HOW TO Install DCC and Sound into an Athearn Blue Box SD40-2 (ESU LokSound 5 + DecoderBuddy)

[@victorw3378]

Finally I found a video that shows how to do this from start to finish, and not just one that says oh this one doesn't include sound or whatever. You show us how to do the whole thing step by step, very clear, well done! thank you

[@TolgaEastCoast]

@@victorw3378 thank you! These remarks mean a lot to me! Really glad that you found this tutorial helpful.

[@mikemiskiman4743]

I’m so happy I ran across your site I’m getting back into Model railroading after about 40 years I’m in my mid 60s I have a pile of Athens blue box Sd 40s that was wondering how to convert Thanks for making it look so easy I’ll definitely watching this video a couple of times thanks again

[@rickdee67]

Take a low flame to the end of the wire to soften up the insulation before you strip it, and the insulation just falls off, you won’t risk breaking the conductor since it’s so fine and there are so few. Excellent video. This is the first video on DCC that I’ve watched that is given me the confidence that I can do this and I have several blue boxes I would like to do it too. Subscribed.

[@nicksanto882]

Tolga, Thank You very much for the great instructional video! Fine installation! I do really like the Athearn Blue Box locomotives. Thanks also for the shout out of the Decoder Buddy!!! I enjoyed!!!

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Thanks Nick for the comment! The Buddy is absolutely perfect for this project, and by some miracle, fits perfectly down the middle!

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

Hey, Very well done with the install!!! I like the step-by-step and so far is one of the more comprehensive how-to videos I have seen on a DCC install! Great Job!

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Thanks Dave! I'm really glad to help.

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

05:35 And yes, the motor mounts will go back in, I have removed and reinstalled them multiple times, they just fit a little loose. But the newer mounts are a better, more secure way to mount the motor.

[@tonybasile58]

Great video !!!! I learned a lot watching your installation

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

09:00 I always use a dremel and grind off the nubs from the lower motor contact to ensure they are smooth. I have had a motor vibrate thru the kapton tape and short out to the frame, frying the decoder before. always file down that prong, or dremel it to smooth it out.

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Thanks for the tip. I did some more filing off camera.

[@Cowboy_Steve]

Nicely done! I'm just getting started in the hobby. Bought some older engines online to practice converting to DCC. I'm going with the Decoder Buddy as well, so this was great to follow along. Thanks for sharing - very useful information 🤠

[@TolgaEastCoast]

My pleasure! Decoder Buddy is great for separately wiring LEDs in a way that if you're working on the unit, they don't need to be tethered at all times. Best of luck with your projects

[@keithaleo3712]

This is an excellent video and extremely helpful. Thank you for posting. I’m about to convert an Athern FEC GP40 to DC and this is my GO TO video!

[@heckingaxle6618]

why to dc?

[@billmorgan6110]

Correction: Sorry The speakers should connected in series. SoundTraxx that sells sugar cube speakers (Video) in series.

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Series is nice for safety. The ESU LokSound V5 can handle 2 8-ohm resistors in parallel as well. This is very likely what is akin to the proprietary install in this video.

[@jimjohnston7688]

very nice job. lots of helpful information

[@enriqueaguilar4892]

That was a great job transforming a blue box Athearn locomotive to DCC n Sound technology I like that idea you should try to open a train shop and take pictures of before DCC n Sound n after DCC n Sound technology it's worth the investment

[@johnmacdonald6220]

Thanks for the instructions, well done.

[@daleroth236]

I have put the original motor mounts back by trimming the bottom poles along with double sided tape. Have used black electrical tape that works well.

[@TolgaEastCoast]

@@daleroth236 well said! I agree it can be adjusted that way too

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

02:35 This has been all kinds of customized. That's actually an early RTR frame and motor. The original Blue Box has little pips that the shell snaps into, and the motor uses bigger, fatter driveshafts, not the hex head shafts. However, the Blue Box does use the press fit motor mount, whereas the RTR uses a plastic mount that screws down to the frame. hmm...

[@johnburnett5624]

3D STL file for Athearn Bluebox motor mounts are available from 'Thingyverse' or 'Yeggi" 3D file server. I printed them on a filament printer and have used them on a number of Bluebox models; they fit perfectly.

[@sews2quilt]

Very enjoyable installation video...Can you install a stay-alive to that existing setup

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

21:09 Next thing you should do at this point is remove the axles that are in this locomotive and chuck them. Replace with ATH40028 or ATH40029, 40 or 42 inch wheelsets. The original sintered wheels that are on those BB engines pull well, but on DCC they arc horribly and pick up dirt like no other. The new wheels will not do this.

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

24:32 So that is definitely a RTR shell and RTR frame. The Blue Box shell has a weight housing underneath the dynamic brake hatch with a small lead weight. If this was a BB engine, you would have to cut that weight section out.

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Interesting! I'll take that, for sure. It might be one of the last undecs they sold in a blue box, or their way of selling an RTR undec. The weight under hatch is why a GP38-2 has its buddy further up the long hood.

[@David-yo5re]

The original motor mounting pads will go back in. I have been using Athearn Blue Box locomotives since I was a teen way back in the 80s. If you know how to remove them correctly the original motor mounts can be removed and replaced over and over again and again.

[@charlierumsfeld6626]

Did myou deal with headlights?

[@davvonmckenzie3911]

Amazing.

[@Christiane069]

About the plastic "nobs" that hold the motor unit. If you reuse them, can't you drill though them and install a screw (with a small washer if needed) to hold the plastic nobs back in place?

[@billmorgan6110]

Sugar Cube Speakers: * {8 Ohms} * (99%) of model train speakers (LS/-) and (RS/+). * Sugar Cube speakers: (LS/-) and (RS/+). * In Series.....[x2] speakers = Draws {16 Ohms} * In Parallel...[x2] speakers = Draws {4 Ohms}

[@farmerdave7965]

Just swap the brush clips. No snipping necessary.

[@heckingaxle6618]

FEC SD40-2 714

[@ShawnCalay]

Those old pads go back in....thats all i did back in the 1980s and 1990s after all you cant get the motor wet when you wash the underframe for painting.

[@markwakeley3835]

Your wrong about the motor mount pads not being reusable. I've worked on many Athearn locos and although I generally do replace the mounts with the new ones, sometime I reuse the original mount. You just have to be careful taking them off and putting them back in.