How To Install a HeliCoil

[@stephenmorrish]

The first time I ever came across Helicoil was at age 16 when the sparkplug stripped out of the head on my 50cc Yamaha FS1E. I got a kit and followed the instructions and got my little bike back on the road. My dad was impressed I had found a solution to the problem and got on a fixed it by myself.

[@Abom79]

Awesome!

[@Zack-lq9tb]

That's self sufficiency that's gold

[@tomahoks]

Great story.

[@s19pajua13]

I just broke a valve cover bolt off in my head and I couldn’t extract it. I hope they sell small ones to save my ass

[@martinkurien8813]

One thing that is cool that not a lot of people know is that you can get distorted thread heicoils to prevent fasteners from backing out. They have a thread or two that is almost square shaped, locking your screw. They are used frequently in parts going into space where a threadlocker won’t work due to off-gasing. I thought that was super cool!

[@notsofresh8563]

I bet they are not cheap.. They make exhaust manifold nuts that are the same way, single use only. Exhaust manifolds are notoriously bad for losing fasteners due to the heat destroying thread lockers and taking the temper out of spring based retention systems, as well as heat cycle dimensional changes stretching studs. These type of distorted thread nuts are one of the better ways to keep stuff in place.

[@donziperk]

Martin Kurien That is very interesting I have never seen those. Does heli coil make them.

[@donovanlucibello379]

Something very cool about watching a real machinist work, I could sit here for hours observing, taking notes, and learning. Subscribed

[@dleland71]

In the 'old' days I've used many HeliCoils to repair stripped out spark plug threads on motorcycles, snowmobiles & various other aluminum engine heads. Thanks for the video, as always, you are a great presenter.

[@AudioAtmos]

I can’t believe I’m 57 and have done a good bit of DIY repair and only now becoming aware of these little lifesavers. This could have made life so much easier many times. I have a 2006 Honda Goldwing which seems to love to strip threads on the hundreds of body connection points. The “Dodge” setup would be a life saver for the many metal screw into plastic threads. Thanks for the demo!

[@johnnyholland8765]

I have installed literally thousands of those things mostly 8-32 , 10-32 , qnd 4-40 sizes in the servo valve bodies we build at work. We use primarily Heli Coil brand. We installed so many we converted a broke arm tapping station to install them. The tangs are a real pain in the 4-40 inserts to get out. We use tang "poppers" air and magnetic small diameter tools to remove them.

[@kylemichael2175]

I think these how-to videos are going to be a great addition to your channel Adam. Viewers definitely learn a lot watching your videos, but this takes it to the next level. Very good stuff sir.

[@kejay74]

Hi Adam, One thing that I picked up on with Heli-Coil kits in aluminum...For maximum longevity of the inserts, install with Loctite 262 and then grease the bolts and inside the hole with black Moly grease (to keep the Loctite from grabbing the first bolt in). It also helps to not have totally blind holes, in effect giving a 'vent' so the bolts do not generate compression of air on install, or, vacuum on removal. Great videos! Kudos to you for making the leap of faith! Best regards & Luck. Ken

[@craiggoldstein2461]

So refreshing to watch and learn from someone who really knows what they are doing.....NICE JOB!

[@RyanDoesAll]

Im glad that you have time to make these short informative videos now Adam. You will have a much bigger chance of expanding your amount of viewers. When they come over to your shop to learn how to install a heli-coil and not only learn how to but see whats going on in the background they might just check out some machining videos that they would not normally watch. I think it will be great for the growth of the channel. Well done. Ryan

[@jrichker]

This is for those of you who have used Heli-coils and then had problems breaking off the tang once you had finished inserting the Heli -coil. Using a punch to break the tang often results in dislocating the last few turns of the Heli-coil. That makes the Heil-coil useless; leaving the tang in place results in the same problem. If the bolt bottoms out on the tang and you continue to turn it, then it pushes the last few turns of the Heli-coil out of place. For all practical purposes, this makes the Heli-coil useless. So, dealing with the tang is a must do thing and not an option. The OEM tang breakoff tools are a ridiculously expensive solution to the dilemma. I spent less than $2 to replace a tool that cost much more and works perfectly every time that I have used it. For those of us who don't have a money tree in their backyard, I have a solution. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap Phillips (or flat blade) screwdriver whose shaft OD is a nice slip fit in the Heli-coil you will be using. For 5/16” Heil-coils, that’s about 1/4” diameter. Take the screwdriver and cut the screwdriver tip off of it using a cutoff grinder with a thin wheel abrasive disk. Use the same disk and center it up as best you can on the now bare screwdriver shaft. Then cut a slot in the screwdriver shaft about 5/16” to 3/8” deep. Now that you have your finished tool, simply stick it in the driven Heli-coil and gently turn it until it seats on the tang. Now it is muscle time: turn the homemade extraction tool counterclockwise. The tang will break off and fall to the bottom of the hole. Now the bolt will screw all the way into the Heli-coil and not bottom out in it or push the last turn or two of the Heli-coil out of place. If the Heli-coil was installed in an open-ended hole in some place that has moving machinery, you need to retrieve the broken tang. Since the Heli-coil is non-magnetic stainless steel, that may be problematic. Unfortunately, I don’t have an easy solution for that problem… ☹

[@thegoodearth7]

Thanks Adam! Just got home from work and the first thing I did was fire up the computer to your channel. May God richly bless your new venture.

[@morcheebix]

Machinist of 5 years never got opportunity to use one. Thx for the demo.

[@dzank9354]

Man ill never stop loving your videos. You know what makes you happy, creating quality, feel good content just doing whatever honest work means to you. Love that, and I think that if everyone in this world was able to find something that truly makes them happy and content day to day like machining and sharing your craft with the world does for you the world would be an even greater place. keep on truckin my man

[@dimphomoatshe7745]

Thank you for the video, im in south Africa we use matric ISO units but the way you explain makes it easy to understand.. I enjoy your videos they are very informative.

[@smallcnclathes]

Years ago working on an aluminium job for a car company, they insisted all tapped holes be helicoiled. Since then I always use them for any threads in aluminium. Makes more sense than just waiting for them to strip out.

[@decadence18]

Adam, Please do a ( How to: ) Series! I'm being cross trained in machining. indicating and setup how to's would be awesome!!

[@Abom79]

Yes I plan to make them as subjects come up during projects.

[@WWIIAddict]

Start to finish with no step left out. Great quality video bud. Thank you

[@Phoeff99]

These are a great series of how-to’s. Easy to search and find and while I love the longer format videos where these tasks are in context these shorter ones are super helpful for specific tasks/skills/tips. Great idea Adam. Keep ‘em comin’!

[@djack2058]

They should do a recall on all vehicles and insert heli coils into the threads that are prone to give. Helicoils are one of the best inventions ever

[@girliedog]

Abom I love this excellent how-to video, thank you. I like your no-nonsense straight forward method of instruction.

[@aidankilleen5889]

awesome tutorial, I knew pretty quick you're an experienced machinist. I've never installed one of these before (was always the next guy's job) and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Repairing a 28 year old motorcycle carburetor is interesting to say the least. "I'll just unscrew this and check the o-rings..." *M4x0.7 screw snaps halfway down, nightmare begins* "Damn, guess I'll use a screw extractor then..." *screw extractor snaps because 28 year old loctite is not moving* "WOW, ok, how about a bigger screw extractor for the broken screw extractor?" *second screw extractor snaps because it was cheap* Lots of swearing and laughter later, I ended up drilling that whole mess out with carbide tools, one of which also snapped. LOL

[@barne3668]

wow. might be THE best Heli Coil DIY I've ever seen

[@555_Kochi_STi]

That K&T really did leave a beautiful finish on that.

[@mrmudslide5676]

Love you man. Congratulations on your big-time subs - you deserve it. Been watching for quite awhile. Big ball kudos for breaking out on your own. Thanks for the great content.

[@OGbqze]

Thanks man!!! Please make more videos on what you've learned over the years! It's helping me as well as hundreds of others! Keep it up!

[@Ratlins9]

Thanks for making this video, excellent camera shots and step by step narration.

[@acvn-hg9gy]

I mean, i know how to use a thread repair kit. But this looked so clean on the thumpnail, i just HAD to watch. Straight up arousing.

[@theflannelfisherman8329]

I learned all about these disassembling a lycoming engine in A&P school that's been stripped and put back together probably over 100 times...

[@srgilleland]

Love the How To style of videos

[@chieft3357]

Instructional videos with audio are always helpful. Thanks :-)

[@Rprecision]

I generally prefer a full insert for high use applications like the Weld jig, but you can't argue the economics of helicoil. I have had good success using a light coat of loctite 242 to help keep them from walking. Thanks for sharing

[@jonathangray7067]

Perma plugs are pretty nice for a more robust application.

[@skylark4901]

If I had a dime for every helicoil I've put in.........But I'm watching Abom to make sure I been doing it correctly all these years, Ha ha

[@notsofresh8563]

I like to 'stake' my helicoils. I install them 1/2-3/4 turn below flush and then I pop a center punch mark into the side of the hole, closing up the top thread, preventing the helicoil from backing out.

[@tylerakerfeldt7220]

Notso Fresh I was curious what’s preventing the coil from just backing out

[@martinkurien8813]

Notso Fresh Helicoils are designed to not back out because they expand against the walls of the thread. I’ve never had one back out (working in aerospace) unless the constituent material fails, like a plastic

[@notsofresh8563]

Belt and suspenders.. Aerospace ≠ Farming.... In aerospace you work cleanly to exact tolerances only use the correct tools. In farming you wipe it on yer pants to clean it, tolerance is "Looks like its good" and the correct tool for anything is either a hammer, a crescent wrench or fencing pliers. You coil a hole and spin in a dirty bolt in the field in the dark, and then when you take it back out, the grit locks the bolt to the coil and the coil comes out. A little center punch pop stops this.

[@notsofresh8563]

Tyler akerfeldt: The coil is slightly too large for the hole and is a spring so when you wind it in, the spring pressure outward created friction locking it into the hole. It will stay in as long as the friction between the bolt and the coil is lower than the friction between the coil and hole. In most situations this is fine. However if someone in the future inserts a dirty bolt, or uses locktite on the bolt, the friction may get too high and the insert comes out instead. Technically this is mis-use but it happens all the time.

[@tsimmons4730]

That works too, was going to say was taught to use a little bit of green thread locker on them to prevent that.

[@rdbanks2823]

Used these a lot when setting CNC fixtures - saves the shop guys from pulling thread on the Ali when loading new parts. Useful on Ali sumps too!

[@mase002]

Using a spring-loaded center punch in the drill press is a genius idea!

[@herotaco]

Love the how-to formats Adam! I think the first video I saw of yours was on how to read Vernier calipers, my mind was blown :)

[@bones357]

I knew of these but never did see one installed. Thanks Abom!👍🏼👊🏼

[@georgecurtis6463]

Gave up on helicoils in the 70s. Have always used timeserts. Yes i was a mechanic and shop owner for 35 years. Otherwise, good tutorial.

[@DodgeCrazed]

I was taught to use red lock tight on the helicoil to help prevent the chance of it backing out. With that said I’ve always had to use them in a more extreme duty environment than a shop tool, usually on equipment or power tools like chainsaws. Heat and vibration are great are extracting these.

[@tsimmons4730]

Same here but was told to use the green

[@yqwgjsg]

Loctite is useless in a Helicoil application since it only properly cures in an air free environment. Due to the construction of the coil, there is always air surrounding the coils.

[@TheArsonsmith4242]

I remember my dad going over this with me back in highschool 25+ years ago when I stripped a bolt out changing brakes on my car. Seems like he knew how to fix anything.

[@tmacie2]

Thanks Adam. I think these vids are going to be a great addition to the channel.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

Who ever thought the coil up deserved to be put on a pedestal in my eyes. They have put soooo many pieces back to work for just a few bucks. From a #6 to 1 1/2 I have never had a failure and they can be done in the field as well. Cast, aluminum, steel or copper. They are great !

[@routercnc9517]

Nice job Adam. We use those in the UK too. Only difference is pronouncing the name ‘helicoil’ similar to the ‘heli’ part of helicopter’, rather than Heel-i-coil. Good mini series anyway.

[@garybaris139]

I much prefer the solid type of thread insert and install them with locktite. I found the Helicoils don't like taking medium to high torques.

[@timothyball3144]

Well done how to. The helicoil may not be the perfect tool for every job, but they do work fine in their application. The biggest one I ever installed was a 50 MM in a hydraulic hammer main body bolt hole. It wasn't a repair though, it was replacing the original that came out. My guess is that less than ten percent of the time, the helicoil came out, but I was taught that an impact gun wasn't to loosen the stud, just to remove it. Loosening was done by hand or with a hydraulic wrench. As for strength, the highest torque on the nut I ever did was somewhere around 2500 lb-ft. and in operation, the hammer is constantly trying to break itself. Of course, these weren't off-the-shelf Helicoil, they were built by/for the manufacturer.

[@roderickwhitehead]

Nice vid, Adam. Short and sweet, right down to it. Of note should be that smaller Helicoil kits also include a threaded sleeve that precompresses the insert as so it does not bind up as you start to run it down into the tapped hole.

[@jerrysmith9780]

Amazing video, great tips, clear, concise, no BS. Thank you!

[@motonol_409]

Ngl, i have been designing mechanical parts digitally on a computer, with helicoil inserts in them for past 4 years, but never knew how it is installed 😂, thanks for the detailed explanation 🙏🏼

[@johnapel2856]

Oh yes. Thank you to the inventor of the Helicoil! And thanks for the video.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

The last step shown is the most important. Failure to knock off the tang will lead to the coil being pealed out or binding from the bottom. Having the punch size closely fit the inside of the coil helps hold the last coil turn in place as the tang is knocked off.

[@dynadude56]

I made that company quite a bit of dough during my years as a Harley tech. Seems like bikers are more heavy handed with their wrenches than other folks, and there is so much aluminum on the trans and motors. Even had my share of repairing Helicoils that were installed incorrectly by the owners of the bikes, other dealerships and backyard mechanics. When people first start using them they have a tendency to stretch the insert and jump threads. Correct pressure is a MUST!

[@Iowarail]

First came aluminum aircraft engines then came the Helicoil.

[@1bengrubb]

Just stripped the exhaust bolt out of my airplane head

[@sethbracken]

This how-to series is going to be great. Thanks for sharing.

[@JM-yx1lm]

That whole process is neat and clean.

[@tridium-go6hw]

Hey Adam, the short how-to's are great! I remember you also used Keenserts on a job at Motion, a short video on using them might be a good companion to this one.

[@Rubbernecker]

Love the idea of these little segments! Lets me watch some of your stuff a second time. 🤪

[@Mish93Will]

Never knew you had to knock the tang off! Thanks for the video, always learning.

[@mrkdiagnostics2486]

Great tutorial, this will be a very helpful series. Thanks!

[@thrownchance]

In a normal thread, only the first couple threads carry all the load. Helicoils (or any springy thread insert) distribute the loads way better. Therefore for critical threads there are often Helicoils installed from the get go (i.e. threads for refiner plates).

[@TheNumber1326]

In addition to that, Helicoils are used heavily in the aerospace industry because they can come with a locking feature that can hold fasteners in better against the vibration of a rocket launch and the vibration on the ISS. NASA requires that just about all fasteners have a secondary locking features in addition to being properly torqued down, which is normally done with a locking Helicoil but can also be done with approved grades of Loctite, safety wire or if non-critical Kapton taping over the fastener can be done too.

[@andrewallen9993]

Just like in Rolls Royce military engines.

[@weathervanerc8147]

I liked the spring loaded center punch to hold the tap straight. Cool video.

[@jafo766]

Another tap with a sharp point will do...

[@TheNefastor]

Always a pleasure to see you work, sir.

[@mccallthompson]

Thanks for another great video Adam! I think you are on to something with the new "how to" format.

[@BigStew007]

Thanks Adam for another concise demonstration.

[@michaelhayward7572]

I have full genuine UK Helicoil master kits 1/4-1/2" BSW, BSF, BA & UNF. posssibly from the early 80's.None of them have a coil insert tool like yours, which looks more like a Timesert tool, but a tool that uses the tang of the coil for driving in & a coil compression tool prior to entry in the hole. Regards.

[@2lefThumbs]

Boom, great short tip video 👍

[@jackbrown697]

Had a general idea and you put the detail to it that I needed. Thanks

[@TheOnlyTominator]

That trick of leaving the workpiece in the clamp and centering the tap with a spring-loaded punch in the press chuck was worth the price of admission. But what the stink are you making?

[@paulmartin5787]

Nicely done, nice to watch someone with machining skills.

[@kevindavis6042]

Really like the instructional side of this video Thank you Adam

[@wayneo7307]

Nice Job Adam ! A Very Well done Job and Explanation . Thank You , I have Used Tap and Dies Before , But I Hadn't Used A Helicoil Set Yet . You Never Know When You Might Need This . Mismatched Metals is A Great Time to Use This.

[@sheep3854]

That spring loaded drill insert is sick, I need me one of those

[@tonybotha3917]

That punch on the end of the tap was a great tip, kudos for that.

[@215maloneboy9]

I really wanted to watch how u cut the heli coil. I remember my first time using one being taught by who I considered a master mechanic. He was very humble. Don’t get me wrong this whole process was amazing. So was the day I first installed one. I had a lot less perfect work conditions on a big work peace. I think it was a ram x dirt compactor but Kwel stuff. Silly part I wanted to see

[@samrodian919]

Another nice, concise instruction into installing the helicoil Adam. One question though, why when installing the insert don't you use the spring centre as you did when tapping the hole? If you have still got the spring centre in the mill chuck surely it would make installing the insert easier than trying to locate it by hand as it ensures it is concentric with the hole. And it puts downward spring pressure like you did by hand. Assuming of course that you have a centr hole in the installation slug. Which could be done anyway in a minute.

[@jhbonarius]

In my experience you don't need it. The coil will just easily follow the thread.

[@gsardokla]

Thank you. I've never seen this done and was never taught, although I've needed to do this once or twice.

[@lawnfascist4890]

I never knew that about the taps being slightly over-sized. And I used these for years, I just never paid attention. Thanks for the info!

[@ScottandTera]

great little tip video.. I liked it a lot.. but I do have a question why no lock tight on the coil?

[@terryeffinp]

You should make a t-shirt that says "commence the tapping!!" I would buy it! I like putting some locktite green retaining compound on helicoils when I install them.

[@wlfmoon1]

We use Time-Sert at work. Super easy to use on the car and almost fool proof

[@jdboy9]

Great product

[@ModernClassics81]

Thanks for the video mate, after watching it I’m happy to attempt installing a helicoil on a damaged thread on my carburettor.

[@hamiltoncomputers]

Love the short video! More please!

[@DavePB420]

Great video Adam, really appreciated! I have a few of these to do soon as I have bought a nice set of Presto coils, but no experience.

[@GlassImpressions]

Adam, would love to make you a nice wooden box for that kit if you are interested.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Thank you mate, great how to do video, helicoils are a great fix in a lot of applications, thanks again. Cheers Matty

[@DonkeyDongDoug]

This is a contentious subject at our shop. For years they used helicoils in this type of application, i.e. a way to strengthen the joint between a steel bolt and aluminum thread as well as prevent galling. Some people are still hell bent on a helicoil being sufficient, while another set of people believe that a helicoil should only be used to repair damaged threads. Our current policy is to only use Keenserts and I believe they have abandoned Helicoils for applications like this. Not trying to take away from your video, just kind of laying our what I have seen on my end considering the application.

[@Abom79]

Purpose of the video is to help people understand how they are installed.

[@DonkeyDongDoug]

@@Abom79 like I said, I wasn't trying to take away anything from the content. For this little fixture it probably wouldn't really matter which method you use. I wasn't criticizing. It might be a good topic for another short video "When should I use a Helicoil or a Keensert?".

[@schmidt60410]

In the military in the 70's every tapped hole in aluminum on a tactical vehicle had a heli-coil installed from the factory. Never had any problem with a properly installed heli-coil.

[@markhalden3922]

My work deals with aluminium machinery out of Germany and all blind holes are helicoiled. Pretty hard to repair if over torqued and you fracture the aluminium thread.

[@leebarnhart9725]

This is quickly becoming my favorite channel. ( Almost ) Makes me want to come out of retirement and make some chips. Often wondered why Helicoil has few competitors, well protected patent or hard to manufacture?

[@ColtaineCrows]

They made a system that works and is simple to use, basically every other version of "thread repair" kit follow the same general idea as the Helicoil ones. Well the ones I've seen anyway, with one exception, those thread inserts Abom showed a couple of times with the wedges you drive in.

[@leebarnhart9725]

ColtaineCrows ...yea, I've used those wedge locks. There good but all too often there's not enough to room for there large diameter.

[@Abom79]

There’s other brands out there, like Recoil. I think Helicoil is the most trusted trade name.

[@justinbudreau4814]

If you do anything in aluminum for defense work , and it is threaded, it will most likely have a helicoil installed spec'd for it. It's great for aluminum parts on ships, makes 'em last longer.

[@johnpalmer4425]

I was about to say the same thing (mostly), I work in aerospace and usually any aluminum part that is threaded and thick enough has a helicoil, otherwise a riveted nut-plate. Helicoils are cheap compared to the price of the part.

[@nate2569]

How does the thread not back out? Is there some way it locks in there?

[@samdavis5079]

It has spring tension. Coill is slightly oversized , that is the slight tension you feel when installing.

[@roderickwhitehead]

@@samdavis5079 - @Nathaniel Baier also why some helicoil kits include a threaded guide to run the insert into before it enters the workpiece. That guide compresses the spring radially to match the tapped hole in the workpiece... otherwise starting the insert into the workpiece can be difficult.

[@kejay74]

@Nathaniel Baier If you look closely at the Heli-Coil you will find that the last little bit into the hole (nearest the outside) is very slightly NOT fully 'coiled'. This gives it a sort of gouge-in effect when loosening the bolt out. "SOME" people may also (using a small punch) force that "tail" to embed into the parent material thereby forcing the locking effect.

[@samdavis5079]

@@roderickwhitehead My sparkplug kits and 6mm kit have these. My others do not. 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 8mm, 10mm kits do not have sleeves.

[@joelsee7941]

Been subscribed to your channel for some years man and have learned from every video I've watched, thanks for putting what you know out there for us to absorb man it means a lot. I also am wondering if anyone has a method for removing broken off drive screws on four jaw chucks? Not sure how it happened but it's a problem, I'm speaking about the threads that drive an individual jaw in case I'm not using the proper words. Someone tightened a jaw until the screw broke off about halfway between the top of the chuck and the center of the spindle bore. Thanks in advance

[@leebarnhart9725]

Joel See ....Take a good sharp #2 pencil and draw it out. Had to kid ya, every so often I get the chance to dust that one off and use it. Good luck with getting that screw un- rooted.

[@TheCristo68]

had a "mechanic" chase a tap in a Helicoil because the no-go gauge would no thread in . 40 years of experience doesn't mean a thing when you're a moron . Thanks for your video .

[@bigrick7108]

The no go gage should not thread in.

[@deanl2427]

Excellent video, thank you. I have used these many times. However, always for thread repair/replacement. Also, I never knew about breaking off the bottom tab.

[@Stephane1995]

So you're not supposed to completely thread the coil in until it bottoms out on the tapped thread?

[@kejay74]

@Stephane Van Der Merwe It depends upon the hole condition / situation. What would you do if in a thru hole on a plate?

[@jhbonarius]

No, definitely not. Especially since the end of the thread is not tapped very deep with this kind of tap: the coil will fit but the bolt won't go in.

[@letsfabricate5388]

I need all the guys in my shop to watch that!

[@RaysGarage]

Great demo Adam, Thanks for sharing!

[@rustlebruxz0013]

Brings back memories of a stripped spark plug hole in a '54 Ford long ago....

[@BillAsh1]

Very detailed. Excellent video!

[@dlwilliams76]

Thanks Adam, for the lesson!

[@maxmaz2]

Awesome how-to Adam! Keep up the great work!

[@yamamaracer]

What are your thoughts on a "Time-sert"? They cost much more but I've always had great experience with them. I'm no machinist just a motorcycle mechanic.