How To Install a Barb & Olive in a Shimano hydraulic hose line.

How To Install a Barb & Olive in a Shimano hydraulic hose line.
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[@therewolf184]

FYI - when using a crowsfoot with a torque wrench, it needs to be in a very specific position (at a 90 degree angle to the body of the wrench), otherwise you'll actually be applying either too much or not enough torque, depending on the position. This video explains it in more detail: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHPNo2xje6mKj9k You can use it positioned straight out from the end of the wrench if space is a constraint - but you then need to do some measurement and math and adjust your torque value accordingly. In this case I realise the difference is (probably) negligible, but I figure when working on something as safety-critical as brakes, it pays to get things as accurate as possible!

[@BikeTeacher]

I agree with everything said. Proceeding with caution while working and just as importantly but not always possible from the rider, paying close attention on test rides. Test extensively off the bike by squeezing the brake lever as hard a s possible and look for leaks. Wear safety glasses and anticipate the hose popping off the lever.

[@saintless]

Probably negligible, yes. But exactly the sort of thing that needs to be pointed out on a channel like this where many are first learning basic mechanic skills. Came here to say the same but you beat me to it!

[@jamesmitchell5370]

Thanks - I'll add a like and follow for this. I made the blocks by sawing a groove in 2 pieces of wood and using a clamp to hold it on place. Crude, but it worked. I was stressed because this job has seen my local shop order the wrong parts for me no less than 3 times.

[@BikeTeacher]

That's great ingenuity. It's fun, unless you gone through some stress. Thanks for watching. Arthur

[@HughDWallace]

Thank you! Just doing this job for the first time. Nearly went & bought an expensive Park tool but saw this video first & realised i had the yellow plastic blocks already! 😁👍

[@BikeTeacher]

Oh great! Glad I could help. ⚙️

[@supergreg72]

Thank you, I like to check the best practice before messing with stuff I rarely do like installing olives.

[@BikeTeacher]

Good idea. I hope it was helpful.

[@CasperRc81]

Snap on says your crows foot should be 90 degrees open end of the torque wrench handle. Thx you for the video

[@BikeTeacher]

Thank you too.

[@Murgoh]

Yes, otherwise the torque will not be correct.

[@michaelsamudra8287]

nice info tx

[@BikeTeacher]

Your welcome Eric! ⚙️🏁

[@prosc10driver]

So how do you get the new olive to crush? I can’t even get the bolt to start tightening

[@enduroman2834]

You saved me the day, thx!

[@davidmundowyahoo7839]

I need to fit a new front calliper and swap cables around. The more I watch these videos the more I think I’ll leave it to my LBS!

[@BikeTeacher]

Oh, bummer? or good! Either way I hope the video was helpful. Thats a really old one. lol

[@roncooke2188]

I would treat myself to a bench vice great video interesting thank you

[@seanmccuen6970]

I can't believe the 'bike teacher' didn't correctly orientate the crowfoot wrench with the torque wrench beam. 90deg. ftw.

[@sheeplord4976]

Thanks for explaining why my brake hose kept popping out. I just need to tighten harder.

[@BikeTeacher]

You are welcome!

[@runfayalife]

what happens if you over torque?

[@BikeTeacher]

It may leak, worse case.

[@AlexKost-tq6bj]

On some XT brakes I've installed the copper olive was greased with some clear grease when I took it out of the packaging. Any ideas/thoughts on this? Often use olives from a small parts box, and those aren't greased, so curious if I should be doing that! My guess is something like silicone grease (i.e. dielectric grease) would be safe on rubber, inert so won't react with mineral oil, etc.

[@BikeTeacher]

To my knowledge the grease may be specific to help form a seal. I have never used the grease and have experienced no problems regarding leaks.

[@Noob-dl1fb]

Is it a problem if I put my barb in first?

[@dallasj3589]

Great video. Thanks

[@BikeTeacher]

Thanks You DJ!

[@chestercopperpot3793]

Trying to install a front Deore brake now and man, that barb is a *cow* to get in. Shimano don't include the yellow pinch block anymore. It's still out about 3mm and it's fighting me every mm. Edit: managed to get it. Holding the hose further away from the barb when hammering helped get it home.

[@BikeTeacher]

Use a pick or something pointy to shove in the hole to over size it. Use pressure. Don’t poke yourself.

[@chestercopperpot3793]

@@BikeTeacher Thanks, I managed to drive it in. Your point about holding the hose further down helped - I think was holding the pliers too close to the barb.

[@munkeylovin22]

Same problem, very difficult if they don’t include the yellow block

[@BikeTeacher]

Nice. Park tool has a plied that is needle nose that also has a crimp for end caps as well as two openings for housings. The hydraulic line should fit in there without crushing or.

[@Alex-sc9qc]

I noticed the bolt that screws into the caliper that holds the housing in place wasn't straight. So I unscrewed it and tried to put it in straight but the threads in the caliper are all cross threaded. I didnt know about olives and needles before taking this out. Then learnt the olives are one use only and need to be crushed into place. Me, not knowing what im doing tried to screw the bolt in straight and failed many times. So screwed it in how it was, then bled the brakes and everything was fine. Until the next day. Oil all over the caliper coming from the housing bolt that fastens into the caliper. I'm wondering is it because o re used the olive? Does it matter the bolt isn't going in perfectly straight as long as its secured/crushed the olive in place? It wasn't leaking before I messed around with it which makes me think i could get away with just replacing the olive and thread ? Any advice would be much appreciated

[@BikeTeacher]

Hi, did you resolve this? Yes, new olives to be be used for every fresh installation. If the nut screws in crooked the threads are most likely compromised. It's very possible the threads on the lever are stripped due to a softer aluminum Where as the nut a a stronger metal like steel.

[@jonathangoedefroot5902]

What if there is still oil leaking? What does it mean?

[@BikeTeacher]

It could mean the hose my be cut at an angle and not flat across. Or the tightening bolt is not at 6-7 nm. Or the olive may not be sitting fully inside and crushed incorrectly. When tightening the bolt, you want the hydraulic line to be fully inserted and keep firm pressure inward as you are tightening.

[@johnspurlin408]

I am installing a new brake lever. The hose already has a barb and olive installed. When I swap out break levers, is the current barb and olive in the hose sufficient, or is it necessary to use a new barb and olive?

[@saintless]

As I understand it (from installing hydraulic tubing to gauges in an industrial space), what you are calling a ferrule would be a compression nut, part of a compression fitting. The part that everyone in the bike world is calling "the olive" is the actual "ferrule" in a general sense and is also part of the compression fitting.

[@BikeTeacher]

I get it. That makes sense. I it may make more sense to call them end caps. Not to be confused with the crimps for the end of cables.

[@doctormoonbass9616]

Tried fitting these twice. Both times the fitting failed after a couple of rides. Both occasions the olive is crimped around the end of the hose - no idea how/why. Nightmare to retrieve insert and I have no idea which insert/olive kit will fit the line/lever, so binning the shimanos and going back to my 20 year old hope mini’s - easy to fit, service and bleed. Might indulge in a ceremonial lump mallet demolition of the shimano parts.

[@BikeTeacher]

Hmm. Were you getting a leak?Did the hose pop out? I like to use the crows foot tool and torque to 7 nm. Could be an olive model mating problem, although pretty rare if you are using Shimano with shimano parts.

[@doctormoonbass9616]

Bike Teacher Well, after mini tantrum out of my system ;) I tried one more time (with new insert & olive) and tightened up reeaal tight by feel - there’s about 3mm of the thread left showing - and so far... it’s fine. Now to figure out how to service my 2001 x-vert forks...

[@oliverblack5477]

Thanks!

[@richardbryanesq]

Are you certain the olive is symmetrical? It's hard to tell; I think it's just very slightly asymmetrical. Not sure.

[@laurenbruges8784]

It’s asymmetrical! Slightly narrower on one side

[@Levi-xd2cj]

What to do when youre olive gets stuck and you dont have a spare one how do you get it off the hose?

[@rifu2301]

Cut and sacrifice some hose, install new barb and olive?

[@DMW2000]

Thanks!

[@BikeTeacher]

You are welcome Dave!

[@jonthornton8714]

Should the crows foot be at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench handle?

[@BikeTeacher]

Yes, from what I’m told, that’s what park tool says for their pedal crows foot wrench as well. But honestly I have done this many times and have not had any negative outcomes, long or short term. And that’s with not adhering to that guideline 100%.

[@BikeTeacher]

Because it is in awkward area. Hope this helps.

[@ericheinrich9015]

Yes. Proper professional mechanical use of the tool is that way. Otherwise the torque reading will be off. You could always math out the angles to figure it out, but if you're doing that, you're probably not using the tool wrong in the first place.

[@LeMADFacteur]

Cool, thanks for the video. I have a doubt about my install - firstly i didn't insert the barb all the way (left like 1mm) the blocks just didn't grip the hose and it slipped through. Does this will make a problem? The second thing - on the rear brake i managed to install barb flush, but when i tightened the bolt, some oil just spilled out - did i over tightened it? Its not leaking right now! What do you think?

[@deathorb]

I think that you will not understand this response from your query due to the amount of time elapsed since you commented.....But LOL I made you look!

[@artemijgraur6869]

@biketeacher does it matter what olive i use?

[@BikeTeacher]

I have used random olives for Shimano and had no issues. So far. The barb can be specific. But I have experimented and living to tell the tale.

[@mrwhiteshorts]

Good Afternoon Sir, Ive a leaky BR-R785 caliper, and have a BR-RS785 caliper to replace it. Question is, can i remove the banjo from the BH59 hose and make a new connection for the new caliper which uses the other type of fitment? Thanks!

[@BikeTeacher]

I the proper replacement parts are available I don't see why not. Although I can't say I am that familiar to offer solid advice.

[@julianantipatia4576]

Can I still use the olive even if the hose pushes out?

[@BikeTeacher]

As long as the olive did not get deformed.

[@mcdonnelaldaba9160]

Do i have to cut the tip of the hose where the old barb and olive was or could i just pull it out so i wont cut the hose short

[@BikeTeacher]

It’s best to replace all the old hardware, yes cut the minimum end of the hose.

[@TTalksVA]

what's that round thing called on the back of the hose ?

[@BikeTeacher]

The olive? Its barrel shaped.

[@aaron___6014]

Can you remove the barb with cutting the hose?

[@BikeTeacher]

Yes. I cut the minimum hose to remove the old barb.

[@inferno493]

Do you have to replace the "olive" crush washer if you disconnect the lines?

[@BikeTeacher]

Yes, always replace the barb and olive. It is designed to get crushed or deformed. That’s what creates the seal. The seal needs to be reformed every time.

[@inferno493]

Great, Thanks!

[@gervaciosantos8331]

I should have read/watched this before cutting my XT 8100 brake hose. I tried to remove the barb and olive out but its tightly shut and wont bulge sighhhh. Have to go to the LBS to pick up a new set

[@r.taylorgarlock560]

I'm not quite so sure about the torque wrench / crowfoot wrench setup.

[@BikeTeacher]

I found this online, I also had a car mechanic take my class and gave a similar answer. Other than that I can't really find an in-depth explanation. "The short answer is no, extensions do not affect torque wrench accuracy. That is if they're used properly, and you're using your torque wrench correctly."

[@martyndaniel6055]

You need to change the torque setting if you’re using a crows foot, as you’re effectively changing the length of the pivot. www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

[@tjb8841]

@@martyndaniel6055 or put the crows foot perpendicular to the wrench

[@martyndaniel6055]

@@tjb8841 Would that work correctly?

[@beathermit3876]

Love the way all the useful parts are out of focus -- great

[@BikeTeacher]

My bad, I will work on that.

[@peterjv8748]

Supposed to grease the olive and threads.

[@BikeTeacher]

I see they offer a cream. I need to try some. So far no issues that I’m aware of. Thanks

[@peterjv8748]

@@BikeTeacher they say any old grease is fine. I never had issues w/o grease either but I took a seminar last year and learned that. Happy wrenching!

[@ericheinrich9015]

Why are you using vise grips on blocks that are designed to be used in a bench vise? you're not getting full-length clamping pressure and that's why the hose is sliding. Generally helpful info and description, but zooming in closer so you can actually see what the presenter is doing would be much more helpful. BTW the proper way to use a torque wrench with a crow's foot is at 90 degrees. (Insert Geico quote)

[@BikeTeacher]

Great comment and true information.

[@mikewalker8772]

Hi what happens if you over tightened the bolt? Can it damage anything internally? Or is the right the better?

[@BikeTeacher]

It’s possible to overnighted. Be careful. I believe the olive would be crushed to the point of failure. Thanks

[@michaelsturges7385]

Can you slow down next time, we're trying to learn.

[@BikeTeacher]

Yes, thanks for the feedback.