How to hand stitch leather // Leather Craft 101 // EP04 Saddle stitch tutorial

Welcome to leather craft 101, the new miniseries aimed at helping you get started on your leather craft journey.
In episode four I will show you how to hand stitch leather! We will go over the differences between machine and hand stitching, show you how to thread your needles so they don't fall off your thread and then show you both the modern way of stitching, where the holes are made with a stitching chisel as well as the traditional method using a stitching awl.
I hope you enjoy the video.
Awl that I use: www.proatelier...
Polyester Thread: www.proatelier...
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For more information on linen thread: dasbookbinding...
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Leathercraft 101 Video Series:
Episode one: • Lets Talk Leather // L...
Episode two: • What Tools Do I Need? ...
Episode three: • What thread should I u...
Episode four: • How to hand stitch lea...
Episode five: • Your First Leathercraf...
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Tool Time : • Tool Time
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www.jhleather....
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Video Chapters
00:00 Intro
00:39 Machine vs Hand Stitching
02:32 Threading the Needle
05:48 Leather Sample
07:24 Modern Hand Stitching
09:50 Back Stitch
14:45 Modern Stitching Cont
15:04 Traditional Hand Stitching
23:33 Finishing Back Stitches
24:04 Finishing off
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#jhleather #leathercraft #bethemaker

[@heycidskyja4668]

The clearest and most comprehensive video on saddle stitching on KZbin! Thank you so much for such a fantastic presentation!

[@thomash.4501]

She is good and she really knows her craft but did you watch this video : kzbin.info/www/bejne/injYmpuXarhlpac ?

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 👍

[@michaelgreen7761]

I agree..great video

[@eugenesvoboda9177]

Unfortunately you did not explain what needle/s to use. Leather needles are different to needles used in sowing. From what I can see (and what I would use myself for such job) you are using ROUNDED HEAD needles. There are other needles for other leather work.

[@The.NateJames]

100% agree❤

[@Gunn4u]

OMG you are an incredible and patient teacher. Following your Direction is so simple. Thank you so much.

[@JHLeather]

Glad to hear you found the video helpful 😊

[@charlesburghardt9635]

Thank you for making this video! I have watched it 3 or 4 times over the past few weeks & today I was able to modern hand stitch my first project without any issues. Your clear explanation of the technique took all of the guesswork out of it for me & I'm looking forward to doing more!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found the video helpful 🙂

[@willielokie]

Thank you for making this! I always had issues with my back stitching not sitting properly next to each other. That was a brilliant explanation!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 😊

[@whuntjr1756]

Thank you so much! As a handyman I have a client with a leather chair back whose (machine) stitching came undone. I've never done leather work in 60 years, but your video allowed me to repair it better than new! I may have a new hobby!!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found the video helpful 👍

[@oktanis]

THANK YOU!!! I spent forever just trying to figure out how to set the thread in the needle! Very clear and comprehensive! Have a like, and a new subscriber! Keep these videos coming! Thank you soo much!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful 👍

[@THS-gq4tw]

Thank you so much, fabulous instructions. All the best & God bless.

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful!

[@freakazoidas]

I keep coming back to this tutorial. It helped me make beautiful stiches while making my first wallet without any errors. (With one exception when I didn't notice that I pierced the thread and had to stich back through the same hole in the thread to undo it :D) Definitely the best and the most straightforward tutorial on leather stitching on youtube.

[@JHLeather]

Glad this video has helped you in your crafting 👍

[@greeneyedcatwink]

Outstading tutorial! I was so slow at stitching and hurting my hands when going through 4 pieces of leather for a binding around a bag. Now I am way faster and it doesn't hurt my fingers at all! I am in love with leatherworking now! Thank-you for such clear and very well videographed lessons!!!

[@dmack1827]

Really well displayed and demonstrated, Jo. I have appreciated your stitching ability since your entry into the world of KZbin. Brilliant!

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊

[@james2592OldLeatherSmith]

OLD Leather Smith here, i am very happy you R doing so well in your videos. You R truly helping beginners in leather work. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 👍

[@karynr9751]

Great video!! Just got my first order of leather today!! Can't wait to hand stitch my first wallet!!

[@JHLeather]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@Arboreal_Fungi]

This is the best saddle stitch tutorial I've found. I just revisited it today as a refresher. Thank you!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful 😊

[@johnkmcgregor5209]

Wonderful thank you. I am now going to saddle stitch my late fathers glass case which I have put off and off because I didn’t think I could do it. Thanks to you I can, the holes are already there. John from Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@JHLeather]

You can do it! 👍👍👍

[@user-pw3nx3qy4x]

Thanks Jo! This is the best delivered video of hand stitching I’ve seen and I’ve watched many trying to learn the skill. With your help I can now confidently tackle some sewing. Keep posting we need tutorials like this to give us confidence 👍

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 👍

[@gussiegus4943]

Great videography, very good lighting and such clear instruction makes this the best tutorial on hand stitching that I’ve found yet. Thank you!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful 👍

[@williamseifert6761]

Great job teaching this method. I am starting my first homemade hunting bag and this really helped me get it right on the first try.

[@user-cs6bo2jn2n]

Jo, thank you so much for the excellent presentation of this comprehensive tutorial. You are an outstanding teacher: your use of acrylic to illustrate explanations of the hand v machine methods of the saddle stitch is inspired. Your step-by-step breakdown of how to ensure the successful combination of two needles is easy to follow. I particularly appreciated the tip re crossing the right-hand needle beneath the left - at first it seemed superfluous but, as I started to execute the stitches more confidently, I realised how this is a necessary step in training the right hand to operate efficiently once the actions become more automatic and fluid. I sought information in order to replace the trigger clip on my dog's lead. I am really chuffed with the result. Thank you, I would not have been able to achieve such a neat result without your instruction. Thank you for having the understanding, of what has become so natural to you, to break the saddle stitch down into such simple to follow instructions that everyone can achieve. I have really enjoyed stitching this small amount of leather and want to do more. Best KZbin presenter on working leather.

[@williammrdeza9445]

This was an excellent tutorial, including the great camera angles! Thank you for the clear and concise explanation of saddle stitching, including the use of stitching irons as well as pricking irons and an awl. I have struggled to sort out a number of different methods shown to saddle stitch and this video definitely reinforced the method I have settled on using, as well as introducing some additional tips. As noted below, the discussion of how to properly back stitch was extremely useful, as was the angle of pulling and tightening the thread after each stitch is made. I definitely loved the demonstration of the economy of motion employed when using the awl. Love your videos--keep up the great work!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found the video helpful 👍

[@ricardodurand422]

This was sooo helpful, thank you for all the videos you do for us all newbies.

[@RomaVega]

Wooow, thank you sooo much, Hermiona! Your leatherwork videos are no doubt the best.

[@JHLeather]

Wow, thank you! 👍

[@tomsdreamshopworx]

I am very new to leather work. Your tip about making sure you have not pierced the other thread as you put the second needle in was fantastic! I can not tell you haw many times I found out after the needle was all the way through :(. You are saving me a ton of time. Thank you!!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 😊

[@faithleger5603]

You're the best at explaining this that I found so far

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found the video helpful 👍

[@keithmagill4848]

Thank you, Jo! I have just bought some equipment to start my leatherworking and I was a bit worried about stitching, but this video has put my mind at rest🙂

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it helpful 👍

[@daveagbulos3218]

The best tutorial on leather craft!

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 👍

[@MolotoMan]

The best video tutorial, detailed, visual, thank you very much.

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it helpful 👍

[@robertkempe6461]

I have been saddle stitching a long time, but that was a great learning video. Thanx! from🇺🇸

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful!👍

[@veeplays5172]

wow. you’re great at explaining everything. loveeeeee it!!

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 👍

[@JanuszSyk]

Another batch of very useful tips. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 😊

[@davem0udb]

Just love your videos Jo, great instruction, great videoing and magic voice

[@JHLeather]

Glad you like them! 😊

[@craftyterrier]

Thanks Jo! I can see where I've been going a bit wrong with my stitching now. Time to level up!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it helpful 👍

[@suemcnab3059]

You're a fantastic instructor!

[@alandrewgibson]

Nice work Jo - Happy New Year!

[@mechminded2207]

That clear perspex idea was inspired.

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊

[@scottmattoon9054]

Great job. I would just help us newby's understand how you in particular finish off the cut ends. Thank you for your time 😊

[@PantheonEDC]

This just answered a question i have been trying to get answered for a few days now. The backside of my stitches were not stacking. Throwing the thread over the needle is what i needed to do. Now i just have to figure out how to do it without a stitching pony! Thabk you!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it helpful 👍 Reckon if you follow the way I do it, and make sure you cast if before you pull the needle out it should work, you'll just have to make sure it stays over when you pull the needle through

[@mechminded2207]

I picked up a tip after being taught by J.H.Leather - if you use waxed thread, you can use a frim object (your knife handle) to push the thread flat at the end against another firm surface (table), and you then have a 'blade' end to your thread, which is easy to push through your needles eye.

[@rrr40]

fantastic video very informative keep up the amazing work

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊

[@mtalhamtanveer5978]

Thank you so much for this video I am a beginner and I have started a handmade leather craft business.

[@JHLeather]

Best of luck! 👍👍👍

[@koktengri4797]

you are a true Teacher!❤ May Allah bless you .

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 👍

[@glemmari]

Very good video, rhanks for making it! It is interesting to see different ways of doing things. I was thoughed a bit different and I will try your style to see what works best for me.

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful 👍 There are many ways to do leathercraft so find a way which works best for you and run with that 👍

[@RussellChapman99]

I'm a rank amateur. Learning the process. First project is a sleeved case for glasses. Thanks for your videos :)

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊 and good luck with your glasses case 👍

[@RussellChapman99]

@@JHLeather It actually turned out ok. 2mm full grain veg tan leather, hand cut, hand stitched and hand dyed😁

[@justmeva]

You make that look so easy: I always have a hard pushing my needles through the leather that I am working with. Great video though - thank you.

[@JHLeather]

The more you do it, the stronger your fingers will get. Keep at it and it will get easier 👍

[@user-zm1ho5ko6s]

Finally!❤️🙋🏼‍♀️

[@asgharlone7867]

Very good for learner ❤

[@nazeernazim9843]

Very nice explanation and such a wonderful way of teaching I am very interesting of leather craft but I don’t know single part of it thank you very much now I learned hope more stitching method for shoes (I like to make shoes in future)

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it interesting 👍

[@alexkunzelman5825]

Thanks jo after a couple of watched times I'm stitching cleaner and trying to use the awl is a little more but lol time and repetition I'm sure I'll stop needing bandaids. 😅

[@JHLeather]

That's great! The more you practice, the easier things will become 👍

[@ToddJohnson15]

When you are starting with two backstitches your stitch holes are slanting up away from you. According to Armitage leather, your right hand needed should go on top of the left hand needle when moving in that direction. It then goes on the bottom when moving toward you. I'm not exactly sure why it matters though.

[@JHLeather]

There are many methods that people use, find one that works best for you and roll with that 👍

[@alandrewgibson]

Nice work Jo

[@JHLeather]

Thank you! 😊

[@daveturnbull7221]

Agree with @hetcidskyja4668 - clearest demonstration/tutorial on saddle stitching I've seen. The perspex at the start was a stroke of genius and really made things clear. On a side note, when you were pulling the threads through with one arm up and the other down I had flashbacks to watching Ginger Rogers dancing on the tv (showing my age a bit) 😁

[@JHLeather]

Thanks Dave 😊

[@1etcetera1]

Ты все очень хорошо объясняешь! Спасибо тебе.

[@gustgatt]

Muy didáctico. Para ver y repasar. Gracias.

[@ucool9735]

I love your video, thank you.

[@JHLeather]

Thanks for watching! 😊

[@daveci]

thx very much for clearly explaining the technique - Thx again

[@JHLeather]

You're very welcome! 😊

[@llewisiv]

Thank you for the very clear instructions. I have a question, what is the purpose of casting and is it a must do or for a particular look?

[@JHLeather]

Glad you found it helpful 👍 The casting helps the stitching on the back side of your project be more slanted

[@juanguerrero2151]

Muy bien 👌 me gustó tu explicación saludos y mucho éxito!

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊

[@amandaokhover7759]

So helpful, thank you!

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 👍

[@isaachoffmeister4188]

SUCH a fantastic video! One thing that I haven't been able to find is a way to handstich where both sides of the stitch are symmetrical. I use French stitching irons and one side of the stitch will have slanted stitches and the other side will have much straighter stitches (one side the thread goes from the low side of one hole to the high side of the other closest, whereas the other goes from the high to the low on the farthest sides of the stitch). Any tips on how to make that not happen? I've experimented a lot and haven't been able to figure it out. Thanks a ton!

[@Ashy-in4ym]

Try putting the right needle over the left instead of under when making the cross. And pull the right hand up and left down instead of the other way around. This works for me when using french pricking irons punched through all the way making holes on both sides.

[@dperisty1]

Great video, thanks!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you liked it! 😊

[@ricardodelbianco2116]

Jo! Nice to meet you! I'm from Brazil! Watching your videos, I became your fan! Besides, I think you are so cute! Congratulations! You are a very talented girl!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you like the video 👍

[@ricardodelbianco2116]

@@JHLeather Very Much!!!

[@seanditch4419]

Excellent video thank you

[@JHLeather]

Glad it was helpful! 👍

[@kjay8899]

Amazing! Thank you!

[@JHLeather]

Glad you liked it!👍

[@outdoornut]

Thanks!!!! Now I got this!

[@JHLeather]

Glad I could help! 😊

[@ginesrodriguez8570]

Enjoyed the video! I am having trouble with a 3 mm pricking iron and using .8 mm tigerthread. Any suggestions on how to keep from puncturing the existing thread when you backstitich?

[@charlievowell9812]

Hi great video it helped me learn how to finally stitch ! I was trying with the awl and was having a hard time pushing it through , should I buy a better quality awl?

[@kenjohnson3333]

Loved it. What was the stitching pony? Doesn't look like typical plywood.

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊 The stitching clamp is from Pro Atelier Plus and is made from Walnut: www.proatelierplus.com/product-page/modon-mini-adjustable-stitching-clamp

[@sisterbobby5666]

Hello Joe. Thank you for the video. I have been experimenting with stiching in different arrangements to try to find the most pleasing for both sides. This comprises of the punched side on the right face, and then stitching with both left hand and right hand priority, tensioning both threads up, both down, left up right down and right up left down. The most pleasing seems to be right hand priority, tensioning both threads down. I can't find reference to anyone else doing this which is making me think I'm doing something wrong. Any ideas? (I have European style stitching irons if this makes any difference).

[@farrelltyler5224]

Amazing video, technique and comprehensive instructions for saddle stitching! Have really enjoyed following your channel. May I ask, if I wanted the stitches on my finished side to angle as \ \ \ \ instead of / / / /, would I need to start threading from the opposite side and/or wrap the stitch under the needle instead of over the top? Thank you in advance!

[@zy6263]

Such a wonderful channel. Which mm stiching awl do you use on pricking iron uerope style ? 3mm or 4mm ? Sorry for my bad english

[@user-jo5fz8iw3b]

I notice you don't burn your thread after you cut the thread when your done ?? How do you secure that last threads after cutting them ?

[@abbaselsayed1515]

Firstly, love the videos and explanation, amazing stuff Secondly, what exactly is the purpose of casting the thread? Is it an issue if one deliberately avoids it, or forgets to do it?

[@kaye1035]

A really interesting and useful tutorial. I'm a complete novice and am trying to too stitch a pair of suede boots I have just shortened. I am finding that the holes are not very visible using the punch. Us tjus normal when using suede?

[@JHLeather]

With suede, as it is a soft/fibrous leather then the holes can 'close up' making them hard to find, even though they are there.

[@user-jo5fz8iw3b]

why are the stitches always slanted ? Do you ever use straight stitching ? What would you use straight stitching for vs slanted stitching ??

[@amolpatil8777]

I am doing saddle stitch for leather shoe,, please tell how to add tension to my stitches I want to make leather football shoe so that stitches need to hold on tight for all the hits its gonna take

[@Patmccalk]

I’m trying to grasp the concept of how the last half back-stitch locks that thread in place, every time I do this I trim them off, but then the half backstitch comes right back out the hole after a minute almost no effort

[@SidSomething]

Don't cut the thread flush with the leather - Leave a small length of thread sticking out, then melt it with a cigarette lighter.

[@Patmccalk]

@@SidSomething tyvm, this doesn’t work on all thread types though, does it? Just the ones which can melt?

[@SidSomething]

@@Patmccalk True, I'm using polyester thread but there are other types and some of them don't melt. Those are probably best dealt with by adding a secure knot of some sort.

[@fiskdaniel]

I love your tutorials You have helped me a lot! I'm a beginner in leather works. What would you say is the best or most price worthy leather to start with?

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊 I would say a vegetable tanned 1.5 mm shoulder would be a good starting point as you can create a lot of really nice smaller items with this whilst you are practising. Some stores will also sell these in smaller precut panels so you won't need to purchase a whole shoulder but say an A4 sized piece. In the UK, Pro Atelier Plus and Artisans Leather sell smaller pieces. 👍

[@jayplays568]

This was such a helpful video, both the explanations and the camera angles! Would you recommend a beginner learns the modern method or the traditional method first? Can the modern method be used for items such as wallets/cardholders/purses/bags/belts/etc?

[@JHLeather]

The modern method can be used when using thinner pieces of leather but for things like belts and bags, then I recommend learning the traditional method with an awl 👍

[@MaximRecoil]

I don't see what prevents the ends of the thread from eventually backing out of the stitch holes. There's no knot or anything else that's mechanically locking them in place; there's only friction keeping them in there. I would leave a little excess thread when cutting them (as opposed to cutting them flush) and then melt the ends and smush them down against the stitch holes with my finger. I know that doesn't look "pretty" but the thread could never back out of the holes without first breaking the now-mushroomed ends off. Also, what's the point of doing a back-stitch at the start of the stitching? With a saddle stitch the thread can never come out of the holes at the start of the stitching even without a back-stitch (unlike a sewing machine stitch), so is it just for extra strength in that area?

[@M1ke_A]

Great video... One minor comment. When running the needle thru the main thread length as demonstrated, the thread can slip out (as you stated). If instead you run the needle thru the short end, it will be locked and unable to slip out.

[@JHLeather]

Great tip 👍

[@russelljones3171]

Great video Jo, ? Where is the stitching pony from

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊 The stitching clamp is from Pro Atelier Plus and is made from Walnut: www.proatelierplus.com/product-page/modon-mini-adjustable-stitching-clamp

[@marfoo2775]

Very good video! One thing though, what is the difference between the diamond chisel and the stitch marker? When and why would you use which one? Thanks!

[@JHLeather]

Check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJOvhIilqLiqjbc

[@marfoo2775]

@@JHLeather Thank you for your reply. In this video you only mention that you use the diamond chisels only for 'quite specific situations'. You don't explain what these situations are nor what the difference is with the stitch marker. So, could you explain? I already have the diamond chisels as advised by another leather worker...

[@joenicotera2991]

@@marfoo2775 I use an old kitchen fork. Just clamped it in a vice and bent the prongs, then sharpened it. I'm sure that mankind has been working with leather for 20,000 years now and you would have gotten the same answer. If in your experience it doesn't matter, then it doesn't matter. I'm sure that @JHLeather needs a professional looking piece of work and if the stitch takes a lot of turns and runs through a lot of layers of leather, then the decision of wat are the correct tools is made before the work is put on the bench. Let us take two different pieces into account. One is a swede, (split leather) cell phone case, the other is a sheath for a bush crafting knife. The bushcrafting knife will be at least three layers of leather thick and the thickest leather you can obtain, if you would like to add a pocket or some loops your leather will be at least four layers thick. Now your stitches will also need to curve to fit the curvature of the blade. The cellphone case, on the other hand only prevents the phone from occasional abuse and will only be the thinnest and lightest material with the leather thinned even more around the perimeter. All the stitches will be through two layers of leather. The man who told you to purchase the pricking iron set would probably use the same tool for both items. I would. Of course, I could also use the kitchen cutlery method. However, the idea here is to ONLY USE THE ONE MEATHOD. Think the piece through, visualize the work before you do it and after you take out the tools that you plan to use, put the rest of the tools back in the box. This will cause the end result to look consistent. (Start with the cellphone case and make a matching case for the eyewear.) So long as the result is consistent it will be perceived as the work of an experienced professional. (Think I'll add a polyester felt lining. I can't believe anyone would want to talk on a phone that much, that much money, he could have hired somebody to talk to all day.)

[@user-jo5fz8iw3b]

round thread or flat thread - appears to be round thread ??

[@LockBits-ts6eo]

👍👍👍

[@55418und]

Who are good leather suppliers. Three suppliers are fine. If you prefer not to, no problem, I understand. I live in the states.

[@Shamuskler]

Is there a specific reason for using a mallet shaped like that instead of a hammer shaped one

[@JHLeather]

Not really, you just need most hammers/mallets will work

[@edfingleton9889]

TIL I saddle stitch like a leftie!

[@JHLeather]

Nothing wrong with that, this was the way I was taught with my awl, so my left needle follows it back through the holes. So long as you're happy with your stitching, there is no need to change it 👍

[@edfingleton9889]

@@JHLeather I’m still very much at the beginning of learning so definitely not happy with my stitching yet! This was a lovely clear video so thank you for doing that.

[@oldgeordiegeezer3086]

Instead of repeating the whole process, why didn't you just tell us at the beginning that the difference between traditional and modern stitching methods is the use of the awl?

[@SuperDutchman59]

Седловой шов одной иглой шилом (Голландский шов) Saadle stitch with one needle awl (Dutch stitch) kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIC9eYSiitpjf9E

[@SidSomething]

Why no casting on the back stitches ?

[@BlkKeyCptl]

Very poor display on threading needle. Something so detailed seems to have been rushed and vague

[@InMyBusyLittleShop]

Nice tips!

[@JHLeather]

Thank you 😊

[@bigsubful]

The best tutorial overall! Thanks

[@JHLeather]

You're welcome!