How to identify a bad main relay on a Honda (PGM-FI)

This is a 1999 Honda Accord with an intermittent no start complaint. Other symptoms include: stalling, long crank times, surging, bucking, poor transmission shifting.
Some quick work with the test light allowed me to zero in on a PGM-FI main relay issue, which was confirmed by a visual inspection on the relay board itself. If you can forgive my soldering work, done through a tiny video camera screen, then you can get an idea of how to repair these relays quickly and easily. Don’t forget to check the Related Videos for a follow up video, detailing the operation of the PGM-FI relay.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 15
Symptoms
intermittent no start
no codes present
possible stalling, long crank times, surging, bucking, poor transmission shifting
Fix
repaired the PGM-FI main relay
Tests shown
using scan data to check for a crank signal during cranking
using the check engine and immobilizer lights to identify possible issues
how to check for spark using an incandescent test light
how to check for injection pulse using an incandescent test light
how to check a fuel pump power feed using an incandescent test light
how to visually identify a failed solder joint on a PGM-FI main relay
how to repair a cracked solder joint
Tools used
Autel MS905 MaxiSys Mini Diagnostic System with Connector Kit - USA Version
www.jbtoolsale...
OTC 3633 Mini Circuit Tester
www.jbtoolsale...
Portasol SP-1K Soldering Iron, Cordless Butane
www.jbtoolsale...
Playlist
(Chapters 14, 15,16) Fuel Delivery and Fuel Pressure Testing
• (Chapters 14, 15,16) F...
Related videos
Operation and testing of a Honda main relay (PGM-FI) - an SD Premium video
• Operation and testing ...
How to test and fix a PGM-FI main relay - Honda/Acura
• How to test and fix a ...
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits Description and Operation
• Fuel Pump Electrical C...
How to test fuel pressure, injector pulse and spark with basic tools - Honda
• How to test fuel press...
No Start No Fuel Pressure Troubleshooting - GM 2.2 Ecotec
• No Start No Fuel Press...
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.

[@mrbriceno3949]

Wow this was probably one of the best educational mechanic videos on KZbin. you checked literally everything and explained it flawlessly.. i changed out my ignition wires distributor and rotor changed the fuel pump a few months ago .. its got to be the relay! Just came back from autozone it was the MAIN RELAY! The reason why i changed so many things is because the previous owners neglected the car for years then left it sitting for another 2 years.. forst thing i did was put a new j30a motor in it .. after a year and a half of driving it everything is giving out but its not that bad! Thanks again goodluck to all of you

[@mrgrump2534]

Why did you put a new motor in it ? my 2000 Honda accord ex has ben sitting for three years and the motor still runs like a top with 200,000 on the clock. I did start it every couple months though. Iam here cause I just tried to start it the other day and now it’s not getting fuel! It only starts on starting fluid, so I’m assuming it’s the relay or fuel pump… I love these Hondas because they’re so easy to work on, the fact that you don’t have to drop the tank and that they put that little door there to replace the fuel pump. Makes everything easier.

[@mrbriceno3949]

@@mrgrump2534 I was just about to say it was the fuel pump, I changed the motor bc the previous owner blew a gasket but those accord are bullet proof the tranny had 250k miles still strong original motor was left with no coolant blew a gasket at 200k I miss working on it, I have a 2018,civic hatchback sport now it’s a beast!!

[@gigi8528]

I’ve been having this problem for months, car sitting in heat for hours and dragging to start. I googled the problem and came across this video of fuel pump relay issues for Honda vehicles. I replaced my relay with a new one and so far it’s been 2 weeks with NO starting issues. Thanks for the tip!

[@daltonnicholson5630]

Did it have a bogging issue when acceleration and then clear up after like 3k rpms

[@jakubf1717]

@@daltonnicholson5630 mines doing that too. Have you managed to figure it out?

[@vonleyser]

Working on 1994 Honda Accord, cranks, no start condition, replaced the main relay with a new OEM Honda relay, still no start condition. After watching your video with the wiring diagram I will give it another look in the morning. Very informative and will be looking at more of your videos, between you & Eric the car guy you both present information in an easy to understand format. Thanks for doing this & I hope you will continue these videos.

[@mboonePOQ]

99 Honda Accord @ 430K miles. Issue of car starting 4 times in arrow then on 5th start it just cranked without starting. If I was just patient 5-10 minutes car would then start. I could live with that and did for over a year until motor started cutting off randomly when driving. Scary for sure. I replaced the ignition switch as many forums suggested that was culprit, but not for me as problem persisted. Found this video (thankfully) and I did have one cracked solder joint on main relay. Touched with solder iron long enough to let solder melt and repair failed solder joint. I tested car for 30 mile drive with 15 stop/starts along the way with 100% success and no engine cut off. I know a very short run time for testing and time will tell but I feel very confident issue is now resolved and I can't be more thankful for ScannerDan's video. Thank you & now on to + 500K miles on this great car!

[@brianyechout1058]

Great video man! I’ve been scratching my head on my daughters 1998 Honda CRV. We have spark, compression, and fuel on the return side of the fuel rail but probably not enough psi to fire the injectors due to this relay not powering the fuel pump. This was the best video I’ve seen so far on this subject! Thanks!

[@adibee88]

ScannerDanner, GREAT tutorial! I was having the same problem with my 2K Accord v6 coupe. Mine tended to no start after being off for around 15-30 mins, especially when it was hot outside, had a rough idle, and acceleration was crap. I visited Radio Shack tonight spent $24.00 total on the soldering and de-soldering kits, re-reviewed your video, followed your instructions and I no longer want to scrap my Accord! I had to re-solder 5 of the solder locations. I could see the hairline cracks, and the 2 larger solder joints were more bad off than the 3 smaller ones! Thank you for making this video, I was ready to drop another $750.00 because the "generic misfire" code would have someone thinking it was the fuel injectors or fuel pump! Keep up the great work! I wish I could've caught this video prior to replacing: the original relay, 1 fuel injector, idle air control valve, and the fuel pump regulator…

[@ScannerDanner]

+adibee88 thank you! And nice job fixing it yourself. Have a great day

[@vinnyvega1985]

It takes a real mechanic to diagnose a part and repair it, instead of just buying a new one and replacing it. Excellent work man.

[@donhenn4396]

I really do not believe that ScannerDanner is a mechanic.....I Have been in electronics my whole life (60 years),,,,,This man is an electronics technician. .

[@dondesnoo1771]

Don Henn yes saw this same crap ge TV's started with 630s ra101s truly he's Et. Not from outer space.sure you'll remember those#.

[@repnatl]

Glad I'm not the only one soldering to fix vs replacement. That relay ususally goes for $100 depending on the store. Soldering was a 10 minute repair. I grab these from the junkyard and repair them then sell them for cheaper than the shops makes a little money on my end too great video.

[@timmer9lives]

I’ve soldered many, many FP relays. Never had a problem

[@unclecaveman13]

I was about to spend 70 bucks on a new relay, found your video googling the part number and was able to resolder the broken joints. Thank you for saving me from having to spend 70 bucks on a beater accord that i bought for 500 bucks lol. thank you danner!!! your awesome!

[@TheMadmaxx1970]

Scanner Danner, You are the MAN!!! I wish most mechanics had your ability with these type of issues, is so hard to find a mechanic that actually knows this stuff.

[@LongTimeTTFan]

Thank you so much Mr. Scanner Danner and your friends Pete. You took great time, efforts, patience and pains in producing this very high quality instructional video. Great camera angle. Bright lighting, even in that tiny space under the dash. Super video quality. Your explanation is precise. Your demonstration is detailed. Though my Accord has no such symptoms, watching your video is educational. You are a great teacher and a very knowledgeable mechanic. People like you make KZbin a wonderful platform for valuable information. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Wow thank you!

[@toonies05]

Jl

[@Bigmaskdown]

ScannerDanner Premium hey man I have the same problem on my car it won't start the engine light comes on but it won't start the same problem I change the battery and starter

[@alexbroking9252]

+Emmanuel Dunbah alternator?

[@sergioestrada4456]

Don’t even worry about what people say, your video helps us a lot if people didn’t take the time to do this vides like you we wouldn’t be able to fix things and save money so thanks for the video

[@TrueBlueEG8]

This is so common on hondas from 88-00, and I have also repaired many of them , and never had a comeback, Excellent video, and you are right, it is a good beginners guide to diagnosing and repairing dodgy circuit boards, at least you know what to start looking for.

[@dblr616]

Mr.Danner that was a great fix. I worked on a montana last week that had a abs code for pump motor open/shorted, i pulled the module off supplied power and ground to motor and it ran so inspected board, found cracked solder joints. Re-flowed the solder and was good, these type of fixes are very rewarding, dont make a ton of money but save the customer some and make repeat customers out of them for sure.thanks again for your time spent on the videos,

[@tcpnetworks]

As a tip, you should be wicking the solder away from the pad, then lay-in new stuff. The flux will reflow everything over the contact and make it nice and solid. You'll also be able to check the pads to see if you had lifting from the board. If you had lifting, you can repair with a copper wire, tacked down between the contacts.

[@Everdreamjustplays]

This main relay is present on SO MANY Honda cars, and is a good place to look if yours wont start. Google the location of it for your year/model. Great video.

[@ScannerDanner]

Be sure to watch "Honda PGM FI Main Relay Description and Operation (Part II)" after watching this video for more on the PGM-FI Main Relay.

[@NSXTACY420]

Thank you! This really Helps!

[@crazynazer6895]

Mr. Scanner Danner, I owe you a case of beer, I was getting super frustrated cause my dam car started to randomly die while driving it, so I did some research on the net and everybody was pointing their fingers at a faulty ignition switch, so i replaced that for 60 buck, i cut the old one out so i had to use the one i had already purchased, but anyways that did not fix the problem, the car was still randomly dying, so i looked at your excellent video and sure enough, i took the relay out and it looked identical to yours in the video, so i resoldered it and now the car works great, never dies. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice, no problem at all Merry Christmas

[@joshuaredfern3655]

ScannerDanner can you inbox me on FB? My name is "Joshua Eric Redfern" I'm having an issue on a 07 civic ex. 1.8 liter

[@spikeball1171]

I was about to sell my car for scrap and then I found this video and now my car will start. Please keep doing what you do.

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome! Will do my friend.

[@sherettawilliams8697]

is that like a welding tool

[@HeyBirt]

A few soldering tips:1) Clean the tip of your iron! Wipe it on a damp sponge, tin it by melting solder over the tip and wait until the flux burns off then wipe off on the sponge again.2) Get a tin of Electronics paste flux NOT copper pipe flux. It will last you many years. Apply a very small amount of paste flux to the bad joint and heat the joint with your iron. This will help clean the crud out of the joint. 3) Now solder. On really poor connections like in the video it can help to add a good amount of new solder to the joint then use a solder sucker ($15 at radio shack) or solder wick to remove most of the solder from the joint. This gives you a nice clean joint to solder. If the joint is really bad very carefully scrape the solder mask off (clear coat type stuff that seals bottom of board and traces) on the copper trace around the joint, you just need about 1/32" bare copper exposed. This will give you fresh copper to solder to. Even the best manufacturers seem to put out boards with this type of problem because of the same design problems. It comes down to the weight of the component (relay in this case), the vibration it is exposed to and the circuit current vs. copper trace with. In this case the relays are heavy and exposed to a lot of vibration. They should not relay on the solder joint alone to hold them in place. After the initial repair, use a bit of silicone around the edge of the relay to hold it in place. The width of the traces on this PCB look OK 'except' where the relay pins come through. This leaves very little copper and you have a mechanically weak connection which is supporting a heavy relay. Like my electronics votech teacher used to say, "The first step to a good electrical connection is a good mechanical connection." There is not a lot you can do about the trace width, scraping the solder mask back and creating a larger solder joint will help.

[@SpyderBlackOfficial]

Thanks a bunch. This is helpful

[@jonmcgrath3748]

LOL, I didn't see this and just posted about the same thing but glad someone did! P.S. A sponge isn't really used or recommended anymore because it will leave pits in your tip. They sell what looks like a wire brillo pad for a few dollars that works just as well if not better. The pads aren't too small IMO and scraping back the mask is a bad idea for a beginner. Yes, this is a method that is often used but the (most likely reason) these cracked is because they used what is called wave soldering and there isn't much solder to begin with. I don't think anyone necessarily needs to buy flux, most *good* solder nowadays has a rosin core with flux already in the solder.

[@tubejim101]

Great tips! I also like to clean the area with a toothbrush and some alcohol, before starting the solder job.

[@fastm3980]

Thanks to you sir. I just fixed own car once again. I put pressure on the relay like you did and it would duplicate my stalling problem and it would also arc. I fix this 10 min. Now I hope my soldering skills are good. I have not stalled out yet🤞.

[@treydaypnw]

Great video as usual! Thanks for continuing to Bless us with your immense understanding and knowledge of Automotive diagnostics, especially on the Electrical side. You have Helped in Saving people A lot of money! We Appreciate you, and what you do for all of Us!

[@ScannerDanner]

and thank you for answering that question on the test light for a fellow youtuber in this thread. It really helps. i can't answer everyone anymore. i really appreciate that

[@madgeniawilliams337]

Hey my green light of the key in the dash is not appearing and car wont start also just had a new transponder key made and then all this happened the key people say it's the ecm the brain of the car is no good and now there is no spark??? Help of u can thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

@@madgeniawilliams337 if you have an immobilizer issue, you will absolutely have a code for that. That is where you need to being.

[@serterriablackshearwhite2860]

This video really helped my husband figure out our no start issue. Thanks for the post he'd worked all day trying to figure it out and I found this video we had the problem in the first five minutes we had the exact issue. So thanks again.

[@bestillandknow3939]

And husband will never live it down, lol

[@RobbyWorld1]

Exactly the problem with my 2004 Odyssey. My circuit board looked exactly like yours. I re-soldered it just as you did. Perfect. Zero cost. Thanks for posting this video.

[@MrRichieRides]

This video was more helpful than any of my friends or people I’ve talked to and far far FAAARRR note helpful than any video I have watched in the passed two weeks since my car stopped starting 😭 I think I know what’s wrong with my car now

[@ScannerDanner]

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to help

[@perfektpitch]

Very helpful video. Thank you. If I might make a suggestion, cleaning the connection with alcohol prior to soldering, and possibly adding some flux to the connection to help reduce/prevent oxidation, especially if you're having trouble getting the solder to flow. Most solder has a flux core but sometimes extra is needed.

[@ScannerDanner]

I've never had a comeback from this repair. To each his own if you want to replace it. I think it is a valuable lesson on how to find and fix a cracked solder joint. Next this you know you'll be fixing your tv remote control at home :-)

[@MohammedIBRAHIM-iw1xl]

this video helped me a lot , many thanks. I had hard start and long cranking on my 91 honda accord. I tried to fix it will some luck but the real difference was to replace the main relay today

[@kirbycollins3223]

People That Made Comments didn't Hear YOU'RE IN THE FIELD! Excellent Video

[@jakhan3067]

2004 accord - car is showing problematic staring issues...just replaced battery. Also, you may want to use soldering flux to allow solder to flow better...IMHO bro, thanks for kewl instructions, very much appreciated..Mr. Scanner Danner and Pete.

[@LuisRamirez-vv8dh]

Word of advice to every 98-02 accord owner (Both V6 and I4). Even if it isn't giving you problems, change it because these cars are notorious for the main relay going. I've had 8 Accords (3 sedans and 5 coupes) and 3 of them were v6, the rest were i4's and almost all of them gave me this issue. This one that I have now hasn't given me the problem yet because I bought a new one as soon as a bought the car. I was doing the "new car tune up" and remembered the nightmare that is a bad main relay so I bought it. $60 brand new but its worth it

[@Nadled]

Same issue in my honda civic 96..I need to check my relay and hopefully that is the problem...You did a great job guys..God Blessed!

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you!

[@campen777]

Great diagnoses and repair in the field . As for the punctured wire , who cares the cars fixed and that can be sorted later . I use nail varnish , never had a prob .

[@Oscarin1467]

Man thank you so much for making this video !!! I had already changed out the fuel pump and then a couple of days later same problem didn't want to start, I watched this video and same problems that I had in my car so I changed out the relay problem fixed also prior to doing this my car was shifting hard now it shifts normal .

[@ScannerDanner]

+carin1467 awesome

[@locoxfiat]

you are a true technician/mechanic,good video,dont worry about pinched wire.thanks for posting it.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks man

[@mh2topspot]

thanks for the vid. my mom got a 02 accord thats been giving her some trouble starting up the last couple weeks. she brought it to the local auto shop and they couldnt find anything wrong. your vid looks just like what might be the problem with her car starting so gonna have to try this out.

[@LoneWolfZ]

Just fixed this on my 98 accord. Engine would die and not restart. Lost power to the computer, immobilzer, shifter interlock (couldn't even get it out of park to push the car), and others. After it happening in a drive-thru with a bunch of pissed off people, I decided it needed fixed. I went ahead and resoldered all the relay pins with good old fashioned lead solder, and now the car is good for another 200,000 miles.

[@fabulacs]

I cannot say enough how helpful this video is.

[@ekezienwankpa299]

Nice video. Had a similar issue with my Honda Accord 1996 Model. From this video, I have no doubt that the fault is from the relay cos the car won't start and I was not seeing tye key symbol on the dashboard.

[@spelunkerd]

I've been looking for this video for years. Looking forward to part II. THANKS!

[@LeMecanoDuDimanche]

Hi, my Accord did not start this morning. I think I'll check that "famous" main relay ! thanks for your video

[@gen70100]

This is called having SKILLS!!!!! Exellent job!!!

[@jonburgmann]

wipe your soldering iron with a damp spounge when soldering iron is hot to clean off the the tip then tin the tip with some new solder and clean the solder pad by scraping it clean with a art knife

[@albertestrada3953]

Bro, what awesome info on the Honda Pgm relay ! very good video, and great shots of everything you did... Thanks !

[@debiturner6512]

hey paul. its debi with the honda main relay issue. get this, my dads mechanic totally disregarded my suggestion, which was the $58 main relay plus whatever labor, instead, he told my dad it was the crank sensor, which was a $900 repair. my dad said he'd pay, so hey....then when i had 2 go back 2 shop because there was this VERY loud noise comming from under the car after i parked, i videoed it, drove straight back 2 shop and of course it wasnt making noise. i left came home, parked, and again the noise. i made the 2nd video and during the 15mins of both times noticing noise, i never turned car off. he looked at video and said he had no idea, but.....to my point, he said i dont know if you noticed, but i REPLACED the main relay but didn't charge you for it, so when i got home i looked at receipt, oh he charged me for the part, but not for labor. i was so angry to say the least because no id the intermittent non start is fixed, we wont know n if it was the $58 part OR the crank sensor at $900. he didnt even call me to tell me b4 doing so either. i just think we could of gone with the relay 1st, but the fact he blew me off about that in the beginning, then does it after the crank sensor diagnosis, really makes it hard to trust him. so, 2 the question i wanted 2 ask you is, so you have a video on how 2 adjust the hand brake. i viewed 2 on youtube, but were not specific to my yr/model. 1 seemed easy enough by taking center console off and do adj. but the other was for a civic but that guy had car in jack and made adj determination by how much the rear wheeles turned, which is way beyond my ability. anyways, just wanted your input about it as far as console or if in fact it needed to be on jack for adj. again, its an 01 accord. thanks for any advice. debi t.

[@DaveSender66]

Good work Paul! Very much appreciate you making these videos! You spread good vibes in the universe! We are blessed to have the YT Danner Brothers !

[@NSXTACY420]

Brilliant work Scanner Danner! As always you know Honda. Those pesky Pgmfi relays... i am having a nightmare right now with my prelude's main relays... got sent a doa main relay and now i am just frustrated, Not helping that i am tuning it myself with chrome pro either. This part 2 is gonna really help me! :) Thank You!

[@tonyp.autorepair994]

Nice video..... , look back a couple of years, You was young. 😃😃👍🙆‍♂️

[@TheRealFrankWizza]

mine also had both of those cracks. I never had a no start problem until the car stalled on me while making a turn. After that it would not start back up. I already knew what was wrong. It was awesome.

[@xtrongarage9666]

Top video buddy enjoyed watching that good repair on that relay too. Tricky problem to diagnose if you don't know what you're looking for. It's videos like this they can really help us Honda guys now.

[@LongTimeTTFan]

Thank you very much for taking the time and the trouble producing this video. It is really difficult to shoot the video in the little space down there. Very informative. Very detailed explanation. Very clear steps. Really appreciate your great efforts.

[@annabellebeckwith9283]

Excellent instruction. You are a wonderful teacher! Thank you so very much for this video -- not that I'm going to head out to buy some automotive tools and tackle the problem myself. But at least I feel as though I've got the basics down when I talk to the mechanic who's diagnosing the problem with my '99 Accord, i.e. stalling whenever, wherever but after a "rest period," starting up again without incident. Within a matter of a week or so the problem has occurred more frequently: Car would start, run for a minute, then stall. A short wait and it would start, with almost no "run time" afterward. Maybe a minute at the most. I was terrified the car would stall in the left turn lane or, worse, that it would simply "die" with no warning at all on a busy highway. Didn't want to even take another chance after that, so I had to have it towed to a repair shop. Waiting to hear the bad news...

[@xijianqi857]

+Caryss Behan Hi, what's the final reason for your car. My car now is encountering the same problems. I have exchanged the fuel pump in firestone, but it doesn't work.

[@Ottonic6]

I just replaced mine with an aftermarket relay. I have a 2000 Accord EX coupe 2.3. We'll see how long it lasts. I compared the two and the OEM is definitely better quality all the way around. It took me a little time to get it out (only one bolt) just in a hard to reach place (the bolt, not the relay itself) It also took some work getting the old one off the bracket after I got it out. It looks like you should be able to just un-clip it from the bracket without unbolting and removing it from the car, but it had been in there for 17 yrs, and no way I was getting it off that bracket without removing the whole thing... I am re-flowing all the soldering joints on the OEM so I have it for backup in case (or when) the new one fails. But since I replaced it, the car starts right up... So far, so good... I also watched your lesson on how the circuitry works. Great stuff. I learned a lot. Thanks Paul...

[@solesearched]

Fantastic! It took a while to perfect my own soldering technique so dont feel bad. A quality soldering iron and tip make all the difference :)

[@ScannerDanner]

I mentioned the issue with energizing the injector. It all depends on the amount of current your test light draws. Initially I though I heard the injector click, then not, so in this case I was okay. It is something to consider and in most applications a test light that draws less than 200ma like mine is ok to use connected to ground. Just be careful and pay attention to what your doing.

[@mrgrump2534]

Why did you move the test light from the ground source to the positive battery? I would think that would cause a short or an arc! Clearly I’m not an electrician so before I go testing my fuel pump for power I was curious as to where you grounded your test light in the trunk and to make sure it was ground and not positive! Also, y can’t I just use my multimeter to test for power/volts? and if so I assume to put the positive Leed on the black and yellow wire where you put your test light but where do I put my black Lead if I’m using my multimeter? Would it be that the black multimeter lead would connect to the ground point wherever your actual test light was or is it different? Thank you for your help. I just don’t want to hurt my car so if I have to I’ll just buy that test light thingy that you had in the video

[@ScannerDanner]

@@mrgrump2534 to prevent the injector from energizing as some test lights (even the one I am using) will provide enough current flow to energize the injector and I didn't want to flood that cylinder with fuel. Since you asked your question under my injector statement. I am assuming that is what you are talking about. However, you've clearly gone past this part now as you are mentioning the trunk and I'm not testing the injectors back there 🙂 A time frame of where each question is coming from would really help me to help you. This was filmed a long time ago. Thanks!

[@kslay13]

hay that was a good job i been haveing same problem with my 94 integra for couple yrs i re sodered and works great!!! good job man

[@STAKBUNDLES]

Great video, I believe this is the issue currently with my accord, I have replaced the gas pump and the distributor cup because it was cracked smh

[@888cromartie]

Some tips for better soldering... keep your iron tip tinned so it doesn't get corroded to help with better heat transfer. Try to remove old solder with a braid or sucker. Use some flux to make nice wetted joints.

[@skillz1855]

The best way is to look for the check engine to stay on while cranking, it should go out while starting if it stays on the Relay is kicking out

[@room101935]

I kept hearing myself saying that wedding rings going to shot out the pins if your not careful. nice find, alway's more difficult when your in the field though.

[@user-es5dn4bo1v]

Thanks for your videos and I have a problem. My D4 doesn’t flash stay on all the time and sometimes it turned off and when I press gas go from low light to highlight how much I press Gas

[@malisa696]

great video mister Paul. I hear that some people (not me) put that piece of electronic in a cooker and heat in that way to melt all the joins...seems so ridiculous... :D

[@Borked1000]

Just a quick comment regarding having trouble resoldering that bad join, a lot of the problem is the old dry solder, not a bad idea to throw a cheap $5 solder sucker in the tool box, suck out the old stuff and you'll find the fresh solder with its flux will make for a tidier and stronger join. Also, that track was quite decent size, for those who don't solder much, you'll note he he was heating the pad and pin at the same time and you need the heat in the pad for the solder to stick well.

[@RFmaster89]

A brief comment - Rosin solder flux and Isopropyl alcohol. Clean soldering iron tip is mandatory. Solder flux, when hot, will flow easily removing unwanted oxides quickly, and it helps to remove foreign particles from the surface of the metal being soldered. This why you had to add solder ( it has some flux ) to the center pin. Alcohol is used to clean PCBA from excess flux and dirt.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks for the tips!

[@p0k7lm]

excellent help ! you have excellent hands on mechanical-electro skills ! big help i think this will solve my mothers car issue , i will try to fix 🔩🔧🚙 thanks again !!!😃👍🔨

[@rudycastellon6360]

Thank you guys you fixed my problem on a 99 Civic Dx Hatchback

[@ScannerDanner]

+Rudy Castellon awesome

[@martomcuser]

Yup; and make the connection stronger so it doesn't crack as easily in the future. Flux is always needed for quality soldering.

[@jonmcgrath3748]

Great video on how to quickly troubleshoot your Honda (or any car for that matter)! Any DIY'er should buy a service manual or at least look up test procedures and specs though first... some of these components can easily get damaged by putting direct power to them, you usually test the resistance, inductance, etc of different parts like injectors or sensors! The newer the car, the more sensitive the electronics usually are too. I'm not trying to knock your work, this was extremely helpful so I hope you don't take offense... BUT anytime you're reworking a solder joint (or soldering a new joint), you MUST set the correct temperature, clean your tip(!) and "tin" the tip first! (add a bit of solder to the tip). Constantly clean and tin the tip and your iron / tip will last a lot longer and give you much better joints! You will have a MUCH easier time getting the solder flowing and a lot better solder joint. It's hard to tell from your video, but it looks like that first joint is or was a "cold solder joint". Anyone attempting this absolutely MUST use electrical solder with a rosin core. Plumbing solder usually uses an acid based flux that will destroy your PCB. Too much heat will also cause the pad to lift off the board and then you're looking at buying a new one! Too many details to explain here, but there are plenty of great videos on how to correctly solder. Anyway, thanks for the video. Thumbs up, and hope the soldering tips help someone!

[@ScannerDanner]

lol, I know my soldering sucked in this video

[@jonmcgrath3748]

@@ScannerDanner No worries, hard to do this kind of work in the field. There's a surprising amount of copper and heat necessary once I got into it!

[@dukenukem1086]

it was good on your second try u just made it worst continuing to pick on it!! nice and good informative video thank u.

[@MichaelSabo]

Excellent video man

[@richardshavers1238]

thanks a lot Bro you've been helping me out a whole lot to troubleshoot a lot of stuff so I've been watching your videos studying and see what could be the possible problem with this car I'll come to realize that this car has a lot of issues with the fuel pump relay with Mission switch and sometimes still at United so I'm trying to figure out what's the best way and how to solve the problem but keep doing what you doing bro you're very helpful

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you! hope to talk over on the forum as well

[@richardshavers1238]

Yes sir

[@alstevens44]

I had that problem too on my Honda 1991 prelude, what I did was solder the crack connection just guessing , now it's fine

[@zonetwelve]

what an informative video. just got my 99 accord, hope to keep it for a long time. but it seems like something might be wrong and its 105 degrees during the day and 60 at night where i live and the previous owner kept it garaged its whole life, but i dont. will check this first if it fails

[@TiHKaL42]

Great video. Excellent diagnostic procedure. Clean your iron and use some no-clean flux, or it could happen again quite soon. Holding the iron on the pins for that long can damage the relay or lift the pads from the PCB. No offence, but that soldering is a mess. Also most flux can be corrosive if not cleaned off. It will eventually eat through the copper tracks and destroy the board. Some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush works well for me.

[@notRCrosleyHacked]

Greatly appreciated you sharing the details repair on the relay. Thanks

[@sivucit]

Hi, I am Glad to be the first one commenting it.. Great video, Paul.. you have showed me two way to test injector control. In the second method where u connected the test light to ground, you are energizing the injector, I hope that is ok, because all the current that test light provides is few milliamps. is my understanding right.

[@ScannerDanner]

oh, and most injectors carry around 1 amp of current so the test light is well below the point of being able to ground the injector enough to energize it. Again though, you need to know what your test light draws before doing this. We don't want to hydro-lock the cylinder. An LED test light would be ideal for this application.

[@ElGallegoT]

What an excellent video. Well explained. Thank so much 👍🏿

[@randyvera8563]

Besides the sauderring great job just recently had the same issue had it checked out but b4 than I seen your video so it coincided with the mechanic thamks

[@ScannerDanner]

ok. check this out. a typical control side relay coil is around 80ohms. 12v thru 80ohms = 150ma. The series resistor was 40 ohms. So now we have a 120ohm circuit drawing 100ma. we are all on the same page as to what it does. it just doesn't make sense to save 50ma here when we have ten other relays on the car without this resistor. i used even rounded numbers for easy math. system voltage is not always twelve and i could be wrong on the specific ohm numbers here.

[@rafaelchuqui6553]

Good job.....my friend! And clear explanation everything you did it.....it was clear to watch..... thanks for the video's and good explanation! From Chicago,il..... thumbs up!

[@arthurcornerworkshop9566]

Videos that really helped me, thanks bro..

[@arthurcornerworkshop9566]

May I have your email address or your number brother?

[@arthurcornerworkshop9566]

May I have your email address or your number brother?

[@STEVESMITH-df5qf]

Awesome fault finding, love watching your videos!! I have learned lots from your case studies, thank you!! You are one very talented guy!!

[@chrisoanderson]

Remember to use a Flux based electronic solder. Allow the iron to get hot, then the connection, then flow the solder onto the connection. Don't melt the solder onto the iron.

[@lildewat5]

Really helpful and informative video. Having similar issues with my 96 civic... Going to check it out now...

[@ceedeegutierrez]

Who are all the these haters? I only see positive comment but I guess they're out there somewhere. Great vid once again Mr Danner. Hope part 2 comes soon :-)

[@krismichalsky]

For those who don't like poking a wire to get a reading off of it, that's how you do it. Otherwise, how the hell else would you test for conductivity?

[@nestorfresno1]

great video !!! paul dont miss any of your videos... keep it up bro...thanks it is very common for hondas to do this ,but you explain everything really good...

[@xijianqi857]

Thanks very much for your video. I think I meet the same problem. Four days ago, my honda accord cannot start, I towed it to the firestone, they told me the fuel pump was bad, and asked me to exchange this pump. After replaced, the starting problem seems to be solved. But today, when I pick my car from firestone, it stalled on the road. It's very horrible. my issue is very like this. I hope this is the main point for my issue.

[@martomcuser]

It will work but is very likely to crack again since no fresh solder is being added. You also risk damaging the board and the components soldered to it.

[@Pengy39]

You gotta tin your tip (clean it at a wire wheel then cover it with solder) and use flux core solder to help the solder stick some more!

[@lickymywicky6289]

Thanks so much, i bought a new pgm- fi for my 91 integra runs like new.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Ryan Jones sweet

[@ScannerDanner]

yep, not a surprise with a Honda is it?

[@upallnight888]

You can get the solder to flow better if you use flux and clean the joint before soldering.

[@user-cm9uh6sj7n]

HIGH Quality Content

[@seshachary5580]

VERY EDUCATIVE.thank you regards

[@reginahimich1435]

Thanks danner ur class tought me alot hope ur doin well

[@dukenukem1086]

another thing is to be very careful when excessive soldering like this example because it may damage the electronic device!