How to Install Fatfoxx TFI Module Relocation Kit

[@davidbrind5274]

Great video, thanks so much! And thanks for promoting the great small businesses that support our Fox Bodies

[@BasinMotorsports]

I remember when Ray introduced the kit 6 years ago and reading about his car. I enjoyed making the video to support Fatfoxx, but also glad he was able to help me make some content too. It was a good collaboration. Thanks for watching!

[@brentmorford5494]

Just did my '86 LX 5.0. She's all stock. Only differences compared to the video was 1) the three wires that get extended for the TFI harness do come from the driver side (as mentioned in earlier comment) and 2) of those three wires, the one they say is "orange/yellow" is in fact a "dark green/yellow" for my stock '86 (I did confirm that this matches the wiring diagram from my Haynes manual also). The other two wires that get extended were the same as described in the video and paper instructions. I mounted the TFI to the chassis brace inside the front of the passenger side fender. After a 20-ish minute test drive the car runs great. Also the TFI module and cooling fins were cool to the touch. Very happy with the results. Sincere thanks for the video. I referred to it along with the paper instructions and it all turned out great. 👏✌️

[@BasinMotorsports]

Thanks for updating the wiring colors. It will help those with similar questions. Glad it all worked out. 👍

[@johndoe-zb8bm]

Nice job on explaining everything. I appreciate it the content. 💯

[@Bobby4v]

Just started my install. I hope this helps my tfi issues i aquired upon installing the holley terminator x. Great video! Thanks for the information.

[@BasinMotorsports]

Hopefully it helps. I've had no issues since the install.

[@ferdinandcuevas8457]

Just came across this video with great content and presentation 👍. Thank You 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍

[@braddokken9191]

I have had this kit sitting on the shelf for a couple months. I have killed TFI modules before in the summer heat so definitely want to get it done this spring. I mainly wanted to see where you mounted the heat sink and how you ran the wires. Any concern about leaving the bottom of the distributor open? Thanks for making the video it has already helped!

[@BasinMotorsports]

No concern leaving the bottom of the pickup exposed. The three connection points are the only thing to consider, and you have dielectric grease to block out moisture at the connection on each wire. I have another video releasing Saturday morning showing some behind the scenes footage of my car as some of my previous work with the wire tuck didn't need to be changed. It will explain how my wires are run better than this video.

[@jeffarnold2132]

Hey, I long a good conversation last night with Ray about how modified your vehicle is compared to my all stock 86 GT. The engine compartment is quite a bit more tight and cramped compared to yours. Your video was good, but the one thing that was throwing me was right around the 5 minute mark when you’re holding all 6 wires in your hand, it looks like the 3 wires you cut are coming from your passenger side firewall, when in fact I looked at it on a bigger screen than my iPhone screen and I spotted the 3 wires hanging down and they were possibly headed back toward the drivers side (which Ray said they should come from). I watched your 23 minute video numerous times and you never said that the 3 wires actually come from the drivers side. Now that I have that straightened out, I should be able to do it. It’s going to take a couple of days, but will be worth it so I don’t keep burning up modules. I’m going to mount my heat sink and module in front by the hood latch so it gets plenty of air (need it in this Florida heat). The only thing I’ll have to work against is keeping rain from coming through the grill and getting on the bill, red, blue wire connections-I might get a small amount of liquid electrical tape to put on the plastic pieces that cover the bill, red & blue connections. It was an informative video and was well done, but if you could find a stock Foxbody and make the same video to give the VERY FEW people that still have a stock Foxbody a look at what they’re getting into.(I wished my engine compartment was as uncluttered as yours). The 1st problem is finding a stock 86 Foxbody that some teenager did wrap around a pole that’s not in the junkyard😂😂😂. I have 392k miles on mine and it’s all stock-only raced twice, never wrecked-and I bought it brand new when it had about 16 miles on it. Thanks for the video and it was a big help.

[@BasinMotorsports]

I have an '86 in the garage, but it's a V6. That might not be helpful as a stock reference. I may be able to do a later video if I find another unmodified car and decide to build another Foxbody. Glad Ray could help out. He was great to work with.

[@dajavu71]

useing a amd computer heatsink has a 12volt fan stock and will help alot with heat exstractions

[@WARD5KUSTOMZ]

I did that too. Worked great

[@ilike9s]

Canaan FatFoxx's website states KIT 423706A is for the wire crowd but you used KIT 423706 and under the passenger fender. so KIT 423706A would go infront of the radiator by the hood latch? What route would that take? Thanks

[@BasinMotorsports]

The 'A' has the 12-foot PIP harness, so the extra length allows you to route down through the fender well to the front of the radiator beam and hang it vertically. The kit I used has the side mount heat sink and the 9.6 foot harness. How to route it for a wire tuck is up to you. I did make a 2nd video for next Saturday that shows my routing and how I did mine using the kit. It loosely follows the instructions, but I have things specific for my car that others won't. That is why I made a separate video, and it will explain why pictures you may have seen don't look exactly like the kit (or it looks to jump around). The video today is specifically for Fatfoxx to use as needed for the website or any vendors (like LMR or AM) to show how to install the product.

[@jeffarnold2132]

On the video about the 523706B kit, you don’t sow anything about the 3 wires coming out of the drivers side firewall and where they connect to. Also, you have a total of 6 wires coming out of the distributor before disconnecting it. When everything is put back together, do you have going into TFI module the same 6 wires? And the 3 wires in the black wrapped wiring going from the distributor to the relocated TFI module?

[@BasinMotorsports]

The TFI wiring is the same. The harness just extends the wiring, so you can move it away from the heat. My harness routing for stock wires was completely changed when I did the wire tuck.

[@jeffarnold2132]

So when you cut the 3 loose wires by the heater hoses, you now have 6 ends to splice to somewhere, but where? I’m thinking the 3 supplied wires supplied in the kit is 3 splices, but what about the other 3 wire ends? Do you have a schematic showing the 3 wires you cut or a 2-3 minute video showing those 3 wires after they are cut?

[@BasinMotorsports]

The three loose wires are just extended (made longer) with the wiring and heat shrink from the kit. They are the pieces shown at the 5 minute mark in the video. One thing to keep in mind is that I reconfigured a lot of the routing and removed half the harness that wasn't needed. The instructions will explain what a basic car will look like, where mine may be a little confusing because of so many changes in my harness.

[@nothanks5652]

You can do this much cleaner with a trip to the junk yard, grab a ford heat sink and wiring cutting it as far back as you can from a fender mount tfi car or truck plus a tfi module from a distributor mount one. this will be your jumper harness and heat sink but instead of spade connectors you us the factory wiring connector and a gutted the tfi on the distributor side. solder the three leads with jumpers inside the gutted tfi & fill with epoxy, then replace the cover. add a shielding wire to the harness you cut if its not a factory shielded one, ground it on the heat sink and boom looks stock, just need to grind the fins off the heat sink if using a mustang style tfi.. there is so many ways to do this, cleanest is using an remote mount distibutor and rewiring for that type of tfi module with factory ford connectors.

[@dlbarrientos84]

So what do you do with the o.e. shielded wiring coming from the pcm to the the tfi harness? How will the tfi have communication with the pcm if the new harness runs from the pip directly to the tfi?

[@BasinMotorsports]

The connection from the PCM to the TFI stays the same, but you may need to lengthen the OEM wiring harness based on where you put the TFI.

[@chuckvisconage3988]

Do you know if there’s one for a 1985 SVO 2.3 turbo?

[@BasinMotorsports]

The SVO is listed on the vehicle list that the kit will work on. The website disclaimer says the wiring colors may vary slightly, but the positions on the distributor, etc. should be the same.

[@WARD5KUSTOMZ]

I'm gonna do this on my F150. I've already relocated the ignition coil to the fender.

[@BasinMotorsports]

Excellent!

[@WARD5KUSTOMZ]

One of the project vehicles I have I moved it inside the cab under the dash. Used a heat sink from a 95 Aerostar. My brother gave me a 12v fan from a computer. Mounted it to the top. Actually gained a little hp

[@beep_beep_beep]

At what temperature does a icm fail?

[@BasinMotorsports]

Above 125C (257F) is what I could find.

[@2thebestsport839]

Why do you have a (drain) only in one side? Is it to drain magnetic field or is it a grounding?

[@BasinMotorsports]

I don't understand your question.

[@2thebestsport839]

@@BasinMotorsports the wire that is grounded at the distributor. I figured is to drain any electromagnetic interference the 3 stranded wires could pick up.

[@BasinMotorsports]

@@2thebestsport839 Yes, that is correct.

[@merkur360]

Will this kit work on xr4ti?

[@BasinMotorsports]

I believe it will. It uses a similar TFI module arrangement.

[@steveratcliff8528]

Will it work on a 2.9.

[@BasinMotorsports]

If it has a similar TFI module, it should work.