How To Install A New Arbor In A Table Saw

[@RGwoodVA]

Thank you, John, for a great tip. I bought a Forstner bit a millimeter larger than my PM1000's arbor shaft, drilled out some oak and made 4 blocks to press the new bearings in a bench vise. The first one, especially, required a lot of force -- almost broke the vise handle. And yes, that banging appears to be normal. Saw is running like new again.

[@JohnHeisz]

Perfectly explained. My vise is the spring, since it flexes slightly under the driving force. I thought about chilling the shaft first, but thought as soon as the bearing started on, it would pick up the cold and negate the effect. Added to that I had very little trouble pulling the bearing off the Delta shaft, I thought this would go on easily. Still, it all worked out in the end.

[@CorneliusMichaelIII]

John, your KZbin Channel is a treasure trove sir! I can't thank you enough for the arbor removal and install videos! I'm presently reconditioning a 1984 Foley-Belsaw 10" Cabinet Table Saw Model 490 that my Dad gave me after he upgraded to a Delta Unisaw. Its in great condition, but with a 32nd of an inch runout I was frustrated. I went through every tutorial I could find to no avail. So I located the manual Dad gave me with it and using the exploded view of the parts I got the arbor out!

[@steveallen456]

Just like all the other comments on here, thank you very much. That was a very descriptive and yet short video. Thanks again.!

[@woodtool2882]

Man, thanks for showing me that. I need to do this on my old (Green era) Jet contractors saw. I thought I was going to have to lay under the saw, or do a whole bunch of other things that now don't make any sense. What a relief.

[@hassleoffa]

The bang is the point when the pressure applied exceeds the slip friction limit ... think of it as loading a spring and then the bang is when it has enough energy to jump forward. Because you can't manually apply continual force like in an hydraulic press you'll keep jumping instead of a steady press fit. As everyone else has said ... cold and heat make that go a little quicker but you have to work REALLY fast because steel is an excellent thermal conductor. Great Job John!

[@fouroakfarm]

Impressed with your skills! I run a small bicycle shop and have an expensive bearing press; your homemade tools do the job just as well

[@AsiAzzy]

Nicely done, that's a large jaw opening for a vice. A hydraulic press works very good ONLY IF it is perfectly straight and surfaces are parallel - otherwise it can force the bearing crooked and damage the arbor and may jam the bearing due to now oval shape of inner ring. - seen that happen a few times. Another method is with a socket/piece of pipe with right diameter and small taps with a metal hammer. By hammering it self centers and relieves tension that would want to make it crook.

[@tipsclubs01]

John, your video was Excellent. I have an old 8 in Delta Homecraft table saw Model # 34-500 that I need to replace the arbor bearings. I'm more of a "show me" guy, not good at reading and following instructions; but your video was very good and simple to understand. I think now I can do it. Thanks again. Phillip

[@AsWoodTurns]

As soon as a new shaft arrives for my stationary belt sander, I'll be mimicing your process Thanks Alan Stratton

[@JohnHeisz]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

[@gordroberts53]

You are correct, the banging goes with the territory. What you didn't mention is that the pressure should be exerted ONLY on the inner race, never press on the outer race while pressing onto the arbour shaft, you seem to say differently at around 2:20. Conversely, when the bearing/arbour assembly is pressed into the mounting bore, press only on the outer race (which you did mention). In short, always press on the race that is being fitted, i.e. inner race onto the shaft, outer race into the bore it rides in. Cheers, Gord

[@JohnHeisz]

Good luck with it Alan!

[@zeratul575]

i was always thinking arbors and the like were more complicated. this gives me confidence

[@JohnHeisz]

Exactly - great word.

[@JohnHeisz]

A few reasons, but mainly because I can do better. These saws are the right place to start.

[@TheBergy32]

Seems like a nice project! :) I think the jerking goes along with home-made bearing pressing. Same thing occurred when doing wheel bearings for a trailer.

[@JohnHeisz]

I've always had to make do with what I have on hand to get the job done. Even now, when I can easily go get the right tool, I would prefer to come up with a home-brew method.

[@leonardocarvajaldoreste2838]

Excelente y muy didáctico, gracias por tomarse su tiempo tan valiosos en grabar estos videos para nosotros . todos los dias aprendo mas. Gracias.

[@Toms_Wood_and_Leather]

You were correct to make the taper to push on the inner race you always want to push on the static race. The popping does come with the territory.

[@mrbreezeet1]

I just got mine all back together real nice looked up on top of the toolbox at two wave washers were up there now I don't know where they go. Hopefully your video shows.

[@JohnHeisz]

It looks like the flange is pressed on, then turned to final dimensions on the shaft.

[@jaywillems3452]

Your videos are great! I'm right in the middle of replacing arbor bearings and shaft key on my Rockler (Delta) 34-607 builders saw, which appears to be built very similarly to yours. I'll probably borrow your press-fit in the vice method to get the new parts in- getting them out was a nightmare. Thanks!

[@RickMcQuay]

I need to replace the bearings on my lathe, this gave me some ideas. I about spit food on the monitor when you said banging goes with the territory.

[@OnEvenKeel]

That banging scares me, too. It makes me think there is some galling. I wonder if another lubricant would lessen this? Glad to see it worked out, though!

[@tmealer2003]

your video's are always so interesting and informative.

[@robertprice2900]

Repair v-engine on lawnmower

[@JohnHeisz]

No damage done at all, since there was never any significant pressure put on the outer race.

[@PinHolePip]

These are great how to videos.

[@mrbreezeet1]

Are you sure you are contacting only the inner race when pressing that bearing on the shaft?

[@IH1940HAY]

When pressing bearings where it is a friction fit on the inner race press on the inner race, likewise if it is a friction fit on the outer race press on the outer race. If pressure is placed on the wrong place this pressure is transferred through the balls or needles to the other race which can damage the balls or needle rollers.

[@stephenmclachlan9265]

Hi John. Very impressed about the table saw build. I have the same saw, but have not been able to source a someone that can supply me with spare parts. who did you go to. Do you have a plan of the build. Top work

[@sinsilius]

Banging is totally normal. Cold and heat went extremely well here. And I still got a question for like a year. How is the main flange fixed to the shaft? I'm sure that it's not turned out of one piece, so is it welded or pressed onto the shaft? I have built myself a tablesaw, but i'm not completely satisfied mainly with it's shaft as it has too much flex and makes unclean cut when cutting thinner stock (less than 2cm or aprox 1 inch), so I'm looking forward to upgrading it. I also have a *

[@BackyardWoodworking]

Great tips on how to fix a saw.

[@h7oslo]

Good how-to, John. I'm surprised you did not use physics to assist with the first bearing and shaft. I'll toss a shaft or bearing in a plastic bag and leave it in the freezer the night before, and a bearing may be warmed on a hot plate or coffee pot warmer.

[@751815218]

Hi John, please, what is the correct torque for the arbor nut? Thanks, blessings!! Ray from Puerto Rico

[@CorneliusMichaelIII]

Your diy "every man" bearing pusher is going to be a life saver! Regrettably I didn't find your bearing removal video until after I already used a harbor freight bearing puller set. It has a pointed end & I didn't think to place something flat between the arbor end & the HF pointed tip. It got the job done, but now there's a small divot on the arbor's end due to my removal op. How would you recommend measuring the arbor for tolerances to ensure its not bent or damaged? Where did you get yours?

[@gjdewald]

Thank you for this demonstration

[@KenJamesJr]

where did you buy your new Arbor?

[@BigDulay]

Great Video John! Keep em coming!

[@juggerable1955]

a Busy Bee table saw?? must be an oldie. but I can tell ya the way it looks like it's built. It's built alot better than my 1 year old Ryobi table saw. my funky lil plastic gears are worn out already that takes the blade up and down. even thought of sending ryobi a nasty lil email and see what happens. gl with your saw. God Bless :)

[@Upyr-u2t]

Здорово! Понравилось. Правильный подход к работе!

[@SimgoWood]

Hi John, I'm rebuilding my first fullsize cabinet table saw, and I remember that you where able to get this relatively rare arbor on the net. cant you refer me the site where you got it? I'm looking for a locking knob for the tilt wheel of my King industrial table saw. Thank, I appreciate your work

[@liviO13]

That “ring” for pressing the bearing with your homemade "bearing presser" looks very familiar, is it a mortise cylinder ring?! I work on commercial doors! Like you did! Lol

[@guitarsandsuchetc]

where can I purchase the whole arbor shaft?

[@rlynch109]

Where do you buy the arbor? I have a craftman table saw, 113.298760 and i need a new arbor but cant find where to buy one. Got any suggestions?

[@jasonburch2061]

Wish you had shown bearing removal Sir

[@mwkc1940]

Hi John, firstly thank your for sharing. After watching your re-building of table saw, I intend to make one using a induction motor. Reason is I have a table saw using a circular saw. Is running to loud. To start with it is difficult for me to get hold on a arbor because I am in Singapore. It is possible you help me to purchase 1 pc complete with nut and washer as shown in your video.

[@gotahvcls]

Hi MW, have you tried searching with the tag, /ca to attain Canadian web sites for the "Busy Bee" supply store? It is likely, if you find them, then order, pay enough for shipping to your town, that they would do so. (if needed, ask a 12 year old child to navigate the system.) To satisfy my curiosity, please let me know if this works. jc

[@davidbrewer5329]

Hi Jhon At last cant wait for the next link D J B

[@sinsilius]

question why wasn't you satisfied with your homemade tablesaw?

[@synapse131]

When I worked in a bike shop we had the use of the press for the motorcycle shop downstairs when we had to press bearings for Kleins and Fat Chances but really when you look at what the press is, they shouldn't be that expensive. A steel frame with a moveable center section that slides up and down along the edges and a car jack would suffice readily. Some welding equipment and angle iron and it shouldn't be that hard to make one. And there are also simple ways like John's too.

[@shawnh2870]

You may never see this comment but... where did you get the new arbor from I'm looking for one but I cant find anyone in Canada that sells them

[@TheGeohart]

to use an old method to freeze the bearing, and the arbor, thus making the diameter of each just that much smaller and easier to press on.

[@mueblewelton3338]

Just freeze the arbor, let the bearings rest in the sun for two hours. The bearings will slide in with almost no effort.

[@СергейСоловьев-ц9с]

Good day, please tell me the dimensions of the bearing saws, and the number of rows in bearing

[@croakerchoker504]

Can you make a stationary stand for a Milwaukee portaband? I think you have one, if I'm wrong about that then just disregard this lol..

[@bruceinman5957]

I've got an old Delta Rockwell 8" table saw. Its a 34-500. When I googled it you site came up. Your arbors look just like mine. I thought Id try to find them on the Busy Bee site and to no avail, I cannot. Can you help? Mine is a 5/8 shaft that is approx. 7" long. Nice video BTW.

[@bruceinman5957]

I found out that the arbor piece TAB-506 has an arbor that is for both the 8" and 9" saws. Its the right part. I found it on ebay. For those of you who run into a similar situation, that arbor is correct!!

[@spartaeus]

If you had put your arbor in the freezer for about an hour, you could have just slipped those bearings right on. Freezing metal shrinks it slightly. Heating expands it.

[@IH1940HAY]

It wouldn't hurt to use a couple of drops on Medium LockTight on that nut just to insure it stays tight.

[@IH1940HAY]

Just a word of caution about pressing a bearing on a shaft, only press on the inner race, NEVER on the outer race, as this will damage the bearing.

[@KhanJohnston]

No need to make washer out of a flange to press the inner race. Your arbor washer (that sits between the blade nut and the blade when assembled) will do it perfectly. Need to press the outer race? Flip the washer.

[@stanleyg64]

sometimes its best to put the shaft in the freezer and the bearing in in hot water.

[@MaDeuce80]

The banging is normal. I got same noise when i replaced the wheel bearing on my car.

[@azulmarin149]

esta fenomenal pero megus taria saber si puedo conose piesa por piesa de la maquina

[@TuffMovies]

smart

[@deezynar]

Stiction, is what it's called. Stick+friction.

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

Too bad I replaced my arbor and bearings before you have posted this video... IH194HAY

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

But just as I thought IH1940HAY wrote that it's better to press on the inner ring but never on the outer one.

[@АндрейКувшинов-к2р]

Спасибо, я восстанавливаю такую пилу.

[@selador11]

You missed your opportunity to pretend to press those bearings on by hand. ;)