How to Grow Amazing Plants with Compost Tea - Masterclass with Dr. Elaine Ingham (Part 3 of 5)

Dr. Elaine Ingham presents her compost tea and extracts masterclass. She covers why to use compost tea, key compost tea ingredients, how to make compost tea, and how to apply compost tea for the most benefit.
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[@rcarver4049]

The protozoa propagation info is something I have never heard before. Thanks.

[@t.properties6878]

Read Teaming with microbes.

[@SHANONisRegenerate]

Im loving this Series! Thank you Diego

[@victorb5]

Love the series, thank you!

[@shazzbotz]

Thanks, a nice listen. wish we could see what she references around 10 minutes. pictures do show later on

[@gmone7925]

Your Queen 👸 of the SOIL!!!!

[@erbauungstutztaufgnade1875]

Thank you very much God bless!

[@williamwaters4506]

It is stunning how many KZbin videos there are where people recommend putting every imaginable additive in their garden and the never mention anything about getting the soil tested. Just dump all kinds of anything in the soil and expect great results.

[@Ultimatefitness360]

Can we use vermicompost or leaf mold ??

[@pabloesteban6183]

Can we use organic honey instead of molasses for added sugars in the soil? I can't find information regarding the impact of antibacterial properties of honey in the soil, especially for the mychorizal fungi network. I am asking for use in potting mixes and garden beds in greenhouses.

[@sadow51]

If the compost has humous acid in it already why should I add more? If I am not trying to grow more fungi

[@tedhiggins262]

I put my airstones in boiling water for five minutes before use. Works for me.

[@carolyndelvalle9387]

Are these places and farmers still in business almost 20 years later and are they still using the soil food web methods?

[@jacobclark89]

How do I give my tomatos the sulfur they need without hurting the good critters in the soil ?

[@rickmatz4456]

Is a ten year old hard packed manure pile in Alberta worth 200 bucks an acre to haul and spread.

[@Blackhawk182182]

I have a small pile ,, and my moisture in on par, even if i turn it 2 times a week . i still find a few Ciliates, not many but still... how on earth am i going to create a fungal dominant pile without any Ciliates when still after turning 2 times a week i still find them ??

[@TheEmbrio]

You need more than 9 cubic yards /1 cubic meter to let your pile heat up, kill bad guys, and then you need fungal food (cellulose, lignin, kelp) to grow the hyphae

[@TheKritter91]

The right foods will attract your desired organisms in to your pile. Fungal foods: Humic acids Complex Proteins Kelp Oatmeal Bran Fish Hyrdolysate Wide Carbon:Nitrogen ratio foods Bacterial Foods: Molasses Sugars Simple Proteins Simple Carbohydrates

[@jacobclark89]

Man, it sounds like we need to tell the men in black about the giant jurasic fungi ! LOL

[@TheGroundskeeper]

I literally add sulphur (gypsum) to molasses for liquid culture to grow mushrooms. I don’t know what the heck she’s smoking on that

[@earlshine453]

It''s all aerobic. What about the non-aerobic methods of producing compost or fertitlizing fluids? I have no clue why my broad beans are growing 50 percent higher than the previous 5 years and are producing 50 percent more pods after I administered a diluted an-aerobic rotted down sludge of weeds to them. Even very few black flies visible. My raised beds are no-dig, had the 6 inches of compost added initially and 1 inch of compost added every year, during 5 yrs. The fluid did not seem to be counter productive. Maybe the weather was good, or the no-dig soil got really well, or the recently administered charcoal to the compost heap may have contributed. Big ??? marks in my eyes, no clue

[@TheEmbrio]

She’s all about aerobic compost , compost extract and compost tea. It’s of course ’safer’. But korean natural farming and plant decay extracts like comfrey etc, do use anaerobic processes and thus spread that kind of bacteria and organisms... Probably as most things in life, the soil needs a balance of then2 and your beans were lacking what3ver you brought them, they then thrived.

[@Megan0Murray]

This is not for ‘beginners’. A Master class for ‘beginners’? I’m a convert to this organic system and I’m not feeling confident after watching hours of these programs.

[@pamcreations]

Too much information? I see A LOT of mistakes we have been doing.. & I'm not even sure on how to start doing things right😅

[@JamesBrown-fd1nv]

Repetition is the mother of skill.

[@dulce0403]

You know the single feature I find in common between Dr. Ingham and Dr. Bugbee disdain for their students/audience and differing opinions. Absolutists

[@thehillsidegardener3961]

I KNOW the Dr is adamant you don't make compost tea anaerobically even though that's what most gardeners do - we just want to cram a bunch of nettles or comfrey or whatever in a bucket of water and not mess around with bubblers and all that. Is that really that bad? With that, my understanding is not so much that you are beefing up the soil microbiology, which ought to be decent anyway, you are just trying to add a bit of extra plant-available nutrients for a nutrient boost in the vegetative period. It's usually heavily diluted anyway, and I'm sure the existing microbiology can deal with the incoming anaerobic bacteria. The real question is whether it even provides much of a boost. A few online experiments I have looked at suggest not really...

[@t.properties6878]

Most gardeners grow aneorbicaly? I sure Don't. And I'm positive the Dr doesn't as well. The number one reason why I personally don't is because of E.COLI. especially spraying anaerobic bacteria in vegetables. Sure, one could make the argument that the anaerobic pathogenic harmful microbes die when they come into contact with oxygen, but wtf would one risk that. Say a droplet lands in a head of lettuce and doesn't die. There goes the RA farming because some idiots on yt thought it was a smart idea to spray ecoli intentionally on food people eat. Better stick to conventional I guess

[@thehillsidegardener3961]

@@t.properties6878 You're right about that, I should've qualified that I don't use those compost teas foliarly on any leaf we are going to eat, mostly I just water around the plant with it. TBH the question is whether those compost teas even have much effect if you have at least half-decent soil, I am not sold on them actually making much difference, I have only been trying them as a bit of a supplement for tomatoes and peppers this year but I couldn't say whether they made much difference.

[@t.properties6878]

@@thehillsidegardener3961 it's interesting to think about. What I'm gathering from this knf jamda brew thing is it's more like a humic acid bath. It should be used right away. And if it sits a little it will still work as a soil application as it's adding biomass. Eventually if your soil is healthy the Benny's will outcompete the bad guys. It sounds like people are trying to make their own "organic" nutrients. It can be done and is being done but To Do so safely, I believe is not for everyone. You could actually blow yourself up.

[@thehillsidegardener3961]

@@t.properties6878 I think it's telling that some people, like Charles Dowding and other no-dig people just don't bother with teas or any supplements at all, they just add an inch or two of compost once a year and that's it, and seem to do fine, so I do wonder whether it's all a bit overblown. They do stink really badly too :D

[@TheEmbrio]

The brews and ferments are probably fine on the root zones. An already alive soil will manage. They do give a nitrogen boost (seen it in my garden) but too stinky. I’d ratherbcompost in place, compost in a heap, and water plants with compost extract (just 1 cup of compost diluted per watering can seems fine) This Dr talks about reviving dead soils, and treating foliarly diseased plants. I think that’s why she recommends to go on the safe side, the aerobic species.