HOW TO INSTALL A VENTED RIDGE CAP

IN THIS VIDEO I DEMONSTRATE HOW TO VENT YOUR HOUSE ROOF AND INSTALL A VENTED METAL RIDGE CAP
FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY
The metal I'm using is called "crinkle black"
I purchased all my materials at buckeyemetalroofing.com/
They are a local company. Google "metal roofing supplier" to find one in your area.
The buble-wrap underlayment I used is Rfoil 2500. It can be found here rfoil.com/insulation-product/...
The Fabral vented foam closure can be found here www.homedepot.com/p/Fabral-36...

[@willkeen5010]

I found your channel and you’re series on metal roofing. I must say that you spent quite a bit of time and effort making is one of the best series on KZbin. I am going to be putting a new metal roof on our detached unheated garage. Would you recommend venting the ridge since this is an unheated detached garage? We live up in Ontario Canada if location is a factor. Thank you

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you! I don’t think location should make much of a difference. Technically if your garage is uninsulated and has no ceiling, you can get by without venting the ridge. But I always recommend installing vented ridge as it will allow summer heat to escape and also if the homeowner decides to heat the building down the road, they won’t have issues.

[@mickey7660]

Great videos lots of good information. I have a soffit vented attic however, the 2nd floor rooms are right up to the slop (bottom of the roof). Does anyone know how I could do this venting but insulate as well?

[@MT_Homes]

Run styrofoam baffles where the insulation makes contact with the roof decking for continuous air flow from eave to peak.

[@zippythechicken]

good tips ... thanks

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks for watching!

[@stevenpierce4359]

Thanks I now know what my roofing people did not do thanks

[@b-radumuck7903]

Thank you

[@tommyschulte2577]

Great video! Question. Do you really have to vent all the way across? Or can you just vent between like 4 rafters or so? Thanks. Oh. By the way. My garage is 30 feet deep. By 22 feet wide.

[@MT_Homes]

I would highly recommend venting the whole ridge. The more airflow the better your roof decking will last. Also make sure your eaves are vented for max ventilation.

[@marknktown2642]

I just had a Tuff shed built with the metal roof and ridge trim. What would i do if i decide to run an air conditioner? won't it all just blow out the top? it's a 12x14. I didn't even think about that when i ordered that type of roof. I live in Arizona and it gets hot.

[@rickparshall]

Heat rises and cool air settles.. it would help hot air and condensation vent out of your roof keeping it dry. And increase the efficiency of your AC

[@novaart6181]

seems like it is going to lower down the warm keeping capability even there is a foam around the gap? I think this design. I feel at least there should be more foam to cover the long opening.

[@dshoutd1]

Where did you buy your metal roof supplies if you dont mind me asking I want that same color and I'm looking around now.

[@MT_Homes]

This is the company I deal with here in Ohio. buckeyemetalroofing.com/ If you’re not close enough to purchase your metal from them, check around your area for a metal roofing company. For the best price you’ll want to purchase directly from the company that rolls and cuts your metal. The color I’m using is a standard black with a crinkle texture. Good luck!

[@bortnerfamilyadventures1369]

This is exactly what I need to do at the ridge of my A frame house . There is no attic it’s all vaulted so I am nervous the wall paneling will have moisture issues . What do you recommend I use for insulation in the wall bays ? They are 24 ft long 2x12 from eve to ridge ? Also there is high winds during wind storms here . Will foam keep driving rain out ? Thanks again !!

[@MT_Homes]

I have yet to see any rain some through the vented foam closures. Definitely shouldn’t have any problems on a steep A frame roof. Spray foam is the best insulation in my opinion. On vaulted ceilings I’ve seen where they spray foam the under side of the roof deck (between the rafters) and not vent the roof at all. Has to be closed cell foam. Or you could run insulation baffles from the eave to the ridge between each rafter and use regular fiberglass insulation.

[@TheDavidscc32]

M.T. could you use poly iso on top of the roof deck as well, or does it have to go between the rafters on the underside?

[@MT_Homes]

I have used 1/2” ISO board on the roof deck and screwed the metal directly onto it with no issues. Just had to make sure I factored the extra thickness in my screw length.

[@mikeytryingtofixthings9355]

I had a roofing company cut the ridge out and they installed the vented ridge cap enclosure on the east side but put the solid ridge cap enclosure on the west side. I asked why he did not vent both sides? He said because it would let the rain in if the vented ridge enclosure was installed on the west side. I thought that was why the vented foam materal was there to keep the rain out? Is the roofing company right or am I correct?

[@MT_Homes]

Wow. That’s the first time I’ve ever heard of that. You’re right, the reason to install vented closures is to keep the rain and snow out while still allowing the roof to breathe. I’ve installed foam closures in all directions and never had them leak. If the foam closures they used won’t keep the rain out when installed on the west side then they won’t keep the rain out when installed on the east side either.

[@marshtam]

I bought a house that has a metal roof, soffit vents, and no opening in the ridge. Has one whirlybird vent only. I had a terrible co sensation problem this summer. Ruined a wall. Should this solve the problem?

[@MT_Homes]

This should definitely make a big difference.

[@1weirddoe571]

I don't know if you'll advise it but I made my panels 1 inch longer are 1 and 1/2 in and bent them back at the top under the vent caps so that's like a sloppy h e m so the rain doesn't have any chance on lower pitches and I even did that on the hips so the rain doesn't have much chance there because it has more of a chance there and then I vented the hips to allow condensation to escape since I didn't use any battens furring strips whatever you call. But my question is can I just use the Menards electric cutter and snip 1/4" off the rib off the fat lap and then turn that into an overlap rib or will that be too sloppy because it seems like I have too many pieces going the wrong ways and I don't want to waste them all. So I wonder if you tried that and then you basically joined to overlaps together and made one the under lap even though it was supposed to be an overlap to save on wasted materials?

[@MT_Homes]

Good idea on bending up the ends. Although I have never had rain come through the vented closures, it never hurts to be extra cautious. If you look real closely at the factory overlap rib sitting on top of the factory under lap you will notice that the under lap rib is formed differently that the overlap rib to create a small air gap to prevent the water from siphoning up over top of the rib. (See link) For that reason I would not recommend trying to use an under lap as an over lap. Also, that lap will stand out from the rest even if you look at it from the ground. See anti siphon here. www.google.com/search?q=anti%20siphon%20roof%20metal&tbm=isch

[@1weirddoe571]

@@MT_Homes, I see. How about overlapping 2 overlap laps which means you're running the seams 2 ways. It wouldn't be too bad to run the seams two ways but it messes up the screw pattern since then you can't have a screw on the correct side of the overlap. Have you ever done this run panels seams two different ways? It seems like I have so many pieces and I can finish off one side hip with three pieces but I'd have to reverse the sram direction and that doesn't bother me it's just what do I do with the screw pattern because I won't have a screw in the right spot next to the fat lap or to hold the fat lap down where it's supposed to be and I want to keep whole side original screw pattern because it would put a gap in the screw pattern reversing panel seam. so I would have to keep the original screw pattern but it wouldn't be correct next to the fat lap on those last three smaller hip pieces.

[@GarthFransman]

Good day from South Africa . I have a crazy condensation problem in my attic due to high humidity in attic . I guess i will need to do something like this on my metal roof . I Hope our local suppliers will have all this material . What type of screws are you using ?

[@MT_Homes]

1/4” nut drive with neoprene washer. Wood binder is the brand, I believe. Make sure your attic is well vented in the ridge and the eave.

[@gregorytetterton3190]

Like it

[@dustinfox5703]

I am installing metal on my shop roof what is your opinion on screw placement? Some say on the rib and some say on the flat what's your opinion

[@MT_Homes]

Always on the rib. Years ago I screwed on the flat. You will run a much higher risk of leaking on the flat. Good luck!

[@dustinfox5703]

@@MT_Homes thks

[@serenap.1041]

Flat

[@serenap.1041]

@@MT_Homes We don't do that here in Florida, we place screws on the flat if it's corrugated metal classic rib ridge panels, or 5 V rib, all others it's on the ridge of the panel. 3 inches from eave, 16 inches on center. I guess Florida builder's are different. We also don't butt our ridge cap at the gable end. We measure back 1 inch, mark the center of the cap according to the roof pitch and bend downward 90° with hand seamer. Least that's what's code here.

[@jwalk3107]

What is that corner trim called? I’m trying to order a roof. There are so many types of trim J trim, L trim, rake trim, reverse j. I just want that edge cap you have.

[@MT_Homes]

Some companies simply call it “corner trim” others call it “rake trim”. My company calls the trim I’m using a “residential corner trim”. A standard corner trim is 5 1/2” on both sides. The “residential corner trim” is 5 1/2” on the roof and 3 1/2” on the facia board side. Personally, I like using this on houses because it leaves more of the facia exposed. Some companies’ “residential” or “small” corners are 3 1/2” on both sides. Thanks for watching!

[@brentgrubbs8146]

Can I use this foam strip for my pole barn?

[@MT_Homes]

Yes

[@davidrgray6097]

What is the stick-down vent material called and/or who is the manufacturer? I have a condensation problem in my hay barn and I need to know if this is the answer long-term. Thanks

[@MT_Homes]

It’s a vented foam closure made by Fabral. Is your barn open or completely enclosed? If it’s open on one or more side, the vented ridge will not help much. Do you have a vapor barrier underneath the metal? If not, then that’s likely the problem.

[@davidrgray6097]

@@MT_Homes The barn is open completely on one of the longer sides and it has a vapor barrier between the metal and the rafters. The moisture drips off the rafters and probably the trusses as well. I think I'm going to install an attic fan

[@mickey7660]

@@davidrgray6097 I've heard that if you have gable end venting (your open end side of the barn) you don't want to have the roof top/ ridge cap vent because the air flows opposite and causes the air to get trapped inside.

[@davidrgray6097]

@@mickey7660 In my barn I have the west side completely open, with all other sides walled off. There is no ridge cap vent (maybe there should be). The barn builder applied a sheeting of what I thought was condensation prevention at the roof - just underneath the metal roof. Nonetheless, the rafters (and whatever else) "sweat" and drip water down whenever the temperature falls to around 35 F or below. My plan is to install an exhaust fan at the top of the barn side opposite of the opening - east side. Thanks for your input

[@edbouhl3100]

Are the foam closures available in a nonflammable material?

[@22cudaman]

hard to say, just make sure you have fire insurance

[@anthonynatali6789]

We seal the top foot or so of decking with roof patch, use chicken wire to screw it over the venting in the roof itself in order to keep bugs out, and put a small strip of wood on either side to deter driving rain. It’s always worked fine for us, but in a professional setting I would not recommend it because liability. I however do plan to continue doing it that way on my own buildings as it’s not failed me yet.

[@anthonynatali6789]

To clarify: when I say chicken wire, I mean a wire mesh, and normally layered up twice just to be sure.

[@williampaul7881]

Did you install your own metal roof

[@SouthernSpirit4Life]

Good way to have attic rates

[@serenap.1041]

I'm assuming your saying Rats? Or are you saying rates? Well rat's will find a way in no matter what. The only thing they can't chew through is metal. And yes rat's can get in that vent from the top especially with the closure strips, here in Florida we don't use them unless the customer requests them.

[@chevyvega6622]

this part i do not understand. If the ridge was built without this large slice, why do you open it up?

[@MT_Homes]

The house was built without a ridge vent which can cause the roof decking to sweat and potentially rot it out, drastically shortening the roof life. Also a non vented attic will be hotter on a summer day which will make the home harder to cool. Thanks for watching!

[@rickparshall]

M.T. HOMES I learned about lack of venting on my house.. it was roofed before we purchased it and nothing was vented.. the entire deck rotted from within. I am in process of rebuilding the entire roof. New rafters,flat overhangs fully vented and vented ridgecap, solid 4" foam board insulation with minimum 2"space above boards to allow good airflow. New sheeting and all metal from eaves to ridge seeing the old wood was Swiss cheese due to years of carpenter bees infesting it... huge quarantine project,long overdue.. gotta love the 1789 farmhouses.. oh new ridgeboard installed to remove a 4" sag in roofline. (Had a chimney in center many years before we moved in and decades of water damage on old rafters) fun project! I got all our metal rolled out from our local Mennonite company but got solid closures for ridge... am searching for good vented closures to fit our panels. Same profile as what you installed.

[@MT_Homes]

Sounds like quite the project. Your metal supplier should have the vented closures like I used. If not, Home Depot can order them in as well I believe. Link is in the description.

[@rickparshall]

M.T. HOMES actually just found out the addition I put on 20+yrs ago and ran the shower vent out had come unhooked.. I remember forcing some drywall framing inside while finishing bathroom.. bet that vent never actually went outside.. 8x16 addition time for rebuild too.. this time ALL vented.. (I never liked the valley or overhang anyways, good excuse eh?😂😂) going to add more pitch,it's only like a 4/12 ish...

[@rickparshall]

M.T. HOMES thanks for the reply!! That roof is hotter than blazes today, lower 90s and upper 90s humidity..

[@ericwinans1069]

Kind of a silly note, but you started out cutting the vent on a shingle roof and put the vent cap on a metal roof... ???

[@MT_Homes]

I installed a metal roof over top of the shingle roof. Here is the entire series. kzbin.info/aero/PLcoTb0qwRA6kpakHRV6n4K5MXjIleiDyP

[@serenap.1041]

That's not how you install ridge cap. Supposed to cut an inch back and bend with hand seamer. Everything else looks fine.

[@jacec5855]

Are you talking about the end pieces? I think your right because your already venting underneath on the roof plane sides