How to Install 3D Printer Heated Bed Upgrade Using Fulament Fula-Bed!

[@jasoncostanzo2574]

On the heater plate. Always pull an inch or so of the paper down, set the front edge then peel and set.

[@TheEdgeofTech]

Normally I would do that with my magnetic plates etc, it's a little bit harder with this one because of the holes for the screws but I probably should have tried to do it like that lol

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Nice and thorough. Good job.

[@AndrewSink]

Awesome video, Jim! That thing looks like a beast!

[@Killa_Prints]

Great review Jim. What do you think about installing the heater before you thread the screw through? That would help make heater alignment easier.

[@gilbertpatrucco5196]

This is exactly what I thought when I saw how he installed it.

[@danieltalavera9847]

Thats some serious power. Maybe now I can print nylon

[@dugy40]

Put the bolts in last. That way you can apply the mat like a phone screen. Aligning one edge and slowly working your way across. I’d make a good line on the side you start with when you mark it. Simple.

[@prince3121]

Great video Jim and very nice heated bed replacement for the Artillery.

[@danieldoncovio46]

Aply the heated bed prior to installing the screws, this way you not fight the height of the screws, once the heater bed is in place, then install the screws

[@deankq4adj125]

Excellent review, I may consider this new bed after I do more research. Problem with my current bed is there are cool areas and adhesion lacks on longer prints. Thanks for doing this for the Sidewinder x1.

[@RobertDeanWare]

Does the cost of the bed ($99.99 for the Sidewinder X1 Fula-bed pre-order) include the heater? There is an option for a "Fulament Heater Upgrade," and I'm wondering if that means you have to buy that the heater in addition to the bed itself.

[@Fulament]

Great video Jim! Glad to see you like it :)

[@scotttovey]

You could use 4 installation cones for that heater pad. The broad side of the cone needs to be the same size as the ID of the hole that goes around the screw. The cones should screw onto the screws with the broad side next to the plate so that as the heater pad slides down the cone, it automatically centers onto the plate.

[@Fulament]

@@scotttovey Thanks for the feedback, we'll give this a try! The plan was to actually switch our instructions to have the heater installed before the screws. This way you can lay down the corners slowly :)

[@scotttovey]

@@Fulament You're welcome. But even that will be difficult to get exact. The problem is the high tack of the adhesive. It's the primary reason that woodworkers, when laminating veneers, use over sized veneers and then trim them down with the router. Something like this can't be trimmed down. Another thing you might want to do is take four small pieces of double sided tape, and tape a couple of wood slats to the non adhesive side of the heat pad. That will keep the heat pad flat as you lower it down around the cones. Using the two wooden slats may eliminate the need for the cones, but if you want to insure the pad is centered precisely, then you need to use the cones as an aid.

[@MageLeaderInc]

If you wanted to be able to print with nylon and other high temp filaments, what bed heater do you suggest getting to reach higher temps?

[@woodwaker1]

Jim, good review, but you need some new Marks.

[@briantaylor4559]

How long does it take to heat up that big 5mm plate? I know the quick heating bed was one of the big points for the Sidewinder X1 and i'm curious if the big metal plate is going to take longer to heat up, or does the new heater ends up making up for that?

[@kerpen24894]

you should have tried useing 1/4" dowels. We use them all the time in woodworking for contact cemet for venere and laminate.

[@tylerw3st]

Take my money!

[@smite0568]

Does this work the same for the X2, Because my bed is now having issues with adhesion. I am considering ordering this. But on the Fulment website it just states that it may fit.

[@TheEdgeofTech]

I am not 100% sure, but you could reach out to them and ask. They are good to work with.

[@DixonSwe]

That plate looks anodized, you should grind that of around the grounding screw since anodizing makes aluminium a really bad conductor thus defeating the grounding.

[@Fulament]

The grounding port is being plugged during production, to prevent the anodization from acting as an insulator :)

[@angelcarlos9859]

Dam I need some for my ender 3 and pro the abl just can’t help no more

[@stephanvanwijck4890]

Stop touching that bed !!! 😂😂

[@JnoAY1]

Need one for the x2!

[@GreenAppelPie]

Ok Jim, Mr. edge of technology, what’s the easiest way to get Marlin firmware with linear advance into my Ender 3 v2?

[@urufushinjiro]

I sure wish they had more data on their website about the Ender 3 version, there's no info on there about the heater....

[@Fulament]

Thanks for the feedback. We'll update the website to be more clear. As of now, the Ender 3 uses the stock heater, with an upgraded heater currently in development!

[@MageLeaderInc]

@@Fulament how long before you have the upgraded heater for the ender 3?

[@xander7462]

No insulation?

[@TommiHonkonen]

0.15 flatness isnt that flat. Tho my bed is low -0.25 high 0.5. Might be time to level it. Just pull from the wires, it wont hurt the wire. If it does then it was bad from the start.

[@ThomasYates916]

$279.00 US! Not in the cards for me.

[@odeball22]

Just got a quarter inch 12x12 peice of milled aluminum, to replace the peice of shit ender max 3 bed

[@IronMan-yg4qw]

wtf? clickbait!! you didnt mention in the title that this is only for the artillary!

[@TheEdgeofTech]

It's not. It's for multiple printers! And more to come!