How to Install an AR-15 Buffer Assembly Presented by Larry Potterfield of MidwayUSA

Watch as Larry Potterfield, Founder and CEO of MidwayUSA, presents “The Buffer Assembly" in the How to Series, Gunsmithing the AR-15.
For this and other MidwayUSA videos visit the MidwayUSA Video Library:
www.midwayusa....

[@GuacIsExtra99]

This guy loctites his wedding ring to his finger 😂

[@LL-fi4rr]

As others have said you shouldn't use threadlocker on your receive extension. In fact you should actually do the opposite, grease the threads to keep it from seizing into place.

[@dgafbrapman688]

right? stake the castle nut if you dont want it backing out, dont loctite the threads so its impossible to get off in 3 years

[@foomedo]

@@dgafbrapman688 this is an a2 style rifle buffer, no castle nut or end plate.

[@dgafbrapman688]

@@foomedo really? id never want one without a castle nut. Your life depends on a drop of blue locktite with this style.

[@foomedo]

@@dgafbrapman688 no the rifle stock style keeps the buffer from rotating. You torque the buffer tube the proper spec and put locktite on the screw that attaches the stock to the buffer. Not the buffer tube/reciever extension. Basically the stock functions as your end plate

[@dgafbrapman688]

@@foomedo idk thats what catches all the energy that would otherwise be sent into your face. I want more metal behind the bolt carrier, not less. Just my personal opinion. Whenever they start trying to save weight or cost, quality ALWAYS suffers.

[@nonameinfl]

US Army and USAF Technical Manuals for the M16, M16A1, M16A2, M16A3, M16A4, and M4 all say to use molybdenum disulfide grease on the receiver extension threads (the buffer tube) before installing. Same for the barrel nut.

[@timrobinson6573]

Just because the military does it a certain way doesn't mean it's the best way. The military has to create a uniform standard for their rifles that is inexpensive, easy to procure and easy to perform during war time. The civilian market is not necessarily under any of those constraints and can do things in a better way.

[@nonameinfl]

@@timrobinson6573 Sure you can use Loctite on your AR-15 receiver extension if you want. Although, it might be harder to take off later on, if you ever have to. I choose to follow the T.O and use molybdenum disulfide grease on the receiver extension threads of my rifles. Military Technical Orders are written by subject matter experts, engineers, and weapons systems manufactures themselves. T.Os are published for pretty much anything in the military that will need maintenance during it's life cycle. This includes everything from a diesel generator, to firearms, and all military aircraft. Within the vast library of military T.Os, there are different levels of T.Os for a particular weapons system, depending the intended purpose. For example, some T.Os for the M16 are basically like a user manual and tell the end user how to clean, field strip, and inspect their issued weapon. If you are issued an M16 and upon inspection you find the buffer tube loose, you don't fix that yourself. The weapon gets turned in for repair to the unit armorer or a depot repair facility, which will then use the depot level T.O. to inspect and repair the weapon. In that T.O. it tells the armorer to clean the threads and apply molybdenum disulfide grease on the receiver extension threads. Then tighten the tube to a specified toque. Technical Orders are written by engineers and approved by the weapons system manager or owner. T.Os are designed to ensure safe, reliable operation over the life of the weapon system in as many operating environments as possible. That is good enough for me.

[@hairydogstail]

@@timrobinson6573 The manufacturer and military spent literally tens of millions of dollars working out the TDP for the Stoner rifle..Blue loctite on the buffer tube and castle nut are not included..The threads have to be a class 2 or better and molybdenum grease is required..It allows the proper torque and stops corrosion between two different types of metals.. Using blue loctite is not better lol..

[@ITriedLmao]

I literally cannot get the rifle length buffer to unscrew from the lower on my bushmaster and im beginning to suspect the previous owner watched this video lol

[@masgrey9608]

Some heat applied to the reciver thread area will help.

[@DavidJohnson-qe3mp]

Why is everyone acting like applying blue loctite is the equivalent of welding it in place?

[@_Romans10.9_]

Because people who put their first upper and lower together think that they are professional gunsmiths now

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

I personally would not do it like on this video but it’s not as much of a problem on an A2 type tube as it is on a telestock tube. Reason being, most new people would see this and think that Loctite would be ok to use on a castle nut. This is bad because (again speaking strictly about a tube for a telestock here) you can Bond the castle nut to the tube enough to where they will spin as a unit upon removal and this will cause the threads of the tube to be gouged by the embossment in the receiver end plate.

[@seanoneil277]

Because thanks to YT and the relative ease of black rifle assembly, LOTS of people with no mechanical aptitude have built a black rifle by following some bozo on YT, and now they think they know everything there is to know about black rifles, gunsmithing, armoring, threaded fasteners, and curing liquid anti-vibration thread compounds. You notice not a single one of them can point to an instance where "blue" (or 242) Loctite ever has caused the damage they swear will happen? Yeah, me too. Because I know mechanics and I know 242 Loctite and have been using it since the 1970s. It's bizarre, the total lack of humility in this "built a black rifle, now I'm a master of mechanics" attitude on display here.

[@seanoneil277]

@@rifleshooterchannel208 Loctite 242 does not "bond" anything. You could, if you chose to do so, an experiment in which you first try 242 Loctite on your castle nut, and take it to the range for a good extended session of multiple fire strings, to ensure lots of vibration. See if it holds. Staking is tradition, but I'm absolutely sure you can find various thread locking compounds like 242 in use in situations more stressed than an AR castle nut, vibration-wise. Staking not only is tradition, but it's effective -- when done properly. I think I'd rather see a home armorer who doesn't know tools, fasteners, assembly decide to use 242 on the castle nut, rather than a botched, ineffective attempt at staking. In any case, 242 would not be difficult to break loose on a buffer tube/lower situation -- unless there's some peculiarity about that threaded joint that makes it totally unlike other similar thread pitch & similar diameter threaded joins.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

@@seanoneil277 _Bond:_ “a connection between two surfaces or objects that have been joined together, especially by means of an adhesive substance, heat, or pressure.” If the castle nut and receiver extension spin as a single piece, they are functionally bonded. 242 is perfectly fine and absolutely will not vibrate loose, it’s what I first used when assembling my first rifle. The downside of it is what I previously mentioned in my above comment.

[@jesus2299]

Worst advise. DONT DO ANYTHING THEY SAID. DONT USE LOCTITE AND DONT ADD GREASE TO ANY OF THOSE PARTS

[@matthewlang777]

Hey, I know this is an old comment but I'm trying to build an AR for the first time with no guidance.Ive heard every combination of assembly on the buffer tube do you know where I can find an accurate assembly?

[@DGKboy27]

@@matthewlang777 vltor A5 system

[@thekingisdead6411]

@@matthewlang777 late to the party, but the A5 system is good to go.

[@_Romans10.9_]

Grease will help against corrosion and moisture, loctite helps secure it in place if you don’t want to stake it. Loctite also protects against rust and corrosion.

[@thekingisdead6411]

@@_Romans10.9_ until you’re taking a cutting wheel to it because some idiot thought red loctite belongs on their castle nut.

[@thomasrussell7135]

I would go with SOTAR with not thread locking the Buffer tube but greasing the threads and Tourqinge the assembly

[@jstud999]

DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON THE BUFFER THREADS! In fact you should do the exact opposite and use some aeroshell ms33/ 64 grease to stop it from seizing up

[@timrobinson6573]

You didnt say why. So, why?

[@jstud999]

@@timrobinson6573 follow the tdp. It calls for aeroshell grease not locktite. Literally the exact opposite. I did explain why as you don’t want your buffer glued in place.

[@Fister_of_Muppets]

Debatable whether or not you should ever use Loctite on the tube. But if you do, skip using the 242 and use 243 instead. The holding strength is the same, but unlike 242, 243 is significantly more oil resistant. Since you slathered a ton of grease all over, that may be a consideration.

[@user-oy9zy4ds9m]

Stake and torque. Do not use loctite

[@ItchyPilauBoto]

🤦🏽‍♂️ All you guys talking about castle nuts are wrong! These are rifle buffers for full stocks like you see on M16s.. Castle nuts go on carbine buffers with adjustable stocks only. I wouldnt use locktite either though, according to my armorers manual it says to torque it to 35-39 lbs.

[@marknorwood7521]

He clearly said "AR15"

[@DeoVolente_VayaConDios]

From the manufacturer's website: Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242 is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing. Prevents rusting of threads Can be removed with hand tools Prevents loosening of metal fasteners caused by vibrations Protects threads Medium strength Locks threads

[@piperp9535]

Why in hell would you use locktite on a buffer tube when the castle nut is what keeps the tube in place. Use grease as stated earlier, and properly stake the castle nut.

[@DeoVolente_VayaConDios]

@@piperp9535 that's a fair question, but how would a castle nut keep an A2 buffer tube in place?

[@piperp9535]

@@DeoVolente_VayaConDios The design of that part of an AR-15 hasn't changed since the fielding of the M16 has it? And no Army Armorer was ever instructed to use anything but weapons grease on it and the same is true today. No soldier's buffer tube has ever backed out of alignment when the castle nut is properly staked. But I'll allow some reasonable leeway, the gentleman in the video said the using Locktite was according to Manufacturer's Guidance ... My question is, which manufacturer? I'll understand if you can't speak for him.

[@piperp9535]

@johnrabenius you are correct, it's been so long since I've messed with a fixed stock I didn't even consider it. ty

[@hamie7624]

@@piperp9535 Rifle buffer tubes don't have a castle nut...

[@gonerydin4225]

To all the Loctite nazis in the comments, there is no means to stake the A2 style buffer tube that Larry is working with. There is no castle nut and no end plate. A small bit of Loctite may be in order here.

[@theherald3117]

Would have been helpful if Larry would have explained that. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20 I guess

[@LL-fi4rr]

An A2 buttstock can’t be untwisted because a small nub under the tube prevents any rotation. It’s also screwed into place with a screw that uses threadlocker to further prevent it from rotating loose. One option potentially seizes a screw, the other option potentially destroys the receiver.

[@hairydogstail]

@@LL-fi4rr Blue loctite on a rifle buffer tube will not destroy the lower receiver LOL, but it is also unnecessary on the rifle length buffer tube. Aeroshell grease is what should be applied, not blue loctite...

[@absbread]

If you decide to use loctite, I would absolutely not apply it to the threads of the lower, and only to the tube where the threads will end up pairing when fully screwed in. Otherwise, if you use even the slightest amount too much, screwing the buffer tube in will smear the loctite on the exposed threads as well as potentially between the retention pin/spring and the lower, locking it in place. It's a real nightmare to remove when it gets stuck in either the up or especially down positions.

[@sohara08]

Thanks for fully explaining why, lots of comments just say do not do it.

[@s0nnyburnett]

little bit of heat will help that

[@randywalentoski551]

I watched your full video's before building my 1st AR. Lots of good info. Thanks

[@mrpotat680]

Hope you didn't use loctite cuz it weakens the threading.

[@RideForLifeCR250R]

Wombat

[@_Romans10.9_]

@@mrpotat680 no it doesn't, it actually protects from corrosion.

[@mrpotat680]

@@_Romans10.9_ Red does blue doesn't

[@patriotgunner]

No aeroshell protects from corrosion and prevents it from seizing up. Loctite is NOT what you want on your receiver extension threads.

[@ozzmann3217]

Always used aero shell grease on tube and an end plate … kind of two major missing components here as there was no safety selector installed which is half the battle not messing up the spring while threading the bigger in, and you don’t want to loctite your buffer you want to stake it to your end plate and castle nut aluminum threads don’t need loctite they need an anti seize.. but what do I know

[@maruzura3658]

So funny how people don't understand that rifle length buffer tubes exist.

[@timrobinson6573]

You dont know a lot. This is a rifle length buffer tube not a carbine length. There is no end plate or castle nut on the rifle so there is nothing to stake.

[@JDL_2020]

Most of you need to pay attention to the video and the parts used. Look up A2 buffer kits. Larry is a Master Gunsmith. I would rather have some debris collect in my grease and have to clean it once in a while rather than the parts wearing out. Slip 2000 on the buffer/spring and not so much grease in the tube is what I prefer.

[@eddiecabot8886]

Nobody ask u

[@---td4ff]

I dont thing people are concerned about the use of grease (i thought i was special for greasing everything lmao) but the use of loctite on areas not meant to be fixed in place until the end of time.

[@_Romans10.9_]

Yup, most people on the comments don't know that blue loctite is perfect for these applications because blue loctite is not permanent compared to red loctite.

[@DavidJohnson-qe3mp]

@@---td4ff I guess its a good thing blue loctite isn't meant to hold things until the end of time.

[@---td4ff]

@@DavidJohnson-qe3mp but yes your right its not a world ending issue just a slight headache sorry for my extreme response to that lol

[@789295]

I would actually use the green loctite if any. It does the job and is easier to take apart if and when you decide to build that lower into something else when you get tired of it.

[@bf4chode2]

Gotta watch out by saying “green”. If I remember right loctite makes 3 different versions of green and I know one is an actual gasket or sealant.

[@toynazi]

DO NOT use loctite on a buffer tube!! I respect this guy but the info in this video is plain WRONG.

[@pyaeger911]

Never use loctite on a buffer tube u dip sh*t

[@spartan1010101]

@@pyaeger911 why are you calling him a dipshit, he's literally saying the same thing as you

[@_Romans10.9_]

You’ll be fine with blue loctite, it wont damage a thing

[@scottkelly7051]

Loctite will do absolutely no good. It's also pointless to use thread locker on gas block screws and muzzle devices. The heat in those two areas simply turn it to powder. Rockset is the choice if you want to use something (I don't on either part). Rockset is heat resistant but can be taken apart easily with tools.

[@_Romans10.9_]

@@scottkelly7051 we are talking about the buffer tube here buddy.

[@PistonDrivenGun]

Looking at my unassembled lower it looks that simple (other than I have a carbine buffer), thanks for confirming my suspicions.

[@tommyholt3465]

Clear, concise, no attitudes or politics. Well done!

[@christiansantiago3007]

Normally Mr. Potterfield gives great advice and instruction. This one is a no go for me. As others have stated a little lube and proper torque is all that is needed.

[@Wraith_of_Storm]

So it should be as simple as pushing the retainer down, taking out the buffer and spring, and replacing it, if I want to upgrade my AR? Gotcha.

[@navajorezathlete1202]

I use high temp anti seize

[@azerjinn9160]

Are we just gonna drop the take down pin to save weight?

[@jimyeats]

Its a rifle extension tube. You add the fixed stock and the takedown pin spring after.

[@NorthwoodsShooter]

Holy Grease!!!

[@josealejo6210]

2:07-2:12 I like the way you slide that finger in...

[@jonnybravo420]

To the people watching this video, this is NOT where you use loctite!

[@ronalexander4955]

This is the first time I’ve seen grease applied to the buffer assy.

[@xXshadow187Xx]

@@ronalexander4955 usually buffer assembly kits come greased already

[@slipknnnot]

Yea if you get loctite on the retainer it's game over you will never get it out and it's going to be jammed causing to chew into the buffer surface

[@montanaplease]

He must have used locktight on that takedown spring and pre installed it before the video 😂

[@FlymoreOften]

I feel like he skipped the part about the "retainer spring for the takedown?" Slides in the back and held in by a plate compressed by the buffer tube?

[@jimyeats]

This is a rifle extension tube. The takedown pin spring goes in after when you put on the fixed stock. They only had to add the endplate we typically see today when they switched to a adjustable position carbine extension tube.

[@victorchin752]

What do you recommend for reverse assembly if buffer tube is hard to twist off? Liquid wrench?

[@johnmalt9921]

Victor Chin - Use a strap clamp, or try heating it up with a heat gun. Be careful of hot parts.

[@motomime6148]

A time machine

[@Iceflame38]

Kroil

[@Castellan_Chris]

Loctite Blue? Hah! I use 1 shot glass of Gorilla Glue

[@Jaxdaddy8617]

great video, also the most messy video i've seen for this install

[@RustyShacklefardd]

Threadlocker and grease lmai

[@naturalstatepoolandspallc338]

what about that plate that goes on first that holds the detent for the rear takedown pin?

[@Dunnskiy]

In this video it’s showing a rifle length buffer tube, an endplate and castle nut are used on carbine length buffer system. Don’t use loctite on the tube though

[@johnmccain3762]

Hahahahaha!

[@user-kn4xw9ww8y]

Just put lower in vice with real avid mag thing and tighten it up real good

[@---td4ff]

Loctite on an a2 buffer? A stock is installed on the tube which it secured by a screw mating the sock to the receiver. This is not only overkill its requiring requiring a gunsmith or a blowtorch to remove that tube. Bad info man.

[@collinjones311]

There are some things the hands of a gunsmith cannot fix any better than someone who is competent enough to remove and put on their own buffer tube. This is one of them. Either way you got a 50/50 shot of ending up with stripped threads and or a bent receiver. Loctite on a buffer tube is a terrible idea. Stake your castle nut and if you want to ensure the buffer tube wont rotate, use a POF buffer tube that has a notch cut in it to trap the buffer detent and prevents the tube from rotating.

[@_Romans10.9_]

You don’t need a blowtorch for blue loctite, that’s the red loctite.

[@seanoneil277]

Blowtorch for 242? You're that guy holding a hammer, looking around the room, and everything to you looks like a nail.

[@---td4ff]

@@seanoneil277 isn't it lmao but blowtorch is a bit extreme I should've said heat gun. Sad story my dumbass when I first started piecing together ar15s was afraid to dimple a barrel so I put blue loctite on my set screws. Shot it a bunch over the year and decided to dimple. That bitch was stuck stuck 🤣 i really had to break out a hammer and fucked it uo pretty good getting it off. I really wish I had a heatgun then. But yah your right blow torch is extremely excessive for blue lol

[@seanoneil277]

@@---td4ff You probably used blue container but not 242. It's possible to get that, or was during the past 10-15 yrs, depending on what size you bought. I'd bet every Loctite bad experience (can't break free w/ hand tools) is wrong Loctite for the situation. They make a lot of thread & bearing/sleeve retainer compounds!

[@georgearevalo4778]

So you asked me to use degreaser on the ar I just painted and spent two weeks letting dry.....thanks a lot for making my life easier man! Looking forward to doing it all over again!!!!

[@KimballPrecision]

You know you could put degreaser on a rag and wipe the threads right?

[@Sneedmeister]

@@KimballPrecision its layers of stupid on top of stupid

[@seanoneil277]

Yeah, how dare Larry Potterfield not guess that George Arevalo would come along and expect a video custom-tailored to George Arevalo's particular lower and its "custom paint job." Safe queens and "collectors" are such gomers.

[@treyknight7282]

I'm cringing just watching this!

[@budseltz340]

Omg yes. Loctite on the buffer tube! Wtf!

[@seanoneil277]

Good for you, announcing your cringe. Bet you don't realize what it says about you.

[@jstud999]

Bro me too man. Loctite on the buffer tube?!? How about some aeroshell 33 ms grease instead

[@jackieeastom8758]

I’m more appalled by the lube on the buffer and tube! Dirt magnet 🧲

[@jstud999]

@@jackieeastom8758 not at all. ARs like to be ran wet. The people who say too much lube attracts dirt are just over paranoid about the topic. I keep my AR’s dripping wet and keep them clean.

[@NebulousCat]

Are you sure you should lube the buffer and spring? It seems like it would just attract grit over time.

[@larrythorn4715]

Put a few small drops of oil on a clean cloth, and wipe down the buffer and the spring with it. But don't soak it in oil and for the love of god no grease! As needed, depending on how much you shoot, repeat the process to get any dirt that accumulated off the parts.

[@MavHunter20XX]

Where is the the dirt gonna come from? Your AR-15 rifle is so tight it should never see any "grit" back there. As for carbon, carbon is actually used as a lubricant; look up graphite lubricant.

[@JohnDoe-zl6qw]

@@MavHunter20XX Except that graphite lubricant and carbon residue from burning powder aren't chemically identical. They both contain carbon, but that's where the similarity ends. Graphite is a crystalline form of carbon and its most stable form; it's not going to react chemically as readily as the "free" carbon resulting from burnt powder residue. That second form of carbon has two problems associated with it. First, it can build up deposits which - left uncleaned - can form mechanical obstructions to operating parts. Secondly, it's hydrophilic; from the Greek, hydro = water and phillic = loves. What this means is those carbon deposits attract and absorb water vapor molecules floating in the air. They trap that moisture next to the metal of the gun, promoting rust of any iron-bearing parts. Will this happen overnight? No. But it will happen if left unchecked over a sufficient amount of time and depending on how humid an area you live in. Barrels may get cleaned regularly, but how often do people clean their buffer and buffer spring? So it's less about grit getting into the parts and more about carbon from burnt powder residue. Now with regard to greasing the buffer and spring, is it necessary? Depends. It could be argued a lubed surface will aid in easily wiping the carbon from the parts; that's been my experience, anyway. It could also be argued it promotes trapping the carbon by giving it something to stick to. Personally I practice in the desert under very dry conditions but with a lot of ultra fine grit blown by the wind. It gets into everything. Consequently, I run relatively dry or very, very lightly lubed. Someone living down in Florida with high humidity might want to run with heavier lube to counteract the moisture. Someone in Northern climates in the Winter might want to use a lighter grease so it's not hardened by the cold. All depends on situation.

[@_Romans10.9_]

As long as you use whit lithium grease you will be good. It prevents moisture and corrosion. You should be cleaning your weapon after each use anyway.

[@calsacfab2]

Loctite on the buffer threads could go into the buffer retainer and then good luck.

[@seanoneil277]

Are you serious?

[@peeeoii2738]

If you use a dab no bro no it won’t don’t put a shot glass full of loctite on it

[@littlerascals6529]

Whatever you guys do don’t put loctite on buffer tube,smh

[@cullenmcbride1144]

Yeah put JB weld on it instead

[@Slipgatex]

@@cullenmcbride1144 no, just actually weld it.

[@billyfreeman5803]

I take it you hurt don't stake your castle nuts either, huh?

[@_Romans10.9_]

Tell me, why wouldn't you do it? Because blue picture is actually good for the buffer tube.

[@adamdenn8984]

No retainer no castle nut or takedown detention or spring? Your takedown pin is gunna fall right out and your buffer tube will be locked up tight to the buffer retainer 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@tylerlondon5052]

I can't believe this video hasn't been deleted. DO NOT ever use locktite on a buffer tube.

[@timrobinson6573]

Why? I've seen a bunch of people say this but no one explains why.

[@jimyeats]

@@timrobinson6573 No actual reason why not to. People just say “Don’t!” because the mil-spec way is aeroshell grease and specific torque spec. You are going to do no harm to the large aluminum threads by putting a gentle dab of loctite. Blue loctite is perfectly safe on aluminum.

[@bf4chode2]

This is wrong on all fronts. I’m not trying to be be demeaning here, but think about loctite does. It fills in the gap between threads to essentially seal them together. The only reason why you can get it apart is because while loctite has metallic compounds, it isn’t actual metal itself. Also, I’m not going to quote the website here because you won’t see it unless you read the extended PDF, but you should never use blue loctite on aluminum. It has corrosive properties to aluminum. You need to use purple loctite if anything. And yes the anodizing will prevent the aluminum from corroding, except when you don’t have matching thread classes between your buffer tube and lower receiver and the anodizing gets stripped away between the coarse vs fine thread face off, thus exposing the aluminum and allowing the corrosive blue loctite to make contact with the bare aluminum. Last point, I have seen threads stripped with loctite being present. While the sole reason couldn’t be put on loctite, because the castle nut could have been over torqued thus potentially aiding to the stripped threads, I have never seen over torqued castle nut threads strip when using grease.

[@philpiecharts485]

Thank you sir you made this process very easy to understand!

[@bolriconyc3795]

I'm pretty sure this an M5 rifle buffer tube install with no castle nut. There is no staking of any castle nut.

[@ctskidoo]

I would definitely not use loctite

[@erikluca5141]

Never use thread locker on a buffer tube, ever!

[@denpabacon8501]

Better tell that to Knight's Armament then since they must be doing it wrong according to rando on the internet.

[@highspeed_hula1938]

@@denpabacon8501 at no point in time should any loctite ever be used on your rifle.

[@denpabacon8501]

@@highspeed_hula1938 despite the fact I can barely read your posted I've changed my mind on this topic and agree with you. Thread lock should only be used on screws like the gas block, but even then it's iffy. Staking should be used instead of loctite.

[@highspeed_hula1938]

@@denpabacon8501 corrected it. Auto correct got me good there. Haha.

[@FrankieJames7]

@@highspeed_hula1938 what a derp thing to say. Loctite is safe to use. Bolts break cause of damage and rust, not cause super glue locktite lmao. Locktite bolts aren't super hard to take off either, they are just hard enough to avoid backing out under normal operating conditions

[@EgoFiveFiveSix]

Blue loctite is just fine on rifle buffer tubes.

[@hairydogstail]

No its not lol..

[@EgoFiveFiveSix]

@@hairydogstail sure it is.

[@hairydogstail]

@@EgoFiveFiveSix Said no trained armorer..

[@EgoFiveFiveSix]

@@hairydogstail which you are not. It won’t hurt anything.

[@hairydogstail]

@@EgoFiveFiveSix Sorry Charlie, I am a certified Colt Armorer and loctite is not part of installing the receiver extension.. Mil spec requires a minimum of class two threads for the receiver, receiver extension and (castle nut if it is not a rifle length extension)..If the threads do not combine to a class two, then replace the rejected part..For people of limited means, use VC3..It works much better on receiver extension threads that are out of spec.. Blue loctite is not a part of it..

[@EDKguy]

Watch for Michelle's profile to rise

[@eprofessio]

Buffer tubes are annoying.

[@MF_UNDERTOW]

I know two gunsmiths that both say not to grease the buffer spring or buffer. Instead, use a sparing amount of a dry spray lube so that it doesn’t attract carbon and gunk everything up. This guy put so much grease on that spring, good lord.

[@tommyt7566]

Unless you play in dirt everyday this is NOT the issue or the case.

[@FishyBoi1337]

Obviously not putting loctite on it, but this did help me get my tube back together!

[@timrobinson6573]

Why obviously? Can you explain why??

[@MrSpyro1994]

Pretty easy to tell that the people telling you not to use blue loctite have never picked up a hand tool in their lives.

[@motomime6148]

Yeah no. Loctite is not necessary or good for this specific application....

[@kono8172]

@@motomime6148 You saying that is just telling everyone else that reads it that you have absolutely no clue what you're talking about. You do understand there's a massive difference between blue and red loctite?

[@motomime6148]

@@kono8172 Who said anything about red loctite??? No one. Loctite is NOT needed for rifle length or carbine length buffer tube. Oil on the threads, and proper torque values are superior. Back off and quit parroting unproven statements.

[@kono8172]

@@motomime6148 🤡

[@motomime6148]

@@kono8172 unable to respond...

[@coriac77]

I’m screwed. Applied the loctite and now need to remove the tube.

[@paulsmith5611]

Did you remove the tube? If you used blue threadlocker then you are NOT screwed. Blue is medium strength and used on machines and cars all the time. It only prevents parts from coming loose due to vibration it does not prevent parts from being removed with tools. Get a friend to give you a hand if you can and a well mounted vise and the nut should come loose without too much trouble.

[@ryanthede4689]

Loctite on the threads is a horrible idea

[@michaelli8012]

Ryan Thede that’s right man!!! Now I can’t get my buffer tube off! Is there anyway to remove the buffer tube?

[@TheWatchFrogs]

@@michaelli8012 if you used the blue locktight, use a heat gun for about 3-4 minutes on the spot where the loctight is, it'll loosen it up enough for you to remove the tube finally.

[@_Romans10.9_]

No its not

[@JimyoVibration]

I'm guessing Larry considered it's probably better that the novice do it this way. I doubt he does this with his guns.

[@lemmingsfly]

RED thread lock on your buffer tube dude really?

[@Quibbler-dm8hl]

Put the Loctite down and walk away

[@minfilipino]

loctite! LMAO

[@johnmccain3762]

AR-15 is not exclusively a carbine… I honestly did not know how many people did not know that… I have never seen anyone ever put grease in the buffer tube ever. I use CLP but maybe I should try some of this new fangled silicon grease that doesn’t attract dirt or dust I keep hearing about.

[@TerminalM193]

If you use a decent buffer and spring, I prefer either sprinco of geissele super 42, then you don't need grease for all of that. Lightly soak a rag with a good dedicated lubricant and then generously take the tag to the buffer and buffer spring and then install. I take mine out and clean it maybe every 500 rounds and whatever is on it is really light and wipes right off.... Take this opinion or leave it.... CLP is a gimmick product in my opinion. It's cleaning, lubing and protecting properties all suck when compared to a reputable, dedicated solvent & lubricant. A great solvent is wilson combats carbon cleaner. It's just as strong as hoppes but has practically zero smell and far less harsh chemicals allowing it to not hurt any kind of polymer / plastic or wood and doesn't leave behind any kind of mess like clp. Using a GOOD dedicated lubricant will clean up, lubricate AND protect FAR better than any CLP on the market. Some of my favorites are sprincos machine gunners lube, geissele go juice & grease, anything from Wilson combat OR in my opinion the best on the market Weaponshield. The dedicated lubricant will stay around far longer and won't burn off, is far superior in both hot / cold climates and will protect your firearm better than any clp wishes it could.... CLP is a gimmick product that mostly takes advantage of newer shooters thinking that's all they need. Most of it is insanely overpriced too. The only good clp I've ever come across is Clenzoil. If I was forced to use clp then that's what I would pick.

[@nobodynoone2500]

@@TerminalM193 Yeah, I always got the Wash/wax, shampoo+conditionar vibe from it, where it can do it all, but worse than the actual products designed for a purpose. However I totally get having CLP if deployed so as not to haul around more stuff.

[@jetjaguarXP]

Why is this video still up? So many stupid recommendations that make zero sense. Grease on the Buffer? Grease?! Talk about a carbon magnet... You'll never get yer tube clean again...

[@culoprieto535]

Not a fan of adding Loctite on the buffer tube, it freezes and is hard to pull out risking to damage the threads.😵😵

[@jeremiahcherry5283]

Why would you be screwing and unscrewing your buffer tube? Staking is the same premise

[@maruzura3658]

Based Larry leaves this video up because it's actually a lowkey dab on chuds who have never seen a rifle length buffer tube before.

[@MrKen11589]

I can't find loctite 242, I was able to find 243. Does it matter?

[@erichironsson8592]

Don't motherf*cking loctite the buffer tube!

[@darklight4815]

idk about that loctite though

[@oxencott3n175]

"Hi I'm Larry Porterfield with Midway USA and....I shouldn't have made this video"

[@C.C_23]

Grease is not a good idea if its gonna be out in the bush especially desert

[@BobbySMiles]

That white grease is trash . I used for awhile on my Sig Sauer P229 and after a couple of applications I started seeing a brown residue on my internals . It was rust . That grease is corrosive to metal . I just stick to oil from now on .

[@motomime6148]

Corrosive to “metal”? Cmon now dude at least be somewhat specific with your terms....

[@americanmilitiaman88]

Aluminum to aluminum will not seize up. This is a rifle length buffer tube so the install will be different.

[@unlimtedbosss]

This man a maniac. Just don’t watch this video all together.

[@dingo5208]

That's not right! Any of it! What happened Larry? Noooooo!

[@xp_pk]

He should have explained the huge difference in assembly practices when you don't have a castle nut! 99.99% of viewers just aren't building that kind of rifle, but he titled the video in such a misleading way.

[@ChrisG1392]

I haven't seen that much lube in a tube since I got banned from Pizza Hut

[@dtom-edc2046]

Where did this guy learn this? Lol

[@jujujameson]

DO NOT USE LOCTITE FOR A2 BUFFERS. USE ANTI SIEZE. ONLY USE LOCTITE ON THE SCREW THAT HOLDS THE STOCK.

[@TerminalM193]

Are you talking about the actual male end of the buffer tube itself or do you mean the castlenut that keeps everything timed and tight?

[@jujujameson]

@@TerminalM193 On an A2 or rifle length buffer tube, there's no castle nut, it just screws directly into the upper receive., it also has a lug on the back to tighten it with an armorer's wrench. I've seen and read about plenty of people not being able to remove their buffer tubes afterward and having to ruin the tube to get it off

[@ZPOLLAK]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using BLUE loctite. Do NOT use red. Also, idk about needing all that grease on the buffer / spring...

[@PumpkinKingXXIII]

Ok so it has a buffer retainer and a castle nut that’s supposed to be staked and “we need lock tight”. Nope I’ll pass on that

[@robblayton]

Theres no castle nut.

[@maruzura3658]

I bet your brain is really smooth. Like... no folds at all. Ideas can't stick no matter how hard they try!

[@putinimpotent2044]

Castle nut? Staking the castle nut? Sling adaptor end plate?

[@ZeeCaptainRon]

why must there be annoying music with an instructional video?

[@chadhaire1711]

TOTLLKY WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Jacob-gq7id]

Sorry, I don't trust videos in 720p

[@djknucklez1]

NEVER USE LOCTITE!

[@_Romans10.9_]

Yes, listen to some rando in the comment section rather than a professional gunsmith.

[@denpabacon8501]

Everyone tweaking out about the blue loctite when KA uses it on their rifles.... KZbin comments are about as useful as the local fudd "expert", everyone has an opinion but it may not be right....

[@whatfreedom7]

Is there a difference in milspec and commercial spec buffer and spring? I need a heavy buffer but the one I found cheap is a AR stoner which is labeled milspec and my carbine is all commercial spec.

[@whatfreedom7]

Thanks. Yeah I knew about the buffer length part just not the diameter. That’s my plan is to dump the com spc and just put a mil spec tube and everything then I can dump my junk Tapco stuff and get something better while I’m at it.

[@556suppressor]

Where is takedown detent and spring in this video ? Does the buffer tube hold them in ?

[@jimyeats]

This is a rifle tube. Detent and spring get added after when you slip the fixed stock on.

[@2wheeleddemon999]

WOW.

[@timrobinson6573]

You feel that way because you are mindless.

[@AJ13B]

🤯🤔🤯 I watched the video because of the thumbnail 🤡😒🤡

[@larrythorn4715]

Locktite on the buffer tube is a good idea. Oil or grease on the retainer and spring, also good idea. Greasing the spring and buffer probably not a good idea...

[@JohnBlaze505]

No its not.

[@mcotherman5957]

@@JohnBlaze505 There are different formulations of "Loctite." Blue Loctite is MADE for applications that will require it to be taken apart. You can use it on PLASTIC! It's not going to hurt aluminum threads.

[@poolee77]

@@mcotherman5957 stake your castle nut. Locktite is just bubba-ing it. Actually this whole video is.

[@toddrolland106]

@@poolee77 its good idea to put loctite or oil or something on most any threads. ill put loctite on mine

[@850spirates3]

SemperFiMac77 did you not pay attention in class? Where is the castle but in this video??? He is using a fixed rifle length receiver extension. No castle on that application. Blue loctite is just fine for this job. Remember this man has been gunsmith’ing before you were even a twinkle in your mommy’s eye.

[@jeremiahcherry5283]

A lot a pseudo “experts” in this comment section. 😂

[@seanoneil277]

Larry Potterfield gets slagged by mall ninjas and teenaged wannabe armorers, and by a few motor pool guys who shot an AR about 250 rounds worth, and now think they are Master Gunsmiths thanks to motor pool duty. The arrogance with which these critics offer complete ignorance would be fine dark humor -- if it wasn't such a sad comment on 21st C cultural norms. Blue 242 Loctite is fine and does NOT create a permanent weld. If you used the WRONG Loctite product on your AR, and thereby hosed yourself, that was YOUR problem & not Mr Potterfield's advice -- he used 242.

[@Tula1940_LB]

Is Larry back or is this old footage?

[@videodistro]

Logan Barnette old, cut up to pieces. this is within KZbin guidelines. The old complete video of the build was not within their "standards". These are short gunsmithing videos not a "gun build". :)

[@Tula1940_LB]

videodistro KZbin really did go Red ;)

[@AtlasJotun]

This is an excellent video, especially for all the 'Loctite?! Just stake your castle nut smh' type of comments it's generating. Much obliged, Larry!

[@collinjones311]

Those comments are not wrong

[@_Romans10.9_]

@@collinjones311 yes they are

[@rabakomaba4562]

There are many similar projects in Woodglut's plans.

[@NONAME-vl5dn]

Because of this video I had to pay a gunsmith $40 an hour to remove my buffer tube to hopefully salvage the lower. Save your money use an anti seizing solution on the threads

[@_Romans10.9_]

That's b cause you did not know what you were doing.

[@NONAME-vl5dn]

@@_Romans10.9_ that’s why I was watching the video in the first place. Thanks for your 3 foot insight it really is enlightening

[@_Romans10.9_]

@@NONAME-vl5dn so you dont know what you are doing yet you were giving advice telling people what to do. Save your self while you still can from the embarrassment that can be unleashed on you.

[@NONAME-vl5dn]

@@_Romans10.9_ I know more than I did a year ago I still don’t think locktite is a good idea. But hey man it’s your recoil assembly do what you want on yours 🤣

[@C_oprator89]

I'm Larry Porterfield and I should take this video down

[@YTIsRanByFeds]

This is why you DON’T listen to fudds

[@lanceschul]

Any torque on the castle nut?

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

38-42 *foot* pounds

[@lanceschul]

@@rifleshooterchannel208 inch pounds if it’s an AR pistol with that style buffer I am told.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

@@lanceschul I will admit I erroneously put “inch pounds” in my comment because I was installing scope rings earlier and had “inch pounds” on my brain haha. But for a castle nut you absolutely want to use foot pounds.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

@@LegionPrime Well a rifle extension doesn’t have a castle nut so it would make sense there is no torque value for installing the M4 castle nut onto an A2 stock tube.

[@Dr.Randy.Butternubs]

I hate buffer tubes

[@gastondraco5906]

Totally Unnecessary all you need is a pws ratcheting castlenut/endplate set ..come on man this is 2022 not not 1962 !!!!!! 😂