How to install a Lighted Makeup Mirror

[@smmsld010]

That same or almost identical mirror on Amazon now has a rechargeable battery and plug-in on the side of the mirror. No need to wire, but your installation instructions were helpful anyway for placement. Thanks very much.

[@handydadtv]

Interesting 🤔

[@JB-gq3or]

The right tools are so key to a stress free install😊

[@handydadtv]

Indeed 👍🏻

[@aznemma4]

Hi, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for all the details

[@handydadtv]

Glad it was helpful

[@larryv4249]

@ 5:11 You are soooo lucky! You are the first person I have seen who has (3) arms....I am so jealous, I think.

[@handydadtv]

😂 Sometimes you just need an extra pair of hands. 🙌🏻

[@guccifitmerite]

Hello, how did you confirm the amps of the circuit? Look in the breaker box? I need need to do the same thing as you are showing us.

[@handydadtv]

The circuit breaker will have a 15 or 20 for the amp rating. You just need to find the right one that turns off your power.

[@gilly2571]

Nice job!!!

[@handydadtv]

Thanks 😊

[@imanilwilliams]

Dang, I didn't know that you had to do all of this to install a wall mount mirror. I live in an apartment. Do you think that it would be easy to feel that whole when I moved to a different location?

[@handydadtv]

Don’t do this in a rental. I’m sure it’s prohibited in your lease. Get a mirror with a plug-in cord. You can easily find a stud and anchor it to the wall, then spackle the hole when you move out.

[@Knsimbi]

Well done!

[@handydadtv]

Thanks 😊

[@caragitana]

Thank you!

[@handydadtv]

My pleasure!

[@Littlefrogintheocean]

Use me as a Love button ! Thank you for this video

[@handydadtv]

My pleasure

[@tammykennedy9334]

I have an existing light in my bathroom and just bought an LED mirror to hang underneath it. Can I wire the mirror from the existing light?

[@handydadtv]

Yes if you want them to always go on together.

[@kushp576]

Hello, can you provide additional details on the hole drywall saw ?

[@handydadtv]

Adjustable hole saw - amzn.to/2OH2S5h Sorry, added to the description.

[@ralphdicecca2889]

Great vid

[@handydadtv]

Thanks 😊

[@theoriginalcripster]

5:02 Holy cramp!! Are you an octopus? Where did the 3rd hand come from?

[@handydadtv]

A helper

[@heidifritz3053]

Oh, I need this!!!!!!

[@handydadtv]

Everyone does

[@missdaisysunshine8633]

Can you connect to the wiring for a light switch? This is otherwise exactly what we need!!

[@handydadtv]

If you mean “from” a light switch, you need to ensure you have a neutral in the switch box.

[@Addythecatgirl]

I generally like your content, but man is it ever tough watching you do electrical work... For anyone not overly familiar with electrical work, be very careful following the advice in this video as there are a lot of little mistakes that could lead to huge consequences. - You should not be "popping" a GFCI circuit and relying on that to safe out a device for you to work on it. Flip the breaker. - A NCVT should not be your "double check" for making sure the power is off. Use a multi meter. But even before that, flip the damn breaker. - You should not be bending the tabs on the hole at the top of the box from the inside to get the wire through if you have access to it from above. The point of the bevelled tabs is to hold the wire in place so it won't be able to move out on its own. - You are over your permitted box fill with the pancake box. Especially with this fixture since it is not designed to be hard wired and there is basically 0 room inside the fixture base for wires and connectors. You can even see right after you get the decorative nuts installed how the fixture base is wobbling on, presumably, the wire nuts and/or drywall screws. The "6.0 cu. in." that is stamped on the inside back of the box is the box fill allowance, and 12awg wires are 2.25 each, equalling 6.75 cu in. Why install a pancake anyways when there's nothing behind the box, and you have all that room to work with? With an old work box, you would be under box fill allowance, you wouldn't have had to install the plywood, you wouldn't be relying on drywall screws to hold up a mirror that is going to be swung in and out a thousand times, and you would've had much more room for wires and connectors. - And speaking of your connectors, you didn't tighten those wire nuts nearly enough. There should be multiple twists in the wire outside of the wire nut if it is done correctly. Tugging on the wire nut itself rather than each individual wire will not ensure that each wire is tight in there. Especially when connecting stranded and solid wires, as it is very easy for the stranded wire to get backed out as the wire nut grabs the solid wire and tightens down on it. - The clamp on the 12/2 coming into the pancake is too tight. It should not be smushing the wire jacket, just snug enough that the wire cannot move in or out on its own. - Ground connections should always be the first installed, and especially in your case since you didn't fully safe out this circuit for work. - Those brass plates underneath the terminal screws on the receptacle are meant to have the wire under them and the screw tightened down. This is not the same as "backstabbing" the wires into the receptacle. This is actually the preferred method of wiring a receptacle, if the specific receptacle has this feature, as it is plenty of metal surface area for the connection, and you don't have to hook the wire around the screw.

[@handydadtv]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@Milt1033]

Can you help by giving us an idea of what mistakes to avoid?

[@fatmongo]

Glad my wife didn't walk in on me watching this.

[@handydadtv]

🤨

[@julienservais]

Cool

[@handydadtv]

😎

[@pintomaster64]

Pretty cool. Tx

[@handydadtv]

Thanks