web1187]

You should still put glazier points in if that stuff starts to dry out there's nothing holding it in the frame anymore...

[@Jguy365]

We use this kind of glazing where I work but, in my own experience, I've only used putty. I've had trouble getting used to this material.

[@karenkrell2793]

This is the best instructional video I've seen for reglazing windows.

[@mikephillips8406]

Great tips - thanks man! Trying to decide between this and Sarco type M.

[@bluegorillacookies]

I almost didn't watch this because I could tell it was a young guy and there was another video with an older guy, who I assumed would probably know more than some whipper snapper. Then I realized it was the Homestead Craftsman! Thanks so much for the helpful video!

[@gunther955]

I wish I had your patience . lol

[@sandihandi7831]

Your video is very instructive, HOWEVER, to "puncture hole" in the nozzle was incorrect on the tube I got. I had to drive back to the store and they "unscrewed" the nozzle and used a "hack saw" to cut the top off. THEN, you can use it. Not sure why my Dap Glazing tube was different.

[@brianharris8385]

Very well explained, Thank You. Now I know how to do it. Going to glaze a couple window panes that I just replaced

[@bradhs9275]

Word.

[@rochelle5772]

Thanks for the video! I’ve decided to go with the latex window glazing instead of the dap 33 putty as exterior oil based primer has been sold out for months! Do you have any idea the longevity of this glazing?

[@frogger893]

2020 any new glazing products? Robotic glazer for home use? Everything sucks lol This is a big gooey mess and sags. Dapp 33 takes forever to dry before paint. I hate to say it but I'll probably be using this again because I'm running out of time and need to get storm windows on ugh Fortunately only have some shorter sections to repair and in the past have put painters tape on glass as guide and then pull right after tooled so a lot less to clean and helps from going completely crazy

[@MarkEcker]

A good tip that I learned from an experienced handyman was cleaning the putty knife after use by scraping it with a utility knife. He took the knife and would scrape the blades of the putty knife until they were squeaky clean. Great video, I usually use the DAP that comes in a container, but after seeing this video I'll probably purchase it in the tube form. Thanks for sharing and keep the videos coming.

[@patrickpreisinger5923]

Thanks for this. I just applied this stuff to two windows. I guess I should've watched this video first. It wasn't fun. What is the sound in the background? Cicadas?

[@herbrachel3663]

That looks terrible. The 33 does a lot better. Easy to work with. No crap running down the window. I'm currently using some of that junk on a job. But not by choise.

[@alexmoore447]

This product looks horrible.....why you wouldn't just caulk it straight from the gun, or putty it as normal. This just seems like a retail product

[@Mainly-melty]

Just wanted to give everyone my experience on glazing my 15 porch French windows I started with this video using this method , I was very unhappy with the product and the fact you must prime the surface first with oil based primer I then went to the dap glaze n a jar like putty this was a bit easier to use but same thing over all it was not fun Lastly I finally went to silicone, high elastic type and it was superior in all ways , it was 10x cheaper ,10x easier and in the end looked the best If you are doing this go with silicone

[@bruceoronte8696]

Good explanation, but why didn't you " Bed " the glass and use points to hold the glass in before you completed the outside bevel...???

[@beezerdoodle6140]

Thanks for the tips and I enjoy your relaxed, down-home style. I tried the oil based putty and it was not for me. I will try the Dap latex now that I have watched your clear instructions.

[@jameslund221]

Can I just glaze over the hard stuff that doesn’t fall out ? Or should I spend all day cleaning hard ass 40 year old putty that won’t come off?

[@stevanmagdaz7904]

Where are the glazing points to hold the window panes in place?

[@watching99134]

What do you do if your glazing compound has started to dry out? (and you don't want to buy a new one) One website I saw said mix it in with hot water, another said linseed oil.

[@jpretzel]

I wonder how long this putty lasts. Is it like latex caulk where it breaks down quickly outside?

[@DejuanJohn]

My dumb ass used the oil based took 4hrs to install on the same type of window 🤦🏾‍♂️ now a month to dry.

[@stevec3h8]

Great video. I wish I would have watched it before I started glazing with the oil based variety. On the video, I appreciate the care you took to get the lighting and angles right. It really helps. A question on glazing ... Some of the old glazing on my windows is still in place fine, but has some small cracks. How bad is it to just rub new glazing compound over the cracks, then repaint? I could fill the cracks in 20 minutes. It would take me 10 hours or more to completely re-glaze. Appreciate any insights here.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

stevec3h8 Hi, there's a difference in the water and oil based but I think both are good in most situations. Thanks for the compliments on filming, this was the first video I filmed, It has some issues and I've improved since then but glad you liked it. As for your small cracks, I don't know. I think filling them would work, basically just use the compound like spackle and fill them quickly. Do a test, get one window filled done and see how it works, let the compound dry up some and then paint. I know the kind of cracks your talking about, very small. Paint alone might fill them, your could also maybe use exterior caulk, maybe a little easier to work into the cracks. Now of course, this is not the traditional way to go, but I would definitely try something simple before doing all the windows, especially if you solution is going to get your the same results in the end. Good luck.

[@robertkane346]

I hear 17 yr.locusts

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Yep

[@petergdk]

Thank you for your great video. I know this is an old video, so hope you see my question. When tooling the glazing with the lengthwise and angled motion, you mention that you remove the excess that squeezes out onto the window with a razor. You know - the putty the is on the pane beyond the "knife line". Do you do this while the putty is wet, or scrape it away when dry? I just tried to remove the excess putty from my window while the putty was wet, and i was VERY messy, and smeared quite a lot onto the pane, even with a sharp blade.

[@Allaahesuno]

For sure it comes off easier when it’s dried

[@southerncrosspoker5278]

I appreciate how you are trying to help folks but this video is horribly wrong. I am a glazier. Timber glazing relies on a 3 step method to fix the glass both for weathering and safety. Here you are doing only (1). Back putty or silicone must be used behind the glass before any front work is done. This stops leaks, rattles and hides unsightly gaps. Here you applied none. You MUST use glazing sprigs (points). Over years of weathering they are sometimes the only thing that does not break down. I have repaired many a timber window to find all the putty broken down, loose and non existant but the steel points still survive. they also help to hold while the putty/silicon cures. Regardless of panel sizes those small panes in a storm would be like ninja stars with the wind forcing them out. My experience with all these 'in a tube' glues are they fail. They break down, they look terrible, they shrink and are hard to paint. Stick to linseed putty. Use clear silicone in the rebate before setting glass and buy some handyman push pints in a box. Not trying to rain on your parade just trying to help!

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Wow, this is quite a bit of attention for my little video, thanks! As for your comments, I agree with most. But most home owners are not going to go that far for repairs. I am offering a simple solution that if done carefully and with skill produces long lasting results in a short amount of time. As for the points, I've removed glazing compound from many windows like these that did not have them and they held up great. Also, for smaller panes, they do not have as much force on them as larger panes. If you live in an area prone to high winds, you should take the step to add them. From using this product myself, I have got good results, both function and apperance. If you ever make a video on the topic let me know. I could link to it so people could consider your take on things. Thanks again for the comment!

[@Jgunnink2]

The Homestead Craftsman You should NEVER install glass without glazing pins. Very dangerous. Also, put your window on a flat surface, it will save you so much time. There is also no need for water if you use the standard compound with an ANGLED putty knife. You'll save SO much time. That stuff in the tube is a sticky mess. i dont even know why they sell it.

[@prominentsinglesinternatio4168]

I think I will do everything you say but stick to the tube.Im painting 3200 exterior homes 20 plus windows all have to be done in a week's with confidential 33 I caint even prime the glaze within a week. So I need something that's faster. Defintly agree with being with silicone and putting adequate amount of points. I do believe they now have seeded oil tube glazing on the market..I would go the original 33 if it were my home and had the time to do it rite.

[@dennisdebow4766]

Great video! thanks for the tips! What is that howling sound in the background? Made it really hard to listen all the way through,lol.

[@greysondeane4000]

This product is shit long term and you need to pack the bed before putting the glass in then you need glazing points then glaze

[@kathyemmel3269]

Good demonstration using the Dap latex window glazing. Up to this point I have only used the Dap 33 glazing compound and I am tired of the drying and cracking from several years of thermal cycling. I woulld reccommend seating the pane of glass into the frame on a bead of glazing compound applied to the frame as a seal. This will also "float" the glass pane in the compound.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Kathy Emmel Thanks.

[@ArgoBrisk]

Fucker made it look so easy and here I am and it's all fucked up. 🤦‍♂️

[@barbcandus]

thanks I repurpose old windows into crafts

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

Thanks for sharing your technique. Most glazers back bed the sash bars by putting a small amount of putty along the rabbets of the sash bars to keep the pane from breaking under pressure if there are old window points or nails or other imperfections in the sash bars and to ensure a weather seal from external water intrusion. Without such a seal, there is a good chance that water contact with the sash bars will tend to rot them out in a few years, even though they were painted beforehand. Your method involves being able to remove the complete sash and lean them back while you work, thus avoiding having to use any window points to hold the panes in, as you would have to do if reglazing an installed window. Your experience may be different from the old way of doing things, and I appreciate your showing us how to apply latex putty from a caulk gun - I've never had much luck doing that. Take a look at this link - kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5qwk2ObjrSfnsU

[@craft0143]

This is a mess. No glazing points, no bedding and the cleanup looks sloppy.

[@problemsulfer]

do you live in the south? i hear some familiar background noise...

[@TheScaredFearless]

Great video, thank you. I can see the artist touch!

[@freetolook3727]

No points to hold glass in?

[@miklop1993]

ToughAncientSpark exactly, he should use silicon or something

[@ness9111]

Thanks. This is the first job I have had that I am trying to use the tubed glazing. I started yesterday and told myself I need to find a youtube vid to see exactly how this is supposed to work. Very well explained and good demonstration. Thanks again.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

ness9111 your welcome.

[@SammyEddie]

You didn’t put the little pieces of metal in to hold the glass into the window. Kind of a huge step.

[@jqentertainment6966]

Use a plastic putty knife to avoid chances of scratching the glass

[@Jgunnink2]

Yeah, I have owned a screen and window repair company for years and you are skipping so many essential steps...and yet ALSO making it harder for people. First of all, you NEED glazing pins for safety. DO NOT rely only on glazing compound to hold the weight of ANYTHING. Also, a lot of people like to have silicone underneath the glass, but that's not always necessary. But most of all, this glazing compound in a tube actually works horribly. It's a very sticky mess as opposed to the standard glazing compound, which is WAY easier to work with. There is no need for water. I could do this entire section of windows in about 5-10 minutes with standard glazing. Also, it's WAY faster if you set the window down on a flat surface, not upright like he has it here. Also, it's way easier to use an ANGLED putty knife.

[@Timetonut]

You seem dead set against this common stuff in the tube, aside from the pins, what did he forget or skip?

[@etm567]

Go watch a professional. Bedding the glass is important. the points or pins are what keep the window in place. Old glazing falls off. You don't want the glass to fall out, do you? Or maybe you do, so you'll have to reglaze in just a few years. GOd! Men! Can't stand to let someone inform them. Yeah, he says he taught himself in his bedroom.

[@tmilholin7552]

So its not really a glazing compound its a caulk?

[@karlphilip2329]

are push points not necessary with this product?

[@rhondakeller2592]

You didn’t make a bed. You have to make a bed first

[@fireboy967]

This was just the tutorial I needed ! well done!

[@speedtrapp219d2]

Comes out looking like shit toss the junk windows and replace them don’t fuck around with this junk

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

Looks great years later

[@JB-ol1zn]

Being tired of waiting for the traditional oil-based compound to set up enough to paint and then the added step of an oil primer I am definitely going to give this a try (I have about 40 windows in my new home all needing reglazing/putty, some large, some divided lite and several small square stained glass type). I am kind of concerned that no setting bead or glazing points were used but maybe I'm missing something here. I was planning on setting the glass into a very thin bead of DAP Dynaflex Ultra in clear as some of my sash are painted and some are still natural wood. Thank you for the great video, very informative!!!

[@shawneeshell38]

I just purchased my grandmother's house and all the windows are like this an need redone. This has been the most helpful video I've come across. Plus you're a cutie.

[@cslloyd1]

what is the difference between this window glazing compound and acrylic latex caulk, eg ALEX at Home Depot?

[@terryroberson2658]

I've been a master painter for 40 plus years. This latex glazing is the worst idea that dap has ever made. I'm very good at glazing windows but this stuff looks like shit no matter what you do. It's very thin and hard to work with. I highly recommend that this product should not be sold PERIOD

[@sadjaxx]

Did you use metal glazing points?

[@curiouscat3384]

All these guys demonstrate but not detailed enough in descriptions. First of all, a discussion and demonstration of removing the old glazing would be helpful to neophytes. AND more details on how to finesse the application, such as, how big a hole to snip on the tip of the applicator to accommodate different depths, sizes of the muntins. Good and easy caulking is a combination of hole size, steady speed and squeeze flow pressure that no one seems to describe - just a lot of "sort of" "kind of" "you just gotta play with it" "you'll figure it out". Not helpful.

[@joanalee3487]

O my ..have put painters caulk on all wrong...even used table...what a mess i have now...So by using your method I may just try it 1 more time ...3's the charm.

[@matthewtymon2090]

I've done many windows with both oil and this dapp water based and I prefer the dapp by far because its easier to work with, especially if ur comfortable with a caulking gun, it's doesn't require any kneading making it easier and faster to work with, the only down side is while it does skin over pretty quick,the skin isn't dry enough for well over a week, one thing I found from experience is that when using water, as he did, which I do the same thing amd woukd highly recommend, you have to be careful and wipe up an water drip immediately because ifit runs down the window pane and beads over your freshly coated bottom, it ends up creating an erosion effect and once it fully cures it will eventually crack, by then the skin is cured enough where it isn't mendable forcing you to have to redo it or leave it looking like garbage. The BIGGEST advice that I could give any trying this, regardless of what you use to spread/shape your lines and corners, clean tools and lots of water will make your job not only easier will look much cleaner in the end, that's if you want it to look like it did from the factory

[@MegaSuperPainter]

I've been painting for 15 years. I specialize in historical homes. I re-glaze windows all the time. The 33 oil base compound applied with a blade is the cleanest. But the latex dap brand (used in caulk gun) works IF you know what you're doing. I hate to say anything bad about this guy. But he's doing it completely wrong. The tube has a tab at the end of the it. You don't hold the gun at a 90 degree angle as shown in the video. You hold it almost straight up and down and use it to form the glaze. If done properly you shouldn't even need a blade. I typically run 2-3 panes at once. Then gently form your corners with your finger. You shouldn't even tough the glaze. It's like finish caulking. The head of the tube does all of the work. The tab at the end of the tube give you a clean cut. Sorry buddy hate to knock your video. But you're making a huge mess and wasting time.

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

MegaSuperPainter I challenge you to a dual........just kidding. Thanks for the input, this was my first video I posted and it's not the best but I just don't want to delete it. While I might not be doing it the best way, I got really good results, that once painted looked as good as the 33 compound. Your critical comment was nicely written, most people just tell you how stupid you are and that your an idiot if they don't like your video, Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@mikelisacarb]

Kudos to MegaSuperPainter! Somebody finally criticized this video in a factual AND respectful manner! To the rest of you ........ How about a little courtesy? It goes a long way toward making the world a better place!

[@prominentsinglesinternatio4168]

I'm asking you because you sound experienced do you bed yours first with glazing before putting window in?

[@jasonsoulie1337]

Okay I mean no disrespect but everything and I mean everything that you said in this video is wrong. The purpose of that product is that no tool should be required. Number one he holds the square tip incorrectly it should point up and down and run sideways glazing should go from the edge of the wood up to the glass at a 45 degree angle now this doesn't have to be perfect but you should know what a 45 looks like. It should go up to the top edge of the wood on the other side of the glass

[@rosscobosco]

Great work, but why am I looking at you from inside a bucket

[@thehomesteadcraftsman8975]

I can't be sure what you do in your own house.

[@mrvaj2021]

As a glazer, that was horrible to watch lol

[@KJ-tq3sm]

9yrs ago......haha, yeah you can tell

[@ottocodingian9776]

thanks buddy. my own experience today was a disaster. could not get the jar of dap to work with me. the push points would not go into the wood. glass didn't break but probably will. screw the pros. they wanted 200 bucks to come do this. next time my wife says she broke the key off in the lock, I will call a locksmith.

[@yvonnehillis2461]

Glad I watched your video before I busted out the oil based putty! Your way is so much easier............thank-you, Yvonne (London, Ontario)

[@5crassrocker]

Some methods are obsolete, caulking would act like a bed as it is forced in there. I'm no glazier but do intall sound proof windows for radio studios and such. Could be like an old school tile guy telling me to hot mop when RedGard membranes are more efficient and less costly to apply. They both do the job but one is more work with the same result

[@samdiaz4833]

What is glazing? I accidentally got it instead of silicone (to cover holes on walls and stuff) Im not a pro or anything close to that I just wanna cover up the holes in the wall 😂😭

[@jhoffman2203]

great tips, love the can ,rag and knife. I'll be doing that in the future. I just used this stuff and it skinned over on me, I which point I had to say good enough.

[@victoza9232]

7:09 Three cups of coffee later...

[@jillpallante5961]

This was very helpful, but you didn’t put glaze down the center on the wood between the panes. Does that mean I don’t have to? That’s where I’m really messing things up.

[@ldr4278]

You are the Man ! Thank you very much. Very helpful. Dap does not even have a good video on their website. Thank you again. I subscribed by the way.

[@cowdough94]

what a mess! lord

[@elikess3961]

I’ve try it and don’t like it,

[@sam111880]

Seems as you don't have to be to picky at what caulking you choose as long as its a good silicone/rubber/latex based for exterior uses /bathrooms caulking that can hold the window reasonable well to reinforce the glazing clips.

[@gwenscoggins1]

Thank you so much for showing me how to use it :) I bought the Dap in the tube but I didn't know exactly how to use it :) Now thanks to you I do !

[@webbsteroni]

No back bead?

[@damiendegrasse]

I wonder how many people have ruined their glazing job by not bedding in or using glazing pins.

[@DiylikeaProbyKeith]

Thanks for your video it’s helped me on this window fix doing it for the first time

[@rickmandigo6673]

You really missed the boat here. The panes should have been bedded into a clear silicone bed and secured with points. Then you can use the glazing compound.