How to Install a Microwave Hood with Exhaust Fan - DIY

How to install duct work and exhaust system on a wall-mounted microwave oven.
Instructions:
1. Remove range and microwave
2. Rotate roller to circulate upwards
3. Install microwave adapter with flapper
4. Tape around adapter to ensure no air leaks
5. Measure area of exhaust to cut a hole in bottom of cabinet
6. Cut hole
7. Reinstall microwave and verify opening is big enough
8. Tape area around adapter from cabinet to microwave
9. Measure area to cut hole in top of cabinet
10. Cut hole
11. Run flex duct through hole
12. Attach duct to register boot and tape
13. Seal boot to cabinet with more tape
14. Measure area to cut hole through side of the house
15. Cut hole with drywall knife on the inside
16. Cut hole with jigsaw on the outside
17. Insert hood
18. Attach duct to hood and tape
19. Test for any air leaks
20. Enjoy!
Equipment Used:
Flex Duct
Register Boot
Exhaust Hood
Bosch Jigsaw
www.amazon.com/...
Drywall Knife (related product)
www.amazon.com/...
Foil Tape
www.amazon.com/...
GoPro Hero3 Black
www.amazon.com/...
GoPro Accessory Kit
www.amazon.com/...

[@mauricelee7299]

The power of modern technology!!! First off, thanks to the creator of this video. This was published 6 years ago and it is still benefiting people to this very day, despite what appears to be some mistakes installation. Secondly, thanks to all the people in the comments ( some I assume are professionals in the field) who gave the much needed corrections on the installation. For me, one of the reasons I used to be doubtful about trying to do projects like this is because of fear of safety violations that could hurt me or my family. However, with all of the comments and many people saying the same thing about the correct material to use, ai feel confident that I can complete this project. Thanks to all.

[@samadabdul1242]

Anyone watching, you should never use flex duct for microwave or range hood. Flex duct is for dryer vent. This will capture a lot of grease and will generate a lot more fan noise.

[@erickllanos4687]

Samad Abdul what should he had used?

[@nsudatta-roy8154]

A 6" solid tube, minimum.

[@ralphramos2285]

Huh?

[@manuelpradosantana1768]

What type of tape should he had use?

[@chrisjackson7184]

Steel or aluminum. Something smooth

[@Casasflooringandremodeling]

BY FAR, the easiest step by step installation video. Thank you very much sir!

[@fqeng79]

Hey brother, watched ur video almost a yr ago and finally this weekend made it happen. Thank u.

[@zonedout5998]

Don’t use flex duct. It will trap grease and you’ll have a fire hazard.

[@sachaleia]

It's not as powerful as I thought it would be, but it works very well. kzbin.infoUgkxGjG43--gYqIoT4Xkur2PqCrtbKwTv2h6 There are three options to circulate air, and best of all a remote control for us lazy people. Installation was a breeze (no pun intended). It actually took longer to open the box then it did putting the side extenders on and sitting it in the window opening. It's a perfect alternative when you want airflow, but not the AC. Just might order another one for a different room. UPDATE: Bought another one like I said. They work great. Why not have two...

[@MrHitmanmatt]

The homeowner installation is strong with this one hero jobs

[@joeoconnell5706]

Great video, I appreciate the help! But I second the flex duct - you're going to want to replace that with rigid metal ductwork that has a smooth interior to meet code & safety standards.

[@eschrader]

Single wall? And home depot only has this cheap roll it yourself stuff. Anyone sell any good runs of 4" rigid metal lengths?

[@mannylopez15986]

Correct

[@greid9349]

I know you say the rigid metal duct is needed to meet code and safety standards, but do you know the reasoning behind this? Just curious.

[@joeoconnell5706]

@@greid9349 Because of the ridges inside, flexible ductwork is more conducive to mold growth, it has a higher resistance to airflow, and the ridges also provide many more surfaces for dust and debris to collect.

[@adiadi5948]

the only tiny change i would've implemented would be to put a bead of silicone on the inner flange portion of the outside before installing it, that way you get a full contact seal with the outer wall and partially inside the hole for a more sound mounting and sealing option but 👍 nevertheless!

[@faradpack]

absolutely agree, I just made a comment on that and also use of liquid drywall or cauck on the inside border as well, no roaches comin in from that crack

[@cleanmazda2345]

Checking the studs before drilling a hole through the wall is very appreciated!

[@nidusa1]

please don't use flex duct for kitchen hood, besides not passing code inspection, it will hold grease. Use solid pipe, no flexible duct, no screws, and hoods usually need 6" or 8" or even a 10" duct pipe size for better air flow and less noise (see manual for appliance for their specific requirement). you can buy a converter that will allow increase from smaller duct size to larger. And that plug must be accessible, if you care about code/safety, move it over to left or right.

[@loboplumbing6258]

Good comments below you should first... Hire a Licensed individual who will install it as per local codes! or follow the installation manual since that is the minimum standard for all venting! Also like mentioned the flex duct shouldn't be used because its undersized, could trap grease, cannot be installed touching the wood cabinets, and cannot terminate under a wood overhang that would be considered fire hazard! Good job narrating the video Sir

[@vijayshrma3107]

This is a great toaster oven replacement to the one I had for a few years. Easy to use, has all the right controls to cook my food how I would like. Looks great and doesn't take too much counter space. Very happy with my purchase.

[@gmg1202]

Thank you for making this video. You saved me a $100 service call to an HVAC specialist.

[@metalmaniaxx]

Only $100? Honestly I would have just paid the money and saved myself all that hassle as a homeowner.

[@robertozayas-ginorio2165]

We appreciate the detailed video. Gives us a good starting point when we do our project.

[@PaulA-vc6sn]

Thanks, you just solved my reconnection problem , disaster of install to new microwave,because sheet metal one would not fit space. Guy we hired screwed us bad and left us a nightmare!! Round flex hose perfect solution with 2 end caps , you used at microwave vent. My roof vent is also, rectangular. Thank you for posting !

[@jonmiguel]

Anytime you are working in or altering cabinetry if you take a minute to remove (in this case unclip) the cabinet doors you will find it so worth the effort.

[@eukaryon]

Thanks, still useful after 5 yrs. Good idea using duct tape everywhere

[@joshuatrager788]

So I m glad you got that in but unfortunately it's got a lot installation issues. First off you needed to move the outlet to the right. The venting is very undersized and is the flexible type. Needs to be 6" ridgid minimum, 7" recommended. Also ditch the crappy factory vent damper. I find most times when you connect your venting it gets bound in place. They make inexpensive ones that actually work you can install after the transition.

[@whutchyt]

May I ask why move outlet? Just learning before I hire someone to do.

[@joshuatrager788]

@@whutchyt Proper ridgid venting is going to totally obstruct the outlet. It should be ruffly located above where the cord comes out of the microwave. It can be on either side the vent.

[@sl5311]

Do you have an example of a damper "actually works"? It seems like this is a part of the specific microwave? I can see going into HD and them saying, they come built in you don't need one. thanks

[@deezee1570]

Your microwave exhaust fan is rated at least at 300 CFM. Maximum flow through a 4" duct is 180 CFM. A 5" duct is a minimum acceptable for this installation.

[@eschrader]

Actually, the google says 400 CFM for a 4" duct. www.prolinerangehoods.com/blog/which-roof-cap-vent-hood/ Though I dont see any codes around the exact CFM.

[@deezee1570]

@@eschrader For a 4" diameter pipe to let 400cfm thorugh, the air needs to have the velocity of nearly 4600 ft/min which is 52 miles/hr. There is no way those little motors can push that much air. It's physics and there is no magic to it. If still in doubt, take any manual for an over the range hood, or a microwave with one, and see that the minimum pipe diameter is recommended.

[@XXtrbxx1990XX]

This man is correct. We always run any vent over the range in 6" and never flex. Not bashing this installer but like you said read manufacturers specs for venting on appliance

[@anthonysanchezmistymcelroy8273]

I have a question? Is that, For connecting the vent hood to the microwave just foil tape?

[@deezee1570]

@@anthonysanchezmistymcelroy8273 The outlook on the hood should slide into the tube a few inches. The more, the merrier, but it's usually about 3 inches. The connection is then taped generously with aluminum foil. I also apply the tape along the vent tubes on the connection crease.

[@josesoto2079]

Ey AMIGO today 6-26-2021 remodeling my kitchen install a new microwave l don't know how install a exhaust duct but learn w your video .!!!! Thank you so much love your explanation easy instructions and very helpful video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@charlesmirabal1671]

There are a lot of good/positives to take from this. But huge negative is that you are not using the correct duct and vent size. The microwave will say a min. 6" circular vent or 3 x 10 inch rectangle duct....Your fan is likely much nosier and will not pull as much air as it was designed to do. The most difficult part of this install is dealing with larger duct. If you go with the rectangular duct to fit the opening in the micro. then you will most likely have to completely sever a stud....which will require you to cut a large hole in the drywall and add a header and jack studs where the stud was cut out.

[@Pepe-dq2ib]

Or turn it 180 so you dont have to touch the studs.

[@yosh1to]

@@Pepe-dq2ibdid you mean to say 90 degrees?

[@jzm6403]

A 6" duct is not needed in an application like this one. A 4" rigid pipe carries 400cfm. Most Microwaves are at or under that. I installed a 4" rigid pipe out the side of my house because of cabinet clearance on my ceiling. I have tall cabinets and simply did not have the space for a 6" pipe. I actually removed my microwave and installed a Hauslane Range Vent hood. It's rated a 500CFM but that's at full speed which is simply not needed. On low speed the fans are extremely quiet and move a tremendous amount of air. On the lowest setting the vent outside my house will mess up your hair in a heartbeat. I checked it with boiling water and actual smoke from cooking breakfast meat, like bacon and sausage. It pulls the smoke up immediately. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out. I would have installed 6" but simply didn't have the room.

[@silverwess]

thanks, man that helped. already have ducts in place removing old hood putting in a microwave with fan.

[@ivaerak]

I've been busting my brains on to how to connect the pipe to the exhaust hole and now I find that TAPING IT UP IS SUFFICIENT??! Where have you been all my life

[@user-xx7pg3vw9k]

ivaerak this is the normal way to do this

[@ivaerak]

Thanks. In the end I used styrofoam instead, cause the tape wouldn't stick successfuly to the alufoil pipe. So I made little styrofoam cubical profiles and jammed them between the pipe and the hole, all around the diameter and now it's safe and firm, and without any air gaps. There are also reduction threads for pipes in hardware stores, but it wouldn't work in my case.

[@user-xx7pg3vw9k]

ivaerak ok, because I have to do this later today. You don't think duct tape would have worked? Do you have a pic of your styrofoam duct?

[@ivaerak]

T. B. unfortunately I don't since I don't live there, but I can sort of make a schematic drawing or take a pic tomorrow.

[@ivaerak]

The tape simply did not stick. Here are the pics drive.google.com/file/d/0ByhT-6c2_xZ9YzdfM0Q3Ykgzenc/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhT-6c2_xZ9Q1ZhTEFRNDVQb3M drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhT-6c2_xZ9ZXNReUdFSDN6RFk

[@bmausmus]

People have pointed out the flex is illegal (and extremely dangerous), but it looks like you're working with 4 inch duct as well. 300 cfm, typical of a microwave, is the upper limit of 4 inch duct. Some laws put 300cfm above the upper limit. You're going to have a LOT of grease buildup in there, which WILL start a fire. Your flex duct is also on the outside of the boot so as the grease drips down, it'll pour out the sides into your cupboard, adding fuel to the fire.

[@jzm6403]

400 cfm is the upper limit of 4" duct, not 300. a 30" stove would be 100cfm for ever 10". So 300cfm is needed. His 4" pipe handles 400 cfm which is fine. He should replace the flex but many people use this. Even pro's from the range to the upper wall vent.

[@brewwarrior132]

Great job and thank you for this video. I have a different setup, however, I needed to replace all the ducting as well as our microwave because Starlings ripped off the exterior plastic vent covers and made a nest inside the ducting. We didn't notice until it was too late and now we're having to clean and sanitize everything. Its an insane mess. Thanks again!

[@jjcmafia]

make a cage out of 1/4 inch wire mesh to go over the vent without restricting the flaps of the vent. if you spray paint the mesh to the same color as the vent it will hardly be noticeable. I generally cut it into the shape of a large cross...then bend the tabs down 90 degrees and then back out at the bottom to resemble a top hat. Good luck with those birds.

[@artbykeenan]

No its not

[@kajalano3198]

Nice video and thanks for the time and sharing. One thing though...I do believe that you should only use 6 " duct for your Range Hood/MWave vent pipe. I recently did a similar project and 'tried hard' to go with 4", but every online resource I visited or Pro I spoke to me tried to veer me away from that. I eventually used to 6". Same principle except that the outside vent caps are HUGE. My understanding is that 4" is used for dryers, 6" for ranges.

[@mitchy02]

+Kaj Alano Thanks for your feedback! While I do agree that a 6" duct would be ideal to move the air, it is indeed quite large. I created a soffit above the cabinets and if I were to have done a 6" duct it would have been too big for what I had intended. The microwave still does a really good job at removing the air and that the 4" duct is handling it well.

[@BigBand1942]

;

[@user-eg7dv3tg9x]

This is a great idea. I was thinking about running my duct through the roof since my stove is not sitting on an outside wall but this is a way better idea and that hole that you cut with a saw is pretty damn good for being cut with a saw!

[@samsayedzada6293]

This is the best method of teaching.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍

[@frix57]

Thanks for making video. It's great to be able to wathc someone else do it. Nice job with the tape. You took more time than I think the average contractor would have. However, I don't think that flex vent pipe is allowed per any code within the United States - covered by the National Building Code.

[@robertsuarez4198]

Only rigid galvanized pipe is allowed for kitchen exhaust.

[@isabelaguirre1]

This video helped us so much! You have no idea how frustrating this project has been for us and how long it has taken. We could not get help anywhere and wanted to do it ourselves. Thanks to your video we were able to do it.

[@larrym603]

Just had to say glad to see your doing it yourself good for you. I know here it comes BUT You don't use flexible duct on exhaust must be rigid pipe. Using tape like you did wrong again tilting the fitting to accommodate the electrical not a good idea. 4" duct wrong again if you check your manual I'm sure they recommend 6". Do the math the square part of the fitting is most likely 10x3.25" 32.5 square inches - 4" dia area is only 12.56 square inches - 6" dia would be 28.26 square inches. Sorry but way to much wrong here to not say anything.

[@leatherman651]

Good to know Larry M. I'm watching videos to learn some tips to make my microhood install easier. Do the 3 1/2" X 10" square to round adapter come in a 6: diameter? I have only been able to find 4" also. Thanks

[@ltsmeet]

Totally agree. I'm looking on doing something very similar and the duct is supposed to be 6". I assume he went with 4" to make sure the duct isn't visible.

[@bigpardner]

Yes, does the rectangular fitting come with a 6" round outlet?

[@seanburns1278]

he is using an HVAC adapter. A proper over-the-range hood adapter is 7" round.

[@seanburns1278]

I will say, 4" is more ventilation than he had (better than recirculating)...but I agree. He cut his area for airflow by about 2/3rds when he used a 4 inch duct. And flex duct is the wrong way to go (at least it was not the flex dryer duct). Should be 7 inch round...though it seems 6 inch is getting more commonly used.

[@youchris67]

Bravo! Well done! However, switch to a rigid duct--not a flexible duct.

[@spinningchurro]

That semi-rigid stuff is alright. Rigid stuff is obviously the best, but the semi-rigid stuff is acceptable for short spans. It’s way better than the soft stuff that tears easily.

[@tinmania]

Thanks for the video. I am about to do the same thing, though I am fortunate that I can go right through cabinet since it is an outside wall. Strangely I asked at both Lowe's and Home Depot on what to buy and I got no help. I even asked if the register boot would work and the guy at HD said no and gave me a number of an air conditioning place to "build a box" in my cabinet (that I would then have to somehow connect to outside).

[@mitchy02]

A register box would also suffice. Any duct housing should work really. Just need to find the right size to accommodate your setup. Building a box is really just that. They would make a metal box to sit in the cabinet to catch the air and and exhaust it. HD or Lowes offers enough options to find something that would do the same job.

[@taniar7327]

Thank you! We are working on installing this exact microwave today. Finding the template for the back wall would have been a complete failure without your video. Thank you so very much!

[@mariofajardo2142]

Excellent video my friend. I own a handyman business so I know this is not easy to do. You did great!

[@lesleeblu9381]

Thank you SO much for doing this vid! I have the same problem/scenario in my kitchen AND it's layout is just like yours. I was going to get a few quotes to have this done, but now I think I can be successful on my own. I will consider some of the comments about the ducting. Did you post a vid of your soffit to cover the duct work?

[@MAGAMAN]

Code calls for rigid metal ducting with a smooth surface. What you used will collect grease and potentially start a fire which you insurance company will refuse to pay for.

[@ticklemewilly]

This is not a commercial job so duct that he used is fine. Not much grease should be getting in the vent because of the grease filters on the microwave should catch most of it

[@ebrahimamin8275]

Thank you very much for this clear and perfect explanation and filming about this project.

[@jdowdone]

Good video with a couple of issues. The electrical outlet should have been moved. No sense cutting a corner here as it may lead to issues with adapter becoming loose later. Also hard pipe duct is to be used. The flex duct is not acceptable. Cutting corners always results in later re-do's.

[@ticklemewilly]

J Dowd flex duct is acceptable , it can handle the heat. Not sure what you are speaking of but I have been a service tech for 25 years That vent is rated for gas dryers too

[@WrestlerMonkey123]

@@ticklemewilly flex duct can handle heat no problem, but the ridges reduce your airflow by up to 50% and can accumulate moisture. It is highly discouraged by everyone I have talked to. If you have been in service for 25 years, then you probably are using information from 25 years ago.

[@xanthanx]

@@WrestlerMonkey123 Agreed. Flex duct should not be used for any application dealing with heat transfer.

[@papato3]

@@WrestlerMonkey123 Not to mention grease will build p inside the ridges and become a fire hazard.

[@jkagoso]

@@ticklemewilly its it's not the heat the oroblem but the grease from the food.

[@bigcheetah987]

Just another comment about using the rigid/smooth ductwork as opposed to flex ducting. The reason for this is that flex ductwork will catch grease inside the it's creases over time, increasing the chance for fires in your ductwork. For that reason, it's against IRC M1503 (International Residential Code) to use it in range venting applications.

[@jlLeeification]

Yes but the exception is manufacturers instructions and there is foil duct that is fire resistant and rated from the manufacturer for kitchen vent

[@Justadadonthetok]

​@@jlLeeification yes. home depot sells one made just for kitchen and vents that's 7 inch. I have to use that the last 2 feet horizontally because my attic space is tight and any 90 degree won't fit. I'm using rigid straight from the damper up to the attic. so I can easily change thus part out or clean if necessary.

[@chrisabcdefg8171]

Great video. However, 4" exhaust is no good for this since your OTR Micro fan is likely 300 CFM (100 CFM/10" of cooking surface). You connected a 3 1/4" x 10" or ~30 SQ" area to a 12 SQ" vent.

[@oscarochoarealtor]

What should be connected ?

[@justinkaminski1097]

@@oscarochoarealtor Given the fact that the opening on top of the microwave is 3.25" * 10" (32.5 SQ"), just use the formula for area of circle: A = pi*r^2. With that you get a minimum diameter of just under 6.5". However I've seen most people say that 6" is sufficient. I think this is because the 32.5 SQ" opening on top of the microwave isn't all being used, rather just two smaller openings that the fan blows air through.

[@BigBand1942]

Good Video, I would have used a dryer clamp on it to tighten. And also would have put a cover plate on that outlet. Furthermore a flat plug extension adapter would have worked for behind the vent. Good Job....

[@bigpardner]

very good. I will try this myself when I get the energy and will probably use 4" solid duct across the top rear of cabinets, hiding it as much as possible, through a small closet and out. A longer path than yours. I may try to put in an additional exhaust fan at the outlet. Another option might be to go straight up, into the ceiling, then 90 degrees back out between the joists in the ceiling and out. I'm afraid though there might be electrical work there from the kitchen lights.

[@jzm6403]

I have almost the same setup but will be using solid tube instead of flex. I read many places that 4" carries 400CFM which is more than enough for this 300 CFM microwave. So many will say you MUST have 6" but this is overkill most of the time. The formula I read was 100 CFM for every 10" of stove size. Mine is 30 so I would only need 300CFM. 4" pipe is sufficient.

[@bpsbells]

The flex duct is not approved by the IBC for range venting.

[@garretts91]

Great video although, microwave exhausts aren't made to deal with much backpressure. You should use a 6in pipe, minimum..Also, flex duct in a big no no... All the ridges will catch grease and it doesn't pass code. You need to use solid duct for kitchen exhausts.

[@bitahaji6287]

We just watched this video and it helped us a lot. Thank you!🌸

[@DavidWilliams-wj4sc]

omgosh, use a long bit to go all the way through the wall to the outside as a pilot so you know it's all lined up. Also that foil tape feels so strong, but in 2 days it can fall off, iknow it seems crazy. use shurtape 181a-p/181b-fx.

[@zixto76]

wow@ this guy did it him self great job. I was just thinking how to do something like this. now I know thank you

[@jeff427427427]

Great work, thanks for taking the time to share, I am sure it added 50% time to your project.

[@mitchy02]

+Jeff Poore Thanks! Definitely had a number of retakes. :-)

[@boostenmkiv]

Nice work, will have to see what your soffet looks like

[@drock5404]

I never understood why this procedure is called installing "an exhaust fan with hood for your microwave". A hood for an exhaust is something made to catch the air from whatever area you're trying to exhaust. In the case of a microwave, itself is the "hood". The ducting consists of a transition piece from the microwave to whatever duct you are using to vent the air outside.

[@branetraveler]

Nice video. Helps that I have the same microwave as the author.

[@jasonxm1560]

Many viewers have correctly noted that the electrical arrangement is very wrong! Missing cover and electrical cord in direct contact with a metal duct that will vent hot cooking air. Brilliant work! The cord may melt or the vibration will wear the insulation off! Shame on you. Move the outlet first.

[@abidmehmood9313]

Wondering why you went on the side all the way down instead the other wall right on the back of microwave? Do you have another video that cover (hide) your duct work. It was very informative video. Keep up the good work. Thanks

[@pearlperlitavenegas2023]

Only use UL approved foil tape. It's printed on the tape. Also check your local code regarding how close to a window/door soffit your exhaust should be.

[@frankbiz]

Great, that was very helpful. I am buying a brand new condo and I can't believe that they don't vent to outside. My only choice is to vet in my 2 car garage which is better than venting moisture/smells inside the house. It should be code to vent outside. I hoping that the GE unit that he put in is able to make that conversion change. I wanted the builder to do it but he said it doesn't pass code but I can do it later. I don't understand that if you can vent in your living area, why not into a garage. Maybe they think fumes from the car will go into the house...hello I don't run my car in the garage, furthermore there is a door that goes into it. I'm doing it no matter what, it's better than going out and smelling like what you have cooked. lol

[@PeterMurrayj]

It is most likely fumes from garage. Same reason an auto- closing garage door is code. (Spring hinges)

[@frankbiz]

@@PeterMurrayj hahaha, I forgot about this post. I ended up putting a real hood with a fan to the outside. Glad I did, was the best $1,200 spent.

[@pradipinfo]

We appreciate the detailed video .. great job ..

[@bobmilton928]

Dude you are just what I needed to install my vent dammmmm your the best

[@brianleduke7536]

Moving the electrical outlet over would have been a good idea.

[@whutchyt]

I noticed someone else said same. I have to get an electrician to put in an outlet in cupboard once I buy mine. Why move it may I ask? And IF I was getting someone to do duct/vent up through attic and roof does it need to be moved too? Thank u just learning

[@maverickf13]

Very helpful, thank you. Subscribed. Going to try this on Sunday.

[@dumas1012]

At 5:48, how the hell did you manage to install the microwave WITH the flapper vent installed? When we tilted the microwave back on, there was no clearance for vent. We had to take off the vent and install it from inside the of the cabinet.

[@blaztekaofficial898]

Very helpful 🫡

[@teckbugz1278]

Thank you very much for this! You're awesome!

[@davidcastaneda2405]

at first I was worried how this was going to turn out? but you did. .. not bad. ..

[@dominicdavis117]

great video !

[@21boxhead]

THERE IS GOOD REASON WHY THEY SELL FLAT PLUG WIRES

[@omelborpon3159]

Yes, a 90 degree (L shaped) plug can replace the straight plug on the AC cord. It might allow vertical mounting of the duct.

[@Amirhelwani]

Great and informative video. Thank you sir!

[@76honda76]

Hi Mitch. I like to say thank you. this is exactly what im looking for...... However, up to the point of tubing it out side. I will tube it up to the attic and possibly outside somehow. Im just wondering why did you have to remove the range? I guess it was in your way? Anywho, thank you for the VD. i wasnt so sure what to do with my microwave. Fortunately we have the same one! haha So I will be on this project soon!

[@mitchy02]

+SoundsRight Thanks! Glad you find the video useful! I removed the range so that it was easier to work. Good luck!

[@rollinmckim4719]

Well Done! Thanks

[@voz39zam]

thank you sir for sharing.. wow thats looks easy , i will do mine next week end, thank you again

[@marcelobf85]

Just to make sure, with roof venting installed, no air should come out at the front of the microwave, right?

[@macbookproearly2011]

There is a drill connection that drills a perfect 4 inch hole with an each 1/4 inch or whatever for space to slide the, the drill hole comes out through the wall so when you go outside you just line up the will with the hole and you get a perfect straight through circle that isn't uneven . I don't know if you did or not but I would also recommend some kind insulation, like great stuff foam insulation in the wall before closing it up on both sides. I would also recommend some kind of weatherproof caulk under the rim of the outside before screwing it down. Also if you're extra paranoid about pest, putting a metal or fiberglass screen on the outside duct hole just in case because wasp and roaches are very smart and can get round that flap. Again great video, just little things I added, I'm doing this soon, got my materials this morning.

[@mitchy02]

***** I looked into the 4in hole drill but didn't want to spend the money because I dont think I will have any future use for it. I did use caulk to seal up the inside/outside which I didn't show in the video. Thanks for the recommendation on the screen for the exhaust. I will have to add that.

[@macbookproearly2011]

mitchy02 yeah the screen is real cheap comes in fiberglass and metal. Had a couple houses where we would have wasp in the kitchen a lot. Wasp love those sides of the house with a cover and shade and can def get under those flaps.

[@lamarharris3901]

This was very helpful!

[@johncasor9698]

you could really should remove everything that you installed... and you never should of moved that range... that uncovered power source must be moved to start with it is easy to do... and 6'' smooth venting is a must, that dryer 4'' venting will get lots of grease in it and will catch fire believe me........ you can go out that same wall... also many of these ovens only have 2 fasteners on top i do install of these ovens in san diego many Hundreds of them for 6 years now...

[@peterkonitzer4410]

@@tannervoss1669 From sun reys it's hot in San Diego

[@tridoshic1688]

pretty sure those filters will capture most of the grease not to mention the grease will always be INSIDE the microwave assembly anyways

[@tridoshic1688]

I think what you are referring to is for exhaust fans specifically not so much microwaves with exhaust fans

[@michaelapennington9267]

impressive we are thinking about getting us one

[@sidrakhan8934]

This video is very helpful thank you for that I’m just unable to find the little flap thing that covers the fan on top of the microwave any advice on a local store I can find that probably? And what exactly is it called I’ve been trying to find it online but can’t find it anywhere? Could you maybe help me with a link on Amazon or Home Depot or from where you week it from I need it to be shipped a little quicker or to find it local anywhere maybe at lowes or somewhere that would be even easier.

[@sidrakhan8934]

I have the exact same microwave as you just a tiny bit different if that helps. It’s 30in in size and has similar functions and looks almost exactly the same as yours.

[@youelserrano5428]

You mean the damper?

[@pakidude2004]

thank you for this awesome video. it was very helpful.

[@nishantkhatri5672]

Great video. I live in a apartment building. Can I vent out into the bathroom exhaust duct?

[@robertarmstrong6301]

No

[@XXtrbxx1990XX]

No way. Call landlord

[@samiryounes9670]

great video and very helpful..thanks for sharing

[@velvia73]

Thanks! We have to do exactly that! Love this!

[@dannyiskandar]

hi Thanks for the video ..it is really useful. I have a similar situation and have a soffit like yours and probably has to go with 4 inch solution vs 6 inch to hide the duct. I have a question: How do you know where exactly to drill from the outside that fit the hole on the inside? And what type of saw that could be used to make hole from the outside? Cheers, Danny

[@mitchy02]

Thanks for watching! The easiest way is to drill a pilot hole from the inside to the outside and then measure accordingly. I used a jigsaw. It would be easier to use a hole saw but they're not cheap.

[@Cello69.]

The way i've done it is outline your circle on the inside wall. Find the exact center and drill your pilot hole all the way through to the outside(you might need a long bit). Now from the outside using a hole saw bit thats the diameter of your drawn circle make your hole. There is a center bit that sticks out past the circular teeth. Stick that into the pilot hole. You should cut directly onto your inside line.

[@christopherdonlick9119]

residential code requires a smooth duct.

[@wingnut0837]

First of all thanks for the video. EVERYBODY should vent their microwaves outside. Those recirculating things are just dumb. Second, I know rigid piping is the proper way to do this but not everybody has the coin and/or pipe fitting experience. A legit pair of tin snips is around $35. I've used this flexible dryer duct on this very same project in the past and just changed it out every couple of years once I felt it was nasty enough inside. Compare the flexible duct job here to the chicken coups that people in 3rd world countries call home. LOL. Works good enough bruh.

[@darylspindler8463]

Well, I guess I was dumb for installing an inside vent microwave. On the other hand, the airflow is faster than outside vent, and adequate for removing smoke from cooktop. It was much, much easier to install. Perhaps you are the one who is dumber (or perhaps dumbest).

[@coryc.9709]

Did you try opening the damper inside the duct adapter? Usually they barely open because of the steep angle of the adapter.

[@TheElevenBravo]

On behalf of the world on KZbin, I want to thank you very much for this very informative video! We really appreciate your insights! God bless!

[@victorvek5227]

Don’t ever use flexible duct, or semi-rigid ducting for this application. Always use rigid, galvanized steel ductwork.

[@Dub-ry4cs]

Is there something behind the wall the microwave sits on? Is that why you didn’t just vent out that wall?

[@johnd9031]

very helpful for my installation

[@abc-bu7nr]

This is incredible That's almost exactly my setup same cabinets and everything

[@claypottinger7372]

I'm not carping. Having no plate on non-visible electric outlet is like an inclusion in a diamond...can't really see it but it is an issue. In my state (CT) and almost all others the inside of the vent tube "must" be smooth. Makes sense, don't you think? If erose it would collect droplets of oil, etc. Possible fire hazard, conflagration, death in the night.

[@briancnc]

Nice video but should have used 90s and rigid duct, it's just as easy to work with as flex duct. This stuff is the worst for dryer vents, if you use smooth wall rigid duct you will almost never have to clean it out.

[@macbookproearly2011]

Nice video, Seems like I'd be able to do this vs shelling out cash to have another hole in my roof.

[@mitchy02]

***** Thanks! Yeah, there was more work involved to go through the roof. This was more of a convenience method. Also, with having vaulted ceilings it would require for my to run the duct through inside the wall.

[@fucheduck]

you have stucco I have brick. is there a brick saw that won't mess up my mortar? snug or not I'd mix up some cement(or stucco) to fill in the gaps outside. here anyway, we have damned cold winters and only way I could mount is outside the north wall. in addition to the soffit you can partition off the inside of the cabinet with double or triple ply corrugated cardboard(cheap paint it white)and still get your cereal boxes in there without bashing the ducting around(things get hectic in the morning with breakfast boxes here anyway :) my old appt I had one of the exterior ducting pipes and it got pinged alot with metal cans mostly those grits, oatmeals and coffee cans. That storage space is still good though.

[@AyubKhan-zi4go]

Very very useful. Thank you!

[@froj.p6364]

Awesome. Super helpful. I am trying a similar project, although the duct would have to go through an interior wall that divides the kitchen and dining area, and then across till it exits the home. I would say the distance would be 14 feet. Seeing the as duct would be exposed for 10 feet or so: Is there an option to install a larger duct over it, perhaps with an industrial look, that maybe makes it serve as an accent to the home, rather than an eye sore? Any suggestions?

[@mitchy02]

10 feet is quite a bit, but an industrial look would probably be the most appropriate.

[@froj.p6364]

+mitchy02 I hear if it's going to be so far it may have less ability to exhaust the air. But is there a way to install an external fan outside that helps pull the air?

[@froj.p6364]

+mitchy02 also can you use a solid pipe rather than a flexible one?

[@mitchy02]

You can use a solid pipe. Probably more recommended. I haven't heard of that. And you say your distance is 14ft? Your A/C ducts run further than that.

[@CoconutMonkeey]

REALLLY!!!! helpful... thanks

[@faradpack]

HOw about sealing the little crack between tubing and the wall to prevent insects and also better insulation, Cauck or some potty or...

[@philandrew1625]

Really great tutorial Thanks

[@Mirameyou2]

Good video really helps😀