How to install a metal roof-over.

In this video I go over some of the basics of how to install a metal roof. Technically what we’re doing here is considered a Roof-over. There will possibly be more to the roof you are wanting to install than the one I’m showing today, this is just the basics. In the future we plan on make detailed videos on how to trim out various different roof types, And trims.
You’ll have to find out what code is for your area. And/or your customer’s or personal preference if you can do a roof-over or not. In our state we normally go over old shingles with a metal roof system such as shown in the video, unless the customer desires a tear-off. we will have to make a separate video showing how to install standing seam roof-over.
Here are some of the tools we like to use, these can be found on amazon via the following links;
Left off-set snips: amzn.to/3uJD5kF
Right off-set snips: amzn.to/3NcSpMS
Edge roller: amzn.to/3GtsBs6
The caulk we Love to use (super strong!!) amzn.to/3GzyF2r
18” hand break: amzn.to/3GrB0wn
You can also get this in a 24” length for Hemming the bottoms of valley angles on standing seam.
Our favorite gloves: amzn.to/3T5jp4R
Our favorite roofing Shoes: amzn.to/482YyU4
(AKA) Hiking Boots)
Power Metal Shear: amzn.to/46IIh5B
Impact driver: amzn.to/3t26iqn
Hand Break 6”: amzn.to/3R6uiRb
Hand Notcher to notch the bottom edges of your standing seam panel for Hemming the bottoms if they don’t come pre-notched from the manufacturer: amzn.to/3Tbl88K
Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/46HAk0A
I am an Amazon associate, and may earn a commission if you purchase any of the products using the links I have listed in the description.

[@dirty7890]

Thank you brother very helpful now when I speak to a contractor I know what I'm talking about and the ridge cap bends on the end are an awesome idea thanks again

[@johnbailey2024]

Great job and explanations, basic and to the point, ive done plenty of roofing but not metal, thanks

[@daviddivoky6317]

Great video ! Best video I've watched on roofing yet . Keep them coming on how to close the end on trim pieces.

[@plankroofing]

Thankyou. We plan on putting out a lot more How-to’s I hope you found it helpful.

[@richardwarfordjr.5622]

I do steel roofing and this is the proper way to do it i go 2ft on my boards and generally I recommend tear off because of summer heat but your ok if you don't just with the new technology synthetic paper is to keep moisture from getting on underneath metal since they only primer it, Great job though!

[@KillerKev1961]

Fine workmanship.

[@brianlundy2068]

Thank you, really useful video and great installation. Good to see such pride and skill level in your work

[@larrysweet2381]

cool, good information. nice job 👍

[@georgeclayjr.2499]

Great work!

[@stevepeppers560]

You do nice work. I'm a high rib screw fan. 2 1/2 inch screws. I've had flat screwed leaks 5 years after completion. Sun draws screws up enough for the rubber to leak. High rib has never failed us. Didn't have a call back even after hurricane mike.

[@plankroofing]

Interesting, We haven’t seen good success with. That method here in the north. We haven’t had any call backs from our screw leaking either. But we’ve seen plenty of screws backed out on old roofs that are only installed over plywood or OSB.

[@jl456]

High rib is actually the correct method for installing roofs but we all have gotten lazy and go low now.

[@plankroofing]

@@jl456 they say you get more up-lift resistance screwing on the flat.

[@plankroofing]

@@jl456 maybe in the early days when it was all nailed. And different styles rib patterns. But now manufacturers say you can screw in the flat. Also proper roof maintenance would go a long way. Like tightening your screws every few years, and replacing them every 8-10 years.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

@@plankroofing I have a roof like the one shown here. I WAS very happy with it, but the screws (on the flats) keep backing out and need to be screwed back in every other year or so. After a dozen years the holes in the wood (2x4 purlins) start to strip out and you need to upgrade to larger gauge screws. I'm thinking seriously about tearing the whole thing off and going standing seam roof instead. It's a small house so it wouldn't be too expensive. Wish I'd gone standing seam in the first place. Great video!

[@Erin-bd6jg]

Beautiful!

[@barthorvath]

Thanks great teaching job!

[@terrybutler1911]

Great work and video.

[@plankroofing]

Thank you very much!

[@julianmiranda352]

you need to make more videos, you make it sound so easy!

[@plankroofing]

hopefully this winter I will!

[@Scott-xc5sg]

Looks fantastic. Metal roofing is rarely straight forward in my experience. Which isn’t a whole lot.

[@frankyalcala2048]

I did learn something thank you

[@timcarson1471]

We did synthetic paper over 1 layer of shingles 10 years ago. No problems.

[@gerardobriseno5146]

Great stuff

[@willkeen5010]

Happy New year. Excellent detail on the end of that ridge cap, I really like that! I’m going be doing a roof over on top of shingles on our 14 year old detached nonheated garage. Currently there are two roof vents that I will be removing obviously to put the metal roof on. Do you think I would need any venting at the ridge since it’s a non-heated detached garage? Also between the roof trusses, they have done 2 x 4 blocking at the ridge so there isn’t really an open air gap if I were to cut a ridge vent. Your thoughts would be appreciated thank you.

[@plankroofing]

Hi there, generally rule of thumb is vent the ridge. If it’s a non-insulated garage, no need to vent. But if there was vents there previously I would vent the ridge.

[@johnhartford3192]

Nice job guys, nice detail on the ends of the ridge cap and rake trim.

[@redeyez8288]

No not a nice job.

[@davidshumway9639]

Pretty sure they are supposed to use the sealer strip for the rake trim too. Which means installing it first before the roof metal isn't a good idea .

[@spicher40]

Condensation will not rot out lath?

[@garljoens]

Is there a possibility of weight concern when installing over pre-existing shingles on old buildings? As in a concern of causing roof spread? Is there a way to anticipate and calculate the possibility of this?

[@plankroofing]

If there is two layers of shingles or more I’d recommend taking them off. If nothing else for the weight purpose. Especially on old roofs, or manufactured homes. Also if you live anywhere where you get a significant amount of snow, you’d want to consider that as well. Because that will add a lot of weight to your roof if it’s shingles. With metal a lot of it usually slides off. Then, Check to see what all is on your roof. And go from there.

[@jamesstoy8967]

I was taught to put the nails or screws in the ridges. The idea is that the ridges peak see's less water than the flat spot therefore better leak protection.

[@plankroofing]

Yes that’s a fine idea. But the first stiff breeze that comes along your roof is gone because you don’t have near the shear strength that you get from screwing in the flat. And if you screw into solid wood, (NOT Plywood or OSB) you have a good solid grip and just keep the screws checked for backing out. And replace them every 8-10 years. A little maintenance and doing it right the first time goes a long ways!!

[@jamesstoy8967]

@@plankroofing I never had a piece of tin to come off nor did my teacher who has been doing it for almost 60yrs. I could see what you said happening if one was to leave the screw/nail loose for whatever reason or didn't use a long enough screw/nail to bite the wood good. I've also heard of replacing the screws/nails every 8-10yrs. My grandmother house was roofed back around in the 60's. Same nails and zero leaks. Rubber even still looks/feels decent! I do have question though. Why is everyone on this band wagon of putting a water proof layer under a tin roof? I can see the reason why when nailed to plywood due to condensation and poor ventilation. But when nailed to strips of wood like the old barns and houses, why is it still needed? Those old barns and houses has done just fine for years and years without it and there many of which that still stands without that layer under the tin and no leaks.

[@plankroofing]

@@jamesstoy8967 I’d guess it’s. Ore for the condensation that can happen under the metal. I can see how it doesn’t leak on the ribs, but I don’t like the idea of it. I’ve seen roofs that leak and that just don’t work as well doing it this way, But I know people do it successfully. But you don’t get the shear strength though That’s one of the main things I don’t like. You can hardly tighten your screws without smashing the ribs. Which I don’t like. If you check your screws every few years and replace every 8-10 years it’ll be just as good if not better. But that may just be my opinion.

[@jamesstoy8967]

@@plankroofing Nothing wrong with an opinion. Glad you actually talking with me, lol! Now on like 5V tin, I can see where there's not enough hold down strength in the ridges alone. The flat spots needs to be nailed or screwed too. I do like to ask, are you using 100ga tin? (Sarcasm, lol). 26ga is thin as I go and never have a ridge bend/crush. That's for debating with me!

[@forgenorth1444]

That’s against manufacturers guidelines and doesn’t get enough compression to seal the gasket reliably

[@rabidfarmer9765]

This gives me hope of taking my time putting metal on my old shingle roof. I can just take my time putting the metal roof on without worry of getting rain inside the house. Saves me from stripping the old roof. LOL>

[@plankroofing]

If you have more than one layer of shingles stripping it would be recommended.

[@mbt94g63]

👍

[@joshuatoral5105]

Could you explain how you did the corner of roof where one roof ends on another pitch with a valley on each side? Seen at the top unfinished section 0:15

[@plankroofing]

I believe what your looking for is explained in this video below kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6nEhoJ9rpuDjqssi=Q5Z5VIVfBn9sVE1B

[@kenstrickland1863]

Very good video, but how did you do the ridge cap at the valley end

[@plankroofing]

Typically we join our valley flashing very well. And then then fit the the ridge cap over top of the valley center part. Cutting it the same angle of the valleys. Some people run the ridge cap all the way under the metal above the valley. But our method doesn’t require you to do that.

[@kosinskiarek]

Great video! Can you post ridge vent install on a metal roof? Thank you in advance

[@plankroofing]

Yes, if the roof has vents in the roof we eliminate those and make sure it can vent out the ridge. If it has gable vents, it’s usually good to go already.

[@clarencefoster7689]

Putting steel over shingles required double sleeper vertices first then horizontal for drainage on the sweeting steel

[@terran5569]

Double sleepers, especially in hot climates or on the south and west sides, provide ventilation with a ridge vent. Roofs can reach 180 degrees or more.

[@SB-mw1bg]

Is there any advantage to using underlayment over top of the shingles before applying the purlin strips?

[@plankroofing]

Yes there would be, some people also use a reflective foil-faces bubble wrap as well.

[@benw1593]

In your experience, if you had a slightly sagging gable ends that are slightly less than 1 foot overhang and sagging maybe 1" would you just let the 1x4's purlins pull them up! Have you ever used C channel along side the 1x4's? Much stronger!

[@plankroofing]

Hi there, In that case you might consider using 2x4’s in order to pull the sagging gable overhangs up. I’m not sure what your referring to with the C-channel. We have used a C- chapped drip edge to go over an old roof, this way you don’t have to take only drip edge off, HOWEVER! If you ever want to install gutters on your house this is not the way to go! Hence why we always remove old drip edge and use standard to make it much easier to install gutters after the roof is installed. We learned the hard way…

[@ButchandArne]

Great video, but I wish you'd explain more how you sealed where the side gable valleys meet the main roof (at the top of the valley). At the end of the video the installation looks great but I didn't see any details about how that was done.

[@plankroofing]

I’m sorry about that, hopefully soon we will be doing more detailed videos on installation process for such things.

[@BittyVids]

Aren’t those screws torqued down too much? The metal is indented and the washer must be too compressed.

[@plankroofing]

We strive to get The right amount of torque. It could look that way due to the 1x4’s.

[@lindalinkous4975]

Plus condensation under the metal. No protection

[@Milesandson]

This is terrible.

[@mr.c6674]

​@@Martys-4x4, be helpful. Explain details or share your video without insults. Thanks

[@Random-bm7ho]

​@@lindalinkous4975This is a very common method to install a metal roof over existing shingles. My guess is you have never installed a metal roof, or any roof.

[@michaelosborne4050]

How do you fasten your purlins … if u use screws and it rains before you get your metal on wouldn’t it leak …. Could I use construction adhesive . And longer screws would go through the metal and then fasten the purloin?

[@plankroofing]

We’ve never had a problem with that. What you suggested could be an option. I don’t recommend installing any roof where it gets rained on before the job is complete.

[@thelouiebrand]

My addition got a metal roof but they cut it flush with the flashing at the edge. No over hand at all. I’m seeing that you need a slight overhang? I’d hate to have my roof redone for an extra inch of overhang.

[@plankroofing]

That’s too bad, Yes, an overhang is what you want. Even if it’s just an inch. You could maybe have them take it off and move it down just a bit to give you an overhang.

[@Batalia122]

What type of nails/screws do you use to hold down the furring strips?

[@plankroofing]

Generally we use 2 3/8” ring shanked nails. And then our screws are also long enough to go all the way through 1x4’s and into the roof decking below as well.

[@callmebigpapa]

Great Video !! I found out in Florida that now the insurance company will say that this roof is too old after 6-8 years and has to be replace....ugh

[@MarkChaney]

why? I checked and metal roofs typically get about 25-30 years depending on the provider here in SWFL versus 15 for shingles.

[@callmebigpapa]

@@MarkChaney My buddy who is a roofer says properly maintained a metal roof will last 50 years but that they are getting failed for inspection by the insurance companies.....

[@joequillun7790]

Wish I had one.

[@steve123261]

looks like you do a great job other than cutting on the grass.

[@dannmann17]

Tell your guys to turn that clutch down on those drills other than that the roof looked great👍🏻🇺🇸

[@dixiewrecked4372]

If you're going over osb, I assume you would lay tar paper down correct? Is there any reason someone wouldn't bring the tar paper all the way down to the guttering?

[@plankroofing]

Yes, go all the way down to the eve. We like to use a brand called titanium, it has probably the best walking surface you’ll get in underlayment. They also make an ice and water shield that I think is better than the “grace” brand. If you do go over just OSB you need to use the largest shank screws you can get, other wise you WILL have screws backing out on you and it will leak. They don’t recommend putting metal directly on OSB for that reason. That is why we put down 1x4’s to give the screws solid wood to fasten to.

[@th3lvb]

what did you use to attach the 1x4 to the shingles ?

[@plankroofing]

Galvanized ring shank nails 2 3/8”

[@SteelWaffen]

What do you do if your roof is 18' on either side but you can only find 12' sheets do you just overlap them

[@plankroofing]

Yes you can overlap them, 6” to 12” Run a stretch of sheets along the drip edge first. And then the top pieces completing the roof up to the ridge, and cut them to the proper length obviously. Check out my video on how to run it straight with the drip edge.

[@LygerTheCLaw]

how do you prevent the roof from dimpling when you step on the areas between the furring strips?

[@plankroofing]

You just have to step on the flat and not on the ribs. And generally we try to walk on the 1x4’s. And use caution. You can span 24 inches on centers.

[@patriciadinh573]

I have an old metal building that I can't find the panels for. Is there a way you can put new panels over existing panels for the roof? Or do I have to replace the hole thing?

[@plankroofing]

I’m not sure I understand what you’re talking about? If you have a building that has metal on it. I would try to remove the old metal before putting on new metal panels.

[@patriciadinh573]

@@plankroofing I have an old metal building that the design or shape is not longer made. So I can't replace a spot on the roof because it will be two different sheet metal design. So I wanted to know if I can just somehow do a metal on metal roof or I should replace the whole metal roof with new sheet metal.

[@garyji]

If there's metal fascia that has to be replaced, is it the case that it must be installed first, then the drip edge, then the panels?

[@plankroofing]

Facia can be installed first or after. Depending on the situation you want to install the Facia after the metal trim is installed, For example on this roof the Facia runs into the roof so in that case we would take the Facia off in order to fit the trim for the metal roof around that spot. And then afterwards fit the Facia to the trim and re-install. But in most cases Facia can be installed after drip edge and can be easier to install later depending on the drip edge.

[@garyji]

@@plankroofing Thanks.

[@DreX-8810]

Man that’s clean, but an Arizona summer would be brutal on the climate of my home, huh?

[@plankroofing]

You can put down a reflective foil faces bubble material that can help reflect heat and provide a small amount of insulation as well as a vapor barrier

[@stanleysears884]

Do you guys do Everlast metal roofin ASL-150

[@plankroofing]

Yes, we’ve done a lot of that. Probably 50-50 when we worked in Michigan

[@jvillebil13]

In Florida roofing panels with exposed fasteners leak in about 8 years because the grommet washers wear out. You have to replace or caulk. Been in this business 28 years here and it they tell you it is a lifetime warranty you better do like Forest Gump did and run.

[@garljoens]

Is there a way around this?

[@jerry4012]

​@@garljoensyeah, get a standing seam roof, no exposed fasteners

[@P.B.Theriver]

What prevents condensation that forms on the underside of the metal roofing from dripping on the old shingles and causing the 1x4's to rot?

[@RenneChampagne]

Vertical strips need to be installed on tile rood FIRST, then the horizonal strips as shown in the video. That way any condensation or water can freely run down the roof and off the edge and not be trapped on the horizonal strips.

[@plankroofing]

There is an air gap which allows airflow between the metal and roof deck.

[@billsmith9249]

Do you guys ever come down to the TOledo, OH area? I live in Walbridge and would like a metal roof! I'd gladly trade labor!

[@plankroofing]

No we don’t sorry

[@regg442]

Using a 2x4 treated instead of a 1x4 non treated would be a better choice?

[@plankroofing]

I’m sure it would last longer. Also a good underlayment would be great too.

[@DynoSauR4Truth]

Has anyone ever asked you to put one inch thick Styrofoam boards between the 1x4 boards? That would solidify it a little bit for walking on and help to insulate the heat from getting into the attic. Would condensation be worsened if that was done? I'm thinking about having a metal roof installed soon.

[@plankroofing]

Yes, occasionally we get asked to do that, In that case usually we use 2x4’s and 1 1/2” foam board as well.

[@DynoSauR4Truth]

@@plankroofing thanks for the reply.

[@sgtawb6904]

Question = why not just screw the metal roofing directly to the shingles/old roof ? What is the reason/benifit of having the 1 x 4??

[@plankroofing]

Several reasons, first you don’t have an air gap for airflow between the old and new roof. Second, it will scratch the metal unless you put an underlayment down first. Third, it gives the screws more to hold on to and therefore they will last longer. Screwing into plywood only will result in screws backing out and leaking eventually. Unless you use larger shank screws made specifically for plywood.

[@sgtawb6904]

@@plankroofing makes sense. Thanks 👍

[@-mejor-que-nostradamus-6152]

How Many Gauges Is That Metal Roof ??? How Long Will Be There For Warranty ??? Good Video Thank You.

[@plankroofing]

29 gauge

[@tommys9946]

I don't know anything about this so this may be an odd question. When you walk on it, isn't it slippery? Also, it's a thin sheet of metal, doesn't it bend or cause permanent crease?

[@plankroofing]

Actually it has a lot of grip if it’s new and clean, and depending what kind of shoes you have. Preferably something with a softer sole. No, it is actually very strong with the ribs the way it is roll formed, it will span 2 feet no problem. Now if you step on the rib in-between the purlins it can buckle. It usually takes quite a bit of force or weight to make it crease or dimple by just walking on it.

[@Araelmunoz033]

What is the approx cost for putting metal roof on a house? (Small house)

[@plankroofing]

Depends on what type of metal roof. Exposed fastener (pole barn metal) style is cheaper. 3’ wide/five rib panel And the hidden fastener ( standing seam) 16” wide panel ( also thicker gauge steel) is about twice as much. I’ll have to get back with you on price? Are you looking for just materials price?

[@sonnybloomberg]

Do you manufacture everything or buy from a supplier

[@plankroofing]

No, we would buy from a supplier.

[@kevindowner766]

Where do you live bro? Must get big snow loads for that many valley screws.

[@plankroofing]

Northern Michigan. Yes we get a fairly good snow load.

[@Noname23489]

@@plankroofing would you travel to Kansas City to install a metal roof over my shingles?

[@USMC427]

What is the color on this metal roof?

[@plankroofing]

It is black, the supplier we get it from has two shades of black. We use the valspar painted metal which has a 40 year warranty.

[@garyb.4080]

What is the approximate cost per square vs conventional asphalt shingles?

[@plankroofing]

Are you asking about materials or labor included?

[@garyb.4080]

@@plankroofing yes sir I was!

[@ashleyly9074]

I think I can install a metal roof now.

[@ZZ-topp]

Quit playing

[@slowsti0535]

Is a metal roof that much of an improvement over traditional shingles

[@meinbherpieg4723]

Yes some can last up to a century

[@plankroofing]

It depends on what quality of shingles and quality of installation job you get. But in general I’d say metal will last longer.

[@lfuentes4098]

What state are you located in?

[@plankroofing]

We are located in TN Used to be in northwest Michigan

[@C1Ksdafafdsa980ufsd]

I'm surprised you aren't using standing seam roofing with hidden screws. It seems as if all barns I've seen with ordinary 3' corrugated metal roofing leak at least a little.

[@plankroofing]

If done properly it will not leak. Many we’ve seen the screws will back out or leak if they only use plywood or osb.

[@plankroofing]

We do a lot of standing seam, actually over 50% I’d say, but this particular customer wanted this style of metal.

[@danielcadnum7214]

Does anybody do slate roofs and repairs to them. I have an idea to restore an old bank barn to original condition. Thank you. 😊

[@plankroofing]

I know there are people who do those. Not sure about repairs. But look online you should be able to find something

[@jimmyfontenot272]

Metal causes condensation and the 1x4s and roof decking will rot, I seen this after hurricane Laura hit.

[@jl456]

That’s a southern problem mainly with constant high humidity.

[@clarencefoster7689]

To many mistakes made on steel roof install for me and no one seams to follow manufacture instructions.All I hear is we have done it this way for years .Doing it wrong over and over makes it a habit not right

[@shawncummings4653]

The screews are driven to tite,you have creases in the pans. The purlins are way to far apart. The panels should be fastened every 2 feet for high winds.

[@plankroofing]

We usually go approximately 2’ on center

[@ChuckReese-mq6gv]

Do you need a water barrier if you're doing a metal of shingles

[@ChuckReese-mq6gv]

And where do I put it

[@plankroofing]

Yes, get the highest quality you can find. Some people use a foil-faced reflective bubble wrap on re-roofs like this as well.

[@C_Fak942]

Without counter batten all the wood under the metal gonna rot

[@plankroofing]

kzbin.infohsIxeHauXdg?si=nQ_4KdqsYXjSoZnl Check this out.

[@rocknrobin4022]

I like it can you do mine😊

[@atchmon902]

I guess taping/caulking the overlaps is overkill?

[@plankroofing]

Yes, unless it is a flat or very shallow pitch. Say, a 2/12 or less, We use butile tape if we have shallow pitched roof.

[@armandomaldonado1559]

Your batterboards do not go horizontal. They gotta go vertical first and then horizontal laughter that if not, you're gonna have corroded wood, you're gonna have a lot of problems insidethe building. It's a no, no bad words or never horizontal. Forget about the shingles , it's the batter

[@grltd4502]

Не правильно, нет вентиляции подкровельного пространства. Металлочерепица сильно конденсирует, доска под ней сгниет. Обрешетку нужно было делать по другому.

[@timcarter9146]

I wouldof convinced them to take them off that’s a lot of extra weight that’s not needed on the roof, and more money in your pockets, unless money was the issue for them

[@ericgautreaux1752]

Putting metal over shingle roofs is the lazy roof applicator method. A true roofer will strip roof to decking to make sure there are no damaged areas to be addressed.

[@Drnardinov]

it's weird that the manufacturer would recommend putting fasteners in the low spots and not on the ribs. Guaranteed to leak once the gaskets solidify.

[@plankroofing]

Depends on how you do it and how you maintain it. People do it successfully either way, But you get more sheer strength and up-lift resistance screwing in the flat. Also The screws will back out more and sometimes even break off if you screw on the ribs. Also never screw into plywood or OSB, solid wood like 2x4’s or 2x6’s are best for metal roofing.

[@Drnardinov]

@@plankroofing the last thing I want to do is maintain my metal roof. That's why I go with standing seam. 50 years no leaky. If you have to replace low spot gaskets every 5 years you may as well go with heat generating tar based comp. Darker the better. Let's heat this place up because I want to grow avocados in Oregon. We're paying $1.59 for an average avo here. It's an outrage. Dam cartels and I guess Biden.

[@adammacer]

So many issues with this I don't even know where to start.. screws punched too tight, strapping at varying centres, screws punched in anywhere not in a line.. I cam here for advice on how to do a roof-over valley but I think I can figure it out better than you do it..

[@rafars2246]

It takes more effort to skip screws than to install them...

[@Clovethelightrespectthepower]

It makes me sick people go over shingles with metal, can we agree to disagree?

[@armandomaldonado1559]

Metal roofs condensate water travels underneath them 30% of the time. If you have a 100% water on top, you got 30% on the bottom. Do not put your one by board's horizontal. You should have not even put any boards. You should have turned around and put a vapor barrier and your metal right on top. You created your own problem

[@plankroofing]

kzbin.infohsIxeHauXdg?si=YeLDWpyEbaDkJtA6. Here’s an example of a roof that did great!

[@Ikenw-qr7ne]

⁠@@plankroofingI’m curious because I’m about to do a project like this. The video you posted in response to this comment “Here is an example that did great” had the wood elevated an inch using pieces of wood. That allows for water to drain downward. I do not see anything lifting the 1x4s off this roof in the video. Do you think water will get trapped? Do you feel as though lifting the wood is pointless?

[@MrYorugua12345]

So you suggest just vapor barrier and screw the panels to the roof sheathing ?

[@robertbutler8004]

For me, that is a pathetic metal roof installation. (1) the timber battens are not thick enough,(2) and the roofing screws are fitted in the flat part of the sheeting.

[@slightlyup3485]

How thick would you prefer the timbers sir? And where exactly would you like the screws placed. 1 inch to the left or to the right?

[@christopherhansolo9069]

Did you miss all the over-torqued screws dimpling? Especially along the valley. His worker was using an impact which over tightens the screws way too often. That is going to be a problem roof in many areas in a few years.

[@briancarroll3541]

thirty-year licensed contractor here: you should NEVER do this! the asphalt will rot at an accelerated pace under that metal, creating a constantly degenerating situation. the sleepers wont help keep the fasteners fixed to the underlayment (plywood roof deck in most cases), b/c there's no way to prevent the shrinkage that those degrading shingles will leave between surfaces, creating a loose connection and subsequent movement between the panels and the roof deck. seen this many times. stupid.

[@fett_420]

Not a roofer professionally, but I would take all that asphalt off to get the weight off my house alone anyway.

[@briancarroll3541]

@@fett_420 sure. in a snow-prone region the added dead-load could be an issue.

[@plankroofing]

I know the best is tear off, I wasn’t in charge of the crew back then and that’s how we did a lot of roofs. But check out this video here showing a 25 year old roof done this way, and is completely fine. kzbin.infohsIxeHauXdg?si=nQ_4KdqsYXjSoZnl

[@rosscohenderson1651]

I already see something I don't like , and I'll just leave it at that .

[@dennynordli6350]

Terrible system. Rip the roof off and do it properly.

[@chrisbrunette9495]

In all honesty it’s never a good idea to roof over existing roofing , for many reasons.. people only do it cause their cheap and you only do it so you don’t loose the job 🤷‍♂️

[@user-zn9ot4er6t]

Do my 1x4 need to be a special type of wood or can I use regular 1x4 from homedepot? Thank you 🙏🏼 @plankroofing

[@plankroofing]

They can be regular 1x4 But preferably harder pine like yellow pine or fir.

[@jl456]

1x4's already have screws in them so why use a longer screw to put the metal down ? So there's a better chance to have leaks? Doesn't make any sence!

[@plankroofing]

Longer screws for the metal actually Mae it less likely to leak, because they go all the way through the 1x4 and into the decking as well therefore giving the screws more to hold on to. If you would only use 1” screws they would have a greater chance of backing out and leaking. The less they have to hold on to the more likely it is to leak. Especially if you go over just OSB with metal. If that’s the case you MUST use bigger shank screws that are made for OSB other wise the screws will back out and leak.

[@joequillun7790]

@@plankroofing Good answer.

[@jl456]

@@plankroofingusing more screws into the decking always increases the chances for leaks, only screwing into the 1x4 lessens the chance of leaks very simple in 5 to 10 years you’ll be going back for warranty work. Those rubber washers don’t last forever, you’ll see.

[@jl456]

@@joequillun7790wrong answer

[@plankroofing]

@@jl456only using 1” screws in the 1x4’s will increase chances of leaking dramatically because the screws won’t have much to hold on to, trust me. With these 1x4’s the screws will strip out really easy if it’s just in the 1x4.

[@quebec801]

why are u too lazy to rip those shingles?